<smallcaps / >? ? ?jasminum grandiflorum l.? ? ? ? ?alcoholic extract of stems of jasmine, method for obtaining same, and cosmetic composition containing same

Abstract

The invention relates to an extract of stems of jasmine Jasminum grandiflorum L., a method for obtaining same, a cosmetic composition containing same, as well as different cosmetic uses.

Description

[0001] Alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., its production process, and cosmetic composition containing it The invention relates to an extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., its production process, a cosmetic composition containing it, as well as various cosmetic uses. Nowadays, pollution, particularly in urban environments, has become a health scourge and primarily affects the skin, the part most exposed to pollutants. Pollution is contamination of the indoor or outdoor environment by any chemical, physical or biological agent. Air pollution is composed of two main types of primary pollutants: particulate matter (PM), commonly called fine particles (PM 2.5 μm, PM 10 μm), and gases (O3, CO2, CO, SO2, NO2) or volatile organic compounds.Small particles are typically produced by combustion, and larger ones by mechanical processes that create and then suspend dust particles in the wind. Due to its critical location, the skin is a major interface between the body and the environment, providing a biological barrier against a range of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. The skin is a protective envelope, preventing the penetration of substances smaller than 20 nm to 200 nm. The surface layers of the skin form a physical, chemical, and immunological barrier against the entry of harmful environmental substances, including ambient particles, as well as pathogens and allergens.This barrier being intact, pollutants (mainly ozone) do not penetrate the skin, thus avoiding the disruption of biological mechanisms linked to inflammation, the immune response, water evaporation and the degradation of the extracellular matrix. The effects of pollution on the skin can manifest themselves in different ways, among which we can cite: - appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, pigmentation spots, - dull complexion, - dehydration of the skin, - excess sebum, - acne, - irritations on the skin. There is therefore a need to provide a multifunctional active agent capable of effectively combating the harmful effects of pollution, and of preserving and restoring the skin barrier function to maintain an optimal barrier function. However, the Applicant has now found that an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., obtained by a particular process, presents interesting activities to counteract the negative effects of pollution, in particular presents certain cosmetic properties in strengthening the skin barrier, hydration, remodeling of the skin matrix and protection against pollution. Indeed, as demonstrated in examples, the alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention counteracts the negative effect of pollution by stimulating the targets involved in the skin barrier function such as AQP1, CASP14, KRT1, KRT10, TGFb2 and FLG. In addition, the extract is able to improve the remodeling of the matrix structure by stimulating COL4A1, COL8A1, DPT and P4HA1. The invention therefore relates, according to a first aspect, to an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin and ursolic acid.The invention also relates, according to a second aspect, to a method for extracting jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising the following steps: a) crushing the jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground stems in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the filtrates from the extractions of step b), then filtering said mixture; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcoholic solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in an alcoholic solvent identical to the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); and g) optionally filtration of the extract obtained in step f).The invention also relates to an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., obtainable by such a method. The invention further relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention. By cosmetically acceptable vehicle is meant a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and integuments. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application. The alcoholic extract which is the subject of the invention is derived from stems, or from vine shoots or branches of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L. Preferably, dried jasmine stems are used. These dried jasmine stems are obtained from fresh stems which can be dehydrated either in the sun or under vacuum at a temperature of up to 60°C. Jasminum grandiflorum L.is a species of the genus Jasminum of the Oleaceae family, called the large-flowered jasmine, Spanish jasmine or Grasse jasmine. Jasminum grandiflorum appears as a shrub about 2 to 4 m high. The branches are green, glabrous and striated. The foliage is deciduous to semi-evergreen. Its flexible stems bear evergreen leaves and large white flowers. The inventors were interested in the jasmine stems