Cosmetic composition containing a natural resin

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising a natural resin The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, at least one natural resin, and at least one modified polysaccharide; and the use of such a composition to improve the hold and / or resistance to friction without increasing the stickiness of a film obtained by applying said composition to keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a natural resin. Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural resin, at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, and at least one polysaccharide modified in specific weight ratios. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for applying such a cosmetic composition to keratinous materials, particularly human materials such as skin, hair, or eyelashes. Context of the invention

[0002] Cosmetic products often require the use of a film-forming polymer to achieve product deposition on keratinous materials with good cosmetic properties. It is necessary that the film-forming deposit exhibit good adhesion, that it does not transfer upon contact with fingers or clothing; as well as good resistance to water, particularly rain or during showering; and that the deposit be insensitive to perspiration or sebum, as well as to food fats, particularly edible fats such as oils.

[0003] Dispersions of polymer particles, generally acrylic, in organic media such as hydrocarbon oils are commonly used as film-forming agents in makeup products such as mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows, or lipsticks. Silicone-based resins are also used to improve cosmetic wear. These dispersions are not always satisfactory in terms of resistance to oils, particularly food oils or sebum, which can limit their use in lip makeup, for example.

[0004] On the other hand, cosmetic formulation is undergoing a major transformation. Consumers have higher expectations for natural products and need reassurance about the ingredients in cosmetic formulas, particularly regarding their safety, low environmental impact, origin, and renewable nature. In recent years, replacing synthetic polymers, especially silicones, in cosmetic formulas has become a key issue.

[0005] Although certain natural resins, such as rosin, have already been explored as tackifying resins, this is necessarily in combination with a high proportion of silicone resins, for example in order to increase the The shine and staying power of lip makeup (FR2918272) are important considerations. However, document WO2013 / 147113 reports several problems encountered with such ingredients, for example: a loss of flexibility in the cosmetic film is often observed as the amount of silicone resin increases; a sticky effect of the cosmetic film appears as the amount of rosin increases. This results in a feeling of "heavy," heavy, or clumpy makeup.

[0006] Consumers are accustomed to certain sensory and textural properties, for example, those characteristic of silicones and synthetic polymer fillers. This is why the formulator must meet the dual challenge: on the one hand, naturalness, in which silicone resins and synthetic polymers are progressively replaced by more natural raw materials, or those of more natural origin; and on the other hand, performance and sensory appeal, so that the more natural formulas exhibit efficacy and sensory properties at least equivalent to those of the less natural formulas they are intended to replace.

[0007] Finally, successfully formulating solid natural resins at room temperature (25°C) in a liquid-fluid cosmetic product remains a technical challenge. Typically, natural resins are described as being soluble in chlorinated solvents or benzene compounds, or in large quantities of alcohols. Such solvents are not suitable for cosmetic use in skincare or makeup, particularly for the lips, where even ethanol, beyond a certain concentration, is likely to cause discomfort, dryness, irritation, or even a burning sensation. The present invention therefore also aims to make it possible and simple to prepare cosmetic compositions offering improved hold, based on the most natural ingredients possible, and in a cosmetically acceptable environment.

[0008] In particular, the object of the present invention is to make available a cosmetic composition whose residual film after application adheres well to keratinous materials, is elastic with the least possible fragmentation, the least possible detachment from the substrate, is non-sticky, has good resistance to external aggressions, such as friction, is resistant to sweat, sebum, and is not very sensitive to oils such as cooking oils.

[0009] The inventors have shown that, surprisingly, a particular combination of volatile alcohol and volatile oil made it possible to effectively solubilize at room temperature (25 °C) a natural resin, including semi-solid or solid, which, combined with a modified polysaccharide, made it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition whose film obtained after application is both particularly resistant to friction and non-sticky after drying. Summary of the invention

[0010] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition (A) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0011] a- at least one volatile oil,

[0012] b- at least one volatile alcohol,

[0013] c- at least one natural resin, and

[0014] d- at least one modified polysaccharide.

[0015] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total quantity of volatile oil(s) and volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is greater than 1.

[0016] Preferably, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition (A) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0017] a- at least one volatile oil,

[0018] b-at least one volatile alcohol,

[0019] c- at least one natural resin, and

[0020] d- at least one modified polysaccharide,

[0021] in which:

[0022] - the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of resin(s) natural(s) is greater than 0.5; preferably greater than 1;

[0023] and / or

[0024] - the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of resin(s) natural(s) is greater than 0.5; preferably greater than 1.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase of composition (A) as defined above. The oily phase of the invention is preferably continuous.

[0026] The present invention also relates to a method of coating keratinous materials, more particularly of makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, characterized in that it comprises the application on the keratinous materials of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0027] The present invention further relates to the use of a composition as defined according to the invention to improve the adherence to the skin and / or the resistance to friction of a cosmetic film without increasing the stickiness of said film obtained by applying said composition to keratinous materials. Detailed description of the invention

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0029] The term “keratinous materials” refers to skin, mucous membranes and / or hair appendages. Preferably, the keratinous materials are skin, particularly facial skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and / or hair appendages such as eyelashes.

[0030] The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, they are cosmetic compositions.

[0031] The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0032] In the present invention, a "physiologically acceptable medium" is defined as a non-toxic medium compatible with keratinous materials, particularly with human skin (including the inside of the eyelids), mucous membranes, hair, or lips. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor, and feel, and intended for topical application.

[0033] By "anhydrous composition" is meant composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, and in particular free of water.

[0034] By "volatile substance" is meant any substance capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Said volatile substance is liquid at ambient temperature, and in particular has a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0035] Vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0036] By "soluble or solubilized compound" is meant a compound which can be dissolved in a liquid, or which is miscible, and forms only a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the liquid.

[0037] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0038] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0039] In the description and examples, unless otherwise stated, contents and percentages are weight percentages. Percentages are therefore expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Ratios are also weight ratios. Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated. Composition (A) - Oily phase

[0040] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition as defined above.

[0041] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that composition A of the invention, comprising natural resin(s), in particular solubilized, in a specific mixture of volatile oil(s) and volatile alcohol(s), as defined below, in combination with a modified polysaccharide, makes it possible to obtain a film with improved adhesion, resistant to rubbing and non-sticky after the film has dried. Natural resins

[0042] A resin is generally defined as a solid, highly viscous or liquid substance of plant or synthetic origin. Resins have several specific characteristics, such as:

[0043] - the ability to harden permanently, for example for synthetics under the influence of temperature and, for natural ones, under the influence of oxygen;

[0044] - their insolubility in water and especially their good sticky and adhesive properties.

[0045] ISO4618:2014(fr) defines a resin as a "generally amorphous macromolecular product, with a consistency ranging from solid to liquid"

[0046] Natural resins are almost exclusively of plant origin (fossilized or harvested), and are secreted and then exuded from plants for defense, protection, and communication purposes within their ecosystem. Shellac, of animal origin, secreted by the insect Coccus lacca, is an exception.

[0047] By "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", in the sense of the invention, is meant any substance comprising a minimum content of terpene compounds, that is to say of at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds on the total weight of the substance (or material) in question, as chemically defined below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly, from the secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (more rarely by animals), of a substance for roles of defense, protection and communication with their ecosystem.

[0048] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is not soluble in water at room temperature (unlike latex or gums for example).

[0049] Natural resins are also considered natural adhesives which have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably of themselves without synthetic chemistry.

[0050] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol. mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even better, less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 1,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). Thermal properties

[0051] Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they have a softening point, which designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating.

[0052] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 90°C.

[0053] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standardized conditions. It designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating. It is measurable by the ball and ring method (or TB A, ball and ring temperature) for resins according to ASTM E284;

[0054] Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature, preferably below 360°C, preferably below 190°C, and even more preferably below 90°C.

[0055] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins do not exhibit a melting temperature.

[0056] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of that substance can coexist in equilibrium;

[0057] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range of 0 to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

[0058] The glass transition temperature (Tv, or in English: Tg for glass) of a material represents the temperature range through which the material passes from a rubbery state to a glassy, ​​solid (rigid) state.

[0059] The thermal properties, in particular the Tf and Tg of the resins, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example using a Perkin Elmer DSC 8000 apparatus, according to:

[0060] - Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperatures Tf and crystallization temperatures Te: The raw materials alone or solubilized / dispersed in solvents, stainless steel cups, scanning from 5 °C to 90 °C, scanning speed at 5°C.min-l.

[0061] - Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: measurement In the second heating stage, aluminum cups (40 pL) containing the raw materials are used. A temperature sweep between -100°C and 150°C (using isotherms) is performed to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C / min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles). Botanical definition of resins:

[0062] Natural resins of vegetable or animal origin are classically defined by Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Resins, Synthetic" 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2.

[0063] Natural resins can be classified according to their botanical characteristics. Resins can be derived from gymnosperms (naked plants) and angiosperms (covered plants); the latter are subdivided into monocotyledons (with one leaf embryo) and dicotyledons (with two leaf embryos). They can also be selected according to their physical and chemical properties.

[0064] Natural resins include, in particular, rosins (gum, wood or tall oil rosins from tree and plant exudates; extracted wood; or by-products of papermaking), fossil resins such as amber; extracted resins such as asphaltite; shellac such as those produced from insect secretions; and their principal derivatives.

[0065] Preferably, the resins of the invention are of vegetable origin, in particular from plants or trees.

[0066] Fossil resins are resins (hard and semi-hard) collected from the soil in the locations of ancient forests that have since disappeared. Some of them are no longer even known with certainty. Some fossil resins have undergone considerable changes in their chemical structure through aging or maturation, which can take thousands of years. The transition from fossil to recent resins is variable. They may, for example, include resins that are both found fossilized and collected from living plants. Semi-fossil varieties are collected at the foot of the trees that produced them (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Resins, Natural" 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l'Ingénieur, "Résines Naturelles", 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0067] The harvested resins are fresh (soft). They are harvested from plants that are all living. Depending on their composition, they are subdivided into:

[0068] - oleoresin: natural solution of resin in an essential oil;

[0069] - balm: resin characterized by a significant proportion of benzoic acids and cinnamics and their esters;

[0070] - gum: resin composed essentially of polysaccharides;

[0071] - gum-resin: mixture of resins and hydrophilic gums;

[0072] - latex: milky composition of organic matter dispersed in a medium aqueous (Techniques de l'Ingénieur, "Natural Resins", 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0073] Among the resins, in particular the recent resins, of the invention, resins soluble in oils and / or alcohols are preferred over water-soluble forms such as latex or gums.

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins of the invention are harvesting resins; particularly interesting according to the invention from an ecological point of view because they are self-regenerating.

[0075] Preferably, the resins of the invention are recent. Advantageously, the resins used according to the invention rely on resources that do not compete with those intended for food applications. Advantageously, the resins used in the compositions of the invention originate from the valorization of co-products of the paper industry. Chemical definition of resins

[0076] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds whose presence and content define the class of the resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum...): essential oils, neutral and acidic constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).

