Novel uses of a phaeodactylum tricornutum extract

Abstract

The present invention in particular relates to the cosmetic use of a Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract to maintain and / or increase the volume of the skin and / or lips, and / or to plump up the skin, advantageously the skin of the face, and / or the lips, and / or fill the sunk-in areas of the face. The extract is effective to plump up the skin and lips.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: New uses of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum

[0003] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0004] The invention relates to new uses of an extract of the microalgae Phaeodactylum tricornutum, in particular in the cosmetic and nutraceutical fields.

[0005] STATE OF THE ART

[0006] The skin is a major organ that protects the body against environmental attacks such as cold, wind, pollution, but also against toxins and bacterial attacks. It is a complex structure made up of three successive layers, the dermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer. The dermis or corium is located below the epidermis and is made up of two layers: the reticular layer in contact with the hypodermis and the papillary layer in contact with the epidermis. The hypodermis is the deepest layer, mainly made up of adipocytes and blood vessels.

[0007] The dermis is what gives the skin its suppleness and elasticity. The dermis includes the elastin and collagen fibers that make up the properties of the dermis. But the dermis also includes connective tissue. This connective tissue, also called ground substance, is mainly made up of hyaluronic acid. It is the ground substance that gives the skin its volume. Hyaluronic acid is a cross-linked polymer of the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) type present in all connective, epithelial, and nervous tissues in humans. It is synthesized by fibroblasts. It is made up of D-glucuronic acid and DN-acetylglucosamine linked together by B-1,4 and B-1,3 glycosidic bonds. Its role in the skin is to fill and cohesive the tissues.

[0008] If skin slackens with age, it is due, among other things, to a decrease in the quantity of collagen and elastin fibers. The decrease in cell renewal, particularly of fibroblasts present in the extracellular matrix (ECM), is also one of the causes of sagging skin. The skin loses its elasticity and firmness, and wrinkles appear. Certain factors such as smoking, an unbalanced diet, pollution, or UV rays are aggravating factors and accelerate these signs of aging. Hormonal changes or significant weight loss can also cause visible sagging skin. However, while the loss of skin firmness and elasticity are relatively easy causes to understand, the loss of volume with age is more difficult to describe.

[0009] However, volume loss is a separate cause from the loss of skin firmness and elasticity, which also contributes to skin aging. This loss of volume causes sagging of the skin, particularly on the face, especially the oval of the face, visibly changing the shape of the face and its expression. The plump cheeks and cheekbones of a young person become flat, the outline of the mouth becomes drooping, and the face becomes hollow. The decrease in certain proteins in the ground substance explains this phenomenon, in particular the decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid.

[0010] In this regard, and to counteract this loss of volume, the most well-known active ingredient is hyaluronic acid. Other invasive techniques, such as hyaluronic acid injections, exist, but provide a temporary effect.

[0011] There is therefore a need to develop alternative solutions, which are also natural and non-invasive, aimed at stimulating and / or increasing the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the fundamental substance, for a plumping and volumizing effect on the skin.

[0012] Unexpectedly, the Applicant discovered that an extract of P. tricornutum solved the technical problem posed by its ability to increase the volume of the skin, and therefore to plump it up, by increasing the quantity of hyaluronic acid at the level of the fundamental substance.

[0013] An advantage of the extract according to the invention is that it is a perfectly natural extract, non-irritating to the skin. Another advantage is that it is very easily produced on an industrial scale, via biomass production in photobioreactors under controlled conditions. It can also be easily incorporated into a cosmetic formulation. The extract is free of chlorophyll and obtained with the use of a bio-sourced solvent. In addition, the plumping effect of the extract is obtained without invasive intervention or microsurgery, which provides an undeniable advantage over injection techniques aimed at the same effect, which cause bruising and redness.

[0014] The extract according to the invention comes from an extraction of the biomass of the microalga P. tricornutum. Phaeodactylum tricornutum is a diatom belonging to the genus Phaeodactylum and the family Phaeodactylaceae, present in 3 distinct morphotypes (fusiform, oval, triradiate) which are found in many oceanic regions of the world, including northern Europe, Oceania, and the Atlantic.

[0015] The use of extracts of the microalgae P. tricornutum in cosmetics is known from the prior art, in particular an aqueous extract of P. tricornutum, to reduce skin redness, relieve sensitive skin, or improve the skin microbiota of sensitive skin (W02020178213), an extract of P. tricornutum as a depigmenting active agent to reduce or remove pigment spots on the skin or lighten the complexion (FR2913336) or an extract of P. tricornutum to improve the firmness and elasticity of the skin and reduce wrinkles (W002 / 080876).

