Cosmetic composition in form of a stable suspension

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin and / or hair care and / or hygiene. Said composition contains a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant selected from among alaninates, lauryl glucoside and at least one amphoteric surfactant, as well as water, a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum and insoluble particles in a stable suspension in the composition. In addition, the composition contains no amidopropyl betaines and no surfactant with a sulfate group.

Description

[0001] COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A STABLE SUSPENSION Technical field of the invention

[0002] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition comprising particles in a stable suspended state and free from controversial substances, as well as the cosmetic use of such a composition for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair using such a composition.

[0003] Prior art

[0004] A cosmetic composition intended for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair must first and foremost be effective, i.e. cleansing, foaming and, where appropriate, detangling. Indeed, the main expectations of consumers are to have products that produce a lot of foam and, in the case of shampoos, which have a detangling effect on the hair.

[0005] In addition, the addition of insoluble particles to cosmetic compositions is common. These particles can have different functions. Some have the ability to include active ingredients, such as millicapsules. Others can make compositions more opaque, such as pearlescent bases, enhancing the aesthetic side of cosmetic products. Finally, some particles have exfoliating properties and are useful for exfoliating the skin, particularly the scalp. Cosmetic compositions that include exfoliating particles effectively remove dead skin, product residue, and excess sebum from the skin's surface. They are ideal for relieving scalp dandruff and itching, and thus help strengthen hair roots.

[0006] Whatever the function of the insoluble particles, their suspension in a stable and homogeneous manner in the composition is a prerequisite for obtaining cosmetic compositions that are easy to use and have a beautiful aesthetic appearance, as desired by consumers. However, obtaining cosmetic compositions comprising insoluble particles that are suspended therein in a homogeneous and stable manner (these are then referred to as "smooth" cosmetic compositions) proves difficult, because these particles tend not to remain in suspension but to accumulate at the bottom of the containers containing the cosmetic compositions, especially since the stabilization of the suspension of the insoluble particles must be achieved without harming the cleansing and foaming power of the composition.

[0007] Furthermore, the viscosity of cosmetic compositions must be adapted, by choosing appropriate components, to the desired packaging and distribution method. Cosmetic compositions can be packaged in tubes or pump bottles, which leads to constraints in terms of their viscosity, a formula that is too thick, for example, not being "pumpable". In addition, a formula that is too fluid will escape from the consumer's hands, and is not desirable, as it does not correspond to the organoleptic quality required for hygiene products.

[0008] Finally, it is highly desirable that cosmetic compositions include as little as possible, and preferably be free of, any controversial substances, as consumers are becoming increasingly vigilant regarding the composition of their cosmetic products. Thus, they are looking for products that are as free as possible from ingredients obtained by chemical synthesis, preferring ingredients of natural origin, known for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more respectful of the environment.

[0009] In this regard, many cosmetic compositions for body and hair applications proposed by the prior art include sulfated surfactants. These provide a particularly interesting foaming effect, giving the impression of washing gently. However, they are in reality very irritating to the skin, drying and allergenic. Similarly, the presence of certain amphoteric surfactants such as amidopropyl betaines, and in particular cocamidopropyl betaine, is suspected of causing certain intolerances such as skin irritations. Thus, for good skin tolerance, these ingredients must be used at low concentrations, with always a risk when addressing consumers with particularly marked skin sensitivity. It is therefore preferable to avoid them completely.The use of acrylate-based suspending agents, such as Carbopol® 1382 (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), as proposed by the prior art, is also criticized. Indeed, these acrylates are said to be the cause of certain allergic skin reactions, rhinoconjunctivitis and even asthma.

[0010] The document “Mild and Natural Shower Scrub” (Anonymous, November 25, 2019, available, subject to user account, at the following URL: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1599626.pdf?bs=77&b=1461460&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) describes a shower scrub composition based on exfoliating apricot seed powder, containing water, a surfactant blend, and the proprietary Arbalon™ R-50. The surfactant blend consists of sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and coco glucoside (INCI names).

[0011] The document "Moisturizing Flaky-free Scalp Shampoo" (Anonymous, January 27, 2022, available, subject to having a user account, at the url address: https: / / www.ulprospector.eom / documents / 1625184.pdf?bs=77&b=5268232&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) describes a shampoo composition containing water, a surfactant blend, and the specialty Arbalon™ R-50 as a rheology modifier. The surfactant blend consists of disodium cocamphodiacetate and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (INCI names). This composition is free of insoluble molecules.

