PATTERN SET WITH INTEGRATED SEAM ALLOWANCE

Description

[0001] The invention relates to cut pieces with an inherent seam allowance for the production of a sewing product.

[0002] Up to now, pattern pieces for the production of sewn goods (for example, for the production of garments) have corresponding seam allowances of a certain width - this ensures that the cutting line of the pattern piece runs uniformly parallel to the seam line and results in uniform pattern piece sides.

[0003] This uniformity means the sewer has no obvious, self-explanatory guidance from the pattern pieces as to which piece should be sewn to which other piece, and how and where. This information must be gleaned from separate instructions or the pattern template. Sewing instructions are often misleading and difficult to understand, especially for beginners or hobby sewers. This leads to significant time wastage and frustration when making sewing projects. If a seam is sewn incorrectly, the entire garment usually cannot be properly finished, and the seam has to be painstakingly removed. This process often results in damage to the fabric, leading to unnecessary waste and, in some cases, even abandoning the project altogether.

[0004] Besides the challenges of correctly understanding sewing instructions, these often contain unclear instructions such as "sew with slight stretch" (for example, when working with two different types of fabric together or when gathering is desired), which leaves considerable room for interpretation as to how much "slightly stretched" or "strongly stretched" actually means. These nonspecific instructions frequently lead to uneven results on the finished garment, especially for inexperienced sewers.

[0005] In some places, sewing instructions specify that certain points should be marked by small notches in the seam allowance (so-called "notches" or "snips") – for example, where a sleeve meets a shoulder seam. These notches provide the sewer with a point of reference; however, their usefulness is severely limited due to the notches being difficult to distinguish, their poor visibility on the pattern piece, their isolated nature, and their lack of informative value without the accompanying sewing instructions.

[0006] These types of notches are also used in the industrial production of sewn goods. Here, they can mark a variety of points – such as the height at which a hem should be turned up, a point where two seams meet, or the upper or lower center point of a facing and an outer fabric. In industrial production, these notches are usually designed as a simple cut or in a triangular shape, but they can also be, for example, a semicircle or square, or – depending on the pattern-making software used – in several other shapes.These notches used in industrial manufacturing also always require additional instructions, as they are used in very different ways and their interpretation is not self-explanatory: A notch used in industrial manufacturing can therefore either meet another notch or a seam line, simply mark a center point, or indicate that a fold should be created at that point. Which of these applies depends on the person who created the template and how they use the notches.

[0007] In the realm of hobby sewing, paper patterns are most commonly used. These are then transferred to tracing paper and laid out on the fabric for cutting. Sometimes, the paper pattern itself is cut out and placed on the fabric. Patterns typically include information about the grainline. Which pattern pieces need to be cut with or without seam allowances or hem allowances on which sides, and what the required seam or hem allowance width should be on each pattern piece and side, is usually found in a separate sewing instruction booklet. Depending on the amount of information to consider, errors can frequently occur during cutting.When a hobby sewer cuts out, for example, a back piece for a child's dress, the back piece is usually laid out at half its width on a double layer of fabric folded in half and then cut. The neckline may need to be cut without seam allowance because it will later be finished with bias tape, while the shoulders, sides, and armholes are cut with, for example, a 1.5 cm seam allowance, and the bottom hem with a 5 cm hem allowance. Especially for sewing beginners, taking three different seam allowances into account is a common source of error.Some pattern templates therefore already include seam and hem allowances, which, however, introduces another potential for error: for example, the sewer (out of habit or lack of concentration) might add an additional seam allowance when cutting out the pattern pieces, in addition to the seam allowance already included in the pattern template, resulting in the shape of the pattern pieces no longer being correct.

[0008] To improve clarity in the pattern template regarding which side of the pattern piece should be sewn to which other side during later processing, a design for the pattern template (i.e., the representation of the pattern piece shapes on paper) was patented in 1939 under numbers CH 203681 A and DE 695119 C. This patent protected the use of different hatching for the seam allowances that would later be sewn together. The protected design made it easier for the sewer to identify which seam allowances corresponded to the respective pattern piece edges or seam allowances of the pattern pieces cut from the corresponding fabric and to correctly join the pieces together.Another difficulty with this visualization in the pattern template is assumed to be the fact that it was and is often uncommon to include the seam allowance in the pattern template, and thus an additional seam allowance may be accidentally added by the sewer, which distorts the shape of the pattern pieces.

[0009] Over the years, a number of further inventions have been published that dealt with simplifying the assembly of fabric pieces, the transfer of patterns to the fabric, and the sewing of the fabric pieces into a garment using instructions: GB2222395 A discloses a set with at least two pattern pieces for producing a sewn garment, wherein the pattern pieces have an inherent seam allowance in which notches are arranged. The patterns provide assistance in aligning the pattern pieces. Instructions provide further guidance for sewing them together.