[0077] The characteristic components of the resins are the terpene compounds they contain, preferably with a content of at least 30% by weight, on the weight of resin.

[0078] By "terpenic compounds" we mean terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene with the general formula (C5H8)n, and their many derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids...) comprising a terpene structure (Académie de Montpellier. Resins: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).

[0079] Among terpene hydrocarbons, the following are distinguished: monoterpenes with the molecular formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes with the molecular formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8), and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they have a number of double bonds corresponding to their formula. crude: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more rings or a smaller number of double bonds; for example for C10H16 one ring and 2 double bonds or 2 rings and one double bond.

[0080] Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, or even better at least 70%, by weight on the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as raw material in the composition according to the invention.

[0081] Monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are mostly volatile compounds, constituting, for example, essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as diterpene and triterpene derivatives) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, that is, compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, in relation to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Resins exhibiting a solid fraction at room temperature (25°C) are preferred. Advantageously, the resins used according to the invention are not volatile.

[0083] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are predominantly (more than 50% by weight of the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0084] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds, i.e., compounds derived from terpenes with n less than 4, in proportion to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Preferably, said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds derived from terpenes with n less than 4, in proportion to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. For the compositions of the invention, it is therefore preferable to limit the use of the most volatile resins, as they are less effective in terms of cosmetic film adhesion.

[0085] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that may be contained in the natural resins of the invention has been established. It lists families of terpene compounds, subdivided according to the characteristic groups (alcohol function, ketone function, acid function, etc.) of each compound (Lists below). Examples of monoterpene compounds

[0086] Advantageously, the monoterpene compound(s) of the resin are selected from: alpha-pinene, [3-pinene, 3-carene, Camphene, Dipentene, P-Cymene, B-myrcene, α-Phellandrene, Sabinene, α-Thuyene, Limonene, Octyl ethanoate, Neryl ethanoate, Bornyl ethanoate, Geranyl ethanoate, α-Terpineol, Cineole, Linalool, Bomeol, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Examples of sesquiterpene compounds

[0087] Advantageously, the sesquiterpene compound(s) of the resin are selected among: Alpha-copaene, [3-caryophyllene, [3-bisabolene, [3-gurjunene, alpha-gurjunene, allo-Aromadendrene, [3- Bourbonene, Delta-cadine, Alpha-guadine, a [3 - Elemene, d - Elemene, a - Copaene, a - Selinene, [3 - Selinene, [3 - Bourbonene, Lindestrène, Furanoeudesma-l,3-diene, a - Cubebene, Farnesol, a- Elemol, Viridiflorol, t- Cadinléne, Elemol, Germacrone Curzerenone, their derivatives, and their mixtures. Examples of diterpene compounds

[0088] Advantageously, the diterpenic compound(s) of the resin are selected from: Abietic acid, Pimaric acid, Sandarcopimaric acid, Comunic acid, Levopimaric acid, Palustric acid, Isopimaric acid, Dehydroabietic acid, Neoabietic acid, Agathic acid, Cembrene A, Cembrene C, Isocembrene, Vercilla-4(20),7,ll-triene, Incensole, Totarol, Sandaracopimarinol, Cembrenol, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Examples of triterpenic compounds

[0089] Advantageously, the triterpene compound(s) of the resin are selected from:

[0090] 3[3,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarenolic acid, dammardienone, hydroxydammarenone (I or II), Dammarenediol I (or II), Dammadienol, 11-keto-[3-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-[3-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), [3-boswellic acid], ursolic acid, mangiferonic acid, benthamic acid, ursolic aldehyde, α-amyrenone, α-amyrin, β-amyrin, Uvaol, oleanolic acid, oleanonic acid, moronic acid, oleanonic aldehyde, acetyl-lupeolic acid, lupeolic acid, lupeol

[0091] Betulonal, Hydroxyhopanone, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins used according to the present invention contain at least one diterpenic compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, natural or chemically modified.

[0093] Preferably, the diterpenic compound(s), in particular derived from abietic acid, are present in the resin in weight contents of at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, and even more preferably at least 40%, by weight on the total weight of the natural resin.

[0094] In particular, rosin resins t) such as rosinates, containing such diterpenic compounds, can be cited.

[0095] According to a second embodiment of the invention, alternative or complementary to the first, the resin(s) used according to the present invention contain at least one triterpenic compound, preferably chosen from the following triterpenic compounds: alpha-amyrin, Beta-amyrin, alpha-amyrone, beta-amyrone, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolic aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonic aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] The total content of triterpenic compounds, in particular the content of those preferred above, in the resin used according to the invention is advantageously at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, even more preferably at least 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight on the total weight of the natural resin.

[0097] Examples include the resins of incense k) protium heptaphyllum or shorea robusta, containing such triterpenic compounds.

[0098] The chemical composition of a resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art, such as gas chromatography analysis (GC), chromatographic analysis with flame ionization detection (GC-FID), or GC / MS analysis, which consists of using a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph; preferably by GC-FID.

[0099] The following article discusses these common methods "Methodological developments in TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS for the analysis of terpenoid compounds present in plant resins", https: / / tel.archives-ouvertes.fr / tel-01581308. Definition of resins by their origin:

[0100] Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are selected from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular Kauri copal resins, Manila copal resins, West African copals such as those from Congo, Angola or Cameroon, East African copals such as those from Zanzibar or Madagascar, South American copals such as those from Brazil or Colombia), i) damars, j) elemis, k) frankincense, l) galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics, o) myrrh, p) Sandarac, q) Shellac, r) Styrax (Storax), s) Venice turpentine (Larch, Turpentine essence), t) The colophons in particular Rosin and rosinate and tall oils, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins.

[0101] Preferably the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from j), k), t), u) and v); it is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, form adducts, be modified by phenols, and / or dimerized and / or further hydrogenated.

[0102] j) The elems

[0103] “Elemis” is the generic term for defining the group of recent natural resins Derived from plants of the Burseraceae family (Canarium indicum). Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the elemi resin used comes from the Philippines, specifically Manila elemi. To extract it, the trees are wounded, and a flow of pathological resin appears, which solidifies over time. Elemi resins are yellowish to greenish in color, opaque, ointment-like, sticky, and solidify into brownish resins speckled with crystals.

[0104] Elemis are soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters, and carbon disulfide; and less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemis have an acid value between 18 and 34, a saponification value between 25 and 60, and a softening point of approximately 80. Balsams exuding elemis contain up to 30% essential oils.

[0105] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are selected from among the elemi species, in particular elemi from the Canarium Luzonicum family, in its pure form or mixed with a latex, for example. One example is the elemi resin from Canarium Luzonicum marketed under the name ELEMI RESIN.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from j) the elements.

[0107] k) Frankincense (Oliban)

[0108] Frankincense is found in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia, and eastern India. Frankincense resins are a recent development, extracted from the frankincense tree Boswellia carterii. Frankincense resins are also found in the Amazon. The bark is intentionally damaged to obtain a milky extract, which is collected after drying. Preferably, the resin(s) of the invention are selected from frankincense, particularly from the Amazon.

[0109] Frankincense resins are pale yellow, forming irregular, rounded or globular beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by weight (approx. 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Frankincense has an acid value between 30% and 50% (indirect) and is moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline media.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins of the invention are chosen from among incenses, in particular Amazonian incense resins marketed under the name Protium heptaphyllum resin, or PROTIUM RESIN, or WHITE BREU RESIN, and incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea robusta.

[0111] Advantageously, the resin(s) are in a mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined below according to the invention, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, TOCOPHEROL: 50-75% by weight shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight sunflower seed oil) marketed under the name KAHLRESIN 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN and OCTYLDODECANOL: 50-70% by weight shorea robusta resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed as KAHLRESIN 6720.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from k) incense.

[0113] t) Rosins

[0114] Preferably, the natural resin(s) are chosen from among rosins. Rosins are recent resins, from renewable resources, and can be modified (e.g. esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).

[0115] Rosin gums are preferably purified, distilled, from the balsam of various pine essences (up to 80 different species).

[0116] Their composition is determined by climate, soil composition, and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, rosin from Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, caribaea (slash pine), United States, Caribbean, densiflora Japan, elliottii United States, halepensis (Aleppo pine) Greece, Portugal, Spain, langifolia India, maritima (seashore pine) France, Spain, Portugal, massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, mercusii Indonesia, Burma, Philippines, nigra (black pine) Austria, oocarpa Central America, Honduras, palustris (swamp pine), United States, (longleaf pine), pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, tonkinensis China, yunnanensis China.

[0117] The average composition is approximately 70 to 75% rosin and 20 to 25% turpentine oil.

[0118] Wood rosin [8050-09-7]

[0119] The rosin comes from stumps in the USA that have remained in the ground for at least 10 years so that the resin-rich heartwood is available.

[0120] Pine stumps contain between 10 and 30% by weight (approx. 19% rosin), between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) turpentine oil, between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) petroleum ether-insoluble resins, between 20 and 30% by weight (preferably 23%) water and between 40 and 60% by weight (preferably 50%) cellulose and lignin-type.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins are chosen from among the rosins.

[0122] u) Tall oils colophony (Rosin and rosinate) [8052-10-6]

[0123] Tall rosin oils often contain small amounts of higher fatty acids, particularly those with a carbon number of 6 or more. In one embodiment, tall rosin oils are free of oxocarboxylic acid. In particular, they are soluble in organic solvents.

[0124] The rosin resins of the invention comprise in particular rosin acids belonging to the terpenes. The numbering of the carbon atoms in the rosin acid molecules is indicated using abietic acid as an example.

[0125] Rosin acids have the molecular chemical formula C2O H3O O2 and therefore belong to the diterpene family (four isoprene units). A large number of tricyclic rosin acid isomers exist, differing in the position of the two double bonds.

[0126] Advantageously, said resin according to the invention is selected from: gum rosin obtained by incision in living trees, wood rosin extracted from pine stumps or wood, and tall oil rosin obtained from a by-product of paper production. Advantageously, said resin(s) comprise rosin acids; preferably predominantly selected from abietic and pimaric acids; and in particular selected from: levopimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextropimaric acid, isodextropimaric acid; or palustric acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Rosin derivatives can be obtained in particular from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification (for example with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol) of rosin acids. Examples include the rosin esters marketed under the reference FORAL 85, PENTALYN H and STAYBELITE ESTER 10 by HERCULES; SYLVATAC 95 and ZONESTER 85 by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; and UNIREZ 3013 by UNION CAMP.

[0128] According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from among the rosinates (salts of alkaline agents of rosin acids, in particular metal salts) alkalis such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earths such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).

[0129] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosin acid esters, in particular rosin acid esters as defined above, and (C1-C6) alkanol, polyhydroxy(Cl-C6)alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from glyceryl rosinate marketed under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate in mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL marketed under the name EFP BIOTEK), pentaerythrityl rosinate marketed under the name RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80.