[0012] The document “SPA & Salon at Home Creamy Shampoo” (Anonymous, October 22, 2021, available, subject to having a user account, at the url address: https: / / www.ulprospector.eom / documents / 1625185.pdf?bs=77&b=5268233&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) describes a shampoo composition based on insoluble glycol distearate particles. This composition contains water, a surfactant blend, and the specialty Arbalon™ R-50. The surfactant blend consists of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and lauryl glucoside (INCI names). The document “Arbalon™ R-50 cellulose liquid” (Anonymous, October 27, 2021, available, subject to having a user account, at the url address: https: / / www.ulprospector.eom / documents / 1598326.pdf?bs=77&b=1423123&st= 20&r=eu&ind=personalcare), technical data sheet of the commercial specialty Arbalon™ R-50, indicates, in general, that this specialty can be used to confer a real elastic limit to cosmetic formulations such as shower gel and shampoo, and to suspend insoluble particles.

[0013] Document US 2013 / 143784 describes a hair cleansing composition comprising, in water, a mixture of surfactants including at least one alkyl polyglucoside, a compound containing a betaine moiety and at least one amino acid acyl. This composition is free of insoluble particles. In its introduction, this document indicates that it is desirable for the composition to be free of substances such as cellulose and its derivatives.

[0014] Achieving the stable suspension of insoluble particles in a cosmetic composition for hygiene and / or skin and / or hair care, without negatively impacting the effectiveness or final viscosity of this composition, and without altering the natural aspect of the formula, constitutes a real challenge. None of the cosmetic compositions proposed to date by the prior art responds satisfactorily to this challenge.

[0015] The present invention aims to remedy the drawbacks of these cosmetic compositions of the prior art, and to propose a fluid cosmetic composition, with a smooth appearance, containing insoluble particles which are held in suspension therein in a stable manner, which has good washing efficacy and high foaming power, while being free of ingredients which are non-irritating or otherwise harmful to the skin, and being respectful of the epidermis and therefore presenting the least possible risk of skin intolerance.

[0016] Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition contains as few ingredients as possible which are not of natural origin, and preferably no such ingredients, that it has a physiological pH, and that it is suitable for use on all skin types, including sensitive skin and atopic skin. More generally, the invention aims for this composition to contain as few ingredients as possible.

[0017] The invention also aims to ensure that this cosmetic composition has sufficient viscosity so as not to escape from the user's hand when handling it and which allows it to be packaged in different types of packaging and dispensing devices, in tubes and pump bottles.

[0018] Presentation of the invention

[0019] It has been discovered by the present inventors that these objectives are achieved by a fluid cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous cosmetically acceptable vehicle, insoluble particles, a particular combination of surfactants, and a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, this mixture making it possible to effectively and durably maintain the particles in a state of homogeneous suspension in the vehicle.

[0020] Thus, according to a first aspect, there is provided according to the present invention a cosmetic composition, particularly suitable for topical application, in particular on the skin and hair, which contains:

[0021] - a mixture of surfactants comprising, in particular consisting of: a / at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates, b / as non-ionic surfactant(s), lauryl glucoside optionally mixed with at least one other non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, c / at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines,

[0022] - a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, in a content between a value strictly greater than 0.05% and a value less than or equal to 0.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0023] - insoluble particles in stable suspension in the composition,

[0024] - and water.

[0025] This composition is furthermore free of amphoteric surfactant of the amidopropyl betaine class and of surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group.

[0026] It further preferably comprises at most 0.5% by weight of gum(s) other than cellulose gum, relative to the total weight of the composition. This means that it is free of gum(s) other than cellulose gum, or, when it comprises one or more gum(s) other than cellulose gum, the total concentration of the latter in the composition is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] In the present description, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the substance is suitable for use by contacting with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, this substance has a pleasant odor, color and feel, and it does not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from the composition according to the invention.

[0028] Insoluble particles are particles that have no solubility in the vehicle of the composition, including in a mixture with the other ingredients of the latter. Insoluble particles are thus found in the composition in solid form.

[0029] By stable suspension, conventionally in itself, is meant the fact that the particles do not sediment or aggregate. Thus, in the composition according to the invention, virtually no settling of the insoluble particles contained therein is observed, including for long periods, in particular for a period as long as the general shelf life of the composition, which is more than 6 months, preferably more than 12 months, more preferably more than 18 months and preferentially 36 months. This stability can in particular be ensured by visual observation of the composition.

[0030] Preferably, the insoluble particles are kept dispersed in the composition in a substantially homogeneous manner.

