SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a silicone-polyurethane polymer, one or more pigments, advantageously lipophilic treated, and zinc oxide.

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skin and / or lip care and / or makeup products intended to beautify and / or color the skin and / or lips are widely available. These products are known in liquid, semi-fluid, or solid form. In particular, anhydrous skin and / or lip care and / or makeup products are sought after by consumers for their coverage and long-lasting properties.

[0003] For performance in terms of hold (non-transfer), coverage, and application comfort, film-forming polymers, volatile oils, oil-phase gelling or structuring agents, and white pigments and / or fillers are generally used. Titanium dioxide is particularly used for its strong opacifying and covering power. However, the use of colored pigments in skincare or makeup compositions, in combination with other ingredients, and especially film-forming polymers, can lead to color inhomogeneities in the compositions, such as color flow or mottling.

[0004] The Applicant observed, in particular, that compositions comprising a silicone-polyurethane polymer in combination with titanium dioxide and colored pigments could exhibit color inhomogeneities such as color flow and / or mottling, especially in anhydrous compositions in stick or liquid form. Unexpectedly, the Applicant demonstrated that the use of zinc oxide as a replacement for titanium dioxide, particularly in an anhydrous composition comprising a silicone-polyurethane polymer and pigments, improved the homogeneity of said compositions. The use of zinc oxide thus advantageously makes it possible to obtain stable shades, without color flow and / or mottling, which was not possible with titanium dioxide, in the formulation of skincare and / or makeup compositions. Description of the invention

[0005] A first aspect of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0006] (i) a silicone-polyurethane polymer,

[0007] (ii) one or more pigments, advantageously lipophilic, and

[0008] (iii) of zinc oxide.

[0009] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0011] (i) a silicone-polyurethane polymer,

[0012] (ii) one or more pigments, advantageously lipophilic, and

[0013] (iii) of zinc oxide.

[0014] By "anhydrous composition," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0015] The term "keratinous materials" refers in particular to facial skin, eyelids, eyebrows, and lips. According to a specific method, the composition of the invention is applied to the eyelids, eyebrows, or lips. Preferably, it is applied to the lips.

[0016] According to one embodiment, the composition is fluid or liquid, that is to say that it flows under its own weight at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

[0017] According to another embodiment, the composition is a solid composition. Preferably the solid composition comprises one or more waxes.

[0018] By "solid composition", as opposed to liquid or fluid composition, according to the invention means a composition which does not flow under its own weight at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

[0019] The solid composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup. Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0020] The composition of the invention comprises a silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0021] By "silicone-polyurethane polymer" according to the invention, we mean any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and urethane bonds.

[0022] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a silicone-polyurethane polymer with the INCI name: BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER. Silmer® UR-5050 from Siltech Corporation is a notable example.

[0023] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0024] Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups corresponds to the formula formula (I)

[0025] [Chem.l] n

[0026] wherein R is chosen independently at each occurrence from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group; preferably, R is chosen from linear, cyclic or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl groups, optionally substituted, including, without limitation, C1-C8 methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl or aryl groups, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl, including, without limitation, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl,

[0027] wherein each of the above R groups can be optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus and a halogen, in particular fluorine, as illustrated by fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di- and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-C6 substituted amino alkyl groups, including those corresponding to the formula -(CH2)l-6-NRN2 and -(CH2)l-6-NRN-(CH2)l-6-NRN2 where RN is typically hydrogen, but can also be a methyl, ethyl, propyl, and analogous group; polyether groups, including, without limitation, polyethylene oxide groups of the formula -(CH2CH2O)n-, propylene oxide groups of the formula -(CH(CH3)CH2O)n- and combinations thereof; and amine oxide, 15-phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate functions, or analogs; or

[0028] in which R may include an additional group -L-OH;

[0029] in which L represents either a bond or a bonding group; preferably L is a bonding group selected from divalent hydrocarbons having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as for example an alkyl group in Cl-CIO, including, without limitation, divalent groups of formula -(CH2)l-10-, preferably -(CH2)1-6-, and more preferably, L is -CH2CH2CH2-;

[0030] and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0031] Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a methyl group; more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or almost all occurrences, meaning that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of occurrences, in particular in more than 95% of occurrences, or even in more than 98% of occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorgano-siloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethyl-siloxane having, for example, the structure of formula la:

[0032] [Chem.2] HO--L CH; CH; Si--O—~ -- CH; L CH3

[0033] in which L and n are such as defined previously.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane func Functionalized by hydroxyl groups, it includes a polymethylsiloxane corresponding, for example, to the structure of formula Ib:

[0035] [Chem.3] ÇHj OH -CH2-CH2-CHs-Si—O CTS; -CH,' CHj-Œj-OH

[0036] where n is as defined above.

