Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one non-siliconized oil, and at least one non-siliconized filler

Abstract

L'Oréal "Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one non-siliconized oil, and at least one non-siliconized filler" The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising at least: (a) a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol; (b) an anionic surfactant having at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain; (c) a non-siliconized oil; and (d) a non-siliconized filler. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment process in which said composition is applied to keratinous material and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic field, and in particular for skin care, protection, makeup, or hair care. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one non-siliconized oil, and at least one non-siliconized filler. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol; at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain; at least one non-siliconized oil, and at least one non-siliconized filler, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials. Previous technique

[0002] The particular galenic type targeted by the present invention, namely an oil-in-water emulsion type requiring in particular the presence of at least a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, makes it possible to carry active ingredients while providing interesting sensory properties appreciated by users when applied to keratinous materials.

[0003] Oil-in-water emulsion type compositions requiring in particular the presence of at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, are in particular described in WO2018108878 and WO2020002538.

[0004] However, these compositions meet very specific objectives. In particular, they are intended respectively to mask skin imperfections, to hydrate the skin and / or to treat the signs of skin aging, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, especially which increase with age.

[0005] By "keratinous materials", we mean in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, eye contour, eyelids).

[0006] However, it is sometimes difficult to reconcile the requirements for sensory properties, texture, and stability. In particular, it is desirable to have compositions capable of maintaining a constant viscosity over time, especially a viscosity that does not increase or decrease over time. Description of the invention

[0007] The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned technical problems.

[0008] In view of the foregoing, it is thus manifest that there remains a need for compositions having interesting sensory properties, and in particular good emollience during and after application, low lathering, which are oily (i.e. not or only slightly rough) and shiny and / or satiny in skin finish, while maintaining satisfactory stability, in particular stability evaluated at 1 month and / or 2 months of storage, in particular on the macroscopic and microscopic levels after two months of storage under temperature conditions ranging from 4 °C to 45 °C, in particular at 4 °C, room temperature (generally between 20 °C and 25 °C), and 45 °C.

[0009] Finally, consumers today are very sensitive to the environmental impact of the products used.

[0010] Consequently, it remains very difficult to obtain cosmetic compositions offering particular sensory properties of a feeling of emollience during and after application, a non-rough and shiny and / or satiny skin finish, low soaping, while maintaining good stability over time, and with the lowest possible environmental impact. Summary of the invention

[0011] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:

[0012] (a) at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18;

[0013] (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one chain hydrocarbon in C16-C22, preferably in C16-C18;

[0014] (c) at least one non-siliconized oil, and

[0015] (d) at least one non-siliconized charge.

[0016] Preferably, the composition is free of silicone compounds.

[0017] For the purposes of the present invention, "free from silicone compounds" means a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably is free (devoid) of silicone compounds.

[0018] By silicone compounds (also called silicones), we mean all silicone compounds that can be used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, that is to say inorganic compounds consisting of at least a mixture of silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile silicones or functionalized, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl or amine silicones.

[0019] As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to obtain compositions with interesting sensory properties, and in particular good emollience during and after application, low lathering, which are oily (i.e. not or only slightly rough) and shiny and / or satiny in skin finish, while maintaining satisfactory stability over time.

[0020] The compositions according to the present invention advantageously allow the delivery of ingredients of diverse nature such as cosmetic actives, sun filters, particles, colorants or mother-of-pearl or pigments, perfumes, polymers depending on the different benefit(s) desired.

[0021] The compositions according to the present invention also have the advantage of providing an anti-aging effect.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous material in which a composition as defined above is applied to the keratinous material.

[0023] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0024] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows. Detailed description

[0025] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0026] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0027] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0028] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0029] In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a domain of values ​​are included in that domain. C16-C22 saturated fatty acids

[0030] By "saturated fatty alcohol" is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.

[0031] By "hydrocarbon chain" is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0032] The saturated fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention comprise between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0033] The saturated fatty alcohol(s) useful in the context of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (Ci6), stearyl alcohol or octadecanol (Ci8), behenic alcohol (C22) which are solid at room temperature and advantageously have a -OH group at the end of the chain.

[0034] In a particularly preferred manner, one or more alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl alcohol (or cetostearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol - "ceteraryl alcohol" in English) will be used.

[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols in Ci6 and Ci8, in particular the composition comprises cetostearyl alcohol.