[0031] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can thus be described as a smooth composition, this smooth appearance, linked to the very good stability of the suspension of the insoluble particles in the vehicle, being advantageously obtained by the joint use of cellulose and cellulose gum, natural ingredients which, in addition to their suspending effect, do not negatively impact the synergistic effect of the different surfactants which are part of the composition and give it a particularly high foaming power, and a good quality of foam.

[0032] The cosmetic composition according to the invention also presents a low risk of skin irritation, reduced compared to the cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

[0033] It also has a good viscosity, without it even being necessary to use an additional ingredient having a thickening effect. In the present description, the term "good viscosity" means a viscosity allowing the composition to be dispensed by different packaging, in particular tubes and pump bottles, and not to escape from the user's hands when it is dispensed therein. Thus, in preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of an additional ingredient having a thickening effect. It is preferably in particular devoid of alginates, carrageenans, starch, gums such as xanthan gum, diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, etc.The composition according to the invention is furthermore preferably free of ethylene glycol (PEG) polymers and their derivatives, which have a negative environmental impact.

[0034] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of an oily phase. It is thus in no way an emulsion, or a two-phase composition, but rather a single-phase fluid composition. It is thus notably substantially free of fatty acids. This means that it does not contain fatty acids, or in a concentration of less than 0.05%, preferably 0.01%, by weight. It also preferably does not contain an emulsifying agent such as a polyethylene glycol fatty acid monoester.

[0035] In particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 55%, more preferably at least 60%, and preferentially at least 65%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. In the present description, the term "at least one" means a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds.Thus, the mixture of surfactants of the composition according to the invention contains, and is preferably composed of: a / a single anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants; b / a single non-ionic surfactant which is lauryl glucoside, or a plurality of non-ionic surfactants including lauryl glucoside as well as another or a plurality of other non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; this or these non-ionic surfactants may optionally be mixed with one or more other non-ionic surfactants, such as for example C8-C16 fatty alcohol glucosides, for example coco glucoside; c / and a single amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaines, or a plurality of amphoteric surfactants different from amidopropyl betaines.

[0036] The anionic surfactant(s) selected from alaninates may be formed by any cosmetically acceptable counterion. The counterion is preferably sodium.

[0037] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alaninates are preferably chosen from sodium cocoyl alaninate (INCI name: sodium cocoyl alaninate) and trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate (INCI name: trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate).

[0038] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any other anionic surfactant which is not an alaninate. It comprises, for example, a single anionic surfactant, sodium cocoyl alaninate.

[0039] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not comprise any other non-ionic surfactant which is not an alkyl glucoside in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. For example, it comprises a single non-ionic surfactant, lauryl glucoside.

[0040] In other particular embodiments, the composition comprises at least one second non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. The alkyl glucosides are preferably chosen from the compounds with INCI names: octyl glucoside and decyl glucoside.

[0041] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines are chosen from the substances with INCI names: Sodium Caproamphoacetate, Sodium

[0042] Caproamphopropionate, Sodium Apryloamphoacetate, Sodium

[0043] Caprylamphopropionate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium

[0044] Cocoamphopropionate, Sodium Isostearoamphoacetate, Sodium isostearoamphopropionate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium

[0045] Lauroamphopropionate, Sodium Oleoamphoacetate, Sodium

[0046] Oleoamphopropionate, Sodium Stearoamphoacetate, Sodium

[0047] Stearoamphopropionate, Sodium Tallowamphoacetate, Sodium

[0048] Wheatgermamphoacetate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium

[0049] Caproamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium

[0050] Cocoamphodiacétate, Disodium Isostearoamphodiacetate, Disodium

[0051] Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium

[0052] Capryloamphodipropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium

[0053] Isostearoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium

[0054] Stearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Tallowamphodiacetate and Disodium

[0055] Wheatgermamphodiacetate.

[0056] Preferably, said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is chosen from lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, these compounds being able to be used in the composition alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0057] In particular embodiments of the invention, the surfactant mixture contains a single amphoteric surfactant which is coco betaine.

[0058] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of:

[0059] - any surfactant of the isethionic acid or isethionate group type, in particular a surfactant chosen from acyl isethionic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium cocoyl isethionate;

[0060] - and / or any surfactant of the N-methyltaurine or taurate group type, in particular a surfactant chosen from N-acyl taurines or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium methyl cocoyl taurate;

[0061] - and / or any surfactant of the sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinate group type, in particular a surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfosuccinic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name lauryl sulfosuccinate;

[0062] - and / or any surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group, i.e. an -O-SO3H or -SO2-O- group, such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate. Without altering the performance of the composition, this advantageously makes it possible to reduce the presence within said composition of compounds conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for hygiene or care of the skin and hair which have the disadvantage of a non-natural origin.

