COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS
A composition with an oxidizing agent, oil, and branched hydrocarbon compound addresses the need for cationic polymer-free hair bleaching and coloring, enhancing hair feel and shine while minimizing lightening.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000533
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-01-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair bleaching and coloring compositions rely on cationic polymers, which are undesirable in recent years, necessitating a composition that can effectively bleach or color hair while improving feel without these polymers.
A composition comprising an oxidizing agent, oil, and a branched hydrocarbon compound, such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, which enhances the feel and shine of bleached or colored hair, while limiting lightening, without the use of cationic polymers.
The composition effectively bleaches or colors hair, improving softness and shine, and limits lightening, providing a better hair feel and appearance without the need for cationic polymers.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers, in particular a composition for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] It is known to dye keratinous fibers, particularly hair, with dye compositions containing oxidative color precursors, generally called oxidative bases, such as ortho- or paraphenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidative bases are generally combined with couplers. These oxidative bases and couplers are colorless or weakly colored compounds. However, when combined with oxidizing agents, they can provide colored dye molecules through a process of oxidative condensation.
[0003] This type of oxidative coloring, that is, oxidative dyeing, makes it possible to obtain colors with very high visibility, gray coverage, and a wide variety of shades. Oxidative dyeing is widely used because of its strong color uptake compared to direct dyeing using so-called direct dyes.
[0004] In order to carry out an oxidative dyeing, typically, a composition comprising one or more oxidative base(s), as well as one or more coupler(s), with one or more alkaline agent(s), is mixed with a developer composition comprising one or more oxidizing agent(s) to prepare a ready-to-use composition, then the ready-to-use composition is applied to keratinous fibers to dye the keratinous fibers.
[0005] The developer composition is capable of bleaching keratin fibers due to the function of the oxidizing agent(s) in the composition. Therefore, the developer composition, as well as the ready-to-use composition (which may not include an oxidizing base with or without a coupler), can be used to bleach keratin fibers. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0006] Cationic polymers have been commonly used to improve the feel of hair after bleaching or coloring. However, in recent years, it has become desirable to avoid or reduce the use of cationic polymers.
[0007] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to propose a composition for keratin fibers, which can bleach or color keratin fibers while also improving the feel of bleached or colored hair, even without the aid of cationic polymers.
[0008] The above objective can be achieved by a composition for keratinous fibers, comprising: a. at least one oxidizing agent; b. at least one oil; and c. at least one branched hydrocarbon compound different from (b) oil,
[0009] in which
[0010] the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0011] The (a) oxidizing agent may be hydrogen peroxide.
[0012] The quantity of the (a) oxidizing agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0013] The (b) oil can be chosen from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0014] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] The (c) branched hydrocarbon compound can be selected from hydrogenated polyisobutenes.
[0016] The (c) branched hydrocarbon compound may comprise a plurality of hydrogenated polyisobutenes with a different molecular weight or degree of polymerization.
[0017] The amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight or less, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.
[0019] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one fatty alcohol.
[0021] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0023] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, preferably a cosmetic composition for coloring keratinous fibers, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for coloring hair.
[0024] The present invention also relates to a method for treating, preferably coloring, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of:
[0025] (1) mixing of a first composition and a second composition for prepare a mixture,
[0026] in which
[0027] the first composition comprises a. at least one oxidizing agent, b. at least one oil, and c. at least one branched hydrocarbon compound other than (b) oil
[0028] in which
[0029] the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0030] and
[0031] the second composition comprises (h) at least one alkali agent;
[0032] and
[0033] (2) application of the mixture onto the keratinous fibers. Best embodiment of the invention
[0034] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition for keratinous fibers, which can bleach or color the keratinous fibers, while also improving the feel of bleached or colored hair, even without the aid of cationic polymers.
[0035] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one oxidizing agent; b. at least one oil; c. at least one branched hydrocarbon compound different from (b) oil,
[0036] in which
[0037] the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] The composition according to the present invention can bleach or color keratinous fibers such as hair, while also improving the feel of bleached or colored hair, even without the aid of cationic polymers. For example, the composition according to the present invention can enhance the softness and / or smooth texture of bleached or colored hair.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably a cosmetic composition for bleaching or dyeing keratinous fibers, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for oxidative dyeing keratinous fibers.