[0016] However, none of these documents describe the use of a P. tricornutum extract to maintain and / or increase skin volume or an effect on maintaining and / or increasing the amount of hyaluronic acid at the ground substance level.

[0017] Thus, to the applicant's knowledge, the use of any extract of P. tricornutum has never been described to maintain and / or increase the volume of the skin and / or lips.

[0018] STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0019] A first subject of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of P. tricornutum to maintain and / or increase the volume of the skin and / or lips.

[0020] Another subject matter relates to a cosmetic care method for maintaining and / or increasing the volume of the skin and / or lips, and / or for plumping the skin and / or lips, and / or filling hollow areas of the face comprising oral administration or topical application, preferably topical application of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it.

[0021] A final subject matter relates to an extract of P. tricornutum or a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use in promoting the healing of the skin, in particular of persons with damaged skin and / or lips, injuries, lesions and / or superficial wounds.

[0022] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] A first subject therefore concerns the cosmetic use of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum to maintain and / or increase the volume of the skin and / or lips. According to a particular embodiment, the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum is used according to the invention to plump the skin, advantageously the skin of the face, and / or the lips, and / or fill hollow areas of the face.

[0024] Here, the term "cosmetic use" means a non-therapeutic use, therefore non-pharmaceutical or dermatological according to a specialist in the field, a dermatologist, that is to say, which is not intended to treat skin or lips requiring therapeutic treatment. Thus, said use is advantageously intended for healthy skin and / or lips. The term "healthy skin or lip" means any area of ​​skin or lip described as non-pathological by a dermatologist, that is to say, an area of ​​skin or lip not presenting, for example, an injury, redness, infection, scar, allergy, wound, disease, eczema, inflammation, injury, acne and / or dermatitis. The use is thus not intended to treat skin and / or lips presenting a pathology but to prevent and / or improve aesthetic disorders induced by a loss of volume of the skin and / or lips.

[0025] The use of the extract according to the invention can be by oral administration or by topical application.

[0026] Preferably, it is a topical application. The term "topical application" means the application to at least one area of ​​the skin or lips or the spraying onto the surface of at least one area of ​​the skin of the extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it.

[0027] The extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum used according to the invention or the composition comprising it is topically acceptable, that is to say that it does not induce an allergic reaction, is not toxic or irritating. The extract according to the invention or the composition comprising it can be applied or sprayed on at least one area of ​​skin chosen from any area of ​​the face and / or body, and / or on the lips. The term "any area of ​​the body" means any area of ​​the arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, chest, neck, feet and / or hands, and / or buttocks. The term "any area of ​​the face" means any area chosen from the cheeks, cheekbones, forehead, the contour of the nose, the nasolabial fold, temples, the contour of the eyes, the chin, and / or the contour of the mouth.The extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum used according to the invention or the composition comprising it is advantageously applied to any area of ​​the face, in particular to the cheeks, cheekbones, eye contour, and lips, to plump them up and restore volume. On the face, the loss of volume tends to affect the central region of the face, with a flattening of the cheekbones which combines with the sagging of the cheeks and reveals dark circles, the tear trough and the nasolabial fold. The loss of volume also affects the forehead, which loses its convexity and highlights the relief of the eyebrow arches, as well as the temples which become hollow from the age of forty.

[0028] In particular, the Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract used according to the invention is intended to plump and restore volume to the skin and / or lips of people with hollow areas of the face, particularly in the cheeks, cheekbones, eye contours and lips. Loss of skin volume on the face can occur during aging but also in thinning people. Thus, the cheeks, cheekbones and dark circles under the eyes tend to hollow and lose volume. We will therefore seek, particularly in people with hollow areas on the face, to fill these hollow areas to reshape the face and give volume to the eyes, for a rejuvenated and less tired appearance.

[0029] The term "maintaining and / or increasing the volume of the skin and / or lips" also means maintaining and / or increasing the amount of hyaluronic acid in the basic substance of the skin and / or lips, advantageously the skin of the face and / or the lips. The term "quantity of hyaluronic acid" means the amount of hyaluronic acid proteins. This clearly distinguishes the volumizing effect of the extract used according to the invention on the skin or lips, i.e. a plumping effect, from the effects on the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin described above which act on other mechanisms and proteins of the skin.