[0063] Furthermore, although sulfated surfactants have a particularly interesting foaming power, they are aggressive for the epidermis. Thus, their absence in the composition which is the subject of the present invention advantageously reduces the risks of attacking the user's epidermis.

[0064] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any other surfactant than: one or more alaninates, one or more alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, including at least lauryl glucoside, and one or more amphoteric surfactants other than amidopropyl betaines.

[0065] In general, the composition according to the invention preferably contains as few surfactants as possible. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not comprise more than 6 surfactants, preferably not more than 5 surfactants, more preferably not more than 4 surfactants and it preferably contains only 3 surfactants. As indicated above, a high foaming power as well as a good quality of the foam formed can be obtained with a mixture of surfactants comprising a single compound from each of three defined families of surfactants, namely: an anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates, the non-ionic surfactant lauryl glucoside and an amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines. This advantageously makes it possible to minimize the number of ingredients present in the composition and thus to reduce its manufacturing costs.

[0066] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the content of said mixture of surfactants in the composition is between 5 and 18% by weight, preferably between 6 and 16% by weight, and preferentially between 8 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such ranges of values ​​make it possible to obtain good foaming power of the composition, good quality of foam formed and good viscosity of the composition, while being associated with a reduced manufacturing cost of the composition.

[0067] The total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alaninates is preferably between 1.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 2 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] In the particular embodiments of the invention in which the composition comprises a single anionic surfactant, preferably sodium cocoyl alaninate, the latter is thus preferably present in the composition in a content of between 1.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 2 and 4% by weight, in particular between 3 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, preferably between 5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 5 and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the total content of lauryl glucoside as the only non-ionic surfactant in the composition is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, preferably between 5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 5 and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of non-ionic surfactants consisting of lauryl glucoside accompanied by at least one other non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, preferentially between 5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 5 and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is preferably between 0.6 and 3% by weight, preferentially between 1.5 and 2.5% by weight, in particular between 1.5 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] In the particular embodiments of the invention in which the composition contains a single amphoteric surfactant, preferably coco betaine, the latter is thus preferably present in the composition in a content of between 0.5 and 3% by weight, preferably between 1.5 and 2.5% by weight, in particular between 1.5 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum comprises substantially equal mass quantities of cellulose and cellulose gum.

[0073] Cellulose and cellulose gum, also known as carboxymethylcellulose, can be derived from any source, including microbial and / or plant origin.

[0074] Cellulose is preferably in microcrystalline form, for example CAS No. 9004-34-6.

[0075] The cellulose gum is preferably sodium carboxymethylcellulose, CAS No. 9004-32-4.

[0076] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is in liquid form.

[0077] For example, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum may be as marketed under the name Arbalon® R-50, which also has the advantage of containing glycerin, a compound with emollient properties which are particularly advantageous in the context of application to cosmetic compositions for topical application.

[0078] The total content of said mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum in the composition is preferably between a value strictly greater than 0.05%, in particular greater than or equal to 0.1%, and a value less than or equal to 1%, preferably less than or equal to 0.9%, more preferably less than or equal to 0.5% and preferentially less than or equal to 0.45%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The content of mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum in the composition is between a value strictly greater than 0.05% and a value less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The content of the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum in the composition may be between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 0.45% by weight, more preferably between 0.15 and 0.5% by weight, in particular between 0.15 and 0.45% by weight, and preferably between 0.15 and 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] In particular embodiments of the invention, the insoluble particles comprise pearlescent agents, exfoliating particles and / or millicapsules.

[0080] Pearlescent agents are commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations, as agents that provide a pearly appearance to the composition in which they are incorporated. Examples include glycol distearate or ethylene glycol distearate.

[0081] By "exfoliating particles" or "scrubbing particles" is meant solid and abrasive particles which are particularly capable of carrying out, when applied by massage to the skin within a cosmetic composition, a mechanical exfoliation (also called scrubbing) of the dead cells of the superficial layers of the epidermis. Generally speaking, a skin scrub is typically carried out by applying a composition comprising exfoliating particles to the skin, massaging the skin coated with said composition, then rinsing said composition. The exfoliating particles then act by rubbing on the skin. The skin is thus smoothed, cell renewal is thus promoted.

