COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES FOR REFRESHING COLORED HAIR
A single-step hair treatment using an acid-bonding restoration base and color-toning system addresses the need for repairing and neutralizing brassy tones in lightened hair, achieving effective and stable hair restoration.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022012420
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-11-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-28
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-11-28
AI Technical Summary
Consumers desire a single-step hair treatment that repairs damage and neutralizes brassy tones in lightened hair without compromising color toning benefits, while ensuring stability and aesthetic properties.
A hair refreshing composition combining an acid-bonding restoration base with a color-toning system, including direct dyes and specific surfactants, provides a stable and effective single-step solution for repairing damaged hair and neutralizing brassy tones in lightened hair.
The composition effectively restores hair texture, neutralizes brassy tones, and maintains color stability over time, offering rapid treatment results and long-lasting benefits.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR REFRESHING COLORED HAIR technical field
[0001] The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating keratinous substrates, such as skin, hair, and / or scalp, and in particular for restoring and applying color toning to lightened keratinous substrates. The hair-refreshing composition may be a rinse-out composition containing an acid-bonding restoration base and a color-toning system, such as a rinse-out treatment, shampoo, or cleanser. The processes may include the use of acid-bonding and toning compositions to restore and apply color to lightened keratinous substrates and / or condition the skin, hair, and / or scalp. BACKGROUND
[0002] Consumers want healthy skin and strong, healthy hair, as healthy-looking skin and hair are considered a sign of good health and hygiene. Consumers who choose to use lightening agents on keratinous tissues, such as bleaching agents to lighten hair, often experience damage, dryness, and undesirable color / tone qualities in their hair. When a bleaching treatment is applied, it is common for hair to become weak due to the breaking of bonds in the hair fibers. In addition, lightening can result in a more pronounced natural base tone in the consumer's hair. Particularly in the case of blonde consumers, unwanted base or warm tones cause the so-called "brassy" appearance.To neutralize hair damage, bond repair treatments are used, and toning compositions can be applied to neutralize brassiness. Unfortunately, bond repair compositions are not suitable for providing color-toning benefits to neutralize the brassy appearance associated with lightening. Therefore, treatment routines for lightened hair typically require multiple post-lightening steps, often necessitating visits to a professional hairdresser to sequentially apply different compositions to achieve bond repair and color toning. These routines can prove ineffective and expensive. Attempts to reduce the routine to a single step by mixing treatments are generally unsuccessful because direct mixing of the compositions... Incompatibility in bonding and shading may result in a decrease in the effectiveness of one or both due to the incompatibility of the respective components.
[0003] Consumers perceive a need for a composition that repairs damaged hair and addresses brassiness. Such a composition must not demonstrate any diminished performance in the benefits of color restoration and / or toning and / or neutralization compared to two-step treatment routines, and must have sufficient stability for shelf storage and consumer use, and must possess excellent aesthetic properties. Therefore, such a composition must include the appropriate combination and proportions of bonding and color-toning repairing components to provide excellent repairing properties that impart moisture, detangling properties, shine, and a smooth texture to the hair, while also offering excellent color refreshing to tone and / or neutralize brassiness, thus enabling the consumer to achieve the desired color and brightness.
[0004] This disclosure addresses consumer needs and performance requirements in hair refreshing composition and skin, hair and / or scalp refreshing process, in which the hair refreshing composition can be used in a single step to provide surprisingly effective color-shaping and / or neutralizing benefits and a bonding benefit that consumers associate with healthy hair, as well as good foaming, lathering and distribution upon application and physical and chemical stability. SUMMARY
[0005] According to various embodiments, the disclosure proposes a hair refreshing composition comprising a color toning system including at least one direct dye, and an acid bond restoring base, in which the acid bond restoring base includes at least one anionic surfactant including an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester including coco-caprylate / caprate, at least one cationic compound, at least one additional surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and their combinations, and a cosmetically acceptable solvent including water.
[0006] In some embodiments, one or more direct dyes are present in the hair refreshing composition from about 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0007] In certain particular embodiments, one or more of the direct dyes include a direct dye of violet tone.
[0008] In certain specific embodiments, the direct purple dye consists of the direct dye EXT. VIOLET 2 and is present in the hair refreshing composition from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%. In certain specific embodiments, the direct purple dye consists of the direct dye EXT. VIOLET 2 and is present in the hair refreshing composition from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0009] In certain specific embodiments, the hair refreshing composition excludes HC VIOLET NO. 2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC RED 51, or combinations thereof. In certain specific embodiments, the hair refreshing composition excludes each of HC VIOLET NO. 2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, and BASIC RED 51.
[0010] According to some embodiments, the hair refreshing composition includes direct color dyes for violet tones which are supplied at various concentrations which achieve the cosmetic shade effect desired by the consumer with a processing time of about 5 minutes and which demonstrate stability.
[0011] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides, monounsaturated glyceryl esters, betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, amphopropionates and their combinations.
[0012] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant comprising one or more alkyl polyglucosides selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and combinations thereof, or one or more monounsaturated glyceryl esters selected from the group consisting of glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl citrate, and stearate. Glyceryl lactate, or mixtures thereof.In some embodiments, at least one monounsaturated glyceryl ester may be selected from polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and combinations thereof, or a combination thereof.
[0013] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cacaomidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cacaomidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and their combinations.
[0014] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one cationic compound selected from the group consisting of cationic amine-based compounds, quaternary ammonium-based compounds, cationic cellulose-based compounds, cationic starch-based compounds, cationic galactomannan-based compounds, cationic silicone-based compounds and combinations thereof.
[0015] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one cationic compound selected from the group consisting of cationic guar, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67, and their combinations.
[0016] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises at least one emulsifier selected from the group consisting of ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, glycol distearate, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, monostearate glyceryl, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, and their combinations.
[0017] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one polymeric thickener selected from the group consisting of a carbomer, a beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, a C10-30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymer, an ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate crosslinked polymer, an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer and a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar, ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum, and combinations thereof.
[0018] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of a pH adjuster, a chelating agent, alcohol, an antimicrobial / preservative agent, vitamins, perfume, humectants, emulsifiers and combinations thereof.
[0019] In certain embodiments, the hair-cooling composition is free or substantially free of imidazolium compounds, ammonium compounds, and combinations thereof. In certain specific embodiments, the hair-cooling composition is free or essentially free from tributylmethyl ammonium, butyl-3-methylimidazolium octylsulfate, butyl-3-methylimidazolium acetate, ethyl-3-methylimidazolium ethylsulfate, 1,3-ethylimidazolium acetate, and combinations thereof.
[0020] In other embodiments, the disclosure proposes a hair refreshing composition comprising a color toning system including at least one purple direct dye, and an acid bond restoration base, wherein in the color toning system, one or more purple direct dyes are present from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair toning composition, and the acid bond restoration base comprises (a) at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, and combinations thereof present from approximately 4% to approximately 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair toning composition, (b) one or more additional surfactants, (c) at least one ester comprising coco-caprylate / caprate present from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5% by weight,relative to the total weight of the hair-shading composition, (d) at least one cationic compound selected from the group consisting of polysaccharide-based cationic compounds, silicone cationic compounds, and combinations thereof, (e) at least one additional surfactant selected from nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and comprising (i) at least one nonionic surfactant comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside present from approximately 7% to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair-shading composition, and (ii) at least one amphoteric surfactant present from approximately 0.01% to approximately 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair-shading composition, (f) at least one emulsifier, and (g) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water.
[0021] In still other embodiments, the disclosure proposes a hair refreshing process. The process comprises: contacting the hair with a composition comprising a color-shaping system including at least one direct dye, and an acid-bonding restoration base, wherein in the color-shaping system each of the one or more direct dyes is present from approximately 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, and the acid-bonding restoration base comprises at least one anionic surfactant including an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester including coco-caprylate / caprate, at least one cationic compound, at least one additional surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and their combinations, and at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier including water, in which the hair has been pre-dyed or pre-lightened.
[0022] In some embodiments, the hair is blonde and has been pre-lightened to a level of enhancement of 7.
[0023] In still other embodiments, the disclosure proposes a method for modifying the appearance of hair, the method comprising: (a) providing at least one hair refreshing composition for neutralizing or shading and bonding colored hair, said composition comprising (i) a color shading system comprising at least one direct purple dye and (ii) an acid bond restoration base comprising at least one anionic surfactant including an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester including coco-caprylate / caprate, at least one cationic compound, at least one additional surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and combinations thereof, and water; (b) contacting the hair with the composition in (a) to form treated hair;and (c) rinsing treated hair, wherein at least one hair refreshing composition includes at least one direct purple-tone dye at a concentration chosen to achieve the cosmetic shade effect desired by a consumer with a processing time of approximately 5 minutes, and wherein at least one hair refreshing composition demonstrates stability.
[0024] In some embodiments, the process further includes at least one color treatment step prior to the provision of at least one hair refreshing composition, in which the hair is dyed or lightened.
[0025] In some embodiments, the hair is blond and in which the direct dye of violet tone is present in the hair refreshing composition from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0026] [Fig.1] The [Fig.1] is a photographic image showing strands of hair treated with control, comparative and inventive compositions according to the disclosure.
[0027] The detailed description set forth above in relation to the accompanying drawings, where similar numbers refer to similar elements, is understood as a description of various embodiments of the disclosed subject matter and is not intended to represent the only embodiments. Each embodiment described in this disclosure is provided merely by way of example or illustration and should not be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments. implementation. The illustrative examples provided here are not intended to be exhaustive nor to limit disclosure to the exact forms disclosed.
[0028] It has been discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the combination of an acid-bonding repairing base and a color-shading system provides a stable and aesthetically pleasing hair-shading and restoring refresh composition that offers the dual benefits of restoring hair texture by repairing damaged or broken bonds and shading and / or neutralizing hair color, particularly in lightened or highlighted blonde hair. The refresh compositions offer a remarkably rapid treatment of approximately 5 minutes to deliver the dual benefits of restoration and neutralization. Furthermore, the composition demonstrates stability of the coloring effect and composition, including raw tone and viscosity, over time and across a wide temperature range for up to at least 8 weeks or more.
