AN EXTRACT OF MERISTEMATIC CELLS FROM OTANTHUS MARITIMUS AND ITS USES, PARTICULARLY IN COSMETICS

Abstract

The present invention relates to an extract of meristematic cells of Otanthus maritimus, and to its non-therapeutic cosmetic use. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the Otanthus maritimus extract, to a method of preparation, and to a device comprising the Otanthus maritimus extract.

Description

Description Title of the invention: A MERIST CELL EXTRACT MATERIALS OF AUTTHUS MARITIMUS AND ITS USES POLISHING, ESPECIALLY COSMETICS technical field

[0001] = The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a cell extract meristematics of Otanthus maritimus, as well as a cosmetic or der- composition matological including the extract, and to a process and device involving this composition.

[0002] — The present invention finds applications particularly in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly cutaneous cosmetics.

[0003] — In the description below, references in brackets ([ ]) refer to the list references are presented at the end of the text. State of the art

[0004] — The skin is a vital organ in its own right, composed of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles thanks to different cell types and different structures.

[0005] = The outermost and therefore most exposed tissue is the epidermis. This epithelium plu- restratified (Malpighian) and keratinized, it consists of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protective functions. The majority of cells are the ke- ratinocytes that divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation down to the stratum corneum (outermost layer) and are then eliminated by desquamation. in 21 to 28 days, on average. The major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and Therefore, the human body has a first line of protection against external aggressions. external factors, such as physical, chemical, water and bacteriological aggressions. This protection is notably ensured by the most differentiated layers and the stratum corneum known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact appearance and Waterproof. Good differentiation, and therefore good desquamation, are essential. for a smooth, homogeneous, and regular surface. All of these mechanisms depend directly from the proliferative capacities of keratinocytes. However, external stresses and Age slows down this process, which can then become longer and more irregular. Scaling becoming irregular and / or chaotic, smoothing defects and surface homogeneity of the skin is established.