[0030] By "increasing the volume of the skin and / or lips", we also mean according to the invention improving the remodeling of the skin and / or lips under the plumping effect of the extract used according to the invention.

[0031] Extract from P. tricornutum

[0032] Production method of microalgae

[0033] The extract used according to the invention is obtained from the microalga P. tricornutum cultivated under controlled conditions within suitable systems such as open culture tanks of the “race-ways” or “open ponds” type or closed systems of the photobioreactor type. The photobioreactors used can be of any existing type such as horizontal tubular photobioreactors, vertical photobioreactors such as so-called “green wall panel” systems, flat or column photobioreactors. Preferably, the production of the biomass is carried out within a closed culture system of the photobioreactor type. The cultivation of the microalga is carried out according to the batch, fed-batch, continuous, semi-continuous, turbidostat or chemostat culture management modes.

[0034] Obtaining crude extracts from these micro-algae

[0035] The extract of P. tricornutum obtained according to one or other of the embodiments below is also called “crude extract” or “dry extract” according to the invention, distinct from the oily extract described below corresponding to the crude (or dry) extract dispersed in an oil.

[0036] The biomass obtained from the culture can be used fresh or frozen and / or dried before preparing the extract used according to the invention. It can be concentrated by removing all or part of the water using processes such as centrifugation, filtration, flocculation, sedimentation, coupled, or not, with drying steps by freeze-drying, vacuum drying, drum drying, atomization or any process allowing the water content of the biomass to be reduced. Cell lysis processes can then be implemented such as the application of pressures, electrical flows, shear forces, the use of enzymes, or any other process allowing the destructuring of tissues, organs, cells or organelles.

[0037] Here, the term "dry biomass" means a dehydrated microalgal biomass comprising less than 15%, advantageously less than 10%, even more advantageously less than 5% of water. Preferably, in the context of the invention, the biomass obtained after cultivation is frozen before drying. The biomass may be centrifuged beforehand and then filtered to remove residual water before extraction.

[0038] In one embodiment of the invention, the extraction of the biomass is a solid-liquid extraction in the presence of a solvent or solvent mixture chosen from water, acetone, hexane, ethyl acetate, methyltetrahydrofuran, 2-methyloxolane, heptane, an alcohol chosen from ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, a natural or branched oil, a glycol, a polyol, an alcohol / water mixture, or glycol / water in a proportion of 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / v).

[0039] The solid-liquid extraction of biomass according to the invention is generally carried out from a quantity of biomass of 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 1% to 20%, very advantageously from 5% to 15%, and even more advantageously from 10% by weight relative to the total volume of the biomass and the extraction solvent. The extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 300°C, including room temperature, i.e. a temperature of 20°C. It is advantageously carried out at a temperature between 20°C and 50°C, even more advantageously at 30°C.

[0040] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the extraction of the biomass is carried out in water under subcritical conditions, at a temperature ranging from 100°C to 300°C, advantageously from 120°C to 250°C, still advantageously at 120°C. The extraction can be carried out at a given temperature or at successive increasing temperatures. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature of 120°C. In an alternative mode, it will be carried out according to a gradient of three increasing temperatures between 100°C and 200°C, such as 120°C, 140°C then 160°C or 110°C, 130°C then 150°C, or even 120°C, 145°C then 170°C.

[0041] Extraction under "subcritical conditions" means extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature above 100°C and pressure below 221 bars, the water remaining in the liquid state but having a viscosity and surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant. Thus, the extraction pressure is between 150 bars and 250 bars, preferably between 200 and 221 bars, advantageously in a pressurized extraction autoclave.

[0042] According to another embodiment of the invention, the extraction of the biomass is carried out by supercritical CO2 extraction. In this case, said extraction may optionally be carried out in the presence of a co-solvent chosen from ethanol, acetone, methanol or any of their combinations. Alternatively, the supercritical CO2 extraction may be carried out alone without the presence of a co-solvent and continued by an additional extraction with a polar solvent chosen from ethanol, acetone, methanol, hexane, heptane, advantageously ethanol. Advantageously, within the scope of the invention, the supercritical CO2 extraction is carried out in the presence of ethanol (10%) as co-solvent. The supercritical CO2 extraction conditions are such that the pressure measured in bar is greater than 74 bar, advantageously greater than 100 bar, and even more advantageously 150 bar.The temperature is above 35°C, advantageously above 45°C, even more advantageously 50°C.