[0010] US2007261260 A1 discloses a sewing aid for marking fabric with a marking device. It discloses a tool for pattern making with which knitted fabrics can be marked and notched at the appropriate locations without fraying the knitted fabric. Such a device is suitable for various seam allowance sizes and allows for the differentiation of notches for front and back fabric pieces.

[0011] US3033357 A discloses a set with several pattern pieces in which patterns are printed on one side of the fabric as work and sewing instructions.

[0012] US 3824628 A describes a method for sewing fabric together in which a pattern is applied to a piece of fabric to serve as sewing guides for the construction of seams, darts and the like.

[0013] When sewing, pins are placed across the pattern and fabric at the aforementioned markings and removed again when the sewing process is completed.

[0014] US 2018 / 0 190 149 A1 discloses a code for use in sewing together a garment, wherein the code contains a variety of unique instruction markers required to assemble the individual parts into the desired garment.

[0015] It may be finished with buttonholes or decorative stitching. Likewise, other necessary components such as taffeta lining, zipper, webbing, buttons, costume jewelry, sewing thread, and skirt and jacket hanging loops may also be included in the packaging.

[0016] To further facilitate sewing, it is advisable to mark the seams and darts on the fabric. However, this does not prevent every miscut or incorrect stitching from the outset, as the correct alignment of the fabrics during the sewing process cannot be checked.

[0017] CH 256 223 A describes cutting patterns in which the outlines of the pattern pieces take into account the hem and seam allowances and fastening lines are indicated.

[0018] The attachment lines / seam lines are indicated along their entire length by perforations, and the connection between attachment lines on different pattern pieces is marked by corresponding labels. The pattern attachment lines are perforated to allow for faster and more accurate transfer to the fabric, for example, by powdering.

[0019] US 2004 / 0 153 195 A1 relates generally to the manufacture of clothing and, in particular, to a system and method for producing and testing made-to-measure garments using digital design data. A method is disclosed in which a fitting garment is created from a variety of basic patterns. The basic patterns are then modified and joined according to a customer's body shape and fit and / or style preferences to create a sample garment based on the markings and to generate customer data. Also disclosed is the cutting of material for a made-to-measure garment based on the customer data and the sewing together of the cut material to produce the made-to-measure garment.

[0020] The invention is based on the objective of simplifying and making clearer the correct assembly of a pattern piece set for the production of a sewing product.

[0021] Furthermore, its underlying task is to enable quality assurance already during the production process of a sewing product.

[0022] This problem is solved by a cutting part set according to claim 1, the subordinate claims forming preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0023] The pattern piece set according to the invention comprises pattern pieces with seam allowances inherent in the pattern pieces, which have orientation cutouts or orientation embossing or a mixture of both.

[0024] These orientation cutouts or orientation embossings in the seam allowances are designed in such a way that they provide quickly grasped information about where which cut parts are to be placed on top of each other or joined together in the manufacturing process - namely, only those orientation cutouts or orientation embossings that are perfectly aligned with each other are to be placed on top of each other.

[0025] Orientation cutouts or orientation embossings are, within the meaning of the invention, all those cutouts or embossings in the seam allowance inherent to the pattern piece that are present in at least two seam allowances inherent to the pattern piece in an identical or corresponding form, such that they have at least one corresponding partner.

[0026] Correspondingly, in the context of the invention, orientation cutouts or orientation embossings in the seam allowance inherent in the pattern piece are designed such that whenever the orientation cutouts or orientation embossings align precisely with one another, the pattern pieces or pattern piece edges provided with them are correctly positioned relative to each other in order to create the corresponding sewn product. Conversely, any positioning of pattern pieces or pattern piece edges relative to each other that does not result in a precise alignment of the orientation cutouts or orientation embossings located along the seam line is not correct in terms of the proper assembly of the corresponding sewn product.

[0027] Consequently, this allows the necessary positioning and alignment of the pattern piece edges relative to each other to be determined for the production of the sewn product. Preferably, the (lateral) positioning of the pattern pieces relative to each other can even be unambiguously determined in this way. However, the correct orientation of the contact surfaces of the pattern pieces (e.g., printed side of the fabric on the printed side of the fabric) is not possible solely by cutouts, but only with embossing, adhesive, or other markings that can be assigned to a surface.

[0028] In the context of the invention, "aligning" means that two orientation recesses of identical / corresponding shape and size result in a precisely fitting, at least two-layered recess of the same shape and size by overlapping at least two layers of material - or that two orientation embossings of identical / corresponding shape and size interlock by overlapping at least two layers of material with their convex and concave sides in such a way that, of two identical / corresponding shapes, patterns or markings, the convex side lies on the concave side or vice versa.

[0029] The alignment, as defined by the invention, can also be achieved by creating raised areas on a material – for example, by applying adhesive in corresponding shapes, which then adhere to each other. Applying adhesive in corresponding shapes is a subcategory of orientation embossing.

