Cosmetic composition with coloring ingredient of plant origin, mollusc shell powder and fatty substance of particular plant origin.

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising (a) one or more coloring ingredients of plant origin, (b) at least one mollusc shell powder, in particular an oyster shell powder, and (c) one or more non-oxyalkylenated fatty substances of plant origin based on ester(s). Makeup process using this composition.

Description

Description Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition with a coloring ingredient of vegetable origin, mollusc shell powder and a particular vegetable fat.

[0001] — In the field of cosmetics, and especially makeup, it is known to use colored pigments of mineral or synthetic organic origin, either alone either in combination, dispersed in powdered formulas or in formulas liquids, creams or solids, containing in particular fats. The pigments mentioned above, and in particular synthetic organic pigments However, they can pose safety problems. Furthermore, these pigments are not not derived from renewable sources and their carbon footprint is not favorable. Therefore, there is a need to find substitutes for these organic pigments syn- thematic. It was therefore proposed to use organic colored pigments of natural origin. animal carmine, widely used in cosmetic products Makeup products. But the animal origin of this product may also be off-putting. the user. Therefore, colored pigments of plant origin have been proposed as a substitute for existing colored pigments such as madder extract (Rubia Tinctorum extract) appearing in commercial products. Chinese patent applications CN109260036 of GONG CHENGFENG and CN106667874 of PENG ZHICHENG also respectively propose the use of, among other things, anthocyanins, lutein, and red tomato pigment on the one hand and red dragon fruit pigment on the other (pitaya). But more often than not, these plant-based colored pigments are less effective. that synthetic mineral or organic pigments, particularly in the field of the coverage of the cosmetic product on its application substrate. It was proposed in application FR3103108 (A1) by the applicant of the com- cosmetic positions for makeup on the skin or lips or eyelashes or nails comprising one or more colouring extracts of vegetable origin (a) and one or several water-insoluble, non-siliconized, lamellar solid compounds (b), these the latter being preferably chosen from guanine, zinc oxide, stearates of divalent metals and their mixtures. However, the origins of these compounds (b) (for zinc oxide, mineral origin) (zincite) requiring extraction from quarries or most often of syn- origin Thetic, for stearates of synthetic origin, for guanine of synthetic origin more often or animal excrement) can raise image questions in the mind of the consumer. Furthermore, the use of mollusc shell powders, and in particular oyster shells, in cosmetics has been proposed. The CN1 11494288 (A) document from UNIV GUANGXI MEDICAL proposes nourishing skincare solutions that include, in an aqueous medium, among other ingredients, oyster shell powder and natural extracts, which may be tea extract and / or chamomile flower extract and / or chrysanthemum flower extract. Lipsticks are mentioned as a possible application. While the addition of surfactants is considered (polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil), no fatty substances are mentioned. Document CN109953934 (A) by ZHENG YONGGANG claims a method for preparing a whitening facial mask using oyster shell, the mask containing, among other ingredients, anti-ultraviolet zinc oxide. However, no coloring agents are listed and no fatty substances are mentioned. Guangdong Ocean University Patent CN108434081 (A) claims a facial moisturizing cream for relieving inflammation, composed of two parts: the first comprising, among other ingredients, oil (including olive oil), cucumber extract, and astragalus powder; and the second comprising oyster shell powder. Cucumber extract and astragalus powder are not coloring agents. The composition may contain fatty alcohols, including cetyl, palmitic, and cetostearyl alcohols. No other fats are mentioned. Guangdong Ocean University Patent CN108420785 (A) claims a process for preparing a whitening facial mask containing chitosan; the whitening facial mask further comprising, among other ingredients, oyster shell powder, aloe vera gel, and lemon juice. These last two ingredients are not coloring agents. No other coloring agents are mentioned.No fats are mentioned. Document CN106137891 (A) from QINGDAO ZHONGTIAN ZHICHENG SERVICE PLATFORM OF SCIENCE AND TECH CO LTD claims a whitening mask rich in marine biological additives, including oyster shell powder and fish oil, among other ingredients. No other fats are mentioned. No coloring ingredients are listed. Document CN106074680 (A) from YAO JINIIAN claims a product for the treatment of dermatitis, eczema, and other inflammatory skin diseases, particularly ringworm, containing oyster shell powder and Sophora flavescens powder, which is not a coloring ingredient. An ointment base is mentioned without further details. Document CN107536730 (A) from ZHOU LI claims 'a soft and non-irritating lip balm comprising, among other ingredients, calcium carbonate, evening primrose seed oil, pigments, and water.' The nature of the pigments is not specified in the document. Finally, document WO2022175662 A1 from BARE NATIVE LTD describes a specific process for treating oyster shells to produce oyster shell powder. The resulting powder, among other uses mentioned, can be used in cosmetics, particularly for skincare as an exfoliant, but no details are provided regarding its composition. There is a need to make available improved cosmetic compositions, particularly for makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, or nails, with ingredients that have an improved impact for the consumer while having good technical properties, particularly