[0082] According to the present invention, the exfoliating particles preferably have a median size of between 10 and 1500 pm, preferably between 50 and 1000 pm, and more preferably between 200 and 500 pm, for example between 250 and 450 pm. By "median size" of the exfoliating particles is meant the median diameter by volume. The median size of the exfoliating particles can be measured by static light scattering using a Mastersizer type granulometer. As exfoliating particles, the following can be used according to the invention:

[0083] - exfoliating particles of mineral origin, such as sands, rocks, perlite or clays;

[0084] - exfoliating particles of plant origin, such as kernels, leaves, stems, algae, bark, dried fruits or roots;

[0085] - and / or exfoliating particles of organic origin, such as polyethylene or wax-based beads.

[0086] Examples of suitable materials include polyethylene beads or powder, perlite beads or powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice stone (INCI name: pumice), ground fruit kernel shells such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells, sawdust, wood flour, cork flour, glass beads, alumina (aluminum oxide), sugar crystals (sucrose), etc.; or any mixture thereof.

[0087] In the present description, the term millicapsules is understood to mean generally substantially spherical entities, of millimetric size, typically between 10 and 2000 pm, formed from a destructible, in particular breakable, in particular solid and in particular continuous, envelope enclosing a core comprising one or more ingredients.

[0088] By "millicapsules" we mean spherical aggregates with a diameter of between approximately 10 and 2000 pm, which contain at least one solid or liquid core which is enclosed by at least one continuous envelope.

[0089] The millicapsules used according to the present invention may contain any active ingredient or a mixture of active ingredients which it may be advantageous to release during application, in particular to the skin and / or hair, of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, and which the coating within the capsule makes it possible to protect throughout the shelf life of the composition, in particular against pro-oxidant elements such as free radicals, oxygen or even ultraviolet rays.

[0090] The active ingredient content, or encapsulation rate, can be very high, in particular in the order of 85 to 90%, expressed as the weight rate of active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the capsule.

[0091] The active ingredients may include perfumes, essential oils, vitamins, etc. The shell may, for example, be made of polymer(s) of marine or plant origin, of semi-synthetic material or of synthetic material. It may, for example, be made of gum arabic, agar agar, agarose, maltodextrin, alginic acid or one of its salts, for example sodium or calcium alginate, of fat, fatty acid, cetyl alcohol, collagen, chitosan, lecithin, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharide such as dextran or starch and its derivatives, in particular starch ethers and esters, of polypeptide, protein hydrolyzate, sucrose, wax, etc.; or chemically modified cellulose, in particular cellulose ester or ether, for example cellulose acetate, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose; or polymer such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone.

[0092] The millicapsules used in the composition according to the invention can be obtained in any conventional manner, for example by coating finely dispersed liquid or solid phases in a film-forming polymer, the latter precipitating on the material to be coated after emulsification and coacervation or interfacial polymerization.

[0093] The millicapsules used according to the invention may be free of any pigment or colorant, or may be colored, for example containing, in their core, their shell or in both, one or more colored compounds.

[0094] The content of insoluble particles in the composition according to the invention varies depending on the nature of the insoluble particle.

[0095] Thus, when the insoluble particles comprise one or more pearlescent agents, in particular are made up of one or more pearlescent agents, the content of such pearlescent agents, glycol distearate for example, is preferably between 0.1 and 1.2% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 1% by weight, in particular approximately 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] When the insoluble particles comprise exfoliating particles, in particular consist of exfoliating particles, the content of exfoliating particles is between 1 and 2.5% by weight, preferably between 1.5 and 2.2% by weight, in particular approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] When the insoluble particles comprise millicapsules, in particular consist of millicapsules, the millicapsule content is between 1 and 2% by weight, preferably between 1 and 1.5% by weight, in particular approximately

[0098] 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains in particular, the contents being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0100] - at least 50% by weight of water;

[0101] - 5 to 18% of a mixture of surfactants consisting of: a / 1.5 to 5%, in particular between 3 and 4% by weight, by weight of one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alaninates, such as sodium cocoyl alaninate, b / 3 to 10%, in particular between 5 and 7% by weight, of lauryl glucoside alone or in a mixture with at least one other non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, c / 0.5 to 3%, in particular between 1.5 and 2% by weight, of at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, such as coco betaine;

[0102] - 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, in particular 0.3 to 0.45% by weight, of a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, preferably in respective amounts by weight which are substantially equal;

[0103] - and insoluble particles in stable suspension in the composition, in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight of particles of pearlescent agent(s) and / or 1 to 2.5% by weight of exfoliating particles and / or 1 to 2% by weight of millicapsules.

