COMPOSITION FOR STABILIZING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR STABILIZING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS The present invention relates to a stabilizing composition comprising: (i) an oily phase containing at least one oil, (ii) at least one fatty alcohol solid at room temperature, and (iii) at least one antioxidant selected from cinnamic acid derivatives. The present invention also relates to a combination comprising at least one active ingredient and said stabilizing composition, and a non-therapeutic method for the treatment and / or cosmetic enhancement of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said combination to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR STABILIZING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a stabilizing composition which can improve the stability of at least one active ingredient, and a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms, and ultraviolet damage. However, the health and appearance of the skin can deteriorate due to environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition, and sun exposure.

[0003] Environmental pollution conditions are rapidly worsening and are increasingly visible in the daily lives of consumers worldwide. The damage caused by pollution to human skin is also becoming more evident. Human skin is also subjected to various aggressions from extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, wind, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, etc. Recent studies suggest that, in addition to UV radiation, other environmental factors contribute to the development of age spots (lentigo senilis), particularly air pollution. Ultimately, these factors result in visible signs of skin damage, including small brown spots on the skin, especially in older people.

[0004] Typical skin damage includes fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, yellowing, sagging, dark circles under the eyes, puffy eyes, enlarged pores, visible dead skin (i.e., desquamation, peeling), dryness, and roughness. Consumers wish to slow the progression of skin damage and reduce the effects of aging, particularly on the face and around the eyes. Radiant, clear skin appears youthful and is a sign of good health and vitality.

[0005] Certain active ingredients such as ferulic acid, retinol, and 3-carotene may be beneficial for the youthfulness, health, and visual appearance of the skin. They are insoluble in water, soluble in oil, and sensitive to water, light, heat, and / or oxygen. These active ingredients are unstable and exhibit a de Degradation is significant over time. When one or more of these ingredients are introduced into a cosmetic or dermatological formulation for topical application, the active ingredient degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, oxidizing agents, water, or, in particular, due to increased temperature. This prevents the retention of a high level of the active ingredient in the formulation during repeated use. The degradation of active ingredients negatively impacts the effectiveness of cosmetic or dermatological formulations in improving skin condition. Considerable efforts have been made to reduce degradation and improve the stability of these active ingredients. However, some results are not satisfactory enough.

[0006] Consequently, there is a constant need for a stabilizing composition that can be used to improve the stability of the active ingredients and thus increase their effectiveness. Summary of the invention

[0007] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to propose a stabilizing composition to improve the stability of at least one active ingredient.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a combination comprising oil-soluble or oil-dispersible active ingredients and the stabilizing composition according to the present invention.

[0009] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that the above objects can be achieved by combining the lamellar structure phase technology and the chemical anti-oxidation technology with one or more components selected to obtain better stability of the active ingredients.

[0011] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a stabilizing composition, comprising:

[0012] (i) an oily phase containing at least one oil,

[0013] (ii) at least one solid fatty alcohol at room temperature, and

[0014] (iii) at least one antioxidant selected from cinnamic acid derivatives.

[0015] The composition of the present invention can form an oil-in-water emulsion with a lamellar structure (i.e., an alpha-gel structure). Thus, said composition can comprise a continuous aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed with oil droplets encapsulated in the multi-lamellar interface.

[0016] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a combination comprising at least one active ingredient and the stabilizing composition according to the first aspect of the present invention.

[0017] In a third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the combination according to the second aspect of the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0018] Surprisingly, the inventors discovered that the lamellar structure phase has a synergistic effect with certain antioxidants and optionally a chelating agent to improve the stability of the active ingredients, so that the combination according to the second aspect of the present invention does not exhibit phase separation and retains at least 85% by weight of the active ingredients after storage for 8 weeks at 45°C in a light-resistant glass container, which indicates a substantially improved stability of the active ingredients.

[0019] Other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0020] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0021] [Fig-1] [Fig. 1] shows a polarized light microscopy image of the sample obtained according to the present invention; and

[0022] [Fig.2] Fig.2 shows a scanning electron microscopy image of the sample obtained according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by persons skilled in the art to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in this description is inconsistent with the meaning commonly understood by persons skilled in the art to which the present invention relates, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0024] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from ... to ...".