[0040] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can also provide good shine to keratin fibers such as hair. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can bleach or color keratin fibers, while enhancing the shine of the keratin fibers.
[0041] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can color or dye keratinous fibers such as hair while limiting the lightening of the keratinous fibers. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can color or dye keratinous fibers such as hair without significantly increasing the lightening of the keratinous fibers.
[0042] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Composition]
[0043] (Oxidizing agent)
[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oxidizing agent. If two or more oxidizing agents are used, they may be identical or different.
[0045] The (a) oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the (a) oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates. At least one oxidase enzyme selected, for example, from laccases, peroxidases, and 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricase may also be used as the (a) oxidizing agent, optionally in the presence of its respective donor or cofactor.
[0046] It is preferable that the (a) oxidizing agent be hydrogen peroxide.
[0047] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which may be selected from, for example, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin, and acid and oxyquinoline salts, for example, oxyquinoline sulfate. In another In this embodiment, at least one stannate, optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate, is used. Salicylic acid and its salts, pyridinedicarboxylic acid and its salts, and paracetamol may also be used.
[0048] In the composition according to the present invention, the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer can range from 0.0001% to 5% by weight such as from 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] In the composition according to the present invention, the concentration ratio between hydrogen peroxide and the optional at least one stabilizer can range from 0.05:1 to 1000:1, such as from 0.1:1 to 500:1 and furthermore such as from 1:1 to 200:1.
[0050] The quantity of the (a) oxidizing agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] The quantity of the (a) oxidizing agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0052] The quantity of the (a) oxidizing agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] (Oil)
[0054] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.
[0055] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As (b) oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0056] The (b) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0057] The (b) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0058] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0060] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0061] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0062] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0063] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and alcohols in CrC22 can also be used, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26.
[0064] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0065] Sugar esters and C6-C30 fatty acid diesters, and preferably C2-C22 esters, can be used as ester oils. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0066] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0067] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and fatty acids in the range of C6-C30, and preferably in the range of C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0068] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0069] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as tetraethyl pentaerythrityl hexanoate.
[0070] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0071] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0072] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, Isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0073] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0074] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0075] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0076] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0077] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0078] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0079] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecam ethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, marketed by Union Carbide, with the formula: DD g — QH, '----------------------------CH. with D”: ~ ° with D?: ™ St ™ O — CHâ C8H17
[0080] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
[0081] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0082] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing groups are particularly noteworthy.
[0083]
[0084]
[0085]
[0086]
[0087]
[0088]
[0089] trimethylsilyl terminals. Examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes include, but are not limited to, the following commercial products: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric. We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company. Silicones containing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20; • certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Organomodified liquid silicones may contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone from Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide. Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, for example: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, and tridecane; cyclopentane and cyclohexane; and • linear hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin, polydecenes and squalane. Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for instance, linear hydrocarbons such as squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that (b) oil be chosen from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from ester oils, a Mineral oil, and their mixtures.
[0090] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less and, more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] (Branched hydrocarbon compound)
[0094] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one branched hydrocarbon compound. If two (b) or more branched hydrocarbon compounds are used, they may be identical or different.
[0095] The (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is different from the (b) oil.
[0096] The (c) branched hydrocarbon compound may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0097] It is preferable that the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound be a branched and aliphatic hydrocarbon compound.
[0098] It is more preferable that the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound be a branched, aliphatic, and saturated hydrocarbon compound.
[0099] The (c) branched hydrocarbon compound may be selected from branched alkanes with 6 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isodecane and isododecane.
[0100] The (c) branched hydrocarbon compound may be selected from branched hydrocarbons, preferably aliphatic, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated, having more than 16 carbon atoms such as hydrogenated polyisobutene.
[0101] It is preferable that the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound be chosen from among hydrogenated polyisobutenes.
