Method for dyeing keratin material, comprising the use of an organic c1-c6-alkoxy-silane and an alkalising agent

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, according to which the following are used on the keratin material: a first composition (A) which contains: (A1) one or more organic C1-C6-alkoxy-silanes and / or condensation products thereof, and (A2) at least one dyeing compound from the group of pigments and the direct dyes, and a second composition (B) which contains (1B) at least one alkalising agent.

Description

[0001] The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, which comprises the application of two compositions (A) and (B). Composition (A) is a composition containing a combination of the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A11) and (A12) and at least one colorant compound (A2) from the group of pigments, and composition (B) comprises at least one alkalizing agent (B1) and 45.0 to 97.0 wt. % water.

[0002] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring experts are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

[0003] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0004] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.

[0005] WO 2018 / 130912 A1 relates to a method for coating mammalian hair, wherein a reactive aminosilicone present in an aqueous emulsion is applied.

[0006] EP 2168633 B1 addresses the problem of creating long-lasting hair colorings using pigments. The document teaches that using a combination of pigment, organic silicon compound, hydrophobic polymer, and a solvent, it is possible to create hair colorings that are particularly resistant to shampooing.

[0007] The organic silicon compounds used in EP 2168633 B1 are reactive compounds from the class of alkoxysilanes. These alkoxysilanes hydrolyze rapidly in the presence of water and form hydrolysis products and / or condensation products, depending on the amounts of alkoxysilane and water used. The influence of the amount of water used in this reaction on the properties of the hydrolysis or condensation product is described, for example, in WO 2013068979 A2.

[0008] When these alkoxysilanes or their hydrolysis or condensation products are applied to keratin material, a film or coating forms on the keratin material, completely enveloping the keratin material and thus strongly influencing its properties. Possible areas of application include permanent styling or the permanent modification of keratin fibers. In this process, the keratin fibers are mechanically shaped into the desired form and then fixed in this form by forming the aforementioned coating. Another particularly suitable application is the coloring of keratin material; in this application, the coating or film is created in the presence of a colorant, such as a pigment. The film colored by the pigment remains on the keratin material or fibers and results in surprisingly wash-resistant colorations.

[0009] The major advantage of the alkoxysilane-based coloring principle is that the high reactivity of this class of compounds enables very rapid coating. This allows good coloring results to be achieved after application periods of just a few minutes. The shorter the application times of the hair treatment products, the greater the comfort for the user. However, especially with very short application periods, the color intensity of the resulting color still requires optimization. There is also still room for improvement with regard to the durability of the color, especially its washfastness.

[0010] The objective of the present application was to find a process for coloring keratinous material that demonstrates improvements in color intensity and fastness properties. Particularly when choosing a short application period that is particularly convenient for the user, the color intensity, washfastness, and rubfastness should be improved compared to the colorations that can currently be achieved with the formulations known from the prior art.

[0011] Surprisingly, it has been found that this object can be fully achieved if the keratin material is colored in a process in which two compositions (A) and (B) are applied to the keratin material. The first composition (A) contains the combination of two organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and / or their condensation products, as well as at least one colorant compound from the group of pigments. The second composition (B) is characterized by its content of at least one alkalizing agent and 45.0 to 97.0 wt.% water.

[0012] A first object of the present invention is a process for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the given order: (1) Applying a first composition (A) to the keratin material, wherein the first composition (A) contains: (A11) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, and (A12) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, Hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their condensation products,and (A2) at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments (2) allowing the composition (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, (3) rinsing the composition (A) from the keratin material, (4) applying a second composition (B), wherein the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains (B1) at least one alkalizing agent, and (B2) 45.0 to 97.0 wt.% water, (5) allowing the composition (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, (6) rinsing the composition (B) from the keratin material. ,

[0013] When composition (A) was applied to the keratin material as part of a coloring process, an increase in color intensity was observed, especially when composition (B) was applied to the keratin material as a post-treatment agent after application of composition (A). In addition to the increase in color intensity, an improvement in washfastness and rubfastness was also surprisingly observed in this context. Treatment of keratin material

[0014] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.

[0015] Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is most preferably understood to mean human hair.

[0016] Agents for treating keratin material include, for example, agents for coloring keratin material, agents for reshaping or shaping keratin material, in particular keratin fibers, or agents for conditioning or caring for keratin material. The agents produced by the process according to the invention are particularly suitable for coloring keratin material, in particular for coloring keratin fibers, which are particularly preferably human hair.