[0025] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0026] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as any optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0027] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing the quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified as needed for the intended purpose.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is considered more particularly in the context of the present invention.

[0029] All percentages in the present invention refer to percentages by weight, unless otherwise specified.

[0030] According to one embodiment, the present invention provides a stabilizing composition to improve the stability of at least one active ingredient, comprising:

[0031] (i) an oily phase containing at least one oil,

[0032] (ii) at least one solid fatty alcohol at room temperature, and

[0033] (iii) at least one antioxidant selected from cinnamic acid derivatives. Oily phase

[0034] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase. Said oily phase comprises at least one oil.

[0035] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0036] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound immiscible in water that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil that can remain on keratinous materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that, in particular, has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm².

[0037] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the oil is defined by the Hansen solubility parameters.

[0038] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by CM Hansen: “The three di-mensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0039] According to this Hansen space:

[0040] - dd characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;

[0041] - dp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0042] - dh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.), and

[0043] - da is determined by the equation: da= (dp2 + dh2)' / 2.

[0044] The parameters dp, dh, dd and da are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0045] For example, according to one embodiment, if the active ingredient used is retinol, then the oil may have Hansen solubility parameters of dd 16.0 to 17.0, dp 1.5 to 2.1, and dh 4.5 to 7.0. In a preferred embodiment, the oil may not have unsaturated chemical bonds.

[0046] Preferably, the oil is chosen from among hydrocarbon oils.

[0047] The expression "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of O and N atoms, and devoid of Si and F heteroatoms. Such an oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0048] Preferably, the oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils such as ester oils, for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0049] Examples of triglycerides include fatty acid triglycerides having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, or preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides.

[0050] Advantageously, the oil can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 30% by weight, or preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohol

[0051] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least one solid fatty alcohol at room temperature.

[0052] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain length of CM and more, for example a carbon chain length of Ci4-C26-

[0053] In the context of the invention, fatty alcohol can be linear and saturated.

[0054] The suitable fatty alcohol for use in the invention may be chosen from myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; or preferably chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] As examples of commercial myristyl alcohol products, one can mention, for instance, the product sold under the name LANETTE® 14 by the company BASF.

[0056] Examples of commercial cetyl alcohol products include, for instance the products sold under the names Ecorol® 16 / 98 F and Ecorol® 16 / 98 P sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Tegoalkanol® 16 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 sold by Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 sold by WF, Alkonat® 1698 P sold by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% Min sold by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) sold by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 sold by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 sold by Kao, and Acilol® 16 sold by Aegis Chemical.

[0057] Examples of commercial cetearyl alcohol products include products sold under the names Ecorol® 68 / 50 P and Ecorol® 68 / 50 P / MB sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals.

[0058] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, or preferably from 4% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Antioxidant

[0059] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may include at least one antioxidant selected from cinnamic acid derivatives.

[0060] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the antioxidant may be a fat-soluble antioxidant that is soluble in the oil present in the composition according to the present invention.

[0061] The antioxidant may be a cinnamic acid derivative, for example, a phenylpropanoid. Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacophore, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenomenon), 5-hydroxyferic acid, sinapic acid, coumarin, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, baicalein, p-coumaric acid, and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the present invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

[0062] Among others, useful derivatives of cinnamic acid may include 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Tinogard TT), and / or octadecyl di-t-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

[0063] On the other hand, hindered or semi-hindered phenols can be used as antioxidants according to the present invention. Useful hindered or semi-hindered phenols may include: mono-, di-, or tri-(α-methylbenzyl)phenol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Tinogard TT), 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), and / or 2,2'-methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol).

[0064] Among others, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate is both a cinnamic acid derivative and a hindered phenol, and is particularly preferred.

[0065] Advantageously, the antioxidant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.08% by weight to 1% by weight, or preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0066] According to one embodiment of the present invention, as an oil-in-water emulsion, the stabilizing composition according to the present invention may comprise a continuous aqueous phase.