[0006] In an intermediate position, the dermis is a connective tissue primarily composed of fibroblasts and matrix proteins give the skin its compressive qualities known stability and elasticity. Changes in its texture and composition are largely responsible for the skin alterations that occur during aging. The surface of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly determined by the quality and density of the underlying dermis. More so than the epidermis, whose renewal is rapid and constant, the dermis undergoes significant age-related changes due to the aging of its cells and structure. As we age, fibroblasts become less reactive and less proliferative. With age, the synthesis of matrix macromolecules is no longer carried out by fibroblasts. Furthermore, these constituent macromolecules of the dermis, such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans (including hyaluronic acid), tend to degenerate and fragment.Their networks become disorganized and reorient themselves in parallel with the dermo-epidermal junction, notably under the action of matrix protein degradation enzymes, MMPs (Matrix Metallo Proteases), also called collagenases or elastases. These phenomena of dermal tissue alteration cause a defect in the organization of the epidermis on the surface and, more visibly and directly, a loss of firmness that can lead to skin ptosis and / or the formation of wrinkles. Within the connective tissue framework, other cells and structures are also interspersed, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, consisting of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as epidermal appendages: hair, fur, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis. The hypodermis, located deep within and consisting mainly of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection, and also plays a role in storing energy reserves that can be rapidly mobilized for all biological needs, such as cell renewal, defense of the body, or muscle contraction. The cosmetics market, particularly the anti-aging market, is very large and consumer expectations are very high. Across all product ranges, consumer expectations are increasingly shifting towards natural, effective, and eco-designed products. Many plant-derived active ingredients are used in cosmetics and dermatology, some of which have demonstrated good efficacy. However, a large number of these active ingredients come from imported plants, some of which are even endangered. Therefore, it is increasingly necessary to develop active ingredients that do not threaten natural resources and that contribute to sustainable development. There remains a real need to find new active ingredients that are effective in cosmetics and dermatology, and compatible with sustainable development. Description of the invention The present invention is specifically designed to address these needs and drawbacks of the prior art. The inventors are the very first to use an extract of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells, precisely enabling them to effectively meet the aforementioned needs. Otanthus maritimus is indeed a local plant, which the inventors cultivated to obtain an active ingredient compatible with sustainable development. Surprisingly, the inventors discovered cosmetic effects, including anti-aging, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties, of the extract of the invention. In particular, the inventors obtained results on epidermal cell renewal, barrier function, including keratinocyte differentiation, and the inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators. Thus, a first object of the invention relates to an extract of meristematic cells of Oranthus maritimus. Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the Otanthus maritimus extract of the invention. Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of Otanthus maritimus of the invention. Another object of the invention relates to a device in a form chosen from a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention. Another object of the invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention, comprising mixing an extract of Otanthus maritimus of the invention, and a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle. Otanthus maritimus, also called Achillea maritima, is a plant in the Asteraceae family. It is a perennial plant, 10 to 30 cm tall, with an aromatic scent. The stem, prostrate at the base then ascending, bears numerous small, sessile, oblong, crenate leaves with a rounded apex, somewhat fleshy. The leaves exhibit morpho-anatomical adaptations to the ecological conditions of maritime dune systems: cottony leaves forming a kind of sheath all around the stem, which delimits a very tight space maintaining a humid micro-atmosphere for protection against desiccation and heat, but which also serves as a passive defense against herbivores; an amphistomatic distribution (stomata on both leaf surfaces) which could be an adaptation to sand encroachment; and hydathodes that excrete excess mineral salts. and a mesophyll consisting of water-bearing parenchyma with cells containing a vacuole rich in mucilage, substances that absorb water. For the purposes of this invention, "meristematic cell extract" means a fraction of Otanthus maritimus comprising or consisting of at least one element selected from cell walls of said meristematic cells, cell contents of said meristematic cells, and whole meristematic cells. Advantageously, the extract may further contain metabolites of interest; these may include, for example, phenolic compounds such as caffeoylquinic acids like chlorogenic, 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid, polar compounds such