INCREASING THE STABILITY OF AGENTS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN MATERIAL
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE502020012072
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-04-04
- Filing Date
- 2020-02-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-30
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-02-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing alkoxysilane-based hair dyeing methods face challenges in achieving uniform and rapid polymerization rates, leading to uneven color results or extended application times due to their high reactivity, especially when stored in low-water or anhydrous conditions to prevent hydrolysis.
A method involving two compositions, a low-water silane blend (A) and a water-containing composition (B) with specific aromatic compounds, are mixed immediately before application to adjust the polymerization rate of organic alkoxysilanes, ensuring uniform hair dyeing without prolonging the application time.
The method allows for uniform and rapid dyeing of keratin materials, particularly human hair, by optimizing the polymerization rate of alkoxysilanes, resulting in consistent color coverage across the entire head.
Description
[0001] The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a method for treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, which comprises the application of two compositions (A) and (B) that are mixed together immediately before use. Composition (A) is a low-water preparation containing at least two organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes, and composition (B) comprises water and at least one specific aromatic compound of a specific formula.
[0002] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring experts are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
[0003] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.
[0004] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.
[0005] If the user desires particularly long-lasting color results, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been the only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely eliminated with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative colorants also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair.
[0006] EP 2168633 B1 addresses the problem of creating long-lasting hair colorings using pigments. The document teaches that using a combination of pigment, organic silicon compound, hydrophobic polymer, and a solvent, it is possible to create hair colorings that are particularly resistant to shampooing.
[0007] The organic silicon compounds used in EP 2168633 B1 are reactive compounds from the class of alkoxysilanes. These alkoxysilanes hydrolyze rapidly in the presence of water and form hydrolysis products and / or condensation products, depending on the amounts of alkoxysilane and water used. The influence of the amount of water used in this reaction on the properties of the hydrolysis or condensation product is described, for example, in WO 2013068979 A2.
[0008] DE 102011089060 A1 relates to the use of an active ingredient combination (a) and (b) for improving artificial colorings of color-providing compounds on keratin fibers. (a) is a water-soluble polymer, and (b) is a polar alkoxysilane compound.
[0009] When these alkoxysilanes or their hydrolysis or condensation products are applied to keratin material, a film or coating forms on the keratin material, completely enveloping the keratin material and thus strongly influencing its properties. Possible areas of application include, for example, permanent styling or the permanent modification of keratin fibers. In this process, the keratin fibers are mechanically shaped into the desired form and then fixed in this form by forming the aforementioned coating. Another particularly suitable application is the coloring of keratin material; in this application, the coating or film is created in the presence of a colorant, such as a pigment. The film colored by the pigment remains on the keratin material or keratin fibers and results in surprisingly wash-resistant colorations.
[0010] The major advantage of the alkoxysilane-based dyeing principle is that the high reactivity of this class of compounds enables very rapid coating. This allows extremely good dyeing results to be achieved after very short application periods of just a few minutes. However, alongside these advantages, the high reactivity of alkoxysilanes also presents some disadvantages.
[0011] Due to their high reactivity, organic alkoxysilanes cannot be formulated with large amounts of water, as a large excess of water initiates immediate hydrolysis and subsequent polymerization. The polymerization that occurs when alkoxysilanes are stored in an aqueous medium manifests itself in a thickening or gelling of the aqueous preparation. This causes the preparations to become so highly viscous, gelatinous, or jelly-like that they can no longer be applied evenly to the keratin material. Furthermore, storing alkoxysilanes in the presence of large amounts of water is associated with a loss of reactivity, thus preventing the formation of a resistant coating on the keratin material.
[0012] For these reasons, it is necessary to store the organic alkoxysilanes in an anhydrous or low-water environment and to package the corresponding preparations in a separate container. Due to their high reactivity, alkoxysilanes can react not only with water but also with other cosmetic ingredients. To avoid any undesirable reactions, preparations containing alkoxysilanes therefore preferably contain no other ingredients or only those selected ingredients that have been proven to be chemically inert to the alkoxysilanes. Accordingly, the concentration of alkoxysilanes in the preparation is preferably chosen to be relatively high. Low-water preparations that contain alkoxysilanes in relatively high concentrations can also be referred to as "silane blends."
[0013] For application to the keratin material, the user must now convert this relatively highly concentrated silane blend into a ready-to-use mixture. In this ready-to-use mixture, the concentration of organic alkoxy silanes is reduced, and the application mixture also contains a higher proportion of water (or an alternative ingredient), which triggers the polymerization leading to the coating.
[0014] It has proven to be an extremely great challenge to optimally adapt the polymerization rate, i.e. the speed at which the coating forms on the keratin material, to the application conditions.
[0015] When applied to human hair, for example, too fast a polymerization rate results in the polymerization being completed before all hair sections have been treated. Therefore, too fast a polymerization rate makes a full-head treatment impossible. In the coloring process, too fast a polymerization rate results in an extremely uneven color result, and the hair sections treated last are only poorly colored.
[0016] On the other hand, if the polymerization process is too slow, all areas of the hair can be treated without time pressure, but this increases the application time. If the polymerization process is too slow, the major advantage of this coloring technology—the creation of true-to-life colors within the shortest possible application time—is lost.
[0017] The object of the present application was to find a method for treating keratinous material by means of which the polymerization rate of the organic alkoxysilanes could be adapted to the application conditions, in particular to those prevailing during application to the human head. In other words, a method was sought by which the organic alkoxysilanes remain reactive long enough to enable a full-head treatment without unduly extending the application period.
[0018] Surprisingly, it has been found that this objective can be fully achieved if the keratin material is treated in a process in which two compositions (A) and (B) are applied to the keratin material. The first composition (A) is the previously described low-water silane blend. The second composition (B) is water-containing and also contains at least one specific aromatic compound of the formula (AR-I). During application, both compositions (A) and (B) come into contact with each other, whereby this contact is achieved either by prior mixing of (A) and (B).