[0130] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkane or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkene adducts, in particular maleic acids with rosin acids.

[0131] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins modified by phenols. In particular, those modified by (C1-C4) alkylene phenols or diphenols, possibly substituted by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl or t-butyl, more particularly rosins modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidenediphenol (bisphenol A).

[0132] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from dimerized rosins; in particular those in which abietic acid is polymerized. Preferably, the rosins contain more than 50% dimeric acids and are thus called dimerized rosins. According to one embodiment, the rosins are polymerized and contain from 30% to 90% by weight of dimeric acid (in particular at least 40%, 60%, or 80% dimeric acids).

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from hydrogenated rosins. The double bonds, particularly those of acids such as abietic acid, are subject to oxidation, which can be eliminated by hydrogenation. It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, adducted, modified with phenols, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

[0134] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises at least one rosin ester selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated dilinoleyl dimer rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexadihydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, rosinate of hydrogenated pentaerythrityl, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate; and mixtures thereof.

[0135] According to a particular embodiment, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (PENTAERYTHRITYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE), hydrogenated methyl rosinate (METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE) marketed under the name SYMRISE BIO4326.

[0136] Furthermore, the resin(s) of the invention may be mixed with fatty substances (c) as defined below, in particular waxes or butters. Examples include mixtures of glyceryl rosinate with one or more fatty substances (c), in particular selected from waxes or butters, such as the mixture with shea butter or olive oil such as (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL), BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER) GLYCERYL ROSINATE, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES GLYCERYL ROSINATE, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES marketed by SHEA BUTTER & GLYCERYL ROSINATE & OILS.

[0137] v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes

[0138] Natural plant waxes as such are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / excreted by plants and naturally contain a very low resin content, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes relative to the total weight of the wax. For example, Camauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of a Copernica cerifera palm to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia antisyphilitica, native to northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax consists mainly of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20 to 29%), free acids (7 to 9%), and resins (12-14%, mainly triterpenic esters).

[0139] However, the definition of "natural resins" within the meaning of the present invention also includes resins derived from vegetable waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, isolated, or extracted from these waxes, provided that the resinous or terpenic ingredient in question contains the minimum terpene content (30% by weight of the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. In particular, Candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), with the INCI name: EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELLILA) WAX EXTRACT, marketed under the name CANDELILLA RESIN by JAP AN NATURAL PRODUCTS, may be cited. Document WO2013 / 147113 also refers to Camauba resin, a terpenic resin extracted from Camauba wax, and exhibiting physical properties similar to those of classically described natural resins, such as a softening temperature and not a melting temperature, which differentiates resin from wax.

[0140] Table 1 of the examples shows some characteristic differences between the waxes and resins according to the invention, concerning their thermal properties.

[0141] The resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but no melting temperature.

[0142] The opposite is true in the case of waxes which have a melting point.

[0143] Preferably the resin(s) are chosen from resin(s) j), k), and t) as defined above, and resin(s) v) extracted from waxes, in particular from candelilla, or camauba; and mixtures thereof. Preferred resins according to the invention:

[0144] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from the following references, indicated by their INCI name, used alone or in mixture:

[0145] - EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT, such as CANDELILLA RESIN El marketed by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS, BOTANICAL RESIN marketed by CERA RICA NODA, TOWAX-1F12 marketed by TOA KASEI (type v resin);

[0146] - PROTIUM HEPTAPHYLLUM RESIN, or PROTIUM RESIN, or WHITE BREU RESIN, which can be marketed for example by CITROLEO or Ephyla (type k resin)

[0147] - Frankincense resins from the Sal tree, SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN. The or Resins may be found in mixtures with one or more fatty substances (c) as defined below, preferably chosen from volatile or inert oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, TOCOPHEROL: 50-75% by weight shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight sunflower seed oil) marketed under the name KAHLRESIN 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN and OCTYLDODECANOL: 50-70% by weight shorea robusta resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed as KAHLRESIN 6720 (type k resin).

[0148] - rosin acid esters such as GLYCERYL ROSINATE marketed under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate in a mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL marketed under the name EFP BIOTEK), pentaerythrityl rosinate marketed under the names RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80 or the rosinate hydrogenated such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (PENTAERYTHRITYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE), hydrogenated methyl rosinate (METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE) marketed under the name SYMRISE BIO4326 (t-type resin).

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins are chosen from EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELLILA) WAX EXTRACT.

[0150] Advantageously, the resin(s) is / are present in the composition of the invention in a content within the range of 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 35%, preferably from 1% to 30%, preferably from 2% to 25%, preferably from 3% to 22%, and more preferably from 5% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0151] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, preferably is free of synthetic resin.

[0152] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, preferably is free of silicone resin, i.e. synthetic resin in which the basic structure is a chain comprising siloxane groups (silicon-oxygen-silicon bonds). Oils

[0153] The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase, advantageously continuous, comprising at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa). It is organic, namely comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms and is immiscible in water.

[0155] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0156] The total concentration in the oil phase of the composition of the invention is advantageously within the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 15 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 25 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] By "oil" is meant a liquid compound at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0158] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to create a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation. Volatile oils

[0159] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably within the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0160] Conversely, "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.

[0161] By way of example, vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0162] The volatile oil or oils are preferably present in a content in the range of 1 to 90% by weight, preferably 2 to 70%, preferably 3 to 50%, preferably 5 to 45% by weight, preferably 8 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably 10 to 35%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] The volatile oil or oils are advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils. volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0164] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic groups. A hydrocarbon oil therefore does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0165] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, preferably non-aromatic (also called hydrocarbon).

[0166] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon oils comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, therefore oils with only C, H and O.

[0167] By way of example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil usable in the invention, one may cite:

[0168] - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®,

[0169] - linear alkanes, in the C6-C16 range, for example in Cl1-C15, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13), such as Cetiol Ultimate® of the BASF company.

[0170] - volatile non-aromatic cyclic C5-C12 alkanes;

[0171] - C8-C16 branched esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate;

[0172] - short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate for example sold by SOLVAY, DOW or OXEA;

[0173] - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R' lO-CO-O-R'2 in in which R'1 and R'2 independently designate a linear, branched, or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably, R'1 and R'2 designate a linear butyl alkyl radical or a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;

[0174] - volatile ether oils of formula R1OR2 in which RI and R2 denote independently a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for RI and R2 to be identical.

[0175] Examples of linear alkyl groups include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, especially dicaprylyl ether.

[0176] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Sol T by the company SHELL, may also be used; or even volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE102008012457.

[0177] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably selected from hydrocarbon-type hydrocarbon oils (i.e., nonpolar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

[0178] - C8-C16 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures,

[0179] -linear alkanes, for example in Cl 1-C15, alone or in mixtures, and

[0180] -their mixtures.

[0181] The volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are in particular chosen from among the alkanes and in C6-C16 and in particular alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as Cl3-16 Isoparaffin.

[0182] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, in particular selected from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and mixtures thereof, preferably comprising isododecane and / or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0183] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) of the invention are a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, whose chains comprise 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes. This mixture is notably known under the INCI name C9-C12 ALCANE, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthls.

[0184] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil or oils are at least partially of vegetable origin. volatile silicone oil

[0185] “Siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0186] Volatile silicone oils can be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0187] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0188] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil will be used, and more particularly a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0189] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of silicone oil on the total weight of the composition, and ideally the composition of the invention is free of any silicone oil.

[0190] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil or oils are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0191] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises isododecane, linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes, and / or mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); preferably it comprises isododecane

[0192] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20; preferably 5 to 18, preferably 8 to 15.

[0193] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition may further comprise one or more non-volatile oils. Non-volatile oils

[0194] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0195] The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

[0196] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition Cl or C' 1 comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

[0197] Among the non-volatile oils, we can mention: Non-volatile silicone oils

[0198] The non-volatile silicone oil may in particular be chosen from the following non-volatile silicones with INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and mixtures thereof.

[0199] These products are marketed in particular under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. Non-volatile fluorinated oils

[0200] By "fluoridated oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0201] The fluorinated oil may in particular be selected from fluorinated polyethers, as well as from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752. Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0202] Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils may be selected from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for example:

[0203] - paraffin oil,

[0204] - squalane, such as the NEOSSANCE SQUALANE reference marketed by AMYRIS,

[0205] - isoeicosane,

[0206] - linear, saturated hydrocarbons, and their mixtures, more particularly in C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC,

[0207] - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the range Indopol products marketed by INEOS Oligomers, with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE

[0208] - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non- volatile oils from the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS,

[0209] - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non- volatiles of the PURESYN® range marketed by ExxonMobil),

[0210] - decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers

[0211] - and their mixtures. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0212] They can be chosen from:

[0213] - fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in the C10-C26 range, preferably Monoalcohols. Advantageously, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as in particular lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0214] - triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C8 to C36, preferably from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Examples include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and rosehip oils; the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; as well as mixtures thereof;

[0215] - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in whichRCOO represents a carboxylic acid remnant comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10.Examples of such esters include isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, coco caprylate / caprate, and octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, and diethyl 2-Propylene glycol hexanoate. and their mixtures, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate;

[0216] - hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0217] - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, benzoate of C12- alcohols C15, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate;

[0218] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0219] - fatty alcohol esters or C24-C28 branched fatty acids such as citrate triisoarachidyl, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate;

[0220] - polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers and / or trimers unsaturated and diol such as those with INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and diol dimer such as dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0221] - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether;

[0222] - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different ones, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0223] - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1- copolymer hexadecene (INCI name);

[0224] - their mixtures.

[0225] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils as defined above, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils as defined above and mixtures thereof.

[0226] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol as defined above, more preferably chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, coco caprylate caprate and mixtures thereof, and even better designate isononyl isononanoate.;

[0227] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, preferably monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms as described above, in particular selected from oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol such as reference EUTANOL G marketed by BASF and their mixtures.

[0228] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated as described above, preferably selected from heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, and more preferably caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as reference PALMESTER 3585 marketed by KLK OLEO.

[0229] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils as described above, preferably selected from mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from the non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils selected from mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, the products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, and their mixtures.

[0231] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) c) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, alcohol oleic, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal, the products with INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, and their mixtures, more particularly chosen from products with INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, the mixtures with INCI name C15-19 Alkane such as Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, isononyl isononanoate.

[0232] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) consist of one or more polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils as defined above.

[0233] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) comprise at least one silicone oil as defined above, preferably chosen from among the dimethicones, such as the grade BELSIL DM 5 PLUS DIMETHICONE marketed by Wacker, the reference DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 10 CST marketed by DOW CHEMICAL or the reference XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1000 CST marketed by DOW CHEMICAL, or the PHENYL TRIMETHICONE such as the reference DOWSIL SH 556 FLUID marketed by DOW CHEMICAL.

