Belay device for a climbing rope

Abstract

Belay device for a climbing rope with a basic body GK, which has a top OS and a bottom US, with a narrow, elongated, continuous rope slot SS, which serves to accommodate a loop of the climbing rope KS, in the event of a load on the climbing rope KS, a carabiner hook KH attached to the loop is pressed against the underside US of the base body GK. wherein the two ends of the rope slot SS are each designed as a transverse stop Q1, Q2 for the climbing rope KS, characterized by that the lower edge UK on the underside US of the base body GK is divided into two sections A1, A2 and that a sliding element SE is provided which is movable along the rope slot SS and a first end position E1 of the sliding element SE is assigned the first section A1 and a second end position E2 of the sliding element SE is assigned the second section A2, wherein the contour of the lower edge UK in the two sections A1 and A2 is designed such that the safety device SG generates a braking effect independent of hand force in the first end position E1 and a braking effect dependent on hand force in the second end position E2.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to a safety device for a climbing rope according to the preamble of claim 1.

[0002] During climbing activities, e.g. sport climbing, alpine climbing, climbing in climbing halls, the climber must be secured against falls.

[0003] Safety is achieved using ropes, carabiners, and various belay devices such as pitons or ice hooks. Often, a second person provides belaying (body belay) who feeds out or takes in the belay rope and, if necessary, brakes the rope in the event of a fall.

[0004] There are two main types of belay devices: manual brakes (EN 15151-2) and brakes with manually assisted locking. With manual brakes, the rope output is not automatically stopped in the event of a fall without the belayer's intervention. These devices only serve to amplify the belayer's hand strength. A wide variety of such manual brakes are available on the market. The simplest of these are also known as tube-style belay devices.

[0005] With manually assisted locking devices, the rope is automatically clamped and thus almost completely blocked when subjected to a sudden load or manual activation. The braking effect is therefore largely independent of the belayer's hand strength. However, these devices do not lock automatically during slow rope passage. The belayer must always maintain a firm grip on the belay rope to ensure sufficient friction is transferred to the braking device in the event of a fall, thus triggering the belay function.

[0006] With hand-force-dependent belay devices, a minimum hand force is always required to hold the device. If the belayer releases the brake rope, the climber cannot be held. With hand-force-independent devices, the amplification of hand force is generated by a clamping mechanism within the belay device. This clamping mechanism can consist of mechanical components of the device, or the carabiner used to attach the device can be used as the mechanical clamping component.

[0007] From DE 35 46 181 C2, a safety device (rope brake element) is known that initiates braking without human intervention in the event of sudden, jerky loads. The achievable braking effect is within a physiologically acceptable range.

[0008] From EP 1 221 327 B1, a belay device for controlled descent on a single or double rope is known. This belay device operates solely based on hand strength.

[0009] From DE 10 2011 101 930 A1 a belay device is known which is suitable for both lead belaying and belaying.

[0010] In principle, a belay device with a hand-force-independent braking function appears safer to use. However, a hand-force-independent mechanism usually requires the rope to be locked. In the event of a fall, the climber's fall energy must be converted as slowly as possible to prevent injuries due to excessive impact force. This can be achieved through rope stretch, rope friction against intermediate anchors or the redirect, acceleration of the belayer, and, most importantly, rope passage through the belay device. In certain situations (for example, when a very heavy person is belaying a very light person), rope passage through the belay device is actually desirable.

[0011] Many devices used for belaying a second person are also frequently used for self-rappelling. As mentioned, a locking function offers definite safety advantages when belaying in certain situations. However, when rappelling, a locking function means that the locking mechanism must be released in order to rappel. Depending on the combination of rope, device, and weight, this can become very strenuous during long rappels.

[0012] US patent 2008 / 0011544A1 discloses a belay device that appears to be designed for two alternative braking functions: one dependent on hand force and one independent of hand force. A loop of the climbing rope is guided through a slot on either the top or bottom of a housing block to attach a carabiner on the opposite side.

[0013] On the underside of the housing block is a slot into which the carabiner is supposed to be pulled in the event of a fall, thereby triggering a braking function independent of hand force. Whether such a belay device is actually suitable for use is highly questionable. It is also highly doubtful whether such a belay device would meet the requirements of the aforementioned standard.

[0014] In the slot of the housing block, the two rope sections run parallel after the loop, causing high abrasion. This makes taking in and paying out the safety rope very difficult and impractical.

[0015] Furthermore, the direction from which the rope loop must be inserted into the belay device differs, which can lead to confusion for inexperienced users. This belay device is also very heavy and bulky. Paying out, taking in, and releasing the rope is almost impossible with this device. The AT 205 720 A1 represents a further advancement in technology.

[0016] The object of the invention is therefore to provide a belay device for a climbing rope that does not have the aforementioned disadvantages, that can be used in a hand-force-dependent as well as in a hand-force-independent method, that is well suited for all functions such as paying out rope, taking in rope and releasing rope, etc., and that is in particular easy and comfortable to handle, and that is easy and inexpensive to manufacture.

[0017] This problem is solved by a belay device with the features of claim 1. The essential idea of ​​the invention is to divide the lower edge on the underside of the base body of the belay device into two sections and to further provide a sliding element that is slidable along the rope slot. The desired braking effect, which is to become effective in the event of a fall, is selected via the two end positions of the sliding element in the rope slot. The two different sections are thereby activated.

[0018] Advantageous further developments of the inventions are specified in the dependent claims.

[0019] The invention is explained below with reference to an embodiment shown in the drawing.