as aspartic acid and simple sugars such as glucose or fructose, or lipophilic compounds such as sterols and terpenes. The extract may be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art for isolating cells or cell fractions. This could be, for example, a lysis of a cell culture of whole meristematic cells of Otanthus maritimus. Meristematic cells of Otanthus maritimus can be obtained from in vitro culture of Otanthus maritimus cells. In vitro plant cell culture technologies began in 1939 with the demonstration of obtaining calluses, which are clusters of undifferentiated cells also called meristematic cells. Their industrial-scale production dates back to the 1990s (Trevor A. Thorpe. History of plant tissue culture. Molecular biotechnology, 2007, 37, 2, 169-180 ([1])). The principle consists of dedifferentiating the constituent cells of a plant sample, starting with a plant sample, and then inducing cell division of these meristematic cells. The goal is to increase biomass so that the cells can be recovered whole, or fragmented with a high concentration of metabolites of interest.This principle can be applied to the preparation of Ortanthus maritimus extract comprising Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells. For example, Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells can be obtained, cultured and preserved according to the methods described in the document Plant cell culture technology in the cosmetics and food industries: current state and future trends, Regine Eibl & Philipp Meier & Irène Stutz & David Schildberger & Tilo Hühn & Dieter Eibl, Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology (2018) 102:8661-8675 ([2]). For example, whole meristematic cells from Oranthus maritimus can be treated as follows to obtain a meristematic cell extract: a) induction of explants and callogenesis, b) stabilization in a solid medium, the solid medium being any suitable medium known to a person skilled in the art, c) stabilization of growth in liquid medium, the liquid medium being any suitable medium known to a person skilled in the art, d) elicitation, filtration then lysis, e) homogenization, f) drying, g) suspension of the lysate powder in glycerin, the suspension comprising for example 2 to 5% of dry matter. Advantageously, the extract obtained in step g) contains all or some of the metabolites of interest. Advantageously, the extract can be quantified for total polyphenols expressed as cynarin equivalent (dicaffeoylquinic acid). The "metabolites of interest," as defined in the present invention, may be any compound or molecule produced by a plant or a part of a plant, including isolated plant cells such as meristematic cells. These may be primary metabolites, for example, sugars, proteins / amino acids, and / or lipids. Alternatively or complementarily, they may be secondary metabolites, such as polyphenols, terpenes, and / or alkaloids. According to the invention, the extract of Oranthus maritimus can be in any suitable form, particularly for cosmetic use or in dermatological formulations. For example, the meristematic cells of Oranthus maritimus can be whole or lysed, suspended in liquid form, or dried. In liquid form, the solvent used can be selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1,3-diol, glycerin, or a mixture of these solvents, this list not being exhaustive. Mixtures of these solvents can be made in any proportions that preserve the technical effects mentioned below. In dry form, the cell preparation can be obtained by vacuum evaporation, spray drying, freeze-drying, or any other suitable method known to those skilled in the art.Advantageously, the extract of the invention can be in a dry form, obtained after lysis, drying and grinding, then suspended in glycerin. In the context of the use of the Oranthus maritimus extract according to the invention, "use" refers to non-therapeutic use, for example, for the treatment of normal skin, that is, skin not exhibiting a pathological condition, excluding any therapeutic use. In other words, it is a purely aesthetic action aimed at improving the appearance of the skin. "Improving the appearance of the skin," as used in the present invention, means any effect that provides an advantage in the appearance of the skin compared to the appearance of the skin before using the extract according to the invention. Advantageously, the cosmetic use according to the invention is at least one action chosen from an anti-aging action, a moisturizing action, a soothing action and an antioxidant action on the skin and / or mucous membranes. For the purposes of this invention, "mucous membrane" includes, in particular, external mucous membranes such as the lips. For the purposes of this invention, "anti-aging action" means an action that prevents, delays, and / or limits the signs of skin aging, particularly accelerated (exogenous) aging caused by environmental stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation (photo-induced stress), or chronological aging (endogenous stress). This anti-aging action may involve at least one action selected from among the following: stimulation of epidermal cell renewal, stimulation of the skin barrier function, particularly keratinocyte differentiation, and stimulation of fibroblast cell cycle factors.The anti-aging effect may be at least one effect selected from among the following: skin regeneration, notably through the protection of epidermal stem cells; prevention or reduction of skin laxity; reduction of skin cell senescence, particularly dermal and / or epidermal cells; reduction of skin firmness loss; reduction of skin elasticity loss; a firming action; improvement of the biomechanical qualities of the