[0019] A first subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratinic material, in particular human hair, in which a composition is applied to the keratinic material which was prepared immediately before use by mixing a first composition (A) and a second composition (B), wherein the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of composition (A) - contains (A1) less than 10 wt.-% water and (A2) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their condensation products, and at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, and / or their condensation products, and the second composition (B), contains (B1) water and (B2) one or more aromatic compounds of the formula (AR-I) . where x is an integer from 0 to 3, y is the number 0 or 1, R a is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, R b, Rc independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group, a halogen atom from the group consisting of chlorine, bromine, fluorine or iodine, or a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group.
[0020] It has been shown that the special aromatic compounds (B2) of formula (AR-I) contained in the aqueous composition (B) reduce the polymerization rate of the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A2) upon contact with the composition (A). Surprisingly, the reactivity of the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A2) could thus be optimally adapted to the application conditions prevailing in a full-head hair dyeing process.
[0021] When the two compositions (A) and (B) were used in a dyeing process on keratin material, in particular on human hair, it was possible to produce dyes with a particularly high degree of uniformity. Treatment of keratin material
[0022] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
[0023] Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is most preferably understood to mean human hair.
[0024] Agents for treating keratin material include, for example, agents for coloring keratin material, agents for reshaping or shaping keratin material, in particular keratin fibers, or agents for conditioning or caring for keratin material. The agents produced by the process according to the invention are particularly suitable for coloring keratin material, in particular for coloring keratin fibers, which are particularly preferably human hair.
[0025] The term "coloring agent" is used in the context of this invention for the coloring of keratin material, in particular hair, caused by the use of coloring compounds, such as thermochromic and photochromic dyes, pigments, mica, direct dyes, and / or oxidation dyes. During this coloring, the aforementioned coloring compounds are deposited in a particularly homogeneous and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material or diffuse into the keratin fiber. The film forms in situ by oligomerization or polymerization of the organic alkoxysilane(s), and by the interaction of the color-providing compound and the organic silicon compound and optionally further components, such as a film-forming polymer. Water content (A1) in composition (A)
[0026] The method according to the invention is characterized by the application of a first composition (A) to the keratinic material.
[0027] To ensure sufficiently high storage stability, composition (A) is characterized by being low in water, preferably essentially anhydrous. Therefore, composition (A) contains less than 10 wt.% water, based on the total weight of composition (A).
[0028] At a water content of just under 10 wt. %, compositions (A) are storage-stable over extended periods. However, to further improve storage stability and to ensure sufficiently high reactivity of the organic C1-C6-alkoxysilanes (A2), it has proven particularly preferable to further reduce the water content in composition (A). For this reason, the first composition (A) contains—based on the total weight of composition (A)—preferably 0.01 to 9.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.01 to 8.0 wt. %, even more preferably 0.01 to 6.0 wt. %, and most preferably 0.01 to 4.0 wt. % water (A1).
[0029] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains 0.01 to 9.5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.01 to 6.0 and very particularly preferably 0.01 to 4.0 wt.% of water (A1). Organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes (A2) and / or their condensation products in the composition (A)
[0030] The composition (A) is characterized in that it contains the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A2) and / or their condensation products.
[0031] The organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes are organic, non-polymeric silicon compounds selected from the group of silanes with one silicon atom
[0032] Organic silicon compounds, alternatively also called organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is linked to the silicon atom via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom.
[0033] According to IUPAC rules, the term silane refers to a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen. In organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups.
[0034] A characteristic feature of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes according to the invention is that at least one C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group is directly bonded to a silicon atom. The C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes according to the invention thus comprise at least one structural unit R'R"R‴Si-O-(C 1 -C 6 alkyl), where the radicals R', R", and R‴ represent the three remaining bond valences of the silicon atom.
[0035] The C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group(s) bonded to the silicon atom are highly reactive and are hydrolyzed rapidly in the presence of water. The reaction rate depends, among other things, on the number of hydrolyzable groups per molecule. If the hydrolyzable C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R"R‴Si-O-CH2-CH3. The radicals R', R", and R‴ represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
[0036] Even the addition of small amounts of water initially leads to hydrolysis and then a condensation reaction between the organic alkoxysilanes. For this reason, both the organic alkoxysilanes (A2) and their condensation products can be present in the composition.
[0037] A condensation product is understood to be a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes with elimination of water and / or with elimination of a C 1 -C 6 alkanol.
[0038] The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, whereby the condensation products are in equilibrium with the monomers.
[0039] Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane to condensation product.
[0040] Organic silicon compounds which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane. (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or
[0041] The process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A2) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their condensation products.
[0042] The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are commercially available. (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
[0043] In further dyeing tests, it has also been found to be particularly advantageous if at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A2) from the following group was used in the process according to the invention Methyltrimethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane Ethyltrimethoxysilane Ethyltriethoxysilane n-Hexyltrimethoxysilane (also known as hexyltrimethoxysilane) n-Hexyltriethoxysilane (also known as hexyltriethoxysilane) n-Octyltrimethoxysilane (also known as octyltrimethoxysilane) n-Octyltriethoxysilane (also known as octyltriethoxysilane) n-Dodecyltrimethoxysilane (also referred to as dodecyltrimethoxysilane) and / or n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane (also called dodecyltriethoxysilane).
[0044] The process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A2) which is selected from the group consisting of Methyltrimethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane Ethyltrimethoxysilane Ethyltriethoxysilane Hexyltrimethoxysilane Hexyltriethoxysilane Octyltrimethoxysilane Octyltriethoxysilane Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, and / or their condensation products.
[0045] The corresponding hydrolysis or condensation products are, for example, the following compounds: Hydrolysis of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of the formula (SI) with water (reaction scheme using the example of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane):
[0046] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used: or
[0047] Hydrolysis of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of formula (S-IV) with water (reaction scheme using methyltrimethoxysilane as an example):
[0048] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used: or
[0049] Possible condensation reactions are, for example (shown using the mixture (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane): and / or and / or and / or and / or and / or and / or
[0050] In the above exemplary reaction schemes, the condensation to a dimer is shown, but further condensations to oligomers with several silane atoms are also possible and preferred.
[0051] The composition (A) according to the invention can contain the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A2) in various proportions. These are determined by the person skilled in the art depending on the desired thickness of the silane coating on the keratin material and the amount of keratin material to be treated.