[0102] Hydrogenated polyisobutene or isoparaffin can be prepared by the copolymerization of isobutene and n-butene, followed by hydrogenation.
[0103] Hydrogenated polyisobutene refers to a branched hydrocarbon comprising at least one side chain such as a methyl group, which can be represented by the following chemical formula: CH; CH;
[0104] in which • n denotes an integer of 4 or more.
[0105] Hydrogenated polyisobutene can be called isoparaffin which can be classified as light liquid isoparaffin, liquid isoparaffin and heavy liquid isoparaffin.
[0106] Light liquid isoparaffin may have a repeating motif of -(C(CH3 )2 CH2)- with a degree of polymerization of 4 to 6, and may have a viscosity of 1 to less than 10 mm2 / s at 20 °C. Light liquid isoparaffin may be volatile. Parleam® 4 from NOF Corp. is an example of a liquid paraffin.
[0107] Liquid paraffin which may have a repeating motif of -(C(CH3)2 CH2)- with a degree of polymerization of 5 to 10, and may have a viscosity of 10 to 100 mm2 / s at 20 °C. Examples of liquid paraffin include Parleam® and Parleam® Lite from NOF Corp.
[0108] Heavy liquid isoparaffin which may have a repeating motif of -(C(CH3)2 CH2)- with a higher degree of polymerization, and may have a viscosity greater than 100 mm² / s at 20 °C. Examples of liquid paraffin include Parleam® V, Parleam® HV and Parleam® SV from NOF Corp.
[0109] Preferably the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound comprises a plurality of hydrogenated polyisobutenes with a different molecular weight or degree of polymerization.
[0110] It may be preferable to use a mixture of liquid paraffin and heavy liquid isoparaffin as ingredient (c). For example, a mixture of Parleam® Lite and Parleam® V may preferably be used as ingredient (c).
[0111] The quantity of the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0112] The quantity of the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] The quantity of the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] (Water)
[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) water.
[0116] The (d) water can constitute an aqueous phase which can be, for example, a continuous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
[0117] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, and more preferably 65% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0119] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] (pH)
[0121] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 1.0 to less than 7.0, preferably from 1.1 to 5.0, and more preferably from 1.2 to 3.0, which is measured at 25 °C.
[0122] The pH can be corrected to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one alkalizing agent.
[0123] Acidifying agents may be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carboxylic acid, for example tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, or sulfonic acid.
[0124] The acidifying agent may be present in an amount of less than 15% by weight, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] The alkalizing agent may be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agent commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: RI R3 R2 R4
[0126] in which • R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted with a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and R2, R3, and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea, and monoethanolamine may be preferable.
[0127] It is preferable that the quantity of alkalizing agent in the composition according to the present invention be as low as possible.
[0128] Thus, it is preferable that the composition include at least one alkalizing agent in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may not include any alkalizing agent.
[0129] (Fatty alcohol)
[0130] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one fatty alcohol. If two or more fatty alcohols are used, they may be identical or different.
[0131] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols containing 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0132] The (e) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from Ci2-C24 alkyl and Ci2-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0133] Non-limiting examples of (e) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist in a commercial product in the form of a mixture.
[0136] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0137] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the com- position.
[0139] The quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] (Non-ionic surfactant)
[0141] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one nonionic surfactant. If at least two nonionic surfactants are used, they may be identical or different.
[0142] Nonionic surfactants are well known (for example, see "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), and may be chosen from, for example, alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, where these compounds are ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and have at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and that the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Other examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
[0143] The (f) nonionic surfactants may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylated, monoglycerol, or polyglycerol nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene motifs are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene motifs, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene motifs.
[0144] Examples of monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated nonionic surfactants that may be cited include: • Monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated (C8-C24)alkylphenols, • Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated C8-C30 alcohols, • C8-C30 amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated, • polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids, and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols, • monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids, and of sorbitol, • saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated, and • ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or in mixtures.
[0145] The (f) non-ionic surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.