[0234] Preferably when the non-volatile oil or oils are a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably chosen from non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with at least one volatile silicone oil, the amount of silicone oil is less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the possible non-volatile oil(s) are present in the composition at a rate of 0.1% to 50%, preferably 0.2% to 40%, preferably 0.5% to 35%, preferably 1% to 30%, more preferably between 2% and 20%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] By weight ratio denoted R, we mean the ratio of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (VO) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oil(s) (NVO), defined by:

[0237] R = [Sum of HV masses] / [Sum of HNV masses].

[0238] Preferably, R is such 0 < R < 10,000, more particularly 0.01 < R < 1,000; more particularly 0.05 < R < 500; preferably 0.1 < R < 100, or even 0.5 < R < 50.

[0239] The addition of non-volatile oils tends to reduce the film's resistance to wear, so it is preferable to use them in lower concentrations compared to volatile oils to maintain optimal durability while retaining a skin-like feel. comfortable (soft, moisturizing, non-sticky sensations after applying a composition). Volatile alcohols

[0240] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile alcohol.

[0241] The term "alcohol" means any chemical compound having in its structure at least one hydroxyl function.

[0242] The term "volatile substance" means any substance capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Said volatile substance is liquid at ambient temperature, and in particular has a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10⁻³ to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg).

[0243] By "volatile alcohol" is meant any compound having at least one hydroxyl group and in which more than 95% by weight of the compound is capable of evaporating in less than one hour at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) upon contact with a keratinous material such as skin or hair, particularly capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Said volatile substance is liquid at room temperature and preferably has a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 8,000 Pa.

[0244] Vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0245] The volatile alcohol(s) according to the present invention are preferably chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol; preferably chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably chosen from: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

[0246] Their viscosity at 20°C, measured with a HAAKE Rheostress 600 apparatus with a 60 mm diameter rotor, an angle of 2° at a shear rate of 200 s -1 is preferably from 0.3 to 3 mPa.s.

[0247] Advantageously, the volatile alcohol(s) are present in contents ranging from 1 to 70% and more preferably from 5 to 50%, and more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. One advantage of the composition of the invention is the ability to limit the level of volatile alcohol(s) which often causes discomfort (dryness, tingling) without losing solubilizing power.

[0248] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30; preferably 1.2 to 20; preferably 1.5 to 15.

[0249] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) is within the range preferably of 0.01 to 100, preferably of 0.1 to 10; preferably of 0.5 to 5; preferably of 1 to 4.

[0250] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the weight content of volatile oil(s) is greater than the weight content of volatile alcohol(s), which is itself greater than the weight content of natural resin(s), on the total weight of the composition (oil > alcohol > resin).

[0251] Thus, in the composition according to the invention, the sums (S) of the respective weight contents of volatile oil(s), volatile alcohol(s) and natural resin(s) preferably follow the rule:

[0252] S (volatile oil(s)) > S (volatile alcohol(s)) > S (natural resin(s)). The undesirable properties of said volatile alcohols are counterbalanced by a judiciously chosen volatile oil content, while ensuring a sufficient volatile alcohol content to allow solubilization of the natural resin. Modified polysaccharides

[0253] The composition of the invention comprises one or more modified polysaccharide(s).

[0254] - a "sugar" is a monosaccharide radical, or polysaccharide, and their derivatives O-protected sugars such as esters of sugars and (Cl-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids like acetic acid, sugars with amine group(s) and derivatives (Cl-C4)alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose. Examples of sugar radicals include: sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose;

[0255] - by "monosaccharide" is meant a monosaccharide sugar comprising at 5 carbon atoms of formula Cx(H2O)x, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and their solvates such as hydrates;

[0256] - by “polysaccharide” we mean a polysaccharide sugar which is a polymer consisting of several sugars linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, said polymers being composed of monosaccharide units (also called mono-glycosidic units) as defined previously, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the mono-osidic units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in alpha or beta anomer, each osidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly refers to polymers formed from a number of sugars (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, and y an integer which represents x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly inclusively between 3 and 3000, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, particularly inclusively between 15 and 1000, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200;

[0257] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are thickening polymers.

[0258] By "thickening polymer" is meant a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an alcoholic solution, or a lipoalcoholic solution containing 50% ethanol, or into an oil chosen from petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0259] The polysaccharide(s) useful to the invention are cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably cationic, nonionic or anionic, better nonionic, modified by the presence of at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon chain, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), 1) as defined below and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below: i) (C5-C28)alkyl, linear or branched, ii) (C5-C28)alkenyl, linear or branched, iii) (C5-C28)alkynyl, linear or branched, preferably the hydrocarbon group is linear;a) halogens such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, 1) RX with R representing a group selected from a) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, 2) heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, y) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, 3) cosmetic active, m) thiosulfate and X representing a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, or (thio)carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide; Ra representative; a hydrogen atom, or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, or aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a (Cl-C4)alkyl or (Cl-C4)alkoxy group, particularly a single substituent; and / or a') heteroatoms such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, (thio)carbonyl, c') or associations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide with r being 1 or 2, Ra being as defined above, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc being as defined above.

[0260] The "polysaccharides" are as defined above, in addition the sugar motifs -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W-, are optionally modified by substitution, by oxidation, by dehydration, and / or by reduction.

[0261] As examples of the sugars of the polysaccharide(s) useful to the invention, preferably include glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0262] Examples of modified polysaccharides derived from native gums such as those from tree or shrub exudates, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, plants, which have been modified by physical, chemical or enzymatic reactions, may be cited.

[0263] Native gums may be selected from: - gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum; - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer) - cellulose (polymer of glucose); - starch (polymer of glucose); - inulin and - pectin.

[0264] Particularly the modified polysaccharides are derived from: i) acacia gum; ii) ghatti gum; iii) karaya gum; iv) tragacanth gum; v) agar; vi) alginates; vii) carrageenans and furcelleranes; viii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin; preferably selected from xvi), xvii) and xviii), more preferably xvii).

[0265] The starch molecules xvii) used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches.

[0266] Starches can be modified by chemical or physical means: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

[0267] According to one embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are non-ionic.

[0268] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Temperature is one example of a physical treatment.

[0269] Examples of chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation, metathesis, and addition reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0270] Preferably these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0271] The modifiable starch molecules that can be used to manufacture modified starches according to the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas.

[0272] Starches can be modified by chemical or physical means: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

[0273] The starch molecules xvii) may be derived from any plant starch source, such as maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat, which have been modified to link at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon chain, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), 1) as defined above; and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined above. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The modified starch is preferably derived from potato starch.

[0274] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are polysaccharide ethers called alkylpolysaccharides whose alkyl radical comprises between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms.

[0275] Preferably the alkyl polysaccharides b) according to the invention are derived from cellulose or guar or mixtures thereof.

[0276] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are alkylcelluloses whose linear or branched alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms.

[0277] Alkylcellulose is an alkyl cellulose ether comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:

[0278] Cell-OM + R-Hal Cell-OR + MHal

[0279] with Hal representing a halogen such as Cl with M representing a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal Na or K, or alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal such as Na, Cell representing a polysaccharide radical such as cellulose, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl, and MHal the generated salt such as sodium chloride.

[0280] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. It is an ethyl ether of cellulose.

[0281] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead to a degree of substitution of 3 for each anhydroglucose unit, in other words to an alkoxy group content of between 40% and 60%, in particular around 55% (54.88%).

[0282] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44 to 50%.

[0283] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide of the invention is ethylcellulose in powder form. It is, for example, marketed under the trade names ETHOCEL Standard by Dow Chemicals, including ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium and ETHOCEL Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N, and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7 and N100, are particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention.

[0284] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide ethers are alkylguars (i.e., guar gums) modified by substitution of hydrogen of hydroxyl by a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms such as 2 carbon atoms.

[0285] The alkylguar polymers used in a Cl or C' 1 composition according to the invention are preferably ethylguar.

[0286] Ethylguar is known by the INCI name: Ci-C5 alkyl galactomannan.

[0287] It has more particularly a degree of substitution of 2 to 3, and in particular of 2.5 to 2.8.

[0288] Alkylated guar gums (with alkyl group in Ci-C6), including ethylguar, are described in particular in patent application EP 708114 and document RD9537807 (October 1995), as well as their preparation process.

[0289] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides b) are polysaccharide esters, in particular esters obtained by reaction between at least one polysaccharide such as dextrin with at least one linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acid comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0290] According to a particular embodiment, the modified polysaccharides of the invention are selected from xvi) cellulose or its derivatives such as hydroxy(CrC5)alkylcelluloses, xvii) starch and xviii) inulin; said polysaccharides xvi), xvii) and xviii) comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof where the linear or branched alkyl groups, preferably linear, are in the C8-C30 range and in particular:

[0291] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are chosen from mono- or polyalkylesters of saccharide or polysaccharide.

[0292] Among the mono- or polyalkylesters of saccharide or polysaccharide suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of alkyl or polyalkyl esters of dextrin or inulin.

[0293] This may include a mono- or polyester of dextrin (dextrin being derived from starch xvii) and at least one fatty acid (such as RC(O)-OH) and in particular corresponding to the following formula (XVIII): (XVIII)

[0294] Formula (XVIII) in which: • n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 3 to 200, in particular ranging from 20 to 150, and especially ranging from 25 to 50, • Ri,R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (RC(O)-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 7 to 29, in particular from 7 to 21, especially from 11 to 19, more particularly from 13 to 17, or even 15, carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of said radicals Rh R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen.

[0295] In particular, Rb R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (RC(O)-) in which R is a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals Rh R2 or R3 are different from hydrogen.

[0296] The set of radicals Rh R2 and R3 can represent an identical or different acyl group (RC(O)), and the acyl groups are in particular identical.

[0297] In particular, n previously stated varies advantageously from 25 to 50, in particular is equal to 38 in the general formula of the saccharide ester usable in the present invention.

[0298] In particular when the RH radicals R2 and / or R3, identical or different, represent an acyl group (RC(O)), derived from fatty carboxylic acid RC(O)OH preferably selected from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.

[0299] Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as the ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s). This can be used alone or in a mixture with other esters.

[0300] Advantageously, the dextrin and fatty acid ester has a degree of substitution less than or equal to 2.5 on the basis of one glucose unit, in particular ranging from 1.5 to 2.5, preferably from 2 to 2.5. The average weight molecular weight of the dextrin ester may in particular be from 10,000 to 150,000, in particular from 12,000 to 100,000 and even from 15,000 to 80,000.

[0301] Preferably the modified polysaccharide(s) of the invention are dextrin esters, and preferably are dextrin palmitates.

[0302] Dextrin esters, in particular dextrin palmitates, are commercially available under the name RHEOPEARL KL2®, MKL2®, TL® or KL® from Chiba Flour.