[0052] Particularly storage-stable preparations with very good dyeing results in use could be obtained when the composition (A) - based on its total weight - contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes (A2) and / or the condensation products thereof in a total amount of 30.0 to 85.0 wt.%, preferably 35.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably 40.0 to 75.0 wt.%, even more preferably 45.0 to 70.0 wt.% and most preferably 50.0 to 65.0 wt.%.
[0053] In a further embodiment, a very particularly preferred process is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes (A2) and / or the condensation products thereof in a total amount of 30.0 to 85.0 wt.%, preferably from 35.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably from 40.0 to 75.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 45.0 to 70.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 50.0 to 65.0 wt.%. Other cosmetic ingredients in the composition (A)
[0054] In principle, composition (A) may also contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.
[0055] The cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in composition (A) can be any suitable components to impart further beneficial properties to the product. For example, composition (A) can contain a solvent, a thickening or film-forming polymer, a surface-active compound from the group of nonionic, cationic, anionic, or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, coloring compounds from the group of pigments, direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors, fatty components from the group of C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, perfumes, preservatives, plant extracts, and protein hydrolysates.
[0056] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the product. Regarding further optional components and the amounts used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert.
[0057] As already described above, the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A2) can react not only with water, but also with other cosmetic ingredients. To avoid these undesirable reactions, the preparations (A) with alkoxysilanes therefore preferably contain no other ingredients or only those selected ingredients that have been found to be chemically inert towards the alkoxysilanes. In this context, it has proven particularly preferred to use a cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane in the composition (A).
[0058] In another particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0059] Hexamethyldisiloxane has the CAS number 107-46-0 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Sigma-Aldrich.
[0060] Octamethyltrisiloxane has the CAS number 107-51-7 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
[0061] Decamethyltetrasiloxane has the CAS number 141-62-8 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
[0062] Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane has the CAS No. 541-05-9.
[0063] Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane has the CAS number 556-67-2.
[0064] Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane has the CAS No. 541-02-6.
[0065] The use of hexamethyldisiloxane in composition (A) has proven particularly preferred. Hexamethyldisiloxane is particularly preferably present in composition (A) in amounts of 10.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 15.0 to 45.0 wt.%, more preferably 20.0 to 40.0 wt.%, even more preferably 25.0 to 35.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably 31.0 to 34.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of composition (A).
[0066] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains 10.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 15.0 to 45.0 wt.%, more preferably 20.0 to 40.0 wt.%, even more preferably 25.0 to 35.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 31.0 to 34.0 wt.% of hexamethyldisiloxane. Water content (B1) in composition (B)
[0067] Characteristic of the process according to the invention is the application of a second composition (B) to the keratinic material, in particular to human hair.
[0068] During application to the keratin material, compositions (A) and (B) come into contact. This contact is achieved by prior mixing of the two compositions (A) and (B). Mixing (A) and (B) produces the ready-to-use keratin treatment agent, i.e., the storage-stable or storable silane blend (A) is converted into its reactive form by contact with (B). Mixing compositions (A) and (B) initiates a polymerization reaction originating from the alkoxysilane monomers or alkoxysilane oligomers, which ultimately leads to the formation of the film or coating on the keratin material.
[0069] The more water comes into contact with the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxy silane(s), the more intense the polymerization reaction. For example, if composition (B) contains a large amount of water, the monomeric or oligomeric silane condensates previously present in the low-water composition (A) now polymerize to form polymers of higher or higher molecular weight. The high-molecular-weight silane polymers then form the film on the keratinous material. For this reason, water (B1) is an essential ingredient of composition (B) according to the invention.
[0070] The amount of water in composition (B) can influence the polymerization rate of the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A2) at the time of application. However, to ensure a uniform color result when coloring hair over the entire head, the polymerization rate, i.e., the speed at which the coating forms, should not be too high. For this reason, it has proven particularly preferable to keep the amount of water in composition (B) low.
[0071] Particularly uniform colorations on the entire head could be obtained if the composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains 0.1 to 95.0 wt.%, preferably 20.0 to 95.0 wt.%, more preferably 30.0 to 95.0 wt.%, even more preferably 50.0 to 95.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 70.0 to 95.0 wt.% of water (B1).
[0072] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains 0.1 to 95.0 wt.%, preferably 20.0 to 95.0 wt.%, more preferably 30.0 to 95.0 wt.%, even more preferably 50.0 to 95.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 70.0 to 95.0 wt.% of water (B1). Aromatic compounds of formula (AR-I) in composition (B)
[0073] A further characteristic of the composition (B) is its content of at least one aromatic compound (B2) of the formula (AR-I) where x represents an integer from 0 to 3, y represents the number 0 or 1, R a represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, R b, Rc independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group, a halogen atom from the group consisting of chlorine, bromine, fluorine or iodine or a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group.
[0074] Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of at least one special aromatic of the formula (AR-I) optimizes the reaction rate of the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes so that a uniform coloring on the entire head is possible.
[0075] The aromatics of the formula (AR-I) according to the invention, in particular the preferred and particularly preferred compounds, are either hydrophobic substances with alkyl or alkenyl chain(s), or substances which, in addition to an alkyl chain, also carry one or more hydroxyl groups in their structure.
[0076] Hydrophobic substances can form emulsions in the presence of water, forming micelle systems. Without being bound to this theory, it is assumed that the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes—either in the form of their monomers or, where appropriate, in the form of their condensed oligomers—become embedded in this hydrophobic environment or in the micelle systems, thus changing the polarity of their environment. Due to the hydrophobic nature of the aromatics (B2), the environment of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes is also rendered hydrophobic. It is assumed that the polymerization reaction of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes, which leads to the film or coating, proceeds at a reduced rate in a hydrophobic environment.
[0077] If the aromatics according to the invention are protic substances, they contain at least one hydroxyl group. In this context, it is assumed that the protic aromatics of formula (AR-I) can also react with the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes via their hydroxyl group(s). However, the reaction between protic aromatics (AR-I) and C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes proceeds more slowly than the analogous reaction between water and C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes. In summary, the hydrolysis and / or condensation reaction of the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes is also reduced in this way.
[0078] The substituents Ra, Rb, Rc in the compounds of formula (AR-I) are exemplified below: Examples of a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Preferred examples of a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; the hydroxymethyl group and the 2-hydroxyethyl group are particularly preferred.