in terms of coverage and the intensity of the colors obtained on the anatomical substrate of application. To this end, the applicant recommends cosmetic compositions comprising (a) one or more colouring ingredients of vegetable origin, (b) at least one mollusc shell powder and (c) one or more non-oxy-alkylated vegetable fats based on ester(s). The term "fatty substance" refers to a compound insoluble in water, comprising in its structure at least one hydrocarbon chain with at least 6 carbon atoms and preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. For the purposes of this invention, a compound insoluble in water is understood to be a compound whose solubility in water is less than 0.25% (0.25 g per 100 ml), preferably less than 0.05%, better less than 0.005% at room temperature (range of 15°C to 37°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of mercury). The compositions of the invention then exhibit, after application to the anatomical substrate, good color intensity and good coverage. By good color intensity, we mean a color that is not too light once applied to the substrate, regardless of the desired color reflection. Good coverage means good coverage of the substrate requiring a small amount of product to achieve the desired overall color effect in terms of intensity and the strength of the desired reflection. This small amount results in a thinner layer of product and a better feel. The compositions of the invention comprise one or more coloring ingredients of vegetable origin (a). For the purposes of this invention, a coloring ingredient of plant origin means an ingredient containing one or more colorings derived from a plant or a plant secretion. A coloring ingredient is defined as an ingredient capable of imparting a color other than white to a substrate. Coloring ingredients of plant origin (a) can come from all types of plants belonging to the plant kingdom. They can thus come from cryptogams, but more preferably from phanerogams. In particular, they can come from trees, shrubs, green plants, flowering plants, cacti, and grasses. They can come from all parts of the plant, and in particular from the roots, stems or trunks, leaves, flowers, and fruits. They can also come from plant secretions or exudates produced by the plants themselves, particularly in reaction to or as a preventative measure against an attack. The ingredients (a) may consist of a whole plant or a part of a plant, or of an extract of a whole plant or a part of a plant. Preferably, the ingredients (a) are extracts of whole plants or parts of plants. The ingredients (a) may be obtained by grinding, by extraction with water or solvents or supercritical carbon dioxide, by chemical or enzymatic attack, or by a combination of these methods. There may then be a concentration step in the coloring agents by filtration or solvent evaporation. Finally, the addition of adjuvants is possible to facilitate processing. These ingredients (a) may be soluble or insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. As dye ingredients of plant origin (a) and in particular of dye extracts of plant origin, we can mention those from the following plants: Garance (example of species Rubia Tinctorum) Tomato (species Solanum Lycopersicum) Quebracho (example of species Schinopsis quebracho-colorado) Pernambouc (example of species Caesalpinia Echinata) Chestnut tree (example of species Castanea Sativa) Turmeric (example of species Turmeric) Sorghum (exermple of species Sorghum Bicolor) Cachou (species Acacia Catechu) Rocouyer (example of species Bixa Orellana) Sappan (example of species Caesalpinia Sappan) Genipa (example of species Genipa Americana) Indigotier (species Indigofera Tinctoria) Red cabbage (example of species Brassica Oleracea) Réséda (example of species Reseda Luteola) Sumac (example of the species Rhus Semialata) Preferably, coloring ingredients of vegetable origin (a) are chosen from those derived from madder, tomato, sorghum and chestnut, sumac. The plant-based coloring ingredients of the invention are preferably dispersed in the cosmetic composition containing them. By dispersed is meant that the extract is insolubilized or not completely solubilized in the composition at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The concentration of ingredients (a) in the compositions of the invention varies preferably from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 50%, better from 2% to 40%, even better from 4% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is possible to add to the colouring ingredients of vegetable origin (a) other colouring ingredients soluble in water or preferably insoluble in water at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and in particular synthetic organic pigments or mineral pigments. Preferably, colouring ingredients of vegetable origin (a) are the only colouring ingredients present in the compositions of the invention. The compositions of the invention include at least one mollusc shell powder (b). Molluscs (Mollusca) constitute a phylum of lophotrochozoan animals. They are unsegmented animals with bilateral symmetry, sometimes altered. Their bodies generally consist of a head, a visceral mass, and a foot. The visceral mass is covered in whole or in part by a mantle. It is the mantle that secretes the shell of most mollusks, which serves as protection and / or a skeleton and / or a buoyancy regulator. The shell generally comprises, from the outside in: a multicolored cuticle; a layer formed of prisms perpendicular to the surface; and finally, a lamellar layer made up of lamellae of varying compositions. This inner layer, when the lamellae are thin enough to diffract light, constitutes nacre, and, indirectly, fine pearls. The shell of molluscs is made up of calcium carbonate and organic matter secreted by the organism's mantle. This organic matter is mainly composed of polysaccharides and proteins such as conchiolin. According to the MolluscaBase2 