Lasting skin-perfecting make-up composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two separate linear alkanes each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two separate, optionally (poly)hydroxylated polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, and (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of C9-C14 linear alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[0001] Perfection and hold of complexion composition

[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, in particular for skin makeup, with a perfecting and long-lasting effect without transfer.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] The state of the art is known of compositions for the skin and / or lips using film-forming polymers for a long-lasting effect of makeup on the skin and / or lips.

[0006] "Length" refers to makeup that is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day. Good staying power, for example, refers to a foundation that does not require touch-ups during the day. In addition, we are looking for makeup compositions with "non-transfer" staying power, meaning that the composition, and in particular the color, does not transfer onto fabrics that come into contact with the makeup film applied to the skin (e.g., handkerchief, mask, clothing, etc.).

[0007] We are currently looking for compositions that include more ingredients of natural origin, but without compromising on the sensory and lasting properties of makeup.

[0008] “Naturally derived ingredients” means ingredients that come from nature but have been physically transformed or have been chemically extracted or treated.

[0009] We are also looking for compositions that allow the deposition of a thin film with good mattness, a perfecting effect and long-lasting hold. However, the presence of solid particles (pigments and fillers), especially in high concentrations, can impact the stability of the emulsion. There is therefore a need to develop a fluid foundation composition with improved stability and good mattness and long-lasting properties.

[0010] The Applicant has rightly shown that the use of (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms and (ii) distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, makes it possible in particular to obtain a foundation product having good mattness and long-lasting hold without transfer, as well as good sensory properties on application and a perfecting effect. In particular, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion providing good glide on application, the deposition of a thin film like a second skin, with a matte and perfecting finish, comfortable and very soft.

[0011] STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0012] For this purpose, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition is proposed in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0013] (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms,

[0014] (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, and

[0015] (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C1 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the application to said keratin material of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.

[0017] In particular, it is a makeup product for the skin of the face and / or neck, and in particular a fluid foundation.

[0018] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] A first object of the invention is therefore a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0020] (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms,

[0021] (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, and (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention is a generally liquid or fluid composition.

[0023] By "liquid or fluid" is meant a composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid or semi-solid compositions.

[0024] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 10%, in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight, or even less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Indeed, non-volatile oils can provide softness and glide to the application of the film but they will tend to reduce the hold and the non-transfer aspect sought here, which is why if they are present in the emulsion of the invention, they are present in small quantities.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by total weight of fatty substances, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and pasty compounds, or even is free of waxes and pasty compounds.

[0026] By "fatty substance" according to the invention, we mean a solid compound or one comprising a solid fraction at 25°C. We can cite in particular butters, waxes, pasty compounds, and their mixtures.

[0027] Pasty compounds are non-crystalline fatty compounds comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0028] Linear C9-C14 alkanes

[0029] The composition of the invention comprises at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms.

[0030] The presence of these two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, makes it possible to adjust and optimize the volatility of the composition, allowing good placement of the composition once the makeup film is applied to the skin and controlled evaporation of the linear C9-C14 alkanes, to obtain the desired hold.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, chosen from the group consisting of nonane, docane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, mixtures of C9-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C10-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C11-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C12-C14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] In particular, the following C9-C14 alkanes and alkane mixtures will be mentioned:

[0033] - C11 -C13, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0034] - C9-C12, C10-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0035] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively, and their mixtures.

[0036] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes.

[0037] The total content of C9-C14 alkanes will generally range from 15 to 25% by weight, preferably from 16 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0038] In particular, the content of C9-C12 alkanes will range from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the content of C11-C13 alkanes will range from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes greater than the total content of linear C11-C13 alkanes, in particular a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes ranging from 1 to 3 times the total content by weight of linear C11-C13 alkanes relative to the total weight of linear C9-C14 alkanes. Polyglycerol and fatty acid esters

[0040] The composition of the invention further comprises at least two distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters.

[0041] By 'fatty acid' in the expression polyglycerol esters of fatty acids is meant in particular C6-C30 fatty acids, in particular C10-C20 and preferably C12-C20.