[0079] Examples of a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group are the methoxy group, the ethoxy group and the n-propoxy group, with the methoxy group and the ethoxy group being particularly preferred.
[0080] By varying the residues Ra, Rb and Rc as well as x and y, the polarity of the aromatic compound (AR-I) can be adjusted and the polymerization rate of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes can be particularly well adapted to the respective application conditions.
[0081] In the aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), x can be an integer from 0 to 3. In one embodiment, particularly good results were obtained when x is the number 0 or 1.
[0082] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), where x is the number 0 or 1.
[0083] The remainder y can be the integer 0 or 1. In this embodiment, it is furthermore particularly preferred if x stands for the number 0 and y stands for the number 1 or x stands for the number 1 and y stands for the number 0 or x stands for the number 0 and y stands for the number 0.
[0084] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), where x stands for the number 0 and y stands for the number 1 or x stands for the number 1 and y stands for the number 0 or x stands for the number 0 and y stands for the number 0.
[0085] With regard to the adjustment of the reaction rate, particularly good results were also obtained when one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I) were used in the composition (B), in which the radical Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, particularly preferably a hydrogen atom, an n-pentyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-propyl group, an ethyl group or a methyl group.
[0086] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), where R a represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, particularly preferably a hydrogen atom, an n-pentyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-propyl group, an ethyl group or a methyl group.
[0087] Explicitly most preferably, Ra represents a hydrogen atom or an n-pentyl group.
[0088] Furthermore, the radicals Rb and Rc in the aromatic compounds of the formula (AR-I) can independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group, a halogen atom from the group consisting of chlorine, bromine, fluorine or iodine or a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group.
[0089] Very good results were obtained when Rb and Rc independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0090] Particularly good results were obtained when Rb and Rc independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0091] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), where Rb, Rcindependently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, very particularly preferably a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0092] Particularly preferred aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I) can be selected from the list of Thymol (2-isopropyl-5-methyl-phenol) Benzyl alcohol Benzoic acid Benzoic acid methyl ester Benzoic acid ethyl ester Benzoic acid n-propyl ester Isopropyl benzoate Benzoic acid n-butyl ester Benzoic acid n-pentyl ester Benzoic acid n-hexyl ester 2-hydroxybenzoic acid 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester 2-Methoxybenzoic acid 2-Methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 2-Methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester 2-Methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester 3-Methoxybenzoic acid 3-Methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 3-Methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester 3-Methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester 4-Methoxybenzoic acid 4-Methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 4-Methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester 4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester 4-Methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester 4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester 4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester and / or 4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester.
[0093] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I) selected from the list of thymol (2-isopropyl-5-methylphenol), benzyl alcohol, n-pentyl benzoate, methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, n-propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, benzoic acid, methyl benzoate, ethyl benzoate, n-propyl benzoate, isopropyl benzoate, n-butyl benzoate, n-hexyl benzoate, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, methyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, ethyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, n-propyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 2-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester,3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 2-Methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 3-Methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 4-Methoxybenzoic acid, 4-Methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 4-Methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester,4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 4-Methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester and / or 4-Methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester.
[0094] Within the scope of an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I) which are selected from the list of thymol (2-isopropyl-5-methylphenol), benzyl alcohol, n-pentyl benzoate, methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, n-propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate and / or benzoic acid.
[0095] All previously described aromatic compounds (B2) of formula (AR-I) are commercially available from various chemical suppliers such as Aldrich or Fluka.
[0096] By selecting appropriate amounts of aromatic compounds (B2) of formula (AR-I), the rate of film formation initiated by the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes can be significantly influenced. For this reason, it has proven particularly preferable to use one or more aromatic compounds (B2) in very specific quantity ranges.
[0097] It is very particularly preferred if the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I) in a total amount of 0.1 to 35.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 7.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0098] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I) in a total amount of 0.1 to 35.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 7.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%. Other cosmetic ingredients in the composition (B)
[0099] Composition (B) may additionally contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.
[0100] The cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in composition (B) can be any suitable components to impart further beneficial properties to the product. For example, composition (A) can contain a solvent, a thickening or film-forming polymer, a surface-active compound from the group of nonionic, cationic, anionic, or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, coloring compounds from the group of pigments, direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors, fatty components from the group of C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, perfumes, preservatives, plant extracts, and protein hydrolysates.
[0101] If the process according to the invention is a process for coloring keratinic material, the composition (B) can very particularly preferably contain at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0102] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the product. Regarding further optional components and the amounts used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. pH values of the compositions in the process
[0103] Further experiments have shown that the pH values of compositions (A) and / or (B) can influence the hydrolysis or condensation reactions described above that occur during use. It was found that alkaline pH values, in particular, halt the condensation at the oligomer stage. The more acidic the reaction mixture, the more intense the condensation appears to be and the higher the molecular weight of the silane condensates formed during the condensation. For this reason, it is preferred that compositions (A) and / or (B) have a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.5 to 11.0, and most preferably of 9.0 to 11.0.
[0104] The water content of composition (A) is a maximum of 10.0 wt.% and is preferably set even lower. In some embodiments, the water content of composition (B) can also be selected to be low. Particularly in the case of compositions with a very low water content, measuring the pH using the conventional methods known from the prior art (pH measurement using glass electrodes via single-rod measuring chains or using pH indicator paper) can prove difficult. For this reason, the pH values according to the invention are the values obtained after mixing or diluting the preparation in a weight ratio of 1:1 with distilled water.
[0105] The corresponding pH value is measured accordingly after, for example, 50 g of the composition according to the invention have been mixed with 50 g of distilled water.
[0106] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (A) and / or (B) after dilution with distilled water in a weight ratio of 1:1 has a pH of 7.0 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.5 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably of 9.0 to 11.0.
[0107] To adjust this alkaline pH, it may be necessary to add an alkalizing agent and / or acidifying agent to the reaction mixture. The pH values used in the present invention are pH values measured at a temperature of 22°C.
[0108] Ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids can be used as alkalizing agents.