[0037] The diisocyanate may in particular conform to the formula O=C=N-R1-N=C=O, where RI is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including 20 optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular RI may be selected from a linear, cyclic, or branched alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl, or arylalkyl group, optionally substituted, including, without

[0038]

[0039]

[0040]

[0041] limitation: i. a formula group: [Chem. 4] -fcHï-)- MO ii. a formula group: [Chem. 5]

[0042]

[0043] iii. a formula group: [Chem. 6]

[0044]

[0045] iv. a group of formulas: [Chem. 7]

[0046]

[0047] v. a group of formulas: [Chem. 8]

[0048]

[0049] and combinations thereof. The diisocyanates suitable for the purposes of the invention include, but are not limited to, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl dii-isocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI, and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0051] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0052] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or essentially consists of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0053] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0054] Thus, according to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0055] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to formula structure (I)

[0056] [Chem.9] CHj [ CH3 1 0¾ III CH3 I CHj J CH; n

[0057] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0058] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention comprises recurring units derived from polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where unit A has the structure of formula II:

[0060] [Chem. 10] RR ] R 'I i S OL Si O-*- Si--O Si —L —' O 5 III I? R 1 R . R

[0061] in which R, L and n are defined as previously in relation to the formula I, la, Ib and le, and where unit B has the structure of formula III:

[0062] [Chem. 11] OO

[0063] where RI is as defined above, and in which units A and B are arranged according to a linear, branched or cyclic configuration, and preferably linear.

[0064] The polymer may also comprise branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane in which one or more R groups in formula I or II are a group IV such as:

[0065] [Chem. 12]

[0066] in which R is as defined for formula I, and R* may represent a -LO- group further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula III, which in turn may be further coupled to the unit A of formula II, and so on, or R* may represent -L-OH, an R group as defined above, or a terminal group.

[0067] When the polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they may be present as T or Q type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as shown above, and Q indicates that both R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0068] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called silicone-polyurethane polymer copolymer and T resin or Q resin, branched or grafted.

[0069] Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer can be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in formula V:

[0070] [Chem. 13]

[0071] in which R, RI and L are as defined above, and where x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and preferably 10 and 50.

[0072] The prepolymer can also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups bearing one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analog thereof.

[0073] The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to approximately 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia, Ib and Ib typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to approximately 15,000 Daltons.

[0074] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or essentially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0075] By "essentially free of", it is understood that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, di-cyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0077] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is for example available from Siltech Corporation in the form of a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 or UR 100100 (45% dry matter of polymer in isododecane).

[0078] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0079] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0080] According to a particular and preferred mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 25%, in particular from 6 to 20%, in particular from 8% to 15% by weight of active material (dry matter) relative to the total weight of the composition. Coloring agents

[0081] The composition of the invention further comprises coloring materials, and preference at least of the pigments as described below.

[0082] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0083] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are pigments, in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, pearlescent pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The term “pigments” refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials), pearlescent pigments or nacre (multilayer structures), and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Examples of "mineral pigments" include black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0087] Preferably, black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0088] Among the "organic pigments", one can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0089] Among the "pearlescent pigments" or "pearls," examples include white pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride; and colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples include the commercially available Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, and Syncristal® ranges of pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments may also have a base of silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, or borosilicate (e.g., calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate).

[0090] The pigments may or may not be treated.

[0091] According to a particular method, the pigments are treated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic surfactant to facilitate the dispersion of said pigments in the oily phase of the composition.

[0092] Examples include lipophilic agents selected from the group consisting of N-acylated amino acids or their salts, silicone agents, metallic soaps, lecithin and its derivatives, waxes, fatty esters, and phospholipids.

[0093] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises mineral pigments treated with a lipophilic surfactant, in particular iron oxides treated with N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0094] The composition of the invention may further include colorants, in addition to pigments of the aforementioned types.

[0095] By "colorants", one can mention in particular Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40. The fat-soluble colorants are for example Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, beta-carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.

[0096] According to a particular method, the total content of colouring materials (including pigments) in the composition shall range from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 40%, even more preferably from 2.5% to 20% by weight, even better from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Preferably, the total pigment content will generally range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 28% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 25%, even more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, even better from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Zinc oxide

[0098] The composition of the invention further comprises zinc oxide.

[0099] According to the invention, the zinc oxide used is in the form of particles.

[0100] Zinc oxide is in the form of a white powder and is insoluble in water.