[0067] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0068] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase may comprise an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25 °C) such as a polyol having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Advantageously, said aqueous phase may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 90% by weight, and / or preferably from 55% by weight to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Advantageously, water may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 45% by weight to 90% by weight, or preferably from 50% by weight to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Chelating agent

[0071] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may include at least one chelating agent.

[0072] Such chelating agents are defined and described in particular in the article "Chelating agents" of the Othmer Kirk Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 5 pp. 708-739, published in 2003.

[0073] As an example of a chelating agent, polyphosphates, the aminocarboxylic acids, 1,3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, amino alcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases, aminophenols, Schiff bases, tetrapyrroles, sulfur compounds, synthetic macrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.

[0074] For the purposes of the present invention, useful chelating agents may include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), aminotriacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, and a salt thereof, for example, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, the tetrasodium salt of N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid (NN diacetic glutamic acid, GLDA); hydroxyl carboxylic acids, for example, citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and a salt thereof; hydroxyl aminocarboxylic acids, for example hydroxyethylethylenediamine triacetic acid (HEDTA), dihydroxyethylglycine (DEG) and a salt thereof; polyphosphonic acid and a salt thereof;other organic acids containing luminophore, for example phytic acid and a salt thereof, for example sodium phytate, potassium phytate, polycarboxylic acid, for example polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and a salt thereof. ;

[0075] For example, a useful chelating agent may be chosen from sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, sodium phytate, potassium phytate, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] According to the present invention, the chelating agent may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, or preferably 0.05% by weight to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. Surfactant

[0077] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may include at least one surfactant.

[0078] The surfactant is not particularly limited and can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants. Anionic surfactant

[0079] The expression "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0080] In the present description, a species is said to be "anionic" when it carries at less a permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0081] Anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) type surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants can be used.

[0082] It is understood in this description that:

[0083] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one function because boxyl or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0084] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate groups, but do not include carboxylate groups; and

[0085] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0086] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

[0087] They can be selected from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, carboxylates such as stearates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl C6-30) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0088] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0089] these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0090] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of poly-glycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.

[0091] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, special mention may be made of polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds sold by the Kao company under the name Akypo,

[0092] Polyoxyalkylened alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that can be The ones used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): WXXM (1)

[0093] in which:

[0094] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a radical alkyl phenyl (C8-C9), a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2-, R2 designating a linear or branched C9-C2i alkyl or alkenyl radical,

[0095] preferably, Ri is an alkyl radical in C8-C20 and preferably in C8-Ci8, and aryl preferably designates phenyl,

[0096] - n is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and from preference from 2 to 10,

[0097] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a residue of monoethanolamine or of triethanolamine.

[0098] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different RI groups.

[0099] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0100] - Ri designates an alkyl radical in the form Ci2-Ci4, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc- tylphenyl,

[0101] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0102] - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

[0103] Preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which R designates an alkyl radical in Ci2, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

[0104] Preferably, carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among:

[0105] - acylglutamates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate, sodium stearoylglutamate;

[0106] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as palmitoyl- sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0107] - acyllactylates, particularly in C12-C28, or even in C14-C24, such as behenoyl- lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0108] - acylglycinates in C6-C24 and in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0109] - the (C6-C24) alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular the (C12-C20) alkyl ether car- boxylates;

[0110] - (C6-C24) alkyl(amido) ether polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acids, in par particularly those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0111] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0112] Sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0113] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide-sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfo-succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0114] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0115] these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0116] Preferably, anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected, alone or in mixtures, from:

[0117] - C6-C24 acyltaurates, particularly C12-C2O, especially methylstea- sodium royltaurate;

[0118] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially lauryl- sulfosuccinates;

[0119] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates in C6-C24 and in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0120] - acylisethionates in (C6-C24) and preferably acylisethionates in (Ci2-Ci8),

[0121] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0122] The anionic sulfate surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0123] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0124] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0125] these compounds being polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0126] Preferably, anionic sulfate surfactants are selected, alone or in mixtures, from:

[0127] - alkyl sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o,

[0128] - alkyl ether sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, comprising preference of 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0129] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0130] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.

