Cosmetic or dermatological compositions having a cushion effect and moderate-to-low pilling

Abstract

Carboxymethyl starch is a gelling or thickening agent which can be used to obtain cosmetic or dermatological compositions having a cushion effect. However, this starch has the disadvantage of pilling during application to the skin and / or after drying. The present application provides a solution for reducing pilling by combining an oil and a selected surfactant.

Description

Description Title: Cosmetic or dermatological compositions with a cushion effect exhibiting moderate to low fluffing Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatological formulations for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, said aqueous phase being gelled by a carboxyalkylated starch. Prior art

[0002] The cushion effect developed by carboxyalkylated starches, in particular carboxymethylated starches, in aqueous gels or oil-in-water emulsions, is known, as presented in the applicant's application FR3094221. Technical problem

[0003] Used as thickening agents or gelling agents in aqueous gels or emulsions, particularly oil-in-water emulsions, carboxymethyl starch advantageously makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic or dermatological composition giving a so-called "cushion effect" sensation when applied to the skin. Unfortunately, carboxymethyl starch can also cause a phenomenon known as "linting", which consists of the formation of "fluff", or "pills", on the skin, which prevents a homogeneous and pleasant application, or even causes a very unpleasant sensation.

[0004] This fluffing may occur both when applying said compositions to the skin, i.e. when spreading them on the skin using the fingers of the hand, but also after application, when the composition has penetrated the skin and the skin is subjected to friction, either skin against skin or skin against clothing. In both cases, fluffing should be kept to a minimum so that no residue remains on the skin.

[0005] The present application provides a solution for reducing fluffing during topical application or after drying, or during topical application and after drying, of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a carboxyalkylated starch, in particular carboxymethylated, while maintaining a significant and pleasant cushion effect. Summary of the invention

[0006] A first subject of the present application is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase, dispersed in an aqueous phase, at least one carboxyalkylated starch or a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, and at least one non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactant, and in which the ratio of the quantity of said oily phase to the quantity of said non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactant is in the range from 0.3 to 7. Preferably, said surfactant is a non-ionic or anionic surfactant, and more preferably is a non-ionic surfactant.

[0007] This composition may be an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel, or an aqueous or oily isotrope. Preferably, the composition may be an oil-in-water emulsion or an aqueous isotrope. Most preferably, the composition is an aqueous isotrope.

[0008] The mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch or carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch in said composition may be greater than or equal to 0.1%, or 0.25%, or 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, or 4%, or 5%, or 6%, or 7%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0009] The mass percentage in the oily phase in said composition may be less than or equal to 15%, or 7%, or 6%, or 5%.

[0010] The mass percentage of said non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactant, relative to the total weight of said composition may be greater than or equal to 1%, or 1.5%, or 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%.

[0011] The carboxyalkylated starch may be chosen from carboxyethylated starches, carboxymethylated starches, carboxypropylated starches, starches carboxybutylated starches, or wherein the carboxyalkylated starch is a carboxymethylated starch. The carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch may be selected from crosslinked carboxyethylated starches, crosslinked carboxymethylated starches, crosslinked carboxypropylated starches, crosslinked carboxybutylated starches, or the carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch is a crosslinked carboxymethylated starch.

[0012] The anionic surfactant may be chosen from the salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and C5-C30 fatty acid.

[0013] The non-ionic surfactant can be chosen from: - alkyl glucosides, - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, - polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, - polyglycerol esters, - mixtures consisting of at least one sorbitan ester, at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid and at least one carboxylic acid ester, - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated silicones.

[0014] The non-ionic surfactant may be selected from sorbitan esters, fatty acid polyglyceryls, citric acid diesters, or mixtures thereof.

[0015] The oily phase may comprise at least one oil chosen from oils of natural origin, in particular vegetable oils, and mineral oils, silicones, preferably the oily phase consists of at least one oil of natural origin, in particular vegetable oil. Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, - non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, linear volatile silicone oils, - or volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from ethers having a maximum of 16 carbon atoms.

[0016] The oily phase may comprise at least 50% by weight of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, preferably at least 75%, preferably at least 90%, and most preferably consists of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids.

[0017] The vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid may comprise between 15 and 85% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acid. Preferably, the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid comprises: - less than 25% by weight of saturated fatty acid, - and / or less than 70% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acid.

[0018] The oily phase may comprise less than 50% by weight of vegetable oil, or less than 40%, or less than 30%, or less than 20%, or less than 10%, or less than 5%, or less than 1%, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0019] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may be a cream gel comprising a carboxyalkylated starch, a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, and a non-ionic surfactant as a gelling system of said composition.

[0020] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may also comprise at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from detergent surfactants, cationic polymers, pigments, dyes, nacres, and silicas.

[0021] It can come in the form of a cream, gel, or cream-gel. It can be used as a shower gel, body wash, shampoo, or hair conditioner.

[0022] Another subject of the present application is an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream gel, comprising: - at least one carboxyalkylated starch, preferably carboxymethylated, - at least one oil, preferably macadamia oil - and at least one non-ionic surfactant, wherein the ratio of the amount of said oil to the amount of said surfactant is in the range from 0.3 to 7. Brief description of the drawings

[0023] Other characteristics, details and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description below, and on analyzing the figures appended below, in which:

[0024] [Fig. 1] shows the sensory evaluation limits for the criterion “fluffiness on application”.

[0025] [Fig. 2] shows the sensory evaluation limits for the criterion “fluffiness after drying”. Detailed description

[0026] Cosmetic or dermatological composition

[0027] The cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application may be a dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, said dispersion being stabilized by at least one non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactant, and may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, an oil-in-water microemulsion, an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, or an aqueous isotrope. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an oil-in-water emulsion or an aqueous isotrope, preferably an aqueous isotrope. Preferably, the surfactant is a non-ionic or anionic surfactant, more preferably a non-ionic surfactant.

[0028] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may also be a dispersion of an aqueous phase in an oily phase, said dispersion being stabilized by at least one non-ionic, cationic or anionic surfactant, and may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, a water-in-oil microemulsion, a water-in-oil nanoemulsion, or an oily isotrope.

[0029] According to the subject of the present application, the ratio of the mass of the oily phase to the mass of the non-ionic, cationic or anionic surfactant is within a range from 0.3 to 7, or from 0.5 to 6, or from 0.75 to 5, or from 1 to 4, or from 1.25 to 3, or from 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2. Preferably, it is the ratio of the mass of the oily phase to the mass of the non-ionic surfactant or anionic which is in a range from 0.3 to 7, or from 0.5 to 6, or from 0.75 to 5, or from 1 to 4, or from 1.25 to 3, or from 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2. More preferably, it is the ratio of the mass of the oily phase to the mass of the non-ionic surfactant which is in a range from 0.3 to 7, or from 0.5 to 6, or from 0.75 to 5, or from 1 to 4, or from 1.25 to 3, or from 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2.

[0030] When the cosmetic or dermatological composition is a dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, the oily phase represents from 0.5% to 65% by weight, and the aqueous phase represents from 25% to 99.5% by weight, these percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, when the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous isotrope, the oily phase represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or from 0.5% to 7% by weight, or from 0.5% to 6% by weight, or from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition; and the aqueous phase represents from 75% to 99.5% by weight, or from 83% to 99.5% by weight, or from 84% to 99.5% by weight, or from 85% to 99.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0031] When the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous isotrope, it may have the form of a gel or a cream gel. When it is an oil-in-water emulsion, it may have the form of a fluid or thick cream. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application is a gel or a cream gel, preferably a cream gel.