[0303] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified dextrin, preferably a dextrin ester, more particularly a dextrin and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid ester, linear or branched in Ci2-C24.

[0304] Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from saturated or unsaturated fatty acid esters, linear or branched in C14-C24, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin palmitate such as RHEOPEARL KL2® and RHEOPEARL TL2® marketed by CHIBA FLOUR, dextrin myristate such as that marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL MKL2® by CHIBA FLOUR, dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL TT2®, dextrin palmitate / hexyldecanoate marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL WX, or mixtures thereof.

[0305] According to a preferred embodiment, the modified polysaccharide refers to dextrin palmitate

[0306] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified inulin, preferably an inulin ester, more particularly an inulin and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid ester, linear or branched in Ci2-C24.

[0307] Preferably, the inulin ester is selected from saturated or unsaturated fatty acid esters, linear or branched in Ci4-C24 such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, preferably stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0308] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is a stearoyl inulin such as the references REOPEARL ISK2® and RHEOPEARL ISL2® marketed by CHIBA FLOUR or their mixtures.

[0309] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified cellulose, preferably a cellulose ester, more particularly a cellulose and saturated or unsaturated acid ester, linear or C2-C24 branched.

[0310] Preferably, the cellulose ester is chosen from saturated or unsaturated acid esters, linear or branched in C2-C10, preferably in C2-C6, especially in C2-C4, such as acetic acid, butyric acid or mixtures thereof.

[0311] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is a cellulose acetate butyrate such as the reference EASTMAN CELLULOSE ACETATE BUTYRATE# marketed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL.

[0312] Among polysaccharide esters, pullulan esters can also be mentioned. Pullulan is a polysaccharide made up of maltotriose units.

[0313] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are polysaccharide esters. Polysaccharide esters are understood to be polysaccharides in which at least one of the hydroxy radicals is esterified by an acid to form -OC(O)-R or -C(O)-OR ester groups in which R designates a saturated or unsaturated radical of 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 11 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 17 carbon atoms such as 13 carbon atoms.

[0314] Advantageously, the polysaccharide ester is myristoyl pullulan.

[0315] According to another embodiment, the modified polysaccharide(s) of the invention are cationic. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments for obtaining at least one cationic group are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches, and celluloses.

[0316] The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary, and comprise an aliphatic chain in C6-C30.

[0317] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are selected from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one aliphatic (or fatty) chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, and QUATRISOFT LM- X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by Dow Corning, CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (Ci2 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (Ci8 alkyl) sold by CRODA and SOFTCAT SL 100® sold by Dow Corning.

[0318] The non-ionic guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxylakylammonium groups in CrC2o, preferably (poly)hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6, we may in particular mention by way of example, the halide groups of hydroxymethyltrimmonium, hydroxyethyltrimmonium, hydroxypropyltrimmonium and hydroxybutyltrimmonium preferably halide of Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0319] Such cationic guar gums modified by hydroxyalkylammonium groups are for example sold by the company Solvay under the trade names Cationic Jaguar® C-14S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F Jaguar® C-13S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F Jaguar® C-17 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® C-500 STD Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® C-162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

[0320]

[0321] The total quantity of the modified polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 12% by weight, and in a particularly preferred manner from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0322] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total quantity of resin(s) and the total quantity of the modified polysaccharide(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.05 to 200, more preferably from 0.1 to 100, more preferably from 0.2 to 50, or even better from 0.5 to 40, preferably from 0.5 to 20, preferably from 1 to 10. Other possible components of the oily phase: Wax(s)

[0323] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0324] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C which can go up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120 °C.

[0325] In particular, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 °C.

[0326] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a wax content of 0.2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.5% to 20%, more particularly 1% to 15%.

[0327] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is solid, in particular anhydrous. It can then be in the form of a stick. The paste-like compound(s)

[0328] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more paste compounds.

[0329] By "pasty compound" in the present invention, we mean a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 °C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0330] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optionally water and optionally one or more organic solvents other than the oils a) and alcohols b) defined according to the invention.

[0331] Advantageously, the total oil phase content is in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0332] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase of composition defined above.

[0333] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oily composition, in particular anhydrous, such as an oily dispersion or an oily solution.

[0334] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition further presents an aqueous phase.

[0335] Advantageously, the total oil phase content is in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0336] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents.

[0337] A suitable water for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0338] In the present invention, a water-soluble solvent is defined as a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0339] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0340] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention in particular lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0341] The aqueous phase is present, preferably, in a concentration of 2 to 95% by weight, preferably of 10 to 90% by weight, preferably within the range of 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly of 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Surfactants

[0342] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more surfactant(s), preferably non-ionic, ionic or mixtures thereof.

[0343] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not include a surfactant.

[0344] The term "surfactant" refers to a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactants are amphiphilic molecules, which have two parts of different polarities: one lipophilic (attracting fats), which is nonpolar, and the other hydrophilic (miscible or soluble in water), which is polar. The lipophilic part is generally a fat chain, and the other part, miscible with water, is polar and / or protic.

[0345] By "ionic" we mean anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic.

[0346] By "fatty chain" is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising more than 6 atoms, preferably between 6 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or not.

[0347] Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in *The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection* (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0348] According to a first particular embodiment, the composition of the invention contains at least one non-ionic surfactant, siliconed or non-siliconized.

[0349] Among the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention, one can cite, alone or in mixtures, fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, these 3 types of compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 30.Other examples include ethylene oxide and propylene copolymers, ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (CiO-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0350] The surfactant(s) represent in total particularly from 0.01% to 30% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, better between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition. Pigments

[0351] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one pigment.

[0352] Pigments are defined as white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0353] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 2% of pigments, preferably at least 5% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 10 to 30% by weight and preferably from 9 to 20% by weight of pigment(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0354] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0355] By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0356] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0357] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0358] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an effective particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., *Light Scattering by Small Particles*, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0359] D

[50] represents the maximum size of particles that have 50% of their volume

[0360] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, titanium dioxide and iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, marketed under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI, may be cited more particularly.

[0361] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.

[0362] By nacres, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0363] The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on oxychloride of bismuth. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metallic oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0364] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0365] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can mention TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® mother-of-pearls (on a mica base) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® mother-of-pearls marketed by the company MERCK, PRESTIGE® mother-of-pearls on a mica base marketed by the company ECKART and SUNSHINE® mother-of-pearls on a synthetic mica base marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

[0366] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0367] By way of illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be used in the context of the present invention, we can, in particular, mention the gold-colored mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD, under the name of Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); the bronze mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) ® (Microna);brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502)® (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), mother-of-pearl; white with a silvery sheen, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver® and orange-pink-green golden mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their blends.

[0368] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, one can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say, unified and stabilized such as that produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, stabilized means free from any effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0369] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to produce the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

[0370] The metallic-reflecting particles usable in the invention are in particular selected from:

[0371] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative,

[0372] - particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, monomaterial or multi-material, covered at least partially by at least one metallic sheen layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and

[0373] - mixtures of said particles.

[0374] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0375] Metallic derivatives are defined as compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides

[0376] By way of illustration of these particles, one can cite aluminium particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[0377] Other examples include copper metal powders or alloy mixtures, such as reference 2844 marketed by RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those marketed under the name ROTOSAFE 700® by ECKART, silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISION AIRE BRIGHT SILVER® by ECKART, and alloy particles metallic, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® by the company Eckart.

[0378] It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0379] The goniochromatic staining agent can be chosen, for example, from interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal staining agents.

[0380] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures usable in compositions made according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: AFSiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL® by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).For example, these pigments include the silica / titanium dioxide / tin dioxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK, and the silica / titanium dioxide / mica / tin dioxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Another example is the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. For instance, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color shifts from gold-green to gray-red for SiO2 layers between 320 and 350 nm; and from red to gold for SiO2 layers between 380 and 400 nm. From violet to green for SiO2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

[0381] Examples of pigments with a polymer multilayer structure include those marketed by 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0382] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, one can use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER. Hydrophobic coated pigments

[0383] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.

[0384] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous because it can be used in large quantities in conjunction with a large quantity of water. Moreover, when treated with a hydrophobic compound, it exhibits a predominant affinity for the oily gel phase, which can then carry it.

[0385] Of course, the compositions according to the invention may also contain uncoated pigments.

[0386] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0387] For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0388] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0389] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0390] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0391] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% % by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0392] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0393] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0394] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

[0395] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0396] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. Silicone surfactant

[0397] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be treated on the surface totally or partially with a silicone compound.

[0398] Silicone surfactants may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0399] By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to the silicon atoms. Non-elastomer organopolysiloxane

[0400] Examples of non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

[0401] The alkoxy group can be represented by the RO- radical such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

[0402] A method for treating the surface of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists of dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent, then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are formed between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0403] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular selected from polydimethylsiloxanes. Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

[0404] Alkoxy-functional silanes are notably described by Witucki in A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

[0405] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes marketed under the references Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

[0406] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino, or imino is described in JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for processing pigments. Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0407] Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone skeleton as described in US patents 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US patents 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582, may be used.

[0408] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers having in their structure the following formula motif (II):

[0409] [Chem. 11] (II) in which the identical or different Gb radicals represent hydrogen or a Ci-Cio alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the identical or different G2 radicals represent a Ci-Cio alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer from 10 to 350, provided that one of the parameters a and c is not equal to 0.

[0410] Preferably, the above formula motif (I) exhibits at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: - the radicals Gi designate an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; -n is non-zero, and the G2 radicals represent a divalent radical in Ci-C3, preferably a propylene radical; -G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the type alkyl (Ci-Cio)methacrylate, preferably of the type isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.

[0411] Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type linker, mixed polymer motifs of the poly(meth)acrylic acid and poly(meth)acrylate type.

[0412] Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate polymer motifs are grafted via a thiopropylene linker. Silicone resins

[0413] The silicone surfactant may be chosen from silicone resins such as those defined above. Fluorinated surfactant

[0414] The pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a compound of fluorinated nature.

[0415] Fluorinated surfactants may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropoly ethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropoly ether groups.

[0416] A perfluoroalkyl radical is understood to be an alkyl radical in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0417] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS.

[0418] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are specifically described in application JP H05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl amine diethanol phosphates marketed by Asahi Glass under the reference Asahi Guard AG530® may be used.

[0419] Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, we can mention perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorinated hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon organoperfluorinated compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

[0420] Among the perfluoroalkanes, we can mention the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

[0421] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), we can mention perfluorodecalin sold under the name FLUTEC PP5 GMP by the Company RHODIA, perfluoro(methyldecalin), perfluoro(C3-C5)alkyl-cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

[0422] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes we can mention the derivatives of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, the derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and the perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0423] Among the perfluoroarenes, we can cite the perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-l-naphthalene.

[0424] As an example of commercial references for pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, we can cite: - yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei; - red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei; -black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100® by the company Daito Kasei; - titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei; -yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki; - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and - DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under reference T 9506® by the company Waver-Jenkinson. Fluoro-silicone surfactant

[0425] The pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a fluoro-silicone compound.