[0029] The hair refreshing composition can be included in a rinse-off skin or hair composition, such as, for example, a rinse-off skin cleanser or a shampoo composition. The hair refreshing composition, in which the color-shaping system includes a direct violet-toned dye, and the process are particularly useful for blond hair tones and especially following color-lightening treatments. According to certain exemplary embodiments, the color-shaping system is particularly useful for providing violet toning and optionally violet coloring to compensate for brassy yellow undertones, thus imparting a more natural hair color or a more vibrant violet-toned hair color, depending on the consumer's preference.According to certain embodiments given by way of example, the hair refreshing composition may have a raw tone that is violet.
[0030] According to various embodiments, the disclosure proposes a hair refreshing composition comprising a color toning system including at least one direct dye, and an acid bond restoring base, in which the acid bond restoring base includes at least one anionic surfactant including an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester including coco-caprylate / caprate, at least one cationic compound, at least one additional surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and their combinations, and a cosmetically acceptable solvent including water.
[0031] In certain embodiments, one or more direct dyes are present in the hair refreshing composition from approximately 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the refreshing composition. hair. In certain specific embodiments, one or more direct dyes include a violet-toned direct dye. In certain specific embodiments, the violet-toned direct dye consists of the EXT. VIOLET 2 direct dye present in the hair refreshing composition at a concentration of approximately 0.5% to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0032] According to some embodiments, the hair refreshing composition includes direct color dyes for violet tones which are supplied at various concentrations which achieve the cosmetic shade effect desired by the consumer with a processing time of about 5 minutes and which demonstrates stability.
[0033] In certain embodiments, the inventive compositions are provided with a concentration that can be chosen from at least two different concentrations of the EXT. VIOLET 2 direct dye present in the hair refreshing composition of about 0.5% to 1.0%, in which, at one concentration, the hair can be neutralized to obtain a generally natural tone of the user, while at another concentration, the hair can be toned to obtain a violet shade tone that is not generally the user's natural tone.
[0034] The acid bond repair base according to the disclosure may be a rinse-off composition such as a skin cleansing composition or a shampoo composition. Therefore, the acid bond repair base comprises components that are traditional or useful for repairing bonds and restoring the desirable properties of hair damaged by coloring and lightening processes, and, in addition to the repairing and restoring components, also includes components traditionally found in rinse-off compositions.
[0035] The inventors have proposed a composition that confers surprisingly effective benefits, including the dual benefits of restoring hair texture by repairing damaged or broken bonds and toning and / or neutralizing hair color, particularly in lightened or color-enhanced blonde hair, in a formulation that is physically stable, as demonstrated by viscosity retention during formulation and over time, and chemically stable, as demonstrated by raw tone retention over time and retention of the toning / neutralizing efficacy of the brassy appearance. With reference to the inventive and comparative compositions shown in the examples here, the comparative compositions are inferior to the inventive hair refreshing composition because, when tested, they demonstrate a or Several of the following failures: demonstrate chemical instability as evidenced by insufficient tone neutralization of the brassy appearance when applied to blonde hair, indicating that the effectiveness of the color-shading system is diminished; demonstrate chemical instability as evidenced by a crude tone change over time, indicating a change in the chemistry of the color-shading system; demonstrate physical instability as evidenced by a decrease in viscosity or a "breakdown" of the formulation structure; and combinations thereof.
[0036] The following terms are used here to describe inventive compositions.
[0037] As used here, the term "keratinous substrate" is intended to include skin and hair.
[0038] The hair-refreshing composition described throughout this disclosure may be a rinse-off composition. As used herein, the term "rinse-off" refers to a composition that is applied to the skin, hair, and / or scalp and then rinsed off, optionally after a period such as approximately 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 20 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, or approximately one hour. In contrast, the term "leave-in" refers to a composition that is applied and is not removed by wiping or rinsing with water. According to some embodiments, the inventive hair-refreshing composition is applied and then rinsed off after approximately 5 minutes.
[0039] The term “physically stable” as used in reference to the structural or solubility state of the ingredients of the hair refreshing composition means that the hair refreshing composition lacks separation, thinning or breakage of its viscosity and an overall absence of any crystal formation visible to the naked eye (although it may be aided by conventional corrective glasses or contact lenses or low magnification), over a period of time, for example immediately after mixing the composition, or for longer periods of time, such as for one, two or four or five days, or for a period of one or more weeks, and for example up to eight (8) weeks, and at a temperature of about 25 °C to about 37 °C, and after freeze-thaw cycles from -20 °C to 20 °C.The term "stable" as used in reference to the pH of the hair-refreshing composition means that the pH does not increase appreciably over time, for example as described in the examples here. In general, the pH of the inventive compositions is usually in the range of 5 to about 6, and in some particular embodiments of about 5.2 to about 6, and in some embodiments of about 5.6 + / - 0.3. The term "chemically stable", as used in reference to the refresh composition, means that the raw tone does not change appreciably over time and that the effectiveness of the color-shading system is not diminished over time, according to the viewing, time and ambient conditions identified above.
[0040] The term "raw tone", as used here, refers to the visually perceptible colouring (without the aid of a microscope or specialized equipment, but with or without the aid of corrective lenses or ordinary contacts) of a composition.
[0041] The term "lifting level" as used herein refers to a standard generally understood in the keratinous tissue coloring industry to reflect the level of lightening achieved by a lifting or bleaching composition. As used here in reference to the exemplified test compositions, the lifting level employed is "level 7," commonly associated with lightening blonde hair to a platinum blonde level.
[0042] The term "undertone" as used here refers to the typically undesirable natural color tone of hair after a lightening process. In blondes, this natural undertone is usually yellow to orange or brown.
[0043] The term "overtone" as used here refers to the amount of pigment taken from a hair treatment composition. In contrast, the term "neutralization" means that the hair tone resulting after contact with the inventive composition leads to the neutralization of the brassy undertone exposed during the bleaching process, and the hair appears as if it were a natural shade. The term "toning" means that the hair tone resulting after contact with the inventive composition leads to the toning of the brassy undertone exposed during the bleaching process to achieve a shade desired by the consumer, although the resulting shade is not necessarily a natural shade in itself.Generally, toning and neutralizing can sometimes be mentioned interchangeably, which collectively means that the use of the inventive hair refreshing composition provides a tonal adjustment to treat the undertone revealed by lightening.
[0044] The term “refreshing”, as used here, refers to achieving excellent restorative properties which include hydration, detangling, shine and smoothness of the hair while providing a toning or neutralization of the brassy appearance to enable the consumer to achieve the desired color and brightness. COLOR SHADING SYSTEM
[0045] According to the disclosure, various non-limiting embodiments of the hair refreshing composition include a color-shading system that comprises at least one direct dye. Direct dyes
[0046] According to the disclosure, various non-limiting embodiments of the hair refreshing composition include one or more direct dyes present in the color shading system.
[0047] Examples of suitable direct dyes include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes; and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. Direct dyes may be selected from cationic and anionic direct dyes.
[0048] Les teintures cationiques peuvent inclure Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green, Basic Orange 31,1, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12 Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76 Basic Red 51, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57 et Basic Yellow 87.
[0049] Les teintures anioniques peuvent inclure Acid Black 1, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Violet 2 (Ext Violet 2), D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Red 2, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 et Disperse Violet 1 et leurs sels de métal alcalin tels que le sodium et / ou le potassium.
[0050] Les teintures nitro peuvent inclure HC Blue No. 2, HC Blue No. 4, HC Blue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HC Blue No. 7, HC Blue No. 8, HC Blue No. 9, HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No. 11, HC Blue No. 12, HC Blue No. 15, HC Blue No. 17, HC Brown No. 1, HC Brown No. 2, HC Green No. 1, HC Orange No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HC Orange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No. 7, HC Red No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, HC Red No. 13, HC Red No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No. 1, HC Violet No. 2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 5, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 8, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Yellow No. 10, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Yellow No. 13, HC Yellow No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophénol, acide picramique, l,2-Diamino-4-nitrobenzol, 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-aminophénol, l-Hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzol et acide 2-hydroxyéthylpicramique.
[0051] According to the various embodiments, as exemplified herein, at least one direct dye according to the invention is selected from among the violet dyes and is chosen from the group consisting of Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, D&C Violet 2 (Ext. Violet 2), Disperse Violet 1, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No. 1, HC Violet No. 2, and their combinations. The violet dyes are chosen in particular for use with blonde hair, especially lightened or highlighted blonde hair, although they can be chosen for other hair types and colors.
[0052] In certain specific embodiments, at least one direct dye is D&C Violet 2 (Ext. Violet 2). Ext. (external) Violet 2, also known as CI 60730, is a synthetic dye, sometimes referred to generally as an anthraquinone color, which is used as a color additive in the formulation of a wide variety of products. Ext. in its name means that it is used only for external applications. In certain embodiments, Ext. Violet 2 imparts color to cosmetics and personal care products and is subject to certification by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Ext. Violet 2, alone or in combination with other ingredients.
[0053] In general, color additives are classified as pure colorants, lakes, and mixtures. Pure colors are color additives that have not been mixed or chemically reacted with any other substance. Ext. Violet 2 is a pure color. Synonyms for Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 include: CI 60730, M-TOLUENESULFONIC ACID 6-((4-HYDROXY-1-ANTHRAQUINONYL)AMINO)-MONOSODIUM SALT, BENZENESULFONIC ACID, 2[(9,10DIHYDRO4HYDROXY9,10DIOXO1ANTHRACENYL)AMINO]5 METHYL MONOSODIUM SALT, EXT. VIOLET 2, m-TOLUENESULFONIC ACID, 6-((4-HYDROXY-1-ANTHRAQUINONYL)AMINO)-MONOSODIUM SALT, m-TOLUENESULFONIC ACID MONOSODIUM SALT, 6-((4-HYDROXY-1-ANTHRAQUINONYL)AMINO) ACID), MURASAKI401 and 4-[(9,10-DIHYDRO-4-HYDROXY-9,10-DIOXO-1-ANTHRYL)AMINO]TOLUENE-3-SULFONATE SODIUM.