[0032] The cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of this application can be used as a shower gel, washing gel, shampoo, or hair conditioner.

[0033] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream gel, comprising: - at least one carboxyalkylated starch or one carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, preferably carboxymethylated or carboxymethylated and crosslinked, - at least one oil, preferably macadamia oil, - and at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably a mixture consisting of a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid and a carboxylic acid ester, most preferably a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, in which the ratio of the quantity of said oil to the quantity of said surfactant is in the range from 0.3 to 7.

[0034] Physiologically acceptable environment

[0035] By “physiologically acceptable environment” we mean an environment compatible with keratin materials and in particular the skin, lips, scalp, eyelashes, eyes and / or hair.

[0036] Aqueous phase

[0037] The aqueous phase useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application comprises water, demineralized or potable, and at least one carboxyalkylated starch, or a carboxyalkylated and pregelatinized starch, or a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch.

[0038] The mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch, pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starch, or carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, relative to the total weight of said composition, is greater than or equal to 0.1%, or 0.25%, or 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, or 4%, or 5%, or 6%, or 7%. In addition, the mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch, pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starch, or carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, relative to the total weight of said composition, is less than or equal to 20%, or 18%, or 16%, or 14%, or 12%, or 10%, or 8%. Preferably, the mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch, pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starch, or carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, is from 0.1 to 20%, or from 0.25 to 18%, or from 0.5 to 16%, or from 1 to 14%, or from 2 to 12%, or from 3 to 10%, or from 4 to 8%, or from 5 to 8%, or from 6 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.In the case where several pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starches are present, the mass percentage of pregelatinized starch is the sum of the mass percentages of all the pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starches present. In the case where several starches. carboxyalkylated starches are present, the mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch is the sum of the mass percentages of all carboxyalkylated starches present, i.e. the sum of carboxyalkylated starches, carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starches and carboxyalkylated and pregelatinized starches.

[0039] Carboxyalkylated starch

[0040] The starch useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application is a carboxyalkylated starch, or a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch. This starch fulfills the function of gelling agent for the aqueous phase. It also fulfills the function of sensory agent with a cushion effect.

[0041] The starch may be corn, potato, wheat, rice, pea, oat, lentil, fava, broad bean, chickpea, cassava, or combinations thereof.

[0042] By "carboxyalkylated", the applicant means a starch that has been chemically modified by at least one carboxyalkylation. By "carboxyalkylation" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant in particular, without this list being limiting, any chemical modification capable of replacing all or part of the hydroxyl groups O-H of the starch with groups of the type O-(CH2)n-COOH, of the type O-(CH2)n-COOX, of the type O-CH-COOH-(CH2)m-COOH, or of the type O-CH-COOH-(CH2)m-COOX in which: - n is equal to zero (cyanidation reaction) or greater, preferably between 1 (carboxymethylation reaction) and 4 (carboxybutylation reaction) and most preferably equal to 1 (carboxymethylation) or 2 (carboxyethylation reaction or cyanoethylation reaction) - m is greater than zero and in particular equal to 1 (carboxyalkylation using chloromalonic acid for example), - X is a cation, preferably monovalent, chosen in particular from the group comprising sodium, potassium and lithium, in particular sodium and potassium, sodium being generally preferred.

[0043] According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch is chosen from carboxymethylated, carboxyethylated, carboxypropylated starches, or a mixture of these. The carboxyalkylated starch useful in the invention may also have been modified by at least two chemical carboalkylation modifications, preferably chosen from carboxymethylation, carboxyethylation, carboxypropylation.

[0044] Particularly advantageously, the carboxyalkylation consists of a carboxymethylation reaction using monochloroacetic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium monochloroacetate.

[0045] According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch is also a pregelatinized starch. It can then be chosen from carboxymethylated and pregelatinized starches, carboxyethylated and pregelatinized starches, carboxypropylated and pregelatinized starches, or mixtures thereof.

[0046] Examples of carboxymethylated starches useful in the invention are Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 marketed by Roquette Frères, or Vivastar® or Explotab® from JRS Pharma.

[0047] Carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch

[0048] According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch useful for the subject of the present application is a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch. The carboxyalkylated starch can be crosslinked by a crosslinking agent chosen from polyfunctional acids, polyacid anhydrides, or polyfunctional basic organic molecules, as well as their metal salts.

[0049] Polyfunctional acids that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch may be polycarboxylic acids, such as citric acid, or polyphosphoric acids, such as triphosphoric acid; Anhydrides of polyacids that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch may be mixed polyacid anhydrides such as mixed adipic-acetic anhydride. Polyfunctional basic organic molecules that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch may be polyphosphates. Their metal salts may be sodium, manganese, calcium, manganese, iron, copper, zinc salts. A preferred variant of crosslinking agent is sodium salts of polyacids, such as sodium trimetaphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate. Other crosslinking agents that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch may be aldehydes polyfunctional, such as glyoxal; halogenated epoxides, such as epichlorohydrin; aliphatic or aromatic diisocyanates, whose alkyl chain has less than 8 carbon atoms, such as hexamethylene diisocyanate; oxohalides, such as phosphorus oxychloride.

[0050] According to one embodiment, the ratio of the amount of carboxyalkylated starch to the sum of the amount of the oily phase and the non-ionic, cationic or anionic surfactant, preferably non-ionic or anionic, more preferably non-ionic, is in the range from 0.2 to 5, preferably from 0.4 to 3.5, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5. In the case where several carboxyalkylated starches are present, the amount of carboxyalkylated starch is the sum of the amounts of all the carboxyalkylated starches present, i.e. the sum of the carboxyalkylated starches, carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starches and carboxyalkylated and pregelatinized starches. Similarly, when several oils are present, the amount of the oily phase is the sum of the amounts of the oils present.Similarly, when more than one nonionic, cationic or anionic surfactant is present, the amount of nonionic, cationic or anionic surfactant is the sum of the amounts of nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and anionic surfactants.

[0051] Non-ionic surfactant

[0052] The non-ionic surfactant useful in the composition which is the subject of the present application fulfills the function of solubilizing or emulsifying surfactant of the oily phase in the aqueous phase. It has an HLB greater than or equal to 8, or 9, or 10, or 11, or 12. It can be chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, or from sorbitan esters, fatty acid polyglyceryls, citric acid diesters, alkyl polyglycosides, modified silicones, or mixtures thereof. Thus it can be chosen from:

[0053] - alcohols, diols, alpha-diols and alkyl(C1-C20)phenols, being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups of which can range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups of which can range from 2 to 30,

[0054] - alcohols, diols, alpha-diols and alkyl(C1-C20)phenols comprising at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular among alcohols comprising at least one alkyl chain in C8 to C40, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, or mixtures of said alcohols, diols, alpha-diols, alkyl(C1-C20)phenols oxyethylenated, among which mention will be made of: ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol in C8-C40, for example pentaethylene glycol and monooleyl ether, such as the one marketed under the INCI name “Oleth-5”, or the ether of polyethylene glycol and ricinoleic alcohol comprising 40 moles of ethylene oxide,such as the one marketed under the INCI name “PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil” and which is hydrogenated and oxyethylenated castor oil,

