ELASTIC CORD DESIGNED FOR KNITTING AND KIT FOR MAKING A GARMENT BY KNITTING COMPRISING SUCH A CORD
The new elastic cord, made from knitted polyamide and polyester multifilaments with elastane, addresses the challenge of creating swimwear that is both elastic and thin, resulting in supportive, flexible, and comfortable garments that adapt to individual body shapes.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021013582
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-15
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-15
AI Technical Summary
Existing threads or ribbons are not suitable for making swimwear that is sufficiently elastic and thin to adapt to the morphology of individuals and remain in position both in and out of water.
A new elastic cord designed for knitting, composed of knitted threads with polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments covered on an elastane filament, providing a mass quantity of 70-80% polyamide/polyester and 20-30% elastane, which allows for greater elasticity and shaping properties.
The elastic cord enables the production of swimwear that is both supportive and flexible, adapting to individual body shapes while maintaining its position in water and out of water, offering superior comfort and freedom of movement.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: ELASTIC CORD DESIGNED FOR KNITTING AND KIT FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A GARMENT BY KNITTING COMPRISING SUCH A CORD
[0001] The invention relates to an elastic cord, designed in particular to be knitted in order to produce, in particular, clothing or underwear.
[0002] The term "cord" will be understood to mean a strip of fabric which may be flat or which may be wound on itself, made from knitted threads, the threads forming loops entangled with each other.
[0003] The term “ribbon” will be understood to mean a strip of flat fabric, composed of knitted, woven or non-woven threads.
[0004] Thus, it will be considered that a ribbon is a particular form of cord.
[0005] There are fabrics made of knitted yarns which have elastic characteristics which are due to the entanglement of the yarn loops. In such fabrics, the yarns do not necessarily have an elastic property: the elasticity of the fabric is acquired by the entanglement of the yarn loops.
[0006] In contrast, we know of fabrics of cloth, designed from threads which intertwine with each other by crossing along substantially perpendicular lines. Fabrics of cloth may have elastic properties, but these properties are due to the elastic properties of the woven threads.
[0007] Non-woven fabrics are also known, which are made by compacting fibers.
[0008] Today there are many types of cords or ribbons that can be knitted to make clothing or decorative items, storage items, etc.
[0009] Wool cords have been known for a long time, particularly for making clothing.
[0010] For several years, manufacturers have put new types of cords and / or knitting ribbons on the market: for ecological reasons, some cords or ribbons are even made from jersey fabric scraps, in particular, from large textile productions and marketed under the name trapilho (Portuguese name which means "lirette" in French, designating a fabric or a carpet whose weft is made up of strips of used fabric).
[0011] The invention was originally intended to produce swimwear (swimsuits or other clothing intended to be worn in water) that was comfortable and would deform to best fit the curves of a body while remaining supportive.
[0012] Swimwear is usually made from elastic fabrics. The elasticity of the fabric used is important because the swimwear must stick to the skin of the wearer, to maintain its position when the body is in motion both out of the water and in the water.
[0013] The invention was originally intended to produce a different swimwear item, made not from an elastic fabric as is conventional in itself, but from a new knitted cord, making it possible to produce a swimwear item which has greater elasticity and shaping properties.
[0014] However, it turns out that existing threads or ribbons are not suitable for making swimwear: the nature of the cord or ribbon does not allow for the production of swimwear that is sufficiently elastic and thin to adapt to the morphology of people and remain in position in the water and out of the water.
[0015] The invention therefore provides a new cord which is suitable for the production of swimwear made by knitting, which has sufficient elasticity to hold up as well, or even better, than clothing made from elastic fabrics or elastic non-woven fabric.
[0016] The invention relates to this end to an elastic cord, for producing a knitted piece, in particular a garment or a swimwear item.
[0017] According to the invention, the elastic cord is remarkable in that it comprises knitted threads forming interlaced loops, said knitted threads comprising polyamide and / or polyester multifilaments covered on an elastane filament, said polyamide and / or polyester multifilaments being present in a mass quantity of between substantially 70 and 80% and the elastane filaments being present in a mass quantity of between substantially 20 and 30%.
[0018] Thus produced, the cord is sufficiently elastic, thin, narrow and long to be able to be knitted without creating excessive thickness or rigidity in the garment, thus allowing the production of a close-fitting, elastic garment, which is both supportive and flexible: Indeed, thanks to the composition of the cord, it allows the production of a knitted garment whose elasticity is obtained not only by the nature of the cord which has elasticity in all directions, thanks to the interlaced loop stitches created by the threads from which it is made and thanks to its composition, but also by the stitches obtained with the knitted cord which also allow elasticity in all directions.