obtained after harvesting the flowers, during the annual pruning in November-December, necessary for the development of the plant. This makes it possible in particular to valorize the by-products of the flower harvest. The dry extract of Jasminum grandiflorum L. which is the subject of the present invention is composed of several families of primary and secondary metabolites of interest. The alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., which is the subject of the present invention comprises in particular at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin and ursolic acid.In particular, the alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., of the invention comprises: - 1 to 10% by weight of oleuropein, preferably 5 to 7% by weight, - 0.1 to 1% by weight of isoquercitrin, preferably 0.3 to 0.5% by weight, and - 0.1 to 1% by weight of ursolic acid, preferably 0.5 to 0.7% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. Oleuropein is a compound corresponding to the following formula I:. Isoquercitrin is a compound with the following formula II: Ursolic acid is a compound with the following formula III: Preferably, said alcoholic extract of jasmine stems of the invention further comprises saccharides and / or mannitol, for example between 40 and 70% by weight of saccharides and / or mannitol, preferably 50 to 60% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. In particular, the alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., of the invention comprises: - 40 to 70% by weight of saccharides and / or mannitol, preferably 50 to 60% by weight, - 1 to 10% by weight of oleuropein, preferably 5 to 7% by weight, - 0.1 to 1% by weight of isoquercitrin, preferably 0.3 to 0.5% by weight, and - 0.1 to 1% by weight of ursolic acid, preferably 0.5 to 0.7% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. The saccharides present in the jasmine stem extract according to the invention preferably comprise fructose, glucose, and / or sucrose, and in particular 2 to 5% by weight offructose, 20 to 25% by weight of glucose and / or 2 to 5% by weight of sucrose, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. Preferably, the jasmine stem extract according to the invention comprises 20 to 25% by weight of mannitol, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. It is to the Applicant's credit to have succeeded in preparing a jasmine stem extract comprising at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin and ursolic acid, which makes it specific. The invention which is the subject of the present application also relates to a process for extracting jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising the following steps: a) grinding the jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said crushed stems in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the resulting filtratesextractions from step b), then filtration of said mixture; d) concentration of the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcoholic solvent; e) addition of a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in an alcoholic solvent identical to the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); and g) optionally filtration of the extract obtained in step f). Preferably, the jasmine stems used in step a) are dried stems. These dried jasmine stems are obtained from fresh stems which can be dehydrated either in the sun or vacuum-packed ata temperature of up to 60°C. They are in particular crushed or reduced to pieces, for example to a fineness of less than 2 cm, by any means known to those skilled in the art. In step b), the crushed jasmine stems are subjected to at least one, preferably at least two extractions by one or more alcoholic solvents, i.e., first alcoholic solvent, chosen from C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as for example methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol. Preferably, the first alcoholic solvent of step b) is a monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol. In particular, the ethanol is used in a 96% mixture with water. Extraction is usually carried out by immersing and gently agitating the jasmine stems in one or more of the solvents mentioned above for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 2 and 4 hours, at a temperature between50°C and 70°C, preferably between 55 and 65°C. Preferably, the jasmine stems are extracted in ethanol with a 1 / 10 ratio by mass of jasmine stems relative to the mass of ethanol. Extraction step b) is followed by filtration, for example on a 100µm filtration membrane, to remove plant residues. According to a preferred embodiment, step b) involves at least two extractions. In this case, each extraction is followed by a filtration step. Preferably, the first extraction is carried out for a period of 4 hours at a temperature of 60°C, and the second extraction is carried out for a period of 2 hours at a temperature of 60°C. At the end of extraction step(s) b), the liquid filtrates are recovered and mixed. In step c), the filtrate or mixture of filtrates from the extractions of step b) is then filtered again in order to remove the insoluble substances, preferably on a 15 µm filtration membrane.thus obtains a liquid filtrate. Preferably, between steps c) and