[0043] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of P. tricornutum is obtained by extraction in an alcohol / water mixture, in a proportion of 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / v), advantageously still in a proportion of 95 / 5 to 90 / 10 (w / v). This is referred to as 'solid-liquid' extraction. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the crude extract is obtained by extraction in an ethanol / water mixture in a proportion of 90 / 10 (w / v).

[0044] Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crude extract is obtained from the frozen and then dried biomass of P. tricornutum, by solid-liquid extraction in the ethanol / water mixture in a proportion of 90 / 10 (w / v) at 30°C. The quantity of biomass used for the extraction is 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the biomass and the ethanol / water mixture. The crude extract obtained is decolorized with activated carbon and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 a). The residual ethanol is evaporated and then the extract can be used as is (“crude extract”) in powder form or dispersed in an oil (we will then speak of “oily extract” or “oily preparation” according to the invention) or incorporated into a final cosmetic composition (incorporation of the crude extract or advantageously of the oily extract into the final cosmetic composition).

[0045] According to another preferred embodiment, the crude extract is obtained from the frozen and then dried biomass of P. tricornutum, by supercritical CO2 extraction at a temperature of 50°C and a pressure of 150 bars in the presence of ethanol as co-solvent (10%). The extract obtained is rinsed with water and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1 b).

[0046] The extract according to the invention can be used as is (crude extract) in powder form or dispersed in an oil (we will speak of an “oily preparation” or “oily extract” according to the invention), or incorporated into a final cosmetic composition (incorporation of the crude extract or advantageously of the oily extract into the final cosmetic composition) with a “cosmetically acceptable excipient”, that is to say an excipient which is non-irritating to the skin or lips and non-toxic.The excipient is advantageously chosen from natural oils, in particular vegetable oils, such as argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, or any oil extracted from a plant or an algae, including a microalgae, in particular chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, a medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil, additional oils such as C11-C13 alkanes, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preservatives, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturizing agents, conditioners, shine agents, texturizing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, biological additives, chelating agents, astringent agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.Oily preparation (otherwise called “oily extract” according to the invention).

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, the extract used according to the invention is dispersed in at least one vegetable oil to form an 'oily preparation' (or 'oily extract'), which can be used as is or constitute an intermediate preparation of a final composition comprising other additional ingredients.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the extract used according to the invention can be dispersed in any oil extracted from a plant or an algae, including a microalgae, in particular chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, a medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil. Medium-chain triglycerides (MCT) are understood to mean esters of glycerol and saturated fatty acids, the hydrocarbon chain of which has 6 to 12 carbon atoms. An MCT oil can thus be chosen from coconut oil, advantageously coconut oil, palm kernel oil and palm oil but can be obtained from other fats or oils. Advantageously, within the meaning of the invention, the vegetable oil is an MCT oil, very advantageously coconut oil.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, said oil is present in an amount by weight ranging from 50 to 99.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously from 75% to 99.5%, very advantageously in an amount ranging from 97.5% to 99.4%, still advantageously ranging from 98% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, otherwise called an oily preparation when the oil content represents from 97.5% to 99.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This oily preparation can be used as is or serve as an intermediate preparation for a nutraceutical composition or a cosmetic composition further comprising other cosmetic ingredients and excipients such as those described above.

[0050] Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily preparation comprises coconut oil. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, to the crude extract obtained according to examples 1 a) or 1 b), is added a quantity of coconut oil ranging from 97.5 to 99.4% by weight, advantageously ranging from 98 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily preparation.

[0051] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, said oily preparation further advantageously comprises an antioxidant and preferably vitamin E in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily preparation. Advantageously, the vitamin E is present in an amount of 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily preparation. Here, the term "vitamin E" means a tocopherol chosen from α-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, β-tocopherol or δ-tocopherol, or a tocotrienol chosen from α-tocotrienol, β-tocotrienol, γ-tocotrienol or δ-tocotrienol. Advantageously, it is α-tocopherol.

[0052] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the extract is in the form of an oily extract comprising (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably an extract as defined in claim 3 or 4 (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight of a vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil and more preferably a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably 0.25% by weight of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E. In particular, the oily extract comprises from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably an extract as defined in claim 3 or 4 (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight of a vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil and more preferably a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably 0.25% by weight of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E. weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to example 1a).

[0053] This oily preparation (or oily extract) can be used as is or used as an intermediate composition in the preparation of a final composition.