[0019] Polyamide is a polymer containing amide functions which can result from the polycondensation between the “carboxylic acid” and “amine” functions.
[0020] “Polyamide 66” and “polyamide 6” are two types of nylon: “nylon 66” (or “polyamide 66”) is composed of two monomers each containing 6 carbon atoms, hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid.
[0021] “Polyamide 11” is a high-performance polyamide obtained from castor oil.
[0022] Elastane is sometimes called LYCRA®, Spandex or K-Fiber, which are names for this material. Elastane is a fiber made from polyurethane and contains PFCs. PFCs are perfluorinated compounds used for their waterproofing properties, but also for their elasticity.
[0023] It should be noted that it is particularly complicated to make an elastic cord by knitting it because the prerequisites concerning the composition, fineness and elasticity of the material invalidate a certain number of solutions: for example, the synthetic nature of the LYCRA® material, its great elasticity and the fineness of the fabric invalidate certain techniques of knitting or cutting ribbon cords because the fabric marks easily. In addition, depending on the direction of cutting, certain fabrics or certain materials lose their elasticity.
[0024] Finally, a ribbon containing LYCRA® cannot be wound into balls using the winders normally used in spinning mills because the LYCRA® ribbon alters the hold of the balls. LYCRA® ribbon cannot, either, be presented in skeins because the skeins would catch together.
[0025] The cord according to the invention makes it possible to solve these problems and not only makes it possible to create balls, but also to combine the elasticity of the threads with which the cord is made, the elasticity of the material of the cord with the elasticity of a knit to obtain a garment which is positioned and adapts to the morphology of each person, allowing support, comfort and freedom of movement.
[0026] According to the invention, also, the cord may also comprise the following features, taken separately or in combination:
[0027] - the polyamide multifilaments comprise polyamide 6, polyamide 66 or polyamide 11 multifilaments, - the yarns comprising polyamide and / or polyester multifilaments covered on an elastane filament are knitted using a warp stitch or weft stitch process; - the cord has a weight of between approximately 130 and 195 g / m2; - the cord has a linear mass less than or equal to approximately 10 mg / m; - the cord has a flat cord width of between substantially 5 and 12 mm, preferably the cord has a flat width of substantially 5 mm or substantially 7 mm.
[0028] The invention also relates to a piece knitted from at least one cord as defined above.
[0029] The invention further relates to a ball made with a cord as defined above- above.
[0030] Furthermore, the invention relates to a kit for producing a knitted piece, in particular a garment, from a cord as defined above, said kit comprising at least one ball as defined above, at least one knitting needle and instructions providing a method for producing said knitted piece.
[0031] The kit comprises, in the context of an advantageous embodiment, two circular knitting needles, each of said two needles preferably having a diameter of substantially 4.5 mm, or a diameter of 4.5 mm.
[0032] According to an alternative embodiment, the kit comprises at least two straight knitting needles.
[0033] Finally, the invention relates to a method for producing a knitted piece, in particular a garment, by knitting a fabric cord as defined above, said method comprising the following steps: - production of at least two rectangular samples knitted from said cord, said sample comprising a predefined number of rows and a predefined number of stitches on each of the rows, - comparison of each of said at least two samples with a standard sample, comprising a number of rows corresponding to the predefined number of rows and a number of stitches corresponding to the predefined number of stitches, so as to determine a knitted stitch template, said knitted stitch template corresponding to the stitch template of one of said at least two samples having dimensions close to the dimensions of said standard sample, said knitted stitch template being suitable for producing said knitted piece, - knitting at least one knitted piece by making knitted stitches corresponding to said template.
[0034] Advantageously, said cord is knitted in rice stitch or garter stitch to produce said knitted piece.
[0035] Finally, more preferably, the method comprises the following steps for knitting said at least one knitted piece: - knitting a circular headband, - back and forth knitting of two extension parts from said headband, - assembly of the two extension parts by sewing using said cord.