[0054] The chemical formula is shown below:
[0055] Ext. Violet 2
[0056] In certain specific embodiments, at least one direct dye excludes other dyes that are not violet dyes. In certain specific embodiments, at least one direct dye excludes other violet dyes except Ext. Violet 2. In certain specific embodiments, at least one direct dye excludes other violet dyes selected from the group consisting of HC VIOLET NO. 2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC RED 51 and their combinations. In certain specific embodiments, at least one direct dye excludes each of HC VIOLET NO. 2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, and BASIC RED 51.
[0057] In certain particular embodiments, the direct purple dye consists of the direct dye EXT. VIOLET 2 present in the hair refreshing composition at approximately 0.5% to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0058] In certain embodiments, the inventive compositions are provided with a concentration that can be chosen from at least two different concentrations of the EXT. VIOLET 2 direct dye present in the hair refreshing composition of about 0.5% to 1.0%, in which, at one concentration, the hair can be neutralized to obtain a generally natural tone of the user, while at another concentration, the hair can be toned to obtain a violet shade tone that is not generally the user's natural tone.
[0059] More generally, the total amount of direct dye in the hair refreshing composition can vary but is usually about 0.0001% to 10% by weight and, for example, 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one direct dye is present in an amount of about 0.005% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some cases, the total quantity of direct dye may be from about 0.001 to about 8 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.001 to about 6 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.001 to about 5 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.001 to about 4 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.001 to about 3 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.01 to about 10 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.01 to about 8 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.01 to about 6 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0.01 to about 5 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from about 0,0.1 to approximately 4 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from approximately 0.01 to approximately 3 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 8 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, or approximately 0.1 to approximately 5 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, or approximately 0.1 to approximately 3 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. ACID BOND RESTORATION BASE
[0060] According to the disclosure, various non-limiting embodiments of the hair refreshing composition include an acid bond restoring base comprising at least one anionic surfactant including an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester including coco-caprylate / caprate; at least one cationic compound; at least one additional surfactant selected from nonionic and amphoteric surfactants; and water. Anionic surfactant
[0061] The acid bond restoration base comprises at least one first anionic surfactant selected from isethionate surfactants. According to various embodiments, the at least one isethionate surfactant may be selected from the acyl isethionates of the following formulas (I) or (II): (I)
[0062] wherein R is selected from H or an alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 20 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and M+ is a cation. Although sodium is shown as the cation in formula (II), it should be understood that the cation for both formulas (I) and formula (II) can be any alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium.
[0063] By way of non-limiting example, suitable acyl isethionate surfactants may include the reaction product of fatty acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide. For example, acyl isethionate surfactants may be prepared by reacting an isethionate salt, such as a metal or ammonium isethionate, with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl fatty acid having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Optionally, a mixture of aliphatic fatty acids may be used for the preparation of commercial fatty acyl isethionate surfactants. Suitable fatty acids for isethionate surfactants can be derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil, for example.
[0064] Non-limiting examples of acyl isethionate surfactants that may be used include sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium oleoyl methyl isethionate, sodium stearoyl isethionate, sodium stearoyl methyl isethionate, sodium myristoyl isethionate, sodium myristoyl methyl isethionate, sodium palmitoyl isethionate, sodium palmitoyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate, a mixture of stearic acid and sodium cocoyl isethionate, ammonium cocoyl isethionate, ammonium cocoyl methyl isethionate, and combinations thereof.
[0065] The total amount of isethionate surfactants can be up to about 15%, such as about 4% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. For example, the total amount of isethionate surfactants can range from approximately 4% to approximately 14%, approximately 4% to approximately 13%, approximately 4% to approximately 12%, approximately 4% to approximately 11%, approximately 4% to approximately 10%, approximately 4% to approximately 9%, approximately 4% to approximately 8%, approximately 4% to approximately 7%, approximately 4% to approximately 6%, approximately 5% to approximately 15%, approximately 5% to approximately 14%, approximately 5% to approximately 13%, approximately 5% to approximately 12%, approximately 5% to approximately 11%, approximately 5% to approximately 10%, approximately 5% to approximately 9%, approximately 5% to approximately 8%, approximately 5% to approximately 7%, approximately 6% to approximately 15%, approximately 6% to approximately 14%, approximately 6% to approximately 13%, approximately 6% to approximately 12%, approximately 6% to approximately 11%, approximately 6% to approximately 10%, approximately 6% to approximately 9%, approximately 6% to approximately 8%, approximately 7% to approximately 15%, approximately 7% to approximately 14%, approximately 7% to approximately 13%, approximately 7% to approximately 12%, approximately 7% to approximately 11%, approximately 7% to approximately 10%, approximately 7% to approximately 9%, approximately 8% to approximately 15%, approximately 8% to approximately 14%, approximately 8% to approximately 13%, approximately 8% to approximately 12%, approximately 8% to approximately 11%, approximately 8% to approximately 10%, approximately 9% to approximately 15%, approximately 9% to approximately 14%, approximately 9% to approximately 13%, approximately 9% to approximately 12%, approximately 9% to approximately 11%, approximately 10% to approximately 15%, approximately 10% to approximately 14%, approximately 10% to approximately 13%, approximately 10% to approximately 12%, approximately 11% to approximately 15% about 11% to about 14%, about 1% to about 13%, about 12% to about 15%, about 12% to about 14%, or about 13% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0066] In various embodiments, the total amount of isethionate surfactants may range from approximately 90% to approximately 99.9% by weight, relative to the weight of the acid-bonding base. For example, the total amount of isethionate surfactants may range from approximately 91% to approximately 99%, such as approximately 92% to approximately 98%, approximately 93% to approximately 97%, or approximately 94% to approximately 96%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight relative to the weight of the acid-bonding base. In various embodiments, the total amount of isethionate surfactants may be approximately 90%, approximately 91%, approximately 92%, approximately 93%, approximately 94%, approximately 95%, approximately 96%, approximately 97%, approximately 98%, or approximately 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the acid-bonding base. Additional anionic surfactants
[0067] The hair-refreshing composition may optionally include at least one or more additional anionic surfactants, in addition to the one or more isethionates of the acid-bonding base. The combination of the one or more isethionates with the second anionic surfactant(s) constitutes the anionic surfactant system. As used herein, "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from among the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, O2PO2H, O2PO2H, and O2PO22.
[0068] When present, at least one second anionic surfactant may be chosen from among non-sulfate or sulfate-based anionic surfactants.
[0069] In one embodiment, the hair-refreshing composition is free or substantially free of sulfate-based surfactants. If present, the anionic sulfate-based surfactants may be selected from, by For example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the surfactant may be selected from (C6-C24) alkyl sulfates, (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfates, which are optionally ethoxylated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and combinations thereof, particularly in the form of alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts. More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) is / are selected from (C10-C20) alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate, optionally containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.In other embodiments, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, or combinations thereof may be chosen.
[0070] In various exemplary embodiments, the anionic surfactant system comprises at least one second anionic surfactant selected from non-sulfate anionic surfactants, such as, for example, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids and alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts;or the unsalted forms of each of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0071] Useful alkyl sulfonates include those of formula (VI): “(VI)
[0072] wherein R is selected from H or an alkyl chain having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. It should be noted that although sodium is shown as the cation in formula (VI) above, the cation may be any alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. In some cases, the alkyl sulfonate(s) are chosen from C8-C16 alkylbenzene sulfonates, C10-C20 paraffin sulfonates, C10-C24 olefin sulfonates, their salts and combinations.
[0073] By way of non-limiting example, alkyl sulfonates may be selected from alkyl aryl sulfonates, primary alkane disulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates, alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkylphenol polyglycol ether sulfonates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, phenylalkanesulfonates, alpha olefin sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates and disulfonates, secondary alkane sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, ester sulfonates, sulfonated fatty acid esters and methyl esters of sulfonated alpha-sulfo fatty acids including methyl ester sulfonate.
[0074] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl sulfosuccinates include those of formula (VII): SGW O O (VII)
[0075] wherein R is a linear or branched chain alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and M is a cation which can be independently of each other, for example, any alkali metal ion such as sodium, potassium or ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanol or triethanolammonium ions.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfosuccinate salts include oleamido MIPA disodium sulfosuccinate, oleamido MEA disodium sulfosuccinate, lauryl sulfosuccinate disodium, laureth sulfosuccinate disodium, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, diammonium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, oleamide MEA disodium sulfosuccinate, sodium dialkyl sulfosuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Exemplary, but not limiting, alkyl sulfoacetates include C4-C18 fatty alcohol sulfoacetates and / or salts thereof, such as sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. Useful cations for the salts include any alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium ions, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0078] Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated monoacids include the compounds corresponding to formula (VIII): RO[CH2O]U[(CH2)XCH(R') (CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]wCH2-COOH (VIII)
[0079] in which:
[0080] R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from about 6 to about 40 carbon atoms;
[0081] u, v and w, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 60;
[0082] x, y and z, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 13;
[0083] R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl; and
[0084] the sum of x+y+z>0.
[0085] The compounds corresponding to formula (VIII) can be obtained by alkoxylation of R-OH alcohols with ethylene oxide as the sole alkoxide, or with several alkoxides, followed by further oxidation. The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. While at the molecular level, the numbers u, v, and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, at the macroscopic level they are average values in the form of fractional numbers.
[0086] In formula (VIII), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted. R may be a linear or branched C6-40 alkyl or alkenyl group, or a Cl-40 alkyl phenyl group, for example a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkyl group, such as a C12-18 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C6-16 phenyl group; u, v, w, independently of each other, may be a number from 2 to 20, for example a number from 3 to 17, such as a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of each other, can be a number from 2 to 13, for example a number from 1 to 10, such as a number from 0 to 8.
