Cosmetic active ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of canarium exudate and uses thereof

Abstract

The invention mainly relates to an active ingredient intended to impart at least a non-therapeutic cosmetic effect, the ingredient comprising an extract consisting of a non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate, preferably Canarium schweinfurthii. The invention also relates to the uses of an active ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate as a cosmetic agent for use by topical application imparting a repairing and / or anti-inflammatory effect, but also for combating acne, excess sebum and blackheads.

Description

COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENT FROM A NON-VOLATILE FRACTION OF CANARIUM EXUDATE AND ITS USES TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The invention falls within the cosmetic field by proposing a natural cosmetic ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of exudate, or oleoresin, from Canarium.

[0002] The invention relates mainly to such a cosmetic ingredient, to its preparation process and its uses for use by topical application conferring a healing and / or anti-inflammatory effect, but also to combat acne, the presence or appearance of blackheads or even excess sebum secretion. PRIOR ART AND DISADVANTAGES OF PRIOR ART

[0003] In the cosmetics field, and more specifically for cosmetic products applied to the skin, consumers are increasingly seeking products formulated from ingredients of natural origin, respectful of the environment and the user, in order to reflect their aspirations for a healthy lifestyle as well as their environmental and ethical concerns. In addition, such products are free from ingredients derived in particular from petrochemicals, limiting feelings of discomfort, comedogenic reactions or the appearance of redness and are more eco-responsible. Thus, products based on natural ingredients of plant origin, respectful of the environment, constitute a strong expectation from consumers who are always looking for innovative well-being products.

[0004] As such, there is a need for new cosmetic products based on natural, even vegan, ingredients, with healing and anti-inflammatory properties, but also to combat acne, excess sebum and / or the presence of blackheads. OBJECTIVE OF THE INVENTION

[0005] In this context, the invention proposes a new active ingredient or cosmetic active principle, in particular dermo-cosmetic, of plant origin, obtained in an ethical and eco-responsible manner, the preparation of which is easily reproducible, inexpensive, and which has notable skin repair and anti-inflammatory properties, in addition, it is effective against acne, excess sebum, and blackheads. STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0006] To meet this need, the inventors were interested in a natural and original raw material to develop such an active ingredient, namely Canarium, in particular a Canarium exudate.

[0007] For this purpose, the active ingredient of the invention is essentially characterized in that it is derived from a non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate. Also, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one Canarium extract, said extract consisting of the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate,

[0008] The non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate is therefore an extract of Canarium exudate and comprises a mixture of molecules. Preferably, the fraction comprises at least one triterpene. More preferably, the fraction consists of a mixture of triterpenes.

[0009] According to a preferred object, the fraction comprises at least one neutral triterpene and / or at least one acidic triterpene. Other triterpenes may also be present, for example acidic esters.

[0010] Preferably, the neutral triterpene is selected from lanosterol, [3-amyrin, α-amyrin, lupeol, uvaol, erythrodiol and their combination. More preferably, the fraction comprises a mixture of triterpenes, namely lanosterol, [3-amyrin, α-amyrin, lupeol, uvaol and erythrodiol.

[0011] When the fraction comprises an acidic triterpene, this is preferentially chosen from elemolic acid, [3-elemonic acid, tsugaric acid A, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid and their combination.

[0012] According to a particularly preferred subject of the invention, the extract, i.e. the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate, comprises at least lanosterol, [3-amyrin and α-amyrin, elemolic acid, [3-elemonic acid, tsugaric acid A, lupeol, uvaol, erythrodiol, ursolic acid and oleanolic acid.

[0013] Particularly preferably, the ingredient is derived from a non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii, which provides increased effectiveness in skin healing. Also, the ingredient according to the invention comprises preferentially an extract which is a non-volatile fraction of exudate from the species Canarium schweinfurthii, Elemi or African Elemi.

[0014] The ingredient of the invention may also comprise the following optional characteristics considered in isolation or according to all possible technical combinations: the ingredient is derived from a residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, in particular the fraction is a residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, and / or the ingredient has a lanosterol content at least equal to 55 milligrams per gram, and / or the ingredient has a (3-amyrin) content at least equal to 85 milligrams per gram, and / or the ingredient has a (a-amyrin) content at least equal to 215 milligrams per gram, and / or the ingredient has an elemolic acid content at least equal to 20 milligrams per gram, and / or the ingredient has a [3-elemonic acid] content at least equal to 45 milligrams per gram, and / or the ingredient has a tsugaric acid A content of at least 25 milligrams per gram. The extract of the residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii is preferably an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic extract.