[0017] The term "coloring agent" is used in the context of this invention for the coloring of keratin material, especially hair, caused by the use of coloring compounds, such as thermochromic and photochromic dyes, pigments, mica, and direct dyes. During this coloring, the aforementioned coloring compounds are deposited in a particularly homogeneous and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material or diffuse into the keratin fiber. The film forms in situ by oligomerization or polymerization of the organic alkoxysilane(s), and by the interaction of the color-providing compound and the organic silicon compound and optionally further components, such as a film-forming polymer. Organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and / or their condensation products in the composition (A)

[0018] The composition (A) is characterized in that it comprises at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A11) selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, and (A12) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their condensation products.

[0019] Organic silicon compounds, alternatively also called organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is linked to the silicon atom via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom.

[0020] According to IUPAC rules, the term silane refers to a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen. In organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups.

[0021] A characteristic feature of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes according to the invention is that at least one C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group is directly bonded to a silicon atom. The C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes according to the invention thus comprise at least one structural unit R'R"R‴Si-O-(C 1 -C 6 alkyl), where the radicals R', R", and R‴ represent the three remaining bond valences of the silicon atom.

[0022] The C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group(s) bonded to the silicon atom are highly reactive and are hydrolyzed rapidly in the presence of water. The reaction rate depends, among other things, on the number of hydrolyzable groups per molecule. If the hydrolyzable C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R"R‴Si-O-CH2-CH3. The radicals R', R", and R‴ represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.

[0023] Even the addition of small amounts of water initially leads to hydrolysis and then a condensation reaction between the organic alkoxysilanes. For this reason, both the organic alkoxysilanes and their condensation products can be included in the composition.

[0024] A condensation product is understood to be a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes with elimination of water and / or with elimination of a C 1 -C 6 alkanol.

[0025] The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, whereby the condensation products are in equilibrium with the monomers.

[0026] Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane to condensation product.

[0027] Organic silicon compounds which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are - (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane

[0028] - (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane

[0029] - (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane

[0030] - (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane

[0031] - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane

[0032] - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane

[0033] - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane.

[0034] - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or

[0035]

[0036] The process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A11) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their condensation products.

[0037] The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are commercially available. (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0038] Dyeings with the best wash fastness properties could be obtained when the composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A12).

[0039] Organic silicon compounds which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are - Methyltrimethoxysilane

[0040] - Methyltriethoxysilane

[0041] - Ethyltrimethoxysilane

[0042] - Ethyltriethoxysilane

[0043] - n-Hexyltrimethoxysilane (also known as hexyltrimethoxysilane)

[0044] - n-Hexyltriethoxysilane (also known as hexyltriethoxysilane)

[0045] - n-Octyltrimethoxysilane (also known as octyltrimethoxysilane)

[0046] - n-Octyltriethoxysilane (also known as octyltriethoxysilane)

[0047] - n-dodecyltrimethoxysilane (also known as dodecyltrimethoxysilane) and / or

[0048] - n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane (also called dodecyltriethoxysilane).

[0049]

[0050] The process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A12) which is selected from the group consisting of Methyltrimethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane Ethyltrimethoxysilane Ethyltriethoxysilane Hexyltrimethoxysilane Hexyltriethoxysilane Octyltrimethoxysilane Octyltriethoxysilane Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, and / or their condensation products.

[0051] The corresponding hydrolysis or condensation products are, for example, the following compounds: Hydrolysis of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane with water (reaction scheme using the example of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane):

[0052] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used: or

[0053] Hydrolysis of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of formula (S-IV) with water (reaction scheme using methyltrimethoxysilane as an example):

[0054] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used: or

[0055] Possible condensation reactions are, for example (shown using the mixture (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane): and / or and / or and / or and / or and / or and / or

[0056] In the above exemplary reaction schemes, the condensation to a dimer is shown, but further condensations to oligomers with several silane atoms are also possible and preferred.

[0057] The composition (A) according to the invention may contain the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A11) and (A12) in various proportions. These are determined by the person skilled in the art depending on the desired thickness of the silane coating on the keratin material and the amount of keratin material to be treated.

[0058] Particularly storage-stable compositions with very good dyeing results in use could be obtained when the composition (A) - based on its total weight - contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and / or the condensation products thereof in a total amount of 30.0 to 85.0 wt.%, preferably 35.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably 40.0 to 75.0 wt.%, even more preferably 45.0 to 70.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 50.0 to 65.0 wt.%.

[0059] In a further embodiment, a very particularly preferred process is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and / or the condensation products thereof in a total amount of 30.0 to 85.0 wt.%, preferably from 35.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably from 40.0 to 75.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 45.0 to 70.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 50.0 to 65.0 wt.%. Coloring compounds (A2) in composition (A)

[0060] As a second component essential to the invention, the composition (A) contains at least one color-providing compound (A2) from the group of pigments.

[0061] Pigments in the sense of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

[0062] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.

[0063] In a preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.