[0020] They show: Fig. 1 Perspective oblique view of a safety device according to the invention Fig. 2. Schematic sectional view of the safety device according to Fig. 1 Fig. 3a and Fig. 3b Belay device in the hand force-independent position Fig. 4a and Fig. 4b Belay device in the hand force-dependent position Fig. 5 Perspective view of the safety device according to the invention from two sides Fig. 6 - 10 different applications of the safety device according to the invention

[0021] In Fig. Figure 1 shows a perspective oblique view of the top surface OS of a belay device SG according to the invention. The belay device SG is a belay device for a double rope belay. The invention is nevertheless suitable for a single rope belay.

[0022] The basic unit GK essentially consists of two side walls SW, two end transverse attachments Q for the climbing ropes, and a central web MS. The space between the central web MS and each of the two side walls forms a rope slot SS for the climbing rope. A retaining clip SB for a carabiner is located on the underside of the basic unit GK.

[0023] A sliding element SE is arranged on the central web MS and is guided in two elongated holes LL provided in the side walls SW. The sliding element SE is shown in a first end position.

[0024] A secondary climbing eyelet (NO) is provided at the lateral end of the base body (GK).

[0025] In Fig. Figure 2 shows a section of a more schematic representation of a safety device SG according to the invention. The sliding element SE is shown in several positions. The two end positions of the sliding element SE are shown with solid lines. Two intermediate positions of the sliding element SE, on the other hand, are shown with dotted lines. The sliding element SE has a cross-section that is essentially triangular, with the base of the triangle approximately aligned with the upper edge OK of the top surface OS of the base body GK. The sliding element SE is guided in the two elongated holes LL.

[0026] According to the invention, the contour of the lower edge UK of the underside US of the base body GK is specially designed. In this illustration, two differently shaped sections A1 and A2 are clearly recognizable.

[0027] In Fig. Figure 5 shows a perspective view of a safety device according to the invention from two sides. The sliding element SE is in the hand force-dependent end position.

[0028] The function of the invention is explained in more detail below using several figures.

[0029] The characters Fig. 3a and Fig. Figure 3b shows the SG safety device in hand-force-independent braking force function. Fig. 3b The redirection points of the climbing rope are schematically highlighted by black circles. The first redirection point U1 is located at the transverse anchor Q1. The gate of the carabiner KH forms a second redirection point UK. Another redirection point U2' is located at the sliding element SE.

[0030] A carabiner (KH) is clipped into a loop of a climbing rope (KS). The carabiner (KH) is connected to the belayer's harness. The belayer's hand correctly grasps the climbing rope (KS) at its free end (brake rope section). Tension on the rope section leading to the belayer (load rope section), as occurs during a belaying fall, automatically presses the carabiner (KH) against the underside (US) of the carabiner body (GK). The climbing rope (KS) is guided between the redirect point (U1) on the transverse anchor (Q1) and the redirect point (UK) on the carabiner (KH), and is increasingly squeezed as the tension increases. This creates a braking effect independent of hand force, arresting a fall of the belayer. The braking effect is independent of the hand force applied to the free end of the climbing rope.

[0031] The characters Fig. 4a and Fig. Figure 4b shows the safety device SG in hand force-dependent braking force mode. The sliding element SE is in end position E2. As in Fig. 3b Here too, the redirection points of the climbing rope are schematically highlighted by black circles. The first redirection point U2 is located at the transverse anchor Q2. The gate of the carabiner KH also forms a second redirection point UK. Another redirection point U1' is located at the sliding element SE.

[0032] Due to tensile stress on the climbing rope section leading to the person being secured, as occurs, for example, during abseiling, the carabiner hook KH is automatically pressed against the underside US of the base body GK.

[0033] The climbing rope (KS) is guided between the redirection point (U2) and the redirection point (UK) at the carabiner (KH), thus undergoing a double redirection. The hand-force-dependent braking effect is based on the double-kink principle. The friction of the climbing rope (KS) at the two redirection points (U2 and UK) amplifies the hand force, allowing the belayer to even arrest a fall. Because the climbing rope (KS) is not pinched, the braking effect is always independent of hand force.

[0034] A significant advantage offered by the inventive safety device is that in both operating variants, hand force-dependent and hand force-independent braking effect, rope retrieval can be carried out without problems.

[0035] Due to the movable central bar (sliding element SE), the safety device SG according to the invention is not much larger and not much heavier than a conventional safety device which is designed for only one braking effect variant.

[0036] With the safety device according to the invention, all requirements – paying out rope, taking in rope, releasing rope – can be easily and conveniently implemented in both application variants.

[0037] The side walls SW are advantageously made of a lightweight metal, e.g., aluminum. The transverse stops Q1 and Q2, which are subject to increased abrasion, as well as the sliding element SE, are made of steel, in particular stainless steel.

[0038] The belay device can be converted from single-rope to double-rope applications without significant design effort. This only requires adding the central bridge MS and widening the transverse attachments Q1 and Q2. The belay device according to the invention is extremely lightweight and suitable for rope diameters from 6.9 mm to 10.5 mm. The belay device according to the invention is suitable for both lead belaying and second belaying.

[0039] For haptic perception, the SE sliding element locks into the corresponding end positions.

[0040] Depending on the application, the safety device according to the invention allows a choice between a static, hand force-independent and a dynamic, hand force-dependent safety function.

[0041] Many devices used for belaying a second person are also frequently used for self-rappelling. As mentioned, a locking function offers certain safety advantages when belaying. However, the locking function is a hindrance when rappelling. To be able to rappel, the locking function must be released. This is easily accomplished with the belay device according to the invention. The belay device according to the invention offers considerable ease of use thanks to its dynamic, hand-force-dependent function.

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