[0042] Examples include citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Comme esters de polyglycérol et d’acide gras utilisés selon l’invention, on peut citer notamment les composés suivants : Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate, Polygly eery 1-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polygly ceryl- 10 Decalinoleate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Decacasterate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Didecanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglycerin -2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate,Polyglyceryl- 10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Poly glyceryl- 5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Poly glyceryl- 5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Myristate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Poly glyceryl- 5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polygly eery 1-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyrisinoleate,Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Poly glyceryl- 3 Triisostearate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Tristearate, et leurs mélanges.,

[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least two esters of polyglycerol and fatty acid, distinct, C10-C20, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] As commercial products which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of the products marketed under the following names:

[0046] GRÀNSURF from Grant Industries, named INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate,

[0047] DEHYMULS® from BASF, INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, DUB ISO from Stearinerie Dubois, Hostacerin® TGI, Dermol TGDIS, Dapracare® PG3DI MB, LAMEFORM® TGI, IMWITOR® PG3 DIS or PGLIS 203KC, INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0048] Soldoc PGPR, Hydriol® PGR, Evicare® PGPR, Cithrol™ PG3PR, Akoline PGPR™, dermofeel® PGPR, or VERCAREM P3P by INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,

[0049] - MAKI BASE SEB named INCI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate & Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,

[0050] - SY-GLYSTER de Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, PELEMOL® 6GPR, S Face CR-1001 , NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15, ou SUNSOFT No.818SK-C(MB), de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, S-FACE de Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, COSMOL 41V, Dermol DGMIS, Risorex PGIS21 , PGLIS 102KC, Cithrol™ PG21 IS, ou Risorex PGIS22 de nom INCI le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,

[0051] OLIVEM de Aroma Zone, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,

[0052] - NIKKOMULESE de NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate,

[0053] - SALACOS PG 218, SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C(MB) ou PGLOL 21 OKCn de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 10 Dioleate,

[0054] S Face 0-401 P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1 -OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGL0.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, ou Protachem™ 100, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate, et leurs mélanges.

[0055] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid, and one ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid.

[0056] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, chosen from the group consisting of:

[0057] - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Poly glyceryl-10 Dioleate (combination of the two);

[0058] - Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (combination of the two);

[0059] - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (combination of the two);

[0060] - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; and mixtures thereof, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

[0061] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, it comprises an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid and an ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid, preferably a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate. The total content of polyglycerol ester(s) and fatty acids optionally

[0062] (poly)hydroxylated in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] In particular, the total content of polyglycerol esters and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] The total content of polyglycerol esters and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0066] (i) A mixture of linear C9-C14 alkanes comprising at least one mixture of linear C11-C13 alkanes and one mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes, in a total content greater than or equal to 12%, preferably ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0067] (ii) An emulsifying system, in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the combinations chosen from: Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Poly glyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; and Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and

[0068] (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: (i) a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes,

[0070] (ii) a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and a Poly glyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and

[0071] (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably with a content of C9-C12 alkanes greater than the content of C11-C13 alkanes and a content of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate greater than the content of Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

[0072] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0073] (i) A mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a mixture of linear C11-C13 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0074] (ii) A Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content ranging from

[0075] 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a Polyglyceryl-

[0076] 3 Diisostearate, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0077] (iii) Pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably with a content of C9-C12 alkanes greater than the content of C11-C13 alkanes and a content of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate greater than the content of Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

[0078] Pigments and Fillers

[0079] The composition of the invention further comprises pigments and fillers.

[0080] The pigments and fillers may or may not be surface-treated to facilitate their solubilization in the aqueous phase or the oily phase of the emulsion. In particular, the pigments are dispersed in the oily phase of the invention. By "pigments" is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0083] Examples of "organic pigments" include D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D a C Red no. 28; D a C Yellow no.

[0084] 6; D to C orange no. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D a C Red No. 27; D a C red n° 13; D a C Red n°

[0085] 7; D a C Red No. 6; D a C Yellow No. 5; D a C Red No. 36; D a C Red No. 33; D a C orange No. 10; D a C yellow No. 6; D a C Red No. 30; D a C red No. 3; D a C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine lakes.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0087] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0088] In particular, the pigments are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 12% to 25% by weight, preferably from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Charges

[0090] The composition of the invention further comprises one or more fillers to provide mattness and a perfecting effect to the foundation. By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.

[0091] Thus the filler(s) according to the invention are chosen in particular from: cellulose powders, lauroyl lysine, boron nitride powders, silica powders, starch powders, calcium carbonate, clays, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the filler(s) according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of silica powders, cellulose powders, and their mixtures, in particular silica powders.