[0055] - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols,

[0056] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4,

[0057] - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; said fatty chain being linked by an ester function to the ethoxylated sorbitan group, may consist of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (known as Polysorbate-20), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate (known as Polysorbate-40), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (known as Polysorbate-60), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (known as the name Polysorbate-80), polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate (known as Polysorbate-85),

[0058] - sucrose fatty acid esters,

[0059] - polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated, having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0060] - N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives,

[0061] - amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides;

[0062] - polyglycerol esters, also called "fatty acid polyglyceryls", which may be mono-, di-, or triesters of C6-C40 fatty acids and polyglycerol having from 2 to 100 glycerol monomers, or preferably mono-, di-, triesters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyglycerol having from 4 to 20 glycerol monomers, or more preferably mono-esters of C8-C10 fatty acids and polyglycerol having from 4 to 10 glycerol monomers, among which we will cite for example the monoester of dodecanoic acid and decaglycerol, also known under the name "polyglyceryl-10 laurate", the monoester of dodecanoic acid and tetraglycerol, also known under the name "polyglyceryl-4 laurate", the monoester of decanoic acid and tetraglycerol, also known as “polyglyceryl-4 caprate”;

[0063] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated silicones, which may be polydimethylsiloxanes modified by polyglycols, i.e. by ethylene oxide and / or by propylene oxide, among which we will cite for example PEG-12 Dimethicone,

[0064] - and their mixtures.

[0065] According to one embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application is a mixture comprising, preferably consisting of, a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid and a citric acid diester. A non-ionic surfactant according to this embodiment is a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl- 4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, for example that marketed under the reference “Tego® Care LTP” by the company Evonik Personal Care.

[0066] The non-ionic surfactant can also be chosen from alkyl polyglycosides, and designated by the acronym APG. These non-ionic surfactants are well known in themselves. Patent FR 2 948 285 presents them in terms of structure, and explains how to prepare them. They can be represented by the following general formula (I): R1 -O-(R2-O)p-(S)n,

[0067] in which: - S represents a reducing saccharide, which can contain between 5 and 6 carbon atoms, - R1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical containing approximately 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl group contains approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 denotes an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - n denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, - p denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10.

[0068] By reducing saccharide, we mean in formula (I), the saccharide derivatives which do not have in their structures a glycosidic bond established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as they are defined in the reference work: "Biochemistry", Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990. The oligomeric structure (S)n, can be present in any form of isomerism, whether optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or positional isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.

[0069] In the definition of compounds of formula (I), S represents a reducing saccharide chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran or tallose and more particularly a reducing saccharide chosen from glucose, xylose or arabinose.

[0070] A first preferred variant of alkyl polyglycosides according to the present invention are C12-C20 alkyl polyglycosides, i.e. compounds of formula (I) in which: - R1 more particularly denotes a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 12 to 20 carbon atoms - p takes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to zero, - S denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and more preferably glucose.

[0071] Preferably, the alkyl polyglycoside surfactant is an alkyl polyglucoside surfactant, i.e. an alkyl polyglycoside surfactant where S is a glucose. The glucosidic bonds between the glucose units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Particularly preferred are C6 / C16-alkyl-1,4-polyglucosides, C6 / C12-alkyl-1,4-polyglucosides, and in particular decylglucosides, dodecylglucosides, heptylglucosides also called heptyl glucosides, caprylyl glucosides, capryl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides. Another preferred variant of alkyl polyglucosides according to the present invention are the C12-C20 alkyl glucosides of the first preferred variant in which: - R1 more particularly denotes a linear alkyl radical comprising approximately 12 to 20 carbon atoms - p is equal to zero, - S stands for glucose.

[0072] Alkyl polyglucosides of formula (I) are commercially available under the names: Plantacare® 810 UP (R1 is C8-C10 / INCI: caprylyl / capryl glucoside), Plantacare® 818 UP (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: Coco-glucoside), Plantacare® 2000 UP (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: decyl glucoside) and Plantacare® 1200 UP (R1 is C12-C16 / INCI: lauryl glucoside) sold by BASF; Macanol® 810 (R1 is C8-C10), Macanol® 1200 (R1 is C12-C14), Macanol® 816 (mixture of R1 is C8, C10, C12, C14, C16) sold by FCI Technology; Neocare MF 0718 (R1 is C8-C10 / INCI: caprylyl / capryl glucoside), Neocare MF 0012 (R1 is C12-C14 / INCI: lauryl glucoside), Neocare MF 0002 (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: decyl glucoside), Neocare MF 818 (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: coco glucoside) sold by the company Neochem; Tego Care CG 90 (R1 is C14-C16 I INCI: cetearyl glucoside) sold by the company Evonik Healthcare; products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAM IX® CG 110 (INCI: Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside) and ORAMIX™ NS 10 (INCI: Decyl Glucoside); products sold by the company BASF under the name Glucopon® GD 70 (INCI: C10C12-Alkyl polyglucoside).

[0073] The naturally occurring non-ionic surfactant may be a mixture consisting of at least one alkyl polyglycoside and at least one fatty alcohol. In these mixtures, the alkyl polyglycosides may be chosen from all the alkyl polyglycosides described above. Regarding fatty alcohols, linear or branched fatty alcohols will be found having a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 8 to 24. Mixtures of alkyl glycosides and fatty alcohols useful for the invention and commercially available are those sold by the company SEPPIC: Montanov™ 14 (INCI: Myristyl Alcohol & Myristyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 68 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 82 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-Glucoside), Montanov™ S (INCI: Coco-Glucoside & Coconut Alcohol), Montanov™ L (INCI: C14-22 Alcohols & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside).

[0074] Another variant of alkylglucosides useful for the invention is an alkyl glucoside of formula R1 -O-(R2-O)p-(S)n in which S is a glucose, R1 denotes a linear alkyl radical of 6 to 18 carbon atoms, n is equal to 1, and p is equal to 0. Another variant of alkylglucosides useful for the invention is a mixture of a first alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and a second alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having two additional carbon atoms compared to said first alkyl glucoside.

[0075] The non-ionic surfactant may further be chosen from alkyl polyglycosides, preferably alkyl polyglucosides, with HLB, according to the Griffin scale, greater than or equal to 10, or greater than or equal to 12, or greater than or equal

[0076] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application is a non-ionic surfactant which is liquid at room temperature.

[0077] When several non-ionic surfactants useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application are present, the HLB resulting from the HLBs of all said non-ionic surfactants is within a range from 8 to 20, or from 10 to 18, or from 12 to 18, or from 14 to 18.

[0078] The mass percentage of said non-ionic surfactant relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition is greater than or equal to 1%, or 1.5%, or 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%. In addition, this percentage is less than or equal to 20%, or 18%, or 16%, or 14%, or 12%, or 10%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of said non-ionic surfactant is 0.5 to 10%, or 1 to 7%, or 1.5 to 5%, or 2 to 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0079] Cationic surfactant

[0080] The cationic surfactant useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application may be chosen from C16 to C22 alkylquaterniums, for example cetrimonium chloride, or from estersquaternium or amidoamines.