[0036] Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear on examining the detailed description of a non-limiting embodiment, and the appended drawings, in which:
[0037] [Fig.l] shows a kit according to the invention, represented schematically, comprising two balls of a cord according to the invention
[0038] [Fig.2] shows a ball of the kit of [Fig.l] and two enlargements of the cord, each enlargement illustrating an example of knitting of yarns in accordance with the invention,
[0039] [Fig.3] shows a yarn in side view, before it is knitted to form a cord in accordance with the invention,
[0040] [Fig.4] shows a template, illustrated schematically in front view, in an unused state. stretched and in a stretched state,
[0041] [Fig.5] shows schematically the elements made by knitting at each of the steps of a method of producing by knitting a garment in accordance with the invention,
[0042] [Fig.6] illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord following a first step allowing the stitches to be cast off, to create a reinforcing element for the garment,
[0043] [Fig.7] illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord following a second step allowing the stitches to be cast off,
[0044] [Fig.8] illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord according to a third step allowing the stitches to be cast off,
[0045] [Fig.9] illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord according to a fourth step allowing the stitches to be cast off, and
[0046] [Fig. 10] shows the cast-off of stitches obtained on the portion of knitted garment.
[0047] [Fig.l] shows a kit 1 according to the invention, which comprises elements allowing a garment to be made by knitting from at least one elastic cord 2. The kit can also be called a “Kit”.
[0048] The garment proposed (or knitted piece), within the framework of this example of implementation, is a pair of women's swimming panties (or swimsuit bottoms).
[0049] It should be understood that the invention may extend to kits for making other knitted garments, which may or may not be worn in water, or more generally to other knitted pieces (not necessarily a garment).
[0050] As can be seen in [Fig.l], the kit 1 comprises two balls 20 of elastic cord 2, a pair of circular knitting needles 3, and a notice 4.
[0051] The 3 circular knitting needles have a diameter of 4.5 cm and are connected by a 30 cable.
[0052] It should be understood that the invention is not limited to circular needles of this diameter, nor indeed to specifically circular needles: they are proposed here for the production of the panties. Another type of knitted garment could also be envisaged without departing from the scope of the invention.
[0053] For example, the needles could be straight knitting needles.
[0054] The Kit could also include only one needle, for example as part of a kit for making a crocheted piece.
[0055] The part produced by knitting the elastic cord according to the invention can also be a knitted piece intended for furnishing or decoration.
[0056] The elastic cord is more particularly visible in [Fig.2]: the ball 20 is made by winding the cord 2 which is shown substantially flat in the figure. It should be understood that the cord may not be flat and that it may have a volume shape: the cord could twist, for example, without departing from the scope of the invention.
[0057] The cord is made with threads that are knitted to form loops with a repeating pattern:
[0058] [Fig.2] shows, by way of example, two knitting methods (two stitch patterns that can be made to form the cord 2). These two patterns are given for illustration purposes. Pattern A is a knit of yarns (reference 5) with picked stitches and pattern B is a knit of yarns with thrown stitches. In order to clearly distinguish the pattern of the stitch from the pattern, one yarn 5 (among the others) has been shown in a darker gray. However, all the yarns 5 of the two patterns are the same.
[0059] The threads 5 are made from polyamide / polyester multifilaments which are wrapped around an elastane filament.
[0060] [Fig.3] shows schematically the composition of a thread 5 which will be knitted to form the elastic cord 2.
[0061] The yarn 5 comprises a core filament which is an elastane filament 6 surrounded by a multifilament 60 comprising polyester and polyamide fibers (or polyester / polyamide multifilament).
[0062] The mass quantity of polyamide / polyester multifilaments is between substantially 70 and 80% (or between 70 and 80%) and the mass quantity of elastane filaments is between substantially 20 and 30% (or between 20 and 30%).
[0063] It is anticipated that the polyamide fibers comprising the polyamide / polyester 60 multifilament comprise “polyamide 6” fibers, or “polyamide 66” fibers, or “polyamide 11” fibers.
[0064] Furthermore, it is provided that the polyamide and / or polyester multifilament (reference 60 in [Fig.3]) and the elastane fibers (reference 6 in [Fig.6]) chosen to produce the cord have a linear mass less than or equal to substantially 10 mg / m (or equal to 10 mg / m). This corresponds to a maximum of 100 dtex.
[0065] Furthermore, the cord 2 has a weight of between substantially 130 and 195 g / m2 (or a weight of between 130 and 195 g / m2).
[0066] Thus produced, the cord 2 (with knitted threads) is elastically deformable in all directions. However, it remains soft to the touch, resistant, silky and breathable.
[0067] The cord obtained can be wound on itself to form a ball 20.
[0068] To produce the swimming trunks 7 shown in [Fig.4], the cord has a width of substantially 5 mm or substantially 7 mm, or a width of 5 mm or 7 mm (according to the invention, the cord width is between substantially 5 and 12 mm, or between 5 and 12 mm).
[0069] Reference will now be made to an embodiment of a knitted piece in accordance with the invention, the embodiment being presented at least in part in the notice 4 in the kit 1 in accordance with the invention.