[0101] Zinc oxide particles can be in a heterogeneous form, generally hexagonal and cubic in shape.

[0102] The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention are pigmentary zinc oxide particles, as opposed to zinc oxide nanoparticles used as a mineral sunscreen.

[0103] The average size of the zinc oxide particles used according to the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 50 pm (micrometers), in particular from 0.1 to 1 pm, or even from 0.1 to 1 pm.

[0104] The particle size can be measured using a laser diffraction distribution method with a Malvem Mastersizer-type device, in particular by measuring the value D

[50] , which represents the maximum size represented by 50% in particle volume.

[0105] We can cite in particular the commercial references RONACARE ZINC OXIDE of the company Merck, or the reference A120-ZnO-l 1S3 of the company Kobo, or the reference ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS of the company Keyser&Mackay / Grillo.

[0106] The zinc oxide used according to the invention may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oil phase.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the zinc oxide is not treated and has the INCI name: Zinc oxide.

[0108] According to another particular mode, zinc oxide is treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0109] According to a particular mode, the zinc oxide content in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 35% by weight, especially from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably still from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin, the total content of zinc oxide particles will generally range from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total zinc oxide particle content will generally range from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% (zinc oxide) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] For an anhydrous fluid lip composition, the total zinc oxide particle content will generally range from 0.1% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% (zinc oxide) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] For an anhydrous fluid composition for the skin, the total content of zinc oxide particles will generally range from 0.1% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% (of zinc oxide) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1%, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0115] According to an even more preferred mode, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide. Optional additional ingredients

[0116] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more additional ingredients selected from fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers distinct from silicone-polyurethane polymer, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Charges

[0118] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more charges.

[0119] The fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to give a mattifying and / or blurring effect.

[0120] For the purposes of the invention, "charges" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.Additional fillers, separate from zinc oxide particles, are chosen from among the following: micas, of natural or synthetic origin; talc; bismuth oxychloride; silica; boron nitride; kaolin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (e.g. nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders; cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as crosslinked or uncrosslinked corn, wheat, rice, and cotton starches; hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.

[0121] The fillers may or may not be surface treated, in particular by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent; such as those described previously for zinc oxide.

[0122] According to a particular mode, the charge is untreated on the surface.

[0123] According to another particular mode, the charge is treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent such as those described above.

[0124] According to a particular mode, the total content of charge(s) in the composition shall range in particular from 0.1 to 50%, in particular from 2 to 23% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one silica powder, preferably a silica powder treated on the surface by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent.

[0126] Preferably, the silica powder is treated with lauroyl lysine. The commercial reference AMILON® from IKEDA may be mentioned in particular.

[0127] According to a particular mode, the silica powder, in particular the hydrophobic treated silica powder, when present in the composition, is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Oily or greasy phase

[0129] The composition may include one or more oils and optionally also an ingredient selected from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fats and mixtures thereof.

[0130] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0131] The composition may include an oil phase comprising at least one oil selected from a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, and mixtures thereof, preferably a hydrocarbon oil. Optionally, the composition according to the invention may also include an ingredient selected from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] According to a particular method, the hydrocarbon oil is chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, fatty alcohols in C12-C26 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, higher fatty acids in C12-C22 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and their mixtures.

[0133] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes.

[0134] Examples of linear or C8-C19 branched alkanes include:

[0135] - C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemisqualane, and for example oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®:

[0136] - linear alkanes having respectively hydrocarbon chains in

[0137] - C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, commercially by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0138] - C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15,

[0139] - C9-C12, C12-C14, C16-C18 such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC, VEGELIGHT® 1618LC,

[0140] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respec tively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97,

[0141] - and their mixtures.

[0142] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes selected from the group consisting of branched alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemisqualane; linear C8-C19 alkanes such as nonane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-nonadecane and their mixtures, in particular isododecane and mixtures of linear C9 / C12, C11 / C13, C10 / C12, C10 / C14, or C15 / C19 alkanes.

[0143] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least isododecane as a C8-C19 branched alkane.

[0144] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least one linear C9-C12 alkane.

[0145] The oil content may range from 0.2 to 90%, preferably from 0.5% to 80%, better from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes in the composition of the invention shall be at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it shall range from 25 to 80% by weight, and especially from 35 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] Lipophilic gelling agents

[0148] By "lipophilic gelling agent" according to the invention, we mean a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of a composition.

[0149] The lipophilic gelling agent may advantageously be chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; esters of dextrin and fatty acids such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C8 C30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Tri-hydroxystearin).