[0081] The mass percentage of said cationic surfactant relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition is greater than or equal to 1%, or 1.5%, or 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%. In addition, this percentage is less than or equal to 20%, or 18%, or 16%, or 14%, or 12%, or 10%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of said cationic surfactant is 0.5 to 10%, or 1 to 7%, or 1.5 to 5%, or 2 to 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0082] Anionic surfactant

[0083] The anionic surfactant useful in the composition which is the subject of the present application fulfills the function of solubilizing or emulsifying surfactant of the oily phase in the aqueous phase. It has an HLB greater than or equal to 8, or 9, or 10, or 11, or 12. It can be chosen from the salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and fatty acid in C5-C30, preferably in C10-C25, more preferably in C15-C20, and most preferably in C18, for example Sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0084] The mass percentage of said anionic surfactant relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition is greater than or equal to 1%, or 1.5%, or 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%. In addition, this percentage is less than or equal to 20%, or 18%, or 16%, or 14%, or 12%, or 10%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of said anionic surfactant is 0.5 to 10%, or 1 to 7%, or 1.5 to 5%, or 2 to 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0085] Oily phase

[0086] The oily phase useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application comprises at least one oil and / or at least one wax. The mass percentage of said oily phase in said cosmetic or dermatological composition is less than or equal to 75%, or 50%, or 40%, or 30%, or 20%.

[0087] The oily phase may also represent a mass percentage in said cosmetic or dermatological composition less than or equal to 15%, or 7%, or 6%, or 5%, and preferably simultaneously greater than or equal to 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, the mass percentage in oily phase in said composition is 0.5 to 15%, or 1 to 7%, or 2 to 6%, or 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The cosmetic or dermatological composition may then be in the form of an aqueous isotrope.

[0088] The oily phase may comprise at least 50% by weight of a vegetable or natural oil, or at least 75%, or at least 90%, or at least 95%, or at least 99%. Preferably, the oily phase consists of a vegetable or natural oil, preferably a vegetable oil, and more preferably a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids.

[0089] Oil

[0090] The oil included in, or constituting, the oily phase useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application, plays a key role in reducing fluffing after drying. It can also simultaneously fulfill the function of an emollient agent or moisturizing agent for the skin. It can be chosen from volatile oils or non-volatile oils, preferably from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile polar vegetable hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile silicone oils, or volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, more preferably from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, preferably non-volatile polar vegetable hydrocarbon oils or those of natural origin.

[0091] The term “oil” means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0092] Non-volatile oils

[0093] Non-volatile means oils whose vapour pressure is less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa (measurement according to OECD standard 104 of 27 / 07 / 95). The non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar or apolar, as well as mixtures thereof; and preferably from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from ester oils, in particular described in sections (2) to (4.9) below, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, in particular described in section (4.10) alone or in mixtures.

[0094] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. The oil hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil. By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0095] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0096] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are non-volatile hydrocarbon oils containing alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, these oils are free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus. In the present case, they comprise at least one oxygen atom. In particular, they comprise at least one alcohol function (in which case it is an “alcohol oil”) or at least one ester function (in which case it is an “ester oil”). Ester oils may be hydroxylated.

[0097] The oil useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application is chosen from the following polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils:

[0098] (1) C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols: C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or natural, such as alcohols from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.). Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as ether alcohols or so-called Guerbet alcohols. Finally, we can also use certain more or less long cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as, for example, coconut (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18) or compounds such as diols or cholesterol.As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used preferably, mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

[0099] (2) monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol. In particular: (2.1) monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, (2.2) diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, (2.3) triesters of a C2-C8 tricarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acety Itributy I citrate, tributy I citrate.

[0100] (3) esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids: such as glycol monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol monoacid triesters such as triacetin.

[0101] (4) ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms: examples include mono-, di- or triesters. Ester oils may be hydroxylated or not. The non-volatile ester oil may be chosen, for example, from:

[0102] (4.1) monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula R1 -COO-R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 +R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearate isostearyl, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate. Preferably, these are esters of formula R1 -COO-R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being 10 such that R1 +R2 is greater than or equal to 17. Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total. Preferred monoesters include isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate.

[0103] (4.2) fatty acid monoesters, in particular of 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monostearate.

[0104] (4.3) diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate; or diesters of monocarboxylic acid and dialcohols, such as 1,3-propanediyl ester of octanoic acid (or propanediol dicaprylate), sold under the name DUB ZENOAT by the company Stéarinerie Dubois; or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo);

[0105] (4.4) hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate;

[0106] (4.5) triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0107] (4.6) tetraesters and pentaesters, in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra-2-decyl tetradecanoate; and such as pentaesters of dipentaerythrityl and a monocarboxylic acid, for example dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, marketed under the name DUB VINYL by Stéarinerie Dubois,

[0108] (4.7) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may be made in particular of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA;

[0109] (4.8) esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular obtainable from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular C8 to C34, in particular C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, and more particularly C18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

[0110] (4.9) polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated such as oil castor oil, succinic acid and isostearic acid marketed under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech;

[0111] (4.10) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), vegetable oil extracted from coconut (which is composed of Caprylic / Capric triglyceride), jojoba oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, as well as unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;and other vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as Japanese Camellia seed oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, tsubaki oil, cashew nut oil, argan oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil (rich in oleic acid (monounsaturated) and linoleic acid (di-unsaturated acid)).;

[0112] (4.11) and mixtures thereof, such as oils consisting of a mixture of C8-C10 fatty acid monoesters and C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as MIGLYOL Coco 810 from IOI Oleo GmbH (INCI name: coco-Capyrlate / Caprate).

[0113] Preferably, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total, pentaesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, and from vegetable hydrocarbon oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0114] Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0115] With regard to non-volatile apolar oils, also called "mineral oils" because they come from the distillation of fossil fuels such as petroleum or coal, we can particularly mention paraffin oil, squalane, pentadecane, nonadecane, eicosane, isoeicosane, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, as well as their mixtures. These oils are composed of hydrocarbons, mainly alkanes or alkenes with 15 to 40 carbon atoms. An example of a mixture of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils is the product Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, which is a mixture of C15-C19 alkanes. Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil which is paraffin.

[0116] Non-volatile silicone oils

[0117] As regards non-volatile silicone oils, examples that may be mentioned are non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone, or phenylated oils, such as polyphenylmethylsiloxane. Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from linear non-phenylated silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane.

[0118] Phenyl silicone oils may also be mentioned, such as diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylenated group(s) (oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated), nor any glycerol group(s).

[0119] Volatile oils

[0120] By "volatile oil" is meant oils having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa), in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa. Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone.

[0121] Among the volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may in particular be made of branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and is in particular isohexadecane.Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, such as Cetiol Ultimate from BASF, the mixtures of n-undecane (CH) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures, as well as ethers having a maximum of 16 carbon atoms, such as for example dioctyl ether also known under the name "dicaprylyl ether" ", polypropylene glycol butyl ether containing 14 propylene units, also referred to as "PPG-14 butyl ether".

[0122] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. As volatile cyclic silicone oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane.

[0123] Waxes:

[0124] The oily phase useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application may comprise at least one silicone wax, or one hydrocarbon wax, polar or apolar. The wax is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 30°C, more particularly greater than 45°C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90°C, more particularly less than or equal to 80°C, and preferably less than or equal to 70°C. The melting point of a solid fatty substance may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”.