database, there are currently nine classes of molluscs, the main ones being gastropods, bivalves and cephalopods. Preferably the molluscs in powders (b) are bivalve molluscs. Bivalves (Bivalvia) are a class of freshwater and marine molluscs, also called Pelecypoda (pelecypods) or Lamellibranchia (lamellibranchs). Preferably, the molluscs are chosen from among clams, oysters, mussels, scallops, Saint Jacques shells, cockles, sea almonds and their mixtures. The particle size of the powders (b) of the invention can preferably vary from 1 to 500 µm, and more preferably from 5 to 300 µm. Particle size measurements can be taken using laser particle size analyzers based on light diffraction technology. Examples of mollusc shell powders usable within the scope of the invention include OSTREASHELL oyster shell powder, WHITESHELL scallop shell powder, and MUSSELSHELL mussel shell powder, offered by the company ENTRE MER ET TERRE in various particle sizes. You can also use the OYSTER SRUB 300 product offered by the company CA- REACTIVE. Most preferably, the mollusks are oysters. Powders (b) can be obtained from whole shells or shell fractions. Preferably they are obtained from whole crushed shells. The concentration of powder(s) (b) of the compositions of the invention varies preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 35%, better from 2.5% to 30%, even better from 6% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention comprise one or more non-oxyakylated vegetable fats (c) based on ester(s). Non-oxyalkylated means a compound that does not contain alkylene oxide groups in its structure, in particular ethylene oxide or propylene oxide. It should be recalled that the presence of oxyalkylated groups in a molecule results in an increase in the HLB of that molecule, therefore in the appearance of surfactant properties allowing the emulsification of fats in aqueous media. An ester-based ingredient is defined as an ingredient in which ester compounds constitute the highest percentage by weight. Preferably the fats of the invention are chosen from among non-chemically modified fats or fats which have undergone only possible chemical modifications such as hydrogenation and / or transesterification reactions. In organic chemistry, transesterification is the process of exchanging the organic group R' from an ester (RCOO-R') with the organic group R" from an alcohol (R"-OH). This alcohol can be a monoalcohol or a polyol. These reactions are often catalyzed by the addition of an acidic or basic catalyst. Chemical modifications such as hydrogenation and / or transesterification can be total or partial. Apart from the chemical hydrogenation or transesterification operations mentioned above, obtaining the fats (c) of the invention may involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing, or micronization. Even more preferably, the fats (c) of the invention are chosen from vegetable oils, vegetable butters, and vegetable waxes that have undergone only hydrogenation and / or transesterification reactions as possible chemical modifications. For the purposes of this invention, oil means a compound that is insoluble in liquid water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Vegetable oils are based on triglycerides, that is to say, esters of glycerol, which is a trialcohol with fatty acids. Raw vegetable oils may also contain minor elements such as sterols, triterpenic alcohols, and tocopherols. Oils are liquid compounds at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, that is to say, compounds capable of flowing under the action of their own weight.Among the vegetable oils that can be used in the invention, the following may be mentioned in particular: sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra or coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, raspberry seed oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, oil of sesame, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, oat oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, apple oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, coffee oil. The fats (c) can be chosen from vegetable butters. Butters are distinguished from oils, and in particular from vegetable oils, by their appearance. They are in solid or semi-solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and generally have a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C. They contain triglycerides with a significant fraction of saturated fatty acids. They can be natural or result from hydrogenation and / or transesterification of a vegetable oil. Butters can be chosen from among natural vegetable butters such as that shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, babassu butter, almond butter, jojoba butter, apricot butter, pistachio butter, argan butter, avocado butter, coconut butter, olive butter, plum butter, oat butter, cupuaçu butter, murumuru butter, apricot butter, hazelnut butter, tucuma butter, lemon butter, rice butter, macadamia butter, jasmine butter, rose butter, more preferably mango butter, jojoba butter, almond butter, and compounds that have undergone only hydrogenation as a chemical transformation, such as jojoba butter. With a few exceptions, plant waxes are produced and localized on the surface of the aerial parts of plants, at the level of their cuticle. Plant cuticular waxes are essentially composed of aliphatic compounds, which can be schematically divided into two groups. The first group includes the most common compounds such as alkanes, esters, acids, primary alcohols, and aldehydes. The second group, on the other hand, comprises rarer compounds such as ketones, secondary alcohols, and β-diketones. Other minor, non-aliphatic elements are also found. These are cyclic or polycyclic compounds grouped under the term triterpenoids and present in the form of alcohols (sterols, α-amyrin, β-amyrin, lupeol, erythrodiol, etc.) or acids (ursolic, olenolic, etc.). For vegetable waxes