[0146] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic monooxyalkylated surfactants can be selected from a mono-oxyethylated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol fatty alcohol ether), a monooxyethylated fatty ester (ethylene glycol fatty acid ester), and mixtures thereof.
[0147] Examples of monooxyalkylated fatty esters that may be cited include glycol distearate.
[0148] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic polyoxyalkylated surfactants can be selected from a polyoxyethylated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol ether), a polyoxyethylated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol and fatty acid ester), and mixtures thereof.
[0149] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20); ethylene oxide adducts with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20);Ethylene oxide adducts with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20); and mixtures thereof.
[0150] Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) which Examples that can be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene motifs and more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene motifs (names CFTA Oleth-2 to Oleth-20); and mixtures thereof.
[0151] It is preferable that the (f) non-ionic surfactant be chosen from monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols.
[0152] The quantity of the (f) non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] The quantity of the (f) non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0154] The quantity of the (f) non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0155] (Other optional ingredients)
[0156] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one other optional or additional ingredient.
[0157] The other optional or additional ingredient(s) may be chosen from the group consisting of anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants; thickeners; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; chelating agents; emulsifiers and perfumes.
[0158] As the other optional or additional ingredient(s), the composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.
[0159] The quantity of the other optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0160] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one cationic polymer; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be free of any cationic polymer.
[0161] The cationic polymer can be chosen from those including at least one quaternary ammonium group such as polyquaternium polymers.
[0162] The expression "free from any cationic polymer" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of cationic polymer. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of cationic polymer, in particular no cationic polymer.
[0163] (Preparation)
[0164] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients described above in a conventional manner.
[0165] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the step of mixing a. at least one oxidizing agent; b. at least one oil; and c. at least one branched hydrocarbon compound other than (b) the oil,
[0166] so that the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0167] For ingredients (a) to (c) above, those explained above may be used.
[0168] It is possible to further mix in any of the optional ingredients such as (d) water, (e) fatty alcohol, (f) non-ionic surfactants, and the other optional or additional ingredients above. [Use]
[0169] The composition according to the present invention is preferably used for cosmetic purposes on keratin fibers. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, in particular for bleaching or coloring / dyeing keratin fibers.
[0170] Examples of keratinous fibers include hair, eyebrows, and eyelashes. Preferably, the keratinous fibers should be hair.
[0171] If the composition according to the present invention explained above is used to bleach keratinous fibers such as hair, for example, the composition according to the present invention can be used as is or in mixture with another composition comprising (g) at least one alkaline agent explained below.
[0172] Alternatively, if the composition according to the present invention is used to color or dye keratinous fibers such as hair, the composition according to the present invention may be used in a mixture with another composition comprising (g) at least one alkaline agent and (h) at least one dye. In this case, the composition according to the present invention may act as a developer.
[0173] The above mixture can be considered a ready-to-use composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "ready-to-use composition" is defined herein as a composition to be applied immediately to keratinous fibers such as hair. The ready-to-use composition can also be a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, in particular for bleaching or coloring / dyeing keratinous fibers, such as hair.
[0174] The mixing ratio between the composition according to the present invention and another composition is not limited. The mixing ratio may be from 1:3 to 3:1, preferably from 1:2 to 2:1, and more preferably from 1:1, as a weight ratio between them.
[0175] (Alkaline agent)
[0176] The composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention comprises (g) at least one alkali agent. If two or more alkali agents are used, they may be identical or different.
[0177] The (g) alkali agent may include at least one selected from alkanolamines, alkanolamine derivatives, and salts of alkanolamines or alkanolamine derivatives.
[0178] Alkanolamines have an alkane structure with at least one hydroxyl group and at least one amino group.
[0179] Examples of alkanolamines include mono-, di- and triethanolamines. The alkanolamine may be selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] The alkanolamine derivative may be selected from alkanolamines in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom, if any, of the amino group in the alkanolamines is substituted by at least one substituent.
[0181] Examples of substituents include an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, and an alkynyl group.