[0093] Like the above pigments, the filler(s) may or may not be treated to facilitate their dispersion in the aqueous phase or the oily phase of the composition.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the filler(s) are dispersed in the oily phase of the composition. They are then advantageously treated with a lipophilic agent such as those described for the pigments above.

[0095] The total content of fillers according to the invention will range in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] Aqueous phase

[0097] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. The water content will generally range from 25 to 45% by weight, in particular from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0098] According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, we can cite:

[0099] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0100] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

[0101] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] It may also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and their mixtures.

[0103] Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent chosen from C1-C5 lower monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, preferably C3-C5, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0104] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will advantageously also comprise at least polyols and / or glycols in a total content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for a moisturizing effect promoting the obtaining of a radiant complexion without a greasy effect.

[0105] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one or more C3-C5 glycols, preferably in a total content ranging from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Oily phase

[0107] The composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase. The term “oily phase” means an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other.

[0108] By "oil" we mean a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0109] An oily phase according to the invention comprises the linear C9-C14 alkanes described above and optionally in addition one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0110] These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0111] By "volatile oil", according to the invention, is meant an oil having lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the protocol below. The high rate of volatile phase, and in particular of volatile oils, makes it possible to have a light composition, which is easily applied to the skin; the volatile oils participate in the establishment of the film on the skin during application, and when they evaporate, they allow the film to adhere to the skin, with a sensation of bare skin, without a material effect or mask effect on the skin.

[0112] METHODOLOGY: 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PAAMÀ plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. This material is spread with a finger over the entire plate. Then, it is placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 33 °C and 50% humidity. For each material, the test is carried out 3 times. The mass loss during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0113] [Math.1]

[0114] % mass lost 100

[0115] With m t x corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tôOmin) and m t o corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0116] According to the invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which does not meet the definition of volatile oil described above.

[0117] Preferably, the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0118] Indeed, a low content of non-volatile oils will make it possible to preserve the non-transfer effect achieved by the composition of the invention. According to another particular embodiment, the oily phase will comprise less than 5% by total weight of fatty substances, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and pasty compounds, or even be devoid of waxes and pasty compounds.

[0119] GALENIC

[0120] The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, and is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0121] In a particular embodiment, the composition is in the form of a facial fluid, a foundation, a primer, a finisher, or a concealer. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, in particular a foundation.

[0122] In particular, it will be a mattifying fluid foundation (otherwise known as 'matte') providing good coverage but with a natural makeup result and a perfecting and long-lasting effect.

[0123] By "perfecting effect," we mean that the complexion is evened out and regains its natural radiance. Imperfections are corrected.

[0124] By "long-lasting effect" we mean that the makeup is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day; generally, it does not require touch-ups during the day.

[0125] By "long-lasting, transfer-free effect", we mean that the composition and in particular the color do not transfer onto fabrics placed in contact with the makeup film applied to the skin (e.g.: handkerchief, mask, clothing, etc.).

[0126] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is a fluid foundation comprising:

[0127] (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of linear C11-C13 alkanes, in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) An emulsifying system, in particular Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in a total content preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0128] (iii) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular silica particles, in a content preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, gelling agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lightening agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0131] As lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made in particular of mineral gelling agents such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite. Preferably, the bentone will be dispersed in linear C9-C14 alkanes, in particular C9-C12.

[0132] COSMETIC PROCESS

[0133] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the application to the skin of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined previously in the invention.

[0134] In particular, the cosmetic process according to the invention allows the deposition on the skin of a thin film like a second skin, with good mattness and a complexion-perfecting effect, comfortable and very soft, with good hold, without transfer. Embodiments of the compositions according to the invention which can be used in the cosmetic process according to the invention are described above.

[0135] According to a particular method, the applied composition comprises:

[0136] (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of linear C11-C13 alkanes, in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0137] (ii) An emulsifying system, in particular Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in a total content preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0138] (iii) Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular silica particles, in a content preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the total content of linear C9-C1 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed as % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0140] EXAMPLES

[0141] Example 1: Association of polyglycerol and fatty acid esters on emulsion stability

[0142] The Applicant encountered stability problems in the formulation of an emulsion according to the invention comprising at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in a content of at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and pigments and fillers (solid particles), in particular at high contents (15-25% by total weight of the composition).