[0087] By way of example only, useful alkoxylated monoacids include 5-butoxynol carboxylic acid, 19-butoxynol carboxylic acid, 4-capryleth carboxylic acid, 6-capryleth carboxylic acid, 9-capryleth carboxylic acid, 25-ceteareth carboxylic acid, 7-coceth carboxylic acid, 6-pareth carboxylic acid C9-11, 7-pareth carboxylic acid Cl 1-15, 5-pareth carboxylic acid C12-13, 8-pareth carboxylic acid C12-13, 12-pareth carboxylic acid, 7-pareth carboxylic acid C12-15, 8-pareth carboxylic acid C12-15, 8-pareth carboxylic acid C14-15, deceth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-3 carboxylic acid, laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-12 carboxylic acid, laureth-13 carboxylic acid, laureth-14 carboxylic acid, laureth-17 carboxylic acid,PPG-6-laureth-6 carboxylic acid, the acid, PPG-8-steareth-7 carboxylic acid, myreth-3 carboxylic acid, myreth-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-8 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-10 carboxylic acid, octeth-3 carboxylic acid, octoxynol-20 carboxylic acid, oleth-3 carboxylic acid, oleth-6 carboxylic acid, oleth-10 carboxylic acid, PPG-3-deceth-2 carboxylic acid, capryleth-2 carboxylic acid, ceteth-13 carboxylic acid, deceth-2 carboxylic acid, hexeth-4 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-6 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-11 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-6 carboxylic acid, trideceth-8 carboxylic acid, trideceth-12 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-4 carboxylic acid, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid, trideceth-15 carboxylic acid, trideceth-19 carboxylic acid, undeceth-5 carboxylic acid and their combinations.In some cases, preferred ethoxylated acids include oleth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, and their combinations.
[0088] The amino acid surfactants that can be used include, but are not limited to, amino acid surfactants based on alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, threonine, and taurine. The most common cation associated with the amino acid can be sodium or potassium. Alternatively, the cation can be an organic salt such as triethanolamine (TEA) or a metallic salt. Non-limiting examples of useful amino acid surfactants include those of formula (IX): | f (IX) X;---c —-X — CS --'CS; X'
[0089] wherein R, RI, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and X is COO or SO3.
[0090] By way of example, useful amino acyl acids include acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts and their combinations.
[0091] Examples of useful acyl taurates include those of formula (X):
[0092] wherein R is selected from H or an alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. It should be noted that although sodium is shown as the cation in the In formula (X) above, the cation can be any alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl taurate salts include sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and combinations thereof.
[0093] Examples of useful acyl glycinates include those of formula (XI): o (XI) 44
[0094] wherein R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. It should be noted that although sodium is shown as the cation in formula (XI) above, the cation may be any alkali metal ion such as sodium, potassium, or ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl glycinates include sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate, and combinations thereof.
[0095] Examples of useful acyl glutamates include those of formula (XII): | (XI1) Niî
[0096] in which R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. It should be noted that although sodium is shown as the cation in formula (XII) above, the cation may be any alkali metal ion such as sodium, potassium or ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.Non-limiting examples of acyl glutamates include dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and undecylenoyl glutamate. of sodium, triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, and their combinations.
[0097] Non-limiting examples of acyl sarcosinates include potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate and their combinations.
[0098] When the anionic surfactant(s) is / are in salt form, they may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, and preferably sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salts. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine salts; monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, or triisopropanolamine salts; 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts; 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts; and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, can be used.Examples of C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids include C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates, and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0099] The anionic surfactant system may be present in the hair refreshing composition in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. For example, the anionic surfactant system may be present in an amount ranging from approximately 5% to approximately 24%, approximately 5% to approximately 23%, approximately 5% to approximately 22%, approximately 5% to approximately 21%, approximately 5% to approximately 20%, approximately 6% to approximately 25%, approximately 6% to approximately 24%, approximately 6% to approximately 23%, approximately 6% to approximately 22%, approximately 6% to approximately 21%, approximately 6% to approximately 20%, approximately 7% to approximately 25%, approximately 7% to approximately 24%, approximately 7% to approximately 23%, approximately 8% to approximately 22%, approximately 8% to approximately 21%, approximately 8% to approximately 20%, from approximately 9% to approximately 25%, from approximately 9% to approximately 24%,from approximately 9% to approximately 23%, from approximately 9% to approximately 22%, from approximately 9% to approximately 21%, from approximately 9% to approximately 20%, from approximately 10% to approximately 25%, from approximately 10% to approximately 24%, from approximately 10% to approximately 23%, from approximately 10% to approximately 22%, from approximately 10% to approximately 21%, or from approximately 10% to approximately 20%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition.
[0100] The quantity of at least one second anionic surfactant, if present, shall be chosen such that the total anionic surfactant system is present in the hair refreshing composition in the quantities described above, taking into account the quantity of the first anionic surfactant chosen from among the isethionates. Ester containing coco-caprylate / caprate
[0101] The acid bond restoration base also comprises coco-caprylate, coco-caprate, or coco-caprylate / caprate, which is a mixture of coco-caprylate and coco-caprate (collectively referred to as "co-caprylate / caprate"). Coco-caprylate / caprate is an unbranched linear wax ester composed of C12-C18 coconut fatty alcohol and a mixture of fractionated fatty acids of vegetable origin. By way of non-limiting example, the DUB™ 810C coco-caprylate / caprate product from Stéarinerie Dubois may be used.
[0102] In various embodiments, the amount of coco-caprylate / caprate can be up to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. For example, coco-caprylate / caprate may be present in the hair refreshing composition in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.05% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.In various exemplary embodiments, the amount of coconut caprylate / caprate may be approximately 0.01%, approximately 0.02%, approximately 0.03%, approximately 0.04%, 0.05%, approximately 0.06%, approximately 0.07%, approximately 0.08%, approximately 0.09%, approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.6%, approximately 0.7%, approximately 0.8%, approximately 0.9%, approximately 1.0%, approximately 1.1%, approximately 1.2%, approximately 1.3%, approximately 1.4%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 1.6%, of about 1.7%, about 1.8%, about 1.9%, about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 3.0%, about 3.5%, about 4.0%, about 4.5% or about 5.0%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0103] In various embodiments, the total amount of coco-caprylate / caprate may range from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, by weight relative to the weight of the acid-binding restoration base. For example, the total amount of coco-caprylate / caprate may range from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, such as approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 1.75% to approximately 3.25%, or approximately 2% to approximately 3%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight relative to the weight of the acid-binding restoration base. In various embodiments, the total amount of coco-caprylate / caprate can be about 0.5%, about 0.75%, about 1%, about 1.25%, about 1.5%, about 1.75%, about 2%, about 2.25%, about 2.5%, about 2.75%, about 3%, about 3.25%, about 3.5%, about 3.75%, about 4%, about 4.25%, about 4.5%, about 4.75% or about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the acid bond restoration base. Cationic compound
[0104] The acid bond restoration base further comprises at least one cationic compound. Exemplary, but not limiting, cationic compounds include amine-based or quaternary ammonium-based cationic compounds, cellulose-based cationic compounds, starch-based cationic compounds, galactomannan-based cationic compounds, and silicone-based cationic compounds.
[0105] In various embodiments given by way of example, at least one cationic compound may be selected from amine-based or quaternary ammonium-based cationic compounds. By way of example, amine-based cationic compounds may be selected from fatty amines, such as those comprising at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, for example, a C12-C22 alkyl chain. By way of non-limiting example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine may be selected.
[0106] Quaternary ammonium-based cationic compounds may be selected from, for example, quaternary ammonium salts, such as compounds of formula (III): -Ss (III) | x-
[0107] in which:
[0108] (a) R8 to RI1, which may be identical or different, represent a group aliphatic, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R8 to RI1 comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
[0109] (b) X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Cl-C4)arylsulfonates.
[0110] Non-limiting examples of quaternary ammonium-based cationic compounds include tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyletrimethylammonium salts, distearyldimethylammonium salts, cetyltrimethylammonium salts or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or stearamidomethyldimethyl(myristyle acetate)ammonium salt, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and behentrimonium methosulfate.
[0111] In other embodiments, the cationic compound may be a cationic compound based on polysaccharides, for example, may be selected from cationic cellulosic derivatives such as those available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their POLYMER JR™ and LR™ polymer lines, in the form of hydroxyethylcellulose salts having reacted with substituted trimethylammonium epoxide (called Polyquaternium-10); polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with substituted lauryl dimethylammonium epoxide (called Polyquaternium-24), available from Amerchol Corp. under the trade name POLYMER LM-200; or Polyquatemium-67 (quatemized hydroxyethyl cellulose), such as the SOFTCAT® POLYMER SL 100 product sold by Dow Chemical.