[0182] The alkyl group may be linear, branched, or cyclic. The alkyl group may be linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group, or a butyl group. Alternatively, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group.
[0183] The alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group and a hexenyl group.
[0184] The alkynyl group may be a C2-C6 alkynyl group such as an ethynyl group and a propanyl group.
[0185] The above substituent may further be substituted by at least one group such as a halogen atom, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.
[0186] The (g) alkaline agent may also include an additional alkalinizing agent.
[0187] The additional alkalizing agent may be chosen from inorganic and / or organic alkalizing agents.
[0188] Examples of inorganic alkalizing agents include sodium and potassium hydroxide.
[0189] Ammonia can be used as an inorganic alkalizing agent. However, it is preferable that the amount of ammonia in the composition according to the present invention be as low as possible. For example, the amount of ammonia in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include ammonia.
[0190] Examples of organic alkalizing agents include urea, guanidine and their derivatives; diamines such as those described in the structure below:
[0191] in which • R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and R2, R3 and Ri independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0192] The type of alkanolamine salts or alkanolamine derivatives is not limited. The salts may be acid salts. Examples of acid salts include inorganic acid salts such as hydrochloride, sulfates, nitrates, and phosphates, and organic acid salts such as citrates, oxalates, acetates, formates, maleates and tartrates.
[0193] The quantity of the (g) alkali agent(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] The quantity of the (g) alkali agent(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0195] The quantity of the (g) alkali agent(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0196] (Dye)
[0197] The composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one dye. If two or more dyes are used, they may be identical or different.
[0198] It is preferable that the dye be chosen from among the oxidative dyes.
[0199] Oxidative dyes can be chosen from oxidation bases and couplers.
[0200] The oxidation base can be chosen from those classically known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of ortho- and paraphenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their acid addition salts.
[0201] Examples include:
[0202] (I) paraphenylenediamines of the following formula (I) and their addition salts with a acid: nr5r£ £ !
[0203] in which: • RI represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy radical (Ci-C4 alkyl), a polyhydroxy radical (C2-C4 alkyl), a CrC4-alkyl alkoxy radical, a substituted CrC4 alkyl radical by a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl radical, or a 4'-aminophenyl radical; • R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl) radical, a polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl) radical, a Ci-C4-alkyl CrC4 alkoxy radical, or a CrC4 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrogen-containing group; • Ri and R2 can also form with the nitrogen atom that bears them a heterocycle containing nitrogen with 5 or 6 links optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, hydroxyl or ureido groups; • R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a sulfo radical, a carboxyl radical, a monohydroxy radical (C1-C4 alkyl), a hydroxy radical (C1-C4 alkoxy), an acetylamino radical (C1-C4 alkoxy), a mesylamino radical (C1-C4 alkoxy), or a carbamoylamino radical (C1-C4 alkoxy); and • I^i represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl radical in Ci-C4.
[0204] Among the nitrogen-containing groups of formula (I) above, particular examples include amino radicals, Ci-C4 mono-alkylamino, Ci-C4 dialkylamino, Ci-C4 trial-kylamino, Ci-C4 monohydroxy-alkylamino, di(monohydroxy(alkyl Ci-C4))amino, imidazolinium and ammonium.
[0205] Among the paraphenylenediamines of formula (I) above, particular examples include paraphenylenediamine, paratolylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl 1-3-methyl laniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methylparaphenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-[3-hydroxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, N-(|3,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-paraphenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-paraphenylenediamine,N-phenyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine, , 2-[3-acetylamino-ethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 2-methyl-1N-[3-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N-(4-aminopheny 1)-3-hydroxy-pyrrolidine, 2-[{2-[(4-aminophenyl)amino]ethyl}(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-ethanol, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0206] Among the paraphenylenediamines of formula (I) above, paraphenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
[0207] (II) According to the present invention, "double bases" are understood to mean compounds containing at least two aromatic rings on which amino and / or hydroxyl groups are carried.