[0131] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, mono-isopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0132] Salts of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0133] Preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among:

[0134] - alkyl sulfates in C6-C24 and in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0135] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, particularly C2-C20; comprising preference of 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0136] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

[0137] - the C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and in particular Cl2-C20;

[0138] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;

[0139] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoyl- sarcosinates;

[0140] - C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably C2-C20 alkyl ether car- boxylates;

[0141] - (C6-C24) alkyl(amido) ether polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide;

[0142] - C6-C24 acyltaurates and in particular Ci2-C20;

[0143] - acylglutamates in C6-C24 and in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0144] - the carboxylates in Ci2-C20;

[0145] - acylglycinates in C6-C24 and in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0146] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, of ammonium or amino alcohol. Non-ionic surfactant

[0147] They may be selected from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-20) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0148] We can also mention ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; sorbitan polyethoxylated fatty acid esters preferably containing 2 to 40 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxy-alkylated and preferably polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters containing 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylated vegetable oils, N-(C6_24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10.14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0149] We can also mention non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:

[0150] R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0151] in which:

[0152] - Ri represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al-kylphenyl radical whose alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0153] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0154] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0155] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,

[0156] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0157] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0158] - Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0159] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0160] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0161] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0162] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15 and from preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0163] The glucoside bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. C8-C16 1,4 alkyl(poly)glucosides, and in particular decyl glucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, and coco-glucoside are particularly preferred.

[0164] Among the commercial products, mention can be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0165] Preferably, 1,4-C8-C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides are used, in particular in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[0166] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides, and more particularly C8-C18 alkyl (poly)glycosides, C8-C30 polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, C8-C30 polyethoxylated fatty alcohols and C8-C30 polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0167] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from:

[0168] - acylglutamates in the Ci2-C2o range, such as disodium stearoylglutamate, stearoyl- sodium glutamate;

[0169] - Ci2-C20 acyltaurates, in particular sodium methylstearoyltaurate;

[0170] - carboxylates in Ci4_i8 such as stearates, in particular sodium stearate;

[0171] - C8-Ci8 alkyl(poly)glycosides, such as coco-glucoside;

[0172] - sorbitan polyethoxylated fatty acid esters containing 2 to 40 motifs ethylene oxide, such as polysorbate 60;

[0173] -polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols containing 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, such as steareth-2; and

[0174] - their mixtures.

[0175] Advantageously, the surfactant can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active ingredient

[0176] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the combination of the present invention may include an active ingredient that is soluble in the oil present in the composition according to the present invention.

[0177] Optionally, the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible active ingredient is sensitive to water, light, heat and / or oxygen.

[0178] As used herein, "the active ingredient is sensitive to water, light, heat and / or oxygen" means that the active ingredient degrades on contact with water, light, heat and / or oxygen.

[0179] For example, the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible active ingredient may be selected from retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinal and hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

[0180] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "retinol" means all isomers of retinol, including all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol and 9-cis retinol, but also 3,4-didehydroretinol.

[0181] According to a particular embodiment, retinol and / or its derivatives may be introduced into the composition in a form dissolved in an oil, such as a vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, in particular at a content ranging from 5.0% to 20% by weight, preferably about 10% by weight in the oil.

[0182] Advantageously, the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible active ingredient may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight, or preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional active component

[0183] The combination of the present invention may include an active component in addition to the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible active ingredient mentioned above.

[0184] Examples of active components include natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and its derivatives; sunscreens; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.