[0112] Other examples of useful cationic Polyquaternium compounds according to disclosure include, but are not limited to, Polyquaternium-1 (ethanol, 2,2',2"-nitrilotris-, polymer with 1,4-dichloro-2-butene and N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-2-butene-1,4-diamine); Polyquaternium-2, (poly[bis(2-chloroethyl) ether-alt-1,3-bis[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]urea]); Polyquaternium-4, (copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and hydroxyethylcellulose); Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylammonium methacrylate); Polyquaternium-6 (poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride)); Polyquaternium-7 (acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer); Polyquaternium-8 (methacrylic acid methyl and stearyl dimethylaminoethyl ester copolymer, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate);Polyquaternium-9 (quaternized N,N-(dimethylamino)ethyl methacrylic acid ester homopolymer with bromomethane); Polyquaternium-11 (quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer); Polyquaternium-12 (quaternized ethyl methacrylate / abietyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate); Polyquaternium-13 (quaternized ethyl methacrylate / oleyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate);
[0113] Polyquaternium-14 (trimethylaminoethyl methacrylate homopolymer); Polyquaternium-15 (acrylamide methyl chloride and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer); Polyquaternium-16 (vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized vinylimidazole copolymer); Polyquaternium-17 (adipic acid, dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroethyl ether copolymer); Polyquaternium-18 (copolymer of azelanic acid, dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroethyl ether); Polyquaternium-19 (copolymer of polyvinyl alcohol and 2,3-epoxypropylamine); Polyquaternium-20 (copolymer of octadecyl polyvinyl ether and 2,3-epoxypropylamine); Polyquaternium-22 (copolymer of acrylic acid and diallyldimethylammonium chloride); Polyquaternium-27 (sequenced copolymer of Polyquaternium-2 and Polyquaternium-17); Polyquaternium-28 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium); Polyquaternium-29 (chitosan modified with propylene oxide and quaternized with epichlorohydrin); Polyquaternium-30 (ethanaminium, N-(carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-l-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)oxy]-, internal salt, polymer with methyl 2-methyl-2-propenoate); Polyquaternium-31 (N,N-dimethylaminopropyl-N-acrylamidine quaternized with diethyl sulfate linked to a polyacrylonitrile block); Polyquaternium-32 (poly(acrylamide 2-methacryloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride)); Polyquaternium-33 (copolymer of trimethylaminoethylacrylate salt and acrylamide); Polyquaternium-34 (copolymer of 1,3-dibromopropane and N,N-diethyl-N',N'-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine); Polyquaternium-35 (methosulfate of the copolymer of methacryloyl-oxyethyltrimethylammonium and methacryloyloxyethyldimethylacetylammonium); Polyquaternium-36 (copolymer of N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate); Polyquaternium-37 (poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride); Polyquaternium-39 (terpolymer of acrylic acid, acrylamide, and diallyldimethylammonium chloride); Polyquaternium-42 (poly[oxyethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene (dimethylimino)ethylene] dichloride); Polyquaternium-43 (acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine copolymer);Polyquatemium-44 (3-Methyl-l-vinylimidazolium-N-vinylpyrrolidone methyl sulfate copolymer); Polyquatemium-45 (copolymer of (N-methyl-N-ethoxyglycine) methacrylate and N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate); Polyquaternium-46 (quaternized vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, and vinylimidazole terpolymer); Polyquaternium-47 (acrylic acid terpolymer, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate); and Polyquaternium-53 (acrylic acid / maptac / acrylamide terpolymer).
[0114] In other exemplary embodiments, the cationic compound may be selected from galactomannan cationic compounds, such as guar-based cationic compounds. For example, compounds such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups may be chosen. Useful guar gum cationic compounds, given by way of example and without limitation, are those designated hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, commercially available, for example, under the name JAGUAR® C13S, which exhibits a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity. Other useful exemplary and non-limiting materials include JAGUAR® C15, which has a moderate degree of substitution and low viscosity, JAGUAR® C17, and JAGUAR® Cl6, which is a hydroxypropyl cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups.Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride may also be commercially available, for example under the name N-HANCE CG13, from the Ashland company. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available under the name JAGUAR® 162, is also useful.
[0115] In still other embodiments, cationic silicone compounds, for example amino silicones, may be chosen. As used here, the term "amino silicone" refers to any polyaminosiloxane, for example, any polysiloxane comprising at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group. By way of example, compounds of formula (IV) may be chosen: (IV)
[0116] in which:
[0117] T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or alkyl radical in Cl-C8, and preferably methyl, or alkoxy radical in C1-C8, preferably methoxy;
[0118] a denotes the digit 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0;
[0119] b denotes 0 or 1, preferably 1;
[0120] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can go in particular from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it is possible that n designates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m designates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
[0121] RI is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2; N(R2)2; N(R2)3Q-; N+(R2)(H)2Q-; N+(R2)2HQ-; N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2Q-; and
[0122] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl radical, a benzyl radical or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; and
[0123] Q- represents a halide ion, for example fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0124] By way of example, trimethylsilylamodimethicone may be chosen.
[0125] In another example, cationic amino silicones can be chosen from those of formula (V): (V)
[0126] in which:
[0127] R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably CH3; a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or -OH;
[0128] A represents a linear or branched alkylene radical at C3-C8 and preferably at C3-C6; and
[0129] m and n are integers depending on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
[0130] In one embodiment, in formula (V), R, R', R", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical, A represents a C3 alkylene radical, and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000. Compounds of this type are called "aminodimethicones".
[0131] In another embodiment, in a formula (V), R, R', and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical. At least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical, and A represents a C3 alkylene radical. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio may be between 0.2:1 and 0.4:1, for example, 0.3:1. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between approximately 2000 and 106. In particular, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. For example, the product BELSIL® ADM 652 sold by Wacker may be chosen.
[0132] In another embodiment, in formula (V), R and R", which are different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical, R' represents a methyl radical, and A represents a C3 alkylene radical. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, for example, 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the average molecular weight of the compound is between approximately 2,000 and 200,000. In particular, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1,000, with the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1,000. For example, the product FLUID WR® 1300 sold by Wacker can be chosen.
[0133] In a further embodiment, in formula (V), R and R" represent a hydroxyl radical, R' represents a methyl radical, and A is a C4-C8 alkylene radical, preferably at C4. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between approximately 2000 and 106. In particular, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000. For example, Dow Corning's DC 28299 product may be chosen.
[0134] At least one cationic compound may be present in the hair refreshing composition in an amount of up to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. For example, at least one cationic compound may be present in the hair refreshing composition in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 5% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.In various exemplary embodiments, the amount of at least one cationic compound may be approximately 0.05%, approximately 0.06%, approximately 0.07%, approximately 0.08%, approximately 0.09%, approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.6%, approximately 0.7%, approximately 0.8%, approximately 0.9%, approximately 1.0%, approximately 1.1%, approximately 1.2%, approximately 1.3%, approximately 1.4%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 1.6%, approximately 1.7%, approximately 1.8%, approximately 1.9%, approximately 2.0%, approximately 2.1%, approximately 2.2%, approximately 2.3%, approximately 2.4%, approximately 2.5%, approximately 3.0%, approximately 3.5%, approximately 4.0%, approximately 4.5%, or approximately 5.0%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0135] In various embodiments, the total amount of the cationic compound may range from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight relative to the weight of the acid-bonding restoring base. For example, the total amount of the polysaccharide-based cationic compound may range from about 1% to about 4%, such as about 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 1.75% to approximately 3.25%, approximately 1.75% to approximately 2.75%, or approximately 2% to approximately 3%, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, by weight relative to the weight of the acid bond-restoring base. In various embodiments, the total amount of the cationic compound may be approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.75%, approximately 1%, approximately 1.25%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 1.75%, approximately 2%, approximately 2.25%, approximately 2.5%, approximately 2.75%, approximately 3%, approximately 3.25%, approximately 3.5%, approximately 3.75%, approximately 4%, approximately 4.25%, approximately 4.5%, approximately 4.75%, or approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the acid bond-restoring composition. Additional surfactants
[0136] Optionally, the hair-refreshing composition may include other surfactants in addition to those of the anionic surfactant system. By way of example, the hair-refreshing composition may include non-ionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.
[0137] As exemplary and non-limiting non-ionic surfactants, alkyl polyglucosides and / or monounsaturated glyceryl esters may be chosen.
[0138] In certain embodiments, the hair refreshing composition comprises at least one alkylpolyglucoside corresponding to the following formula (XIII):
[0139] R 1 -O-(R 2 O) n -Z(x) (XIII)
[0140] in which:
[0141] R1 is an alkyl group comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0142] R2 is an ethylene or propylene group;
[0143] Z is a saccharide group of 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0144] n is an integer from 0 to 10; and
[0145] x is an integer from 1 to 5.
[0146] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. In some embodiments, at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, and combinations thereof.
[0147] The total amount of alkyl polyglucosides in the hair refreshing composition may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as about 0.1% to about 15%, or about 1% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. For example, the total amount of alkyl polyglucosides may range from about 5% to about 15%, from about 6% to about 14%, from about 7% to about 13%, from about 7% to about 12%, from about 8% to about 12%, from about 9% to about 12%, or about 10% to approximately 12%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. In various non-limiting embodiments, the total amount of alkyl polyglucosides is approximately 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, or 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0148] In some cases, the hair refreshing composition may include monounsaturated glyceryl esters such as, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, at least one monounsaturated glyceryl ester may be selected from polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, or combinations thereof.
[0149] Optionally, the hair-refreshing composition may further include at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants include betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, amphopropionates, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, betaines and amphopropionates are used. Betaines that may be used in these compositions include those conforming to the following formulas (XIV)-(XVII): CHb (XIV) I 6¾ (XV) ch3 I Rio -N+- (CH2)n- S03 I ch3 (XVI) ch3 I R10 _ c - N - (CH2)n— N+-CH2COO II OH CH (XVII)
[0150] in formulas (XIV)-(XVII):
[0151] RIO is an alkyl group comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms; and
[0152] n is an integer from 1 to 3.
[0153] Non-limiting examples of betaines include coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, lauryl hydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryl dimethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, at least one betaine compound may be selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and combinations thereof.
[0154] Hydroxyl sultaines useful in hair refreshing compositions according to disclosure embodiments include the following formula (XVIII): (XVIII)
[0155] in which R is an alkyl group comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0156] Useful alkylamphoacetates include those conforming to formula (XIX): (X,X) OH oo A r. il , * RR NH 'O Na
[0157] in which R is an alkyl group comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0158] Useful alkyl amphodiacetates include those conforming to the formula (XX): (XX)
[0159] in which R is an alkyl group comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0160] The amphoteric surfactants of this disclosure may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0161] In particular, we can mention (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido (Cr C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobétaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetate, and their combinations.
[0162] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, the products of the respective structures (Al) and (A2) below may also be mentioned:
[0163] (Al) Ra-CON(Z)CH 2 -(CH 2 ) m -N + (Rb)(Rc)(CH 2 COO-)
[0164] in which:
[0165] Ra represents a Ci0-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a Ra-COOH acid, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
[0166] Rb represents a [3-hydroxyethyl;
[0167] Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
[0168] m is equal to 0, 1 or 2, and
[0169] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
[0170] (A2) Ra'-CON(Z)CH 2 -(CH 2) m> -N(B)(B')
[0171] in which:
[0172] B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
[0173] B' represents -(CH2)Z-Y', z = 1 or 2, and Y' represents COOH, COOZ', CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z',
[0174] is equal to 0, 1 or 2,
[0175] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,
[0176] Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and
[0177] Ra' represents a CiO-C3O alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a Cp alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated Cp group.