[0054] Final composition

[0055] By "final composition" according to the invention is meant a composition comprising a) the crude (or dry) extract, or advantageously the oily extract according to the invention, consisting of at least one vegetable oil such as those described above and in particular a coconut oil, and advantageously in addition an antioxidant in particular vitamin E, and b) at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and one or more additional ingredients chosen from additional oils such as vegetable oils chosen in particular from argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, or any oil extracted from a plant or an algae, including a microalgae, chosen in particular from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, a medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil, C11-C13 alkanes, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preservatives, emulsifiers, emollients,surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturizing agents, conditioners, glossing agents, texturizing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes, biological additives, chelating agents, astringent agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.,

[0056] The composition may also further comprise any active cosmetic ingredient having the same effect of maintaining and / or increasing the volume of the skin and / or lips such as hyaluronic acid, or a complementary effect, in particular an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle or skin firmness-improving ingredient, an active ingredient on cell renewal, a so-called anti-pollution ingredient, a lightening active ingredient or an active ingredient on the uniformity of skin tone, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] The extract used according to the invention may also be combined with one or more other algal or microalgae extracts, including an aqueous extract or a lipophilic extract of Porphyridium cruentum, advantageously as an anti-aging active ingredient and protective against the combined effects of UV rays and pollution; and / or a hydrolyzate of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extraction co-product, particularly useful for exfoliating the skin and / or reducing the microrelief of the skin, and advantageously a hydrolyzate of ethanolic extraction co-product of P. tricornutum and / or an extract of the microalga Tisochrysis lutea, particularly as an active ingredient for improving the comfort of sensitive skin.

[0058] The extract according to the invention can also be combined with an extract of the microalga Dunaliella salina, in particular a hydroalcoholic extract, the alcohol advantageously being a CrC6 alcohol, still advantageously ethanol, or a supercritical CO2 extract of the microalga Dunaliella salina.

[0059] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum used according to the invention is considered effective in increasing the volume of the skin and / or lips when this increase is at least 1%, advantageously at least 2% and very advantageously at least 4% in the presence of said extract in vivo, in comparison with the volume of the skin or lips evaluated in vivo without the addition of extract. This increase in the volume of the skin is in particular evaluated by taking lateral photographs of the faces in 3D at the level of the cheeks, analyzed by specific image analysis technique well known to those skilled in the art.

[0060] Thus, a content of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract according to the invention, preferably of oily extract according to the invention, ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition, will advantageously be used in a final composition of the invention.

[0061] More preferably, the oily extract is present in a final composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 1.5%, and better still 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the oily extract according to the invention comprises an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum dispersed in a coconut oil and comprising vitamin E, preferably in the following proportions: (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably 1.5% by weight, of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, in particular that prepared according to example 1 a), (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an MCT oil, in particular a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5%, preferably 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

[0062] More preferably, the oily extract comprises (i) 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, (ii) 98 to 99% by weight of a coconut oil and (iii) 0.25% by weight of vitamin E relative to the total weight of the oily extract. Which results in an amount of dry extract (active material) of Phaeodactylum tricornutum in the final composition ranging from 0.0015 to 0.15% by weight, preferably from 0.0075 to 0.075% by weight, in particular from 0.0075 to 0.045% by weight, advantageously from 0.01125% to 0.03% by weight, still advantageously from 0.015% to 0.0225% by weight and in particular 0.00225% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to example 1 a) will be used in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (oily preparation or final composition). This results in a quantity of dry extract (active material) of Phaeodactylum tricornutum in the final composition ranging from 0.015 to 0.03% by weight, preferably 0.0225% by weight and in particular 0.00225% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0064] Galenic

[0065] The cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or lips may be in the form of a powder, a cream, a serum, a soap, a shower gel, an oily solution, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, a mask, a lotion, a mousse or even a lipstick or a lip balm. The composition may also be in the form of a patch or be encapsulated in a form chosen from spheres, microspheres, liposomes. Advantageously, the composition is in the form of a cream or a serum. When the composition is for oral administration intended for nutraceutical application, it may be in the form of a powder and is then present in the form of capsules, tablets, lozenges, liquid or loose powder.

[0066] The cosmetic composition is useful for maintaining and / or increasing the amount of hyaluronic acid, for maintaining and / or increasing the volume of the skin and / or lips. The cosmetic composition has a plumping effect on the skin, advantageously on the skin of the face and lips, allows filling hollow areas of the face, and can be used for this purpose.