[0150] The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites, and zeolites. Preferably, it can be selected from hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two Cl4-C2O alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0151] As a preferred fat-soluble gelling agent, one may mention in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the references BENTONE GEL of Elementis with INCI name Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate or Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

[0152] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

[0153] When the composition includes one or more gelling agent(s), the total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) may range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 2 to 4% by weight of gelling agent (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] Waxes

[0155] According to a particular mode, especially for solid anhydrous compositions, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0156] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0157] Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] According to a particular mode, when the composition comprises one or more wax(s), the total wax content(s) in the composition of the invention shall range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better from 0.5% to 25%, even better from 1% to 25%, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Pasty fat

[0160] According to a particular mode, especially for solid anhydrous compositions, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fats.

[0161] By "pasty fat" is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0162] According to the invention, the pasty fat can be selected from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a diacid or linear or branched C4-C50 carboxylic polyacid and a diol or polyol,the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid such as monodi- or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5 O E) oxypropylenated (5 OP) pentaerythritol, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, esters of polyol(s) and diacid dimer of fatty acid, or one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and their mixtures.

[0164] The content of pasty fats can range from 0.05 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Galenic

[0165] The composition of the invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the eyelids, eyebrows and lips, even more preferably a composition for the lips.

[0166] It may be a fluid or liquid composition, or a solid or pasty composition.

[0167] According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a fluid or liquid composition.

[0168] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a solid composition, in particular a stick, a composition packaged in a jar or a cup.

[0169] The composition may be in the form of a lip gloss, a fluid foundation, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick.

[0170] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is a "top-coat" composition, which can be used on any lip makeup composition, to provide a long-lasting matte (transfer-free) result.

[0171] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is a one-step makeup composition, to provide color, matte finish and hold (non-transfer).

[0172] According to a particular and preferred method, it will be a fluid, a gloss, a stick or a composition poured into a pot for the lips.

[0173] According to another particular mode, it will be a liner pencil.

[0174] According to another particular mode, it will be a stick or a pencil or a com Position in a pot or cup, applicable with a finger or brush, for eyebrows (ex: eyebrow pencil).

[0175] In another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge or brush, for the eyelids (ex: eyeshadow).

[0176] In another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge or brush, for the skin of the face, by target certain areas (e.g., complexion corrector or concealer).

[0177] Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a lip gloss, a fluid foundation, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick. cosmetic process

[0178] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0179] The compositions of the invention are as defined above.

[0180] Preferably, the composition applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip gloss, a fluid foundation, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick.

[0181] According to a particular method, the composition of the invention applied to the skin or lips, preferably the lips, comprises:

[0182] i. a silicone-polyurethane polymer, ii. one or more pigments, advantageously treated lipophilically, iii. of zinc oxide, and iv. one or more additional ingredients selected from fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers other than silicone-polyurethane polymer, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0183] In particular, the composition comprises:

[0184] i. a silicone-polyurethane polymer, in a content of 5% to 25% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), in particular in a content of 8% to 20% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition ii. one or more pigments, advantageously lipophilic, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and iii. of zinc oxide in a content ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition is a fluid lip composition comprising:

[0186] i. a silicone-polyurethane polymer, ii. one or more pigments, advantageously treated lipophilically, iii. of zinc oxide, iv. one or more fillers, in particular silica and v. one or more lipophilic gelling agents, in particular a hectorite.

[0187] According to another embodiment, the composition is a solid composition in the form of a lip stick comprising:

[0188] i. a silicone-polyurethane polymer, ii. one or more pigments, advantageously treated lipophilically, iii. of zinc oxide, iv. one or more waxes, v. one or more pasty fats, and vi. one or more charges.

[0189] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0190] 1. Effect of zinc oxide on improving the homogeneity of compositions comprising a silicone-polyurethane polymer and pigments

[0191] The Applicant observed the appearance at room temperature of mottling (or swirls) on the surface of formulas containing a silicone-polyurethane polymer and pigments (TiO2 and iron oxides), particularly for shades containing at least 0.5% by weight of titanium dioxide. It therefore sought to resolve this inhomogeneity problem and observed, after various tests, that zinc oxide resolved this issue.

[0192] Fluid lipstick formulas are prepared according to the same protocol, respectively with titanium dioxide (control) or zinc oxide (invention).

[0193] [Tables] Ingredients (INCI Name) With TiO2 (comparative control) With ZnO (invention) Volatile oils (dimethicone and C9-C12 alkanes) Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Silmer® UR-5050 BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER in ISO-DODECANE 35% (i.e., 14% dry weight of the silicone-polyurethane polymer) 35% (i.e., 14% dry weight of the silicone-polyurethane polymer) Disteardimonium hectorite 1.8% 1.8% Treated silica 6.5% 6.5% Titanium dioxide 5% - Zinc oxide - 10%* Pigments 3.2% 3.2% Pigment dispersant 0.9% 0.9% Crosslinked silicone elastomer (dimethicone crosspolymer) 2% 2%

[0194] *The amount of ZnO is multiplied by 2 compared to the amount of TiO2 to obtain the same covering power and to be 'iso-tinted' in the examples.