[0426] The fluoro-silicone compound can be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyltrialcoxysilanes.

[0427] Examples of perfluoroalkyl silanes include LP-IT® and LP-4T® products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

[0428] As an example of commercial references for pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, one can cite titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. Other lipophilic surfactants

[0429] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from

[0430] (i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

[0431] As examples of metallic soaps, one can cite in particular metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0432] The metal in metallic soap may include zinc or magnesium.

[0433] As a metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.

[0434] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

[0435] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0436] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0437] The salts of these compounds may be the salts of aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium.

[0438] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative can be in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate.

[0439] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0440] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0441] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0442] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate

[0443] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from vii) waxes natural plant or animal waxes or synthetic polar waxes;

[0444] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from viii) fatty esters, in particular from jojoba esters;

[0445] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from ix) phospholipids.

[0446] The waxes mentioned in the compounds cited above may be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

[0447] They may in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, possibly containing ester or hydroxyl groups. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0448] Polar wax is defined as a wax containing chemical compounds with at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may include, for example, alcohol, ester, or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, and Fisher-Tropsch waxes are not considered polar waxes.

[0449] In particular, polar waxes have a mean solubility parameter ôa of HANSEN at 25°C such that ôa > 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2 and better ôa > 1 (J / cm3)1 / 2: where ôp and ôh are respectively the polar and interaction-type contributions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

[0450] The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN, The three dimensional solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

[0451] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0452] - ôp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles thus that the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0453] The parameters ôp and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0454] A polar wax is notably made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

[0455] By way of illustration and not limitation of these polar waxes, we may mention in particular natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes from China, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

[0456] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0457] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, or with a fatty ester, in particular with a jojoba ester.

[0458] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, notably a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0459] As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI, may be mentioned more particularly. Pigments not coated by a hydrophobic compound

[0460] As stated previously, a composition may further contain pigments not coated by a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0461] These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.

[0462] These pigments may be mineral pigments, in particular as defined above.

[0463] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0464] By organic pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0465] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0466] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0467] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0468] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0469] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0470] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1). Nature of the hydrophilic coating

[0471] As stated previously, these other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0472] Said hydrophilic compound allowing surface treatment of a pigment to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0473] Examples of biological polymers include carbohydrate-type monomer-based polymers.

[0474] In particular, examples include biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galactoarabinans; glycosaminoglycans; the glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0475] Examples of carbohydrates include polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, with the general formula: Cx(H2O)y

[0476] in which x and y can range from 1 to 1,000,000.

[0477] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0478] Examples of carbohydrates include amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified maize starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum Vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0479] Alkylene glycols in Ci-C2o or alkylene glycol ethers in Ci-C20 can still be used as surface treatment agents, alone or used in combination with tri-Ci-C20-alkylsilanes.

[0480] Examples include pigments treated on the surface with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane, such as, for example, pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane marketed by the company KOBO under the name of SW pigments.

[0481] Silicones such as dimethicones possessing hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, may also be suitable for the invention as surface treatment agents. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise, as repeating units, Ci-C20 alkylene oxides, such as ethylenic or propylenic.

[0482] As an example, we can cite the pigment treated with PEG-12-Dimethicone, marketed by the company SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the name LCW AQ® Pigment.

[0483] The quantity of pigments coated by at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigments is in particular conditioned by the purpose of the cosmetic composition in question and its adjustment is of course within the competence of the formulator of the composition.

[0484] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular with a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate. Additives

[0485] The compositions according to the invention may, in addition to additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products, include organic UV filters other than those described above; inorganic UV filters; moisturizing agents such as polyols like glycerin, propanediol, and pentylene glycol; fillers; colorants; thickening or gelling agents; preservatives, chelating agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. Fillers

[0486] Compositions according to the invention may also include at least one filler, of an organic or mineral nature, enabling, in particular, the provision of additional properties of matte finish, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0487] By filler, we mean colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition. Whether mineral or organic in nature, they contribute to giving body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0488] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0489] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0490] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0491] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile like Expacel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, and metallic soaps derived from organic acids. Carboxyls having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, PolyporeO L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US patent 5538793. It may also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range. Silica particles

[0492] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the silica particles chosen by the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, the silica particles different from the former, and mixtures thereof. i. Hydrophobic silica aerogels #

[0493] Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (notably by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0494] The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogels (INCI name Silica Silylate).

[0495] By hydrophobic silica is meant any silica whose surface is treated by silylation agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups by silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0496] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0497] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.

[0498] By hydrophobic aerogel particles, we mean any aerogel-type particle having a water absorption capacity at the WET POINT of less than 0.1ml / g, i.e., less than 10g of water per 100g of particle.

[0499] The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and denoted WP, ​​corresponds to the quantity of a solvent (expressed in grams or milliliters) that must be added to 1 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the solvent (water or oil) uptake of powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of solvent adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:

[0500] A glass plate (25 x 25 mm) is placed on a balance, and a quantity m of 1 g of powder is weighed onto the glass plate. A solvent (water or isononyl isononanoate, for example) is then added drop by drop. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, mixing the mixture regularly (every 3 to 4 drops) with a spatula. The addition of solvent is stopped when a homogeneous paste is obtained. This paste should spread easily on the glass plate without cracking or lumps. The mass of solvent required to obtain the wet point is recorded. The average of 3 trials is calculated. Knowing the density of the solvent, the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of solvent used is deduced. The solvent intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0501] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention preferably have an oil absorption capacity measured at the WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0502] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 200 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) less than 1500 pm and preferably 1 to 30 pm, preferably 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.

[0503] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0504] The particle sizes of the aerogel according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern Master Sizer 2000®. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination of an effective particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., *Light Scattering by Small Particles*, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0505] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density ranging from 0.02g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.02g / cm3 to 0.08g / cm3.

[0506] Within the framework of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density protocol: Forty grams of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then placed on the STAMPF VOLUMETER STAV 2003® apparatus; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 compactions (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured directly on the cylinder. The compacted density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

[0507] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Svallant of 5 to 60 m² / cm², preferably of 10 to 50 m² / cm² and better of 15 to 40 m² / cm².

[0508] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM.p where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0509] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are inorganic and more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the properties stated above.

[0510] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, one can cite, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0511] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201®, AEROGEL OGD 201® and AEROGEL TLD 203®, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200®.

[0512] In particular, aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270® (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0513] We will also use the aerogel marketed under the name Enova® Aerogel MT 1100® (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company CABOT, whose particles have an average size ranging from 2-25 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0514] Hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably still from 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Other silica particles

[0515] Other usable silicas can be natural and untreated. Examples include the silicas offered under the names SILLITIN N85®, SILLITIN N87®, SILLITIN N82®, SILLITIN V85® and SILLITIN V88® by the company HOFFMANN MINERAL.

[0516] They can be pyrogenated.

[0517] Fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing finely divided silica. This process makes it possible, in particular, to obtain hydrophilic silicas that have a significant number of silanol groups on their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups. In particular, silanol groups can be substituted by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

[0518] Hydrophobic groups can be: (a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are designated Silica Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). (b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are designated Silica Dimethyl Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995).

[0519] Silica powders other than silica aerogels include, in particular: - porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company ASAHI GLASS; - amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name SA SUNSPHERE® H 33®, SA SUNSPHERE® H53® by the company AGC SITECH; - precipitated silica microspheres for example coated with mineral wax such as polyethylene and notably sold under the name ACEMATT OK 412® by the company EVONIK DEGUSSA.

[0520] As silica powder, porous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company AGC SITECH will be used in particular.

[0521] Silica particles other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0522] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention shall comprise a mixture comprising at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles such as those described above and other silica particles such as those described above, in particular porous silica microspheres. Additional coloring agents

[0523] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0524] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly depending on the intensity of the color effect sought and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

[0525] The additional colouring materials suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.

[0526] By water-soluble colouring material, in the sense of the invention, is understood any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.

[0527] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants may be cited, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0528] Water-soluble colourings include, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0529] By liposoluble colouring material, in the sense of the invention, is understood any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat body and capable of colouring.

[0530] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as fat-soluble colorants, synthetic or natural such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. Composition form

[0531] The composition of the invention may be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0532] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition is monophasic oily.

[0533] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, in which case it is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, or possibly a composition with several separate phases (such as a bi-phase).

[0534] By "water-in-oil" or W / O emulsion, we mean a composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase that are not miscible; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily (continuous) phase so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0535] Continuous oil-phase dosage forms are preferred in the case of the composition of the invention, where the performance driver for adhesion is provided by the natural resin solubilized in the oil phase. These forms also promote pigment dispersion and homogeneity, thus optimizing the coverage obtained for the film produced after application of the composition according to the invention (as demonstrated in the examples).

[0536] The composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for the manufacture of cosmetic products with fluid textures. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of a viscoelastic liquid ranging from fluid to viscous, whose G* modulus (viscoelastic modulus) is between 0.1 and 20,000 Pa, more particularly between 1 and 5,000 Pa, or even between 10 and 1,000 Pa. The G* modulus is measured with a stress rheometer, and the values ​​are taken on the viscoelastic plate at 25°C. Applications

[0537] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin, body or face care composition, in particular a face care composition.

[0538] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0539] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously take the form of a basic composition for makeup.

[0540] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a liquid product for lip makeup, in particular in the form of a liquid lipstick.

[0541] According to another sub-equation of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin makeup composition, particularly for the face. It may thus be a foundation, an eyeshadow, or a blush.

[0542] It may also be a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or corrector, an eyebrow product, a skin care product, a sun product, or a hygiene product, or even a hair styling product, or hair coloring; or even a nail polish.

[0543] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0544] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as mass percentages.

[0545] The following examples provide a better understanding of the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples Ingredients :

[0546] [Tables 1] GLYCERYL ROSINATE PROTIUM HEPTAPHYLLUM RESIN CANDELILLIN A Resin C Resin B Resin A wax Melting point (Tf) °C - - - 66-71 Softening point °C 86 84-88 42 40-45 45-52 Glass transition temperature (Tg) °C 43 40-45 51 48-55 34 -

[0547] [Tables2] Resin INCI Name Commercial Name Supplier A EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT CANDELILLA R ESINE-1 JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS B PROTIUM HEPTAPHYLL UM RESIN CITROBREU CITROLEO C GLYCERYL ROSINATE RESIESTER GUM A 35 LURESA RESINAS SL Gelling Agent INCI Name Commercial Name Supplier D ETHYLCELLULOSE AQUALON EC N7 PHARM ASHLAND E MYRISTOYL PULLULAN MYRISTOYL PU LLULAN KATAKURA CHI KKARIN F Cl-5 ALKYLGALACTOM ANNAN N HANCE AG 200 (LOW MOLECUL AR WEIGHT) ASHLAND Preparation of compositions

[0548] Procedure and equipment used for each test:

[0549] Each resin (A, B, C) and each gelling agent (D, E, F, G, H) were used in mixtures of ethanol and isododecane at room temperature, according to the weight proportions indicated in the following Tables, and according to the protocol described below:

[0550] - Mix the resin with the solvents under magnetic stirring at 1200 rpm, for 24 hours at room temperature of 25°C

[0551] - Add the gelling agent by sprinkling it into the resin / solvent mixture

[0552] - Leave under agitation until the resin is completely dissolved and the polymer deployment.