[0109] Alkanolamines can be selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent structure bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
[0110] An amino acid within the meaning of the invention is an organic compound that contains in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
[0111] According to the invention, basic amino acids are understood to be amino acids which have an isoelectric point pl of greater than 7.0.
[0112] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L-configuration.
[0113] The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and / or histidine.
[0114] Inorganic alkalizing agents can also be used. Inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate.
[0115] Very particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0116] In addition to the alkalizing agents described above, those skilled in the art are familiar with common acidifying agents for fine-tuning the pH. Preferred acidifying agents according to the invention are food acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, or tartaric acid, as well as diluted mineral acids. Application of compositions (A) and (B)
[0117] The method according to the invention comprises the application of the two compositions (A) and (B) to the keratinous material. Essential to the method is that the compositions (A) and (B) come into contact with each other on the keratinous material. As already described above, this contact is achieved by prior mixing of (A) and (B).
[0118] The work leading to this invention has shown that the water-containing composition (B) with the aromatic compounds (B2) can have an optimal influence on the low-water silane blend (ie on the composition (A)), especially when the compositions (A) and (B) have been mixed together before use.
[0119] This mixing can be achieved, for example, by stirring or shaking. It is particularly advantageous to package the two compositions (A) and (B) separately in two containers, and then, before use, transfer the entire amount of composition (A) from its container into the container containing the second composition (B).
[0120] The method according to the invention is characterized in that a composition is applied to the keratinic material which was prepared immediately before application by mixing the first composition (A) and the second composition (B).
[0121] The two compositions (A) and (B) can be mixed together in different proportions.
[0122] Composition (A) is particularly preferably used in the form of a relatively highly concentrated, low-water silane blend, which is essentially diluted by mixing with composition (B). For this reason, it is particularly preferred to mix composition (A) with a weight excess of composition (B). For example, 1 part by weight of (A) can be mixed with 20 parts by weight of (B), or 1 part by weight of (A) can be mixed with 10 parts by weight of (B), or 1 part by weight of (A) can be mixed with 5 parts by weight of (B).
[0123] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a composition is applied to the keratinic material which was prepared immediately before application by mixing the first composition (A) and the second composition (B) in a ratio (A) / (B) of 1:5 to 1:20.
[0124] In principle, however, it is also possible to use composition (A) in excess of composition (B). For example, 20 parts by weight of (A) can be mixed with 1 part by weight of (B), or 10 parts by weight of (A) can be mixed with 1 part by weight of (B), or 5 parts by weight of (A) can be mixed with 1 part by weight of (B).
[0125] Within the scope of one embodiment, only the two compositions (A) and (B) can be used. Particularly when using the method according to the invention for coloring keratin material, it may also be particularly preferred if not only the two compositions (A) and (B) but also at least a third composition (C) are applied to the keratin material.
[0126] In a process for coloring keratinic material, the third composition (C ) may, for example, be a composition containing at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0127] Within the scope of a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is particularly preferred in which the keratinic material is applied a third composition (C) which contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0128] When using the three compositions (A), (B) and (C), various embodiments are according to the invention.
[0129] In one embodiment, it is particularly preferred to prepare a mixture of the three compositions (A), (B) and (C) before use and then to apply this mixture to the keratin material.
[0130] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a composition is applied to the keratinic material which was obtained immediately before application by mixing the first composition (A) with the second composition (B) and a third composition (C), wherein the third composition (C) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0131] When coloring the keratin material, it may also be particularly preferable to prepare a mixture immediately before application by mixing the first composition (A) and the second composition (B) and to apply this mixture of (A) and (B) to the keratin material. The third composition (C) containing the coloring compounds can then be applied to the keratin material.
[0132] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a composition is applied to the keratinic material which was obtained immediately before use by mixing the first composition (A) with the second composition (B), and subsequently the composition (C) is applied to the keratinic material.
[0133] In other words, a particularly preferred method according to the invention is characterized in that, in a first step, a composition is applied to the keratinic material which was prepared immediately before use by mixing the first composition (A) and the second composition (B), and, in a second step, the third composition (C) is applied to the keratinic material.
[0134] In addition to compositions (A) and (B)—or (A), (B), and (C)—a fourth composition (D) can also be applied to the keratin material in the process according to the invention. The fourth composition (D) is particularly preferably applied in a coloring process to further seal the previously obtained colorations. For this sealing, composition (D) can, for example, contain at least one film-forming polymer.
[0135] In other words, a method according to the invention is particularly preferred in which the keratin material is applied a fourth composition (D) containing at least one film-forming polymer. Color-giving compounds
[0136] When the agents produced by the process according to the invention are used in a dyeing process, one or more coloring compounds can be used.
[0137] In particular, preparation (B) and / or the optionally containing preparation (C) may additionally contain at least one color-providing compound.
[0138] The coloring compound(s) can preferably be selected from pigments, direct dyes, oxidation dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes, particularly preferably from pigments and / or direct dyes.
[0139] Pigments in the sense of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
[0140] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
[0141] In a preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
[0142] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.
[0143] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).
[0144] Also particularly preferred coloring compounds from the group of pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the group of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
[0145] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) and / or the composition (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
[0146] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
[0147] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (b) at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from mica- or mica-based coloring compounds coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
[0148] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (b) at least one color-providing compound selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).
[0149] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.
[0150] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona ®< are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491(Iron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,
[0151] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona ®< are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide. Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ® are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0152] In a further embodiment, the agent or preparation according to the invention may also contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments
[0153] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.
[0154] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0155] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) and / or the composition (C) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of organic pigments, which is selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360,CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.,
[0156] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.
[0157] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.
[0158] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agents according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the formed polymer film and, on the other hand, avoids a rough feeling in the hair or skin after application of the cosmetic agent. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably from 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably from 10 to 40 µm, in particular from 14 to 30 µm. The average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
[0159] The pigment(s) can be used in an amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the agent or preparation according to the invention.
[0160] The compositions according to the invention can also contain one or more direct dyes as coloring compounds. Direct dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.
[0161] The direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L. Particularly preferably, the direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.5 g / L.
[0162] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and non-ionic direct dyes.
[0163] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or non-ionic direct dye as the coloring compound.