[0143] The emulsion stability problems manifested themselves by: solidification when hot in the ovens as well as at room temperature (rheo-fluidifying texture), a foamy texture and / or a lack of adhesion to the walls, particularly when hot.

[0144] Various approaches have been explored to improve the stability of the emulsion, particularly by acting on the emulsification process (rotation speed 800 to 1200 rpm), by modifying the nature and contents of dispersing agents, or by modifying the nature and contents of emulsifying agents. Emulsifying agents with similar HLBs have been used, which give the product good sensoriality.

[0145] The dispersing agents track did not reveal any improvement and regarding the emulsification process, the rotation at 1000 rpm helps in the stability of the emulsion, but it is the emulsifying agents track that showed the best improvement in stability as illustrated below.

[0146] Several tests were carried out and the example below illustrates the effect of combining two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters compared to a single polyglycerol and fatty acid ester with iso-content.

[0147] [Table 1]

[0148] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0149] 1) The pigments, part of the oils and the pigment dispersant are mixed and passed through a three-roll mill at room temperature to obtain a pigment paste;

[0150] 2) the aqueous phase (water, glycols) is prepared and homogenized under RÀYNERI;

[0151] 3) the oily phase is prepared and homogenized under high shear, then the pigment paste from step 1 is added to the rest of the oily phase and finally everything is homogenized under high shear;

[0152] 4) the powders (fillers) then the silicone resin pre-dispersed in a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, are added under RÀYNERI to the mixture of the oily and pigmentary phase of step 3 and the whole is homogenized;

[0153] 5) the aqueous phase is then added under RÀYNERI;

[0154] 6) the aqueous phase is then gradually poured into the oily phase under RAYNERI, gradually increasing the stirring to emulsify the two phases at room temperature, and the mixture is left stirring for around fifteen minutes.

[0155] The stability of the compositions is evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0156] 1 week alternating (12-hour cycles between -10°C and +40°C) and 50°C, and

[0157] 2 weeks alternating (12-hour cycles between -10°C and +40°C) and 50°C.

[0158] The composition is said to be 'stable' if it is so under the conditions described above.

[0159] The results show that the composition according to the invention comprising 2% of

[0160] POLYGLYCERYL-2-DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE and 1% POLYGLYCERYL-3-DIISOSTEARATE exhibit compliant stability under the test conditions, whereas the comparative composition with 3% POLYGLYCERYL-2-DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE alone is less stable after 1 week (uneven and non-compliant appearance, loss of adhesion to walls, etc.). These results demonstrate that the combination of two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, in particular an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids and an ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acids, makes it possible to stabilize an emulsion according to the invention.

[0161] Example 2: Evaluation of the cosmetic properties of the emulsion

[0162] The following fluid foundation was prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1. [Table 2]

[0163] After application to the skin of the face, this fluid foundation forms a thin film with good matte finish and good matte hold for up to 24 hours. Advantageously, this fluid foundation provides good hydration to the skin (better hydration than on skin without makeup due to the composition); it also brings luminosity and radiance to the skin; and has a non-transfer effect of makeup, resistant to pressure or friction. The appearance of the skin is thus smoother, more hydrated, the complexion is more unified and luminous, the skin is generally sublimated after application of this perfecting and non-transfer fluid foundation.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil, liquid or fluid emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, and (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C1 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the linear C9-C1 alkanes are chosen from nonane, docane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, mixtures of C9-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C10-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C11-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C12-C1 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes ranges from 15 to 25% by weight, preferably from 16 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes greater than the total content of linear C11-C13 alkanes, in particular a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes ranging from 1 to 3 times the total content by weight of linear C11-C13 alkanes relative to the total weight of linear C9-C14 alkanes.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, are chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Poly glyceryl-10 Dioleate, Poly glyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from the group consisting of by Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Poly g ly eery 1-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises an ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid and an ester of polyglycerol and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, chosen from the group consisting of: - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Poly glyceryl-10 Dioleate - Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate and mixtures thereof, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total content of polyglycerol esters and optionally (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid ranges from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises: (i) A mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a mixture of linear C11-C13 alkanes, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) A Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (iii) Pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably with a C9-C12 alkane content greater than the C11-C13 alkane content and a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate content greater than the Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate content.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the total content of pigments and fillers will range from 12 to 30% by weight, in particular from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher or a concealer.

13. Cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the application to said keratin material of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

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