[0036] More preferably, the mixture of fatty alcohols in Ci6 and in Ci8 is used in a Ck / Cis mass ratio varying from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a Ci6 / Ci8 mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.

[0037] The quantity of fatty alcohols in the composition according to the invention is between 2.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 8% by weight, and even more preferably between 2.7% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain

[0039] The anionic surfactant(s) useful within the framework of the invention comprise at least one linear hydrocarbon chain, saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (which may contain one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds), preferably saturated, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) useful in the context of the invention comprise a single linear hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the anionic surfactant(s) useful within the framework of the invention contain a single C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain.

[0041] By "hydrocarbon chain" is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are selected from alkyl(C16-C22)sulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)amidesulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)arylsulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)sulfoacetates, N-acyl(C16-C22)-N-alkyl(Cl-C6)taurates, acyl(C16-C22)isethionates, alkyl(C16-C22)sulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from:

[0045] - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0046] - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the alkyl group is linear, branched comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group is a methyl,

[0047] - and their mixtures;

[0048] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0049] As examples of N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, one can cite sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO.

[0050] The acyl glutamate(s) can be chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0051] Examples of acyl glutamates include palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, and salts of these acids, particularly alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline earth metals such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0052] Examples include compounds bearing the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

[0053] As salts of acyl glutamic acid, we can also mention sodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH2)nSO3M in which R represents a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched in C16-C22; Y represents -O- or -NRi- with Ri representing a linear or branched alkyl group in C1-C3; M is chosen from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, the ammonium group and organic amines; n is an integer from 1 to 3.

[0055] Preferably, the anionic surfactant of general formula (I) is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, with M corresponding to Na.

[0056] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one Cl6-C22 hydrocarbon chain as defined above.

[0057] In compositions according to the invention, the mass ratio of fatty alcohols (a) / anionic surfactants (b) can be between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3, and even more preferably between 9:1 and 4:1.

[0058] Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol(s) and the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain form an alpha-crystalline phase, also called an alpha-gel, with the hydrophilic phase. This phase can notably be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature below the melting point of the alpha-gel phase.

[0059] Thus, the composition according to the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period greater than 10 nm, and preferably greater than 12 nm, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 15 nm. The period is defined as the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by fatty alcohols (a) and anionic surfactants (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two lamellae, this pattern repeating several times.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms of the hydrocarbon chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms of the fatty alcohol(s) (a) shall not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably it is less than or equal to 4. Non-silicone oils

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-siliconized oil.

[0063] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at ambient temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0064] The composition according to the invention may in particular include hydrocarbon oils.

[0065] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0067] The term "non-siliconized oil" means an oil that does not contain silicon atoms, and in particular Si-O groups.

[0068] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0069] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include:

[0070] - branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, particularly in C8- Ci6, such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls; C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures; linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example, n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 respectively, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, and n-undecane mixtures. (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures; or a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms (named C15-C19 alkane), for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic. hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, Linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, and Limanthes alba seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil);or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel. We can also mention coco-caprylate / caprate, for example marketed under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,; Synthetic esters, such as oils with the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyle myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-Octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and Ci-C6 alcohol ester with INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer;tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates; - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - diol and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, more specifically chosen from the esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isosteryl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures, - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL205" from Ajinomoto, - fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and possibly unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids in the C19-C22 range, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by the company Cognis.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-siliconized oil(s) are chosen from branched or linear alkanes comprising more than 8 atoms of carbon, hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters of formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, fatty amides, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and possibly unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, higher fatty acids in Ci9-C22, carbonates and their mixtures;in particular among oleyl erucate, branched or linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof; more particularly among oleyl erucate, a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises 8% to 40% by weight, and preferably 9% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably 10% to 15% by weight of non-siliconized oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0073] A composition according to the invention may include at least one wax, in particular a wax of vegetable origin having a melting point above 25 °C.

[0074] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state.