[0164] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) and / or the composition (C) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of anionic, non-ionic, and / or cationic direct dyes.
[0165] Suitable cationic direct dyes are, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76
[0166] Non-ionic direct dyes that can be used include non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Suitable non-ionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "N" and "N" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
[0167] Anionic substantive dyes are also known as acid dyes. Acid dyes are understood to be substantive dyes that contain at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H). Depending on the pH, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO 3 H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO -< , -SO 3 -< before). As the pH decreases, the proportion of protonated forms increases. If substantive dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electroneutrality. Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
[0168] The acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L.
[0169] The alkaline earth metal salts (such as calcium and magnesium salts) and aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct dye.
[0170] A key feature of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, with the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this being typically linked to various chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes, and / or indophenol dyes.
[0171] As particularly suitable acid dyes, for example, one or more compounds can be selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°: C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Covacap Jaune W1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (CI 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1;CI 20170;KATSU201;nosodiumsalt;Brown No.201;RESORCIN BROWN;ACID ORANGE 24;Japan Brown 201;D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (CI14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Rot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.I.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n° C53, CI 45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine,Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet n° 2, C.I. 60730, COLIPA n° C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blau V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, C.I.Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.I.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.I.42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brillantsäuregrün BS, C.I. 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 und / oder D&C Brown 1.
[0172] The water solubility of anionic direct dyes can be determined, for example, as follows: 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir bar is attached. Then, 100 ml of water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If undissolved residues remain, the amount of water is increased—for example, in 10 ml increments. Water is added until the used amount of dye has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated using a larger amount of water.If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 °C, the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.
[0173] Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25°C).
[0174] Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and sulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 °C).
[0175] Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 °C).
[0176] Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is readily soluble in water at 25 °C.
[0177] Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is greater than 7 g / L (25 °C).
[0178] Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high water solubility of more than 20 wt%.
[0179] Acid Red 33 is the diantrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 °C).
[0180] Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose water solubility is stated to be greater than 10 g / L (25 °C).
[0181] Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl]amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20 wt% (25 °C).
[0182] Thermochromic dyes can also be used. Thermochromism refers to the property of a material to change its color reversibly or irreversibly depending on temperature. This can occur by changing the intensity and / or the wavelength maximum.
[0183] Finally, it is also possible to use photochromic dyes. Photochromism refers to the property of a material to change its color reversibly or irreversibly depending on exposure to light, especially UV light. This can occur by changing the intensity and / or the wavelength maximum. Film-forming polymers
[0184] The preparations described above, in particular preparations (B), (C) and (D), very particularly preferably preparation (D), may contain at least one film-forming polymer.
[0185] Polymers are understood to be macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units. The polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers prepared by polymerizing one monomer type or by polymerizing different, structurally different monomer types. If the polymer is prepared by polymerizing one monomer type, it is referred to as a homopolymer. If structurally different monomer types are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.
[0186] The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol, and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
[0187] For the purposes of the invention, a film-forming polymer is understood to be a polymer capable of forming a film on a substrate, for example, on a keratin material or a keratin fiber. The formation of a film can be demonstrated, for example, by observing the keratin material treated with the polymer under a microscope.
[0188] The film-forming polymers can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
[0189] In a first embodiment, it may be preferred to use at least one hydrophobic, film-forming polymer in preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), very particularly in preparation (D).
[0190] A hydrophobic polymer is a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 °C (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%.
[0191] The water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, as follows: 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. The beaker is filled to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added, and the mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stirring is continued for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to high turbidity, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the polymer's solubility is less than 1 wt.%.
[0192] In particular, acrylic acid-type polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers, nitrocellulose polymers, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers and polyisoprenes can be mentioned here.
[0193] Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0194] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) which is selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0195] To achieve the object of the invention, film-forming hydrophobic polymers selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven particularly suitable.
[0196] Other particularly suitable film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinylamides, the esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid with at least one C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, one aryl group or one C 2 -C 10 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0197] Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate; isopentyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate); isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl (meth)acrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate and / or mixtures thereof.
[0198] Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl-(meth)acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide; N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamide.
[0199] Further preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration "Acrylates Copolymers." A suitable commercial product is, for example, Aculyn®< 33 from Rohm & Haas. Also preferred are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, Steareth-20 or Ceteth-20.
[0200] Particularly preferred polymers available on the market are, for example, Aculyne 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyne 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001 ®< (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001 ®< (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus ®< (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol ®< 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000 ®< (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or Soltex OPT distributed by Rohme and Haas (Acrylates / C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer).
[0201] Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkylpyrrole, vinyloxazole, vinylthiazole, vinylpyrimidine, and vinylimidazole.
[0202] Also particularly suitable are the copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, as sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER ®< or LOVOCRYL ®< 47, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamide which are sold under the trade names DERMACRYL ®< LT and DERMACRYL ®< 79 by NATIONAL STARCH.
[0203] Suitable polymers based on olefins include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
[0204] In another embodiment, block copolymers comprising at least one block of styrene or styrene derivatives can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers. These block copolymers can be copolymers containing one or more additional blocks in addition to a styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, or styrene / butadiene. Corresponding polymers are marketed commercially by BASF under the trade name "Luvitol HSB."
[0205] Intense and washfast colorations could also be obtained when preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), very particularly in preparation (D), contained at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
[0206] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), very particularly the preparation (D), contains at least one film-forming polymer which is selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
[0207] In a first embodiment, it may be preferred to use at least one hydrophilic, film-forming polymer in preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), very particularly in preparation (D).
[0208] A hydrophilic polymer is understood to be a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 °C (760 mmHg) of more than 1 wt.%, preferably more than 2 wt.%.
[0209] The water solubility of a film-forming, hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, as follows: 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. The volume is made up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added, and the mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stirring is continued for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. A completely dissolved polymer appears homogeneous microscopically. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to high turbidity, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the polymer's solubility is greater than 1 wt.%.
[0210] Non-ionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
[0211] Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can be selected, for example, from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co)polymers.
[0212] Furthermore, it is particularly preferred to use polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.
[0213] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (c) at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone.
[0214] It is further preferred if the agent according to the invention contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as a film-forming, hydrophilic polymer. Surprisingly, the washfastness of the dyeings obtained with PVP-containing agents (b9) was also very good.
