Keratin structure-enhancing agents for oxidative color modification of keratin fibers with a selected acid combination

Abstract

The invention relates to agents for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular of hair, with a keratin structure-improving effect, containing in a cosmetically compatible carrier the combination of succinic acid and citric acid in selected amounts and weight ratios to each other.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to agents for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular hair, with a keratin structure-improving effect, containing in a cosmetically compatible carrier the combination of succinic acid and citric acid in selected amounts and weight ratios to each other, as well as a method for improving the fiber structure of keratin fibers using these color-changing agents and the use of color-changing agents containing the combination of succinic acid and citric acid in selected amounts and weight ratios to each other, for improving the fiber structure of keratin fibers.

[0002] Keratinous fibers, especially hair, are an integral part of the human body and a key component of clothing and home textiles, playing a vital role in everyday life. Treatment with washing, cleaning, styling, and coloring products, as well as exposure to environmental factors such as ozone, salt and chlorinated water, IR, UV, and heat radiation (e.g., from hairdryer), leads to cumulative damage to the fibers over time, thus reducing their quality. For example, both shampooing and styling hair through coloring, bleaching, or perming are processes that affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Consequently, after such treatment, the hair's wet and dry combability, hold, volume, shine, and feel may be unsatisfactory.

[0003] Human hair is treated in a variety of ways today using hair cosmetic preparations. These include cleansing with shampoos, conditioning and regenerating with conditioners and treatments, as well as bleaching, dyeing, and styling with color-changing agents, tints, perming solutions, and other styling products. Products for altering or toning the color of the hair play a particularly important role. Besides bleaching agents, which lighten hair oxidatively by breaking down natural hair pigments, oxidative hair dyeing is of paramount importance in the field of hair color modification.

[0004] For permanent, intense colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation dyes are used. These dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, known as developers and couplers. Under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen, the developers react with each other or with one or more couplers to form the actual dyes. While oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting coloring results, achieving natural-looking colorations usually requires a mixture of several oxidation dye precursors (OFVs); in many cases, direct dyes (DDs) are also used for nuanced coloring.

[0005] Most oxidative dyes have an alkaline pH value to stabilize the dye precursors during storage and to accelerate the reaction during oxidative application; this pH is adjusted with alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia, or inorganic bases.

[0006] The aforementioned oxidation dye precursors (OFVs) and alkalizing agents are typically incorporated into a cosmetically suitable carrier, such as a cream or gel. The carrier ensures homogeneous distribution and sufficient dwell time of the coloring agent on the hair.

[0007] If the oxidative color change consists solely of lightening or bleaching the keratin fibers, bleaching powders are typically used. Bleaching powders are anhydrous, powdered oxidizing agent preparations containing at least one persalt or percarbonate as the oxidizing agent. Bleaching powders usually also contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent as a further essential component, which is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar. The bleaching powders can also be mixed with cosmetic oils to form a paste, known as bleaching pastes. To activate the oxidizing agent, the bleaching powder or paste is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution immediately before application to the keratin fibers. It is also possible to add an alkaline preparation, also known as bleaching cream, to the mixture of bleaching powder or paste and hydrogen peroxide solution.

[0008] Not least due to the significant stress placed on hair by color treatments, especially those involving oxidizing agents, the importance of conditioning products with a sufficiently strong and long-lasting effect is increasing. Such products influence the surface of the keratin fibers and thus certain properties of the hair. For example, following such treatments, the hair's wet and dry combability, hold, and volume can be improved, or the hair can be protected from increased split ends. It has therefore long been standard practice to subject hair to a special after-treatment following an oxidative color treatment. This usually involves treating the hair with specific active ingredients, such as quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, typically in the form of a conditioner.

[0009] Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the manageability, hold, and volume of the hair and reduces split ends. However, the longevity of the effects of such additives is often unsatisfactory, as they only adhere to the surface of the hair. State of the art

[0010] Attempts have been made to address this problem by polymerizing monomeric compounds directly on the hair. For example, according to US 5,362,486, certain urethane oligomers with terminal bisulfite or acrylate groups are applied to the hair and then polymerized, forming polymers that adhere to the hair in situ. This process favorably influences the surface properties of hair, such as volume, shine, hold, combability, as well as resistance to moisture and atmospheric pollutants and to hair color fading. However, this process involves radical polymerization on the hair, meaning the hair must be treated with radical initiators such as benzoyl peroxide, which could be counterproductive for improving the keratin structure.

[0011] Patent application WO 2005 / 115314A1 discloses a process for restructuring keratin fibers, in which the keratin fibers are contacted with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, wherein preferred dicarboxylic acids are selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, and sorbic acid, with succinic acid being particularly preferred. The addition of citric acid is not disclosed.

[0012] Patent application DE 10051774 A1 describes the use of short-chain carboxylic acids with a molecular weight below 750 g / mol in cosmetic products, including dyes, as an active ingredient for restructuring keratin fibers. Succinic acid is explicitly disclosed, while citric acid is not.

[0013] Patent application EP 1174112 A2 discloses hair treatment compositions which, in addition to an organic acid, in particular a dicarboxylic acid or a hydroxycarboxylic acid, contain as further essential components an organic solvent, a cationic surfactant, and a higher alcohol, and which serve to repair pores in hair. Both succinic acid and citric acid are disclosed as suitable acids, but are not among the preferred acids.

[0014] Patent applications FR3132839A1 and US2023210736A1 disclose aqueous hair treatment compositions with a pH of 3-10, which, in addition to a surfactant, contain 0.25 to 10 wt% citric acid. These compositions significantly improve the quality and durability of hair, especially chemically treated hair. Damage to the hair that occurs during or as a result of chemical treatment is repaired, minimized, and / or compensated for, and the keratin fibers of the hair are restructured, strengthened, and / or protected. The presence of succinic acid is optional and is disclosed only in connection with the neutralization of dialkyl omega surfactants.

[0015] Patent application WO 2023076449 A1 discloses aqueous hair treatment products which, for the purpose of improving emulsion stability and the haptic properties of the hair, contain fatty alcohol(s), cation surfactant(s), cation polymer(s), niopolymer(s), and 0.1 to 5 wt% citric acid (salt), and have a pH value in the range of 3 to 6, wherein the cation polymer and niopolymer are present in specific weight ratios to each other. The presence of succinic acid is optional and is disclosed only in connection with the neutralization of dialkyl fatty amine surfactants.

[0016] Patent applications WO 2017085117A1, WO 2017125191 A1, WO 2017207191 A1 and WO 2017207198 A1 disclose agents for oxidative color modification, such as bleaching powders, bleaching pastes and oxidative dyes, which contain a keratin-restructuring active ingredient combination of succinic acid and the basic amino acids arginine or lysine. However, these are relatively expensive raw materials.

[0017] The object of the invention was to provide means for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, which not only compensate for the damage to the keratin caused by the oxidizing agent on the surface, but also repair the internal keratin structure, using raw materials that are as inexpensive as possible compared to the prior art.

[0018] Surprisingly, it was found that a color-modifying agent containing a combination of succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids can be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the color-modifying agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS of 0.400 to 2.500, can increase the melting temperature of keratin fibers and improve their strength. Within the scope of the present invention, it was found that the combination of succinic acid and citric acid within the limits specified above achieved a synergistic effect in the restructuring of keratin fibers that could not be achieved with the individual acids.

[0019] The color-modifying agents, uses, and methods according to the invention strengthen the internal and external structure of keratinous fibers, i.e., they enable the restructuring of keratinous fibers. In the context of the present invention, restructuring refers in particular to fiber strengthening, an increase in tensile strength, and / or a reduction of damage to keratinous fibers caused by the action of harsh chemical oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide and persulfates. Restoring the natural strength plays a crucial role in this process. Restructured fibers can be characterized, for example, by an increased melting point (measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)), increased tensile strength, increased elasticity, and / or increased volume, which can manifest, for instance, as greater fullness in a hairstyle.Furthermore, the keratin fibers may exhibit improved shine, improved feel and / or easier combing.