[0067] Cosmetic process

[0068] Another subject matter relates to a cosmetic care method for maintaining and / or increasing the volume of the skin and / or lips, and / or for plumping the skin and / or lips, and / or filling hollow areas of the face comprising the oral administration or the topical application, preferably the topical application, of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined according to the invention, preferably an oily extract as defined above or of a cosmetic composition comprising it.

[0069] In particular, the method according to the invention is intended for people with a loss of volume in the central region of the face, such as people aged at least 40, in particular at least 50, or even at least 60, or people who are thin. These people may in fact have in particular a flattening of the cheekbones, cheeks and hollow dark circles, a more marked nasolabial fold, hollow temples and / or thinned lips. It will therefore be sought, in particular in people with hollow areas in the face, to fill these hollow areas to reshape the face and give volume to the eyes, for a rejuvenated and less tired appearance.

[0070] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic care method comprises the topical application of the extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to at least one area of ​​skin, advantageously healthy skin, and / or at least one area of ​​lip, advantageously healthy, the area of ​​skin being chosen from any area of ​​the face and / or any area of ​​the body chosen from the arms, including forearms, legs, thighs, back, torso, chest, neck, décolleté, buttocks, feet and / or hands, advantageously on any hollow area of ​​the skin of the face chosen from the cheeks, cheekbones, forehead, nose contour, nasolabial fold, temples, eye contour, chin, mouth contour, and / or on the lips, preferably the cheeks, cheekbones, nasolabial fold, temples, eye contour, mouth contour, and / or on the lips.

[0071] The extract used in the cosmetic process is as defined above.

[0072] In particular, an oily extract or a final composition comprising it will be used, as described above.

[0073] In an advantageous embodiment, the crude (or dry) extract of P. tricornutum is as defined in the present invention. Preferably, it is a crude extract obtained in an alcohol / water mixture, in a proportion of 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / v), advantageously still in a proportion of 95 / 5 to 90 / 10 (w / v), very advantageously in an ethanol / water mixture in a proportion of 90 / 10 (w / v).

[0074] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the oily extract according to the invention comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum dispersed in a coconut oil and comprising vitamin E will be used, preferably in the following proportions: (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum relative to the total weight of the oily extract, in particular that prepared according to example 1 a), (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99%, by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an MCT oil, in particular a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5%, preferably 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

[0075] More preferably, the oily extract comprises (i) 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, (ii) 98 to 99% by weight of a coconut oil and (iii) 0.25% by weight of vitamin E relative to the total weight of the oily extract.

[0076] According to another particular embodiment, a final composition will be used comprising the oily extract according to the invention and one or more other additional ingredients such as those described previously, in particular additional oils.

[0077] The crude (or dry) extract is still preferentially obtained from a frozen biomass of P. tricornutum. Advantageously, a content of oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition will be used in a final composition of the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to example 1 a) will be used in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (oily preparation or final composition).

[0078] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition is a facial serum or a lip balm, in particular a facial serum comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined according to the invention, preferably the oily extract according to the invention, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0079] Other uses

[0080] A final subject matter relates to an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use in promoting skin healing, in particular by maintaining and / or increasing the quantity of hyaluronic acid in the fundamental substance of the dermis of the skin.

[0081] Thus, the invention also relates to an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use in promoting the healing of the skin, in particular of people with damaged skin and / or lips, wounds, lesions and / or superficial wounds.

[0082] The dermatological or pharmaceutical composition further comprises at least one dermatologically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

[0083] The extract used is as defined above. In particular, an oily extract or a final composition comprising it will be used, as described above.

[0084] In an advantageous embodiment, the crude (or dry) extract of P. tricornutum is as defined in the present invention. Preferably, it is a crude extract obtained in an alcohol / water mixture, in a proportion of 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / v), advantageously still in a proportion of 95 / 5 to 90 / 10 (w / v), very advantageously in an ethanol / water mixture in a proportion of 90 / 10 (w / v).

[0085] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the oily extract according to the invention comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum dispersed in a coconut oil and comprising vitamin E will be used, preferably in the following proportions: (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, in particular that prepared according to example 1 a), (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an MCT oil, in particular a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5%, preferably 0.25% by weight of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

[0086] More preferably, the oily extract comprises (i) 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, (ii) 98 to 99% by weight of a coconut oil and (iii) 0.25% by weight of vitamin E relative to the total weight of the oily extract.

