COSMETIC USE OF AN ASPARAGOPSIS EXTRACT FOR SEBUM REGULATING ACTION

Abstract

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Asparagopsis armata to reduce sebum production of the skin and / or scalp and / or to detoxify the skin and / or scalp. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for reducing sebum production of the skin and / or scalp, comprising applying an extract of Asparagopsis armata to the skin and / or scalp. Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC USE OF AN ASPARAGOPSIS EXTRACT FOR SEBUM REGULATING ACTION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Asparagopsis armata, as well as to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process comprising an application on the skin and / or scalp of an extract of Asparagopsis armata.

[0002] The present invention finds application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly in skin and hair cosmetics. Prior art

[0003] The skin is a vital organ in its own right, composed of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.

[0004] The hypodermis, located deep within and consisting mainly of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection, and also plays a role in storing energy reserves that can be rapidly mobilized for all biological needs, such as cell renewal, defense of the body or muscle contraction.

[0005] The outermost, and therefore most exposed, tissue is the epidermis. This stratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is composed of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protective functions. The predominant cells are keratinocytes, which divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the stratum corneum (the outermost layer), then are shed by desquamation, on average in 21 to 28 days. The major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, water-related, and bacteriological aggressions. This protection is ensured in particular by the most differentiated layers and the stratum corneum, known for its hydrophobic properties and its compact and impermeable appearance.

[0006] In an intermediate position, the dermis is a connective tissue primarily composed of fibroblasts and matrix proteins, giving the skin its well-known compressibility and elasticity. Within the connective tissue framework, other cells and structures are also interspersed, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network consisting of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as epidermal appendages. Dermal: hair, body hair, nails, sweat glands and pilosebaceous glands, which originate in the deep dermis. The latter, the pilosebaceous glands, are responsible for the synthesis and secretion of sebum, which is part of the hydrolipidic film, whose role is to protect the skin from external aggressions and dehydration.

[0007] Oily skin is considered a skin type that naturally secretes too much sebum. Hyperseborrhea, responsible for oily skin, is therefore primarily endogenous, but is also influenced by environmental factors such as the seasons, temperature, diet, alcohol, stress, upsets, and strong emotions, which can cause an increase in body temperature and promote a peak in sebum production.

[0008] Furthermore, sebaceous glands are unevenly distributed over the body, which explains why some areas are very oily and others less so. Generally, the areas richest in sebum are the scalp, face, upper back, and abdomen.

[0009] However, oily skin is unsightly because it often has a shiny appearance, with pores more visible than on normal skin. When the scalp is affected, the hair becomes oily faster than so-called normal hair.

[0010] Cosmetics aim to control excess sebum and correct the inconveniences of oily skin as well as the imbalances of combination skin, which affect the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose and chin).

[0011] The cosmetics market is very large and consumer expectations are very high. Whether they have oily / combination or not skin, they are increasingly turning to effective, natural and eco-designed products.

[0012] There therefore remains a real need to find new compositions and / or compounds of natural origin, enabling the improvement of the appearance and surface qualities of the skin, in particular combination to oily skin, and of the scalp. Description of the invention

[0013] The present invention is specifically designed to address these needs and drawbacks of the prior art.

[0014] The inventors of the present have highlighted properties of Asparagopsis armata which had never been described or suggested in the prior art.

[0015] Indeed, surprisingly, the inventors have shown that Asparagopsis armata helps to reduce the production of sebum in the skin and / or scalp.

[0016] The inventors have also demonstrated an antioxidant and detoxifying activity of Asparagopsis armata on the skin and scalp. In fact, the inventors have shown, quite unexpectedly, that the production of reactive oxygen species in the skin is lower in the presence of Asparagopsis extracts. armata. Thus, a first object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Asparagopsis armata to reduce the production of sebum of the skin and / or scalp and / or detoxify the skin and / or scalp.

[0017] Advantageously, reducing the skin's sebum production has the cosmetic effect of mattifying the skin. The skin can thus appear less shiny, and / or clearer.

[0018] Another advantage of the invention lies in the fact that reducing sebum production in the skin and / or scalp improves or prevents the formation of blackheads, oily skin, including pimples and comedones, or oily hair, particularly due to excessive sebum secretion by the scalp. Advantageously, reducing sebum production in the scalp can improve the cleansing effect on the hair and / or decrease the rate at which hair becomes oily again after shampooing, thus allowing for longer intervals between shampoos compared to prior art products.

[0019] Another advantage of the invention lies in the fact that the detoxifying activity of Asparagopsis armata helps to reduce the oxidative stress due to free radicals suffered by the skin, this oxidative stress itself playing a role in seboregulation via an increase in sebum production.