[0075] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential calorimetric analysis or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0076] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

[0077] The measurement protocol is as follows: a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first heating from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second heating, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0078] Examples of vegetable-based waxes having a melting point above 25 °C that can be used according to the invention include:

[0079] - Camuba wax, - candellila wax, in particular the commercial reference Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from the company Strahl & Pitsch, - lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylened lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof, - rice bran wax, - Ouricury wax, - Alfa wax, - cork fiber wax, - sugar cane wax, - Japanese wax, - sumac wax, - Montan wax, - Orange peel wax, in particular that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - laurel wax, - sunflower wax, - lemon wax, - olive wax, - Berry wax, - beeswax, in particular that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher, - buckwheat wax, in particular that which is marketed by the company Codif, - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with fatty alcohols with a chain in C12 to C18, in particular sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), - partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil, - hydrogenated jojoba oil, - isomerized jojoba oil, in particular partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-500, - fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, in particular the mixture of three waxes: jojoba esters, helianthus annuus seed wax, and acacia decurrens extract, and of polyglyceryl, in particular the product marketed under the name Hydracire S or Acticire® by the company Gatefossé, - hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular the product marketed under the name Cegesoft HF 52 by the company Cognis (BASF), a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils, or the product marketed under the name Softisan 100 Cremer by the company OLEO, - Partially hydrogenated olive oil, in particular the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - hydrogenated sunflower oil, - hydrogenated castor oil, - derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, in particular Rheox's Thixinr, - hydrogenated coconut oil, - hydrogenated palm oil, - hydrogenated coconut oil, - hydrogenated coco-glycerides, - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, - behenic alcohol, - and / or mixtures thereof.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin having a melting point above 25 °C selected from carnauba wax, partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated jojoba oil), fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, behenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment, the vegetable waxes having a melting point above 25 °C according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight of hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-siliconized charges

[0084] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-siliconized filler.

[0085] For the purposes of this invention, "charges" means colorless or white solid particles of any shape, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0086] The term "non-silicon charge" means a charge not comprising a silicon atom.

[0087] By way of illustration of these fillers may be cited talc, mica, kaolin, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders, N-acylated amino acids, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, cellulose beads, acrylic acid copolymers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The N-acylated amino acids suitable as a non-siliconized filler according to the invention comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group, preferably lauroyl.

[0089] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

[0090] According to a preferred embodiment, the C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles are lauroyl-lysine particles. For example, lauroyl-lysine powder marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL® (average size 11.7 µm) by AJINOMOTO may be cited.

[0091] Synthetic or natural micronized waxes are also suitable, particularly natural ones. Examples include carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by Micro Powders or under the name Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster by Lubrizol. Such additional micronized waxes notably improve the properties of the composition when applied to the skin.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-siliconized filler suitable for the invention is chosen from lauroyl lysine, boron nitride, cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-siliconized filler is lauroyl lysine, cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Lauroyl-lysine is marketed in particular under the name AMIHOPE LL® by the Ajinomoto Company or under the name Corum 5105 S by the Corum Company.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the non-siliconized filler(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.4% to 8.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.4% to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0096] The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range, for example, from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and even better from 4% to 15% by weight.

[0097] This quantity indicated does not include the content of anionic surfactants as defined above.

[0098] For the purposes of the invention, the oily phase includes any liquid fat at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or solid fat at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, present in said composition, with the exception of fatty alcohols as defined above. Polyols

[0099] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more polyols.

[0100] Polyol(s) are defined as organic molecules comprising at minus two hydroxyl (OH) functions.

[0101] For the purposes of this invention, polyol means:

[0102] - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at minus two hydroxyl groups; or

[0103] - a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in which one or several carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and include at least two hydroxyl functions, such as polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol motifs.

[0104] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched.

[0105] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0106] The polyol(s) may be selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol.

[0107] Among these polyols, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferred.

[0108] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0111] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of between 15% and 80% by weight, preferably between 15% and 60% by weight, and even more preferably between 20% and 50% by weight, better between 15% and 40% by weight, and even better between 15% and 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Additional charges

[0112] The composition according to the invention may include, in addition to the non-siliconized fillers as described above, at least one so-called additional filler, which may be silicified or non-siliconized.

[0113] Of course, when this additional charge is non-siliconized, it is distinct from the non-siliconized charge as defined in the present invention.

[0114] These additional charges may include organic charges and / or inorganic charges.

[0115] Of course, these fillers are used in appropriate concentrations and conditions so as not to be detrimental to the compositions.

[0116] In this application, "organic charge" means any organic solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25 °C). "Organic" means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure includes at least one or more carbon atoms.

[0117] In this application, "inorganic filler" means any inorganic solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25 °C). "Inorganic" means any compound or polymer whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom.