[0030] In addition to orientation notches or embossing, other shapes, patterns, or markings can be cut or embossed into the seam allowances—for example, starting points of seam lines, seam lines themselves, or points where pattern pieces meet other seams. These additional instruction notches or embossings are characterized by the fact that they are only cut or embossed into the seam allowance of one seam line and do not have a corresponding counterpart. The starting points are particularly important for users, as they define the fabric layer that lies on top during sewing. For example, it might be a rule within pattern piece sets that a starting point is always cut into the top fabric layer. If the sewer cannot find a starting point, the correct fabric layer is not on top, and repositioning is necessary.The starting point makes the correct alignment of the pattern pieces unambiguous - which can be particularly useful for seams with three or more layers of fabric.

[0031] In addition to orientation cutouts or embossings and instruction cutouts or embossings, pattern piece edges can also be designed with specific shapes that provide instructions on how to finish them in the sewing project. For example, a bottom edge of a pattern piece cut (fully or partially) in a wavy shape might indicate that this edge should be folded over to create a 4 cm hem. Similarly, an edge cut (fully or partially) in small zigzag shapes might indicate that it should be finished with bias binding. Furthermore, instruction edges can be cut with, for example, four waves if a hem is to be folded over by four centimeters, and two waves if the hem is to be folded over by only two centimeters.

[0032] These instruction edges are particularly important when a sewer has already processed several pattern piece sets into sewing products in accordance with the invention and has already learned the meanings of the specific shapes of the instruction edges. Of course, information on how to interpret an edge shape can also be obtained from the instructions if needed.

[0033] Orientation cutouts or orientation markings are preferably designed such that each seam section is assigned its own distinct shape of orientation cutout or orientation marking, distinguishable from the shapes of the other seam sections. This principle is applied, according to the invention, to at least one seam section within a pattern piece set for a sewing product; not every seam section of a sewing product necessarily needs to have these orientation cutouts or orientation markings in its seam allowance, as this may not always be practical, for example, if a seam section results automatically from previously correctly placed seams. Additional marking of such a seam section could otherwise make the pattern pieces of a pattern piece set more confusing than it is helpful.

[0034] Orientation cutouts can also greatly simplify the processing of materials that need to be stretched before sewing (such as ribbing). This is achieved by already taking the necessary stretch into account in the corresponding shapes and arrangement of these cutouts or embossings, such that only the correct stretching when joining the corresponding pattern pieces or pattern piece edges creates a precise fit between the corresponding orientation cutouts.

[0035] This creates an intuitive yet highly specific guideline for precisely how much the material needs to be stretched to achieve the desired result. This is relevant, for example, in the production of baby and children's clothing, where cuffs are often placed on sleeves, necklines, or waistbands to optimize the garment's fit. If these cuffs (for example, on the sleeve) are sewn on with too little stretch, the sleeve will constantly slip over the hand when worn. If these cuffs are sewn on with too much stretch, the hand may have difficulty getting through when putting the garment on, and the cuff may pinch the wrist.

[0036] Orientation cutouts or orientation embossings can extend from the edge of the seam allowance into the seam allowance, thus forming the shape of the edge of the seam allowance.

[0037] Orientation cutouts or orientation embossings can also be arranged at a distance from the edge of the cut part.

[0038] According to a preferred embodiment, the orientation recesses or orientation embossings can also be chosen in such a way that they represent numbers or letters, which not only facilitate the correct placement of a seam, but also provide information about the sequence in which the individual work steps are to be carried out.

[0039] Likewise, further coding and combining of orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings is advantageous in such a way that specific forms of orientation cutouts or orientation embossings, for example, not only provide information about the sequence in which the work steps are to be implemented, but also provide information about how a seam is to be sewn.Orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings in the form of numbers can provide information about the sequence of corresponding work steps and can be combined with differently shaped orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings which, due to their specific shape, can convey information about the stitch to be used (e.g., straight stitch or zigzag stitch) and / or the stitch length to be selected (e.g., 2 mm or 4 mm) and / or the width of the seam allowance to be selected - i.e., the distance of the seam line to the outermost point(s) of the cut piece edge - and / or the number of fabric layers to be sewn together.For example, three adjacent triangles cut or embossed next to each other could mean that three layers of material are to be sewn together (for example, when sewing in cuffs), and two adjacent triangles cut or embossed next to each other would mean that two layers of fabric are to be sewn together (for example, when sewing in a sleeve). Additionally, another orientation marking or embossing could be chosen to indicate the stitch length – for example, two adjacent squares cut or embossed next to each other could mean that a stitch length of 2 mm should be selected, and four adjacent squares cut or embossed next to each other would mean that a stitch length of 4 mm should be selected.The most suitable variant in the execution of the orientation recesses and / or orientation embossing depends on various factors - such as the skill level of the users, the length of seam sections and the nature of the respective materials - and cannot be assessed in general terms.