[0178] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cacaomphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate, and sodium capryloamphoacetate. Additional exemplary amphoteric surfactants include disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0179] Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.
[0180] Compounds of formula (XXI) can also be used:
[0181] Ra”-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (XXI)
[0182] in which:
[0183] Ra" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil;
[0184] Y" represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z", Z" representing a cationic counter-ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
[0185] Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in Cr C4; and
[0186] n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer from 1 to 3.
[0187] Examples of compounds include sodium diethylaminopropylcoco-aspartamide, such as that sold by the Chimex company under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0188] In some embodiments, the amphoteric surfactants are selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetates and (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates, and their combinations.
[0189] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido (C1-C6)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and combinations thereof. In some cases, at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from coco-betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cacaomphoacetate, disodium cacaomphodiacetate, and combinations thereof.
[0190] The amphoteric surfactant may be present in an amount of up to about 10%, such as from about 0.001% to about 10%, or from about 0.001% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.For example, the amphoteric surfactant may be present in the hair refreshing composition in an amount ranging from approximately 0.001% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight, per ratio to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.In various exemplary embodiments, the amount of amphoteric surfactant may be approximately 0.01%, approximately 0.02%, approximately 0.03%, approximately 0.04%, approximately 0.05%, approximately 0.06%, approximately 0.07%, approximately 0.08%, approximately 0.09%, approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.6%, approximately 0.7%, approximately 0.8%, approximately 0.9%, approximately 1.0%, approximately 1.1%, approximately 1.2%, approximately 1.3%, approximately 1.4%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 1.6%, approximately 1.7%, approximately 1.8%, approximately 1.9%, approximately 2.0%, approximately 2.1%, approximately 2.2%, approximately 2.3%, approximately 2.4% %, approximately 2.5%, approximately 2.6%, approximately 2.7%, approximately 2.8%, approximately 2.9%, or approximately 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. Emulsifiers
[0191] The hair-refreshing composition according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more emulsifiers. In various embodiments, the emulsifiers may be selected from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, esters of polyols and a fatty acid, fatty esters of polyols, and fatty ethers with a branched or unsaturated chain containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, sugar esters and a fatty acid, and a mixture of these. Non-limiting examples of emulsifiers include ricinoleic acid, glyceryl monostearate, glycol distearate, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, or combinations thereof.
[0192] In certain particular embodiments, the hair refreshing composition may include one or more of glycol distearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-150 distearate and their combinations.
[0193] In certain embodiments, the hair-refreshing composition may comprise two or more emulsifiers. The amount of each of the at least one emulsifier, or a combination thereof, if present, may be in the hair-refreshing composition in a range of approximately 0.001% to approximately 20%, or approximately 0.01% to approximately 15%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, relative to the weight of the hair-refreshing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0194] Thus, one or more emulsifiers, if present, are present by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, of approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at approximately 20 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Cosmetically acceptable solvent
[0195] The hair-refreshing composition according to the disclosure comprises water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvents may be selected from organic solvents, water-soluble solvents, water, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvents include glycerin, propylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
[0196] The total amount of cosmetically acceptable solvent with water in the hair refreshing composition may vary, but is generally from about 25% to about 95%, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. In some cases, the total amount of water is from about 30% to about 90%, from about 35% to about 85%, from about 40% to about 75%, from about 45% to about 70%, or from about 50% to about 67%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition. Polymeric thickener
[0197] According to the disclosure, various non-limiting embodiments of the hair-refreshing composition may optionally include one or more polymeric thickeners. In some embodiments, the thickener(s) may be selected from one or more natural gums and synthetic polymers; for example, the thickener may be selected from the group consisting of starches (maize, rice, tapioca, potato) and gums (xanthan gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, sclerotium, tarabiotech fermentation).In some embodiments, the thickener may be selected from carbomer, beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer and polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar, ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum and combinations thereof.
[0198] In certain particular embodiments, the thickener may be selected from carbomer, beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer and their combinations.
[0199] In some embodiments, the polymeric thickener may be a carbomer, a beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, a C10-30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymer, a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum, xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum, xanthan gum (and) ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum (50 / 50), dehydroxanthan gum, 1'-hydroxypropyl starch, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum (75 / 25), sclerotium gum, xanthan gum (and) lecithin (and) pullulan, or combinations thereof.
[0200] In some embodiments, the hair refreshing composition may comprise two or more polymeric thickeners. The amount of each of the at least one polymeric thickener, if any, may be present in the hair refreshing composition in a range of about 0.001% to about 2%, or about 0.005% to about 1.5%, or about 0.0075% to about 0.2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the hair refreshing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0201] In certain embodiments, the total amount of polymeric thickener in the hair-refreshing composition, if present, is from about 0.001% to about 5%, or from about 0.007% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.3%, or from about 0.21% to about 0.29%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the hair-refreshing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0202] Thus, one or more polymeric thickeners, if present, are present by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, of approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 to approximately 5.0 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Conservatives
[0203] In accordance with the disclosure, various non-limiting embodiments of the hair refreshing composition may optionally include one or more preservatives and / or antimicrobials. Any preservative commonly used in cosmetic formulations is an acceptable preservative for the hair refreshing composition herein, such as phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, members of the paraben family such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or isobutyl parabens, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, triclosan, benzyl alcohol, chlorophenesin, or for example.
[0204] In some embodiments, the preservative may include salicylic acid, present from about 0.1% to about 0.5%.
[0205] In certain embodiments, the preservative may comprise one or more preservatives selected from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammonium compounds, alcohols, isothiazolinones, and combinations thereof. Preservatives having antibacterial activity are optionally present in the hair-refreshing composition of the present invention. Examples of organic acid preservatives Examples include, but are not limited to, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, and combinations thereof. A preferred organic acid preservative system comprises a mixture of sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate. Examples of paraben preservatives include, but are not limited to, alkyl para-hydroxybenzoates, in which the alkyl group has 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 carbon atoms, and, for example, 1 to 4 carbon atoms; for example, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and isobutylparaben.Examples of formaldehyde-donating preservatives include, but are not limited to, 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), imidazolidinyl urea, gluteraldehyde, and combinations thereof. Examples of quaternary ammonium preservatives include, but are not limited to, benzalconium chloride, metheneammonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, and combinations thereof. Examples of alcohol preservatives include, but are not limited to, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and combinations thereof. Examples of isothiazolone preservatives include, but are not limited to, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, and combinations thereof.
[0206] Other suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, chloroacetamide, triclosan and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, pyridine derivatives (e.g., pyrithione and zinc pyrithione), chlorphenesin, mercuric phenyl salts, phenoxyethanol and other known preservative systems.
[0207] In some embodiments, the preservative includes one or more preservatives, the preservative or combination present at a concentration, by weight, of about 0.001% to about 5%, or alternatively of about 0.05% to about 2.5% or by weight of about 0.1% to about 2.0%, relative to the weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0208] Thus, any one of the preservatives or a combination thereof, if present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, to about 5 weights, including intermediate increments and ranges. Additional components
[0209] In various embodiments, it may be advantageous to include additional components in the hair refreshing composition according to the Disclosure. By way of non-limiting example, it may be advantageous to include at least one carboxylic acid, such as at least one organic compound that includes one, two, three, or more carboxylic acid (-COOH) functional groups and at least one carbon atom. Examples of exemplary, non-limiting carboxylic acids may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, benzoic acid, and glyoxylic acid monohydrate, as well as combinations thereof.
[0210] If present, at least one carboxylic acid may be present in an amount of up to about 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the hair refreshing composition. For example, at least one carboxylic acid may be present in the hair refreshing composition in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.05% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 1%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.In various exemplary embodiments, the amount of at least one carboxylic acid may be approximately 0.05%, approximately 0.06%, approximately 0.07%, approximately 0.08%, approximately 0.09%, approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.6%, approximately 0.7%, approximately 0.8%, approximately 0.9%, approximately 1.0%, approximately 1.1%, approximately 1.2%, approximately 1.3%, approximately 1.4%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 1.6%, approximately 1.7%, approximately 1.8%, approximately 1.9%, approximately 2.0%, approximately 2.1%, approximately 2.2%, approximately 2.3%, approximately 2.4%, approximately 2.5%, approximately 3.0%, approximately 3.5%, approximately 4.0%, approximately 4.5%, or approximately 5.0%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0211] In other embodiments, the hair-refreshing composition may optionally include at least one ethanolamine compound. By way of example only, the hair-refreshing composition may include monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), or a mixture thereof. If present, the at least one ethanolamine may be present in an amount of up to approximately 2%, such as up to approximately 1.5%, up to approximately 1%, up to approximately 0.5%, or up to approximately 0.1% by weight, such as approximately 0.01%, relative to the total weight of the hair-refreshing composition. For example, ethanolamine may be present in the hair-refreshing composition in an amount ranging from approximately 0.001% to approximately 2%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.001% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.001% to about 0.5%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0212] The hair refreshing composition in certain embodiments may also optionally include stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
[0213] The hair refreshing composition according to the disclosure may also include other additives selected from pearlescent agents, dyes or pigments, perfumes, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, vitamins (e.g., panthenol, vitamin E, biotin, etc.), proteins, including ceramides, vitamins, UV-blocking agents, free radical scavengers, anti-dandruff agents, anti-hair loss agents, hair restorers, preservatives, and combinations thereof. A person skilled in the art shall take care to select the optional additives and their quantity so as not to adversely affect the properties of the hair refreshing composition of this disclosure.
[0214] In various embodiments, the additives are generally present in an amount of up to about 40% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, such as up to about 30%, up to about 20%, up to about 15%, up to about 10%, up to about 5%, such as from about 0.01% to about 20%.
[0215] In some embodiments, the hair-cooling composition is free or substantially free of silicones. For example, the hair-cooling composition may, in some embodiments, include less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1%, or less than about 0.5% silicones. In other embodiments, the hair-cooling composition includes silicones, for example, in an amount from about 0.1% to about 1%, such as up to about 2%, up to about 3%, up to about 4%, or up to about 5%. Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine-functionalized silicones (e.g., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, etc.