[0020] According to the invention, keratinous fibers are understood to be fur, wool, feathers, silk, and hair, but especially human hair. Within the scope of the present invention, it is particularly preferred if the cosmetic agents are used to change the color of human hair.

[0021] The term "color change of keratin fibers" encompasses both dyeing with at least one oxidation dye and / or with at least one direct dye, as well as the pure bleaching of keratin fibers by destroying the hair's own pigment, melanin. The agents according to the invention can therefore be dyeing or bleaching agents.

[0022] The problem according to the invention is solved by means, uses and methods according to the patent claims.

[0023] A first object of the present invention is a color-changing agent for keratin fibers, in particular for hair, comprising in a cosmetically compatible carrier a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the colour-changing agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, each converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) wherein no unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide is present.

[0024] According to the invention, preferred color-changing agents for keratin fibers are characterized in that the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid, including any salts of these acids, is 1.2 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.7 to 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.8 to 2.4 wt.%, and most preferably 1.9 to 2.2 wt.%, in each case converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the color-changing agent.

[0025] Further color-changing agents preferred according to the invention for keratin fibers are characterized in that the total amount of succinic acid, including any salts of succinic acid contained, is 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.7 to 1.7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 to 1.6 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 1.3 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case converted to the content of free acid and based on the weight of the color-changing agent.

[0026] Further treatment agents for keratin fibers preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the total amount of citric acid, including any salts of citric acid contained, is 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.3 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.7 to 1.2 wt.%, and more extraordinarily preferably 0.8 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case converted to the content of free acid and based on the weight of the color-changing agent.

[0027] In the color-changing agents preferred according to the invention, the succinic acid is present at least partially in salt form. Succinic acid is a dibasic acid; its pKa S -Values ​​are 4.16 (pK S1 ) and 5.61 (pK S2The extent to which succinic acid is present in the aqueous environment of color-changing agents preferred according to the invention, or in their application mixture with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation in salt form, therefore depends, among other things, on the pH value of the color-changing agent.The at least one salt of succinic acid is selected from the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, zinc, lanthanum, cerium, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, and glucammonium salts, in particular the mono-, di-, and trimethyl-, -ethyl-, and -hydroxyethylammonium salts, furthermore the salts with amino-C1-C6 alkanols, in particular with monoethanolamine, and amino-C1-C6 alkanediols, in particular with 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, 2-aminopropan-1-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (MIPA), and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propan-1,3-diol (TRIS), as well as the salts with alkali-reacting amino acids, such preferably arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, and mixtures thereof. Salts.Particularly preferred salts of succinic acid according to the invention are selected from the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and lanthanum salts, as well as mixtures thereof; most preferably selected from the sodium, potassium, magnesium, and lanthanum salts, as well as mixtures thereof. Disodium succinate is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0028] In further color-modifying agents preferred according to the invention, the citric acid is present at least partially in salt form. Citric acid is a tribasic acid; its pKa is S The values ​​are 3.13 (pK) S1 ), 4.76 (pK S2 ) and 6.4 (pK S3The extent to which citric acid is present in the aqueous environment of color-changing agents preferred according to the invention, or in their application mixture with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation in salt form, therefore depends, among other things, on the pH value of the color-changing agent.The at least one salt of citric acid is selected from the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, zinc, lanthanum, cerium, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, and glucammonium salts, in particular the mono-, di-, and trimethyl-, -ethyl-, and -hydroxyethylammonium salts, furthermore the salts with amino-C1-C6 alkanols, in particular with monoethanolamine, and amino-C1-C6 alkanediols, in particular with 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, 2-aminopropan-1-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (MIPA), and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propan-1,3-diol (TRIS), as well as the salts with alkali-reacting amino acids, such preferably arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, and mixtures thereof. Salts.According to the invention, particularly preferred salts of citric acid are selected from the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and lanthanum salts, as well as mixtures thereof; most preferably selected from the sodium, potassium, magnesium, and lanthanum salts, as well as mixtures thereof. Trisodium citrate is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0029] In summary, preferred color-modifying agents for keratin fibers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one salt of succinic acid and / or citric acid, selected from the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, zinc, lanthanum, cerium, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, and glucammonium salts, in particular the mono-, di-, and trimethyl, -ethyl, and -hydroxyethylammonium salts, furthermore the salts with amino-C1-C6 alkanols, in particular with monoethanolamine, and amino-C1-C6 alkanediols, in particular with 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, 2-aminopropan-1-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (MIPA), and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propan-1,3-diol (TRIS), as well as the salts with alkaline reacting amino acids, such preferably arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, as well as mixtures of these salts, especially preferably selected from the sodium, potassium,Magnesium and lanthanum salts and mixtures thereof. Water content

[0030] Further color-changing agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, 40 to 95 wt.% water, particularly preferably 50 to 90 wt.%, further preferably 60 to 87 wt.%, further preferably 70 to 85 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 75 to 80 wt.% water.

[0031] Further color-changing agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, 0.01 to 40 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 30 wt.%, and particularly 0.1 to 25 wt.% of at least one alcohol. Suitable alcohols are, for example, ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1-hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, or mixtures of these alcohols. Water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred. Ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures of these alcohols are especially preferred.

[0032] Another object of the invention is a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising - separately packaged - i) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetically compatible carrier the following: a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the color-changing agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS to each other of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, in each case converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) wherein no unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide is present, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation comprising 40-96 wt.%, preferably 70-93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80-90 wt.% water, further comprising hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5, preferably 3.0 to 5.5, particularly preferably 3.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0033] Another object of the invention is a method for changing the color of keratinous fibers, wherein the method comprises the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratinous fibers (M1) comprising in a cosmetically compatible carrier the following: a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the colour-changing agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, each converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) wherein no unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide is present, ii) Providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, very preferably 5–18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6–12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 3.0–5.5, particularly preferably 3.5–5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). iii) Mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately thereafter iv) Applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the keratinous fibers and leaving this mixture on the keratinous fibers for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 °C, v) Rinsing the keratin fibers with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) If necessary, apply a post-treatment agent to the keratinous fibers and rinse.

[0034] The application of the ready-to-use mixture of the color-changing agent (M1) and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) according to the invention or preferably according to the invention is carried out directly or immediately after the preparation of the ready-to-use mixture, i.e. within 1 second to 30 minutes, particularly preferably within 10 seconds to 15 minutes after completion of the preparation of the ready-to-use mixture.

[0035] Another object of the invention is a method for improving the fiber structure of keratin fibers, in particular of hair, especially for increasing the melting temperature of the keratin fiber, in particular of hair, as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), in which a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratin fibers, in a cosmetically compatible carrier, comprises the following: a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the colour-changing agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, each converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) wherein no unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide is present, applied to the keratin fibers and rinsed out after an exposure time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably after 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably after 10 to 30 minutes, and most preferably after 15 to 20 minutes.

[0036] With regard to the cosmetic agent M1, the oxidizing agent preparation M2 and other preferred embodiments of the process, what has been said about the cosmetic color-changing agents and the packaging unit applies mutatis mutandis.

[0037] Another object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratin fibers, comprising the following in a cosmetically compatible carrier: a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the colour-changing agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, each converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) containing no unbound dissolved hydrogen peroxide, for improving the fiber structure of keratin fibers, in particular for increasing the melting temperature of the hair as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).

[0038] Regarding further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the cosmetic color-changing agents and the packaging unit applies mutatis mutandis.

[0039] The compositions according to the invention for color-changing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, do not contain unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide. This feature distinguishes the color-changing compositions according to the invention, or the compositions (M1) used in the process according to the invention, from ready-to-use oxidative color-changing compositions that are produced by mixing a color-changing composition according to the invention, or a composition (M1) used according to the invention, with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution. The compositions according to the invention may contain sodium percarbonate, since the hydrogen peroxide contained therein is bound to sodium carbonate.