[0015] Finally, in a particularly advantageous manner, the active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: • hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, in particular Canarium schweinfurthii, and • obtaining a hydrodistillation or vapodistillation residue forming the non-volatile fraction of Canarium, and • extraction of the non-volatile fraction obtained with solvent, said solvent being a preferably polar solvent other than water, or non-polar, and • collection of solid residues by filtration or centrifugation, and • evaporation of the filtrate or supernatant to produce an active ingredient powder.

[0016] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least one ingredient according to any of the objects previously described, preferably the ingredient represents at least 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The invention further relates to the use of a non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate as a cosmetic agent for use by topical application conferring a restorative and / or anti-inflammatory effect.

[0018] According to another object, the present invention also relates to the ingredient according to any of the objects previously cited, for its use for its healing effects on the skin, or for improving skin repair.

[0019] The ingredient according to the invention also aims to be used for its anti-inflammatory effects, in particular to combat inflammation of skin cells and / or sebocytes.

[0020] According to another subject, the invention relates to the ingredient according to the invention for its use on the skin to prevent and / or combat acne and / or combat excess sebum secretion.

[0021] The use of the invention may also comprise the following optional characteristics considered in isolation or according to all possible technical combinations: the non-volatile fraction is derived from a residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate. the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate has a lanosterol content at least equal to 55 milligrams per gram, and / or the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate has a [3-amyrin] content at least equal to 85 milligrams per gram, and / or the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate has an α-amyrin content at least equal to 215 milligrams per gram, and / or the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate has an elemolic acid content at least equal to 20 milligrams per gram, and / or the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate has a [3-elemonic acid] content of at least 45 milligrams per gram, and / or the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate has a tsugaric acid A content of at least 25 milligrams per gram. the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate is derived from a residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium schweinfurthii.

[0022] Finally, the use of the ingredient according to the invention also aims to combat blackheads, including the appearance of blackheads.

[0023] The invention finally relates to a method for manufacturing an ingredient as previously defined which comprises at least the steps of: hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of the Canarium exudate obtaining a hydrodistillation residue forming a non-volatile fraction of Canarium, extraction of the hydrodistillation residue with solvent, said solvent being a solvent, preferably polar other than water or non-polar, and obtaining the ingredient.

[0024] The method of the invention may also comprise the following optional features considered in isolation or in all possible technical combinations: the solvent extraction operation is carried out at least twice, preferably three times. the method further comprises at least one step of removing the solvent, for example by vacuum evaporation. the Canarium exudate is preferably an exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] The invention is based on the discovery of healing and anti-inflammatory properties of a non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate, in particular Canarium schweinfurthii. In addition, this fraction also makes it possible, and in a particularly surprising way, to combat acne, excess sebum or even the presence or appearance of blackheads. This non-volatile fraction thus makes it possible to manufacture an active ingredient or active principle having such properties, namely healing and anti-inflammatory, fighting against acne, excess sebum secretion, and blackheads. The field of application of the ingredient is the non-therapeutic cosmetic field, more particularly in the context of use by topical application presenting a healing effect of skin repair and anti-inflammatory.

[0026] By "cosmetic active principle" or "cosmetic active ingredient" within the meaning of the invention, we mean at least one molecule, preferably a set of molecules, in particular triterpenes, having an effect on the skin.

[0027] By "extract" of a raw material X, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any molecule or mixture of at least two molecules obtained from a raw material X, regardless of the extraction process of said molecule(s). Preferably, the raw material is Canarium exudate. It may be an extract obtained by hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, making it possible to separate the volatile fraction and the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate, for example the non-volatile fraction of a residue from hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, more preferably, the hydrodistillation or vapodistillation is followed by solvent extraction.

[0028] Also, within the scope of the invention, the term "non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate" means the fraction not comprising the volatile compounds forming the essential oil. The separation of these two fractions, volatile and non-volatile, can be carried out by hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of the exudate. The essential oil is then obtained on one side, and on the other side the non-volatile fraction, the subject of the present invention. The use of a Canarium extract gives the ingredient obtained an eco-responsible character, in particular due to the use of a renewable plant resource and its non-destructive collection. The use of a hydrodistillation or vapodistillation residue also has an eco-responsible character since the residues from the production of essential oils by hydro or vapodistillation of a plant material are normally considered as waste, the invention on the contrary ensuring the recovery of this co-product.

[0029] The exudate, or oleoresin, used in the invention comes from plants of the genus Canarium, which includes around a hundred species of trees, and can be recovered by non-destructive incision of the bark of the tree. The invention relates more particularly, without being limited thereto, to the non-volatile fraction of Canarium luzonicum, whose fragrant resin is called Asian elemi, on the non-volatile fraction of Canarium madagascariense, as well as on the non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii (African elemi). Canarium schweinfurthii will be preferred, but not limited to, for the increased effectiveness of its properties as demonstrated in Example 4.