skin or mucous membranes; and reduction or prevention of the formation of wrinkles and / or fine lines, including a reduction in the depth of wrinkles and / or fine lines on the skin or mucous membranes. Advantageously, the anti-aging action involves stimulating the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes, thus promoting epidermal renewal. For the purposes of this invention, "skin regeneration" means the metabolic stimulation of epidermal or dermal skin cells, the renewal of which is directly or indirectly linked to or targeted by intrinsic or extrinsic aging. For the purposes of this invention, "reduction of sagging / loss of firmness / loss of elasticity" refers to an action that inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade collagen and / or elastin in the skin, its appendages, and / or mucous membranes. This action may involve the protection, maintenance, and / or strengthening of existing fibers (collagen and / or elastin) in the dermis produced by dermal cells. Advantageously, this action can protect, maintain, and / or improve the biomechanical qualities of the dermis, including firmness, volume, density, and tissue strength. For the purposes of this invention, "hydrating action" means any action that restores, maintains, or enhances the hydration of the skin or mucous membranes. Without being bound by a biological mechanism, the hydrating effect may be due to the improvement of the skin's barrier function caused by the extract of the invention, which could allow for better water retention by the skin. Advantageously, this hydrating action could result in softer skin. that is to say, obtaining a silkier effect on the skin to the touch after using the extract, and / or a reduction in the effect of roughness of the skin to the touch. For the purposes of this invention, "soothing action" means at least one action selected from among the following: reducing diffuse redness, improving complexion, restoring complexion, restoring skin texture, restoring skin radiance, restoring a more uniform skin luminosity, and reducing sensations of tightness, discomfort, tingling, diffuse heat, and skin irritability. Soothing action, for the purposes of this invention, may also include an anti-inflammatory action against the unpleasant sensations experienced by individuals with non-pathological sensitive / reactive skin.These unpleasant skin sensations can be caused by environmental stressors such as heat, cold, wind, sun, hard water, UV exposure, or even sudden temperature changes and air pollution, which can lead to sensations of tingling, burning, redness, or skin irritation that are not pathological but are unsightly. While not necessarily linked to a biological mechanism, this reaction can be explained by a decrease or inhibition of the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators induced following stress of any kind, which is the source of the unpleasant sensations experienced by individuals. Examples include the expression of interleukin 6 (IL-6), interleukin 8 (IL-8), or Tumor Necrosis Factor alpha (TNF-α) produced by epidermal keratinocytes. For the purposes of this invention, "antioxidant action" means any reduction, prevention, or slowing of the production of free radicals and / or oxidizing agents, and / or the oxidation of skin cells. Without being bound by any particular mechanism, the extract of the invention may increase, in whole or in part, the expression of cellular detoxification enzymes or proteins, or have an inhibitory effect on the production of reactive oxygen species induced by oxidative stress. For the purposes of this invention, a "cosmetic composition" means any composition intended for cosmetic, or aesthetic, use, and which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, such as the epidermis, lips, and hair. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition allows, exclusively or primarily, for the protection, perfuming, maintenance, modification of their appearance, or correction of their surface defects. In this document, "dermatological composition" means any composition intended for dermatological use, that is, a composition that can be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body for the treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, and skin appendages, such as nails, hair, or body hair. composition may include additional active ingredients other than Oranthus maritimus meristematic cell extract, which may be described as dermatological or therapeutic, hence the "dermatological" quality of the composition. By "cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle" is meant a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human and animal skin cells, in particular epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may be chosen from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol, this list is not exhaustive. The composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for manufacturing a cosmetic composition. This could be, for example, a simple mixture. Alternatively, it could be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example, a rotor-stator type turbine. It could also be, for example, a process using Temperature Inversion Phase (TIP), this process being classically used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions with particularly fine dispersed droplets, for example, with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 µm. According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may comprise 0.00001 to 5.0% by weight of said Oranthus maritimus meristematic cell extract relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, or 0.3 to 5.0%, or 0.3 to 3.0%, or 0.4 to 5.0%, or 0.4 