[0104] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

[0105] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one, i.e. one or more, cosmetically acceptable excipient(s), preferably chosen from emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. In particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains in particular one or more emollients, in particular chosen from glycerin, diglycerin or sorbitol.

[0106] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more conditioning agents, in particular chosen from gums, other than cellulose gum, in particular guar gum and its derivatives, polyquaterniums, polyglyceryls, polysaccharides, squalane, etc. Preferably, the conditioning agent is guar gum or one of its derivatives. In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the total content of conditioning agent(s) in the composition is between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of conditioning agent(s) chosen from gums other than cellulose gum, such as guar gum or its derivatives, is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains one or more solubilizers, in particular chosen from the family of polyglyceryls, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl oleate, coco-glucoside.

[0108] As indicated above, in particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition is free of additional ingredients having a thickening effect, in order to minimize the number of ingredients in the formulas. As explained above, all of the components of the composition, in particular the mixture of surfactants, advantageously give the latter a good viscosity and in particular a viscosity allowing it to be free of additional ingredients having a thickening effect, even when it comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients such as emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers and perfumes. The number of ingredients in the composition is thus reduced and the associated manufacturing costs are therefore also reduced.In other particular embodiments of the present invention, the composition still comprises at least one additional ingredient having a thickening effect.

[0109] The additional ingredient with a thickening effect is then preferably chosen from alginates, carrageenans, starch and gums, other than cellulose gum, such as diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, etc. The total content of such additional ingredient(s) chosen from gums other than cellulose gum is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more cosmetically active agents, in particular topically, for example chosen from moisturizing agents, antioxidants, vitamins, etc.

[0111] The total content of cosmetically active agent(s) in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises at least one, i.e. one or more, cosmetically active agent(s) chosen from vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helichrysum extracts, helichrysum essential oils, meadowfoam oil, in particular Limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, such as the product marketed under the name Acides de Fleurs®, Garcinia extracts, Milk Thistle oil, niacinamide, Edelweiss extracts, such as the product marketed under the name Alpaflor® Edelweiss, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts, such a list being in no way limiting of the invention. The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably has a dynamic viscosity at 22°C + / - 2°C greater than 700 mPa.s, preferably between 1500 and 4000 mPa.s.This viscosity can for example be measured using a rotational rheometer, such as the Rheomat RM200 (module M2), at a shear rate of 17.7 s'. 1 , for a shear time of 10 s.

[0113] Depending on the type of insoluble particles it contains, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be transparent or opaque. A transparent composition is defined in the present description, in a conventional manner, as a composition having a turbidity of less than 20 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units). An opaque composition is defined in the present description, also in a conventional manner, as a composition having a turbidity greater than 1000 NTU. The turbidity can be measured using a HACH TL2310 turbidimeter. Before each turbidity measurement, the correct adjustment of the device is preferably checked by measuring the turbidity of two standards from a StabCal 0 to 4000 NTU calibration set kit, the standards being chosen so that they frame the expected value of the sample.

[0114] The cosmetic composition according to the invention, in its desired form, may be prepared by any conventional method per se for the preparation of cosmetic compositions. A particularly preferred preparation method within the scope of the invention comprises:

[0115] - in an acceptable cosmetic vehicle, in particular water, adjustment of the pH to 4, for example with citric acid;

[0116] - while stirring, adding the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, as well as the insoluble particles, and stirring for example for 20 minutes at 3000 rpm, so as to obtain an opaque translucent appearance;

[0117] - very rapid deaeration, for example in a vacuum chamber;

[0118] - slow re-homogenization, for example for 5 min, in particular in a deflocculating turbine with holes at 250 rpm, so as to resuspend the cellulose and cellulose gum and to allow the particles to be suspended homogeneously in the formula;

[0119] - introduction, at low stirring speed, for example 450 rpm, for example in a deflocculating turbine with holes at 450 rpm, of the amphoteric surfactant(s) then of the non-ionic surfactant(s), previously baked at 40°C, then of the anionic surfactant(s); the formula becomes transparent;

[0120] - optionally, addition of sodium benzoate; - stirring for approximately 20 minutes, for example at 450 rpm, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0121] - optionally, adjust the pH with citric acid then stir at 450 rpm for 5 to 15 minutes.