[0030] The process for preparing the ingredient of the invention has two main steps: a hydrodistillation or vapodistillation operation, and a solvent extraction operation which can be repeated several times.

[0031] The exudate, or oleoresin, of Canarium schweinfurthii, Canarium luzonicum, or Canarium madagascariense is collected by non-destructive incision. The exudate is placed at a low temperature, for example -20°C, and broken into pieces.

[0032] For hydrodistillation, the pieces of exudate are introduced into the flask of the hydrodistillation assembly or into the curcubite of the still. For example, a Clevenger device is used. Distilled, reverse osmosis or ultrapure water is added until the exudate is covered and brought to a boil, which is maintained so that the hydrodistillation takes place for a period of between 2 and 24 hours.

[0033] The hydrodistillation flask or cucurbit is then drained hot or cold to recover the residue mixed with the residual hydrodistillation water. The residue is then allowed to cool until it solidifies from 35°C, then the residual water is removed.

[0034] As an alternative to a hydrodistillation operation carried out at atmospheric pressure, a vacuum hydrodistillation operation or even a vapodistillation known to those skilled in the art can be carried out by bringing the exudate into contact with water vapour.

[0035] At the end of the hydrodistillation or vapodistillation operations, the cooled residue can then be roughly crushed, possibly dried to eliminate the potential presence of residual water and allow a powder to be obtained by grinding.

[0036] Solvent extraction of the residue powder thus obtained is carried out by contacting it with a non-polar solvent, for example hexane, or a polar solvent, for example ethanol. Ethanol is preferred since it can be of natural origin, derived from agro-resources such as beets or cereals. A A mixture of solvents can also be used. The ratio of residue powder to solvent, or solvent mixture, is at least 1 gram of residue powder to 4 milliliters of solvent but can be increased to 1 gram of residue powder to 100 milliliters of solvent, for example. The whole is stirred at a speed of between 50 and 700 revolutions per minute for at least 5 minutes at room temperature or at a temperature above 25°C, taking care, in the latter case, to use a reflux assembly to condense the solvent vapors in the reaction medium.

[0037] The solid residues are then recovered by centrifuging the medium for at least 20 minutes at 2,000 to 6,000 rpm. Alternatively, the solid residue recovery operation can be carried out by filtration.

[0038] The supernatant (centrifugation) or filtrate (filtration) is then evaporated to obtain a dry extract of residue in the form of a solid foam. Evaporation can be carried out under vacuum or at atmospheric pressure, under heating or at room temperature or even cold.

[0039] Advantageously, the extraction operation can be repeated at least once, preferably twice, on the solid residues resulting from the centrifugation or filtration operation previously indicated. The operation of evaporating the supernatant or filtrate is then carried out once again. The supernatants or filtrates obtained during the steps of recovering the solid residues can be combined and a new evaporation can be carried out to recover a maximum of non-solubilized solid residue. This dry extract of residue, itself obtained from the residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, is therefore advantageously an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic extract. A first form of the ingredient of the invention is then obtained.

[0040] Finally, if we wish to obtain the ingredient in powder form, we can proceed to form it by grinding the dry extract resulting from the extraction operations, separation of solid residues and evaporation.

[0041] The ingredient of the invention exhibits healing and anti-inflammatory properties, as demonstrated in Examples 2, 3, 4 and 5. In the field of cosmetics, healing properties are generally associated with skin repair and regeneration properties, the regeneration process cutaneous to ensure the restructuring of the integrity and functions of affected tissues.

[0042] Also, the ingredient of the invention comprises at least one Canarium extract, said extract is a non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate. Preferably, the fraction comprises at least one triterpene, more preferably a mixture of triterpenes. When the fraction constituting the extract and therefore the ingredient according to the invention comprises a mixture of triterpenes, this mainly comprises neutral and / or acid triterpenes, mainly lanosterol, (3-amyrin and α-amyrin for the neutral triterpenes, and elemolic acid, elemonic acid and tsugaric acid for the acid triterpenes.

[0043] Also, according to an object of the invention, the active ingredient according to the invention comprises or consists of a fraction comprising at least one neutral triterpene chosen from lanosterol, (3-amyrin, α-amyrin, and their combination.

[0044] According to an object, the fraction comprises at least lanosterol and its content is at least equal to 55 milligrams per gram of ingredient or otherwise expressed, at least equal to 5.5% by mass.

[0045] Where the ingredient includes (3-amyrin), it has a (3-amyrin) content of at least 85 milligrams per gram.

[0046] Where the ingredient includes α-amyrin, it has an α-amyrin content of at least 215 milligrams per gram.

[0047] As demonstrated in Example 3, neutral triterpenes play a role in the healing properties of the ingredient of the invention.

[0048] However, as demonstrated in Example 5, acidic triterpenes also play a role in the healing properties of the ingredient of the invention.