[0040] Basically, coded shapes in the seam allowance can be created in two ways: Firstly, orientation cutouts can be chosen to have the shape of the coded shapes; secondly, orientation cutouts can be chosen so that their shape forms the coded shapes from the respective material. In this case, the coded shapes appear to protrude from or stand out from the edge of the cut piece. This design is preferable, for example, if the selected seam allowance is to be trimmed after the seam has been sewn. Because the orientation cutouts in this variant extend to the side edge(s) of the seam allowance, the protruding shapes can be more easily reached with scissors, and the seam allowance can be trimmed back without difficulty.In hobby and leisure sewing, wider seam allowances are often used than in industrial production, and then trimming them back can make sense, for example for reasons of wearing comfort.

[0041] In the area of ​​orientation imprinting, imprinting the coded form is the preferred option in most cases.

[0042] Coded shapes within the meaning of the invention are all shapes that, by their presence on the seam allowance—regardless of whether they flow into the pattern piece edge or are spaced apart from it; whether cut or embossed; whether individually or in combination—provide information to the sewer about the correct processing of the pattern piece(s). Coded shapes are preferably used in the form of orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings; however, they can also be found in the form of instruction cutouts and / or instruction embossings and / or specific shapes of instruction edges.

[0043] Besides choosing coded shapes for the seam allowances, a more playful approach is also conceivable. For example, orientation cutouts or embossing could feature shapes appropriate to the sewing project. If, for instance, baby shoes are to be sewn from leather, the orientation embossing could be in the form of small footprints, socks, and / or shoes.

[0044] Some sewn items – for example, a simple skirt, a potholder, or a pillowcase – can consist of only one pattern piece. In this case, the seam allowances inherent to the pattern piece would have orientation notches or markings where the seam allowances of the same pattern piece are to be overlapped during sewing (for example, the two side edges of a pattern piece for a simple skirt).

[0045] This single cut part can, in accordance with the invention, also have instruction recesses or instruction embossings as well as instruction edges.

[0046] The ideal design will depend in particular on the size of the pattern pieces, the chosen width of the seam allowances, and the material properties of the fabric. For example, more intricate shapes, patterns, or markings can be incorporated as orientation cutouts or embossings in particularly stable materials than in particularly delicate ones. The fact that some fabrics may curl or fray at the edges after cutting must also be taken into account when designing the orientation cutouts.

[0047] Furthermore, different fabrics and sewing projects may have different best practices regarding how many orientation notches and / or embossings should be placed in a seam, and whether these should all have the same shape or whether a combination of different shapes and placements is advisable. Using different shapes can be useful for clarity or to simplify production. Combined orientation notches or embossings can also serve the previously described function of providing information on how to sew which seam on how many layers of fabric.

[0048] In general, production-related factors may influence the design and placement of the orientation cutouts and / or orientation markings. For example, placing simple orientation cutouts at the edge of the seam allowance would have the advantage that an electronic cutter could cut the pattern piece shape without lifting the blade. Furthermore, compared to placing the orientation cutouts away from the edge of the seam allowance, this would eliminate small pieces of waste in the form of the cutouts that would otherwise need to be manually removed from the pattern pieces.

[0049] In practice, gathering experience in handling, both on the production side and on the user side, will continually yield new insights into which design of the orientation cutouts or orientation embossings is most advantageous for a specific sewing project and a specific user group.

[0050] Regardless of the specific design, a fundamental advantage of orientation cutouts or embossing lies in making the fit clearly visible even during sewing. If the seam allowances were simply printed or dyed to match, it would be impossible to check during the sewing process whether the lower layer of fabric is being processed in a distorted (stretched or gathered) way or has slipped out of place. This is a common problem in practice, especially with very fine or elastic fabrics, and is usually addressed by extensive pinning or clipping.

[0051] This step, however, is usually tedious and time-consuming. If needles are used, they also pose various risks of injury during the sewing process – for example, puncture wounds to the fingers, or if the sewing machine needle hits a pin, one of them can break, and flying fragments can hit sensitive parts of the sewer's face (such as the eyes). If clips are used, they are usually very cumbersome when working at the sewing machine and generally have to be removed early on, before the pinned section is sewn, because they don't fit well under the presser foot.

[0052] It can be advantageous to supplement or replace orientation cutouts and / or embossed markings with printing or adhesive. For example, it can be helpful for users if the starting point of a seam is quickly identifiable by a corresponding printed mark on the seam allowance of the pattern piece placed on top in the sewing machine. Furthermore, instructions or tips for processing could be printed on the seam allowance. It would also be conceivable to supplement simple geometric orientation cutouts with printed numbers indicating the sequence of work steps (for example, if cutting out the orientation cutouts themselves in the form of numbers is not possible or practical due to the material properties of the fabric).

[0053] In this context, printing generally means creating a color on the seam allowance of a pattern piece - regardless of which printing method (for example, screen printing, digital printing, pad printing, stamping technique or others) and which type of paint (varnish, textile paint, stamp ink, chalk, acrylic paint or others) is used for the respective material.