[0216] In certain embodiments, the hair-refreshing composition is free from or substantially free from imidazolium compounds, ammonium compounds, and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments of For specific purposes, the hair refreshing composition is free or substantially free of tributylmethyl ammonium, butyl-3-methylimidazolium octylsulfate, butyl-3-methylimidazolium acetate, ethyl-3-methylimidazolium ethylsulfate, 1,3-ethylimidazolium acetate, and their combinations.
[0217] The hair refreshing composition according to the disclosure may be contained in a jar, tube, bottle optionally equipped with a pump or any suitable packaging. PREPARATION AND USE METHODS
[0218] The inventive hair refreshing composition is prepared by mixing the ingredients into which the direct dyes are introduced at the beginning of the batch, along with water to ensure complete solubilization of the dye. After batch formation, the viscosity was evaluated over time in accordance with industry-standard stability protocols to determine shelf-life stability based on viscosity stability. The viscosity was evaluated at the following times: 1 week, 4 weeks, and 8 weeks at 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C, and the resulting viscosity of the inventive composition is characterized as follows: Ford viscosity cup in a range of 50 to 80, rheomat viscosity at 25°C in a range of 20 to 28, the composition being considered stable if the change in viscosity is not greater than 5%, 10%, or 20%.
[0219] According to various embodiments, the hair-cooling composition can be useful in processes for treating and / or caring for the skin, hair, and / or scalp. For example, when the hair-cooling composition is a shampoo composition or a conditioning shampoo composition, the hair-cooling composition can be useful in processes for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair and / or scalp. When the hair-cooling composition is a skin-care or skin-cleansing composition, the hair-cooling composition can be useful in processes for cleansing and / or caring for the skin.
[0220] The hair refreshing composition according to the disclosure can be applied to the skin, hair, and / or scalp and then rinsed. For example, the skin, hair, and / or scalp can be washed or cleansed in a first step of applying the hair refreshing composition of the disclosure to the skin, hair, and / or scalp, followed by an optional second repeated washing step, each step including a processing time, for example, up to 10 minutes, up to 5 minutes, up to 2 minutes, up to 1 minute, up to 30 seconds, up to 20 seconds, up to 10 seconds, up to 5 seconds, etc., and concluding with rinsing the hair with water. In some embodiments given by way of example, the processing time for the hair refreshing composition of the Hair styling takes approximately 2 to approximately 5 minutes, and in some embodiments, at least 5 minutes.
[0221] The skin, hair and / or scalp treatment and / or care processes according to the disclosure can, in various embodiments, confer hydrating benefits to the skin, or revitalizing and manageable benefits to the hair, and a strengthened or improved tone with a reduction of the brassy appearance even after the hair styling composition is rinsed out.In addition, hair treated with the hair refreshing composition as disclosed may, in certain exemplary embodiments, have a toning and / or neutralization of the hair undertone desired by the consumer, particularly in lightened or color-enhanced blonde hair, and greater ease of detangling, greater smoothness, manageability without greasy coating or heaviness, a feeling of hydration, split end sealing and / or reduced static, may be silkier and / or may have greater frizz control, compared to hair not treated with a composition as disclosed.
[0222] It should be understood that various features and / or characteristics of different embodiments herein may be combined. It should therefore be understood that many modifications may be made to the illustrative embodiments and that other arrangements may be developed without departing from the scope of the disclosure. Other embodiments will become apparent to those skilled in the art by considering the disclosure and the practice of the various exemplary embodiments disclosed herein.
[0223] As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.
[0224] The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0225] Apart from the examples of operation, or unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", i.e., within + / - 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, or 1% of the stated number. Ranges may be expressed here as from "approximately" a particular value and / or to "approximately" another particular value. When such a range is expressed, examples include from the first particular value and / or to the other particular value. Similarly, when values are expressed as approximations, using the antecedent "approximately", it shall be understood that the particular value constitutes another aspect. It shall further be understood that the bounds of each of the ranges are significant both with respect to the other bound and independently of the other bound.
[0226] All percentages, parts and ratios stated herein are relative to the amount of active agent, based on the total weight of the hair refreshing composition of this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.
[0227] As used herein, all the ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate sub-ranges. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
[0228] As used herein, the terms "free" and "essentially free" and "exclude / exclude" are intended to indicate that the component is entirely absent from the hair-refreshing composition, or is present in an amount considered by those skilled in the art to have no effect on the hair-refreshing composition. For example, the component may be present in an amount below the detection level, or may be present in an amount of less than 3%, less than 2%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.01%, or less than 0.001%.
[0229] It should also be understood that the precise numerical values used in the specification and claims constitute further embodiments of the disclosure and are intended to include any range that can be reduced to any two bounds disclosed in the ranges and values given by way of example, as well as the specific bounds themselves. Efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the numerical values disclosed herein. However, any measured numerical value may inherently contain some errors resulting from the standard deviation found in its respective measurement technique.
[0230] The hair-refreshing composition and methods of the present invention may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, together with any additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
[0231] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process presented herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process claim does not expressly state that a specific order of steps must be followed, or where it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is to be inferred therefrom. EXAMPLES
[0232] The following examples are intended to illustrate the ways in which disclosure can be carried out, but are not intended to be exhaustive. The examples are not restrictive and explanatory statements only, the scope of the invention being defined by the claims. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients in the hair refreshing composition are given as percentages by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
[0233] EXAMPLE 1 - Bonding Rinse Base
[0234] A bonding rinse BASE formulation is illustrated in accordance with the The list of ingredients is shown in Table 1 for formulations A, B and C (e.g., shampoo form). Generally, the basic formulation includes a combination of an isethionate surfactant (e.g., one or more of sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate), coco-caprylate / caprate, a cationic compound (e.g., POLYQUATERNIUM 10 and / or 67, or cationic guar), optionally one or more nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants (e.g., one or more of glyceryl oleate, PEG-150 distearate, decyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, coco-betaine; cocoamidopropyl betaine), and a combination of thickeners (e.g., one or more of carbomer and methacrylate polymer) and one or more additional ingredients (e.g., pH adjuster, chelating agent, alcohol, antimicrobial / preservative, vitamins, perfume, etc.).The exemplified basic compositions are described in greater detail in patent publication US20210267868A1.
[0235] [Tables 1] NAME INCI US FORMULATI ON A FORMULATI ON B FORMULATI ONC GLYCOL DISTEARATE 0.105 0.12 0.12 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 11.44 - 11.66 SODIUM COCOYL ISET HIONATE 11 11 11.00 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 2.584 2.584 2.584 COCO-BETAINE 0.021 0.024 0.099 POLYQUATERNIUM-10 0.11 - POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0.2 0.2 0.20 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.68055 0.4812 0.5 PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE 0.4 0.4 0.40 PEG-150 DISTEARATE 1 0.5 0.5 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 0.38 0.2 0.20 TRIDECETH-6 and / or P PG-5-CETETH 20 - 0.215 0.515 CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE - 0.003 0.03 DECYL GLUCOSIDE - 11.66 GLYCERIN / PROPYL ENE GLYCOL - 0.75 1.15 DIMETHICONE - 0.75 0.75 AMODIMETHICONE - 0.171 0.17 CARBOMER and / or ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER - 0.271 0.365 ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS (one or more of: alcohol, 1.610 2.910 3.6 citric acid, perfume, panthenol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, sodium phytate) WATER QS (-67) QS (-67) QS (-67) pH 6.0 5.7 BASIC BONDING FORMULATION
[0236] In some embodiments, the basic formulations, for example formulation C, may include the following ingredients in total weight amounts of the composition which include: trideceth-6 and PPG-5-CETETH 20, present at approximately 0.015 and 0.5 respectively by weight of the composition; glycerin and propylene glycol, present at approximately 0.75 and 0.4 respectively by weight of the composition; carbomer and / or beheneth-25 acrylates / methacrylate copolymer present at approximately 0.29 and 0.75 respectively by weight of the composition; and alcohol, citric acid, perfume, panthenol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide and sodium phytate present in a range of approximately 0.003 to approximately 1.0 by weight of the composition.
[0237] The basic formulas provide a surprisingly dense, lush and creamy lather, with a viscosity that would be typical of a shampoo composition despite the inclusion of esters that would be expected to negatively affect the aesthetic properties of a shampoo.
[0238] When applied to wet hair, then lathered, rinsed, combed, dried, and styled, the formulations lather very well, coat the hair well, rinse easily, and provide superior ease of detangling of wet hair. Once the hair is dried and styled, it has excellent shine and frizz control, is moisturized but not greasy, demonstrates good manageability, shapeability, and discipline (e.g., no flyaways), and has smooth ends.
[0239] Using certain general features of the exemplified basic formulation, the inventive composition according to the present disclosure has been developed to confer in a one-step process both bonding and color refreshing.
[0240] EXAMPLE 2 – Inventive Composition
[0241] The inventive composition includes an acid bond restoration base generally as shown in Example 1, together with the color shading system useful for application on light blond hair where the direct dye is a violet dye comprising EXT. Violet 2.