[0122] In the particular embodiments in which the cosmetic composition comprises at least one conditioning agent, such as a guar gum derivative, the latter is preferably introduced with vigorous stirring into the water in the initial stage of the process.

[0123] The cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present invention can be used on all keratin materials, such as the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes, in particular packaged in the form of a hygiene product, for example in the form of a product for cleaning the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, in particular in the form of a product for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin, in particular the face and / or body, in the form of a shower product, in the form of a shampoo, etc.

[0124] It can be presented in the form of shower gel, shampoo or foaming face and / or body gel.

[0125] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for washing and / or caring for the skin, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face and / or the scalp, and / or the hair, of an individual, preferably in topical application.

[0126] This use preferably comprises successive steps consisting of:

[0127] - apply the composition to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably having been wet beforehand,

[0128] - develop foam, in particular by rubbing the skin and / or hair to which the composition has been applied,

[0129] - and rinse, preferably with water, if necessary after a resting time and / or a possible massage.

[0130] These steps can, for example, be carried out once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, or as often as necessary. The composition according to the invention can in particular be used for washing and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0131] In this description, sensitive skin is understood to mean skin prone to irritation or allergic reactions due to various internal and external non-immunological factors. Atopic skin is understood to mean skin affected by an inflammatory disease characterized by dry skin associated with itching, such as in eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0132] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair of an individual, using a cosmetic composition according to the invention. This method comprises successive steps consisting of:

[0133] - apply the composition to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably having been wet beforehand,

[0134] - develop foam by rubbing the composition on the skin and / or hair,

[0135] - and rinse, preferably with water.

[0136] This process may meet any characteristic, or combination of characteristics, described above with reference to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention.

[0137] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in light of the examples of implementation below, provided for purely illustrative purposes and in no way limiting the invention.

[0138] Examples

[0139] 1 / Example 1: Evaluation of different compounds with suspensive properties

[0140] The suspension of insoluble particles was tested for several compounds with suspensive properties in formulas which are otherwise in accordance with the invention and transparent, which allows a homogeneous distribution of insoluble particles to be quickly visualized.

[0141] For this evaluation, the formulas included, in % weight relative to the total weight of the formula:

[0142] - sodium cocoyl alaninate (3-4% by weight)

[0143] - lauryl glucoside (5-7% by weight), - coco betaine (1.5 - 2% by weight)

[0144] - insoluble particles: millicapsules (1.2% by weight),

[0145] - compound to be tested (according to % by weight indicated in table 1),

[0146] - water qsp 100%.

[0147] The insoluble particles are initially suspended homogeneously in the formulas by stirring.

[0148] The compositions were evaluated on the following criteria:

[0149] - stability over time of the suspension of insoluble particles,

[0150] - visual aspect (transparency, homogeneity).

[0151] The results obtained, in terms of visual appearance of the formula after approximately 15 min, are indicated in Table 1 for each compound tested.

[0152] Table 1

[0153] It appears that in this mixture of surfactants in accordance with the invention, the transparency and stability of the insoluble particles are satisfactory only in the presence of the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum in accordance with the invention. For the other compound(s), the cloudy appearance is observed very quickly, in the first minutes after preparation of the composition.

[0154] 2 / Example 2: evaluation of the range of use of the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum

[0155] For this evaluation, the formulas include, relative to the total weight of the formula: - sodium cocoyl alaninate (3-4% by weight),

[0156] - lauryl glucoside (5-7% by weight),

[0157] - coco betaine (1.5 - 2% by weight),

[0158] - insoluble particles (type and % by weight below),

[0159] - 50 / 50 mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum (according to % by weight below),

[0160] - water qsp 100%.

[0161] The insoluble particles are initially suspended homogeneously in the formulas by stirring.

[0162] The visual aspect allows us to validate whether or not the composition has a homogeneous appearance, the insoluble particles being maintained in stable suspension in the formula.

[0163] In the case where the insoluble particles are millicapsules at 1.2% by weight, a concentration of 50 / 50 mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum of 0.3% by weight was tested. It is observed that the millicapsules remain durably distributed homogeneously in suspension in the composition. In the case where the insoluble particles are pearlescent agents, more specifically glycol distearate particles, at a concentration of 0.8% or 1.2% by weight, the results obtained, in terms of visual appearance of the formula, are shown in Table 2.