[0020] The cosmetic action of the invention aims to improve the aesthetics of the skin. It is therefore a purely aesthetic action, excluding any therapeutic action, allowing for the improvement of the surface appearance of the skin, and / or its appendages and / or mucous membranes, in particular to ultimately present a more aesthetic, regular, and / or homogeneous appearance. It is therefore a treatment for skin not exhibiting a pathological condition. The treatment of acne is thus excluded from the present invention. Furthermore, the use intended by the invention can be performed on skin referred to as "oily skin," that is, skin with excess sebum, and / or "combination skin," that is, skin with excess sebum on the T-zone of the face.

[0021] In general, any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.

[0022] Asparagopsis armata is a species of red alga in the family Bonnemai-soniaceae. Native to Australia and New Zealand, it is now common in the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Asparagopsis armata has a dimorphic life cycle comprising, on the one hand, a haploid phase (gametophyte) with sexual reproduction in the form of an erect, feathery thallus that is pink to brown in color, and on the other hand, a diploid phase (tetrasporophyte also called Falkenbergia) consisting of a mass of very fine pink filaments forming small, fluffy pom-poms.

[0023] The alga Asparagopsis armata can be obtained by any process known to man of the profession, for example, by cultivating and extracting algae using a photobioreactor, according to a completely sustainable process. Algae cultivation can, for example, be carried out in a suitable medium for the time necessary to reach an algae concentration of between 50,000 and 1,000,000 cells per ml. The culture is then centrifuged to harvest the algae. The resulting algae paste can be modified by bursting the algal cells, then removing membrane debris using any suitable separation technique, such as centrifugation and / or filtration, and / or by the action of a solvent to enrich the algae in certain constituents while simultaneously removing unnecessary or undesirable components for the intended application. Any suitable solvent can be used.These may include, for example, water, glycerin, or a mixture of the two, butylene glycol, propanediol, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Preferably, according to the invention, the extracts are liquid extracts of algae obtained preferably after culturing the microalgae, centrifuging, and grinding the pellet. These extracts may be water-soluble and / or fat-soluble.

[0024] Advantageously, the extract may be a water / glycerin extract.

[0025] For example, the seaweed can be harvested, possibly frozen, then extracted by hot maceration in water, before the extract is concentrated, filtered and then stabilized for example with vegetable glycerin.

[0026] Regardless of the type of extract, it may comprise approximately 0.01 to 20% of Asparagopsis armata extract, by weight relative to the total weight of said extract. For example, it may contain approximately 0.10 to 17%, 0.20 to 15%, 0.50 to 13%, or 1.00 to 10%. For instance, the extract may contain approximately 0.50% Asparagopsis armata, 19.5% water, and 80% glycerin.

[0027] The use according to the invention may be in any cosmetic form suitable for application to the skin, scalp, mucous membranes and / or hair. It may, for example, be a composition in a form selected from the group comprising an oil-in-water emulsion, or a water-in-oil emulsion, or a mixture of such emulsions. It may, for example, be a form selected from a cream, ointment, oil, milk, pomade, solution, powder, gel, serum, balm, butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, conditioner, mask, soap, or an emulsion that may be rinsed off or not rinsed off.

[0028] Advantageously, the Asparagopsis armata extract may be in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising between 0.01 and 10% by weight of said extract relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.1 to 2%, or from 0.1 to 3%, or from 0.5 to 5%, or from 1.0 to 8%.

[0029] In the present invention, "cosmetic composition" means any com A cosmetic product, meaning an aesthetically pleasing product, is intended for contact with the superficial parts of the human body, such as the epidermis, hair and scalp, and external mucous membranes. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition allows, exclusively or primarily, for the protection, perfuming, maintenance, modification of their aesthetic appearance, or correction of superficial defects. In particular, a cosmetic composition may include at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0030] By "cosmetically acceptable vehicle" is meant a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human skin cells, in particular epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic reaction and the like, and proportioned to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may contain at least one component selected from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol, this list not being exhaustive.

[0031] The cosmetic composition implemented in the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for manufacturing a cosmetic or dermatological composition. This could be, for example, a simple mixture. It could also be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example, a rotor-stator type turbine. It could also be, for example, a process using Temperature Inversion Phase (TIP), this process being classically used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions with particularly fine dispersed droplets, for example, with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 µm.