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetic carrier. In a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic. Within the scope of the present invention, for example, creams, emulsions, gels, or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, or other preparations suitable for application to hair, can be used.

[0041] An aqueous carrier according to the invention contains 30 to 90 wt.%, preferably 50 to 85 wt.%, particularly preferably 60 to 80 wt.% water, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0042] In the context of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are understood to be aqueous compositions containing a C1-C4 alcohol in a total amount of 0.1 to 90 wt.%, preferably 1 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 5 to 60 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent according to the invention, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.

[0043] The composition may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preferably, all water-soluble organic solvents are used, wherein the solvent is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 30 wt.%, preferably 1 to 20 wt.%, and particularly 2 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0044] In other preferred embodiments of the invention, the agents according to the invention are in the form of a powder, in particular as a bleaching powder or as a dyeing powder, or as an anhydrous paste, in particular as an anhydrous bleaching paste, each with a water content of 0 to a maximum of 10 wt.% water, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, based on the weight of the color-changing agent according to the invention.

[0045] Preferred bleaching powders according to the invention contain, in addition to the claimed mixture of succinic acid, citric acid and alkalizing agent in the aforementioned quantities and weight ratios, at least one powdered oxidizing agent selected from at least one persalt - in particular at least one peroxodisulfate salt and / or at least one peroxomonosulfate salt - or at least one percarbonate, wherein all alkalizing agents are preferably contained in such a total quantity that the application mixture with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation has an alkaline pH value, which is preferably in the range of 8 to 12, particularly preferably in the range of 8.5 to 11.5, and most preferably in the range of 9 to 10.5, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0046] Preferred bleaching pastes according to the invention contain, in addition to the claimed mixture of succinic acid, citric acid and alkalizing agent in the aforementioned quantities and weight ratios, at least one powdered oxidizing agent selected from at least one persalt - in particular at least one peroxodisulfate salt and / or at least one peroxomonosulfate salt - or at least one percarbonate, furthermore at least one oil in a total amount of 16 - 60 wt.%, preferably 20 - 50 wt.%, particularly preferably 25 - 45 wt.%, and 0 to 5 wt.%.-% water, wherein all weight specifications refer to the weight of the bleaching paste, wherein all alkalizing agents are preferably contained in such a total quantity that the application mixture with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation has an alkaline pH value, which is preferably in the range of 8 to 12, particularly preferably in the range of 8.5 to 11.5, and most preferably in the range of 9 to 10.5, each measured at 20°C. Alkalizing agent

[0047] As a second essential component b), the color-changing agents (dyeing or bleaching agents) according to the invention further contain at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents which are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0048] To achieve the desired durable coloring or lightening of the keratin fibers, the application mixture of the color-changing agent according to the invention with the acidic aqueous oxidizing agent composition used according to the invention must have a pH value in the range of 6.5 to 11.0, preferably 8 to 10.5, particularly preferably 8.5 to 10, in each case measured at 20°C. At these pH values, the outer keratin fiber layer opens optimally for the breakdown of the hair's own melanin and, if necessary, for the absorption of the oxidation dye precursors, and the desired effect of the peroxide compound unfolds optimally.

[0049] According to the invention, particularly preferred color-changing agents (dyeing or bleaching agents) contain at least one C2-C6 alkanolamine as an alkalizing agent. According to the invention, C2-C6 alkanolamines are understood to be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines with a C2-C6 alkyl core containing at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred C2-C6 alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, and N,N-dimethylethanolamine. Triethanolamine, diethanolamine and triisopropanolamine.Particularly preferred C2-C6 alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, and triethanolamine. Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions contain monoethanolamine (2-aminoethanol-1-ol). Further particularly preferred cosmetic compositions contain a mixture of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol. Preferably, the at least one C2-C6 alkanolamine is present in a total amount of 0.05 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 8 wt.%, and particularly 1.5 to 7 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0050] To achieve the highest possible skin compatibility and to optimize the colorfastness properties of the dyeing agent, monoethanolamine is preferably included in a total amount of 0.5 - 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 - 7 wt.%, further preferably 2 to 6.5 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 2.5 to 5 wt.% - based on the total weight of the dyeing or bleaching agent according to the invention.

[0051] In order to achieve the highest possible skin compatibility, color-changing agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on the weight of the agent, they contain 0 to 1 wt.% ammonium hydroxide, preferably 0 to 0.5 wt.% ammonium hydroxide, and preferably no ammonium hydroxide.

[0052] According to the invention, the color-changing agents are particularly preferred in that they contain, based on the weight of the agent, 0 to 1 wt.% ammonium hydroxide, preferably 0 to 0.5 wt.% ammonium hydroxide, particularly preferably no ammonium hydroxide and monoethanolamine in a total amount of 0.5 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 to 7 wt.%, further preferably 2 to 6.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 2.5 to 5 wt.% - based on the total weight of the dyeing or bleaching agent according to the invention.

[0053] In another, also preferred embodiment, particularly for cream-shaped color-changing agents, ammonia is used in the form of its aqueous solution. Such aqueous ammonia solutions can be 10 to 35 percent solutions (calculated in wt.%; 100 g of aqueous ammonia solution accordingly contains 10 to 35 g of ammonia). Preferably, ammonia is used in the form of a 20 to 30 wt.% solution, and particularly preferably in the form of a 25 wt.% solution.

[0054] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the dyeing or bleaching agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains ammonium hydroxide in an amount of 0.1 to 8 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 7 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 6.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 2 to 5 wt.% - based on the total weight of the dyeing or bleaching agent according to the invention.

[0055] Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents according to the invention, which are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, are selected from alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, sodium silicates, sodium metasilicates, wherein sodium silicates and sodium metasilicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of ≥ 2 are preferred, sodium silicates and sodium metasilicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of 2.5-3.5 are particularly preferred, further selected from alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and (earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates as well as mixtures of these substances.Particularly preferred inorganic alkalizing agents according to the invention, which are solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar, are selected from alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, as well as mixtures thereof, in particular selected from magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, and basic magnesium carbonates, which are also referred to as magnesium hydroxide carbonates. Particularly preferred magnesium hydroxide carbonates according to the invention are selected from those with the formula MgCO3 · Mg(OH)2 · 2 H2O and those with the formula MgCO3 · Mg(OH)2. Magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCO3 · Mg(OH)2 is particularly preferred according to the invention. Depending on the temperature chosen during the manufacturing process, so-called light basic magnesium carbonate or heavy basic magnesium carbonate is obtained. Heavy basic magnesium carbonate has a bulk density in the range of 350–450 g / L (grams per liter).Light basic magnesium carbonate has a bulk density in the range of 80–150 g / l. Light magnesium carbonate is precipitated at approximately 65°C, has smaller particles, and a lower bulk density. Heavy magnesium carbonate is precipitated at approximately 90°C and is more compact, therefore having a higher bulk density.

[0056] According to the invention, it may be particularly preferred that the color-changing agent contains a mixture of heavy basic magnesium carbonate and light basic magnesium carbonate.

[0057] Sodium silicates, as defined in the present invention, are chemical compounds composed of sodium oxide and silicon dioxide, and which can exist in various molar ratios (monosilicate, metasilicate, and polysilicate). An example of a sodium silicate is the sodium salt of orthosilicic acid with the molecular formula Na₄SiO₄, which is also known as sodium orthosilicate.

[0058] Other examples of suitable sodium silicates are disodium metasilicate or sodium metasilicate with the molecular formula Na2SiO3, disodium disilicate with the molecular formula Na2Si2O5 or disodium trisilicate with the molecular formula Na2Si3O7.

[0059] Silicates in amorphous form can be produced by melting silicon dioxide and alkali oxide in molar ratios between 1:1 and 4:1. The resulting solids are dissolved at approximately 150 °C and 5 bar vapor pressure to obtain a solution of the sodium silicates in water; these solutions are known as alkali water glasses. Alkali water glasses are defined as glassy (amorphous) sodium silicates that have solidified from a melt, or their aqueous solutions. These are also called sodium water glasses. Sodium water glasses are also included in the definition of sodium silicates within the scope of this invention.