[0164] Table 2 (“- >>: the particles do not remain distributed homogeneously in the composition, and fall quickly); “++ >>: the particles remain permanently suspended homogeneously in the composition)

[0165] These tests show that 0.05% of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture is insufficient to homogeneously suspend 1.2% of the pearlescent agent. On the other hand, for 0.15% of this mixture and more, the pearlescent agent particles appear suspended in the composition in a homogeneous and lasting manner over time.

[0166] 3 / Example 3: examples of compositions according to the invention

[0167] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention with pearlescent agent particles distributed homogeneously, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and hair care, meets the characteristics shown in Table 3 below:

[0168] Table 3 - Example of an opaque composition, in accordance with the invention for hair hygiene and care Another example of a composition in accordance with the invention containing homogeneously distributed millicapsules, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hair hygiene and care, meets the characteristics shown in Table 4 below:

[0169] Table 4 - Example of a transparent composition in accordance with the invention for hair hygiene and care Another example of a composition in accordance with the invention containing homogeneously distributed pearlescent agent particles, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the skin of the face and / or body, is given in Table 5 below: Table 5 - Example of an opaque composition, in accordance with the invention for the hygiene and care of the skin of the face and / or body

[0170] Another example of a composition in accordance with the invention containing millicapsules distributed homogeneously, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the skin of the face and / or body, is given in Table 6 below:

[0171] Table 6 - Example of a transparent composition in accordance with the invention for the hygiene and care of the skin of the face and / or body

[0172] 4 / Example 4: Evaluation of the characteristics of the compositions according to the invention The compositions in accordance with the invention of formula described in table 7 below are evaluated on the following criteria:

[0173] - foaming power (quantity / quality): foam height, - viscosity,

[0174] - pH (measurement made with a pH meter),

[0175] - stability over time of the particle suspension (visual observation).

[0176] For this purpose, the following operating protocols are implemented. For the evaluation of the foam height, a 250 ml graduated cylinder, with an external diameter of 38.9 cm and a height of 36 cm, with a stopper, is used. 0.5 g of composition is placed in this cylinder and demineralized water is added to make up to 50 ml. The cylinder is stoppered and then shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height is read, and is expressed in mm. The viscosity is measured using a Rheomat RM200 rotary rheometer (module M2), at a shear rate of 17.7 s -1 , for a shear time of 10 s, at 22°C + / - 2°C.

[0177] The results obtained with the different compositions (Comp. 1 to Comp. 4) are shown in Table 7 below: Table 7

[0178] It is observed that the 4 compositions according to the invention have a very interesting foam height and a satisfactory viscosity.

[0179] During the test period of approximately 2 hours, good stability of the particle suspension was also visually observed.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it contains: - a mixture of surfactants comprising: a / at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates, b / as non-ionic surfactant(s), lauryl glucoside optionally mixed with at least one other non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, c / at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, - a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, in a content between a value strictly greater than 0.05% and a value less than or equal to 0.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - insoluble particles in stable suspension in said composition, - and water, said composition being free of amphoteric surfactant of the amidopropyl betaine class and of surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group, and said composition comprising at most 0.5% by weight of gum(s) other than cellulose gum, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which said insoluble particles comprise pearlescent agents, present in said composition in a content of between 0.1 and 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which said insoluble particles comprise exfoliating particles, present in said composition in a content of between 1 and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which said insoluble particles comprise millicapsules, present in said composition in a content of between 1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum comprises equal mass quantities of cellulose and cellulose gum.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the content of said mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is between a value strictly greater than 0.05% and a value less than or equal to 0.45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising at least one conditioning agent chosen from guar gum and its derivatives, polyquaterniums, polyglyceryls, polysaccharides and squalane.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the content of said mixture of surfactants is between 5 and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which said mixture of surfactants contains a single anionic surfactant which is sodium cocoyl alaninate, present in said composition in a content of between 1.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, in which said mixture of surfactants contains a single amphoteric surfactant which is coco betaine, present in said composition in a content of between 0.5 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one cosmetically active agent chosen from vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helichrysum extracts, helichrysum essential oils, meadowfoam oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, Garcinia extracts, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, Edelweiss extracts, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in the form of shower gel, shampoo or foaming face and / or body gel.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, having a dynamic viscosity at 22°C greater than 700 mPa.s, preferably between 1500 and 4000 mPa.s.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair.

16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 15, for washing and / or caring for sensitive skin.

17. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, using a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, comprising successive steps consisting of: - applying said composition to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably having been wetted beforehand, - develop foam by rubbing the composition on the skin and / or hair, and - rinse.

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