d), a step of decolorizing the mixture obtained in c) is added. The decolorization can be carried out by adsorption of the pigments present in the filtrate on activated carbon. Preferably, the activated carbon represents 40% by mass relative to the dry matter of the extract. This decolorization step can be followed by a step of filtration of the decolorized filtrate obtained, preferably on a 4µm filtration membrane, in order to remove the loaded activated carbon. In step d), the mixture obtained in step c) is concentrated to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcoholic solvent. Preferably, the concentrated extract obtained in step d) has a dry matter content of between 10% and 11%. Preferably, the concentration of step d) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by partial evaporation under reduced pressure, for exampleby means of a rotary evaporator or a scraped film evaporator. In step e), a second alcoholic solvent is then added to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%. The second alcoholic solvent of step e) may be chosen from C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as for example methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol; polyols, in particular diols, such as for example propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or dipropylene glycol, or triols such as glycerin. Preferably, the second alcoholic solvent of step e) is a polyol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanediol. Even more preferably, the first alcoholic solvent of step b) is a monoalcoholcomprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol, and the second alcoholic solvent of steps e) and f) is a polyol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanediol. Preferably, the removal of the first alcoholic solvent of step e) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by total evaporation under reduced pressure, for example using a scraped film evaporator. In particular, in step e), the second alcoholic solvent is added in proportions corresponding to between 5 and 7 times, preferably 6 times, the mass of the dry extract of the filtrate obtained in step d). Finally, in step f), the extract obtained in step e) is diluted in an alcoholic solvent identical to the second alcoholic solvent used in step e) and defined above, preferably a polyol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanediol. Preferably, the extract obtained in step f) has a dry matter contentbetween 9.5% and 10.5%, preferably 10%. Optionally, in step g), the extract obtained in step f) is filtered, preferably on a 4µm filtration membrane. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, between steps d) and e), a step of storing and cooling the concentrated extract obtained in step d) is added, preferably at a temperature of 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 40µm filtration membrane, and / or (ii) between steps e) and f), a step of storing and cooling the extract obtained in step e) is added, preferably at a temperature of 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 15µm filtration membrane. Preferably, the alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention is capable of being obtained by the process described above comprising the following steps: a) grinding the stemsof jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said crushed stems in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the filtrates from the extractions of step b), then filtering said mixture; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcoholic solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in an alcoholic solvent identical to the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); and g) optionally thefiltration of the extract obtained in step f). Advantageously, the extract used according to the invention is light in color. Also, said extract is in a sufficiently concentrated form to be able to be used without causing the formulation problems usually encountered at the concentrations necessary to obtain activity in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the form of an emulsion, and without having a dark color, unlike plant extracts obtained by usual methods, when they are in concentrated form. In particular, after evaporation of the ethanol, the extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprises 5 to 15% by weight of dry jasmine extract and 85 to 95% by weight of 1,3-propanediol, and preferably, approximately 10% by weight of dry jasmine extract and 90% by weight of 1,3-propanediol. Therefore, the extract according to the invention can be used directly for the preparation of a cosmetic composition. According to aAccording to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention, for protecting the skin against the harmful effects of pollution, for example against a mixture of pollutants composed of extracts of cigarette smoke and urban dust. According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention, for improving the remodeling of the matrix structure. According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention, for improving the skin barrier function and / or the hydration of the skin. Indeed, advantageously, it has been found that the alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention counteracts the negative effect of pollution by stimulating the targetsinvolved in the skin barrier function such as AQP1, CASP14, KRT1, KRT10, TGFb2 and FLG. In particular, it has been advantageously found that the alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention makes it possible to improve the remodeling of the matrix structure by stimulating COL4A1, COL8A1, DPT and P4HA1. The invention also relates, according to yet another aspect, to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention. Preferably, said extract is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight. Said cosmetic composition may in particular be adapted for topical application. Advantageously, said cosmetic composition may be presented in the form ofthe form of a powder, an emulsion, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a suspension, a solution, a lotion, a cream, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, a mousse, a serum, an aerosol solution or dispersion, or a dispersion of lipid vesicles. In the case of an emulsion, it may be a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, preferably for the face. In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging skin care composition, in particular for the face. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a facial makeup composition, in particular in the form of a foundation, a foundation base or a tinted cream. The cosmetic composition according tothe invention may also comprise a solvent chosen according to the different ingredients and the form of administration. As examples, mention may be made of water (preferably demineralized water or floral waters), an alcohol such as ethanol. Said cosmetic composition may also comprise, in addition to the extract according to the invention, at least one additive customary in the field, such as for example at least one compound chosen from an emollient or humectant agent, a gelling and / or thickening agent, a surfactant, an oil, an active agent, a colorant, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a sunscreen and a perfume. - One or more humectant(s), such as polyols (glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters; andpolyquaterniums. Said humectant will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.005 to 10% by total weight of the composition. - One or more emollient agent(s) which may be chosen for example from esters such as jojoba esters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Isostearyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butter (butyrospernum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl esters) or moringa butter (moringa oil / hydrogenated moringa oil esters), waxes (acacia decurrens flower wax & helianthus annuus cera seed wax, C10-18 triglycerides), vegetable oils, phytosqualane, alkanes (undecane, tridecane). Said emollient agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by total weight of the composition. - One or more gelling agent(s)and / or thickener(s) of the aqueous phase, chosen for example from cellulose derivatives, gums of plant origin (guar, carob, alginates, carrageenans, pectins), of microbial origin (xanthan), clays (laponite), homo- and copolymers, crosslinked or not, hydrophilic or amphiphilic, of acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (such as Ammonium AMP / VP Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate). Said gelling and / or thickening agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition. - One or more surfactant(s), in particular: *anionic surfactants such as isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates,glycinates, glutamates, phosphates such as C20-22 alkyl phosphate. * amphoteric surfactants such as betaine derivatives, amphoacetates. * non-ionic surfactants such as polyglycerol derivatives, glucoside derivatives (such as cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), xyloside derivatives, lecithins. Said surfactant will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - One or more film-forming agent(s) such as polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii, andtheir mixtures. Said film-forming agent will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - One or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. The mineral pigments may be chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, titanium dioxide. The pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Said coloring agent will be present in a content of the order of 0.01 to 20%, preferably 2 to 15% inweight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - One or more filler(s) chosen from lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride and silica. Said filler will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - One or more active agent(s) of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin having biological activity and having effectiveness on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (glycyrrhizaglabra extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, secale cereale seed extract), yeast extracts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic ester, etc. Said active agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition. Other additives