[0064] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0065] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0066] Also particularly preferred coloring compounds from the group of pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the group of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

[0067] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one inorganic pigment (A2), which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0068] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).

[0069] In a further preferred embodiment, the composition (A) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from mica- or mica-based coloring compounds coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0070] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition (A) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0071] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.

[0072] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona ®< are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491(Iron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,

[0073] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona ®< are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

[0074] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ®< are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0075] In a further embodiment, composition (A) may also contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments

[0076] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0077] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0078] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic pigment (A2) which is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0079] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.

[0080] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.

[0081] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agents according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the formed polymer film and, on the other hand, avoids a rough feeling in the hair or skin after application of the cosmetic agent. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably from 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably from 10 to 40 µm, in particular from 14 to 30 µm. The average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0082] Pigments with a specific shape can also be used to color the keratin material. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and / or lenticular substrate plate can be used. Furthermore, coloring based on a substrate plate containing a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.

[0083] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one colored pigment (A2) which is selected from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet, and pigments based on a substrate platelet which comprises a vacuum metallized pigment.

[0084] The substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, more preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, more preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Preferably, each substrate platelet has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.

[0085] Due to the low thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high covering power.

[0086] The substrate platelets have a monolithic structure. Monolithic in this context means consisting of a single, closed unit without fractures, stratification, or inclusions, although structural changes may occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably homogeneous, meaning that no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets do not have a layered structure and do not contain any particles or particles distributed within them.

[0087] The size of the substrate platelet can be tailored to the specific application, especially the desired effect on the keratin material. Typically, the substrate platelets have an average diameter of approximately 2 to 200 µm, particularly approximately 5 to 100 µm.

[0088] In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, and particularly preferably more than 750. The average size of the uncoated substrate platelets is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate platelets. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be tested was predispersed in isopropanol for 3 minutes.

[0089] The substrate platelets can be made of any material that can be formed into platelets.

[0090] They can be of natural origin or synthetically produced. Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed include metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi-)precious stones, as well as plastics. The substrate platelets are preferably made of metal (or metal alloys).

[0091] Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air- and water-resistant (semi-)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum, and silicon, as well as their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver, and gold. Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with aluminum platelets being particularly preferred.

[0092] Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also called "cornflakes" due to their appearance.

[0093] Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high degree of scattered light. Furthermore, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinous material, and effects similar to natural graying can be achieved, for example.

[0094] Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate platelets have a generally regular, round edge and are also called "silver dollars" due to their appearance. Due to their regular structure, the proportion of reflected light predominates in pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets.

[0095] Vacuum metallized pigments ( vacuum metallized pigments,VMPs can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys, or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are characterized by a particularly low thickness of the substrate platelets in the range of 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets comprising a vacuum-metallized pigment are also referred to as VMP substrate platelets in this application. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.

[0096] The substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

[0097] Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VPM substrate plates, especially those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop, but no color impression.

[0098] A color impression can be created, for example, due to optical interference effects. Such pigments can be based on substrate platelets with at least a single coating. These exhibit interference effects through the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light rays.

[0099] Accordingly, preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated lamellar substrate platelet. The substrate platelet preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm. A further coating A is preferably present between the coating B and the surface of the substrate platelet. Optionally, a further coating C, which is different from the underlying layer B, is present on the layer B.

[0100] Suitable materials for coatings A, B, and C are all substances that can be applied to the substrate platelets in a film-like and permanent manner and, in the case of layers A and B, have the required optical properties. In general, coating part of the surface of the substrate platelets is sufficient to obtain a pigment with a glossy effect. For example, only the top and / or bottom side of the substrate platelets can be coated, leaving the side surface(s) uncoated. Preferably, the entire surface of the optionally passivated substrate platelets, including the side surfaces, is covered by coating B. The substrate platelets are therefore completely encased in coating B. This improves the optical properties of the pigment and increases the mechanical and chemical strength of the pigments. The above also applies to layer A and preferably also to layer C, if present.

[0101] Although several coatings A, B and / or C may be present, the coated substrate platelets preferably have only one coating A, B and, if present, C.

[0102] Coating B is composed of at least one high-index metal oxide. High-index materials have a refractive index of at least 1.9, preferably at least 2.0, and particularly preferably at least 2.4. Coating B preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of high-index metal oxide(s).

[0103] Coating B has a thickness of at least 50 nm. Preferably, the thickness of coating B is not more than 400 nm, particularly preferably not more than 300 nm.

[0104] High-index metal oxides suitable for coating B are preferably selectively light-absorbing (i.e., colored) metal oxides, such as iron(III) oxide (α- and γ-Fe2O3, red), cobalt(II) oxide (blue), chromium(III) oxide (green), titanium(III) oxide (blue, usually present in a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides), and vanadium(V) oxide (orange), as well as mixtures thereof. Colorless high-index oxides such as titanium dioxide and / or zirconium oxide are also suitable.