[0087] According to another particular embodiment, a final composition will be used comprising the oily extract according to the invention and one or more other additional ingredients such as those described previously, in particular additional oils.

[0088] The crude (or dry) extract is still preferentially obtained from a frozen biomass of P. tricornutum. Advantageously, a content of oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition will be used in a final composition of the invention.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to example 1 a) will be used in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (oily preparation or final composition).

[0090] The pharmaceutical or dermatological composition further comprises at least one vegetable oil as defined in the invention, advantageously an MCT oil, very advantageously coconut oil. Said oil may be incorporated in an amount by weight of 50 to 99.8% relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously in an amount ranging from 97.5% to 99.4%, still advantageously from 98% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, otherwise called an oily preparation (or oily extract) for an oil content in the composition ranging from 97.5% to 99.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition is used comprising the extract as defined according to the invention, preferably the oily extract according to the invention or a final pharmaceutical or dermatological composition further comprising at least one additional ingredient chosen from preservatives, biocidal agents, antimicrobial agents, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturizing agents, conditioners, shine agents, film-forming agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, chelating agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.The extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising it may thus be intended for people with cuts, wounds or other skin lesions, to promote healing of the skin and / or lips.

[0092] Examples are presented below referring to the description. These examples are illustrative and do not limit the scope of the invention.

[0093] Unless otherwise stated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius (°C), pressure in bar, percentages are given in weight / weight (w / w). Ppm means Parts Per Million (0.01% = 100 ppm).

[0094] Example 1: Methods of preparing an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum and an oily preparation (oily extract) comprising it

[0095] Ex.1a) Hydro / alcoholic extraction (crude extract 1a)

[0096] A quantity of 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biomass and the solvent, of frozen and dried biomass from an auxotrophic culture in a photobioreactor of a strain of P. tricornutum isolated, domesticated and cultivated in mainland France, was extracted in the presence of an ethanol / water mixture, 90 / 10 (w / v), at a temperature of 30°C. The extract obtained was rinsed with water then decolorized with activated carbon, and filtered to 1 μm. The extract obtained is an extract containing fatty acids and corresponds to the extract according to the invention.

[0097] Ex.1 b) Supercritical CO2 extraction (crude extract 1 b)

[0098] In another preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained from the same frozen and dried biomass of P. tricornutum as that described in Example 1 a) but by supercritical CO2 extraction at a temperature of 50°C and a pressure of 150 bars in the presence of ethanol as co-solvent (10%). The extract obtained was rinsed with water and then filtered under the conditions described in Example 1a).

[0099] The crude extract obtained respectively in examples 1a) or 1b) was then added with coconut oil (MCT oil) in an amount of between 98 and 99% (w / w). The whole was homogenized and then the residual ethanol was evaporated. A final amount of 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the α-tocopherol composition was added. The extract of P. tricornutum is present in this oily preparation (oily extract) in an amount of 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said oily preparation.

[0100] This oily extract is then used in the examples below.

[0101] Example 2: In vitro plumping effect of P. tricornutum extract: increase in skin volume

[0102] Protocol: Fibroblasts and adipocytes from healthy (non-pathological) human skin of healthy donors were co-cultured after seeding in DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium) in the presence of Fetal Bovine Serum (FBS) (10%) for a period of 24 hours. A final concentration by weight relative to the total culture volume of 0.1% (w / v) or 0.05% (w / v) of the oil preparation comprising the extract as prepared according to Example 1 a) was added to the culture, which was then run for an additional period of 24 hours after addition of the extract. The same culture without extract (DMEM culture medium) was run under the same conditions. Triton (2%) was added to the cultures to induce cell lysis. The culture medium was collected and the fibroblasts were fixed with paraformaldehyde solution (4%). Each condition was performed in triplicate.

[0103] The protein quantity of hyaluronic acid was measured by the ELISA immunoassay technique.

[0104] The results are presented in Table 1 below and correspond to the average of the 3 samples analyzed, the quantity of hyaluronic acid measured after 24 hours of culture being expressed in % compared to the control (without extract) and reported to the number of fibroblasts.

[0105] Results: Average amount of hyaluronic acid produced

[0106] [Table 1] Conclusion: The oily extract according to the invention increased by at least 15% (taking into account the standard deviation and up to 35% without taking it into account), and up to more than 140% the quantity of hyaluronic acid measured in the fibroblast cultures, with a notable dose effect, and presents an effect superior to that of the control, demonstrating its effectiveness on increasing the volume of the skin, therefore its plumping effect.