usually used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular preservatives, antioxidant agents or perfumes well known in the technical field. A person skilled in the art is able to choose, from all of these possible additives, both the nature and the quantity of those which will be added to the composition, so that the latter retains all of its properties. The invention is illustrated in a non-limiting manner by the examples below. Example 1: Preparation of an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminumgrandiflorum L., according to the invention ^ An alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention was prepared by a process comprising the following steps: 1 kg of fresh branches were dried by dehydrating them either in the sun or under vacuum at a temperature up to 60°C, and then were coarsely ground. The branches were extracted in 10 kg of 96° ethanol with stirring at 60°C for 4 h; ^ The mixture was sieved at 100 µm to recover the spent grains and the extract was set aside; ^ The spent grains were again extracted in 8 kg of 96° ethanol with stirring at 60°C for 2 h; ^ The spent ground branches were removed by solid / liquid separation and the liquid fractions were pooled and then filtered at 15 µm; ^ The ethanolic fraction was decolorized with 140g of activated carbon (40% by mass relative to the dry matter of the extract) with stirring for 3h at room temperature; ^ The activated carbon waswas then removed by filtration at 4 µm; ^ The ethanolic extract was concentrated by evaporation of the ethanol using a rotary evaporator or a falling-flow evaporator to obtain a concentrated extract with a dry matter content of between 10% and 11%; ^ The whole was stored at 4°C for several days; ^ The solid phase was removed by filtration at 40 µm; ^ The dry matter measurement was carried out on the extract and contained 61 g of dry extract; ^ Six times the mass of extract in propanediol, i.e. 368 g, was added. The ethanol was completely evaporated using a scraped-film evaporator (final ethanol concentration less than 0.5%); ^ The extract was left overnight at 4°C and filtered at 15 µm; ^ 367 g of propanediol was added so that the dry extract was concentrated to 10%; ^ A final filtration at 4 µm was carried out; ^ 780 g of final extract were obtained. Example 2: Modulations of the expression of genes involved in skin barrier function and remodelingof the matrix in skin explants stressed by a mixture of pollutants and treated with jasmine stem extract. Protocol: Skin explants from 3 different donors were delivered on day 0 and two technical replicates for each condition were performed. An Alamar blue assay was performed to test the cytotoxicity of jasmine stem extract. Therefore, an amount of 50 μL at a non-cytotoxic concentration of 0.01% or 0.05% of the final extract obtained in Example 1 was added on top of the skin for 1 hour, and a cotton swab (with parafilm) was used to gently massage the explant. In the control condition, PBS (phosphate buffer saline) was used and applied in the same way to the skin explants. In addition, the extract was also introduced into the culture medium (systemic application) at the concentrations already mentioned. After 1 hour, the overflow was removed. The same protocol was carried out on day 3(renewal with fresh extract) where a pollutant mixture, composed of cigarette smoke and urban dust extracts, was used to induce stress for 6h. At the end of the stress period (6h), each skin explant was removed from the insert and placed in the lysis tube to extract RNAs using the Qiazol RNA Purification Kit and GeneJEt according to the supplier's instructions. Reverse transcription and real-time PCR were then performed to quantify the modulation of gene expression. The mRNA expression level was normalized to the following reference genes: YWHAZ, GAPDH, HPRT, β-Actin and RPL13. The results are expressed as the induction threshold compared to the PBS control condition and the pollution mixture condition without jasmine stem extract treatment (stress control) and are obtained using the ΔΔCt method where the Ct corresponds to the number of cycles required to generate afluorescent signal above the predefined threshold (the more targets, the fewer cycles are required to reach this threshold). The main interest was focused on genes in the Ct<20 category. Results: Application of a mixture of pollutants (stress control) to normal skin showed a decrease in the expression of genes involved in various skin mechanisms such as barrier function, or matrix remodeling compared to the PBS control condition (Table II). Jasmine stem extract counteracts the negative effect of pollution by stimulating targets involved in skin barrier function such as AQP1, CASP14, KRT1, KRT10, TGFb2 and FLG, as well as targets involved in matrix structure remodeling by stimulating COL4A1, COL8A1, DPT and P4HA1. The thresholds for induction of gene expression are defined in Table I. The functional definition and classification of the genes modulated abovementioned are described in Table III. Table I: Threshold for induction of gene expression. 1 to 4 x1 to x4 Stimulation of gene expression 0.8 to 1.2 0.8x to 1.2x Modulation of gene expression not significant 0.8 to 0.65 / 1.2 to / 2 Inhibition of gene expression