[0185] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of the additional active component according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Adjuvant or additive

[0186] The combination of the present invention may also include conventional adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, preservatives (such as chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, solubilizing agents bilisants (such as ethanol, butanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol), thickeners (such as xanthan gum, sodium acrylamide / acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, C10-30 acrylates / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxypropyl guar; oily thickeners such as polyurethane, polyamide, ethylcellulose), pH regulators (such as triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), dyes / pigments (such as metal oxide pigments, organic pigments and organic lakes), fillers (such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsisesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

[0187] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0188] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a stabilizing composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a lamellar structure to improve the stability of the active ingredients comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0189] (i) from 1% by weight to 50% by weight of an oily phase containing at least one oil having Hansen solubility parameters of d 16.0 to 17.0, p 1.5 to 2.1, and h 4.5 to 7.0 and having no unsaturated chemical bonds,

[0190] (ii) from 2% by weight to 25% by weight of at least one solid fatty alcohol at room temperature and having a carbon chain length of 14 and over,

[0191] (iii) from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one antioxidant selected from cinnamic acid derivatives,

[0192] (iv) from 0.001 wt% to 1 wt% of at least one chelating agent, and

[0193] (v) from 0.05 wt% to 5 wt% of at least one surfactant.

[0194] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a combination comprising, in relation to the total weight of the combination:

[0195] (a) from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of retinol and / or its derivatives;

[0196] (b) a stabilizing composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the com combination:

[0197] (i) from 1% by weight to 50% by weight of an oily phase containing at least one oil having Hansen solubility parameters of d 16.0 to 17.0, p 1.5 to 2.1, and h 4.5 to 7.0 and having no unsaturated chemical bonds,

[0198] (ii) from 2% by weight to 25% by weight of at least one solid fatty alcohol at room temperature and having a carbon chain length of 14 and over,

[0199] (iii) from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one antioxidant selected from cinnamic acid derivatives,

[0200] (iv) from 0.001 wt% to 1 wt% of at least one chelating agent, and

[0201] (v) from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one surfactant. pharmaceutical form, use and process

[0202] The stability composition and the combination comprising at least one active ingredient and the stability composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0203] The stability composition and the combination comprising at least one active ingredient and the stability composition according to the present invention may have a lamellar structure or a phase with a lamellar structure.

[0204] The term "lamellar structure" or "lamellar phase" means a liquid crystalline structure, or a swollen or unswollen crystalline lamellar hydrate phase, with plane symmetry, comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium, which is generally water. The lamellar structure exhibits a characteristic optical effect when observed under a light microscope under 90° cross-polarized light, with unique optical effects, as shown in [Fig. 1]. If the unique optical effect can be observed, it means that the lamellar structure is formed.

[0205] The combination according to the second aspect of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0206] According to one embodiment, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the combination according to the second aspect of the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0207] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES

[0208] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0209] [Table 1] Raw material information INCI name Trade name Supplier Glycerin CremerGLYC Refined Glycerin 99.7% RSPO MB CREMER OLEO (IOI) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride WILFARESTER™ MCT 7030 RSPO MB WILMAR Cetearyl Alcohol ECOROL® 68 / 50 P ECOGREEN OLEO- CHEMICALS Retinol RETINOL 10SU BASF Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT NIKKO Isopropyl Myristate PALMESTER® 1512 / MB KLK OLEO Xanthan Gum KELTROL® CG-T CP KELCO Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydro-cinnamate TINOGARD® TT BASF Trisodium Ethylènediamine Disuccinate NATRLQUEST® E30 INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate DISSOLVINE® GL-47-S AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON) Citric Acid CITRIC ACID MONOHYDRATE BP / USP / FCC / E330 RZBC Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil HUILE DE COPRAH RAFFINEE GV 24 / 26 SIO (ADM) Octyldodecanol EUTANOL® G-JP BASF Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil REFINED CT SOYBEAN OIL ZOR Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate ELDEW® SL-205 AJINOMOTO Exemples 1 et 2 et exemples comparatifs 1 à 7