[0125] The measurement protocol is as follows: A solid fat sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule". The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 2°C / minute up to 80°C, then left at the isotherm of 100°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C / minute. The melting temperature value of the solid fat is the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0126] Polar hydrocarbon waxes

[0127] More particularly, the polar wax is chosen from hydrocarbon ester waxes, hydrocarbon alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof. The term “hydrocarbon wax” means a wax formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. The term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated. The term “alcohol wax” means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). The additional alcohol wax does not in particular comprise an ester function. By “silicone wax” is meant a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

[0128] Ester waxes:

[0129] In particular, the following can be used as ester wax:

[0130] i) waxes of formula R1 -COO-R2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 30°C to 120°C, preferably from 30°C to 100°C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "KESTER WAX K82H" by the company KOSTER KEIINEN. Mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax 814" from the company KOSTER KEIINEN, "SP Crodamol MS MBAL", "Crodamol MS PA" from the company CRODA, "Miraceti" from the company LASERSON.It is also possible to use a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by Clariant.

[0131] ii) di-(trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0132] iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear or branched and may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0133] iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, mention may be made of those sold under the name “PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57”.

[0134] (v) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.

[0135] vi) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units may vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylenate, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower wax, and blends thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.

[0136] vii) Waxes corresponding to partial or total, preferably total, esters of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. By total esters, it is meant that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as for example Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties.

[0137] (viii) as well as their mixtures.

[0138] Alcohol waxes

[0139] As alcohol wax, mention may be made of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, the melting point of which is between 25°C and 90°C. As examples of alcohol wax, mention may be made of stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0140] Non-polar hydrocarbon waxes

[0141] The wax may be chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes. The term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free of other atoms, in particular heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, silicon. As illustrations of the apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, in particular polyethylene.

[0142] Silicone waxes

[0143] Examples of silicone waxes that may be mentioned include: mixtures comprising a compound of type C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), such as the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax marketed by Dow Corning; mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone type (INCI name), such as the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax; mixtures comprising a compound of the C20-24 alkyl methicone type, such as SeraSoft SW 73 from KCC Beauty; mixtures comprising a compound of the C26-28 alkyl methicone type, such as Belsil® CDM 3526 VP and Belsil® CM 7026 VP from Wacker. Silicone beeswax may also be mentioned.

[0144] The cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application may comprise a content of wax(es), preferably polar wax(es), preferably polar hydrocarbon wax(es), of between 0.5 and 10% by weight, or from 0.5 to 6% by weight, or from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition.

[0145] Vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids

[0146] By "vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid" is meant a vegetable oil, or oil of vegetable origin, which comprises between 15 and 95% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acid, the expression "in monounsaturated fatty acid" meaning "in one monounsaturated fatty acid" or "in at least one monounsaturated fatty acid", preferably between 30 and 90%, more preferably between 50 and 85%, relative to the total weight of said oil. This oil may also comprise less than 25% by weight of saturated fatty acid, the expression "in saturated fatty acid" meaning "in one saturated fatty acid" or "in at least one saturated fatty acid", and / or less than 70% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acid, relative to the total weight of said oil, the expression "in polyunsaturated fatty acid" meaning "in one polyunsaturated fatty acid" or "in at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid".

[0147] The monounsaturated fatty acid may be oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, gadoleic acid (or 11-eicosenoic acid), or mixtures thereof. The polyunsaturated fatty acid may be linoleic acid, alpha-linoleic acid, or mixtures thereof. The saturated fatty acid may be palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0148] Vegetable oils rich in monounsaturated fatty acid useful in the composition which is the subject of the present application are macadamia oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, sunflower seed oil. According to one embodiment, the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid is macadamia oil.

[0149] Embodiments of the composition according to the invention

[0150] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, - non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, linear volatile silicone oils, - or volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from ethers having a maximum of 16 carbon atoms.

[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from non-volatile apolar oils, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, or non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils.

[0152] According to a more preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from non-volatile apolar oils or vegetable hydrocarbon oils.

[0153] According to a more preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from non-volatile apolar oils or vegetable oils rich in monounsaturated fatty acids.

[0154] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon vegetable oils with the exception of olive oil, - non-volatile linear polar non-vegetable hydrocarbon oils, - linear non-volatile silicone oils, preferably non-phenylated, - volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils of the ether type having a single ether function. This embodiment allows to achieve a cushion effect ranging from 6.5 to 8.5 together with a fluffing on application of less than or equal to 5 and a fluffing after drying of less than or equal to 5.

[0155] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon vegetable oils with the exception of olive oil and sunflower oil, - linear non-volatile silicone oils, preferably non-phenylated. This embodiment allows a cushion effect ranging from 7 to 8.5 to be achieved together with a fluffiness on application of less than or equal to 5 and a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 4.

[0156] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon vegetable oils with the exception of olive oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, and caprylyl / capryl triglyceride. This embodiment makes it possible to achieve a cushion effect ranging from 7 to 8.5 together with a fluffiness on application of less than or equal to 4.5 and a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 2.75.

[0157] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - fatty acid triglycerides, macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, - linear non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, or linear non-volatile silicone oils, - or volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from ethers having a maximum of 16 carbon atoms.

[0158] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - saturated triglycerides, macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, - linear non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, preferably non-phenylated linear non-volatile silicone oils, - or volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from ethers having a maximum of 16 carbon atoms.

[0159] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - saturated triglycerides, macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, - or non-phenylated linear non-volatile silicone oils or linear non-volatile silicone oils.

[0160] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, - non-phenylated linear non-volatile silicone oils or linear volatile silicone oils.

[0161] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, - non-phenylated linear non-volatile silicone oils.

[0162] According to one embodiment, the oil useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application is chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, or jojoba oil.

[0163] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - paraffin oil, - caprylic / capric triglyceride, macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, - dimethicone, - or dioctyl ether. This embodiment allows to achieve a cushion effect ranging from 6.5 to 8.5 together with a fluffing on application of less than or equal to 5 and a fluffing after drying of less than or equal to 5.

[0164] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - paraffin oil, - macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, - or dimethicone. This embodiment allows a cushion effect ranging from 7 to 8.5 to be achieved together with a fluffiness on application of less than or equal to 5 and a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 3.5.

[0165] According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from: - paraffin oil, - macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, or jojoba oil. This embodiment makes it possible to achieve a cushion effect ranging from 7 to 8.5 together with a fluffiness on application of less than or equal to 4.5 and a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 2.75.

[0166] According to one embodiment, the surfactant is non-ionic and is chosen from: - alkyl glucosides, - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, - polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, - polyglycerol esters, - mixtures consisting of at least one sorbitan ester, at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid and at least one carboxylic acid ester, preferably mixtures consisting of a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid and a carboxylic acid ester, and most preferably a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated silicones.

[0167] According to one embodiment, the surfactant is chosen from: - salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and C5-C30 fatty acid, - alkyl glucosides, - polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, - mixtures consisting of at least one sorbitan ester, at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid and at least one carboxylic acid ester, preferably mixtures consisting of a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid and a carboxylic acid ester, and most preferably a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate.

[0168] According to one embodiment, the surfactant is anionic and is chosen from the salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and C5-C30 fatty acid.

[0169] According to one embodiment, the surfactant is chosen from: - sodium salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and C5-C30 fatty acid, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C15-C20, and most preferably C18, - alkyl glucosides of formula R1 -O-(R2-O)p-(S)n in which S is a glucose, R1 denotes a linear alkyl radical of 6 to 18 carbon atoms, n is equal to 1, and p is equal to 0; or a mixture of a first alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and of a second alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having two additional carbon atoms compared to said first alkyl glucoside, - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from one to three fatty chains comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, - C8-C40 polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol ethers, - mono-, di-, or triesters of C6-C40 fatty acids and polyglycerol having from 2 to 100 glycerol monomers, chosen from: mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids at most C8 and polyglycerol having at most 3 glycerol monomers; mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids at most C10 and polyglycerol having 4 glycerol monomers; or mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids at most C12 and polyglycerol having at least 5 glycerol monomers, - mixtures consisting of at least one sorbitan ester, at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl and at least one citric acid diester, preferably mixtures consisting of a sorbitan ester, a fatty acid polyglyceryl and of a carboxylic acid ester, and most preferably a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, - polydimethylsiloxanes modified with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide.