to 3.0%, or 0.5 to 5.0%, or 0.5 to 3.0%, or 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, or 2.0 to 4.0% by weight of said Oranthus maritimus meristematic cell extract maritimus in relation to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention may be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application. Advantageously, the composition may be a topical composition. This could be, for example, a composition in a form chosen from the group comprising an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a mixture of these emulsions. According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in a form selected from the group comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream, and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion. These formulations are usable for implementing the present invention. are known in the prior art by formulators. In these composition examples, it is sufficient to add the Oranthus maritimus meristematic cell extract of the present invention to obtain a composition according to the present invention. According to the invention, the composition can be in a form selected from an ointment, cream, oil, milk, pomade, powder, soaked pad, solution, gel, serum, balm, butter, lotion, suspension, soap or emulsion. The extract of the present invention can be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with other substances or ingredients that are cosmetically or dermatologically active or inactive. Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. These include elements of the composition that, in particular, accompany the extract, constitute a specific formulation, or preserve the active extract over time; this list is not exhaustive. In other words, they can be any basic product found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In contrast, active substances or ingredients are those that, in the intended cosmetic or dermatological application, have an aesthetic and / or medical action. Thus, the Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract of the present invention can be the sole active substance or ingredient in a composition, or it can be combined with other active substances or ingredients in a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Other advantages may become apparent to the person skilled in the art by reading the examples below, given for illustrative purposes. EXAMPLES OR METHODS OF IMPLEMENTATION Example 1: Preparation of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract In the following examples, a glycerinated suspension of whole Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells was prepared as follows: induction of explants and callus formation, stabilization in solid medium (Gamborg B5, sucrose, growth hormones, Agar Agar), stabilization of growth in liquid medium (Gamborg B5, sucrose and growth hormones), elicitation, filtration then lysis, homogenization, drying, suspension of the lysate powder in glycerin, the suspension comprising by example of 2 to 5% dry matter. Example 2: Effect of an extract of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells obtained in Example 1 on keratinocyte differentiation Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were incubated for 5 days in the presence of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract. At the end of this incubation period, total RNA was extracted and keratin 10 gene expression was assessed by quantitative real-time RT-PCR. Othantus extract at 106% and 107% causes overexpression of the gene encoding the K10 protein (keratin 10), representative of an induction of keratinocyte differentiation. Keratin 10 gene expression level in normal human keratinocytes cultured in the presence of Otanthus extract [Table 1] Keratin 10 (Expression | relative) Control 1 Otanthus 106% 3.15 Otanthus 107% 2.1 Example 3: Effect of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract on the inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were treated or untreated (control) for 48 hours with a powdered extract of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells solubilized in ethanol before dilution in culture medium. Twenty-four hours after the start of treatment, the cells were irradiated with UV radiation at 593 kJ / m² to induce inflammation. Cell viability after irradiation and treatment was determined by mitochondrial activity (MTT hydrolysis measurement). The pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α were measured in the cell culture supernatants and quantified by ELISA. The values ​​obtained were then correlated with cell viability. The results show an inhibition of the production of inflammatory mediators by the Otanthus extract, up to -48% of IL6 for 106% extract and -55% of TNFa for 107% extract. The extract therefore has an anti-inflammatory effect. [Table 2] Expression of IL6 and TNFα by UV-stimulated keratinocytes CONCENTRATION (pg / ml) | Inhibition (%) IL6 TNFa 6 1 |74% |42% Untreated control 112.60 UV + Anti-inflammatory reference [29.19 PF-3644022] UV + Otanthus 10$% |58.21 9.17 48% 38% UV + Otanthus 107% |32.22 6.63 71% 55% Example 4: Effect of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract on epidermal cell renewal The effect of an ethanol-solubilized powdered extract of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells, before dilution in culture medium, on epidermal cell turnover was evaluated by studying the proliferation of a keratinocyte culture. For this purpose, normal human epidermal keratinocytes were incubated in the presence of the Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract or a positive control (PE+EGF) for 72 or 144 hours. Cell proliferation was assessed by