[0049] Therefore, according to another object of the invention, the active ingredient according to the invention comprises or consists of a fraction comprising at least one acid triterpene chosen from elemolic acid, [3-elemonic acid, tsugaric acid A, and their combination.

[0050] Where the ingredient includes elemolic acid, it has an elemolic acid content of at least 20 milligrams per gram.

[0051] Where the ingredient includes [3-elemonic acid, it has a [3-elemolic acid] content of at least 45 milligrams per gram.

[0052] Where the ingredient includes tsugaric acid A, it has a tsugaric acid A content of at least 25 milligrams per gram.

[0053] The triterpene mixture may also include at least one other minor triterpene selected from lupeol, uvaol, erythrodiol, ursolic acid, oleanic acid, and a combination thereof.

[0054] Thus, when the fraction comprises at least one neutral triterpene; this is advantageously chosen from lanosterol, (3-amyrin, α-amyrin, lupeol, uvaol, erythrodiol and their combination. Very advantageously, the fraction comprises at least two, or at least three, or at least four, or at least five or at least six neutral triterpenes chosen from lanosterol, (3-amyrin, α-amyrin, lupeol, uvaol, and erythrodiol.

[0055] When the fraction comprises at least one acidic triterpene, this is advantageously chosen from elemolic acid, [3-elemonic acid, tsugaric acid A, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid and their combination. Very advantageously, the fraction comprises at least two, or at least three, or at least four, or at least five acidic triterpenes chosen from elemolic acid, [3-elemonic acid, tsugaric acid A, ursolic acid, and oleanolic acid.

[0056] It emerges that the non-volatile fraction of Canarium exudate, i.e. an extract of Canarium exudate, in particular all of the molecules constituting the extract from Canarium exudate, gives the cosmetic ingredient its properties for combating inflammation, acne, excess sebum and blackheads, but also for improving healing and skin regeneration, as demonstrated in Examples 1 to 6.

[0057] Advantageously, the neutral and acidic triterpenes in the ingredient are not classified as irritant or allergenic according to EC Regulation 1272 / 2008.

[0058] Advantageously, to give the ingredient of the invention optimal properties, the extract constituting it is the non-volatile fraction of exudate from the species Canarium schweinfurthii.

[0059] Preferably, said fraction is an extract of the residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii, more preferably, said extract is an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic extract.

[0060] Finally, in a particularly advantageous manner, the active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: • hydrodistillation or steam distillation of the exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii, and • obtaining a hydrodistillation or vapodistillation residue forming the non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii, and • extraction of the non-volatile fraction obtained with solvent, said solvent being a preferably volatile solvent, and • extraction of the non-volatile fraction obtained with solvent, said solvent being a polar solvent other than water, or non-polar, preferably the solvent extraction is carried out at least twice, more preferably three times.

[0061] The method may further comprise an additional step of removing the solvent, if it is volatile, for example by evaporation under vacuum.

[0062] The active ingredient according to the invention can be presented in several forms, in particular in solid form, in particular in powder form.

[0063] When in solid form, the active ingredient according to the invention preferably consists exclusively of the fraction corresponding to the residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, in particular Canarium schweinfurthii. Preservatives or stabilizers may be added to facilitate the conservation and use of this active ingredient. In addition, residual traces of water or extraction solvent may remain.

[0064] Alternatively, the active ingredient may solubilize in an oil phase or a non-polar solvent for use in liquid form.

[0065] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the ingredient of the invention and presented in a form suitable for topical application (Example 7). In particular, the active ingredient according to the invention is preferentially used in compositions, comprising a cosmetically / dermatologically acceptable medium. These are compositions in different galenic forms, suitable for topical application to the skin.

[0066] These compositions may be presented in particular in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water / Oil / Water or Oil / Water / Oil) which may possibly be microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels or powders. They may be more or less fluid. and have the appearance of creams, balms, emulsions, gels, milks, cleansing oils or any other aspect of skin care cosmetic formulation.

[0067] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight of the active ingredient according to the invention.

[0068] These compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause unacceptable sensations of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

[0069] The compositions according to the invention may contain as adjuvant at least one compound chosen from oils, waxes, surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, colorants, preservatives, fillers, perfumes and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).

[0071] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not significantly, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0072] These compositions are in particular intended to be used to improve the quality of the skin, in particular to prevent and / or fight against acne, prevent and / or fight against blackheads, prevent and / or fight against inflammation, prevent and / or fight against excess sebum, improve skin healing.

[0073] Thus, the active ingredient and the compositions according to the invention are particularly effective for topical treatment of the skin and in particular for an anti-inflammatory effect, including skin disorders linked to inflammation, in particular psoriasis or eczema.

[0074] The active ingredient and the composition according to the invention are also of particular interest for improving healing, repair, regeneration of the skin, as demonstrated in the examples. Also, the active ingredient according to the invention has interesting healing properties.

[0075] The invention therefore also relates to an active ingredient according to the invention or a composition including it for its use for its effects healing on the skin, for its anti-inflammatory effects, in particular to combat inflammation of skin cells and / or sebocytes.

[0076] According to another object, the active ingredient and the composition according to the invention are also useful for preventing or treating acne, but also for combating excess sebum secretion. Also, the invention also relates to a cosmetic use of the ingredient according to the invention for combating excess sebum secretion, including its consequences, in particular without however being limited to the appearance of blackheads. These spots, due in particular to excess sebum and its oxidation, appear mainly on the face and scalp, in an unsightly manner.

[0077] Thus, the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to the invention or of the composition including it, by topical application, to combat blackheads, but also to treat them. Also, the invention also relates to the use of the ingredient for its purifying, mattifying, soothing, detoxifying, protective, sebum-regulating, anti-blemish, anti-redness, anti-irritant and anti-itching effects.

[0078] The ingredient according to the invention is thus particularly intended for sensitive skin, in particular atopic, irritated, weakened and reactive skin.

[0079] According to a final aspect, the process for extracting the extract constituting or contained in the active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any process comprising at least one step of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of the exudate of Canarium, such as Canarium luzonicum, Canarium madagascariense, or Canarium schweinfurthii, in particular Canarium schweinfurthii, and recovery of the non-volatile fraction, followed by extraction of the non-volatile fraction obtained with a solvent, said solvent being a polar solvent other than water, or non-polar.

[0080] According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the active ingredient according to the invention is therefore obtained by implementing the following steps: • hydrodistillation or steam distillation of the exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii, and • obtaining a hydrodistillation or vapodistillation residue forming the non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii, and • extraction of the non-volatile fraction obtained with solvent, said solvent being a preferably volatile solvent, and • collection of solid residues by filtration or centrifugation, and • evaporation of the filtrate or supernatant if the solvent used is volatile to produce an active ingredient powder.

[0081] The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of extracts and compositions according to the invention and by results. Example 1: Process for the preparation of a non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii exudate

[0082] Hydrodistillation:

[0083] The exudate, or oleoresin of Canarium schweinfurthii, which has been previously collected after non-destructive incision, is placed at -20°C and broken into pieces. The pieces of exudate are introduced into the curcubite basket of the still. Demineralized water is added to the curcubite until the exudate is covered. The water is then brought to a boil, which is maintained for a hydrodistillation period of 8 hours.

[0084] The residual water present in the cucurbit is then drained and the basket containing the hydrodistillation residue is discharged and then cooled to room temperature for solidification of the residue. The solid residue is then recovered.

[0085] The residue is roughly crushed, the residual moisture is removed by drying at 40°C for 12 hours and finally grinding is carried out until a residue powder is obtained.

[0086] Solvent extraction:

[0087] The solvent extraction of the residue powder thus obtained is carried out by contacting it with 96° ethanol in a ratio of 1 gram of powder to 4 milliliters of ethanol. The reaction medium is stirred at a speed of 500 rotations per minute for 45 minutes at room temperature.

[0088] The medium is then centrifuged for 20 minutes at 4,400 rpm. The supernatant is then removed and evaporated under vacuum at a pressure below 60 mbar at 25°C to obtain a dry extract.

[0089] The extraction, centrifugation and solvent removal operations are repeated twice.

[0090] Finally, the dry extract is ground to obtain the ingredient of the invention in powder form. Example 2: Composition and anti-inflammatory and healing properties of the ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii exudate

[0091] The powdered ingredient obtained in Example 1 was analyzed. The identification of its major compounds and their quantification were carried out by gas and liquid chromatography, combined with mass spectrometry and UV-visible detection. The major compounds of the ingredient and their mass content are shown in Table 1 below. [Table 1 ] Table 1: Triterpene composition of the ingredient

[0092] Highlighting the healing effect

[0093] The tests are conducted by measuring the ability of a population of monolayer cells cultured in the absence and presence of the ingredient to close an artificial wound made by scratching (scratch technique). This technique manually creates an artificial cell-free space in a cell monolayer. The ability of the cells to fill this space is then assessed by monitoring the evolution of the wound surface.

[0094] Four solutions are tested. Each of them is obtained by diluting in a culture medium and obtaining a final concentration of 1% ethanol. The control solution does not contain the ingredient. The second, third and fourth solutions differ in the concentration of the ingredient (respectively 1.4 pg / ml, 3.5 pg / ml and 7.0 pg / ml).

[0095] At 0D (Day 0), an artificial wound is created by scraping the cell mat. After washing to remove cell debris, the samples receive DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium) test medium containing one of the tested solutions (ethanol control, solution 1, solution 2 or solution 3). For each wound, a specific area is selected using an inverted microscope and recorded after image capture using a camera. After image acquisition and recording, the cultures are returned to the incubator and incubated at 37°C for 2 to 3 days. The media are renewed every day after twice-daily measurement of the wounds using an image analysis system.

[0096] The tests are carried out on HaCat human epidermal keratinocytes. The tested solutions are introduced into contact with the epidermal cells immediately after the formation of superficial wounds.

[0097] For each sample, the wound surface area is measured by image analysis at D0, D1 and D2, giving results at T1 (8h), T2 (24h), T3 (32h) and T4 (48h) respectively. The wound surface area at the different times T1, T2, T3 and T4 is evaluated as a percentage of the initial surface area of ​​the wound considered (i.e. 100% at T0). An associated healing percentage is also evaluated.

[0098] The results are presented in Table 2 below. [Table 2] *Wound surface area expressed as a % of the initial surface area of ​​the wound considered **Percentage of healing Table 2: Results of healing activity of the ingredient of the invention according to three different concentrations

[0099] There is a substantial increase in the healing kinetics of wounds to which solutions containing are applied the ingredient of the invention in comparison with the ethanol control. The healing effect is comparable for the three solutions 1, 2 and 3. The differences recorded at times T2 and T3 for the three solutions 1, 2 and 3 are statistically significant compared to the ethanol control. Solutions 1, 2 and 3 ensure complete closure of the artificial wound at T3 (32h).

[0100] These results show that the ingredient of the invention has a notable healing effect and is therefore capable of significantly increasing the kinetics of skin repair.

[0101] Highlighting the anti-inflammatory effect

[0102] This test assesses the production of inflammatory mediators by human keratinocytes in response to irritative stress. The method is based on measuring the rate of interleukin 6 (IL-6) release by keratinocytes cultured in the presence of the ingredient and stimulated by UV.

[0103] Five solutions are tested. Each of them is obtained by diluting in a culture medium and obtaining a final concentration of 1% ethanol. The control solution does not contain the ingredient. The second, third and fourth solutions differ in the concentration of the final residue (respectively 1.4 pg / ml, 3.5 pg / ml and 7.0 pg / ml). The fifth solution is dexamethasone (Dexa) (SIGMA Ref D1756) which is tested at 100 pM as a positive control.

[0104] At D0, 48 hours after seeding, the cells were rinsed with phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) and then exposed to UVB through PBS. Immediately after irradiation, the PBS was replaced with DMEM (Dulbecco's modified Eagle's medium) test medium containing the test solution. The cells were returned to 37°C and incubated for 24 hours.

[0105] At D1 (T 24h), the incubation media are collected and the IL-6 level is measured with the ELISA assay kit (IL-6 HIGH SENSITIVITY ELISA KIT, ENZO). At the same time, the corresponding cell lawns are rinsed with Hank's balanced salt solution (HBSS) and processed for cellular protein assay. A NaOH solution is added to each sample. After incubation, the cell extracts are collected and then frozen at -20°C pending assay with the assay kit (BC Protein Assay - PIERCE®).

[0106] Crude IL-6 levels (pg per sample) are interpolated from the standard curve established with the IL-6 standard in the kit. The mean IL-6 levels are calculated in each sample.

[0107] The protein level (pg per sample) is deduced by interpolation from the standard curve established with a bovine serum albumin standard in order to express the IL-6 level relative to the average protein level. The average of the levels is calculated in each sample.

[0108] The mean IL-6 level is reported as the mean protein level. The final values ​​are expressed in pg / mg.prot. and as percentages relative to the percentage of IL-6 induced in the ethanol control. The results are presented in Table 3 below. [Table 3] Table 3: Results of anti-inflammatory activity of the ingredient of the invention according to three different application concentrations

[0109] The IL-6 levels recorded for the solutions containing the ingredient of the invention are significantly lower than the IL-6 level recorded for the ethanol control. The observed differences are statistically significant. It is also noted that the results are dependent on the ingredient concentration. Under the same experimental conditions, the Dexa sample inhibits the release of IL-6 induced by UVs by 92%, which confirms the good reactivity of the system and validates these tests.

[0110] It is thus demonstrated that the ingredient of the invention has a notable anti-inflammatory effect with regard to, at least, the production of IL-6. Example 3: Healing properties of neutral triterpenes extracted from the ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii exudate

[0111] A neutral triterpene-rich extract of the ingredient obtained in Example 1 is prepared by separation of the ingredient on silica gel using open column liquid chromatography, followed by evaporation of the neutral triterpene-rich fraction. The triterpene composition of the extract thus obtained is shown in Table 4 below. [Table 4] Table 4: Triterpene composition of the neutral triterpene-rich extract of the ingredient.

[0112] Highlighting the healing effect

[0113] The tests are conducted in the same way as explained in example 2.

[0114] The results are presented in Table 5 below. [Table 5] *Wound surface area expressed as a % of the initial surface area of ​​the wound considered **Percentage of healing Table 5: Healing activity results of the neutral triterpene-rich extract of the ingredient of the invention according to three different application concentrations

[0115] An increase in the healing kinetics of wounds to which the solutions containing the ingredient of the invention are applied is also observed; however, this effect is less marked than with the fraction according to Example 2. The healing effect is dependent on the concentration of the solutions used. The differences recorded at times T2, in particular for solutions 2 and 3, and T3 for the three solutions are statistically significant compared to the ethanol control. Solutions 1, 2 and 3 also ensure complete closure of the artificial wound at T4 (48 hours).

[0116] These results show that the neutral triterpenes of the active agent of the invention participate in the healing effect of the ingredient, however, the effectiveness is less marked compared to the fraction according to example 2 demonstrating that the neutral triterpenes are not solely responsible for the healing effect of the ingredient according to the invention.

[0117] Example 4: Comparison of the healing properties of the ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii and the ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of an exudate residue of Canarium luzonicum

[0118] The ingredient in powder form from the exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii is obtained according to example 1 and the ingredient in powder form from the exudate of Canarium luzonicum is obtained according to the same operating conditions as those of example 1 from an exudate of Canarium luzonicum.

[0119] The triterpene composition of the two ingredients is shown in Table 6 below, along with the variability results obtained from a plurality of ingredient samples. [Table 6] Table 6: Triterpene composition of ingredients from Canarium schweinfurthii and Canarium luzonicum

[0120] Comparison of the healing effect

[0121] The tests are carried out on the two ingredients in the same way as explained in example 2.

[0122] The results are presented in Table 7 below, are from tests on three wounds and are expressed as percentage healing. [Table 7] CS*: Canarium schweinfurthii CL*: Canarium luzonicum Table 7: Comparison of the healing activity results of the ingredients derived from exudates of Canarium schweinfurthii and Canarium luzonicum respectively according to two different application concentrations

[0123] If solutions 1 and 2 from Canarium schweinfurthii and Canarium luzonicum ensure complete closure of the artificial wound at most at T3 (48h), we observe significantly higher healing kinetics for the exudate residue from Canarium schweinfurthii for which, and for the two concentrations tested, healing is 100% at T2 while it is, respectively and for the same time, 86% and 80% for the exudate residue from Canarium luzonicum. Also, the botanical origin plays a preponderant role in the effectiveness of the ingredient according to the invention, in particular for the healing properties.

[0124] As a result, the ingredient from the non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii exudate has greater healing properties than the ingredient from the non-volatile fraction of Canarium luzonicum exudate.

[0125] Example 5: Healing properties of acid triterpenes extracted from the ingredient derived from a non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii exudate

[0126] An acid triterpene-rich extract of the ingredient obtained in Example 1 is also prepared by separating the ingredient on silica gel using open column liquid chromatography, followed by evaporation of the acid triterpene-rich fraction. The triterpene composition of the extract thus obtained is shown in Table 8 below. [Table 8] Table 8: Triterpene composition of the acid triterpene-rich extract of the ingredient.

[0127] Highlighting the healing effect

[0128] The tests are conducted in the same way as explained in example 2.

[0129] The results are presented in Table 9 below. [Table 9] 'Wound surface area expressed as a % of the initial surface area of ​​the wound considered “Percentage of healing Table 8: Healing activity results of the acid triterpene-rich extract of the ingredient of the invention according to three different application concentrations

[0130] It is observed that the treatment of cells with the ingredient according to example 5, in the range of concentrations tested (between 0.7 and 3.5 pg / ml) makes it possible to accelerate and stimulate wound healing very significantly.

[0131] These results also show that acidic triterpenes participate in the healing effect of the ingredient according to the invention, demonstrating again that neutral triterpenes are not solely responsible for the healing effect of the ingredient according to the invention.

[0132] Also, these results confirm that the healing effect of the ingredient is linked to the intrinsic characteristics of the extract comprising the fraction from the residue of hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of Canarium exudate, in particular to the mixture of molecules constituting the extract, including, but not limited to, acid triterpenes and neutral triterpenes.

[0133] Example 6: Anti-sebum effects of the ingredient comprising a non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii exudate on human sebocytes

[0134] This test aims to study the anti-sebum effect of the ingredient according to the invention through an in vitro cell model. An extract is prepared according to Example 2.