[0070] By its novel nature, the cord is elastic and one must be familiar with the cord to make the knitted piece to the correct dimensions, with adequate cord tension for knitting.
[0071] Also, the method comprises a step in which a rectangular sample E must be knitted from the cord, the sample E having to comprise twelve rows R of thirty-five stitches M each.
[0072] [Fig.4] shows sample E1 in solid lines, representing the unstretched sample E, and sample E2 in dotted lines, representing the stretched sample E.
[0073] When knitting, the cord 2 is more or less pulled / tightened between the person's fingers and around the needles, to make the stitches. The sample obtained then has more or less tight stitches, which leads to the production of a rectangular sample with a sample length L and a sample width 1.
[0074] When the sample length L corresponds to a predetermined length L1, when the sample is not stretched (sample El) and the sample width 1 corresponds to a width 11, on the one hand, and when the sample length L corresponds to a predetermined length L2, when the sample is stretched (sample E2) and the sample width 1 corresponds to a width 12, on the other hand, this means that the sample produced has stitches whose gauge corresponds to the ideal gauge for producing the knitted piece.
[0075] In the context of this example, in accordance with the method of the invention, the knitted sample comprising twelve rows R of thirty-five stitches each, unstretched (i.e. no action is made on it: the sample is measured by being placed flat on a flat support) has a length preferably between 16 and 17 cm. If this observation is made, then the sample is stretched and its length L2 is measured again: if the length L2 of the sample is between 33 and 38 cm, then the stitches produced can serve as a reference, a template, to produce the knitted pieces of the model to be produced because the sample produced corresponds to the appropriate model.
[0076] In other words, the person will have to exert the same tension force on the cord during knitting in order to hope to make the model in the right size and obtain a model with the desired technical sheathing effects.
[0077] The elements of the panties 7 can then be knitted by the person by repeating the mesh template as that of the sample produced and corresponding to the “model” sample dimensions indicated in notice 4.
[0078] A concrete example of the production of knitted swimming trunks 7 is now described with reference to [Fig.5].
[0079] The panties 7 are made in five stages:
[0080] The first step is to knit a cord element 70, the second step consists of knitting a first element in trapezoid 71, a third step consists of knitting a second element in trapezoid 72 extended by a rectangular part 73, a fourth step consists of assembling by sewing 74 the elements 71, 72 and 73 and, following a fifth step, knitted stitches are cast off on the second element 72 in trapezoid to create reinforcing lines 75 of knitted stitches on the swimming pants 7.
[0081] All elements 70 to 73 are knitted by making stitches corresponding to the stitch template of the sample.
[0082] The cord element 70 is knitted by making forty-six rows of circles each comprising between one hundred and seven and one hundred and thirty-nine stitches.
[0083] The number of stitches per row corresponds to a garment size, from size S (for “small”) to size XL (for “extra large”).
[0084] The first trapezoidal element 71 comprises between thirty and forty-six rows R of stitches M, including a lower row 76 and an upper row 77.
[0085] In the context of this embodiment, said lower row 76 comprises twelve stitches M and said upper row 77 comprises between seventy-eight and one hundred and nine stitches M, depending on the size of the swimming pants chosen.
[0086] The second trapezoidal element 72, extended by a rectangular part 73, comprises between thirty-six and thirty-nine rows R of stitches M and said rectangular part comprising twenty-two rows R of twelve stitches M.
[0087] Among said between thirty-six and thirty-nine rows R of stitches M, said second element 72 comprising an upper terminal row of stitches 78 comprising between twenty-nine and thirty stitches M.
[0088] The assembly of the elements (cord element 70, first trapezoid element 71 and second trapezoid element 72 extended by the rectangular part 73) is done by sewing 75 (using a needle 74), using a length of cord 2.
[0089] To do this, it is planned to cast off stitches from the free edge of the rectangular part 73 and those from the lower row 76 of the first trapezoid element 71: figures 5 to 9 show, by way of example, how the casting off of the stitches M is carried out:
[0090] The operation is carried out using three needles 31, 32 and 33.
[0091] Needles 31 and 32 are each inserted into a last line formed by stitches (that of the free edge of rectangular part 73 and those of row 76).
[0092] The two lines of stitches are placed side by side.
[0093] [Fig.6] illustrates how the third needle 33 is placed: the third needle is inserted into the last two stitches formed at the ends of the two needles 31 and 32.
[0094] We then knit together the first two stitches of each needle 31 and 32 with the third needle 33, to obtain a stitch M1 on the third needle 33 (see [Fig.6])
[0095] Then, as shown in [Fig.7], the operation is repeated on the following stitches, that is to say that the two end stitches of needles 31 and 32 are knitted with the third needle 33.