[0032] Asparagopsis armata extract can be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with one or more other cosmetically active or inactive substances or ingredients. Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not have a cosmetic or dermatological effect. These are the elements of the composition that, in particular, accompany the extract, constitute a specific formulation, preserve the active extract over time, etc. They may also include any basic product found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In contrast, active substances or ingredients are those that, in the intended cosmetic application, have an aesthetic effect. These may include, for example, at least one other extract chosen from the group comprising plant extracts, algae extracts, microalgae extracts, and fungal extracts.

[0033] Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for reducing sebum production on the skin and / or scalp and / or detoxifying the skin and / or scalp, comprising an application to the skin and / or scalp from an extract of Asparagopsis armata.

[0034] Other advantages may also become apparent to a person skilled in the art upon reading the examples below, given by way of illustration. Brief description of the drawings

[0035] Fig. 1 represents the quantification of lipids in sebocytes stimulated by 1 nM testosterone, with or without pretreatment, either with an extract of Asparagopsis armata 0.1% (“SPRG”) or with the reference compound (Dutasteride IpM), under the conditions described in Example 2 (*p<0.05; **p<0.01 - Student's t-test).

[0036] Figure 2 shows the production of ROS species (in %), evaluated by fluorescence measurement, following implementation of the protocol described in Example 5, by cells treated for 45 minutes with Asparagopsis armata extract (SPRG) at 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% in the presence of 200 pM hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂). EXAMPLES

[0037] Example 1: Preparation of an extract of Asparagopsis armata

[0038] The alga Asparagopsis armata is cultivated in a seawater medium.

[0039] When the concentration of algae in the medium is sufficient, the culture is stopped. The seaweed is then harvested and frozen. It is then extracted by hot maceration in water. The resulting extract is then concentrated, filtered, and stabilized with vegetable glycerin.

[0040] Example 2: Effect of an extract of Asparagopsis armata on sebum production by sebocytes

[0041] The SEBO662 human sebocyte cell line is pretreated for 4 hours with either the 0.1% Asparagopsis armata extract (“SPRG” in [Fig. 1]) or the reference compound (Dutasteride IpM). Stimulation by the addition of Testosterone InM is performed for 7 days, with the treatments repeated after 3 days.

[0042] Lipid droplets are labeled using Bodipy®, then the nuclei are counterstained with Hoechst 33258 and quantified by image analysis (INCell Analyzer).

[0043] Asparagopsis armata extract results in a significant inhibition of 24% of sebum production compared to cells treated with InM testosterone, without pre-treatment.

[0044] These results demonstrate the effect of Asparagopsis Armata extract on reducing sebum production by sebocytes.

[0045] Example 3: Evaluation of the effectiveness of a shampoo containing an extract of Asparagopsis armata on hair cleansing by sebumetry

[0046] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effectiveness of a detoxifying shampoo including an extract of Asparagopsis armata (hereinafter referred to as the "Shampoo"), on the cleansing of hair by sebumetry over 48 hours.

[0047] 14 volunteers, with normal (36%) or oily (64%) hair types, carried out A single application of the shampoo was made to half of the head of wet hair, followed by a 5-minute massage. Afterwards, the hair was rinsed and blow-dried.

[0048] The measurements were carried out at the level of the hair root, at T0 - Timmédiat - T24heures - T48heures.

[0049] The cleanliness of the hair is directly related to the sebum present on the surface of the hair and scalp. Monitoring this lipid index therefore allows for monitoring hair cleanliness.

[0050] In the context of the present study, a hair product is considered to have a cleansing effect if the lipid index immediately after application is significantly lower than at T0.

[0051] The product's efficacy is evaluated by comparing measurements taken before and immediately after application, 24 hours and 48 hours after. The lipid index is measured in µg / cm², with each volunteer serving as their own control.

[0052] The measuring device used is a Courage and Khazaka SM 810 Sebumeter.

[0053] Evaluation of the cleaning effect under the study conditions:

[0054] - Immediately after application following the Shampoo protocol, we observe a statistically significant average decrease in the lipid index of 41.9 qg / cm2 (100% of responding volunteers) compared to T0.

[0055] - 24 and 48 hours after application following the Shampoo protocol, we observe a statistically significant mean decrease in the lipid index of 39.8 qg / cm2 and 29.3 qg / cm2 respectively (100% and 83% of responding volunteers) compared to T0

[0056] In conclusion, the Shampoo has a significant immediate cleansing effect, and the hair remains clean for up to 48 hours after shampooing.

[0057] Example 4: Evaluation of the effectiveness of a mask containing an extract of Asparagopsis armata on the cleansing and re-oiling of hair by sebum sorting

[0058] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effectiveness of a Scrub Mask comprising an extract of Asparagopsis armata (hereinafter referred to as the "Mask") on the cleansing of hair by sebumetry and re-greasing over 72 hours.