[0208] Among the double bases that can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions according to the present invention, particular examples include compounds corresponding to the following formula (II), as well as their addition salts with an acid:
[0209] in which: • Zi and Z2, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or -NH2 which can be substituted by an alkyl radical in Ci-C4 or by a Y bonding arm; • the Y-linking arm represents a linear or branched alkylene chain comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy radicals in CrC 6; • R5 and R6 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl radical in C1-C4, a monohydroxy radical (CrC4 alkyl), a polyhydroxy radical (C2-C4 alkyl), an amino radical (CrC4 alkyl) or a Y-linking arm; • R7, R8, R9, Rio, Riu and Rn, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a Y-bonding arm or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; it being understood that compounds of formula (II) contain only one Y-bonding arm per molecule.
[0210] Among the nitrogen-containing groups of formula (II) above, particular examples include amino radicals, C1-C4 mono-alkylamino, C1-C4 dialkylamino, C1-C4 trial-kylamino, C1-C4 monohydroxy-alkylamino, imidazolinium and ammonium.
[0211] Among the double bases of formulas (II) above, we may mention more particularly N,N'-bis([L-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)-tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0212] Among these double bases of formula (II), N,N'-bis([Lhydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, or one of their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
[0213] (III) Para-aminophenols corresponding to the following formula (III), and their addition salts with an acid: OH (D)
[0214] in which: • Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, monohydroxy(CrC4 alkyl), C1-C4 alkoxy, C1-C4 -alkyl, amino(C1-C4 alkyl) or hydroxy(C1-C4 alkylamino -CrC4 alkyl), • Ru represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, monohydroxy(CrC4 alkyl), polydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl), amino(CrC4 alkyl), cyano(C1-C4 alkyl) or C1-C4 alkoxy - alkyl in C1-C4.
[0215] Among the para-aminophenols of formula (III) above, particular mention may be made of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0216] (IV) The ortho-aminophenols that can be used as oxidation bases in the context of the present invention are chosen in particular from 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-6-methylbenzene, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0217] (V) Among the heterocyclic bases that can be used as bases oxidation in dye compositions according to the present invention, we can mention more particularly pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0218] Among the pyridine derivatives, we may mention more particularly the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-(P-methoxyethyl)amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0219] Among the pyrimidine derivatives, special mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169571; and JP 91-10659, or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, and pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2 750 048 and among which may be mentioned pyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethyl-pyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidine-7-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidine-5-ol; 2-(3-aminopyrazolo-[l,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ylamino)ethanol, 2-(7-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidin-3-ylamino)ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidin-7-yl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(7-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidin-3-yl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo-[l,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo-[l,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5,N7,N7-tetramethyl-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropyl-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidine, their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0220] Among the pyrazole derivatives, particular mention may be made of the compounds described in patents DE 3 843 892 and DE 4 133 957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749, and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole,4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0221] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be used as oxidation bases, diaminopyrazolopyrazolones, and in particular 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H5H-[pyrazolol,2,a]pyrazol-1-one and the addition salts of these diaminopyrazolopyrazolones with an acid, can be mentioned in particular.
[0222] The coupler may be an oxidation coupler which may be chosen from those classically known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthols, heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0223] Heterocyclic couplers may be selected from the group consisting of indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles, benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1,3-benzodioxoles, quinolines, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0224] These couplers are more specifically chosen from 2,4-Diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2-chloro-3-amino-6-methylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4-([3-hydroxyethylarnino)-l-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propane, sesamol, l-amino-2-methoxy-4,5-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,6-dimethyl-pyrazolo[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, and their addition salts with an acid.
[0225] In general, the acid addition salts of the oxidation bases and the couplers are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates, acetates.