[0553] - Weigh the entire mixture (beaker + mixture), readjust the quantity of volatile solvents (if (a slight loss of birds has been observed)

[0554] - The following colored raw materials are then added: the pigment organic RED 7 or mineral pigments Iron oxides coated using a rotor-stator at room temperature (25°C).

[0555] Protocol for evaluating resistance to dry friction and in the presence of oil

[0556] Certain compositions are evaluated for their resistance to rubbing, by colorimetric measurements on dry film before and after abrasion, the protocol of which is detailed below.

[0557] Protocol for spreading compositions into a film:

[0558] The product is spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) which allows for adjustment of both the speed and the distance over which it is spread. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent the support on which the spreading is performed from moving. Contrast cards with a black background and an uncoated white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The spreading thickness is adjustable using a square spreader placed on the support so that it spreads by leveling when the platform is switched on. Each section of the spreader allows for spreading to a different thickness ranging from 25 µm to 200 µm. The chosen thickness is 25 µm to approximate the thickness of the in vivo film. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during the spreading process. The spreading speed is set to 2.54cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at 34°C and ambient RH (50% RH) on a hot plate.

[0559] Friction resistance test protocol:

[0560] The abrasion resistance test is performed by colorimetric measurements on a dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is carried out by attaching a strip of tissue paper (Chicopee® Veraclean# Polish Plus) to the edge of the spreader at 25 µm. A 960 g weight is added on top of the spreader during abrasion. The bench speed is set at 2.54 cm / s.

[0561] The color measurement before and after abrasion is performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. The contact measurement ensures the absence of light pollution.

[0562] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; Measurement SCI / SCE; Geometry d / 8°.

[0563] The color measurements on the two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the coverage of a foundation by calculating the "contrast ratio", (CR%) i.e. YFN / YFB x 100, where YFN and YFB are respectively the luminance values ​​measured on black background and white background, the latter being higher the more covering the foundation.

[0564] To assess resistance to friction, the "Contrast Ratio" is measured before friction (CR Dry Deposition, %) and after abrasion (CR Dry Deposition, %). The ratio [CR Dry Deposition / CR Dry Deposition] * 100, expressed as a percentage, indicates the film's resistance to friction: the higher this ratio, the more resistant the film is to friction.

[0565] Note: To obtain each Contrast Ratio value, at least two contrast cards are used for each composition, which are evaluated with three CR measurements on each card. Each CR value therefore represents an average of six measurements.

[0566] The resistance to friction of the dry film was tested for two types of coloured compositions 1) with organic pigments and then 2) with iron oxides (foundation prototypes).

[0567] The resistance of the film to olive oil was tested for compositions colored with organic pigments (lip prototypes).

[0568] In vitro fragmentation test on FP40 elastomeric substrate - evaluation of the adhesion and cohesion properties of deposits

[0569] Using the aluminum stencil (20 mm long and 10 mm wide opening, 100 µm thick), the film is manually poured using a pipette onto an FP40 support (60 mm long and 10 mm wide test specimen; the FP40 substrate is butadiene-nitrile elastomer containing a plasticizer (diethylhexyl sebacate); from Supplier BRAMMER, Product Reference JOINT DIVERS PLAQUE HPYF000504N4I01, 60X1000x2 strip in FP40, Brand BUSAK-LU), then trimmed to obtain a 100 µm thick film. The test specimens are then left to dry for 24 hours at 35°C on a hot plate. The fragmentation test is performed using a TA texture analyzer. XT from Stable Micro Systems with tensile modules. The specimen is placed between the jaws 1 cm from each side of the deposit during the tensile test, it is then stressed until 100% deformation at a constant speed of 300 mm / min.Resistance to fragmentation is observed visually and scored between 1 (complete fragmentation of the deposit) and 5 (total absence of cracks). Examples of visuals associated with the different scores are shown below.

[0570] [Tables3] Score 1 2 3 4 5 Description No resistance, adhesion, or cohesion (delamination and cracking) Poor resistance (delamination or numerous cracks over almost the entire surface) Average resistance (presence of several cracks on at least 50% of the surface) Good resistance (few small local cracks on less than 50% of the surface) Excellent resistance (no delamination or cracking)

[0571] Examples 1 to 23 - Results of friction resistance of compositions comprising Candelilla Resin and / or Ethylcellulose

[0572] [Tables4] Essai Resin de Ca ndelil la (A), (%m) Ethylcell ulose N7 (D) (%m) Ethano 1 (%m) Iso do-déc ane (%m) RED 7 CI 15850 (%m) [CR Fr ot Sec / CR Sec] (%) [CR Resi n HI Stantation] (A) frag / CR 0 0 45 45 10 50.0 + 2, 1 13.8 + 2.5 - 2(HI) 50 42.5 42.5 10 61.2 + 3, 9 24.9 + 3.9 3 3(HI) + 3.8 4 4( HI ) 15 0 37.5 37.5 10 94.0 + 5, 2 46.8 + 0.7 5 5( HI 10 100.3 + 1.7 88.5 + 2.8 1 7( HI) 0 15 37.5 37.5 10 98.8 + 2, 8 99.7 + 1.0 1 8( Ex) 0.5 2 44.27 + 13 44.25 3.2 2 9( Ex) 1 5 42 42 10 97.82 + 2.3 56.92 + 2.6 2 10 (Ex) 5 5 40 40 10 99.2 + 0.0.8 43.4 + 6.55 3 11 (Ex) 100.9 + 2.0 - - 12 (Ex) 10 2.5 38.75 38.75 10 98.7 + 0.6 - 13 (Ex) 10 5 37.5 37.5 10 98.8 + 1.9 + 1 7 10 35 35 10 99.9 + 1.7 − 15 (Ex) 10 15 32.5 32.5 10 100.1 + 0.8 - 16 (Ex) 10 20 30 30 10 99.8 + 1, 2 -

[0573] Compositions outside the scope of this invention containing only Candelilla resin exhibit a lack of adhesion in the presence of olive oil. Compositions outside the scope of this invention containing only Ethylcellulose exhibit a lack of adhesion to fragmentation, with the appearance of a very high level of cracking of the deposit, resulting in discomfort on the skin.

[0574] Only the compositions of the invention, containing combinations of Candelilla resin and Ethylcellulose, exhibit both excellent resistance to dry rubbing, good resistance in the presence of olive oil and good resistance to fragmentation.

[0575] [Tables5] Gelling Tests (Nature and %m) Ca ndelilla Resin, (%m) Eth anol (%m) Iso Dod Eca ne (%m) RED 7 CI 158 50 (%m) [CR Frot Sec / CR Dry] [CR Frot Olive Oil / CR Sec] (%) 1( HI) - 0 0 45 45 10 50.0 + 2.1 13.8 + 2.5 3( HI) - 0 10 40 40 10 80.3 + 3.6 28.8 + 3.8 4( HI) - 0 15 37.5 37.5 10 94.0 + 5.2 46.8 + 0.7 17 (HI) Myristoyl pullu lan 5 0 42.5 42.5 10 53.2 + 8.3 23.5 + 2.3 18 (Ex) Myristoyl pullu lan 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 100.7 + 2.7 75.9 + 4.8 19 (HI) Cl-5 Alkyl gala ctomannan 5 0 42.5 42.5 10 95.3 + 4.1 43.2 + 0.5 20 (Ex) Cl-5 Alkyl gala ctomannan 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 100.9 + 2.7 80.7 + 6.4

[0576] The formula of the invention, containing Candelilla resin associated with Myristoyl Pullulan or Cl-5 Alkyl galactomannan, also show excellent dry resistance and good resistance in the presence of olive oil.

[0577] [Tableauxô] Candelilla Resin Test (A), (%w) Ethylcellulose N7 (D) (%w) Ethanol (%w) Isododecane (%w) Iron Oxides * (%w) [CR Dry Fr / CR Dry] (%) ET 21 (Ex) 10 2.5 38.75 38.75 10 99.8 6.3 22 (Ex) 10 5 37.5 37.5 10 98.5 4.8 23 (Ex) 10 15 32.5 32.5 10 100.6 8.0

[0578] *Iron oxide coated with INCI name: IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE.

[0579] The compositions of the invention containing iron oxides in the presence of resin and modified polysaccharide also show excellent resistance to dry rubbing (approximately 100%).

[0580] Examples 24 to 26 - Dry or oil friction resistance results Olive oil in the presence of Glyceryl Rosinate

[0581] [Tables7] Gelling Test (Nature and %m) Glyceryl rosinate (%m) EtOH (%m) Isodo-decane (%m) RED 7 CI 158 50 (%m) [CR Fr ot Sec / CR Sec] (%) [CR Frot Olive Oil / CR Sec] (%) 24 (Ex) Ethyl cellulose 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 99.8 ± 1.0 52.3 ± 2.2 25 (Ex) Myristoyl pu llulan 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 101.8 ± 1.9 - 26 (Ex) Cl-5 Alkyl g alactomannan 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 99.7 ± 1.6 -

[0582] The compositions of the invention containing a modified polysaccharide associated with Glyceryl Rosinate resin exhibit excellent resistance to dry rubbing, and good resistance in the presence of oil.

[0583] Examples 27 to 29 - Results of resistance to dry friction or with olive oil in the presence of Protium Heptaphyllum

[0584] [Tables8] Gelling Test (N ature and %m) Protiu m hept a-phy llum (%m) Ethano 1, (%m) Isodo-decane (%m) RED 7 CI 158 50 (%m) [CR Frot Sec / CR Se c] (%) [CR Frot Olive Oil / CR Se c] (%) 27 (Ex) Ethylcell ulose 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 99.3 ±1.3 65.4 + 2.3 28 (Ex) Myristoyl pullulan 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 99.7 ± 1.8 - 29 (Ex) Cl-5 A Ikyl gala ctoman nan 5 10 37.5 37.5 10 99.5 ± 1.3 -

[0585] The compositions of the invention containing various oily gelling agents associated with Protium Heptaphylum resin exhibit excellent resistance to dry friction and good stability in the presence of oil. Examples 30 to 38 - Tights Test Tights Measurement Protocol

[0586] The support used is a strip of "Supplale": a white imitation leather sheet (polyurethane glued onto cotton-polyester fabric) measuring 150mm x 25mm, sold under the name Supplale, code DFSUP15025B, supplier Soudotique).