[0195] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure.

[0196] The pigments are ground. The ZnO and / or TiO2 are ground with the dispersing mixture, the pigments, and the oil using a ball mill (or a three-roll mill) to obtain a homogeneous and fine dispersion of pigments. The amount of oil used is sufficient to obtain a final fluid mixture.

[0197] The resulting ground material is gradually added to the remaining raw materials of the formulation. The mixture is blended at room temperature with an emulsifier (for example, a Rayneri brand mixer) at 3050 RPM for 10-15 min until the mixture is homogeneous.

[0198] The resulting mixture is then packaged in vials the following day.

[0199] The homogeneity of the compositions on the surface of the vials is observed after aging for a minimum of 15 days, at room temperature and with the naked eye.

[0200] The results are presented in the following table:

[0201] [Tables2] Control (with TiO2) Invention (ZnO as a replacement for TiO2) Appearance at room temperature of mottling (or swirls) on the surface of the formula Homogeneous composition Absence of mottling on the surface of the formula

[0202] These results illustrate that the use of zinc oxide, as a replacement for titanium dioxide, makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous composition, without flux or mottling, compared to the control composition (with TiO2). 2. Formulations

[0203] The following examples are illustrative and non-limiting examples of the invention, prepared according to methods well known to the cosmetic formulator.

[0204] 2.1 Fluid anhydrous lip composition

[0205] [Tables3] Ingredients (INCI Name) With ZnO (invention) Volatile oils (dimethicone and C9-C12 alkanes) Qsp 100% Silmer® UR-5050 BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER in ISO-DODECANE 34% (i.e., 13.6% dry matter of the silicone-polyurethane polymer) Disteardimonium hectorite (BENTONE GEL) 2.1% Treated silica 7% Zinc oxide 12% Pigments 2.8% Pigment dispersant 1.4% Crosslinked silicone elastomer (dimethicone crosspolymer) 2%

[0206] The formula is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0207]

[0208]

[0209]

[0210]

[0211]

[0212]

[0213]

[0214]

[0215]

[0216] The pigments in the formula are passed through a tri-roll mill (or ball mill) in the mixture of alkanes and dispersant, to obtain a homogeneous and fine dispersion of pigments. SILMER UR-5050 and BENTONE GEL are mixed and then gradually added to the pigment dispersion from the previous step. The fillers are added and the mixture is left to homogenize in the Rayneri for 10-15 minutes. The liquid composition is applied to the lips. The composition containing zinc oxide exhibits good color stability, without surface mottling. 2.2 Solid lip composition in stick form [Tables4] INGREDIENTS (INCI NAME) % by weight C9-C12 ALKANE Qsp 100 ISODODECANE 15 Silmer® UR-5050 BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DL METHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER in ISODODECANE 25% (i.e., 10% dry matter of the silicone-polyurethane polymer) HYDROPHOBIC TREATED IRON OXIDES 10 ZINC OXIDE 4 VEGETABLE WAXES 16 SILICA 3.0 JOJOBA ESTERS 3 This composition is prepared according to the following protocol: - the mixture of waxes, pastes and oils is heated to 95°C; - addition of the pigment phase, including Zinc oxide; - adding the load; - addition of the polymer; - adding the most volatile oil at the end of the process. The resulting composition is in the form of a stick with a homogeneous color, without any marbling.

Claims

Demands

1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) a silicone-polyurethane polymer, (ii) one or more pigments, advantageously lipophilic treated, and (iii) zinc oxide.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (I) CH? | ÇHj I CH\ 1 LJ " OH”Œ2“CHrŒ2~Si^On~Si--Of-Si— 1 II 1 CH3 t J CH3 in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the silicone polyurethane polymer is present in the composition in a content ranging from 5 to 25%, in particular from 6 to 20%, in particular from 8% to 15% by weight of active material (dry matter) relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the zinc oxide content ranges from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 35% by weight, especially from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably still from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1%, in particular is free from titanium dioxide.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a fluid or liquid composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a solid composition, in particular a stick or a composition packaged in a jar or cup.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises another additional ingredient selected from fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers distinct from silicone-polyurethane polymer, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is a fluid composition for lips, a lip gloss, a fluid foundation, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick.

10. Cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.