[0060] The molar composition of water glasses is typically 2 to 4 mol SiO2 to 1 mol alkali oxide (Na2O).

[0061] An example of a preferred sodium silicate is sodium silicate, which is in the form of its aqueous solution, has a Na2O content of 7.5 to 8.8 wt.% and a SiO2 content of 25.0 to 28.5 wt.% and has the CAS number 1344-09-5 (Chemical Abstracts Number).

[0062] Further color-changing agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one sodium silicate in a total amount of 0.1 to 9 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 to 7.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the coloring or bleaching agent according to the invention.

[0063] Furthermore, other alkalizing agents, such as potassium hydroxide (KOH) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH), may be included, usually in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 0.6 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the dyeing or bleaching agent according to the invention.

[0064] Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more further alkalizing agents, which are preferably selected from calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate, as well as from basic amino acids, particularly preferably from L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] To support the restructuring effect of the claimed mixture of succinic acid and citric acid in the aforementioned quantities and weight ratios, it has proven advantageous if the color-changing agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one complexing agent.Particularly preferred complexing agents are selected from EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), EDDS (ethylenediamine disuccinic acid), MGDA (methylglycine diacetic acid), GLDA (glutamate diacetic acid), IDS (iminodisuccinic acid) and phosphonates, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) and / or ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) and / or diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) and - preferably - their sodium salts, particularly preferably selected from disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (Na2-EDTA), trisodium methylglycine diacetate (Na3-MGDA), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (Na4-GLDA) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (Na3-EDDS), as well as mixtures of the aforementioned complexing agents.

[0066] Further oxidative color-changing agents particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, at least one complexing agent is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, and most preferably 1.4 to 1.6 wt.%.

[0067] Further oxidative color-changing agents particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, at least one complexing agent selected from EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), EDDS (ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid), MGDA (methylglycine diacetic acid), GLDA (glutamate diacetic acid), IDS (iminodisuccinic acid) and phosphonates, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) and / or ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) and / or diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) as well as - preferably - their sodium salts, is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.0 wt.%, and most preferably 1.4 to 1.6 wt.%.

[0068] In a preferred embodiment of the hair color-changing agents as dyes, the agents according to the invention contain at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors (OFVs), direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories based on their reactivity: developer components and coupler components. Coupler components do not produce significant coloration on their own during oxidative staining; they always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can react with themselves to form the actual dye.

[0070] The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. However, for substances with amino groups, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, particularly as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, or sulfates.

[0071] Oxidation dye precursors include developer-type and coupler-type oxidation dye precursors.

[0072] Particularly suitable developer-type oxidation dye precursors are selected from at least one compound from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(3-hydroxy-n-propyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethylp-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-Amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethyl-aminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-Hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and its physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred developer components are selected from p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and / or 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Preferred dyes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected from one of the following classes: - 3-Aminophenol (m-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives, - 3-Aminoaniline (m-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives, - 2-Aminoaniline (1,2-Diaminobenzene; o-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives, - 2-Aminophenol (o-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives, - Naphthalene derivatives with at least one hydroxyl group, - Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or their derivatives, - Pyridine derivatives, - Pyrimidine derivatives, - Monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives, - Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives, - Pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, - Morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine, - Quinoxaline derivatives, such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,

[0074] Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred in this embodiment according to the invention.

[0075] Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3-Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyetha-nol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-Bis(2,4-diami-nophenoxy)propan, 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylendioxyanilin, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydro-xyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol), 1,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophenyl)propan, 2,6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]-ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol,2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine, 1-Naphthol, 1,5-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-Hydroxyindole, 6-Hydroxyindole, 7-Hydroxyindole, 4-Hydroxyindolin, 6-Hydroxyindolin, 7-Hydroxyindolin or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds or mixtures of these compounds.

[0076] Particularly preferred are 3-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-naphthol, 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, and 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the aforementioned components. It may be preferable to omit resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and other resorcinol derivatives.

[0077] In a preferred embodiment, the dyes according to the invention contain one or more oxidation dye precursors in a total amount of 0.001 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.7 to 1.8 wt.%, based on the weight of the dye according to the invention or the weight of the composition used according to the invention (M1).

[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the dyes according to the invention contain one or more oxidation dye precursors, selected from at least one developer component and optionally at least one coupler component, in a total amount of 0.001 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.7 to 1.8 wt.%, based on the weight of the dye according to the invention or the weight of the composition used according to the invention (M1).

[0079] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the color-changing agent according to the invention contains at least one direct dye.

[0080] In oxidative hair coloring products, direct dyes are often used to tone down unwanted red tones that can be produced by melanin degradation products, or to tone down certain blonde shades.

[0081] In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuanced appearance, it may also be provided within the scope of the present invention that the cosmetic agents with OFV additionally contain at least one direct dye.

[0082] Direct dyes are dyes that adhere directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.

[0083] Direct-drawing dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic, and nonionic direct-drawing dyes.

[0084] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known as Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and Tetrabromophenol Blue, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0085] Preferred cationic direct-drawing dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, as well as aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferred nonionic direct dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Urei-doethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetra-hydroquinoxaline, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and their salts, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-Chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol and their mixtures.

[0087] Furthermore, naturally occurring dyes can also be used as direct dyes, such as those contained in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, catechu and alkanna root.

[0088] Preferably, the cosmetic product contains at least one direct dye in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, in particular 0.5 to 2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic product or the composition used according to the invention (M1).

[0089] The color-changing agent according to the invention, or the composition (M1) used in the process according to the invention, optionally contains further auxiliary and additive substances. It has proven preferred according to the invention if the color-changing agent according to the invention contains at least one thickening agent. There are no fundamental restrictions regarding these thickening agents. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used. According to the invention, at least one polymeric organic thickening agent is preferably included, preferably in a total amount of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.1 to 1 wt.%, and most preferably in a total amount of 0.2 to 0.7 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent according to the invention or the composition (M1) used according to the invention.

[0090] In a further preferred embodiment, the color-changing agent according to the invention comprises at least one naturally occurring polymeric thickening agent, which may be substituted with C1-C6 alkyl groups, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, carboxyalkyl groups, in particular carboxymethyl groups, and / or quaternary ammonium or C1-C6 alkylammonium groups. According to this embodiment, biosaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular xanthang gums, but also scleroglucan gums, are particularly preferred, as are gums from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan gum, agar-agar, guar gum, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, and cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses.

[0091] Preferred hydroxyalkyl celluloses are, in particular, hydroxyethyl celluloses. Preferred carboxyalkyl celluloses are, in particular, carboxymethyl celluloses.

[0092] Starch and its derivatives are preferred. Starch, which is insoluble in cold water but forms a colloidal solution in boiling water, can be obtained, for example, from potatoes, corn, rice, cassava, sweet potatoes, maranta, cereals, pulses such as peas and beans, bananas, or the pith of certain palm species (e.g., the sago palm). Natural starches derived from plants and / or chemically or physically modified starches can be used according to the invention. Modification can be achieved, for example, by introducing different functional groups to one or more of the hydroxyl groups of the starch. These are usually esters, ethers, or amides of the starch, optionally with substituted C1-C groups. 40-Residues. Corn starch etherified with a 2-hydroxypropyl group is particularly advantageous.

[0093] Particularly preferred color-changing agents according to the invention contain xanthangum, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1 wt.%, extremely preferably 0.2 - 0.7 wt.% xanthangum, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent according to the invention or of the composition used according to the invention (M1).

[0094] Preferably, an emulsifier or a surfactant is added to the color-changing agents or compositions (M1) used in the process according to the invention, wherein surface-active substances are referred to as surfactants or emulsifiers depending on the area of ​​application and are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers. These substances are described in detail below.