[0215] Particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol ®< K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskole K 90 or Luviskole K 85 from BASF SE.
[0216] Another particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) is the polymer PVP K30, which is marketed by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical). PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone that is highly soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8. The molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approximately 40,000 g / mol.
[0217] Other particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.
[0218] The use of film-forming hydrophilic polymers from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers has also led to particularly good and washfast color results.
[0219] Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers in this context are vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.
[0220] Of the vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymers, a styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer and / or a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer are very particularly preferably used in the cosmetic compositions.
[0221] Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are marketed under the name Luviskol®< VA by BASF SE. A VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer, for example, is marketed under the trade name Aquaflex®< SF-40 by Ashland Inc. A VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer, for example, is marketed under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.
[0222] Other suitable copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone include the copolymers obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one other monomer from the group consisting of N-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol.
[0223] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer which is selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers.
[0224] Another suitable copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name Maltodextrin / VP Copolymer.
[0225] Furthermore, intensively colored keratin material, especially hair, with very good wash fastness could be obtained when a non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer was used as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
[0226] Within the scope of a first embodiment, it may be preferred if the preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), very particularly the preparation (D), contain at least one non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
[0227] For the purposes of the invention, a nonionic polymer is defined as a polymer that, in a protic solvent—such as water—under standard conditions, does not contain structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups that must be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality. Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups but not protonated amines. Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
[0228] The agents are particularly preferred which contain as non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of Polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N,N-di(C 1 to C 4 )-alkylamino-(C 2 to C 4 )-alkylacrylamide.
[0229] If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units contained in the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer contained in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20 to 80 to 80 to 20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40. Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol®< VA 37, Luviskol®< VA 55, Luviskol®< VA 64 and Luviskol®< VA 73 from BASF SE.
[0230] Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.
[0231] Another particularly preferred non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N,N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, which is sold, for example, with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, e.g., under the trade name Styleze®< CC 10 by the company ISP.
[0232] A cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is marketed, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ®< 300 (28-32 wt.% active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) by the company ISP.
[0233] Other suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers are, for example, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as sold under the names Luviquat ®< FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552, vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, as sold with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, for example under the name Aquaflex ®< SF 40.
[0234] Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart®< CC 11 and Luviquat®< PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755, or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.
[0235] Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is particularly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 be used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even more preferred that Polyquaternium-46 be used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.
[0236] Suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers include acrylic acid polymers, which can be used in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form. Corresponding products are marketed commercially, for example, under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by Lubrizol, or under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).
[0237] Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.
[0238] Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of polysaccharides are hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, ethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose.
[0239] Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the acrylamide group include, for example, polymers prepared from monomers of (methyl)acrylamido-C1-C4-alkylsulfonic acid or salts thereof. Such polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.
[0240] Preferred polymers of poly(meth)arylamido-C1-C4-alkylsulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.
[0241] Crosslinked and fully or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names "Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulphonate" or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide".
[0242] Another preferred polymer of this type is the cross-linked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer, which is partially neutralised with ammonia and is sold by Clamant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS.
[0243] In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), very particularly the preparation (D), contains at least one anionic, film-forming polymer.
[0244] In this context, the best results could be obtained when preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), especially preparation (D), contains at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II) where M represents a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH 4 ), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium.
[0245] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the preparation (B), (C) and / or (D), very particularly the preparation (D), contains at least one film-forming polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II) where M represents a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH 4 ), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium.
[0246] When M represents a hydrogen atom, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on an acrylic acid unit.
[0247] If M represents an ammonium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid.
[0248] If M represents a sodium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.
[0249] If M represents a potassium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid.
[0250] When M represents half an equivalent of a magnesium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.
[0251] When M represents half an equivalent of a calcium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.
[0252] The film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the preparations (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention. In this context, it has proven particularly preferred for achieving the object of the invention if the preparation—in each case based on its total weight—contains one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 16.0 wt.%, more preferably 5.0 to 14.5 wt.%, and most preferably 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%.
[0253] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the preparation (B), (C) and / or (D) - based on their respective total weight - contains one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably of 1.0 to 16.0 wt.%, more preferably of 5.0 to 14.5 wt.% and most preferably of 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%. Examples 1. Preparation of the silane blend (composition (A))
[0254] A 10-liter reactor with a heatable / coolable outer shell was charged with 4.67 kg of methyltrimethoxysilane (34.283 mol). 1.33 kg of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (6.008 mol) were then added while stirring. This mixture was stirred at 30 °C. Subsequently, 670 ml of distilled water (37.18 mol) was added dropwise with vigorous stirring, maintaining the reaction mixture at 30 °C with external cooling. After the water addition, stirring was continued for a further 10 minutes. A vacuum of 280 mbar was then applied, and the reaction mixture was heated to 44 °C. Once the reaction mixture reached 44 °C, the ethanol and methanol released during the reaction were distilled off over a period of 190 minutes. During the distillation, the vacuum was reduced to 200 mbar.The distilled alcohols were collected in a cooled receiver. The reaction mixture was then allowed to cool to room temperature. 3.33 kg of hexamethyldisiloxane were then added dropwise to the resulting mixture while stirring. The mixture was stirred for a further 10 minutes. 100 ml of the silane blend was dispensed into a 100 ml bottle with a screw cap and a seal. After filling, the bottles were tightly sealed. The water content was less than 2.0 wt.%. 2. Preparation of composition (B)
[0255] The following compositions were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all values are in wt.%). Composition (B)
[0256] B-V1 comparison B-E1 Invention B-E2 Invention B-E3 Invention Hydroxyethylcellulose 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 Thymol ((2-Isopropyl-5-methyl-phenol) --- 5,0 --- --- Carl Roth GmbH Benzoic acid n-pentyl ester --- --- 5,0 - Sigma-Aldrich n-Pentyl benzoate --- --- --- 5,0 abcr GmbH Product List Water (distilled) to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 3. Preparation of compositions (C) and (D)
[0257] The following compositions were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all values are in wt%). Composition (C)
[0258] % by weight Lavanya Belmont 35,0 Phthalocyanine blue pigment CI 74160 PEG-12 Dimethicone to 100 Composition (D)
[0259] % by weight Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer 40,0 25% solution Water to 100 5. Application
[0260] The ready-to-use composition was prepared by mixing 1.5 g of composition (A), 20.0 g of composition (B), and 1.5 g of composition (C). Compositions (A), (B), and (C) were each shaken for 1 minute. Then, this ready-to-use composition was applied to two strands of hair.