[0118] In particular, the additional filler may be selected from crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomeric powders coated with silsesquioxane resin, crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomeric powders coated with hydrophilic silicone resin, polyurethane powders, Camauba microwaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders, expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomeric powders, crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomeric powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, powders polyamide, silica and silicate powders, particularly alumina, hydrophobic aerogel particles,Talc particles of average size less than or equal to 3 microns, silica / TiO2 composites, barium sulfate particles, boron nitride particles, silica particles surface-treated with 1 to 2% mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, talc / TiO2 / alumina / silica composite powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as an additional filler which may be silicified or non-silicilated, silica silylate. Aqueous phase

[0120] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0121] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water and the polyol(s) as defined above. The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and is generally at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 35% by weight, and more preferably at least 40% by weight.

[0122] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may further contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive.

[0123] Water-soluble additives can also be mentioned as primary alcohols, that is, an alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is preferred. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a body or hair product.

[0124] The quantity of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention can range, for example, from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH between 4 and 9, more preferably between 4.5 and 7. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants

[0126] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0127] The expression "additional active" means, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent to activate it, a biological activity.

[0128] The additional active ingredient(s) may be chosen in particular from:

[0129] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3;

[0130] - known anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and including sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid;

[0131] - solar filters;

[0132] - menthol; and

[0133] - their mixtures.

[0134] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from among the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, film-forming polymers, thickening polymers, preservatives, pH adjusters (acids or bases), colorants, mother-of-pearl, pigments, dispersing agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] The additional active ingredient used in the composition according to the invention can represent from 0.0001% to 40%, preferably from 0.01% to 30% and better still, from 0.01% to 20% by weight, from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. Cosmetic composition

[0137] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0138] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. It comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0139] In addition, the composition according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam.

[0140] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application.

[0141] The composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0142] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0143] The composition according to the invention can be dedicated to being applied to skin.

[0144] Preferably, the skin is the skin of the face and / or body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or hands, preferably the face and / or neck.

[0145] As stated, the composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, advantageously very flexible.

[0146] The composition may alternatively be in the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and be packaged for example as a cream in a jar or as a fluid in a tube or pump bottle or dropper bottle.

[0147] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0148] The ingredients are mixed before shaping, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art. Uses and processes

[0149] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection, and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0150] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratinous material.

[0151] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0152] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0153] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0154] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can be formulated for example in the form of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam.

[0155] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with where appropriate one or more periods of interruption.

[0156] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0157] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned with a washing solution.

[0158] Furthermore, treatment combinations with possibly topical forms may be considered in order to complement or enhance the activity of the composition according to the invention.

[0159] One could imagine a topical treatment with the composition according to the invention, associated with an ancillary composition dedicated to topical application, this ancillary composition being able to be impregnated onto a wipe-type support.

[0160] Thus, the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic treatment process for a keratinous material, comprising:

[0161] a) a step of topical application on the skin of a washing solution;

[0162] b) a step of topical application to the skin of a composition according to the invention, and

[0163] c) optionally, a topical application step of a different composition of the composition applied in step b),

[0164] steps b) and c) can be carried out simultaneously or successively.

[0165] Such a composition applied in step c) can be described as an "ancillary composition".

[0166] The washing solution may in particular be in various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O / W or W / H form), or others, preferably in the form of an aqueous solution or gel.

[0167] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." shall be understood to include bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0168] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope. Examples MATERIALS AND METHODS Stability measurement

[0169] The stability of the compositions can be evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0170] The properties of the composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation and at 24 hours.

[0171] The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures: at room temperature or "TA" (approximately 25 °C), at 4 °C, and at 45 °C. The temperature can be regulated using an oven, for example, the Bio concept brand from Firlabo.

[0172] The properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

[0173] The properties evaluated are:

[0174] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;

[0175] - the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM100 by Lamy Rheology, according to the CID-012-02 method;

[0176] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under an optical microscope between a slide and a coverslip, at a magnification of X10 or even X100;

[0177] - the color and odor of the composition; and

[0178] Phenomena of destabilization of the composition will be observed, such as the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation, flocculation, the formation of a surface film, mottling...

[0179] The closer the properties of the composition remain after 1 month and / or 2 months of storage to those initially measured at 24h at 25°C, then the more the composition can be considered to remain stable.

[0180] In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without destabilization and without change in colour and odor, then it is considered to be stable. EXAMPLE 1

[0181] A composition according to the invention (II) and a composition outside the invention (Cl), in particular not comprising a non-siliconized filler according to the present invention, have been prepared.