[0095] In preparations according to the invention, all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants. These are characterized by a water-soluble anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The molecule may also contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as mono-, di-, and trialanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), - Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula RO(CH2CH2O) x CH2COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - Acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - Acyltaurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - Acylisethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, - linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - linear α-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, - α,-Sulfofaticial methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates of the formula RO(CH2CH2O) x SO3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, - Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, - sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkyl propylene glycol ethers, - Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of formula R preferably for an aliphatic, optionally unsaturated hydrocarbon residue with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R' for hydrogen, a residue (CH2CH2O) y R and x and y independently represent a number from 1 to 10, - sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RC(O)O(alkO) n SO3H, where R represents a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated alkyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, alk represents CH2CH2, CHCH3CH2 and / or CH2CHCH3 and n represents a number from 0.5 to 5, - Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

[0096] Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate; N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate; and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

[0097] Amphoteric surfactants are understood to be surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8-C 24 The alkyl or acyl group in the molecule contains at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and is capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C 12 -C 18-Acylsarcosine. Furthermore, it has proven advantageous if the color-changing agents according to the invention contain additional nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as a hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example, - Addition products of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, but also stearyl, isostearyl and oleyl alcohol, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - Addition products with a methyl or C2-C6 alkyl group to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, such as poly(3)glycerol diisostearate and poly(2)glycerol polyhydroxystearate, - higher alkoxylated, preferably propoxylated and especially ethoxylated, mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as PEG-20 glycerol monolaurate and PEG-20 glycerol monostearate, - Amine oxides, - Hydroxy mixed ethers, - Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, in particular PEG-20 sorbitan monolaurate, - Sugar fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sugar fatty acid esters, - Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, - Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, - Alkyl polyglycosides according to the general formula RO-(Z) x , where R stands for alkyl, Z for sugar, and x for the number of sugar units.

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, the color-changing agents or the compositions used according to the invention (M1) contain at least one anionic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 0.5 to 20 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 15 wt.% and most preferably 3 to 10 wt.%, based on the weight of the color-changing agent or the composition used according to the invention (M1).

[0099] According to the invention, cationic surfactants of the type of quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats, and amidoamines are also preferred. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g., cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Other cationic surfactants usable according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.

[0100] Alkylamidoamines are typically produced by the amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid fractions with dialkylaminoamines and are characterized not only by their good conditioning effect but also by their good biodegradability. Stearamidopropyldimethylamine is a particularly suitable compound from this group of substances according to the invention.

[0101] Quaternary ester compounds, so-called esterquats, are also highly biodegradable. Esterquats are known substances that contain at least one ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. N,N-Bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride is an example of such an esterquat.

[0102] In a further preferred embodiment, the color-changing agents or the compositions used according to the invention (M1) contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 6 wt.% and most preferably 0.5 to 3 wt.%, based on the weight of the color-changing agent or the composition used according to the invention (M1).

[0103] In a preferred embodiment, non-ionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred.

[0104] The selection of these additional ingredients will be made by the specialist according to the desired properties of the product.

[0105] Further color-changing agents preferred according to the invention or compositions preferably used according to the invention (M1) contain at least one oil.

[0106] Preferably, at least one oil is included in a total amount of 0.1 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 - 50 wt.%, and most preferably 3 - 10 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent or the composition used according to the invention (M1).

[0107] Particularly preferred oils according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2 to 30 carbon atoms and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and 2-ethylhexyl stearate. Also preferred are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyloctanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleylerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.

[0108] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from mineral oils, paraffin oils, C 18 -C 30 -Isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosan, polyisobutene and polydecenes, which are known, for example, as Emery ® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ® from Albemarle or Nexbase ® 2004G from Nestle are available, still selected from C8-C 16 -Isoparaffins, in particular isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, as well as 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane.

[0109] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22 alkanols. Benzoic acid C12-C15 alkyl esters, benzoic acid isostearyl esters, ethylhexyl benzoate, and benzoic acid octyldocecyl esters are particularly preferred. Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty alcohols with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated. The branched alcohols are often also referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol.

[0110] Other preferred oils are selected from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g. mixtures of 2-hexyldecanol and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

[0111] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides (= triple esters of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-30 fatty acids. The use of natural oils is particularly preferred, e.g., amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, rosehip oil, wheat germ oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil and the like. Synthetic triglyceride oils, especially capric / caprylic triglycerides, are also preferred, e.g.,...the commercial products Myritol® 318, Myritol® 331 (BASF) or Miglyol® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues as well as glyceryl triisostearin with branched fatty acid residues.

[0112] Further cosmetic oils particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di-(2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

[0113] Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 5 Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C8-22-Alkanole, wie Octanol, Decanol, Decandiol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol und Stearylalkohol, z. B. PPG-2-Myristylether und PPG-3-Myristylether.

[0114] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the deposition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to mono- or polyvalent C3-22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which may optionally be esterified, e.g. PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-9 butyl ether, PPG-10 butanediol, PPG-15 stearyl ether and glycereth-7 diisononanoate.

[0115] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.

[0116] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3-22 -Alkanols, C 3-22 -Alkanediols or C 3-22-Alcantrioles, e.g. dicaprylyl carbonate or the esters according to the teaching of DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.

[0117] Other cosmetic oils that may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 12 -C 22 -Fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C2-C 18 -Alkanols or with multivalent linear or branched C2-C6 alkanols.

[0118] Other cosmetic oils suitable according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils, which include, for example, dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, and decamethyltetrasiloxane. Volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof, such as those contained, for example, in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344, and 345 from Dow Corning, are preferred. Also suitable are volatile linear silicone oils, in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) as well as any two- and three-component mixtures of L2, L3 and / or L4, preferably such mixtures as are found, for example, in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt) and Dow Corning ®200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included. Preferred non-volatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available, for example, under the name Dow Corning. ® 190, Dow Corning ® 200 Fluid with kinematic viscosities (25°C) in the range of 5 - 100 cSt, preferably 5 - 50 cSt or also 5 - 10 cSt, and dimethylpolysiloxane with a kinematic viscosity (25°C) of about 350 cSt.

[0119] According to the invention, it may be extremely preferred to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.

[0120] Further color-changing agents (M1) preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one fat component selected from fat components with a melting point in the range of >25°C to 120°C, preferably selected from paraffin wax, saturated n-alkanes with at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably with 22 to 60 carbon atoms, for example docosane, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), mango butter, cocoa butter and esters of saturated, monovalent C8-C 18 -Alcohols with saturated C 12 -C 18 -Monocarboxylic acids, in particular stearyl laurate, cetearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate and myristyl myristate, esters of a saturated, monovalent C 16 -C 60 -Alkanol and a saturated C8-C 36 -Monocarboxylic acid, especially cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate C 20 -C 40 -Alkyl stearate, candelilla wax, carnauba wax and beeswax, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12 - C 30 -Carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, especially castor wax, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0121] Further color-changing agents (M1) that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one fat component in a total amount of 0.1 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 1 to 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent (M1).

[0122] Oxidative color-changing compositions can also be prepared directly before application from two or more separately packaged compositions. This is particularly advantageous for separating incompatible ingredients to prevent premature reaction. Separation into multi-component systems is especially preferred where incompatibilities of the ingredients are expected or suspected. In these cases, the oxidative color-changing composition is prepared by the consumer directly before application by mixing the components. Within the scope of the present invention, this procedure is particularly preferred for oxidative color-changing agents in which the cosmetic product is initially separate from an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.

[0123] Another object of the invention is a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising - separately packaged - i) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent (M1) for color-changing keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetically compatible carrier the following: a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the colour-changing agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, each converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) wherein no unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide is present, and i) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40-96 wt.%, preferably 70-93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80-90 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5, preferably 3.0 to 5.5, particularly preferably 3.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0124] In the context of the present invention, the term "container" refers to an enclosure in the form of a bottle, tube, can, bag, sachet, or similar enclosure, which may be resealable. There are no limitations on the material used for the enclosure. Preferably, however, the enclosure is made of glass or plastic.