[0226] The quantity of the dye(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention may be 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is even more preferable that the quantity of the dye(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention be 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0227] Furthermore, the quantity of the dye(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is even more preferable that the quantity of the dye(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention be 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0228] The quantity of the dye(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is even more preferable that the quantity of the dye(s) in the composition to be mixed with the composition according to the present invention be from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Necessary]
[0229] The present invention also relates to a kit for keratin fibers, preferably a cosmetic kit, and more preferably a cosmetic kit for bleaching or coloring / dyeing keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising:
[0230] a first compartment comprising a first composition comprising a. at least one oxidizing agent; b. at least one oil; and c. at least one branched hydrocarbon compound other than (b) oil,
[0231] in which
[0232] the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0233] and
[0234] a second compartment comprising a second composition comprising
[0235] (g) at least one alkaline agent.
[0236] The second composition may further comprise (h) at least one dye.
[0237] The first composition may further include any of the ingredients (d) to (f) explained above.
[0238] For ingredients (a) to (h) above, those explained above may be used.
[0239] It is possible to use the necessary by dispensing or discharging, for example, the first composition from the first compartment, while dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, and then treating the keratinous fibers such as hair with the mixture of the first and second compositions.
[0240] The mixture of the first and second compositions can be considered as the ready-to-use composition as explained above.
[0241] The mixing ratio between the first and second compositions is not limited. The mixing ratio may be from 1:3 to 3:1, preferably from 1:2 to 2:1, and more preferably from 1:1, as a weight ratio between them.
[0242] [Procedure]
[0243] The present invention also relates to a method, preferably a cosmetic method, and more preferably a cosmetic method for bleaching or coloring / dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising the steps of:
[0244] (1) mixing of a first composition and a second composition for prepare a mixture,
[0245] in which
[0246] the first composition comprises a. at least one oxidizing agent, b. at least one oil, and c. at least one branched hydrocarbon compound other than (b) oil,
[0247] in which
[0248] the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0249] and
[0250] the second composition comprises (g) at least one alkali agent;
[0251] and
[0252] (2) application of the mixture to the keratinous fibers.
[0253] The first composition may further include any of the ingredients (d) to (f) explained above.
[0254] The second composition may further comprise (h) at least one dye.
[0255] For ingredients (a) to (h) above, those explained above may be used.
[0256] The mixture of the first and second compositions can be considered as the ready-to-use composition as explained above.
[0257] The mixing ratio between the first and second compositions is not limited. The mixing ratio may be from 1:3 to 3:1, preferably from 1:2 to 2:1, and more preferably from 1:1, as a weight ratio between them.
[0258] It is preferable that the process according to the present invention further include a washing step, with or without drying, of the keratinous fibers before and / or after the step of applying the mixture of the first and second compositions, as a ready-to-use composition, to the keratinous fibers.
[0259] The step of applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratinous fibers can be carried out by a conventional applicator such as a brush, or even by hand.
[0260] The keratin fibers to which the ready-to-use composition has been applied may be left for an appropriate time as required to treat the keratin fibers. The duration of the treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 1 minute to 30 minutes. For example, the dyeing time of the keratin fibers may be from 1 to 30 minutes, preferably from 20 to 30 minutes.
[0261] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises: • from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) at least one oxidizing agent which is hydrogen peroxide; • from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of ester oils such as ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, and mixtures thereof; and • from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (c) at least one branched hydrocarbon compound selected from hydrogenated polyisobutenes.
[0262] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises: • 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) at least one oxidizing agent which is hydrogen peroxide; • from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of ester oils such as ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil and mixtures thereof; and • 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (c) at least one branched hydrocarbon compound selected from hydrogenated polyisobutenes. EXAMPLES
[0263] We will describe the present invention in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the field of the present invention. [Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5]
[0264] The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 shown in Tables 1 and 2, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values of the quantities of ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.