[0261] Three minutes after the end of the shaking, the ready-to-use composition was applied to a first strand (Strand 1), left on for 1 minute, and then rinsed. Ten minutes after the end of the shaking, the ready-to-use composition was applied to a second strand (Strand 2), left on for 1 minute, and then rinsed.
[0262] Subsequently, the composition (D) was applied to each strand of hair, left on for 1 minute and then rinsed with water.
[0263] The two dyed strands were each dried and visually compared under a daylight lamp. Step 1: (A) + (B-V1) + (C) (A) + (B-E1) + (C) (A) + (B-E2) + (C) (A) + (B-E3) + (C) Step 2: (D) (D) (D) (D) Color difference high small amount small amount small amount Color difference = color difference between strand 1 and strand 2
Claims
1. A method for treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, wherein a composition is applied to the keratinous material, which composition was prepared immediately prior to application by mixing a first composition (A) and a second composition (B), wherein - the first composition (A) contains, based on the total weight of composition (A) (A1) less than 10% by weight of water and (A2) at least one organic C1-C6 alkoxy silane selected from the group consisting of - (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane - (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane - (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane - (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane - (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane - (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane - (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, - (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their condensation products, and at least one organic C1-C6-alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of - methyltrimethoxysilane - methyltriethoxysilane - ethyltrimethoxysilane - ethyltriethoxysilane - hexyltrimethoxysilane - hexyltriethoxysilane - octyltrimethoxysilane - octyltriethoxysilane - dodecyltrimethoxysilane, - dodecyltriethoxysilane, and / or their condensation products, and - the second composition (B) contains (B1) water and (B2) one or more aromatic compounds of the formula (AR-I) where x is an integer from 0 to 3, y is the number 0 or 1, Ra is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a hydroxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, Rb, Rc independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group, a halogen atom from the group consisting of chlorine, bromine, fluorine or iodine, or a C1-C6 alkoxy group.
2. Process according to claim 1, characterised in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains 0.01 to 9.5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.01 to 6.0 wt.% and most preferably 0.01 to 4.0 wt.% water (A1).
3. Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterised in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains the organic C1-C6 alkoxysilanes (A2) and / or the condensation products thereof in a total amount of 30.0 to 85.0 wt.%, preferably from 35.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably from 40.0 to 75.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 45.0 to 70.0 wt.% and most preferably from 50.0 to 65.0 wt.%.
4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the first composition (A) contains at least one cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
5. Process according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the first composition (A) contains - based on the total weight of composition (A) - contains 10.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 15.0 to 45.0 wt.%, more preferably 20.0 to 40.0 wt.%, even more preferably 25.0 to 35.0 wt.% and most preferably 31.0 to 34.0 wt.% hexamethyldisiloxane.
6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of composition (B) - contains 0.1 to 95.0 wt.%, preferably 20.0 to 95.0 wt.%, more preferably 30.0 to 95.0 wt.%, even more preferably 50.0 to 95.0 wt.% and most preferably 70.0 to 95.0 wt.% water (B1).
7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), wherein x stands for the number 0 or 1.
8. Process according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), wherein x is the number 0 and y is the number 1, or x is the number 1 and y is the number 0, or x represents the number 0 and y represents the number 0.
9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of the formula (AR-I), wherein Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, more preferably a hydrogen atom, an n-pentyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-propyl group, an ethyl group or a methyl group.
10. Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of formula (AR-I), wherein Rb, Rc independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or a C1-C6 alkyl group, more preferably a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group.
11. Process according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of formula (AR-I) selected from the list comprising thymol (2-isopropyl-5-methylphenol), benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, benzoic acid, benzoic acid methyl ester, benzoic acid ethyl ester, benzoic acid n-propyl ester, benzoic acid isopropyl ester, benzoic acid n-butyl ester, benzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 2-methoxybenzoic acid, 2-methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 2-methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 2-methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 2-methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 2-methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 2-methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 3-methoxybenzoic acid, 3-methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 3-methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 3-methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 3-methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 3-methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 3-methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester, 3-methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 4-methoxybenzoic acid, 4-methoxybenzoic acid methyl ester, 4-methoxybenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-methoxybenzoic acid n-propyl ester, 4-methoxybenzoic acid isopropyl ester, 4-methoxybenzoic acid n-butyl ester, 4-methoxybenzoic acid n-pentyl ester and / or 4-methoxybenzoic acid n-hexyl ester.
12. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterised in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of composition (B) - contains one or more aromatic compounds (B2) of formula (AR-I) in a total amount of 0.1 to 35.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.3 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight and most preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight.
13. Method according to one of claims 1 to 12, in which - a third composition (C) is applied to the keratinous material, which contains at least one colouring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.
14. Process according to claim 13, characterised in that a composition obtained immediately prior to application by mixing the first composition (A) with the second composition (B) and a third composition (C) is applied to the keratinous material.
15. Method according to claim 13, characterised in that, in a first step, a composition is applied to the keratinous material, which was prepared immediately before application by mixing the first composition (A) and the second composition (B), and in a second step, the third composition (C) is applied to the keratinous material.
16. Process according to one of claims 1 to 15, in which the following is applied to the keratinous material - a fourth composition (D) containing at least one film-forming polymer.
17. Method according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterised in that composition (B) and / or composition (C) contains at least one colouring compound from the group of inorganic pigments selected from the group of coloured metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulphides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulphates, bronze pigments and / or coloured pigments based on mica or glimmer, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
18. Method according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterised in that composition (B) and / or composition (C) contains at least one colouring compound from the group of organic pigments selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Colour Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Colour Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Colour Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Colour Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Colour Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
19. Method according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterised in that composition (B) and / or composition (C) contains at least one colouring compound from the group of anionic, non-ionic and / or cationic direct dyes.