[0125] As already described above, a further object of the invention is a method for changing the color of keratinous fibers, wherein the method comprises the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratinous fibers (M1) comprising in a cosmetically compatible carrier the following: a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the colour-changing agent, characterized in that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, each converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) wherein no unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide is present, ii) Providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, very preferably 5–18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6–12 wt.%, having a pH value in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 3.0–5.5, particularly preferably 3.5–5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). iii) Mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately thereafter iv) Applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the keratinous fibers and leaving this mixture on the keratinous fibers for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 °C, v) Rinsing the keratin fibers with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) If necessary, apply a post-treatment agent to the keratinous fibers and rinse.

[0126] Dyeing processes according to the invention and those preferred according to the invention using the aforementioned color-changing agent or the compositions (M1) and (M2) are characterized in that the composition (M2) is an oxidation composition containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, very preferably 5–18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6–12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 3.0–5.5, particularly preferably 3.5–5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

[0127] According to the invention, the oxidation compositions (M2) that are particularly preferred contain at least one oil in a total amount of 0.1–60 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5–40 wt.%, and most preferably 2–24 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (M2) that is preferred according to the invention. The oils suitable for the oxidation compositions (M2) that are preferred according to the invention are the same oils that are disclosed above as suitable oils for the color-changing agents and compositions (M1) according to the invention.

[0128] In the oxidation compositions (M2) preferably used according to the invention, the fatty components with a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 °C are selected from linear saturated 1-alkanols with 12 - 30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 3 to 6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (M2) used according to the invention.

[0129] Preferably, the at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol with 12 - 30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol as well as from mixtures of these 1-alkanols, particularly preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures.

[0130] According to the invention, oxidation compositions (M2) preferably used further contain, based on their weight, at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol with 12 - 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1 - 8 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 2 - 6 wt.%, wherein at least one 1-alkanol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures is included.

[0131] Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt verwendete Oxidationszusammensetzungen (M2) enthalten mindestens eine Fettkomponente mit einem Schmelzpunkt im Bereich von 23 - 110 °C, die ausgewählt ist aus Estern aus einem gesättigten, einwertigen C 16 -C 60 -Alkanol and a saturated C8-C 36 -Monocarboxylic acid, especially cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C 20 -C 40 -Alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C 12 - C 30-Carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C 14 - C 36 -Carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0132] Further oxidation compositions (M2) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.5–10 wt.%, more preferably 1–5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (M2) used according to the invention. The same surfactants are suitable for the compositions (M2) as those above for the color-changing agents and compositions (M1) used according to the invention.

[0133] It has proven advantageous according to the invention if the weight ratio (M1) : (M2) of the composition (M1) used according to the invention and the oxidizing composition (M2) used according to the invention is in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2. Preferred methods according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, with the color-changing agent or the composition (M1) and the oxidizing composition (M2) according to the invention are therefore characterized by a weight ratio (M1) : (M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2.

[0134] Gemäß einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten die Oxidationsmittelzubereitungen (M2) - jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Oxidationsmittelzubereitung (M2) - - at least one linear saturated alkanol with 12 to 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, in particular 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%, furthermore - at least one ethoxylated non-ionic surfactant, preferably selected from surfactants with the INCI names Ceteth-12, Steareth-12, Ceteareth-12, Ceteeth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteeth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, as well as mixtures of these substances, particularly preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and Ceteareth-30, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, and in particular 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%, as well as - at least one ester of a carboxylic acid with 10 to 20 carbon atoms and a linear or branched alcohol with 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably isopropyl myristate, in a total amount of 3.0 to 25 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 20 wt.%, in particular 8.0 to 15 wt.%.

[0135] The oxidizing agent preparations (M2) further contain at least one acid, preferably selected from dipicolinic acid, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (etidronic acid), dilute mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, pyrophosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, as well as mixtures thereof. The oxidizing agent preparations preferably have a pH value in the range of 2 to 5, particularly from 3 to 4.

[0136] To produce oxidative color-changing compositions from the packaging unit (kit-of-parts), the above-described cosmetic agent for color-changing keratin fibers in container C1 is mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation in container C2 or vice versa.

[0137] Furthermore, it can be particularly advantageous if the packaging unit contains at least one additional hair treatment product in a separate container, especially a conditioning preparation. This conditioning preparation advantageously contains at least one conditioning agent selected from the group of cationic polymers, silicone derivatives, and oils. In addition, the packaging unit may include application aids such as combs, brushes, applicators, or paintbrushes, personal protective equipment, especially disposable gloves, and, where applicable, instructions for use. An applicator is understood to be a wide brush with a pointed tip at the end of its handle, which allows and simplifies the separation of fiber bundles or strands from the total amount of fibers.

[0138] Regarding the cosmetic agent (M1) in container C1 and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in container C2, what has been said about the color-changing agents according to the invention and those preferred according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

[0139] In the context of the present invention, room temperature is understood to mean ambient temperature. According to the invention, this is preferably between 15 and 30°C, particularly preferably between 18 and 25°C, and more preferably between 20 and 22°C. The effect of the dyeing and / or lightening preparation can be enhanced by external heat application, for example, by means of a heat cap. The preferred exposure time of the dyeing and / or lightening preparation to the keratin fiber is 10 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes. After the exposure time has elapsed, the remaining color-changing agent is washed out of the keratin fibers using a cleaning preparation, which preferably contains at least one cationic and / or anionic and / or nonionic surfactant, and / or with water. Optionally, the process is repeated with a further agent.After washing, the keratin fibers are rinsed, if necessary, with a post-treatment agent, such as a conditioning agent, and dried with a towel or a hot air blower. The ready-to-use color-changing mixture is usually applied by hand by the user. Personal protective clothing is preferably worn, in particular suitable disposable protective gloves, such as those made of plastic or latex, and, if necessary, an apron. However, it is also possible to apply the color-changing agents to the keratin fibers using an applicator.

[0140] The following examples are intended to illustrate preferred embodiments of the invention, without limiting it thereto. Examples:

[0141] Unless otherwise stated, all quantities are given as weight percent of active substance. All pH values ​​were determined at 20°C. 1. Proof of efficacy a) Pretreatment

[0142] Strands of hair from Alkinco (0.5g, code 6634, natural dark European hair, A25) were cleaned with a 3% w / w solution of sodium laureth sulfate (2 EO) in deionized water with a pH of 6-7. Subsequently, all strands except those for the untreated reference (hereinafter referred to as "untreated") were bleached with a strong bleaching agent for 45 minutes, then washed, dried, and stored for at least 48 hours before the next treatment. b) Treatment with the test compositions b)i) aqueous acid solution as test composition

[0143] The strands were each immersed in the test solution for 15 minutes at a temperature of 23°C. Afterwards, each strand was rinsed with warm tap water for 20 seconds, blow-dried at 70°C, and left to rest for 16 hours. b)i) Conditioner or shampoo as test composition

[0144] One gram of the product being tested (conditioner or shampoo) was applied to damp hair strands for every gram of hair and thoroughly worked in. After two minutes, the hair strands were rinsed with warm tap water for 20 seconds and finally blow-dried at 70°C for 15 minutes. c) Demonstration of the hair-structuring effect using HP-DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) c) i) Background

[0145] Hair is a keratin material with a complex morphological microstructure. For mechanical or thermal analyses, the structure can be simplified to a two-phase filament-matrix composite in which α-helical filaments are embedded in an amorphous matrix. These two dominant compounds largely determine the mechanical properties of human hair and play a crucial role in the performance and effectiveness of cosmetic hair treatments.