[0210] Samples for Examples (Ex.) 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples (EC.) 1 to 7 were prepared in the quantities indicated in Tables 2 and 3, respectively. The quantity of each component was given as a percentage by weight of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0211] [Table 2] Samples from examples 1 and 2 Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Glycerin 20.00 20.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 10.00 10.00 Cetearyl alcohol 4.00 4.00 Retinol 0.20 0.20 Glycine soja (soybean) oil / glycine soja oil 1.80 1.80 Sodium methylstearoyltaurate 0.56 0.56 Xanthan gum 0.10 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.10 0.10 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.15 0.15 Water qs 100 qs 100 pH 6.5 6.5

[0212] [Table 3-1] Samples of comparative examples 1 to 3 Components EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 Glycerin 20.00 20.00 20.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 10.00 10.00 10.00 Cetearyl alcohol 4.00 Retinol 0.20 0.20 0.20 Glycine soja (soybean) oil / glycine soja oil 1.80 1.80 1.80 Sodium methylstearoyltaurate 0.56 0.78 0.78 Xanthan gum 2.00 2.00 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.10 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.15 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 pH 6.5 6.5 6.5

[0213] [Table 3-2] Samples of comparative examples 4 to 7 Components EC. 4 EC. 5 EC. 6 EC. 7 Glycerin 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 Glycine soja (soybean) oil 10.00 Cetearyl alcohol 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Retinol 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Glycine soja (soybean) oil 1.80 1.80 1.80 1.80 Sodium methylstearoyltaurate 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 Coconut oil (Cocos nucifera) 10.00 Octyldodecanol 10.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Xanthan gum Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 10.00 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 pH 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5

[0214] The samples in Examples 1 and 2 represented compositions or combinations according to the present invention, which formed an oil-in-water emulsion with a lamellar structure phase and included an antioxidant.

[0215] The sample in comparative example 1 formed an oil-in-water emulsion with a lamellar structure phase, but did not include an antioxidant.

[0216] The sample in comparative example 2 formed an oil-in-water emulsion without a lamellar structure phase, but did not include an antioxidant.

[0217] The sample in comparative example 3 formed an oil-in-water emulsion without a lamellar structure phase, and included an antioxidant.

[0218] Samples in comparative examples 4 to 7 did not include antioxidant and included undesirable types of oil. Preparation process

[0219] The samples of the examples listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the preparation of example 1:

[0220] 1) heat the oily phase which contains cetearyl alcohol, triglyceride ca- propyl / capric, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and other oil-soluble components at 75 °C until the oil-soluble components are completely dissolved; and heat the aqueous phase containing water, glycerin, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, a chelating agent, and other water-soluble components in another container until the water-soluble components are completely dissolved;

[0221] 2). Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase and homogenize by heating to 75 °C until a uniform emulsion is formed; and

[0222] 3). Cool by stirring gently until the product is at temperature ambient temperature to form a cream;

[0223] 4). remove air bubbles from the cream; and

[0224] 5). Mix the pre-dissolved or dispersed retinol in soybean oil with the protection nitrogen in the cream until it is evenly dispersed. Assessment

[0225] The formation or not of a lamellar structure in each sample obtained was evaluated as follows.

[0226] The samples were observed using a Leica DLMB microscope under 90° cross-polarized light, and microscopic photographs were taken. If optical effects characteristic of the lamellar structure were observed, this indicates that the lamellar structure was formed.

[0227] Figure 1 shows a polarized light microscopy image of the sample obtained according to the present invention, in which 1 represents an oil droplet encapsulated in the multilamellar interface, 2 represents the multilamellar interface, 3 represents the oil dispersed with retinol, and 4 represents the continuous lamellar aqueous phase. The spherical structures are dispersed oily phases, which are surrounded by the multilamellar interfaces.

[0228] Similar photos were obtained for the samples of examples 1 and 2 and of comparative example 1.

[0229] Fig. 2 shows a scanning electron microscopy image of the sample obtained according to the present invention, in which 1' represents the dispersed oily phase, 2' represents the multilamellar interface, 3' represents the oil droplet dispersed with retinol and 4' represents the continuous lamellar aqueous phase.

[0230] Similar photos were obtained for the samples of examples 1 and 2 and of comparative example 1.