[0182] These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 1 below, in the contents expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] [Tables 1] Phase Compound II (invention) Cl (not part of invention) A CETEARYL ALCOHOL 630 Preservatives qs A WAIER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 A Chelatani 0.25 0.25 A SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE (MKKOL SMT sold by NIKKO) 0.70 0.70 B OEEYL ERUCATE (CEUOL J 600 sold by BASF) Z 50 7.50 Mother-of-pearl? 0.14 0.14 C15-19 ALKANE (EMOGREENL15 sold by SEPPIO) 7.50 7.50 C GLYCERIN 20.00 20.00 D AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIWTHYL'IAURAWVP COPOLYMER (ARSTOFLEX AVC sold by CLARIANT) 03? 0.3 5 E WATER 0.98 0.98 CHRIC ACID 0.02 0.02 F Nacre 035 0.35 LAUROYL LYSINE (AMIHOPEIX sold by AJINOMOTO) 1.50 - F SILICA SILYLATE (DOWSH. VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES sold by DOW CORNING) - 1.50 Preparation protocol

[0184] In a tank, the components of phase A are heated to 75°C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained under a magnetic stir bar without turbine operation. At 75°C, phase A is turbined for 10 minutes (3500 rpm). To this heated mixture, the components of phase B, heated to 75°C under a magnetic stir bar and turbined for 10 minutes (3500 rpm), are added. Glycerin is added to this mixture and it is cooled. The mixture is stirred and vacuum-sealed up to 40°C (3500 rpm). The components of phase D are then added under stirring and vacuum, followed by the components of the other phases.

[0185] Finally, a final homogenization phase is carried out up to a temperature of 30°C, still under agitation and under vacuum, if necessary by reducing the turbine. EXAMPLE 2 Results

[0186] The stability and sensory effect of compositions II and Cl were evaluated. The results on stability are reported in Table 2 below.

[0187] [Tables2] Stability II (ioveution) Cl (excluding iaveatioB) STABILITY 24 Appearance, color, odor Appearance, color, odor hours Pink crepe Soft cream, pink Viscosity Viscosity Viscosity (Mobile 3) = Viscosity (Mobile 3) = T30 sec = 2.62 Pa.s: Tltaifî=2.57 T3& seo=0.099' Pa.s : Pa.s Tl 0 mm=0.098 Pa.s ëH pH= 6.3 pH=6A Optical microscopy: Optical microscopy: Microscopy (X10): Fine emulsion and' Microscopy (XW): Tight fine emulsion, sharp edges. and tight, sharp edges. Anisatropy es Polarized light Anisotropy (mottled) ea Polarized light STABILITY IM 4GGTA (25°C) CONFORMS CONFORMS / 45°C Appearance, Colour Q: conforms Appearance-Colour Odour: conforms Optical microscopy: conforms Optical microscopy: conforms STABILITY 2M CONFORMS NON-CONFORMS 4°GTA (25°) Appearance-Colour Odour: conforms Appearance-Colour / Odor conforms Optical microscopy: conforms. Optical microscopy: non-conforms Viscosity conforms Viscosity conforms Viscosity (mobile 3): T30sec = 2.24 at TA (25°Q: Pa.s: TW min = 236 Pa.s Viscosity (mobile 3): T30sec = at 45°C (cooled to TA 25°C before 4.03 Pa.s: Tl û min = 4.03 Pa.s viscosity measurement); Viscosity ri 45°C (cooled to TA 25°C before (mobile 3) = T30sec = 3.12 Pa.s; T10 viscosity measurement): min = 2.66 + <w Viscosité (mobile 3) : T30sec = 4,03 Pa.s : TW mm = 3,56 Pas pli pH à TA (25^0) = 6.4 pH pH à TA (25-0) = 6,6 .

[0188] In conclusion, only the composition according to invention II is stable after 2 months, whether at 4°C, at room temperature or at 45°C. Indeed, it is compliant in terms of appearance, color, odor, viscosity and pH.

[0189] After 1 month, the composition outside the invention Cl comprising silica silylate instead of lauroyl lysine is thicker (compact cream) whereas the composition according to the invention is more flexible.

[0190] Moreover, after 2 months, the composition outside the invention Cl shows a non-conformity on the microscopic aspect (strong anisotropy observed).

[0191] Regarding sensory evaluation, a panel of 10 experts participated in this study based on tactile and visual assessment. The compositions were applied to the back of the hand.

[0192] Composition II according to the invention is estimated to provide a good emollient effect and a good oily effect during application to the skin and in skin finish (i.e. not rough) compared to the composition outside the invention Cl which is drier during and after application.