[0059] 12 volunteers, with normal (33%) or oily (67%) hair types, carried out A single application of the mask was made to half of wet hair, left on for 2 minutes, then massaged for 5 minutes. Afterwards, the mask was rinsed, and a neutral control shampoo was applied to the entire head. head. The hair was then dried with a hairdryer.

[0060] The measurements were carried out at the level of the hair root, at T0 - Timmédiat - T24heures - T48heures - T72heures.

[0061] The cleanliness of the hair is directly related to the sebum present on the surface of the hair and scalp. Monitoring this lipid index therefore allows us to track the cleanliness and re-oiling of the hair. We consider that a hair product has a cleansing effect if the lipid index immediately after application is significantly lower than at T0, and an effect on re-oiling if the lipid index is significantly lower than in the untreated area.

[0062] The product's efficacy is evaluated by comparing measurements taken before and immediately after application, 24 hours, 48 ​​hours, and 72 hours after application, and by comparison to an untreated area. The lipid index is measured in µg / cm², with each volunteer serving as their own control.

[0063] The measuring device used is a Courage and Khazaka SM 810 Sebumeter.

[0064] Evaluation of the cleaning effect under the study conditions:

[0065] - Immediately after application according to the Mask protocol, a statistically significant mean decrease in lipid index of 31 qg / cm2 (100% of responding volunteers) compared to T0.

[0066] - 24 and 48 hours after application according to the Mask protocol, a A statistically significant mean decrease in the lipid index of 30.1 qg / cm2 and 23.8 qg / cm2 respectively (100% of responding volunteers) compared to T0. The condition of the hair remained statistically equivalent at Timmédiat and for 48 hours.

[0067] - 72 hours after application according to the Mask protocol, no variation no statistically significant mean of the lipid index was observed compared to T0.

[0068] After 72 hours, the condition of the hair is statistically equivalent to before shampooing.

[0069] Evaluation of the effect on re-greasing under the study conditions:

[0070] - at T0 and immediately after application according to the Mask protocol, none No statistically significant mean variation in the lipid index was observed between the control area and the treated area. The two hemi-heads were statistically equivalent.

[0071] - 24 hours after application following the Mask protocol, no statistical variation No significant difference between the two hemi-heads was observed.

[0072] - 48 hours and 72 hours after application according to the Mask protocol, we observe a statistically significant average decrease in the lipid index of 2.9 qg / cm2 and 11 qg / cm2 respectively on the treated side compared to the control area.

[0073] The half of the head treated by Mask, re-greases less quickly.

[0074] In conclusion, the Mask has a significant immediate cleansing effect, hair remains clean for up to 48 hours after use, and reduces re-greasyness for up to 72 hours.

[0075] Example 5: Antioxidant activity of an extract of Asparagopsis armata

[0076] Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were pre-incubated for 1 hour in the presence of the DCFH-DA probe (2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate). After rinsing, the cells were treated for 45 minutes with Asparagopsis armata extract (SPRG) at 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% in the presence of 200 pM hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂). The production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) was assessed by fluorescence measurement, which was proportional to the degradation of the DCFH-DA probe upon contact with ROS.

[0077] The results are shown in [Fig.2]. These results show that the production of reactive oxygen species is lower in the presence of Asparagopsis armata extracts, demonstrating the antioxidant, and therefore detoxifying, effect of the extract on human epidermal keratinocytes.

Claims

Demands

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Asparagopsis armata to reduce sebum production of the skin and / or scalp and / or detoxify the skin and / or scalp by reducing oxidative stress due to free radicals experienced by the skin and / or scalp.

2. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 1, to mattify the skin.

3. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, to improve or prevent the formation of blackheads, oily-looking skin, including pimples and / or comedones, or oily-looking hair.

4. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, said use being in a form selected from a cream, ointment, oil, milk, pomade, solution, powder, gel, serum, balm, butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, conditioner, mask, soap or emulsion which may be rinsed off or not rinsed off.

5. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract is a water / glycerin extract.

6. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the extract comprises about 0.01 to 20% of Asparagopsis armata extract, by weight relative to the total weight of said extract.

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said Asparagopsis armata extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising between 0.01 and 10% by weight of said extract relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1 to 2%.

8. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 7, wherein said extract contains about 0.50% Asparagopsis armata, 19.5% water and 80% glycerin.

9. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for reducing sebum production in the skin and / or scalp and / or detoxifying the skin and / or scalp by reducing oxidative stress due to free radicals experienced by the skin and / or scalp, comprising application to the skin and / or the scalp of an extract of Asparagopsis armata.

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