[0587] The product is applied to the Supplale strip over a length of 10 cm using an applicator to obtain a homogeneous deposit (4 passes of the applicator along the entire length, dipping the applicator back into the product between passes). The support with the sample is left to dry on a thermostatically controlled plate at 32°C and ambient RH (50% RH) for 1 hour. The specimen is then placed on the base of the texture tester or on a metal plate secured with double-sided tape. The tackiness measurement is performed using a TAXT2 plus type texture tester. The 20 mm diameter tip containing a fixed white Supplale® disc is positioned on the texture tester.

[0588] The parameters of the compression tests with time holding are as follows: Approach velocity (or pre-velocity): 1 mm / s; Velocity (from the contact detection): 0.5 mm / s; Force: 800g; Holding time: 5 s; Retraction speed (or post-speed): 40mm / s.

[0589] The stickiness is characterized by the work of debonding measured during unloading (tensile phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve along the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter. The lower the work value, the less sticky the deposit.

[0590] [Tables9] Test Candelilla resin, %mass Ethylcellulose, %mass Red7, %mass Isododecane, %mass Ethanol, %mass Tack at 60 min, J / m2 30 (Ex) 10.00 3.97 10.00 44.28 31.75 0.17 31 (Ex) 20.00 3.97 10.00 36.28 29.75 0.19 32 (Ex) 10.00 9.91 10.00 14.76 55.33 0.11 33 (Ex) 20.00 9.91 10.00 6.76 53.33 0.11 34 (Ex) 5.00 6.94 10.00 33.52 44.54 0.16 35 (Ex) 25.00 6.94 10.00 17.52 40.54 0.12 36 (Ex) 15.00 1.00 10.00 55.04 18.96 0.09 37 (Ex) 15.00 6.94 10.00 25.52 42.54 0.11 38 (Ex) 10.00 12.88 10.00 0.00 67.12 0.12

[0591] The determined stickiness limit is 1.5 J / m2. Beyond this, the deposit becomes noticeably sticky.

[0592] All deposits show an absence of stickiness after drying of the films (at 60 min).

[0593] The test results in the table above show that the film deposited from each of the compositions according to the invention does not exhibit a sticky effect (0.12 J / m2).

[0594] Examples 39 and 40 - Other examples of compositions according to the invention

[0595] The product is applied using a dip applicator (for lips) to the forearm over a 3 cm x 3 cm area. Ease of application, play time, and homogeneity are assessed qualitatively. The product is allowed to dry completely (approximately 5-10 minutes). Dry resistance is visually assessed after contact with a tissue (trace intensity). Resistance to olive oil is assessed after adding a drop of olive oil to the application (oil is spread manually over the entire application area). Then, resistance to olive oil is visually assessed after contact with a tissue (trace intensity).

[0596] [TableauxlO] INCI (US / EU) Chemical Name % Concentration ALCOHOL DENAT. DENATURED ETHYL ALCOHOL ABSOLUTE 30.95 ETHYLCELLULOSE CELLULOSE ETHYL ETHER 13.4 ISODODECANE ISODODECANE 20.65 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT / EUPHORBIA CERIFERA CANDELILLA EXTRACT RESIN EXTRACTED FROM CANDELILLA WAX 20 RED 7 / CI 15850 CALCIUM SALT OF RED LITHOL B 15

[0597] [Tables II] INCI (US / EU) Chemical Name % Concentration ALCOHOL DENAT. DENATURED ETHYL ALCOHOL ABSOLUTE 34.26 ETHYLCELLULOSE CELLULOSE ETHYL ETHER 12.09 ISODODECANE ISODODECANE 34.26 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT / EUPHORBIA CERIFERA CANDELILLA EXTRACT RESIN EXTRACTED FROM CANDELILLA WAX 9.4 RED 7 / CI 15850 CALCIUM SALT OF RED LITHOL B 10

[0598] Examples 41 and 42 - Results obtained with other solvents

[0599] [Tables 12] Essay Candelilla Resin (%m) Ethylcell ulose (% m) Ethyla cetate (%m) Pigments (%m) [CR Frot Sec / CR Se c] (%) [CR Frot Oil and Oil / CR Se c] (%) Res istance fra gmentation 41 Ex 5 5 5 80 95, 195, 49, 76 + 1.7 1

[0600] [Tables 13] Essay Can delilla Resin (%m) Ethyl-cellulose (%m) Ethyl cetate (%m) Cetiol UT (%m) Pigment (%m) [CR Frot Sec / CR Se c] (%) [CR Frot Oil and Oil / CR Se c] (%) Res istance fragmentation 1.1 85.1 + 6.6 4

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a- at least one volatile oil, b- at least one volatile alcohol, c- at least one natural resin, and d- at least one modified polysaccharide; wherein the "volatile" oil, respectively the "volatile" alcohol, means an oil, respectively an alcohol, having a vapor pressure in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure; and the weight ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol(s) to the amount of natural resin(s) is greater than 1.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of the total quantity of volatile oil(s) and volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is greater than 1; preferably the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is greater than 0.5; preferably greater than 1.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably selected from C8-C16 isoalkanes, preferably the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from isododecane, linear or branched alkanes, in C9-C12, and / or mixtures of n-undecane (Cl1) and n-tridecane (Cl3); preferably it comprises isododecane.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil or oils are at least partially of vegetable origin.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is within the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20; preferably 5 to 18, preferably 8 to 15.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile alcohol is selected from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably selected from: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably ethanol.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) to the quantity of natural resin(s) is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30; preferably 1.2 to 20; preferably 1.5 to 15.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of volatile alcohol(s) is within the range preferably of 0.01 to 100, preferably of 0.1 to 10; preferably of 0.5 to 5; preferably of 1 to 4.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight content of volatile oil(s) is greater than the weight content of volatile alcohol(s), which is itself greater than the weight content of natural resin(s), on the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one resin is selected from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins, i) damars, j) elemis, k) frankincense, l) galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellacs, r) styrax, s) turpentine, t) colophons, in particular rosin, rosinate and u) tall oils, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of these resins; preferably the natural resin(s) are chosen from j), k), t), u) and v), and mixtures of these resins; said resins may in particular be esterified, salified, in the form of adducts, modified by phenols, dimerized and / or hydrogenated.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one resin with an INCI name including at least one of the following terms: EUPHORBIA CERIFERA WAX EXTRACT, CANDELLILA WAX EXTRACT, 76 PROTIUM HEPTAPHYLLUM RESIN, SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, or GLYCERYL ROSINATE; and their mixtures.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin contains at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, or even better at least 70% of terpene compounds, by weight on the total weight of resin.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises less than 70% by weight of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%.

15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin contains at least one diterpene compound; preferably derived from abietic acid; in particular natural or chemically modified; preferably selected from rosin resins, in particular said resins comprise rosin acids, preferably predominantly selected from abietic and pimaric type acids, their derivatives in particular obtained from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification of rosin acids, for example with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol; and mixtures thereof;preferably said resin contains at least one rosin acid ester selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, dilinoleyl dimer hydrogenated rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / ; hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate; and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from glyceryl rosinate.

16. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the total content of diterpenic compounds in the resin is at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, by weight of diterpenic compound(s) on the total weight of the natural resin.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one resin contains at least one triterpenic compound; preferably selected from: alpha-amyrin, beta-amyrin, alpha-amyrone, beta-amyrone, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolic aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonic aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof; and preferably the resin is selected from frankincense resins, such as protium heptaphyllum, shorea robusta.

18. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the total triterpene content of the resin is at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight of triterpene compound(s) on the total weight of the natural resin.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, in particular from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular from 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even better less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, in particular from 250 to 1,000 g / mol.

20. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin(s) have a glass transition temperature, preferably in the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably of 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a softening point, preferably within the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 90°C.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin(s) is / are present in said composition in a content in the range of 0.1% to 40%, preferably 0.5% to 35%, preferably 1% to 30%, preferably 2% to 25%, preferably 3% to 22%, and more preferably 5% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric, non-ionic, preferably non-ionic, modified by the presence of at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon chain, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), 1) as defined below and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below: i) (C5-C28)alkyl, linear or branched, ii) (C5-C28)alkenyl, linear or branched, iii) (C5-C28)alkynyl, linear or branched, preferably the hydrocarbon group is linear;a) halogens such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, 1) RX with R representing a group selected from a) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, 2) heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, y) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, 3) cosmetic active, m) thiosulfate and X representing a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, or (thio)carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide; Ra representing a hydrogen atom, or an (Cl-C4)alkyl group;

24.

25. or aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a (Cl-C4)alkyl or (Cl-C4)alkoxy group, particularly a single substituent; and / or a') heteroatoms such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, (thio)carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide with r being 1 or 2, Ra being as defined above, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc being as defined above; particularly modified polysaccharides derived from: i) gum arabic; ii) ghatti gum; iii) karaya gum; iv) tragacanth gum; v) agar; vi) alginates; vii) carrageenans and furcelleranes; viii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum;xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin, preferably chosen from xvi), xvii) and xviii), more preferably xvi).; Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the modified polysaccharide(s) are polysaccharide ethers called alkylpolysaccharides having an alkyl radical comprising between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably derived from cellulose, guar, or a mixture thereof; preferably the modified polysaccharides are alkylcelluloses having a linear or branched alkyl residue comprising between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms; preferably selected from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, preferably the alkylcellulose being ethylcellulose.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the modified polysaccharide(s) is / are present in the composition in an amount of between 0.05% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight and / or the weight ratio between the total amount of resin(s) and the total amount of the modified polysaccharide(s) present in the composition is from 0.05 to 200, more preferably from 0.1 to 100. more preferably from 0.2 to 50, or even better from 0.5 to 20, preferably from 0.5 to 10.

26. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase of composition conforming to any one of claims 1 to 25, said oily phase being a continuous oily phase.

27. ​​Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oily composition, in particular anhydrous, preferably an anhydrous dispersion, preferably an anhydrous solution; or a water-in-oil emulsion, or a composition with several separated phases such as a two-phase.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further presents an aqueous phase with a total weight content in the range of 2 to 95% by weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

29. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total oil phase content is in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil or volatile oils are preferably present in a content in the range of 1 to 90% by weight, preferably 2 to 70%, preferably 3 to 50%, preferably 5 to 45% by weight, preferably 8 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably 10 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

31. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pigment; preferably selected from organic pigments and / or titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate; preferably the composition including a pigment chosen from organic pigments and / or titanium dioxides.

32. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least 2% by weight of pigment(s), preferably at least 5% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 10 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a foundation, lipstick, mascara, eyeliner, concealer or corrector, eyebrow product, skin care product, sunscreen, hygiene product, hair styling product, or hair coloring product, or nail polish.

34. A method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, such as skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to keratinous materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 33.

35. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 33, to improve the hold and / or resistance to friction without increasing the stickiness effect, of a film obtained by applying said composition to keratin materials.