[0054] In this context, the use of adhesive refers to the targeted application of glue to the seam allowance of one or more pattern pieces to simplify or clarify the correct alignment of the pieces. The adhesive itself can be colored and applied to the pattern pieces in a specific shape, creating corresponding, instructive, or coded forms. For example, orientation markings in thinner materials, which cannot be effectively embossed, could be created or clarified by applying adhesive. This allows the user to adhere these adhesive areas according to their corresponding shapes, thus ensuring not only the correct positioning of the pattern pieces but also that the pieces adhere to each other, preventing them from shifting during sewing.

[0055] Adhesive is understood to mean any type of product which enables this product to adhere to itself or to the material - for example, textile adhesive, double-sided textile adhesive tape, anti-slip coatings, Velcro or similar.

[0056] In principle, the pattern piece sets according to the invention can consist of various materials and also combine different materials with one another – depending on the sewn product to be made. For example, a pattern piece set consisting of jersey and ribbing can be useful when sewing baby trousers. Or a pattern piece set can consist of leather pattern pieces on the one hand and lining fabric pattern pieces on the other, for example to make a handbag.

[0057] Furthermore, it is conceivable that a pattern piece set consists of pattern pieces made of one or more materials and one or more templates for the user to produce additional pattern pieces. This is the preferred embodiment when, for example, existing or specific material is to be incorporated into a sewing garment. In this case, the pattern piece(s) to be added would be provided by one or more templates for producing these pattern pieces.

[0058] An inherent and simultaneously independently inventive part of the invention is / are therefore also one or more templates for the production of cut parts according to the invention for the production of a sewing product, as well as a set comprising one or more such templates.

[0059] A template for producing pattern pieces according to the invention serves to manufacture pattern pieces with orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings and / or instruction cutouts and / or instruction edges, in order to assemble them with other such pattern pieces to form a sewn product. It can thus either supplement an existing pattern piece set consisting of existing pattern pieces or be used in the form of a template set that serves to produce all pattern pieces of the pattern piece set (including orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings and / or instruction cutouts and / or instruction edges).

[0060] Templates for producing pattern pieces with orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossing are characterized by the fact that they already contain the seam allowance for a sewn product and orientation cutouts or embossings are arranged in this seam allowance in such a way that these have corresponding partners in the cut-out pattern pieces, which align with each other when the cut-out pattern pieces are correctly placed on top of each other and thus show the correct position of the pattern pieces relative to each other.

[0061] In addition to orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings, instruction cutouts and / or instruction embossings and / or instruction edges can be integrated into the seam allowances and thus into the template shape.

[0062] For the purposes of the invention, a template is basically any template that reproduces the shape of a cut part with orientation cutouts or orientation embossings and / or instruction cutouts or instruction embossings and / or instruction edges and is suitable for tracing, cutting out, embossing, perforating, laser cutting, etching or creating an impression.

[0063] A template can also be a digital template for the production of a haptic template (for example, by printing it on paper or by printing it with a 3D printer).

[0064] The template for creating pattern pieces with orientation cutouts or orientation embossings, possibly instruction cutouts or instruction embossings and / or instruction edges is particularly relevant for the production of such sewing products in which wholly or partially already used or existing materials are to be used.

[0065] Material can be saved in the production of a sewn garment by, for example, producing parts of a garment (machine-made) from new pattern pieces according to the invention and supplementing it with one or more manually cut pattern pieces from existing material. The production of such supplementary pattern pieces is enabled or facilitated by the described template, taking into account the orientation cutouts or embossings, instruction cutouts or embossings, and / or instruction edges.

[0066] For the cut pieces to be prepared using the template according to the invention, a preferred embodiment of the orientation cutouts would be simple, uncomplicated shapes, as these are easier to cut out manually at home. Depending on the design of the template, cutting can be done with a cutter, fabric knife, craft scalpel, fabric scissors, or other cutting tools.

[0067] The template according to the invention can also be used in a set of several templates for the production of complete pattern-piece sets for smaller sewing products such as underpants or briefs from existing materials. A set of several templates can also be arranged within a single template body, so that one template body contains multiple templates.

[0068] In principle, the use of templates according to the invention allows the production of complete pattern piece sets with a novel seam allowance inherent in the pattern piece or of individual pattern pieces of such a pattern piece set.

[0069] There can be many reasons for preferring to use existing material and manually cutting pattern pieces to create a sewing product: For example, for ecological reasons, existing material may be used to create a new sewing product or parts of a new sewing product.

[0070] It is also often economically advantageous to use existing material that is no longer needed, either wholly or in part, for a sewing product.

[0071] Similarly, nostalgic reasons are conceivable - for example, that a user wants to create an everyday garment or home textile from a garment that may not be suitable for everyday use (for example, a souvenir T-shirt or wedding dress).

[0072] The use of the template(s) in accordance with the invention allows the transfer of the advantages of the novel seam allowance inherent in the pattern piece to specially manufactured pattern pieces as part(s) of a pattern piece set according to the invention.