[0170] According to one embodiment, the surfactant is chosen from: - sodium salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and C5-C30 fatty acid, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C15-C20, and most preferably C18, - alkyl glucosides of formula R1 -O-(R2-O)p-(S)n in which S is a glucose, R1 denotes a linear alkyl radical of 6 to 18 carbon atoms, n is equal to 1, and p is equal to 0; or a mixture of a first alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and of a second alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having two additional carbon atoms compared to said first alkyl glucoside, - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having at least 5 ethylene oxide units and one to three fatty chains comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably having between 5 and 40 ethylene oxide units and one to three fatty chains comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, even more preferably having 20 ethylene oxide units and one to three fatty chains comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and most preferably having 20 ethylene oxide units and one fatty chain comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, - C8-C40 polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol ethers, - mono-, di-, or triesters of C6-C40 fatty acids and polyglycerol having from 2 to 100 glycerol monomers, chosen from: mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids at most C8 and polyglycerol having at most 3 glycerol monomers; mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids at most C10 and polyglycerol having 4 glycerol monomers; or mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids at most C12 and polyglycerol having at least 5 glycerol monomers, - mixtures consisting of at least one sorbitan ester, at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid and at least one citric acid diester, preferably mixtures consisting of a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid and a carboxylic acid ester, and most preferably a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, - polydimethylsiloxanes modified with ethylene oxide having at least 12 ethylene oxide units.

[0171] According to one embodiment, the surfactant is chosen from: - sodium salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and C5-C30 fatty acid, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C15-C20, and most preferably C18, - alkyl glucosides of formula R1 -O-(R2-O)p-(S)n in which S is a glucose, R1 denotes a linear alkyl radical of 8 to 10 carbon atoms, n is equal to 1, and p is equal to 0; or a mixture of an alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, and of an alkyl glucoside in which R1 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 10 carbon atoms, - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having 20 ethylene oxide units and a fatty chain comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, - mixtures consisting of a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid and a carboxylic acid ester, and most preferably a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate. This embodiment makes it possible to achieve a cushion effect ranging from 6.25 to 8.25 together with a fluffiness on application of less than or equal to 3.75 and a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 1.75.

[0172] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, heptyl glucoside, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate-20), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate-80), polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate-85), PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, polyethylene glycol and ricinoleic alcohol ether comprising 40 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil), dodecanoic acid and decaglycerol monoester (polyglyceryl-10 laurate), decanoic acid and tetraglycerol monoester (polyglyceryl-4 caprate), pentaethylene glycol and monooleyl ether (oleth-5), Tego Care LTP MB, oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxane (PEG-12 dimethicone). This embodiment achieves a cushion effect ranging from 6.25 to 8.25 in conjunction with an application fluffiness of less than or equal to 4.75 and a drying fluffiness of less than or equal to 4.0.

[0173] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, heptyl glucoside, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate, polyethylene glycol ricinoleic alcohol ether comprising 40 moles of ethylene oxide, dodecanoic acid decaglycerol monoester, decanoic acid tetraglycerol monoester, pentaethylene glycol monooleyl ether, mixtures of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate. This embodiment makes it possible to achieve a cushion effect ranging from 6.25 to 8.25 together with a fluffiness on application of less than or equal to 4.75 and a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 3.0.

[0174] According to a very preferred embodiment, the surfactant is chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, or polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate. This embodiment makes it possible to achieve a cushion effect ranging from 6.25 to 8.25 together with a fluffiness on application of less than or equal to 3.75 and a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 1.75.

[0175] Effects on sensory profile

[0176] The cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of the present application has the advantage of having a sensory profile characterized by a significant cushioning effect and by moderate fluffing upon application and / or after drying. By "significant cushioning effect" is meant a cushioning effect, measured according to the sensory evaluation method described in the present application, having a score greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 6, greater than or equal to 7, and most preferably greater than or equal to 7.5. By "moderate fluffing upon application" and "moderate fluffing after drying" is meant fluffiness measured according to the sensory evaluation method described in the present application, having a score less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4, preferably less than or equal to 3.

[0177] When applying the cosmetic or dermatological composition, two types of residue may form: wet fluff and / or a film of wet material, which may persist on the skin after application. By "film of wet material" is meant the layer of cosmetic or dermatological composition which has not penetrated the skin, and is therefore spread on the skin more or less homogeneously, and with a thickness of less than approximately 1 mm, preferably less than or equal to approximately 0.5 mm. By "wet fluff" is meant fragments of cosmetic or dermatological composition which have sufficient consistency to be individually visible and felt to the touch, which may be similar to aggregates or agglomerates of the constituents of said composition, and which still have a high water content.

[0178] After the residues formed during application have penetrated or dried, rubbing the skin with the index finger can cause the formation of two types of residue: a “sand” type residue and / or dry fluff. “Sand-type residue” means more or less dry fragments, less than 1 mm in size, which may resemble small scales or fine to very fine sand, and which are felt when rubbed on the skin as a slight exfoliating sensation. “Dry fluff” means low-water aggregates in the form of individualized and well-formed “pills”, containing all or part of the constituents of the cosmetic or dermatological composition. This dry fluff may appear as “sausages” with a length greater than or equal to 2 mm and a width greater than or equal to 0.5 mm.

[0179] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition has: - a cushion effect with a rating greater than or equal to 7, preferably greater than or equal to 7.5 and, - fluffiness on application with a score of less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4.5, and most preferably less than or equal to 4 and, - fluffiness after drying having a score less than or equal to 4, preferably less than or equal to 3, and most preferably less than or equal to 2.5.

[0180] Use of oil and surfactant to reduce fluffing

[0181] Another subject of the present application is the use of an oil and a surfactant for in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one carboxyalkylated starch as a thickening agent for the aqueous phase of said composition, said use being characterized in that the ratio of the mass of the oil to the mass of the surfactant is in a range from 0.3 to 7, or from 0.5 to 6, or from 0.75 to 5, or from 1 to 4, or from 1.25 to 3, or from 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2, and said use making it possible to reduce or eliminate fluffing on application and / or after drying, while maintaining a cushion effect.

[0182] According to one embodiment of this use, it consists of the use of a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil of vegetable or vegetable origin and a non-ionic surfactant. The non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil of vegetable origin may be chosen from vegetable oils rich in monounsaturated fatty acid, macadamia oil, for example macadamia oil. The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from sorbitan esters, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, citric acid diesters, or mixtures thereof, for example the mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and di lauryl citrate, for example that marketed under the reference "Tego® Care LTP" by the company Evonik Personal Care.

[0183] Gelling system with cushion effect and moderate fluffiness

[0184] Another subject matter of the present application is a mixture of a carboxyalkylated starch, a surfactant and an oil as a cushioning gelling or thickening system with moderate fluffing, useful for preparing cosmetic or dermatological compositions having a cushioning effect and moderate fluffing upon application and / or after drying.