[0135] The protocol is as follows. Human PCi-SEB sebocytes derived from induced pluripotent stem (iPS) cells are prepared. The amplification and maturation of PCI-SEB sebocytes is carried out by incubation in SEB medium for amplification for 2 days and then in supplemented SEB medium for maturation for 3 days. The sebocytes are incubated for 24 hours in the presence of the ingredient according to the invention. Lipogenesis is induced by the addition of linoleic acid, then the sebocytes are incubated for 48 hours in the presence of the ingredient according to the invention.

[0136] To verify the effectiveness, the following biomarkers are measured: intracellular neutral lipids (Nile Red test) and cellular proteins (BCA Pierce test).

[0137] The experimental plan is as follows: - 1 Batch (Control): untreated cells incubated in SEB medium (n=3) - 1 Batch (EtOH Control): untreated cells incubated in SEB medium + EtOH (0.125%)] (n=3) - 3 batches (EE Treated): cells incubated in medium (SEB + EtOH (0.125%) and treated with 3 concentrations of test element (n=3) - 1 batch [CP]: cells incubated in SEB medium and treated with TOFA (20pM)

[0138] The ingredient according to the invention was tested at 3 concentrations: C1 = 5pg / ml, C2 = 15pg / ml and C3 = 30pg / ml

[0139] Neutral lipid levels were measured in control sebocyte cultures and then treated by staining the cells with Nile Red. The values ​​(fluorescence intensity) were reported as the average cellular protein level.

[0140] The results are presented in Table 10 below. [Table 10] Table 10: Results on sebum regulation of the ingredient of the invention

[0141] [Nile-Red] values ​​are expressed in arbitrary units (fluorescence intensity (fRI) per mg of cellular protein).

[0142] The results show a clear decrease in the levels of intracellular neutral lipids in cells treated with the ingredient according to the invention. This inhibitory effect is dose-dependent in the range of concentrations tested and the differences recorded in batches C1 (-19%, p<0.05), C2 (-62%, p<0.01) and C3 (-78%, p<0.01) are statistically significant (Student's t-test) compared to the EtOH Control.

[0143] We then observe the very strong inhibitory potential of the ingredient according to the invention with regard to lipogenesis. Furthermore, at the highest dose tested, the anti-sebum effect of the ingredient according to the invention is equivalent to that of TOFA (20pM) thus demonstrating the anti-sebum properties and the ability of the ingredient according to the invention to fight against acne and blackheads.

[0144] Example 7: Cosmetic composition comprising the ingredient of the invention

[0145] An example of a cosmetic composition formulation is shown in Table 11 below. The name of each component as referenced in the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list is shown in the Table, along with the associated mass percentage. [Table 11] 'Ingredient of the invention prepared according to Example 1 Table 11: Formulation of the cosmetic composition of the invention

Claims

Tl CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract of Canarium schweinfurthii, characterized in that said extract is a non-volatile fraction of exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii.

2. Active ingredient according to claim 1, characterized in that the fraction comprises at least one triterpene.

3. Active ingredient according to claim 2, characterized in that the fraction comprises at least one neutral triterpene and / or at least one acidic triterpene.

4. Active ingredient according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the fraction comprises at least one neutral triterpene chosen from lanosterol, [3-amyrin, α-amyrin, lupeol, uvaol, erythrodiol and their combination.

5. Active ingredient according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the fraction comprises at least one acid triterpene chosen from elemolic acid, [3-elemonic acid, tsugaric acid A, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid and their combination.

6. Active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fraction is a residue from hydrodistillation or vapodistillation of exudate from Canarium schweinfurthii.

7. Active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fraction is an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic extract of the hydrodistillation or vapodistillation residue of Canarium schweinfurthii exudate.

8. Active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ingredient is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: - hydrodistillation or steam distillation in water of the exudate of Canarium schweinfurthii, - obtaining a hydrodistillation or vapodistillation residue forming the non-volatile fraction of Canarium schweinfurthii, and - extraction of the non-volatile fraction obtained with the solvent, said solvent being a polar solvent other than water, or non-polar, and - recovery of solid residues by filtration or centrifugation, and evaporation of the filtrate or supernatant and recovery of the active ingredient powder.

9. Ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the solvent extraction is carried out at least twice on the solid residues, preferably three times.

10. Active ingredient according to one of claims 1 to 9, for its use for its restorative effects on the skin.

11. Active ingredient according to one of claims 1 to 9, for its use for its anti-inflammatory effects.

12. Active ingredient according to the preceding claim, for use in combating inflammation of skin cells and / or sebocytes.

13. Active ingredient according to one of claims 1 to 9, for use on the skin to prevent and / or combat acne and / or combat excess sebum secretion.

14. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of an active ingredient according to one of claims 1 to 9.

15. Use of an ingredient according to one of claims 1 to 9, by topical application, to combat blackheads.

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