[0231] It can be seen that a lamellar structure is formed in the samples of examples 1 and 2 and of comparative example 1. Retinol degradation at 45°C for 2 months

[0232] The retinol content of each sample obtained was analyzed using a Thermo Fisher UltiMate 3000 high-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) unit. Before injection, the samples were uniformly mixed in their original containers, and 900 to 1000 mg were aspirated using a glass dropper and dissolved in 25 mL of isopropyl alcohol. The samples were allowed to stand for 30 minutes and then filtered for subsequent HPLC analysis. The HPLC unit was equipped with an ACQUITY UPLC BEH Shield RP18 column, 100 x 2.1 mm, 1.7 pm, set at 60 °C. The sample injection volume was 1 pL. The mobile phase used was MeOH / H2O with 0.2% H3PO4 with gradient elution as described in Table 4. A diode array detector was used and retinol was detected at a wavelength of 325 nm, and the signature retinol elution peak was at 2.14 min.A calibration curve with a retinol content of 5 ppm to 100 ppm was used to calculate the final retinol content in a sample.

[0233] [Table 4] Gradient elution profile Time, min Flow rate, mL / min MeOH, % H2O (+ H3PO4 0.2%), % 0 0.6 70 30 3.50 0.6 100 0 4.50 0.6 100 0 5.50 0.6 85 15 5.51 0.6 70 30 6.50 0.6 70 30

[0234] The degradation of retinol at 45 °C for 2 months was calculated according to the following equation:

[0235] (CT0-CT2M) / CT0*100%

[0236] in which

[0237] CT0 indicates the retinol content of the freshly prepared sample;

[0238] CT2M indicates the retinol content of the sample after being at rest at 45 °C for 2 months.

[0239] The accuracy of the quantification methods is ±5%.

[0240] The results of the degradation of retinol at 45 °C for 2 months of each composition prepared above are shown in Tables 5 and 6.

[0241] [Table 5] Degradation of retinol after 2 months of storage at 45°C, examples Properties Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Retinol degradation 10% 10%

[0242] [Table 6] Degradation of retinol after 2 months of storage at 45°C, examples comparators Properties EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Retinol degradation 25% 30% 20% Properties EC. 4 EC. 5 EC. 6 EC. 7 Retinol degradation 100% 65% 75% 85%

[0243] It can be seen that the samples in Examples 1 and 2, which formed a lamellar-structured phase and included an antioxidant, exhibit significantly improved stability compared to comparative Examples 1 to 7. Comparison of Examples 1 and 2 with EC.1 and EC.3 with EC.2 clearly reveals the positive effects on retinol stabilization achieved by adding an antioxidant. Comparing Examples 1 and 2 with EC.3 and EC.1 with EC.2, it can be seen that, compared to an unstructured emulsion, the formation of a lamellar-structured emulsion The lamellar structure provides retinol with even greater stability, both in the presence and absence of antioxidants. Results from EC4 to EC7 show a deterioration in retinol stability due to the use of undesirable types of oils. These results demonstrate the synergistic effect of combining lamellar phase technology with chemical antioxidant technology in improving retinol stability.

Claims

Claims

1. A stabilizing composition, comprising: (i) an oily phase containing at least one oil, (ii) at least one fatty alcohol solid at room temperature, and (iii) at least one antioxidant chosen from cinnamic acid derivatives, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having a lamellar structure or a phase with a lamellar structure.

2. The stabilizing composition of claim 1, wherein the oil has Hansen solubility parameters of ôd 16.0 to 17.0, ôp 1.5 to 2.1, and ôh 4.5 to 7.0 and has no unsaturated chemical bonds.

3. A stabilizing composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, triglycerides, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof.

4. A stabilizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty alcohol has a carbon chain length of CM -C26, and is preferably selected from myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

5. A stabilizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cinnamic acid derivative is selected from pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, octadecyl di-t-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and mixtures thereof.

6. A stabilizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one chelating agent.

7. A stabilizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one surfactant.

8. A combination, comprising: (a) at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible active ingredient; and (b) the stabilizing composition of any one of claims 1 to 7.

9. Non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the application of the combination according to claim 8 to the keratinous materials.

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