[0105] Coating B may contain a selectively absorbing dye, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of coating B. Suitable dyes are organic and inorganic dyes that can be stably incorporated into a metal oxide coating.

[0106] Coating A preferably comprises at least one low-refractive-index metal oxide and / or metal oxide hydrate. Coating A preferably comprises at least 95 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 99 wt.%, of low-refractive-index metal oxide (hydrate). Low-refractive-index materials have a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6.

[0107] Low-refractive-index metal oxides suitable for coating A include, for example, silicon dioxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide, and mixtures thereof, with silicon dioxide being preferred. Coating A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, more preferably 5 to 50 nm, and most preferably 5 to 20 nm.

[0108] Preferably, the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and the inner surface of coating B is at most 100 nm, more preferably at most 50 nm, especially preferably at most 20 nm. By keeping the thickness of coating A and thus the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and coating B in the range specified above, it can be ensured that the pigments have a high hiding power.

[0109] If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate platelet has only one layer A, it is preferred that the pigment has a lamellar substrate platelet made of aluminum and a layer A of silicon dioxide. If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate platelet has a layer A and a layer B, it is preferred that the pigment has a lamellar substrate platelet made of aluminum, a layer A of silicon dioxide, and a layer B of iron oxide.

[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments have a further coating C of a metal oxide (hydrate), which is different from the underlying coating B. Suitable metal oxides are, for example, silicon (di)oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron(III) oxide, and chromium(III) oxide. Silicon dioxide is preferred.

[0111] Coating C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm. By providing coating C, for example based on TiO 2 , better interference can be achieved while still ensuring high hiding power.

[0112] Layers A and C serve in particular as corrosion protection as well as for chemical and physical stabilization. Layers A and C particularly preferably contain silicon dioxide or aluminum oxide, which are applied using the sol-gel process. This process comprises dispersing the uncoated lamellar substrate platelets or the lamellar substrate platelets already coated with layer A and / or layer B in a solution of a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide (usually in a solution of organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvent and water with at least 50 wt.% organic solvent such as a C1 to C4 alcohol), and adding a weak base or acid to hydrolyze the metal alkoxide, thereby forming a film of the metal oxide on the surface of the (coated) substrate platelets.

[0113] Layer B can be produced, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and / or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if necessary, subsequent post-treatment (for example, transferring a formed hydroxide-containing layer into the oxide layer by tempering).

[0114] Although each of the coatings A, B and / or C may be composed of a mixture of two or more metal oxide (hydrates), each of the coatings is preferably composed of one metal oxide (hydrate).

[0115] The pigments based on coated lamellar or lenticular substrate platelets or the pigments based on coated VMP substrate platelets preferably have a thickness of 70 to 500 nm, more preferably 100 to 400 nm, especially preferably 150 to 320 nm, for example 180 to 290 nm. Due to the low thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has particularly high hiding power. The low thickness of the coated substrate platelets is achieved in particular by keeping the thickness of the uncoated substrate platelets low, but also by setting the thicknesses of coatings A and, if present, C to the smallest possible value. The thickness of coating B determines the color impression of the pigment.

[0116] The adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on coated substrate platelets in the keratinous material can be significantly increased by additionally modifying the outermost layer, layer A, B, or C, depending on the structure, with organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates, or carboxylic acids. The organic compounds are bound to the surface of the outermost, preferably metal oxide-containing, layer A, B, or C. The outermost layer is the layer spatially furthest away from the lamellar substrate platelet. The organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds that can bind to the metal oxide-containing layer A, B, or C. These can be either monofunctional or bifunctional compounds.Beispiele für bifunktionelle organische Verbindungen sind Methacryloxypropenyltrimethoxysilan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilan, 3- Acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilan, 2-Acryloxyethyltrimethoxysilan, 3-Methacryloxy- propyltriethoxysilan, 3-Acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilan, 2-Methacryloxyethyl- triethoxysilan, 2-Acryloxyethyltriethoxysilan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltris(methox-yethoxy)silan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltris(butoxyethoxy)silan, 3-Methacryloxy-propyltris(propoxy)silan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltris(butoxy)silan, 3-Acryloxy-propyltris(methoxyethoxy)silan, 3-Acryloxypropyltris(butoxyethoxy)silan, 3-Acryl-oxypropyltris(butoxy)silan, Vinyltrimethoxysilan, Vinyltriethoxysilan, Vinylethyl- dichlorsilan, Vinylmethyldiacetoxysilan, Vinylmethyldichlorsilan, Vinylmethyldiethoxysilan, Vinyltriacetoxysilan, Vinyltrichlorsilan, Phenylvinyldiethoxysilan, oder Phenylallyldichlorsilan.Furthermore, modification can be carried out with a monofunctional silane, in particular an alkylsilane or arylsilane. This has only one functional group, which can bond covalently to the surface of the pigment based on coated lamellar substrate platelets (i.e., to the outermost metal oxide-containing layer) or, if not completely covered, to the metal surface. The hydrocarbon radical of the silane points away from the pigment. Depending on the type and nature of the hydrocarbon radical of the silane, a different degree of hydrophobization of the pigment is achieved. Examples of such silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc. Particular preference is given to pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated aluminum substrate platelets surface-modified with a monofunctional silane. Particular preference is given to octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hecadecyltrimethoxysilane, and hecadecyltriethoxysilane.The modified surface properties / hydrophobization can result in improvements in adhesion, abrasion resistance and alignment during application.

[0117] Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.

[0118] Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace ®< Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0119] Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace ®< Marvelous or Alegrace ®< Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0120] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (A) contains one or more pigments in a total amount of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (A). Other cosmetic ingredients in the composition (A)

[0121] In addition, composition (A) may also contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.

[0122] The cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in composition (A) can be any suitable components to impart further beneficial properties to the product. For example, composition (A) can contain a solvent, a thickening or film-forming polymer, a surface-active compound from the group of nonionic, cationic, anionic, or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, coloring compounds from the group of pigments, direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors, fatty components from the group of C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, perfumes, preservatives, plant extracts, and protein hydrolysates.

[0123] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the product. Regarding further optional components and the amounts used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert.

[0124] In this context, it has proven particularly preferred to use in composition (A) a cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0125] In another particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0126] Hexamethyldisiloxane has the CAS number 107-46-0 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0127] Octamethyltrisiloxane has the CAS number 107-51-7 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0128] Decamethyltetrasiloxane has the CAS number 141-62-8 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0129] Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane has the CAS No. 541-05-9.

[0130] Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane has the CAS number 556-67-2.

[0131] Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane has the CAS No. 541-02-6.

[0132] The use of hexamethyldisiloxane in composition (A) has proven particularly preferred. Hexamethyldisiloxane is particularly preferably present in composition (A) in amounts of 1.0 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 1.3 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of composition (A). Water content (A1) in composition (A)

[0133] The method according to the invention is characterized by the application of a first composition (A) to the keratinic material.

[0134] In the context of the present invention, composition (A) is a ready-to-use composition which, in its present form, can be applied to the keratin materials, in particular to the hair.

[0135] Within the scope of the process according to the invention, composition (A) can be provided in its present form in a container. However, with the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes, composition (A) contains highly reactive compounds. To avoid problems associated with storage stability, however, it is particularly preferred to prepare the ready-to-use and reactive composition (A) only shortly before use by mixing two or more storage-stable compositions. For example, the ready-to-use composition (A) can be prepared by mixing an aqueous silane blend (AI), which contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes (A1) in concentrated form, and a water-rich carrier formulation (A-II), which can be, for example, a gel, a lotion, or a surfactant system.

[0136] The ready-to-use composition (A) accordingly preferably has a higher water content, which - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - can be in the range from 50.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably from 55.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably from 60.0 to 90.0 wt.% and particularly preferably from 70.0 to 90.0 wt.%.

[0137] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains 50.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably from 55.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably 60.0 to 90.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 70.0 to 90.0 wt.% of water. pH of the compositions (A)

[0138] Further experiments have shown that the pH values ​​of composition (A) can influence the color intensities achieved during dyeing. It was found that alkaline pH values, in particular, have a beneficial effect on the dyeing performance achievable in the process.

[0139] For this reason, it is preferred that the compositions (A) have a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0 and most preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0140] The pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the state of the art, such as pH measurement using glass electrodes via combination measuring chains or using pH indicator paper.

[0141] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (A) has a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0142] To adjust the above-mentioned pH values, the alkalizing agents can be used which can also be used to adjust the pH value of composition (B). Alkalizing agent (B1) in composition (B)

[0143] As ingredient (B1) essential to the invention, the composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent.

[0144] The alkalizing agent is particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, C 2 -C 6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.

[0145] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent (B1) which is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, C 2 -C 6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal carbonates and alkaline earth metal carbonates.

[0146] It has been found that post-treatment with a composition (B) containing ammonia has a particularly good effect on improving the wash fastness and rubbing fastness of the dyeings obtained in the process.

[0147] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains ammonia as alkalizing agent (B1).

[0148] Good results were also obtained when the composition (B) contained at least one C 2 -C 6 alkanolamine as alkalizing agent (B1).

[0149] The alkanolamines usable in composition (B) can be selected, for example, from the group of primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 alkyl parent structure bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.