[0073] For the hobby sewer, the novel seam allowance inherent in the pattern piece means that they can quickly and intuitively orient themselves to the pattern pieces belonging to a sewing project and—where applicable—significantly facilitate correct sewing thanks to the orientation cutouts or embossings, instruction cutouts or embossings, and / or instruction edges already incorporated into the seam allowance. A time-consuming process of "reading, understanding, positioning, checking, and sewing" is replaced by a faster, precise positioning and sewing process. Time-consuming pinning before sewing can be at least reduced, as the invention allows for checking at any time that nothing has shifted.

[0074] The sewing process becomes simpler, faster, and of higher quality. This also prevents errors that can lead to waste, unnecessary material scraps, frustration, or unusable results. At the same time, comfort, safety, and a sense of accomplishment while sewing are enhanced.

[0075] For the industrial production of sewn goods, this invention can serve quality assurance purposes, as it facilitates the uniform creation of stretches or gathers. Furthermore, the intuitive handling can accelerate the training time of seamstresses for each work step.

[0076] Furthermore, in future, potentially automated sewing processes, sensors could detect the correct seam allowances based on the different shapes and thus process the pattern pieces correctly.

[0077] The cut pieces with the inherent seam allowance according to the invention can be produced in various ways. Orientation cutouts can be cut manually with scissors, a blade, or a hand punch. Or—more relevant in high-volume production—machine cutouts can be made using lasers, cutting blades in die-cutting machines, or electric cutters. Orientation embossing can be applied manually or with an electric embossing machine.

[0078] For the production of the pattern piece sets according to the invention, computer-aided production process methods are preferably used. These can provide an adequate arrangement and design of the orientation cutouts and / or orientation embossings in the seam allowances inherent in the pattern pieces, either through manual input or subsequently independently.

[0079] Furthermore, with appropriate technology - such as digital body scans - individual production of the pattern piece sets in accordance with the invention is provided for according to individual body measurements.

[0080] Generally speaking: Once the template for a pattern piece set with a novel seam allowance inherent to the pattern piece has been created, the cutting can be done either in mass production or in individual production, digitally or with the help of a template.

[0081] Preferred embodiments of the invention are explained in more detail below with reference to drawings. These drawings show Fig. 1 a set of 3 cutting parts according to the state of the art; Fig. 2a-2b . each set with 3 pattern pieces and seam allowance according to the invention; Fig. 3a-3f different versions of the seam allowance according to the invention; Fig. 4a-4b Pattern pieces made of a stretchable fabric for sewing; Fig. 5 Cut pieces with corresponding embossing. Fig. 6a-6ba template for creating pattern pieces with seam allowance according to the invention or a set of pattern pieces and a supplementary template for creating a further pattern piece with seam allowance according to the invention. Fig. 7 a paper template printed from a digital template for creating pattern pieces with seam allowance according to the invention.

[0082] Figure 1Figure 1 shows a pattern piece set with three pattern pieces 3 according to the prior art. Each pattern piece 3 is bounded laterally by a pattern piece edge 1. Distanced from the pattern piece edge 1 are the seam allowance 4 and the seam line 2, both known from the prior art. When manufacturing a sewn product, the pattern pieces 3 are positioned so that their seam lines 2, pattern piece edges 1, and seam allowances 4 are aligned. Care must be taken to ensure that the correct pattern pieces 3 are aligned precisely with each other in the correct orientation, possibly requiring any necessary stretching. Errors and inaccuracies frequently occur during this process. Even individual snips / auxiliary cuts for positioning cannot solve this problem.

[0083] Figure 2a and 2bFigure 1 shows a set of three pattern pieces 3 according to the present invention. Each pattern piece 3 also has a pattern edge 1, a seam line 2, and a seam allowance 5. In contrast to the prior art, the functional seam allowance 5, which is essential to the invention, enables easy alignment and precise positioning of the pattern pieces 3 relative to one another. For this purpose, orientation recesses 6 are arranged in the seam allowance 5. As shown here, the recesses 6 are designed such that numbers are formed in the cut edge 1 of the pattern piece. This allows, particularly advantageously, the sequence of sewing steps to be predetermined, and it can also be determined which section of a pattern piece 3 is to be overlapped and sewn with which section of the same or another pattern piece 3.

[0084] The formation of number forms can be achieved in two ways, as shown: In Figure 2aThe numbers are formed by omitting the number shape in edge 1 of seam allowance 5; in Figure 2b The orientation recesses 6 are chosen so that the remaining material forms the shape of a number and this number then appears as if it were standing out from the cut edge 1.

[0085] Figure 2c Figure 1 shows a set of three cut pieces 3 with a seam allowance 5 according to the invention, into which orientation recesses 6 in the form of geometric shapes are cut at intervals from the cut piece edge 1. Such an embodiment is preferred, for example, when the cut pieces are to be punched with strip steel knives and shapes with few angles are to be chosen for cost reasons.