[0242] [Tables2] INCI US NAME INVENTIVE 1 INVENTIVE 2 GLYCOL DISTEARATE 0.12 0.12 SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 11.0 11.0 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 2.584 2.584 COCO-BETAINE 0.099 0.099 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0.200 0.200 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.5 0.5 PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEA TE 0.4 0.4 PEG-150 DISTEARATE 0.5 0.5 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 0.2 0.2 TRIDECETH-6 and / or PPG-5-CETETH 20 0.515 0.515 CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.003 0.003 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 11.66 11.66 GLYCERIN / PROPYLENE GLYCOL 1.15 1.15 DIMETHICONE 0.75 0.75 AMODIMETHICONE 0.17 0.17 CARBOMER and / or ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE CO POLYMER 0.369 0.369 EXT. VIOLET 2 0.5 0.3 ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS (alcohol, citric acid, perfume, panthenol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, sodium phytate) 4.15 4.15 WATER QS (~66) QS (~66) pH 5.53 5.50 Properties Optimal tinting; stability demonstrated at the time of formulation and over time Moderate tinting; demonstrated stability at the time of formulation and over time up to at least 8 weeks of the time up to at least 8 weeks inventive composition
[0243] In certain embodiments, the inventive compositions may include the following ingredients in quantities by total weight of the composition, which include: trideceth-6 and PPG-5-CETETH 20, present at approximately 0.015 and 0.5 by weight respectively in relation to the weight of the composition; glycerin and propylene glycol, present at approximately 0.75 and 0.4 by weight respectively in relation to the weight of the composition; carbomer and / or acrylates / or beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer present at approximately 0.29 and 0.75 by weight respectively in relation to the weight of the composition; alcohol, citric acid, perfume, panthenol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide and sodium phytate present in a range of about 0.003 to about 1.0 by weight relative to the weight of the composition, e.g., respectively, 0.003, 1.0, 0.8, 1.0, 0.2, 0.5, 0.5, and 0.15 by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0244] With reference to [Fig. 1], a photographic image shows hair strands treated with control (untreated), comparative, and inventive compositions according to the disclosure. Thus, [Fig. 1] provides an example demonstrating the toning effectiveness of the above-mentioned inventive composition formulations as applied to and then rinsed from samples of hair strands that had previously been lightened to level 7. As shown, the two test strands to which respective embodiments of the inventive composition were applied demonstrate desirable neutralization and toning. Further observations of the formulations demonstrated physical and chemical stability based on satisfactory retention of the raw tone.
[0245] EXAMPLE 3 - Comparative compositions
[0246] Comparative compositions include an acid bond restoration base generally as shown in Example 1, and a color shading system which includes one or more direct dyes including violet, red and blue direct dyes to provide an overall raw violet tone.
[0247] [Tables3] NOM INCI US COMPARATIF 1 COMPARATIF 2 COMPARATIF 3 GLYCOL DISTEARA TE 0,12 0,12 0,12 SODIUM COCOYL I SETHIONATE 11,0 11,0 11,0 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 2,584 2,584 2,584 COCO-BETAINE 0,099 0,099 0,099 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0,200 0,2 0,2 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0,5 0,5 0,5 PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE 0,4 0,4 0,4 PEG-150 DISTEARA TE 0,5 0,5 0,5 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 0,2 0,2 0,2 TRIDECETH-6 et / ou P PG-5-CETETH 20 0,515 0,515 0,515 CETRIMONIUM CHL ORIDE 0,003 0,003 0,003 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 11,66 11,66 11,66 GLYCERIN / PROPYL ENE GLYCOL 1,15 1,15 1,15 DIMETHICONE 0,75 0,75 0,75 AMODIMETHICONE 0,17 0,17 0,17 CARBOMER et / ou ACRYLATES / BEHE NETH-25 METHAC RYLATE COPOLYME R 0,369 0,369 0,369 HC VIOLET NO. 2 0,1 BASIC VIOLET 2 0,30 HC BLUE NO. 2 0.30 BASIC RED 51 0.0008 ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS (alcohol, citric acid, perfume, panthenol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, sodium phytate) 3.95 WATER QS (-67) QS (-67) QS (-67) pH 5.58 5.55 5.49 Properties: insufficient tinting at 5 min; shift in raw tone over time. Tinting at 5 min; insufficient neutralization of brassy appearance; viscosity collapses over time. Tinting at 5 min; viscosity collapses over time. COMPARATIVE COMPOSITIONS
[0248] Comparative compositions include the following ingredients in amounts by total weight of the composition which include: trideceth-6 and PPG-5-CETETH 20, present at approximately 0.015 and 0.5 respectively by weight relative to the weight of the composition; glycerin and propylene glycol, present at approximately 0.75 and 0.4 respectively by weight relative to the weight of the composition; carbomer and / or beheneth-25 acrylates / methacrylate copolymer present at approximately 0.29 and 0.75 respectively by weight relative to the weight of the composition; alcohol, citric acid, parfum, panthenol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide and sodium phytate present in a range of approximately 0.0003 to approximately 1.0 by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0249] Referring again to [Fig. 1], the photographic image provides an example demonstrating the toning effectiveness of the comparative composition formulations described above as applied to and then rinsed from samples of hair strands that had previously been lightened to level 7. Based on the observations demonstrated and listed above, the comparative formulations are inferior to the inventive hair refreshing composition because, when tested, they demonstrate one or more of the following failures: chemical instability as evidenced by insufficient tone neutralization of the brassy appearance when applied to blond hair, indicating that the effectiveness of the color-shading system is diminished, in which comparative compositions 2 and 3 exemplified demonstrated over-shading after 5 minutes, meaning that the hair has absorbed too much direct dye to be acceptable to a consumer; chemical instability as evidenced by a crude tone change over time, indicating a change in the chemistry of the color-shaping system; physical instability as evidenced by a decrease in viscosity or a "breakdown" in the formulation structure; and combinations thereof.
Claims
Demands
1. Hair refreshing composition comprising a color toning system comprising at least one direct dye comprising a violet tone direct dye comprising the EXT. VIOLET 2 direct dye, and an acid bond restoring base, wherein the acid bond restoring base comprises at least one anionic compound comprising an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester comprising coco-caprylate / caprate, at least one cationic compound, at least one additional surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and combinations thereof, and water;
2. wherein the hair refreshing composition excludes HC VIOLET NO. 2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC RED 51 or combinations thereof. Hair refreshing composition according to claim 1, wherein the direct violet-tone dye is present in the hair refreshing composition from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition.
3. Hair refreshing composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one nonionic or amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides, monounsaturated glyceryl esters, betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, amphopropionates, and combinations thereof.
4. Hair refreshing composition according to claim 1, the composition further characterized by one or more features selected from (i) wherein at least one monounsaturated glyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and combinations thereof; (ii) wherein at least one cationic compound is selected from the group consisting of cationic amine compounds, quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic cellulose compounds, cationic starch compounds, cationic galactomannan compounds, cationic silicone compounds, and combinations thereof; (iii) wherein at least one additional surfactant comprises at least one nonionic surfactant comprising one or more alkyl polyglucosides selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and combinations thereof, or one or more monounsaturated glyceryl esters selected from the group consisting of glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl lactate stearate glyceryl citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, and their combinations;(iv) wherein at least one additional surfactant comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and combinations thereof;(v) wherein the composition comprises at least one emulsifier selected from the group consisting of ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, glycol distearate, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, methyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, distearate glyceryl, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-55 oleate, propylene glycol, and their combinations;(v) wherein the composition comprises at least one polymeric thickener selected from the group consisting of a carbomer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, Cl0-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate crosslinked polymer, acryloyldimethyltaurate crosslinked polymer; ammonium / steareth-25 methacrylate and polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar, ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum and combinations thereof; (vi) wherein the composition comprises at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of a pH adjuster, chelating agent, alcohol, antimicrobial, preservative, vitamin, perfume, humectant, emulsifiers and combinations thereof; (vii) wherein the hair-refreshing composition is free from or substantially free from imidazolium compounds, and combinations thereof (viii) or a combination thereof.
5. Hair refreshing composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one cationic compound selected from the group consisting of cationic guar, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-67, and combinations thereof.
6. Hair refreshing composition comprising a color toning system including at least one purple direct dye including the direct dye EXT. VIOLET 2, and an acid bond restoring base, wherein in the color toning system, one or more purple direct dyes are present from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, and the acid bond restoring base comprises (a) at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, and combinations thereof from approximately 4% to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair coating composition, (b) one or more surfactants, (c) at least one is an ester comprising coco-caprylate / caprate from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5% by weight,relative to the total weight of the hair-tinting composition, (d) at least one cationic compound selected from the group consisting of polysaccharide-based cationic compounds, silicone cationic compounds and combinations thereof, (e) at least one additional surfactant selected from nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and comprising (i) at least one nonionic surfactant comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside present from about 7% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of hair refreshing, and (ii) at least one amphoteric surfactant present from about 0.01% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair refreshing composition, (f) at least one emulsifier, and (g) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water; wherein the hair refreshing composition excludes HC VIOLET NO. 2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC RED 51 or combinations thereof.
7. Hair refreshing process comprising: contacting pre-lightened blond hair to a lift level of up to 7 with a composition comprising a color-shading system including at least one direct dye that includes a purple-tone direct dye including EXT.VIOLET 2, and an acid bond restoring base, wherein in the color-shading system each of the one or more direct dyes is present from about 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair-refreshing composition, and the acid bond restoring base comprises at least one anionic surfactant including an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester including coco-caprylate / caprate, at least one cationic compound, at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and their combinations, and at least one cosmetically acceptable surfactant including water, in which the hair has been pre-dyed or pre-lightened; and wherein the hair-refreshing composition excludes HC VIOLET NO. 2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC RED 51 or their combinations.
8. Hair appearance modification process, the process comprising: a. the provision of at least one hair refreshing composition for neutralizing or toning and bonding colored hair, said composition comprising (i) a color-shading system comprising at least one purple direct dye comprising the EXT. VIOLET 2 direct dye and (ii) an acid-bonding restoring base comprising at least one anionic surfactant comprising an isethionate surfactant, at least one ester comprising coco-caprylate / caprate, at least one compound cationic, at least one additional surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and their combinations, and water; b. contacting the hair with the composition in (a) to form treated hair; c. rinsing the treated hair; and d. optionally including at least one color treatment step prior to the provision of at least one hair refreshing composition, wherein the hair is dyed or lightened, wherein the at least one hair refreshing composition includes at least one direct purple tone dye present at a concentration selected to achieve the desired cosmetic shade effect for a consumer with a processing time of approximately 5 minutes, and wherein the at least one hair refreshing composition demonstrates stability; and wherein the hair refreshing composition excludes HC VIOLET NO.2, BASIC VIOLET 2, HC BLUE NO. 2, BASIC RED 51 or their combinations.
9. Process according to claim 8, wherein the hair is blond hair and wherein the direct dye of violet tone is EXT. VIOLET 2 present in the hair refreshing composition from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.