[0265] [Table 1]
[0266] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Ex. 11 Ex. 12 Tetrasodium etidronate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Salicylate 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 sodium 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Ethylhexyl Palmitate 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 - Mineral Oil - 20 Cetearyl Alcohol 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 POE (polyoxyethylene) stearyl ether 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 Tocopherol 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (1) 0.1 0.15 0.5 - 1 - 0.6 1.2 2.4 4.5 6 1.2 Hydrogenated polyisobutene (2) - 0.1 - 0.5 - 1 0.4 0.8 1.6 3 4 0.8 Hydrogenated peroxide 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 Phos- qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs phoric acid (85% PH PH PH PH PH PH PH PH PH PH PH PH by weight) 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2,2 + + + + + + + + + + + + 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Total quantity of poly- 0.1 0.25 0.5 0.5 1 1 1 2 4 7.5 10 2 , isobutène hydrogéné Douceur + ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ + + ++ Smooth texture ++ +++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++ +++ ++ ++ +++
[0267] [Tableau 2]
[0268] [Tableaux2] Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Ex. Comp. 5 Tetrasodium etidronate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Sodium salicylate 0.035 0.035 0.035 0.035 0.035 Ethylhexyl palmitate 20 20 20 20 20 Cetearyl alcohol 6 6 6 6 6 POE (polyoxyethylene) stearyl ether 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 Tocopherol 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Hydrogenated polyisobutene (2) - 0.05 - - - Shea butter - - 1 Hydroxystearic acid - - - 1 - Betaine (trimethylglycine) - - - - 1 Phosphoric acid qs pH qs pH qs pH qs pH (85% by weight) 2.2 ± 2.2 ± 2.2 ± 2.2 ± 2.2 ± 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydrogenated peroxide 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Total quantity of hydrogenated polyisobutene 0 0.05 0 0 0 Softness - - - - - Smooth texture + + + - - 1. sold by NOF Corporation under the name Parleam® V 2. Sold by NOF Corporation under the name Parleam® Lite [Reviews]
[0269] (Softness and Smooth Texture)
[0270] Each of the compositions, among those according to Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, was mixed with a dye composition (L'Oréal iNOA Japan 8.11). The mixing weight ratio between each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 and the dye composition was 1:1.
[0271] 8 g each of the above mixture thus obtained were applied to 2.7 g (27 cm) from a strand of natural Chinese hair. The strand of hair was left for 35 minutes at 25°C. The strand of hair was then washed with water, then shampooed, rinsed and dried.
[0272] Next, the softness and smooth texture of the hair strand were visually assessed by 5 panelists by rating the hair strand according to the following criteria.
[0273] Excellent: +++
[0274] Good: ++
[0275] Correct: +
[0276] Bad: -
[0277] The average scores were calculated. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0278] (Summary)
[0279] Compositions according to Examples 1 to 12 which include (a) at least one oxidizing agent; (b) at least one oil; (c) at least one branched hydrocarbon compound other than (b) oil, provided that the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, have been able to dye keratinous fibers, while also improving the feel of the dyed keratinous fibers.
[0280] Comparison of Examples 5 and 6 with Example 7 in Table 1 shows that using a plurality of hydrogenated polyisobutenes with a different molecular weight or degree of polymerization (the difference in molecular weight or degree of polymerization results in the difference in dynamic viscosity) can provide a better smooth texture.
[0281] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not include ingredient (c), and the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which includes ingredient (c) in an amount less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, could not offer cosmetic performance as did the compositions according to Examples 1 to 12.
[0282] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 3 to 5, which include ingredients different from ingredient (c), were unable to offer cosmetic performance as did the compositions according to Examples 1 to 12.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition for keratinous fibers, comprising: (a) at least one oxidizing agent; (b) at least one oil; and (c) at least one branched hydrocarbon compound other than (b) oil, wherein the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the quantity of the (a) oxidizing agent(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (b) oil is selected from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is selected from hydrogenated polyisobutenes.
6. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the (c) branched hydrocarbon compound comprises a plurality of hydrogenated polyisobutenes with a different molecular weight or degree of polymerization.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising (d) water.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one fatty alcohol.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one non-ionic surfactant.
10. A process for treating, preferably coloring, keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (1) mixing a first composition and a second composition to prepare a mixture; in which the first composition includes (a) at least one oxidizing agent, (b) at least one oil, and (c) at least one branched hydrocarbon compound different from (b) the oil in which the amount of (c) branched hydrocarbon compound is 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, And the second composition comprises (g) at least one alkaline agent; And (2) application of the mixture onto the keratinous fibers.