[0185] According to one embodiment, the gelling or thickening system with a cushioning and moderate fluffing effect comprises, preferably consists of: - at least one carboxyalkylated starch, preferably chosen from carboxyethylated starches, carboxymethylated starches, carboxypropylated starches, carboxybutylated starches, and most preferably the carboxyalkylated starch is a carboxymethylated starch, - at least one oil, preferably chosen from oils of natural origin, in particular vegetable oils, and mineral oils, silicones, preferably the oily phase consists of at least one oil of natural origin, in particular vegetable oil, - at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants or cationic surfactants.

[0186] In said gelling or thickening system, the ratio of the mass of the oil to the mass of the surfactant is in a range from 0.3 to 7, or from 0.5 to 6, or from 0.75 to 5, or from 1 to 4, or from 1.25 to 3, or from 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2.

[0187] Sensory profile assessment method

[0188] The sensory profile of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the subject of the present application is evaluated by a panel of at least four people who are experts in the sensory analysis of cosmetic products, trained for four months, at the rate of one session per week, to evaluate the following three sensory criteria according to a scale ranging from 0 to 10: the cushion effect, the fluffiness on application, and the fluffiness after drying. The “0” limit of the scale of a sensory criterion corresponds to the minimum value of said criterion, i.e. the weakest sensation for this criterion, and the “10” limit corresponds to the maximum value of said criterion, i.e. the strongest sensation for this criterion.

[0189] The training of the panelists consists of sensory memorization, that is to say the memorization of the sensations felt, when taking in hand and applying to their forearm reference compositions corresponding to the extreme limits of the ranges of the criteria to be evaluated, namely:

[0190] for the "0" terminal of the three criteria evaluated here: the "fluid" terminal of the "EBITouch®" kit for the "cushion effect" criterion, and the bare skin of the inner area of ​​the forearm, with very little or no hair, for fluffing on application and fluffing after drying.

[0191] for terminal "10" of the three criteria evaluated here: an aqueous gel of Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 carboxymethylated starch at 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the gel, and of Beauté by Roquette PO 071 sorbitol at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the gel, prepared in demineralized water according to the following protocol: in demineralized water maintained at 80°C, dissolution of the sorbitol with stirring at 100-200 rpm with a deflocculating blade for 5 minutes, then dispersion of the carboxymethylated starch with stirring at 500-1000 rpm with a deflocculating blade and stirring for 15 minutes at 80°C.

[0192] The three criteria are then evaluated according to the following protocols:

[0193] For the "cushion effect" criterion: it is evaluated when approximately 0.04 grams of reference composition or composition to be evaluated are taken in hand, the composition is placed between the index finger and the thumb, then three pressures are exerted while separating the fingers by no more than 0.5 cm. The "10" limit is described as giving a "bounce" effect, and corresponding to a very elastic composition which retains its consistency. The "0" limit is described as giving no bounce effect, and corresponding to a composition which is not at all elastic, and which is fluid, that is to say which spreads without retaining its consistency.

[0194] For the criterion "linting on application": it is evaluated when applying approximately 0.2 grams of composition to the inside of the forearm. The composition is taken with the index finger and then applied to a rectangular area called "measuring", located on the inside of the forearm, with dimensions of approximately 7 cm in the longitudinal direction, and approximately 5 cm in the transverse direction, by making ten rotations with the tip of the index finger, covering the entire surface and at a speed of approximately one revolution per second. The "10" limit is described as forming a large quantity of wet lint. The rating "4" corresponds to the maximum quantity of residue of the "film of wet material" type persisting on the surface of the skin after application. The “0” limit corresponds to the total absence of wet lint and “wet film” type residue.

[0195] For the criterion "linting after drying": it is evaluated seven minutes after the evaluation of the criterion "linting on application" on the same rectangular area "as is", that is to say in the state in which it is found the evaluation of the criterion "linting on application", therefore after the application of approximately 0.2 grams of composition on the forearm according to the protocol of the criterion "linting on application". The waiting time of seven minutes must allow the penetration and / or drying of the composition which may have persisted in the form of a film of wet material and / or wet lint at the end of the application step. After the seven minutes of waiting, a rubbing movement with the index finger is carried out on the rectangular measurement area, making five back and forth movements in the longitudinal direction of the forearm, and operating with strong pressure on the area concerned.The "0" limit corresponds to the total absence of "sand" type residue and dry fluff. The "4" rating corresponds to a maximum quantity of "sand" type residue. The "6" rating corresponds to the appearance of the first dry fluff, which is generally concomitant with the disappearance of the "sand" type residue, a priori due to its transformation into dry fluff. The "10" limit is described as forming a large quantity of dry fluff.

[0196] To support the training sessions and assessments conducted by the panelists, criteria assessment flowcharts were developed to ensure panelists provided consistent ratings. The following tables summarize the ratings proposed in these guide flowcharts and the associated descriptions. The right-hand column shows the acceptability of the ratings for an average consumer.

[0197] [Table 1]

[0198] [Table 2]

[0200] These tables are also represented in flowchart form in Figures 1, 2 and 3. Examples

[0201] Example 1: Reduction of fluffiness of an aqueous gel of carboxymethylated starch by addition of macadamia oil and Teqo® Care LTP

[0202] In this example, we investigated the impact of the introduction of macadamia oil and a non-ionic surfactant that is liquid at room temperature, Tego® Care LTP from the producer ©Evonik Industries AG, on the sensory profile of an aqueous gel of the carboxymethylated starch Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 (abbreviated as “BBR ST 118”) at 7% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the gel. By experimental screening along two dimensions, namely the macadamia oil content and the Tego® Care LTP content, we determined the sensory profiles of the aqueous gels of BBR ST 118 on the sensory criteria of cushioning effect, fluffiness upon application and fluffiness after drying, according to the method set out in the present application.

[0203] To prepare aqueous gels of BBR ST 118 with different contents of macadamia oil and Tego® Care LTP, we proceeded according to the following protocol, according to the contents displayed in the results tables below: - in demineralized water previously heated to 25°C, disperse the Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 carboxymethyl starch while stirring at 2500 rpm with a deflocculating blade, and maintain stirring and temperature for 15 minutes, - while stirring and at 25°C, simultaneously add the previously mixed oil and surfactant, - keep stirring at 2500 rpm with the deflocculating blade for 10 minutes at 25°C, - add a preservative and homogenize for one minute while stirring.

[0204] Sensory evaluations of each gel were then carried out within one week of preparation to avoid possible variations during storage. The results obtained are presented in the following tables (empty boxes correspond to untested combinations).

[0205] [Table 4]

[0206] According to the results presented in Table 4, macadamia oil alone or Tego Care LTP alone have a slight negative impact on the cushioning effect, for a particular value of macadamia oil content of 2%, and for a Tego Care LTP content of 7%. When combined, macadamia oil and Tego Care LTP cause a decrease in the cushioning effect from at least 2% in oil and from at least 1.5% in Tego Care LTP: the cushioning rating decreases below 8. This is still an acceptable rating, which gives a noticeable cushioning effect.

[0207] [Table s]

[0208] According to the results presented in Table 5, regarding the fluffing on application, the aqueous gel of BBR ST 118 already has a low rating, with a value of 1.6. The introduction of macadamia oil or Tego Care LTP alone, induces an increase in the fluffing on application: the ratings on this criterion reach values ​​close to the acceptable limit of 5, for contents of 5% in oil or 7% in Tego Care LTP. Similarly, the combination macadamia oil and Tego Care LTP also induces an increase in fluffiness upon application, but to a lesser extent, so that a rating of around 3 or 4 is achievable.