[0086] Figures 3a to 3f Each figure shows excerpts of various preferred embodiments of individual seam allowances 5 according to the invention with differently designed orientation recesses 6. Figure 3aCircular cutouts 6 are provided, spaced apart from the edge of the pattern piece 1. Due to their familiar shape, these are particularly easy for users to grasp and, together with other geometric shapes such as triangles, rectangles, diamonds, or ovals, are especially useful for simple sewing projects with few pattern pieces 3. They also allow for easy alignment of the corresponding orientation cutouts 6 with each other during the sewing process. However, this does not prevent the possibility of two pattern pieces 3 being positioned with the wrong fabric orientation (e.g., edges not flush, but overlapping). For this reason, circular cutouts 6, or generally symmetrical cutouts 6, are preferably used in sets for advanced sewers who have already internalized the basic sewing procedures.When producing cut pieces 3 with cutouts 6 spaced apart from the cut piece edge 1, small pieces of offcut material in the shape and size of the cutouts 6 are usually generated. This can be advantageous if the "offcut confetti" is to be used, for example, as filler material. However, depending on the situation and material, it can also be disadvantageous because—especially with multi-layered cutting—the small pieces may have to be removed from the cut pieces 3 and separated from them in a further work step.

[0087] Depending on the manufacturing process, the recesses 6 may be designed to extend to the cut edge 1, as shown in Figure 3b The recesses 6 are positioned accordingly, extending into the cut edge 1, and are shown as a semicircle, thus forming part of the shape of the cut edge 1.

[0088] A preferred embodiment of the orientation recesses 6 is in the form of numbers as shown in Figure 3c to 3e presented in various versions. Figure 3c Figure 1 shows a variant in which the number 1 is positioned as an orientation notch 6 in the seam allowance 5 in such a way that it forms the shape of the pattern piece edge 1 in the cut. This variant is particularly suitable for use in materials and sewn products where the seam allowance 5 is not to be trimmed afterwards and / or the pattern piece edge 1 should not appear so "frayed". Another variant for creating the number 1 is to choose the orientation notches 6 in the seam allowance 5 so that the shape of a 1 is formed around them – as shown in Figure 1. Figure 3dThe figure is illustrated. In this diagram, additional small protruding triangles have been created by the choice of cutouts 6, which provide the sewer with further orientation points on the edge 1 of the pattern pieces 3 between the ones. Combining several shapes of cutouts 6 can be advantageous for reasons of clarity or production efficiency. The different shapes can also provide different instructions for processing the pattern pieces 3: For example, in this example, the 1 could indicate that this is the first seam of the sewing project, and the two adjacent triangles could indicate that two layers of fabric are to be sewn together.

[0089] Figure 3eFigure 5 shows a variation of the seam allowance in which the orientation notches are chosen to form protruding and indented elements along the edge of the pattern piece 1. This variation is particularly advantageous when whether an element is indented or protruding provides further information for sewing the seam. As described, the indented numbers can indicate the sequence of work steps and mark protruding elements, for example, where a stretch stitch (such as a zigzag stitch compared to a straight stitch) should be used. This impression of partially protruding and partially indented shapes is created by adding the width of the orientation notches forming the protruding elements to the width of the notches forming the indented orientation notches – this creates the impression that the seam allowance 5 is slightly narrower and that the protruding elements have been added to it.

[0090] Figure 3f Figure 5 shows a variant of the seam allowance 5 in which orientation cutouts 6, spaced from and extending into the edge of the pattern piece 1, are combined. Such a variant is preferable, for example, for materials that are so fine that more complex shapes of orientation cutouts 6 cannot be placed in the edge of the pattern piece 1, as they would fray there, for example.

[0091] It should be noted that in each seam allowance 5 and each pattern piece 3 several different shapes and patterns of orientation cutouts 6 may also be provided.

[0092] In some designs, the spacing of the recesses 6 of a pattern piece 3 from each other corresponds to the spacing of the corresponding recesses 6 on the same or another pattern piece 3 with which it is to be sewn.

[0093] As in Figure 4a and 4bWhile this may be visible, it is not necessarily the case when a stretchable material is to be sewn to a non-stretchable or less stretchable material. Figure 4a On the left side is a pattern piece 3 made of a non-stretch fabric to be sewn, and on the right side of the Figure 4a A pattern piece 3 made from a stretchable fabric to be sewn – both shown in their unstretched state – is depicted. It can be seen that the spacing between the cutouts 6 is smaller in the stretchable fabric (to be sewn while stretched) when unstretched than in the non-stretchable fabric (to be sewn while unstretched) on the left side. The corresponding cutouts 6 can also appear compressed in this case on the stretchable fabric when unstretched.

[0094] In the Figure 4bIt can be seen how the fabric to be sewn is stretched along the direction of stretch 8 so that the corresponding cutouts 6 align with each other. This allows for guidance on how much a fabric to be sewn should be stretched during the production of the sewing product. When producing corresponding pattern piece sets, fabrics to be sewn are either stretched to create the cutouts 6, or the stretching is factored into the design and arrangement of the cutouts beforehand.