[0002] Table II: List of genetic expressions modulated by the mixture of pollutants at 6 hours after stress, with or without treatment with jasmine stem extract. Expression level Name of Expression level compared to control conditions compared to Symbol genes PBS control conditions of pollutant mixture Don1 + Don2 + mixture of pollutants Don3 + + 0.05% + 0.01% pollutants pollutants pollutant mixture extract extract AQP1 aquaporin 1 0.79 0.50 0.92 1.66 2.15 CASP14 caspase 14 0.67 0.78 0.76 1.27 1.47 collagen type COL4A1 IV alpha 1 0.84 0.59 0.96 1.37 1.23 collagen type COL8A1 VIII alpha 1 chain 0.77 0.94 0.88 1.68 1.76 DPT dermatopontin 0.70 0.71 0.93 1.29 1.13 FLG filaggrin 0.60 0.68 0.80 1.54 1.79 KRT1 keratin 1 0.73 0.78 0.98 2.46 2.16 KRT10 keratin 10 0.76 0.82 0.96 2.87 2.58 prolyl 4- P4HA1 hydroxylase subunit alpha 1 0.71 0.62 0.88 1.40 1.47 transforming TGFb2 growth factor beta2 0.79 1.05 0.74 2.59 2.75

[0003] Table III: Functional definition and classification of modulated genes. GENES NAME FUNCTION FUNCTIONAL CLASSIFICATION AQP1 Aquaporin 1 Transmembrane proteins Hydration / involved in water transport Barrier Function CASP14 Caspase 14 Enzyme involved in the cleavage of Barrier Function profilaggrin to filaggrin FLG Filaggrin Major structural protein in Barrier Function terminal differentiation and the formation of horny envelopes in the stratum corneum KRT1 Keratin 1 Differentiation of simple and stratified epithelial tissues Barrier FunctionKRT10 Keratin 10 Proteins that form the filament Intermediate barrier function (cytoskeleton of epithelial cells) TGFb2 Transforming Cytokine involved in the barrier function growth factor differentiation and proliferation beta2 cell COL4A1 Collagen type IV Basement membrane protein Alpha 1 structure COL8A1 Collagen type VIII Basement membrane protein Alpha 1 chain structure DPT Dermatopontin Extracellular matrix protein Structure involved in cell-matrix interactions and matrix assembly P4HA1 Prolyl 4- Key enzyme in the synthesis of collagen subunit alpha 1 hydroxylase structure Conclusion: Thanks to its ability to counteract the negative effects of pollution, as shown in Table II, jasmine stem extract has certain cosmetic properties in strengthening the skin barrier, moisturizing, remodeling the skin matrix and protecting against pollution.Example 3: Cosmetic compositions The following compositions can be prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. The quantities indicated below are expressed as weight percentages. The ingredients in capital letters are identified in accordance with the INCI name. A – fluid oil / water emulsion INCI name (% W / W) Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil 1-10 Camellia oleifera seed oil 1-10 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 1-10 Dicaprylyl carbonate 1-5 Squalane 1-10 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 0.1-5 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer & 0.1-2 sorbitan isostearate & polysorbate 60 0.1-5 Polianthes tuberosa 0.01-5 Sodium pca 0.5-5 Saccharide isomerate 0.5-5 Jasmine stem extract according to the invention 0.001-10 Yeast extract 0.1-5 CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) & aluminum hydroxide & magnesium 1-10 chloride & sodium lauroyl glutamate & lysine CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) & mica & tin oxide 1-10 Kappaphycus alvarezii Extract & Caesalpinia spinosa Fruit Extract 0.1-5 Titanium dioxide & stearic acid & alumina 1-7 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1-3 Glycols (Caprylyl Glycol and / or Pentylene Glycol and / or Butylene Glycol 0,1-10 and / or propanediol) Water Qs 100 b – émulsion huile / eau crème Nom INCI (% w / w) Jojoba esters 1-5 Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil 0.1-5 Canola oil 1-10 Argania spinosa kernel oil 0.1-10 Moringa oil / hydrogenated moringa oil esters 1-10 C8-12 acid triglyceride 1-5 Lauroyl lysine 1-5 Camellia oleifera seed oil 1-10 Squalane 1-10 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vp copolymer 1-5 Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 1-7 Sodium lauroyl glutamate 0.1-1 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.1-5 Chondrus crispus (carrageenan) 0.1-5 Sclerotium gum 0,01-2 Centella asiatica leaf extract 0.1-5 Adenosine 0.1-0.5 Niacinamide 0.1-5 Secale cereale (rye) seed extract 0.1-5 Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 & palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 1-5 Plankton extract 0.1-5 Yeast extract 1-3 Jasmine stem extract according to the invention 0.001-10 Glycyrrhiza glabra extract 0.001-5 Tranexamic cetyl ester 0.001-5 Ascorbyl glucoside 0.001-5 Water Qs 100 These compositions can be applied every day, morning and / or evening, to the skin. Example 4: Composition of an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention The alcoholic extract of jasmine stems according to the invention comprises various families of primary and secondary metabolites. Among the primary metabolites, glucose, fructose, sucrose and mannitol were identified. Among the secondary metabolites, oleuropein, isoquercitrin and ursolic acid were identified (Table IV). Table IV: Composition of a final extract and a dry extract of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., as obtained in example 1 Family Molecule (% final extract) (% dry extract) Oleuropein Secoiridoides 0.6 6.7 (C. 25 H 32 O 13 ) Flavonoids Isoquercitrin 0.004 0.4 Pentacyclic triterpenoids Ursolic acid 0.1 0.6 (C 30 H 48 O3) Fructose 0.3 3.3 Sugars / Glucose 2.2 21.9 Polyols Sucrose 0.3 2.7 Mannitol 2.2 22.4 1,3-Propanediol solvent 90.0 / dilution Total 95.7 58.0