proper, the esterification of fatty acids occurs with a mono- or dihydroxylated fatty alcohol, whereas for natural vegetable oils or vegetable butters, it occurs with glycerol, in which case triesters (triglycerides) are formed. Monoesters or diesters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are therefore the predominant components of the ester fraction of waxes of the invention, which clearly distinguishes them from vegetable butters or oils. The fatty acids in the esters of these waxes are generally saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, containing 16 to 28 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of these same esters can be mono or di hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and generally contain 20 to 34 carbon atoms. Preferably the melting point of the waxes of the invention is greater than or equal to 30°C, better greater than 35°C, even better greater than 40°C. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the one offered by METTLER under reference DSC 30. Vegetable waxes (c) are preferably chosen from natural waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax and in particular rice bran wax, esparto grass wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, wax From Japan, sumac wax, orange wax, laurel wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, lacquer tree (Rhus verniciflua) fruit bark wax, soy wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, avocado wax, peach wax, and argan wax. As previously stated, the vegetable waxes of the invention can be hydrogenated. These vegetable waxes, hydrogenated or not, can also be transesterified. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of fatty substances (c) preferably ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight, better from 1% to 85% by weight, even better from 2% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may also contain, as optional additives, fats different from the ingredients (c). The additional fat(s) are chosen from oils or waxes. Additional oils can be polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile (an oil is said to be non-volatile when its vapor pressure is less than 0.02 mm of mercury at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature). Additional oils can be hydrocarbon, mineral or synthetic. They can also be silicone or fluorinated. Silicone oils can be linear, branched or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes possibly carrying aryl groups and in particular phenyl groups. Nonpolar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from paraffin oil, isoparaffins (isodecane, isodecanes), linear alkanes (n-dodecane), squalane, eicosane, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutylenes or polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes. Polar oils are preferably hydrocarbon-based. They can be chosen from among branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol and octyldodecanol. Additional waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated, and can be of natural mineral, animal, or synthetic origin. They can be polar or non-polar. Examples of non-polar waxes include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. Polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. Ester waxes are preferably chosen from esters of fatty acid(s) and / or fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. These ester waxes can be derived from hydrogenated animal oils. Alcohol waxes are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in solid form. room temperature and atmospheric pressure such as cetyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol. Among the additional waxes of animal origin, beeswax is preferred. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not include silicone-based fats. In the compositions of the invention the content of additional fats other than fats (c) can vary from 0.1% to 90% by weight, better from 0.2% to 75% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants selected from anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. The compositions according to the invention may further include one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers, and in particular thickening polymers, mineral thickeners, UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, solvents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, pro-vitamins, amino acids, perfumes, peptide-forming agents, preservatives, antioxidants, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular for regulating the pH of aqueous compositions or for salting ingredients), color-fixing agents, and anti-wrinkle agents. The compositions of the invention can be aqueous or anhydrous. For the purposes of this invention, anhydrous means a composition containing at room temperature less than 5% water by weight, even better less than 1% water by weight and preferably containing no water, in particular no added water. For the purposes of this invention, "aqueous" means a composition containing, at room temperature, from 5% to 99.01% water by weight. Preferably, if it is aqueous, the composition comprises, at room temperature, from 25% to 98% water, and more preferably from 40% to 95% water by weight. Preferably, the composition(s) of the invention are anhydrous. The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably compositions for topical use. A topical composition is defined as a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external bodily substrates. The compositions according to the invention are particularly intended for the treatment of skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes, and eyebrows. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are intended for skin makeup. Lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, or nails with added color to these substrates. For the purposes of this invention, "added color" means a modification of the substrate's color other than simple bleaching. The compositions of the invention may be in the form of powders, compact solids, solutions or emulsions. Preferably the compositions of the invention are in the form of powders or compact solids. Skin makeup compositions can include foundations, shadows, or eyeshadows. Even more preferentially, the compositions of the invention are intended for lip makeup. The best composition of the invention is a solid composition for lip makeup. Even better, the invention's composition comes in the form of a lipstick stick. The invention also covers a method of applying makeup to the skin, or lips, or eyelashes, or eyebrows or nails, better to the skin or lips or eyelashes, comprising at least one step of applying to the relevant anatomical substrate a composition according to the invention, preferably without subsequent rinsing. [Examples] The examples below illustrate the invention without however limiting its scope. Example 1 The composition described in Table 1 below is that of a lipstick tube. After application to the lips, it provides a beautiful, intense color. The coverage is very good. [Table 1] Quantity in g per 100g of composition 6 16 19.25 32.27 |18 |5.6 1.83 0.87 0.18 Comparative examples. The composition of example 1 is complete. Composition 2 is carried out in parallel in which the 16 g of oyster shell powder (b) are replaced by 16 g of calcium carbonate (composition 2), a raw material outside the invention whose composition is closest to that of oyster shell powder. To evaluate the dyeing properties of these compositions, a film of each of these compositions is deposited in a regular and reproducible manner on a white paper (Copy 3 Office paper from the Fabriano company, density 80 g / m² and with a high white point). The colorimetric results obtained are then evaluated directly via the Color Grab smartphone application in the CIE L*a*b* system (L* designating the luminance, a* the red component (on an axis from green to red) and b* the yellow component (on an axis from blue to yellow). The results are grouped in the following table for both compositions and for the paper reference: [Tables 2] | Composition | Ingredient studied | L+ | a+ | b* | 1 |2558 |s6 2 Carbonate of |248 25.1 ]s6 Reference jo2 [06 99.3 O Oyster shell powder (22.9g), calcium carbonate (24.8g), Copy paper (3.99g), Office (Fabriano) Coverage is assessed by the color lift. This rise is determined by the color difference between the white paper and the color of the lipstick film applied to this paper, this color difference delta E being calculated from the classic relationship Delta E = (dL*2 + da*2 + db*2)1 / 2 dL*, da*, and db* are respectively the differences in luminance (or brightness ranging from 0 to 100, where 100 represents pure white and 0 represents pure black), red component (on a red-green axis), and yellow component (on a blue-yellow axis) between the paper reference and the lipstick film. The higher the delta E, the greater the color lift, and therefore the greater the coverage. The intensity of the color is evaluated by the parameter dL*. The higher the dL* value, the darker and therefore more intense the shade. The results are as follows: [Tables 3] Composition dL* |1 76.4 2 74.5 It is observed that the most intense and covering colour is obtained with composition 1 according to the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising (a) one or more ingredients colorants of vegetable origin, (b) at least one powder of shells of molluscs and (c) one or more fatty substances of non-oxygenated vegetable origin alkylenated and ester(s) based.

2. Composition according to claim 1 in which the ingredient(s) colorants (a) come from the following plants: madder, tomato, quebracho, pernambuco, chestnut, turmeric, sorghum, cachou, annatto, sappan, genipa, indigo, red cabbage, mignonette, sumac.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the coloring ingredient(s) (a) are extracts of whole plants or parts of plants.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims. in which the concentration of coloring ingredients (a) varies from 0.1% to 60%, more preferably from 1% to 50%, better from 2% to 40%, even better from 4% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims. wherein the molluscs are bivalve molluscs.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim in which the molluscs are chosen from clams, oysters, mussels, scallops, scallops, cockles, sea ​​almonds and their mixtures.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim. in which the mollusks are oysters.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim. in which the concentration of mollusc shell powder(s) (b) varies from 0.1% to 40%, more preferably from 1.5% to 35%, better from 2.5% to 30%, even better from 6% to 25% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim. in which the fatty substance(s) of vegetable origin are chosen from vegetable oils, vegetable butters and vegetable waxes having no undergone as the only possible chemical modifications that hydrogenation and / or transesterification reactions.

10. | Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the original fatty bodies (c) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight, better from 1% to 85% by weight weight, even better from 2% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. | Composition according to any one of the preceding claims ca- characterized by the fact that it is anhydrous.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims ca- characterized in that it is for topical use.

13. A composition according to any preceding claim ca- characterized in that it comes in the form of a stick of lipstick lips.

14. Method of making up the skin, or the lips, or the eyelashes, or the eyebrows or nails, better skin or lips or eyelashes comprising at least one step of applying to the substrate anatomical concerned a composition according to any of the re- previous claims, preferably without subsequent rinsing.