[0209] [Table 6]

[0210] According to the results presented in Table 6, regarding post-drying fluffing, macadamia oil alone does not reduce post-drying fluffing, which is rated at 8 up to 5% oil. Tego Care LTP allows a significant reduction in post-drying fluffing from a Tego Care LTP content of at least 3% by weight, reaching ratings below approximately 6. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the combination of macadamia oil and Tego Care LTP allows a very significant reduction in post-drying fluffing. By combining at least 3% oil by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least 1.5% Tego Care LTP by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the fluffing after drying decreases to ratings below 4. Ratings below 2 are even achieved for combinations of at least 5% oil and at least 2.5% Tego Care LTP.

[0211] For these combinations of oil and Tego Care LTP contents, the fluffing on application remains lower than or equal to ratings of 4 or even 3, according to the results in Table 5. In addition, the cushioning effect remains higher than or equal to 7 for these same combinations, which is a completely acceptable rating, indicating a significantly noticeable cushioning effect.

[0212] This example therefore shows that the combination of macadamia oil and the non-ionic surfactant Tego Care LTP helps reduce fluffing after drying, while maintaining fluffiness upon application and cushioning at acceptable levels.

[0213] Example 2: Combinations of Teqo Care LTP with other oils

[0214] In this example, aqueous gels comprising 6 to 8% by weight of BBR ST 118 carboxymethyl starch are evaluated, to which a binary combination of the nonionic surfactant Tego Care LTP and an oil selected from the oils in Table 7-1 is added. Initially, the surfactant content is set at 2.5% by weight, and the oil content at 5% by weight, based on the total weight of a 7% by weight aqueous gel of BBR ST 118. [Table 7-1]

[0215] Each gel was then subjected to a sensory evaluation by the trained panel on the criteria of cushioning effect, fluffing upon application, and fluffing after drying. The results of these sensory evaluations are presented in Table 7-2.

[0216] [Table 7-2]

[0217] The oils from the first line (Orerai oil n°1) to the ninth line (Vegetal oil n°5) all achieve a cushion effect greater than or equal to 6.7 and a fluffiness on application less than 5.0. These same oils allow jointly to achieve a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 5.0. The oils from the tenth line (Vegetal oil no. 6) to the seventeenth line (Alkan oil no. 2) give a fluffiness on application greater than 5, or even 6, and / or a fluffiness after drying greater than 5, and / or form unstable creams.

[0218] Example 3: Combinations of Macadamia Oil with other Surfactants

[0219] In this example, aqueous gels comprising 6 to 8% by weight of BBR ST 118 carboxymethyl starch are evaluated, to which a binary combination of macadamia oil and a surfactant selected from the surfactants in Table 8-1 is added. Initially, the surfactant content is set at 2.5% by weight, and that of the oil at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous gel at 7% by weight of BBR ST 118.

[0220] [Table 8-1]

[0221] Each gel was then subjected to a sensory evaluation by the trained panel on the criteria of cushion effect, fluffing upon application, and fluffing after drying. The results of these sensory evaluations are presented in Table 8-2.

[0222] [Table 8-2]

[0223] The surfactants in the first row (surfactant T19) to the thirteenth row (surfactant T5) all achieve a cushion effect greater than or equal to 6.3 and a fluffiness upon application of less than 5.0. These same surfactants together achieve a fluffiness after drying of less than or equal to 4.0. The surfactants in the fourteenth row (surfactant T16) to the nineteenth row (surfactant T13) give a fluffiness upon application greater than 5, or even 7, and / or a fluffiness after drying greater than 6.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase, dispersed in an aqueous phase, at least one carboxyalkylated starch or a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, and at least one non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactant, preferably at least one non-ionic or anionic surfactant, and in which the ratio of the quantity of said oily phase to the quantity of said non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactant, preferably non-ionic or anionic, is in the range from 0.3 to 7.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel, or an aqueous or oily isotrope, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or an aqueous isotrope.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch, or carboxyalkylated and crosslinked, in said composition is greater than or equal to 0.1%, or 0.25%, or 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, or 4%, or 5%, or 6%, or 7%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

4. Composition according to claim 3, in which the mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch, or carboxyalkylated and crosslinked, is less than or equal to 20%, or 18%, or 16%, or 14%, or 12%, or 10%, or 8%.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the mass percentage in oily phase in said composition is less than or equal to 15%, or 7%, or 6%, or 5%.

6. Composition according to claim 5 in which the mass percentage in oily phase in said composition is greater than or equal to 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. BR898-CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH / COSMETIC / LINTING-WO

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the mass percentage of said non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactant relative to the total weight of said composition is greater than or equal to 1%, or 1.5%, or 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%, preferably is 0.5 to 10%, or 1 to 7%, or 1.5 to 5%, or 2 to 3%.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the ratio of the quantity of said carboxyalkylated starch or said carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, to the sum of the quantity of said oily phase and said surfactant is in the range from 0.2 to 5, preferably from 0.4 to 3.5, preferably from 0.5 to 2.

5.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the carboxyalkylated starch, or the carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, is chosen from carboxyethylated starches, carboxymethylated starches, carboxypropylated starches, carboxybutylated starches, or in which the carboxyalkylated starch is a carboxymethylated starch.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the surfactant is non-ionic and is chosen from sorbitan esters, fatty acid polyglyceryls, citric acid diesters, or mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, in which the surfactant is non-ionic and is chosen from: - alkyl glucosides, - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, - polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, - polyglycerol esters, - mixtures consisting of at least one sorbitan ester, at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid and at least one carboxylic acid ester, - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated silicones.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, in which the surfactant is anionic and is chosen from the salts of mixed anhydrides of glutamic acid and C5-C30 fatty acid. BR898-CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH / COSMETIC / LINTING-WO

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from oils of natural origin, in particular vegetable oils, and mineral oils, silicones, preferably the oily phase consists of at least one oil of natural origin, in particular vegetable oil.

14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, in which the oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from: - non-volatile apolar oils, - polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, - non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, linear volatile silicone oils, - or volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from ethers having a maximum of 16 carbon atoms.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises at least 50% by weight of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, preferably at least 75%, preferably at least 90%, and most preferably consists of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid comprises between 15 and 85% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acid.

17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids comprises: - less than 25% by weight of saturated fatty acid, - and / or less than 70% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acid.

18. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, in which the oily phase comprises less than 50% by weight of vegetable oil, or less than 40%, or less than 30%, or less than 20%, or less than 10%, or less than 5%, or less than 1%, relative to the total weight of said composition. BR898-CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH / COSMETIC / LINTING-WO

19. Composition according to one of claims 15 or 16, characterized in that it is a cream gel and in that the carboxyalkylated starch, the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, and the non-ionic surfactant constitute the gelling system of said composition.

20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from detergent surfactants, cationic polymers, pigments, dyes, nacres, and silicas.

21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cream or a gel.

22. Use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition described in the preceding claims, as a shower gel, washing gel, shampoo, or hair conditioner.

23. Aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream gel, comprising: - at least one carboxyalkylated starch or one carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, preferably carboxymethylated or carboxymethylated and crosslinked, - at least one oil, preferably macadamia oil, - and at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably a mixture consisting of a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid and a carboxylic acid ester, most preferably a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, in which the ratio of the quantity of said oil to the quantity of said surfactant is in the range from 0.3 to 7.

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