[0095] Figure 5Figure 1 shows a further preferred embodiment of the invention, which is particularly suitable for use with firmer materials such as leather. Instead of orientation recesses 6, one or more orientation embossings 7 are provided. The orientation embossings 7 allow for easy tactile verification that the cut pieces 3 intended for sewing are correctly positioned and oriented. In this case, the embossings 7 can be nested within each other.

[0096] Figures 6a and 6bFigure 1 shows a template for creating pattern pieces 3 with orientation cutouts 6, or a set consisting of a template and finished pattern pieces 3 for creating pattern pieces 3 with orientation cutouts 6 for manufacturing a sewn garment. The template body 9 can be made of different materials suitable for guiding a pen or cutting tool securely around the template and thus transferring its shape. The template edges 10 have orientation cutouts 6 arranged to facilitate the subsequent sewing of the garment by ensuring that the pattern pieces align correctly when positioned relative to each other. Figure 6a and 6b In the illustrated example, the orientation cutouts are so pronounced that they represent numbers, and thus the cut-out pattern pieces also indicate the sequence of the seams to be sewn.

[0097] Figure 7Figure 1 shows a paper template printed from a digital file, which can be manually cut out by the user or another person and used to trace or cut the pattern piece shape onto / into a material. The digital embodiment is always preferred when physically passing on a template is more complex or unsuitable than using a digital version. This can be the case, for example, when a pattern piece set is machine-made and is to be supplemented by individual pattern pieces that are to be cut manually by the user. Printing and then cutting out a template body 9 can be more economical and environmentally friendly than supplying a finished template body 9 – especially if it is a one-off sewing project.Furthermore, the use of a digital format – for example, as a vector file – is always necessary when the cutting or drawing tool requires this digital information for cutting or plotting. This is the case, for example, with the machine production of cut parts using lasers or electric cutting machines. Reference symbol list:

[0098] 1) Cut edge 2) Seam line 3) Cut piece 4) Conventional seam allowance 5) Functional seam allowance 6) Orientation cutout 7) Orientation embossing 8) Stretch direction 9) Template body 10) Template edge 11) Paper 12) Printed line

Claims

1. Set comprising at least two pattern pieces (3) for producing a sewn product, wherein the pattern pieces (3) have a seam allowance (5) inherent to the pattern piece, in each of which at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) is arranged, whereby the at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) in a first pattern piece corresponds to an orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) arranged in a second pattern piece, and both orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossings (7) on the respective cut pieces (3) are arranged and designed in such a way that, when the seam allowances (5) are superimposed, they align with each other and thereby determine the positioning and alignment of the cut piece edges (1) relative to each other that is necessary for manufacturing the sewn product, characterized in that the orientation recesses or orientation embossings form coded shapes in the seam allowance which provide information to the seamstress about the correct processing of the cut piece(s).

2. Set according to claim 1, characterized in that the corresponding orientation recesses (6) are formed by shapes in the seam allowances (5) that are identical in shape and size.

3. Set according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the seam allowance (5) of a first pattern piece has at least two different orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossings (7), which correspond to two correspondingly different orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossings (7) on the second pattern piece.

4. Set according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the orientation recesses (6) extend from the edge (1) of the pattern pieces (3) into the seam allowance (5).

5. Set according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossings (7) are spaced apart from the edge (1) of the cut piece (3).

6. Set according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the seam allowances (5) have numbers or letters cut into them.

7. Set according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the seam allowances (5) have orientation recesses (6) cut into them, which form shapes, numbers or letters protruding from the edge (1) of the cut pieces and thus form the shape of the cut piece edge (1).

8. Set according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the seam allowances (5) of the respective cut pieces (3) have corresponding embossings (7) which align with each other when the seam allowances (5) are superimposed.

9. Set according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the orientation recesses (6) and / or orientation embossings (7) are supplemented by printing and / or adhesive bonding on the seam allowances.

10. Pattern piece (3) for use in a set according to claim 1, which has a seam allowance (5) in which at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) is cut, punched or embossed.

11. Template for producing a pattern piece (3) for use in a set according to claim 1.

12. Set comprising at least one first pattern piece (3) and a template according to claim 11 for producing a second pattern piece (3), wherein the first pattern piece (3) has a seam allowance (5) inherent to the pattern piece, in which at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) is arranged in each case, characterized in that the at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) in a first cut piece corresponds to an orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) arranged in the second cut piece, and the orientation recess(es) (6) or orientation embossings (7) (7) are arranged and designed on the respective cut pieces in such a way that, when the seam allowances are superimposed, they align with each other and thereby determine the positioning and alignment of the cut piece edges (1) relative to each other that is necessary for manufacturing the sewn product.

13. Set comprising at least two templates according to claim 11 for producing at least a first and a second cut piece (3), characterized in that at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) in a first cut piece corresponds to an orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) arranged in a second cut piece, and the orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossing(s) (7) on the respective cut pieces are arranged and designed in such a way that, when the seam allowances are superimposed, they align with each other and thereby determine the positioning and alignment of the cut piece edges (1) relative to each other that is necessary for the manufacture of the sewn product.