[0193] Furthermore, composition II according to the invention is described as glossy and / or satin compared to composition outside the invention Cl which has a matte finish.

[0194] The presence of a non-silicone filler such as lauroyl lysine in a composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous compared to the sole presence in the comparative composition of a silicee filler such as silica silylate. EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of compositions

[0195] Compositions according to the invention (I 2) and (I 3) have been prepared. These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 3 below, in the amounts expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] [Tables3] Phase Compound II 13 A WATER Qsp 100 A CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4.50 4.50 Preservative 0.50 0.50 A CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 POLY C 1.30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 0.57 M8 A Chelating Agent QA5 0.25 A SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE (NIKKOL SMT sold by NIKKO) 0.50 0.50 B: OCTYLDODECANOL 1.50 - S OLEIL ERUCATE (CETYL J 690 sold by BASF) 5.00 5.00 CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID 0.045 - B HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIE 1.00 100 B C15-O ALKANE (EMOGREEN LIS Sold by SEPPIC) 5.00 5.00 C GLYCERIN 20.00 29.00 D XANTHAN GHM aw 040 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.10 0.10 D AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (AMSTOFLEX HMS' sold by CLARIANTJ 0.50 0.50 E HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 4.30 4J0 E SODIUM DHAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE. 0.35 0.35 E CITRIC ACID 0.02 F NIACINAMIDE 3.00 - G SILICA SILYLATE (DOWSIL VM-.2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES sold by the DOW CORNING sod) 0.14 0,® G CELLULOSE (CELLULOBEADS USE sold by the DAI company.TO KASEIKOGYO) 0.70 0.47 G Mother-of-pearl ■7 - H ALCOHOL DENAT. 3.00 3.00 H MENTHOL M5 0.15 . Preparation protocol

[0197] The same protocol used in example 1 is used in this example.

[0198] Compositions (I 2) and (I 3) exhibit good emollience during and after application, and are oily (i.e. not or only slightly rough) and shiny and / or satiny in skin finish.

Claims

Demands

1. A composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18; (b) at least one anionic surfactant having a C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, hydrocarbon chain, selected from surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH2)nSO3M in which R represents a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched in C16-C22; Y represents -O- or -NRr with Ri representing a linear or branched alkyl group in C1-C3; M is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, the ammonium group, and organic amines; n is an integer from 1 to 3;(c) at least one non-siliconized oil, and (d) at least one non-siliconized filler selected from lauroyl lysine, boron nitride, cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof, said at least one non-siliconized oil being present in an amount of between 8% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising one or more polyols present in an amount of between 15% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the saturated fatty alcohol(s) are selected from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (Ci6), stearyl alcohol or octadecanol (Ci8), behenic alcohol (C22) which are solid at room temperature and advantageously have a -OH group at the end of the chain.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 wherein the saturated fatty alcohol(s) are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 comprising a mixture of fatty alcohols in Ci6 and Ci8, preferably in a Ci6 / Ci8 mass ratio ranging from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a Ck / Cis mass ratio of 50 / 50.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the amount of fatty alcohols is between 2.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 8% by weight, and even more preferably between 2.7% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, with M corresponding to Na.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the surfactant(s) of formula (I) comprising a C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are present in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the mass ratio of fatty alcohols (a) / anionic surfactants (b) is between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3, and even more preferably between 9:1 and 4:

1.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the non-siliconized oil(s) are selected from branched or linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters of formula RiCOOR2, wherein Ri represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, fatty amides,Liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature with branched and possibly unsaturated carbon chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, higher fatty acids in the C19-C22 range, carbonates and mixtures thereof; in particular among oleyl erucate, branched or linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof; more particularly among oleyl erucate, a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the non-siliconized oil(s) are present in an amount of between 9% and 25% by weight, more preferably between 10% and 15% by weight of non-siliconized oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the non-siliconized filler(s) are selected from lauroyl lysine, cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the non-siliconized filler(s) are present in an amount of between 0.1% and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.2% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.4% and 8.0% by weight, preferably between 0.4% and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 wherein the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

14. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 wherein the polyol(s) are present in an amount of between 15% and 60% by weight, and more preferably between 20% and 50% by weight, better between 15% and 40% by weight, and even better between 15% and 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 2% by weight, of preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably is free from silicone compounds.

17. A cosmetic treatment process for keratinous material in which a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to the keratinous material.

18. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.