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin and ursolic acid.

2. Alcoholic extract of jasmine stems according to claim 1, comprising: - 40 to 70% by weight of saccharides and / or mannitol, preferably 50 to 60% by weight, - 1 to 10% by weight of oleuropein, preferably 5 to 7% by weight, - 0.1 to 1% by weight of isoquercitrin, preferably 0.3 to 0.5% by weight, and - 0.1 to 1% by weight of ursolic acid, preferably 0.5 to 0.7% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. 3.Alcoholic extract of jasmine stems according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the saccharides comprise fructose, glucose and / or sucrose, preferably 2 to 5% by weight of fructose, 20 to 25% by weight of glucose and / or 2 to 5% by weight of sucrose, and / or comprising 20 to 25% by weight of mannitol, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

4. A method for extracting jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising the following steps: a) grinding the jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said crushed stems in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the filtrates from the extractions of step b), then filtering said mixture; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcoholic solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained at. step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) the final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in an alcoholic solvent identical to the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); and g) optionally the filtration of the extract obtained in step f).

5. Process according to claim 4, characterized in that the extractions of step b) are carried out for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 2 and 4 hours, at a temperature of between 50°C and 70°C, preferably between 55 and 65°C. 6.Process according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the first alcoholic solvent of step b) is a monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol, and the second alcoholic solvent of steps e) and f) is a polyol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 1,3-propanediol.

7. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that, between steps c) and d), a step of decolorization of the mixture obtained in c) is added, preferably by adsorption on activated carbon, followed by a step of filtration of the decolorized filtrate obtained, preferably on a 4µm filtration membrane. 8.Process according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that the concentration of step d) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by partial evaporation under reduced pressure, and / or the removal of the first alcoholic solvent of step e) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by total evaporation under reduced pressure.

9. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that in step e), the second alcoholic solvent is added in proportions corresponding to between 5 and 7 times, preferably 6 times, the mass of the dry extract of the filtrate obtained in step d).

10. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 9, characterized in that: (i) between steps d) and e), a storage and cooling step is added. the concentrated extract obtained in step d), preferably at a temperature of 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 40µm filtration membrane, and / or (ii) between steps e) and f), a step of storing and cooling the extract obtained in step e), preferably at a temperature of 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 15µm filtration membrane, is added.

11. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 10, characterized in that: (i) each extraction of step b) is followed by filtration on a 100µm filtration membrane, and / or (ii) the filtration carried out in step c) is carried out on a 15µm filtration membrane, and / or (iii) the filtration carried out in step g) is carried out on a 4µm filtration membrane. 12.Process according to any one of claims 4 to 11, characterized in that: (i) the concentrated extract obtained in step d) has a dry matter content of between 10% and 11%, and / or (ii) the extract obtained in step f) has a dry matter content of between 9.5% and 10.5%, preferably 10%.

13. Alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., characterized in that it is obtainable by a process according to any one of claims 4 to 12.

14. Cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to any one of claims 1 to 3, for protecting the skin against the harmful effects of pollution, and / or improving the skin barrier function and hydration of the skin.

15. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of jasmine stems, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

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