[0150] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent (B1) from the group of alkanolamines, which is preferably selected from the group of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.

[0151] Good results were also obtained when the composition (B) contained at least one basic amino acid as alkalizing agent (a2).

[0152] An amino acid within the meaning of the invention is an organic compound that contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in its structure. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.

[0153] According to the invention, basic amino acids are understood to be amino acids which have an isoelectric point pl of greater than 7.0.

[0154] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L-configuration.

[0155] The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and / or histidine.

[0156] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent (B1) from the group of basic amino acids, which is preferably selected from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.

[0157] Good results were also obtained when composition (B) contained at least one alkali metal hydroxide as the alkalizing agent (B1). Examples of suitable alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

[0158] Good results were also obtained when composition (B) contained at least one alkaline earth metal hydroxide as the alkalizing agent (B1). Examples of suitable alkaline earth metal hydroxides include magnesium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and barium hydroxide.

[0159] Good results were also obtained when composition (B) contained at least one alkali metal silicate and / or alkali metal metasilicate as the alkalizing agent (B1). Suitable alkali metal silicates include, for example, sodium silicate and potassium silicate. Suitable alkali metal metasilicates include, for example, sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate.

[0160] Good results were also obtained when composition (B) contained at least one alkali metal carbonate and / or alkaline earth metal carbonate as the alkalizing agent (B1). Suitable alkali metal carbonates include, for example, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Suitable alkaline earth metal carbonates include, for example, magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate.

[0161] Within the group of alkalizing agents mentioned above (B1), ammonia, C 2 -C 6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids and alkali metal hydroxides have proven to be particularly suitable.

[0162] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent (B1) selected from the group consisting of ammonia, C 2 -C 6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids and alkali metal hydroxides.

[0163] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent (B1) which is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Water content of composition (B)

[0164] The composition (B) contains the alkalizing agent(s) (B1) in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.

[0165] Composition (B) contains - based on the total weight of composition (B) - 45.0 to 97.0 wt.% water.

[0166] The process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - 45.0 to 97.0 wt.% water. pH of the compositions (B)

[0167] The alkalizing agents contained in composition (B) influence the pH of the composition. It has been found that alkaline pH values, in particular, have a beneficial effect on the dyeing performance achievable in the process and the fastness properties of the dyeings.

[0168] For this reason, it is preferred that the compositions (B) have a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0 and most preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0169] The pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the state of the art, such as pH measurement using glass electrodes via combination measuring chains or using pH indicator paper.

[0170] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) has a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0171] To adjust this alkaline pH, it may be necessary to add an alkalizing agent and / or acidifying agent to the reaction mixture. The pH values ​​used in the present invention are pH values ​​measured at a temperature of 22°C. Film-forming polymers in composition (B)

[0172] The composition (B) may further contain at least one film-forming polymer

[0173] Polymers are understood to be macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units. The polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers prepared by polymerizing one monomer type or by polymerizing different, structurally different monomer types. If the polymer is prepared by polymerizing one monomer type, it is referred to as a homopolymer. If structurally different monomer types are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.

[0174] The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol, and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.

[0175] For the purposes of the invention, a film-forming polymer is understood to be a polymer capable of forming a film on a substrate, for example, on a keratin material or a keratin fiber. The formation of a film can be demonstrated, for example, by observing the keratin material treated with the polymer under a microscope.

[0176] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer.

[0177] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer which is preferably selected from the group of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid, of acrylic acid esters, of methacrylic acid esters, of acrylic acid amides, of methacrylic acid amides, of vinylpyrrolidone, of vinyl alcohol, of vinyl acetate, of ethylene, of propylene, of styrene, of polyurethanes, of polyesters and / or of polyamides.

[0178] The film-forming polymers can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.

[0179] In a first embodiment, it may be preferred to use at least one hydrophobic, film-forming polymer in the composition (B).

[0180] A hydrophobic polymer is a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 °C (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%.

[0181] The water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, as follows: 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. The beaker is filled to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added, and the mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stirring is continued for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to high turbidity, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the polymer's solubility is less than 1 wt.%.

[0182] In particular, acrylic acid-type polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers, nitrocellulose polymers, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers and polyisoprenes can be mentioned here.

[0183] Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

[0184] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) which is selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

[0185] To achieve the object of the invention, film-forming hydrophobic polymers selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven particularly suitable.

[0186] Other particularly suitable film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinylamides, the esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid with at least one C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, one aryl group or one C 2 -C 10 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0187] Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate; isopentyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate); isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl (meth)acrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate and / or mixtures thereof.

[0188] Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl-(meth)acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide; N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamide.