[0146] An indicator of damage to or integrity of both the matrix and the α-helix is ​​the melting temperature of the hair, determined by DSC. The looser (less cross-linked) the matrix or the smaller the crystals of the α-helical phase, the lower the melting temperature of the keratin. c)ii) Test procedures

[0147] To determine the DSC peak temperature, equivalent to the melting point of the keratin fiber, all strands were cut into approximately 1 mm long pieces. Twelve aliquots per product and per reference were placed in the DSC crucibles. After adding 50 µl of deionized water, each crucible was sealed. The measurement was performed in a temperature range of 100–190°C at a heating rate of 10 Kelvin per minute. The keratin melting temperature was determined in °C. c)iii) Results

[0148] The DSC peak temperatures shown in the following tables were determined using DSC analysis (Perkin Elmer DSC 8000). Table 1: Results of the DSC measurements Measurements with conditioner base, adjusted to pH 3.5 Median temperature (°C) ultra-bleached 149,4 Conditioner base without organic acids, adjusted to pH 3.5 with hydrochloric acid (reference) 149,7 2.2% lactobionic acid in conditioner base 150,3 1.0% succinic acid 151,2 2.2% maleic acid in conditioner base 151,6 2.2% citric acid in conditioner base 151,9 2.2% lactic acid in conditioner base 152,0 2.2% malic acid in conditioner base 153,4 2.2% succinic acid in conditioner base 154,2 1.2% succinic acid, 0.5% malic acid, and 0.5% citric acid 154,6 untreated 154,7 0.7% succinic acid and 1.5% citric acid in conditioner base (pH 3.5) 154,7 0.73% succinic acid, 0.73% malic acid, and 0.73% citric acid 155,0 1.2% succinic acid and 0.7% malic acid 155,3 1.3% succinic acid and 0.9% citric acid in conditioner base (pH 3.5) 155,7 3.2% succinic acid 156,3 1.5% succinic acid and 0.7% citric acid 156,3 1.0% succinic acid and 1.2% citric acid in conditioner base (pH 3.5) 156,6 Results:

[0149] Hair strands damaged by ultra-bleaching have the lowest melting point. All acids, including hydrochloric acid, cause at least a slight increase in the melting point. This means that all acids improve the keratin structure of the damaged strands. However, only with the inventive mixtures of succinic acid and citric acid is at least the melting point of undamaged hair achieved. The mixtures of succinic acid and citric acid achieve higher keratin melting points than the individual acids at the same concentration; that is, there is a synergistic enhancement of the effect. The melting point achieved with 3.2 wt% succinic acid can also be achieved with mixtures of succinic acid and citric acid whose total acid concentration is significantly lower at 2.2 wt%. This also demonstrates the surprising synergistic effect. Table 2: Results of the DSC measurements Median temperature (°C) untreated 155,3 ultra-bleached 151,3 1.5% succinic acid and 0.7% citric acid in aqueous solution (adjusted to pH 3.5 with NaOH) 164,2 1.1% succinic acid and 1.1% citric acid in aqueous solution (adjusted to pH 3.5 with NaOH) 164,1 0.7% succinic acid and 1.5% citric acid in aqueous solution (adjusted to pH 3.5 with NaOH) 163,6

[0150] The series of measurements shown in Table 2 demonstrates that all tested aliphatic organic acid mixtures in aqueous solution caused an extraordinary increase in the melting temperature compared to both damaged and untreated hair. This proves the absolute strengthening of the undamaged keratin structure of the hair by the acid mixtures according to the invention. Table 3: Results of the DSC measurements Shampoo base, adjusted to pH 4.5 Median temperature (°C) untreated 154,1 ultra-bleached 149,6 Shampoo base without organic acids, adjusted to pH 4.5 with hydrochloric acid (reference) 150,3 2.2% citric acid 151,3 2.2% succinic acid 153,5 1.5% succinic acid and 0.7% citric acid 154,4 1.3% succinic acid and 0.9% citric acid 155,7 1.0% succinic acid and 1.2% citric acid 154,1 0.7% succinic acid and 1.5% citric acid 154,1

[0151] The measurement series shown in Table 3 demonstrates that all tested aliphatic organic acids in the shampoo base resulted in a significant increase in the melting temperature compared to hair damaged by ultra-bleaching. All tested organic acids thus exhibited a repair effect. The mixtures of succinic and citric acids achieved higher keratin melting temperatures than the individual acids at the same concentration, indicating a synergistic enhancement of the effect and increased structural improvement of the keratin fibers.

[0152] In particular, a synergistic effect of succinic acid and citric acid is evident, as the succinic acid / citric acid mixtures with a total acid content of 2.2 wt.% achieve higher melting temperatures than 2.2 wt.% succinic acid as a single substance or 2.2 wt.% citric acid as a single substance. Table 4: Composition of the tested conditioner base (amounts in wt% active substance) Cetearyl alcohol 5,50 Isopropyl myristate 1,80 Cetrimonium chloride 0,40 Cetyl palmitate 0,70 Ceteareth-20 0,50 Phenoxyethanol 0,30 Sodium methylparaben 0,30 NaOH approx. 0.30 (ad pH 3.5) succinic acid Test concentration 1 Citric acid Test concentration 2 Water ad 100,00 Table 5: Composition of the tested shampoo base (amounts in wt% active substance) Sodium laureth sulfate (2 EO) 11,00 Sodium chloride 2,70 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2,00 Dimethicone (50 cSt) 0,90 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 1,20 Laureth-4 0,30 Amodimethicone 0,20 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0,40 perfume 0,40 Sodium benzoate 0,80 Ethylene glycol distearate 0,30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax) 0,30 NaOH approx. 0.30 (ad pH 4.5) succinic acid Test concentration 1 Citric acid Test concentration 2 Water ad 100,00 Inventive means for changing the color of keratinous fibers (oil-in-water emulsions, all quantities in wt.%).

[0153] To prepare the coloring creams according to the invention as shown in Table 6-1, the fat base was melted together at 80°C and dispersed with a portion of the water. The remaining ingredients were then incorporated sequentially while stirring. The mixture was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred while cold. Table 6-1: Dyes according to the invention ingredient E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 Xanthan gum 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 Octyldodecanol 2,30 2,30 2,30 2,30 2,30 2,30 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 1,40 1,40 1,40 1,40 1,40 1,40 Cetearyl alcohol 16,50 16,50 16,50 16,50 16,50 16,50 Glyceryl stearate 5,16 5,16 5,16 5,16 5,16 5,16 Potassium stearate 0,42 0,42 0,42 0,42 0,42 0,42 Glycerin 2,40 2,40 2,40 2,40 2,40 2,40 Sodium chloride 0,14 0,14 0,14 0,14 0,14 0,14 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0,76 0,76 0,76 0,76 0,76 0,76 Monoethanolamine 4,60 4,60 4,60 4,60 4,60 4,60 2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 Sodium sulfite 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 Caramel 0,08 0,08 0,08 0,08 0,08 0,08 Ascorbic acid 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 Grape seed oil 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 succinic acid 1,50 1,30 1,00 0,70 1,00 1,00 Citric acid 0,70 0,90 1,20 1,50 1,20 1,20 Hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate - - 1,55 - - - 1-Hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate - 0,78 0,45 0,46 - - Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate 1,92 - - 0,67 - - 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine - 1,80 - - 0,53 0,14 Resorcin 0,69 - - - - - m-Aminophenol 0,25 0,36 0,0021 0,47 0,10 0,01 2-Amino-4-hydroxyethyl aminoanisole sulfate 0,04 - - - - - 1-Naphthol - 1,03 - - - - 2,7-Naphthalenediol - - 0,14 - - - 5-Amino-2-methylphenol - - 0,26 0,08 - 0,01 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol2HCl - - - - - 0,002 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline - 1,01 1,01 0,10 0,57 0,17 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Table 6-2: Oxidizing agent preparation O1 for the coloring creams according to the invention from Table 6-1 (all amounts in wt.%) raw material O1 Disodium pyrophosphate 0,1 Dipicolic acid 0,1 Potassium hydroxide 50% 0,3 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid 60% 0,4 C 16-18 -Fatty alcohol sulfate 0,3 PEG-40 Castor Oil 1,0 Cetearyl Alcohol 4,0 Ceteareth-20 1 Isopropyl myristate 10 50% hydrogen peroxide 11 Fully demineralized water ad 100