[0096] [Fig.8] illustrates the two stitches M1 and M2 obtained on the third needle 33.
[0097] [Fig.9] shows that the first stitch Ml is then slipped under the second stitch M2 to obtain a cast-off stitch M3.
[0098] [Fig. 10] shows us the result obtained: a line of stitches in thickness is created by this operation and constitutes a sewing line 75 on the knit.
[0099] The knitted piece 7 thus produced has several technical features which are not found in other swimwear: in fact, the nature of the cord according to the invention (i.e. its composition), the production of the cord by knitting yarns, the production of a knitted piece with the cord and the choice of stitches or knitting techniques applied to this cord give the knitted piece an elasticity and elastic deformation which give the knitted piece incomparable properties in terms of comfort and adaptation to the silhouette of a body.
[0100] It is understood from the above description how the cord makes it possible to produce knitted pieces and in particular swimwear that are close to the body, supportive, conformable and adjustable: the elastic characteristics of the cord, combined with the characteristics of a piece obtained by knitting, ensure the production of a garment that adapts to all body shapes without making unsightly marks. The stitches made with the cord can be moved manually by pulling on certain parts of the knitted piece, to make the knitted piece denser in certain places and more flexible in others, allowing the person wearing the knitted piece to conform it manually to adapt it to their body and obtain areas of flexibility or material density of the piece on the body in the places they want.
[0101] In other words, adding stitches makes the material denser and thus allows the creation of reserves of elasticity which can support variations in weight / size in the same person or can be distributed according to differences in morphology.
[0102] It should however be understood that the invention is not limited to the two examples represented and described above: it extends to the implementation of any equivalent means.
Claims
Claims
1. Elastic cord (2) for producing a knitted piece (7), in particular a garment, said cord (20) being characterized in that it comprises knitted threads (5; 6) forming interlaced loops, said knitted threads comprising polyamide and / or polyester multifilaments covered on an elastane filament, said polyamide and / or polyester multifilaments being present in a mass quantity of between substantially 70 and 80% and the elastane filaments being present in a mass quantity of between substantially 20 and 30%.
2. Elastic cord (2) according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyamide multifilaments comprise multifilaments of polyamide 6, polyamide 66 or polyamide 11.
3. Elastic cord (2) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the threads (5; 6) comprising the polyamide and / or polyester multifilaments covered on an elastane filament are knitted using a warp stitch or weft stitch method.
4. Elastic cord (2) according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that it has a weight of between substantially 130 and 195 g / m2.
5. Elastic cord (2) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it has a linear mass less than or equal to substantially 10 mg / m.
6. Elastic cord (2) according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has a flat cord width of between substantially 5 and 12 mm, preferably the cord has a flat width of substantially 5 mm or substantially 7 mm.
7. Piece knitted from at least one cord according to any one of the preceding claims.
8. Ball (20) made with a cord (2) of fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6.
9. Kit (1) for producing a knitted piece (7) according to claim 7, in particular a garment, from a cord (2) of fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said kit (1) comprising at least one ball (20) according to claim 8, at least one knitting needle (3, 31, 32, 33) and instructions (4) providing a method for producing said knitted piece (7).
10. Kit (1) according to claim 9, characterized in that it comprises two circular knitting needles (3), each of said two needles (3) preferably having a diameter of 4.5 mm.
11. Kit (1) according to claim 9, characterized in that it comprises at least two straight knitting needles (31, 32, 33).
12. Method for producing a knitted piece (7), in particular a garment, by knitting a cord (2) of fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, said method comprising the following steps: - producing at least two rectangular samples (E) knitted from said cord (2), said sample (E) comprising a predefined number of rows (R) and a predefined number of stitches (M) on each of the rows, - comparing each of said at least two samples with a standard sample, comprising a number of rows corresponding to the predefined number of rows and a number of stitches corresponding to the predefined number of stitches, so as to determine a knitted stitch template, said knitted stitch template corresponding to the stitch template of one of said at least two samples having dimensions close to the dimensions of said standard sample,said knitted stitch template being suitable for producing said knitted piece (7), - knitting at least one knitted piece by producing knitted stitches corresponding to said template.,
13. Method according to claim 12, characterized in that said cord is knitted in rice stitch or garter stitch to produce said knitted piece (7).
14. Method according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that it comprises the following steps for knitting said at least one knitted piece (7): - knitting a circular shaped band, - back and forth knitting of two extension parts from said band, - assembly of the two extension parts by sewing using said cord.