[0189] Further preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration "Acrylates Copolymers." A suitable commercial product is, for example, Aculyn®< 33 from Rohm & Haas. Also preferred are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, Steareth-20 or Ceteth-20.

[0190] Particularly preferred polymers available on the market are, for example, Aculyn ®< 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn ®< 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001 ®< (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001 ®< (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus ®< (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol ®< 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000 ®< (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or Soltex distributed by Rohme and Haas OPT (Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer).

[0191] Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkylpyrrole, vinyloxazole, vinylthiazole, vinylpyrimidine, and vinylimidazole.

[0192] Also particularly suitable are the copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, as sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER ®< or LOVOCRYL ®< 47, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamide which are sold under the trade names DERMACRYL ®< LT and DERMACRYL ®< 79 by NATIONAL STARCH.

[0193] Suitable polymers based on olefins include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.

[0194] In another embodiment, block copolymers comprising at least one block of styrene or styrene derivatives can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers. These block copolymers can be copolymers containing one or more additional blocks in addition to a styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, or styrene / butadiene. Corresponding polymers are marketed commercially by BASF under the trade name "Luvitol HSB."

[0195] Intense and washfast colorations could also be obtained when the composition (B) contained at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.

[0196] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer which is selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.

[0197] In a first embodiment, it may be preferred to use at least one hydrophilic, film-forming polymer in the composition (B).

[0198] A hydrophilic polymer is understood to be a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 °C (760 mmHg) of more than 1 wt.%, preferably more than 2 wt.%.

[0199] The water solubility of a film-forming, hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, as follows: 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. The volume is made up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added, and the mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stirring is continued for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. A completely dissolved polymer appears homogeneous microscopically. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to high turbidity, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the polymer's solubility is greater than 1 wt.%.

[0200] Non-ionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.

[0201] Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can be selected, for example, from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co)polymers.

[0202] Furthermore, it is particularly preferred to use polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.

[0203] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (c) at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone.

[0204] It is further preferred if the agent according to the invention contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as a film-forming, hydrophilic polymer. Surprisingly, the washfastness of the dyeings obtained with PVP-containing agents (b9) was also very good.

[0205] Particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol ®< K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskole K 90 or Luviskol ®< K 85 from BASF SE.

[0206] Another particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) is the polymer PVP K30, which is marketed by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical). PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone that is highly soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8. The molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approximately 40,000 g / mol.

[0207] Other particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.

[0208] The use of film-forming hydrophilic polymers from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers has also led to particularly good and washfast color results.

[0209] Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers in this context are vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.

[0210] Of the vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymers, a styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer and / or a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer are very particularly preferably used in the cosmetic compositions.

[0211] Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are marketed under the name Luviskol®< VA by BASF SE. A VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer, for example, is marketed under the trade name Aquaflex®< SF-40 by Ashland Inc. A VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer, for example, is marketed under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.

[0212] Other suitable copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone include the copolymers obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one other monomer from the group consisting of N-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol.

[0213] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer which is selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers.

[0214] Another suitable copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name Maltodextrin / VP Copolymer.

[0215] Furthermore, intensively colored keratin material, especially hair, with very good wash fastness could be obtained when a non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer was used as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

[0216] Within the scope of a first embodiment, it may be preferred if the composition (B) contains at least one non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

[0217] For the purposes of the invention, a nonionic polymer is defined as a polymer that, in a protic solvent—such as water—under standard conditions, does not contain structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups that must be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality. Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups but not protonated amines. Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

[0218] The agents are particularly preferred which contain as non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of Polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N,N-di(C 1 to C 4 )-alkylamino-(C 2 to C 4 )-alkylacrylamide.

[0219] If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units contained in the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer contained in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20 to 80 to 80 to 20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40. Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol®< VA 37, Luviskol®< VA 55, Luviskol®< VA 64 and Luviskol®< VA 73 from BASF SE.

[0220] Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

[0221] Another particularly preferred non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N,N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, which is sold, for example, with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, e.g., under the trade name Styleze®< CC 10 by the company ISP.

[0222] A cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is marketed, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ®< 300 (28-32 wt.% active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) by the company ISP.

[0223] Other suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers are, for example, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as sold under the names Luviquat ®< FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552, vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, as sold with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, for example under the name Aquaflex ®< SF 40.

[0224] Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart®< CC 11 and Luviquat®< PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755, or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.

[0225] Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is particularly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 be used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even more preferred that Polyquaternium-46 be used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.

[0226] Suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers include acrylic acid polymers, which can be used in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form. Corresponding products are marketed commercially, for example, under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by Lubrizol, or under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).

[0227] Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.

[0228] Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of polysaccharides are hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, ethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose.

[0229] Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the acrylamide group include, for example, polymers prepared from monomers of (methyl)acrylamido-C1-C4-alkylsulfonic acid or salts thereof. Such polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.