[0154] Each of the coloring creams from Table 6-1 was mixed with the hydrogen peroxide-containing oil-in-water emulsion according to Table 6-2 in a weight ratio of 1:1, applied to strands of hair and rinsed off with water after a 30-minute exposure time. Table 7-1: Bleaching powders according to the invention (all quantities in wt.%) BP 1 BP 2 BP 3 BP 4 BP 5 basic magnesium carbonate heavy (400 g / l) 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 9,0 Sodium hexametaphosphate 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 hydrophilic pyrogenic silica 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 Potassium persulfate 32,0 32,0 32,0 32,0 32,0 Ammonium persulfate (with 0.5 wt% silica) 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 Ultramarine blue pigment 0,15 0,15 0,15 0,15 0,15 perfume 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 0,6 Liquid paraffin 4,5 4,5 4,5 4,5 4,5 Hydrous sodium silicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of 2.65 (Britesil C 265 from Akzo) 36,0 36,0 36,0 36,0 36,0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0,35 0,35 0,35 0,35 0,35 Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 succinic acid 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 succinic acid 1,5 1,3 1,0 0,7 1,0 Citric acid 0,7 0,9 1,2 1,5 1,2 Tetrasodium iminodisuccinate (Na4-IDS) 1,6 - - - - Trisodium methyl glycine diacetate(Na3-MGDA) - 1,6 - - - Sodium gluconate - 1,6 - - Tetrasodium glutamate iacetate(Na4-GLDA) - - - 1,6 - Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (Na3-EDDS) - - - - 1,6 100,0 100,0 100,0 100,0 100,0 Table 7-2: Oxidizing agent-containing developer for the bleaching powders from Table 7-1 ingredient Weight (wt.%) Sodium benzoate 0,04 Dipicolinic acid (2,6-dicarboxypyridine) 0,10 Disodium pyrophosphate 0,10 Potassium hydroxide 0,12 Etidronic acid 0,15 paraffin oil 17,00 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0,36 Cetearyl alcohol 3,50 PEG-40 Castor Oil 0,70 hydrogen peroxide 9,00 Water ad 100,00

[0155] Each of the bleaching powders from Table 7-1 was mixed with the hydrogen peroxide-containing oil-in-water emulsion according to Table 7-2 in a weight ratio of 1:1, applied to strands of hair and rinsed with water after a 30-minute exposure time. QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

[0000] This list of documents cited by the applicant was automatically generated and is included solely for the reader's convenience. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA accepts no liability for any errors or omissions. Cited patent literature

[0000] US 5 362 486

[0010] WO 2005 / 115314A1

[0011] DE 10051774 A1

[0012] EP 1174112 A2

[0013] FR 3132839A1

[0014] US 2023210736A1

[0014] WO 2023076449 A1

[0015] WO 2017085117A1

[0016] WO 2017125191 A1

[0016] WO 2017207191 A1

[0016] WO 2017207198 A1

[0016] DE 19756454 A1

[0116]

Claims

[1] Cosmetic agent for changing the color of keratin fibers, comprising a cosmetically compatible carrier a) Succinic acid and citric acid, wherein each of these acids may be present independently in salt form and wherein the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid is 1 to 5 wt.%, converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the colour-changing agent, characterized by , that succinic acid (BS) and citric acid (CS) are present in a weight ratio BS / CS to each other of 0.400 to 2.500, preferably 0.70 to 2.20, particularly preferably 0.80 to 1.60, each converted to the free acids, furthermore b) at least one alkalizing agent selected from C2-C6 alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide and inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, and mixtures thereof, c) optionally at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, d) wherein no unbound, dissolved hydrogen peroxide is present. [2] Colour changing agent according to claim 1, characterized by , that the total amount of succinic acid and citric acid, including any salts of these acids that may be present, is 1.2 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.7 to 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.8 to 2.4 wt.%, and most preferably 1.9 to 2.2 wt.%, in each case converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the color-changing agent. [3] Colour-changing agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized by, that the total amount of succinic acid, including any salts of succinic acid that may be present, is 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.7 to 1.7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 to 1.6 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 1.3 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the color-changing agent. [4] Colour-changing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by , that the total amount of citric acid, including any salts of citric acid that may be present, is 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.3 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.7 to 1.2 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 0.8 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case converted to the free acid content and based on the weight of the color-changing agent. [5] Colour-changing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by , that it contains at least one salt of succinic acid and / or citric acid selected from the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, zinc, lanthanum, cerium, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethylammonium salts, furthermore the salts with amino-C1-C6 alkanols, in particular with monoethanolamine, and amino-C1-C6 alkanediols, in particular with 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, 2-aminopropan-1-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (MIPA) and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propan-1,3-diol (TRIS), as well as the salts with alkali-reacting amino acids, such preferably arginine, Lysine, ornithine and histidine, and mixtures of these salts, especially preferably selected from the sodium, potassium, magnesium and lanthanum salts and mixtures thereof. [6] Colour-changing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by , that the at least one inorganic alkalizing agent, solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, is selected from alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, sodium silicates, sodium metasilicates, wherein sodium silicates and sodium metasilicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of ≥ 2 are preferred, sodium silicates and sodium metasilicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of 2.5-3.5 are particularly preferred, further selected from alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and (earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances. [7] Colour-changing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized bythat the alkalizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine, which is preferably contained in an amount of 0.5 - 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 - 7 wt.%, further preferably 2 to 6.5 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 2.5 to 5 wt.% - based on the total weight of the dyeing or bleaching agent according to the invention. [8] Colour-changing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized by that it contains 0 to 1 wt.% ammonium hydroxide, preferably 0 to 0.5 wt.% ammonium hydroxide, particularly preferably no ammonium hydroxide, in each case based on the weight of the agent. [9] Colour-changing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by, that at least one complexing agent selected from EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), EDDS (ethylenediamine disuccinic acid), MGDA (methylglycine diacetic acid), GLDA (glutamate diacetic acid), IDS (iminodisuccinic acid) and phosphonates, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) and / or ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) and / or diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) and - preferably - their sodium salts, particularly preferably selected from disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (Na2-EDTA), trisodium methylglycine diacetate (Na3-MGDA), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (Na4-GLDA) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (Na3-EDDS), as well as mixtures of the aforementioned complexing agents. [10] Colour-changing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by that it contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor. [11] Colour-changing agent according to claim 10, characterized by, that the at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor is selected from at least one compound from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(3-hydroxy-n-propyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydro-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-Amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-Hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof and / or the at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene (= 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole), 1,3-bis(2,4-di-aminophenyl)propane, 2,6-bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzene, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)-amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)-ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol,3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methyl-phenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-Hydroxyindole, 6-Hydroxyindole, 7-Hydroxyindole, 4-Hydroxyindoline, 6-Hydroxyindoline, 7-Hydroxyindoline or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds or mixtures of these compounds. [12] Kit-of-parts packaging unit comprising - separately packaged - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 11, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation comprising 40-96 wt.%, preferably 70-93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80-90 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5, preferably 3.0 to 5.5, particularly preferably 3.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). [13] Method for changing the color of keratinous fibers, the method comprising the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratin fibers (M1) according to any one of claims 1 to 11, ii) Providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, very preferably 5–18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6–12 wt.%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 3.0–5.5, particularly preferably 3.5–5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values ​​refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), iii) Mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately thereafter iv) Applying the mixture obtained in step c) to the keratinous fibers and leaving this mixture on the keratinous fibers for a period of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 °C, v) Rinsing the keratin fibers with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) If necessary, apply a post-treatment agent to the keratinous fibers and rinse. [14] Method for improving the fiber structure of keratin fibers, in particular of hair, in particular for increasing the melting temperature of the keratin fiber, in particular of hair, as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), in which a color-changing agent according to one of claims 1 to 11 is applied to the keratin fibers and rinsed out of the keratin fibers after an exposure time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably after 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably after 10 to 30 minutes, and most preferably after 15 to 20 minutes. [15] Use of a color-modifying agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for improving the fiber structure of keratin fibers, in particular for increasing the melting temperature of the hair as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).