[0107] Example 3: Plumping Face Serum

[0108] The formulation below is a plumping serum for the face. The formulation is prepared by mixing the different ingredients using techniques well known to those skilled in the art until a homogeneous serum is obtained. The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the serum (w / w).

[0109] [Table 2]

[0110] This oily serum was evaluated in a 28-day clinical study involving a population of 30 women aged 45 to 70, Caucasian, with healthy skin within the meaning of the invention, including hollow skin areas (cheeks, cheekbones, nasolabial fold, eye contour, etc.). Each woman had the above-described oily serum applied to one half of the face, and a placebo composition without the extract according to the invention applied to the second half of the face. Each serum was advantageously applied twice a day, morning and evening, to each half of the face, including the nose and temples.

[0111] The improvement in skin volume was assessed by taking lateral 3D photographs of the faces at the cheek level, analyzed using specific image analysis techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0112] The results of the clinical study showed an increase in the volume of the skin of the cheeks receiving the serum comprising the extract according to the invention, compared to the half-face receiving the placebo. The extract according to the invention is therefore effective in increasing the volume of the skin, and preferentially the skin of the face and hollow areas such as the cheeks, cheekbones and the eye contour. It is also effective in increasing the volume of the lips. It is a plumping active extract.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic use of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum to maintain and / or increase the volume of healthy skin and / or healthy lips.

2. Use according to claim 1 for plumping the skin, advantageously the skin of the face, and / or the lips, and / or filling hollow areas of the face.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum is obtained by extraction in an alcohol / water mixture, in a proportion of 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / v), advantageously still in a proportion of 95 / 5 to 90 / 10 (w / v).

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract is obtained by extraction in an ethanol / water mixture in a proportion of 90 / 10 (w / v).

5. Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract is in the form of an oily extract comprising (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably an extract as defined in claim 3 or 4, (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight of a vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil and more preferably a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably 0.25% by weight of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

6. Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in a final cosmetic composition, preferably the oily extract according to claim 5, characterized in that the extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

7. Use of the oily extract according to claim 5 in a final cosmetic composition, characterized in that the oily extract is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 1.5%, and better still 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

8. Use according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and one or more additional ingredients chosen from additional oils such as vegetable oils, in particular chosen from argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, or any oil extracted from a plant or an algae, including a microalgae, in particular chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, a medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil, C11-C13 alkanes, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preservatives, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturizing agents, conditioners, shine agents, texturizing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes, biological additives, chelating agents,astringent agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof., 9. Cosmetic care method for maintaining and / or increasing the volume of healthy skin and / or healthy lips, and / or for plumping up healthy skin and / or healthy lips, and / or filling hollow areas of the face, comprising oral administration or topical application, preferably topical application of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined in one of claims 3 to 5, preferably an oily extract as defined in claim 5, or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, in particular of a composition as defined in any one of claims 6 to 8.

10. Cosmetic care method according to claim 9, characterized in that the composition is applied to the skin and / or lips of people aged at least 40, in particular at least 50, or even at least 60, or to thin people.

11. Cosmetic care method according to claim 9 or 10 comprising the application of the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or of the cosmetic composition comprising it to any area of ​​the face and / or any area of ​​the body chosen from the arms, including the forearms, legs, thighs, back, torso, chest, neck, décolleté, buttocks, feet and / or hands, advantageously to any hollow area of ​​the skin of the face chosen from the cheeks, cheekbones, forehead, the contour of the nose, the nasolabial fold, temples, the contour of the eyes, the chin, the contour of the mouth, and / or to the lips, preferably the cheeks, cheekbones, nasolabial fold, temples, eye area, mouth area, and / or lips.

12. Cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the composition is a facial serum or a lip balm, in particular a facial serum comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined in one of claims 3 to 5, preferably the oily extract of claim 5, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, more advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

13. Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for use in promoting the healing of the skin of persons with damaged skin and / or damaged lips, wounds, lesions and / or superficial wounds.

14. Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use according to claim 13, characterized in that the extract is as defined in one of claims 3 to 5, preferably the oily extract of claim 5 or a final composition further comprising at least one additional ingredient chosen from preservatives, biocidal agents, antimicrobial agents, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturizing agents, conditioners, gloss agents, film-forming agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, chelating agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.

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