[0230] Preferred polymers of poly(meth)arylamido-C1-C4-alkylsulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.

[0231] Crosslinked and fully or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names "Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulphonate" or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide".

[0232] Another preferred polymer of this type is the cross-linked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer, which is partially neutralised with ammonia and is sold by Clamant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS.

[0233] In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one anionic, film-forming polymer.

[0234] In this context, the best results could be obtained when the composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II) where M represents a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH 4 ), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium.

[0235] When M represents a hydrogen atom, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on an acrylic acid unit.

[0236] If M represents an ammonium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid.

[0237] If M represents a sodium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.

[0238] If M represents a potassium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid.

[0239] When M represents half an equivalent of a magnesium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.

[0240] When M represents half an equivalent of a calcium counterion, the structural unit of formula (PI) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.

[0241] The film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the composition (B) according to the invention. In this context, it has proven particularly preferred for achieving the object of the invention if the composition (B) contains—in each case based on its total weight—one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt. %, preferably 1.0 to 16.0 wt. %, more preferably 5.0 to 14.5 wt. %, and most preferably 8.0 to 12.0 wt. %.

[0242] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) - based on its respective total weight - contains one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably of 1.0 to 16.0 wt.%, more preferably of 5.0 to 14.5 wt.% and most preferably of 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%. Other cosmetic ingredients in the composition (B)

[0243] In addition, composition (B) may also contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.

[0244] The cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in composition (B) can be any suitable components to impart further beneficial properties to the product. For example, composition (A) can contain a solvent, a thickening or film-forming polymer, a surface-active compound from the group of non-ionic, cationic, anionic, or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, coloring compounds from the group of pigments, direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors, fatty components from the group of C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, perfumes, preservatives, plant extracts, and protein hydrolysates.

[0245] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the product. Regarding further optional components and the amounts used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. Application of compositions (A) and (B)

[0246] The method according to the invention comprises the application of the two compositions (A) and (B) to the keratin material. The two compositions (A) and (B) are two different compositions.

[0247] The method according to the invention comprises the following steps in the given order: (1) Applying the first composition (A) to the keratin material, (2) Allowing the composition (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (3) Rinsing the composition (A) out of the keratin material, (4) Applying the composition (B) to the keratin material, (5) Allowing the composition (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (6) Rinsing the composition (B) out of the keratin material.

[0248] According to the invention, rinsing the keratin material with water in steps (3) and (6) of the method means that only water is used for the rinsing process, without any further compositions other than compositions (A) and (B) being used.

[0249] In a step (1), the composition (A) is first applied to the keratin materials, in particular the human hair.

[0250] Composition (A) is now rinsed out of the keratin materials before composition (B) is applied to the hair in the following step.

[0251] In step (4), composition (B) is applied to the keratin materials. After application, composition (B) is allowed to act on the hair.

[0252] In step (6) the composition (B) is now rinsed out of the keratin material with water.

Claims

1. A method for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the order indicated: (1) applying a first composition (A) to the keratin material, wherein the first composition (A) contains (A11) at least one organic C1-C6 alkoxy silane selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their condensation products, and (A12) at least one organic C1-C6 alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their condensation products, and (A2) at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, (2) allowing the composition (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, (3) rinsing the composition (A) out of the keratin material, (4) applying a second composition (B) to the keratin material, wherein the second composition (B) contains, based on the total weight of composition (B) (B1) at least one alkalizing agent, and (B2) 45.0 to 97.0% by weight water, (5) allowing the composition (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, (6) rinsing the composition (B) from the keratin material.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one inorganic pigment (A2) which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or glimmer coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

3. Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic pigment (A2) preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915, and CI 75470.

4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one colored pigment (A2) selected from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate plate, pigments based on a lenticular substrate plate, and pigments based on a substrate plate comprising a vacuum metallized pigment.

5. Process according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

6. Process according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent (B1) selected from the group consisting of ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal carbonates, and alkaline earth metal carbonates.

7. Process according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one alkalizing agent (B1) selected from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethanol, 3-aminopropanol, 4-aminobutanol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropane-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide.

8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the second composition (B) has a pH value of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably 8.0 to 11.0 and most preferably 8.0 to 10.5.

9. Process according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, acrylic acid amides, methacrylic acid amides, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, styrene, polyurethanes, polyester, and / or polyamides.

10. Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, comprising the following steps: (1) applying the first agent (A) to the keratin material, (2) allowing the agent (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 5 minutes, (3) rinsing the agent (A) out of the keratin material, (4) applying the agent (B) to the keratin material, (5) allowing the agent (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 5 minutes, (6) rinsing the agent (B) out of the keratin material.

Images