measuring a nuclear marker. According to the results obtained, after 3 days (72 hours) of treatment, the Otanthus maritimus extract tested at 107% and 108% (w / v) stimulated keratinocyte proliferation by +32% and +26%, respectively. After 6 days (144 hours) of treatment, it stimulated this process at all three tested concentrations: +28% at 106%, +56% at 107%, and +49% at 10-39%. [Table 3] Proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes (% compared to control) |Control | + |Oranthus | middle [104% [107% |10-% [72h 100 136 [126 [132 [100 144h 100 149 156 128 PE+ [104% EGF 136 |i26 [130 [149 Otanthus maritimus extract significantly stimulates keratinocyte proliferation (up to +56% after 6 days of treatment at a concentration of 107%). Example 5: Effect of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract on the expression of dermal matrix markers Normal human dermal fibroblasts were incubated for 48 hours in the presence of an ethanol-solubilized powdered extract before dilution in culture medium, of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells, or of TGFP (reference positive). At the end of this incubation period, total RNAs were extracted and gene expression of different dermal matrix markers was assessed by quantitative real-time RT-PCR. A significant stimulation (fold change >2) of the expression of the genes COLIAI, COL3A1, EGFR, ERBB4, FN1, IGF1R, IGF2, MMP14, MMP2, MMp7, MMp9, MSN, SERPINE1, SERPINE2, TIMP2, and TIMP3 was induced by the Otanthus extract at concentrations of 10⁻⁶% and 10⁷%. The extract therefore induces remodeling of the dermal matrix, suggesting an effect on dermal density and its mechanical properties. Example 6: Effect of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract obtained in Example 1 on the migration of normal human fibroblasts A "wound" was created on a cell bed of normal human dermal fibroblasts using the WoundMaker™ system. The cells were then incubated in the presence of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract, and cell migration within the wound was monitored by image analysis for 72 hours. In this study, the measured parameter is called Relative Wound Density (RWD). It assesses the cell density inside the wound compared to the cell density outside the wound at any given time. This measurement is designed to be 0% at t=0 and 100% when the cell density inside the wound is the same as the initial cell density outside the wound. Under these experimental conditions, the Otanthus extract tested at 10% stimulates the fibroblast migration process over the entire kinetic period, namely 72 hours (+15% in the first 24 hours, and +12% over the following 2 days). [Table 4] Table representing the results expressed as a percentage of migration induction compared to the untreated control (100%) Otanthus 10-6% 24h 48h 72h 115% 113% 112% Example 7: Effect of an extract of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells on the inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators in a chemical stress model (PMA) For the following tests, the extract of Otanthus maritimus was tested either suspended in glycerin, as described in Example 1 (Otanthus-GIly), or in powder form (Otanthus-Powder), corresponding to the lysate obtained in Example 1 before suspension in glycerin. Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were pre-incubated or not (control) in the presence of Othantus maritimus extract or the anti-inflammatory reference molecule (0.1 M dexamethasone). After 24 hours of incubation, the cells were stressed by the addition of 0.1ug / ml of PMA (Phorbol-Myristate-Acetate) and incubated overnight to induce an inflammatory process. The pro-inflammatory cytokines TNFα and IL-8 were measured in cell culture supernatants and quantified by ELISA. In parallel, cell viability was measured for each condition. The technique utilizes the reducing power of viable cells to convert resazurin to fluorescent resorufin (PrestoBlue™ Assay). The values ​​obtained for TNFα and IL-8 were then correlated with viability. A Student's t-test was performed to verify the significance of the results compared to the PMA control (NS Not Significant; *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001). The results presented below show an inhibitory effect of Otanthus maritimus extract on the expression of inflammatory cytokines. Table 5 shows the production of TNF-alpha and IL8 in keratinocytes subjected to chemical inflammatory stress induced by PMA — Protective effect of Otanthus-Gly and Otanthus-Powder. [Tables 5] 1 |% inhibition par rapport | au stress PMA [PMA + Otanthus-Gly 0.2% | |70.3+#- |-48% *** |4036.7 + / - [-25% vo 4.39 442.9 PMA - Otanthus-Gly 0.5% [48.2 + / -2.64 |-64% *** [29633 + / - |-45% ox [57% of |4572.4 + / - |-15% of vx [Tableaux5] TNFa IL8 Production |% inhibition |Production |' TNFa parrapport |IL8 F [pg / mL] au stress [pg / mL] 2 PMA ! Control (non-trait) 8,0 + / - 0,73 | 44,6 +- 4,16 Contrôle positiv PMA 0,1 jg / |135,8 + / - 5359,1 + / - mL 42,15 537,0 |PMA + Dexa 107 M @174k |-650 + |a4sa5al |- 7,35 520,8 |PMA + Otanthus-Gly 0,1% [96,9 +- [29% NS |46128 + / - | 15,36 463,3 |PMA + Otanthus-Gly 0,2% | |703+- |-48%** |4036,7 + / - | 4,39 442,9 PMA - Otanthus-Gly 0,5% 48,2 + / -2,64 |-649 *** 12963,3 +- | 340,6 PMA + Otanthus-Poudre 154,2+ / - |NS 5338,7 + / - | 0,003% 17,22 158,2 PMA + Otanthus-Poudre 92,7+ / - |-32% NS |47290 + / - | 0,006% 13,58 381,4 PMA + Otanthus-Poudre 584 + / - |-57% x |45724 + / - | 0,015% 9,99 351,2 PMA + Otanthus-Powder 154.2+ / - |NS 5338.7 #- |NS 0.003% 17.22 158.2 PMA + Otanthus-Powder 92.7 #- [2% NS 147290 + / - [12% ] 0.006% 13.58 381.4 PMA + Otanthus-Powder 58.4 +- |-57% #*** [45724 #H- |-15% ' 0.015% 9.99 351.2 Example 8: Effect of an extract of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells on the inhibition of oxidative stress For the following tests, the extract of Otanthus maritimus was tested either suspended in glycerin, as described in Example 1 (Otanthus-Gly), or in powder form (Otanthus-Powder), corresponding to the lysate obtained in Example | before suspension in glycerin. Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were pre-incubated for 1 hour in the presence of the DCFH-DA probe (2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate). After rinsing, the cells were treated for 45 minutes with Otanthus maritimus extract or reference antioxidant molecules (20 µM quercetin, 500 µM vitamin C) in the presence of 200 µM hydrogen peroxide (H₂O). The production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) was evaluated by fluorescence measurement, proportional to the degradation of the DCFH-DA probe upon contact with ROS. A Student's t-test was performed to verify the significance of the results compared to the stress control H202 (*p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001). The results below show that the production of reactive oxygen species is lower in the presence of Otanthus maritimus extracts, in glycerinated form, as well as in powder form, demonstrating the protective antioxidant, and therefore detoxifying, effect of the extract on human epidermal keratinocytes. Table 6 below shows the expression of ROS in keratinocytes subjected to H,0 stress — Protective effect of Otanthus-Gly. [Tables 6] [ROS Production (%) % of inhibition relative to stress H,0, Untreated control 17 +#- 1.4 |H,O; 200 / M 100 + / - 0.0 Quercetin 20uM + H.0; 11+#-05 | Vitamin C 500uM + H.0: 13+# / -2.1 Oranthus-Gly 0.005% + H.02 _ |72+ / -87 Otanthus-Gly 001% + H:02 | |55+ / -6.1 Otanthus-Gly 0.05% + H.02 33 + / - 3.7 Otanthus-Gly 0.1% + H.0; 24 + / -4.2 Otanthus-Gly 0.2% + H.0; 20 + / - 3.1 Otanthus-Gly 0.5% + HO: 17-23 Expression of ROS in keratinocytes subjected to Hz0 stress; — Protective effect of Otanthus-Powder. [Tables 7] [ROS Production (%) % of inhibition relative to stress H,0; -B796 ## -899 Ho -35% #* -36% ** + [3144 3.7 [699 #6 Untreated control 19+#-1.7 H,0; 2004M 100 + / - 0.0 Quercetin 20 / M + H,0, 13 +- 1.4 -879 *** Vitamin C SOOUM + H,0; |11 + 1.2 -899 ++ Otanthus-Powder 0.00015% |65 +- 5.8 -35% ** +H.0, Otanthus-Powder 0.0003% + |64 + 68° 36% ++ HO: Otanthus-Powder 0.0015% + |42 + / - 4.7 -589 *#** HO, Otanthus-Powder 0.003% + |s1 > -699 + H.0, Otanthus-Powder 0.006% + [22 + / - 3.4 [7806 #4 HO: Otanthus-Powder 0.015% + |15 + 46 [8596 #04 HO; Example 9: Formulation of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract in a serum-type treatment [Tables 8] |Components Water, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Coconut Oil, Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearyl Alcohol (Octadecanol) [meristematic cells of Otanthus maritimus Perfume, Xanthan gum, Sorbic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol acetate Example 10: Formulation of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract in a day cream [Tables 9] |Components Water, Glycerin, Coconut Oil, Myristyle Myristate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells, perfume, xanthan gum, sorbic acid, tocopherol acetate, sodium hydroxide Example 11: Formulation of Otanthus maritimus meristematic cell extract in a night cream [Tables 10] |Components Glycerin, Coconut Oil, Sorbitan Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Otanthus maritimus meristematic cells, perfume, xanthan gum, sorbic acid, tocopherol acetate, sodium hydroxide REFERENCES Trevor A. Thorpe. History of plant tissue culture. Molecular biotechnology, 2007, 37, 2, 169-180. Plant cell culture technology in the cosmetics and food industries: current state and future trends, Regine Eibl & Philipp Meier & Irène Stutz & David Schildberger & Tilo Hühn & Dieter Eibl, Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology (2018) 102:8661-8675.

Claims

Claims

1. Extract of meristematic cells of Otanthus maritimus, capable to be obtained by lysis of a cell culture of meristem cells- whole plants of Otanthus maritimus.

2. An extract according to claim 1, said extract comprising cell walls- lular of said cells and / or of the cellular contents of said cells and / or whole meristematic cells.

3. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an Oranthus extract maritimus as defined in any one of claims 1 to 2.

4. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 3, for an anti-aging, moisturizing, soothing or anti-oxidant action on the skin and / or mucous membranes.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an extract of Otanthus maritimus as defined in any of the claims- indications 1 to 2.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 5, comprising 0.00001 to 5% by weight of said Otanthus maritimus extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 5 or 6, said composition being in a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a tampon soaked, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm, a butter, a lotion, a suspension, a soap or an emulsion.

8. Device in a form chosen from a pot, a bottle- pump, wipe, mask, transdermal device, patch, a spray, said device comprising a cosmetic composition or dermatological as defined in any of the claims indications 5 to 7.

9. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic or derma- tological as defined in any one of claims 5 to 10. '7, comprising the mixture of an extract of Otanthus maritimus such as defined in any one of claims | to 2, and a vehicle cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable.