Cosmetic composition including niacinamide, ginger root extract, a carboxylic acrylic polymer, an anti-hair loss active ingredient and / or an anti-dandruff active ingredient
The cosmetic composition with niacinamide, ginger root extract, and carboxylic acrylic polymers addresses usability issues in hair loss treatments by providing a residue-free, effective solution for hair regrowth and dandruff treatment, enhancing hair strength and appearance.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2022-12-16
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic treatments for hair loss and dandruff often have usability issues such as stickiness, greasiness, and powdery residue, leading to discontinuation and ineffective hair loss prevention or regrowth due to poor adherence to daily application routines.
A cosmetic composition comprising niacinamide, ginger root extract, carboxylic acrylic polymers, and anti-hair loss/anti-dandruff active ingredients, which provides a gelled texture without stickiness or residue, ensuring effective hair loss prevention and regrowth while maintaining a satisfactory visual appearance.
The composition effectively prevents hair loss, promotes hair regrowth, and treats dandruff without greasy or sticky effects, enhancing keratin fiber strength and diameter while providing smoothness and shine.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising nia-cinamide, ginger root extract, a carboxylic acrylic polymer, an anti-hair loss active ingredient and / or an anti-dandruff active ingredient
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising nia-cinamide, a ginger root extract, at least one carboxylic acrylic polymer, at least one anti-hair loss active ingredient and / or at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient.
[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for human keratinous materials such as skin, in particular scalp, hair and / or eyelashes, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
[0003] The present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition to treat hair loss, and / or promote the regrowth of keratin fibers.
[0004] The present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for cosmetically treating dandruff.
[0005] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as human hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and / or body hair, including beard, mustache and pubic hair, and skin, including the scalp and areas of skin, particularly alopecic or non-alopecic areas, preferably alopecic, covered with keratinous fibers as mentioned above. More particularly, the invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of human hair and / or eyelashes and / or skin, preferably hair and / or scalp.
[0006] Hair growth and renewal in humans are primarily determined by the activity of hair follicles and their dermo-epidermal environment. Their activity is cyclical and essentially comprises three phases: the anagen phase, the catagen phase, and the telogen phase.
[0007] The anagen phase (corresponding to the active or growth phase), which lasts several years and during which the hair lengthens, is followed by a very short and transient catagen phase lasting a few weeks. During this phase, the hair undergoes a transformation, the follicle atrophies, and its dermal implantation appears increasingly higher.
[0008] The terminal phase, which lasts a few months, corresponds to a resting phase, called the telogen phase. At the end of this resting period, the hairs fall out and make way for new hair follicles in the anagen phase so that another hair cycle can begin.
[0009] Hair is therefore constantly renewing itself, and of the approximately 150,000 hairs in a head of hair, at any given moment, about 10% of them are at rest and will therefore be replaced in a few months.
[0010] Alopecia refers to the accelerated loss of hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and / or body hair. It generally occurs in genetically predisposed individuals and primarily affects men. This is known as androgenetic alopecia.
[0011] Alopecia is essentially due to a disruption of hair renewal, which initially leads to an acceleration of the cycle frequency at the expense of hair quality and then its quantity. This results in a progressive thinning of the hair through the regression of so-called "terminal" hairs to the vellus stage. Certain areas are preferentially affected; in men, in particular, the temporal or frontal hairline and the upper part of the occipital region, while in women, diffuse alopecia of the vertex is more common.
[0012] Other causes can lead to significant hair loss, whether temporary or permanent. These include hair loss and alteration after pregnancy (or postpartum), during periods of malnutrition or dietary imbalances, or during periods of asthenia or hormonal dysfunction, such as may occur during or after menopause. Hair loss or alteration may also be related to seasonal phenomena.
[0013] Alopecia can also affect eyelashes, eyebrows and / or hair on any part of the human body and can cause aesthetic discomfort in the same way as alopecia affecting one or more areas of the scalp.
[0014] People thus subject to alopecia are increasingly resorting to cosmetic treatments to suppress and / or reduce the effect of alopecia, and in particular to decrease or delay the loss of hair, eyelashes and / or body hair, as well as to induce or stimulate their growth.
[0015] Such treatments generally consist of daily applications to the various alopecic areas of the human body, in particular to the alopecic areas of the scalp, such as the temporal or frontal temples in men, or to the areas of the body without hair, in particular on the face, including the beard, moustache and / or eyebrows, of cosmetic compositions comprising one or more anti-hair loss agents and / or agents capable of promoting regrowth.
[0016] For this purpose, agents capable of reducing the loss and / or promoting the regrowth of keratin fibers can be cited in particular as agents such as minoxidil, finasteride, aminexil or even stemoxydine.
[0017] The duration of these treatments generally varies from several weeks to several months, or even can extend over years, and their long-term effectiveness depends most on often depends on the diligence observed by the user in regularly applying cosmetic compositions to the areas to be treated, which can be more or less extensive.
[0018] The implementation of treatments capable of reducing hair loss and / or promoting the regrowth of hair, eyelashes and / or body hair may take several weeks before the desired effects can be observed, in particular slowing down alopecia.
[0019] These treatments must be used daily to achieve pronounced effectiveness.
[0020] However, these compositions still too often present numerous drawbacks in use which can have a negative impact on the cosmetic treatment to be followed, potentially leading to a more or less rapid abandonment of the treatment and, consequently, to weak results in terms of limiting, or even suppressing, alopecia.
[0021] Indeed, many compositions include gelling agents to prevent the composition from running onto the face, into the eyes, or down the neck. However, the use of gelling agents, particularly with daily use, leads to the aggregation of keratin fibers, resulting in a sticky effect on the hair that is unacceptable to consumers.
[0022] To improve the effectiveness of these treatments, it may be necessary to increase the quantities of active ingredients, which can lead to difficulties in solubilizing the active ingredients and, during use, the formation of visible powders on the keratin fibers and scalp. This powdery effect is also unacceptable to consumers. Anti-hair loss lotions must be used daily to achieve significant effectiveness. Some consumers wash their hair every day, and in this case, the products previously applied to the scalp are washed away. Most consumers do not wash their hair every day, so the product applied on the second day adds to the product applied on the first day. This is known as a cumulative effect. In the context of repeated application without washing the scalp, the appearance of powder may be present from the first day, and more often on the second day.This appearance of powder results from the precipitation of the solid compounds in the formula during the evaporation of the solvent.
[0023] As a result, the insufficient usability of these compositions may in the long run discourage users from diligently following cosmetic treatments for hair loss and / or regrowth, especially since the effectiveness of these treatments is mainly linked to the daily regularity of the implementation of the compositions described above on the areas to be treated for several weeks, or even several months.
[0024] In other words, a lack of diligence or too rapid discontinuation of treatment most often leads to poor results in terms of anti-hair loss efficacy and / or regrowth and, consequently, dissatisfaction. This reinforces disappointment among consumers who do not have the time to observe the progress and / or long-term effectiveness of these treatments.
[0025] There is therefore a real need to overcome the aforementioned drawbacks, particularly by implementing a composition capable of cosmetically and effectively treating the loss of human keratin fibers such as hair, body hair, and / or eyelashes, and / or promoting their regrowth, with improved usability while ensuring, in particular, a satisfactory visual result, notably without a greasy or sticky effect and without residue. This composition must also allow for repeated application, i.e., allow for daily use of the composition.
[0026] This objective is achieved by the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising: i) niacinamide, ii) an extract of ginger root, iii) one or more carboxylic acrylic polymers, iv) one or more anti-hair loss actives and / or one or more anti-dandruff actives, v) optionally one or more hydroxylated compounds having a melting point below 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) (e.g. they are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure) and a boiling point greater than or equal to 170°C, preferably chosen from hydroxylated compounds consisting of a C2-C8 hydrocarbon chain possibly interrupted by an oxygen atom and comprising 1 to 2 free hydroxylated groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms.
[0027] The cosmetic composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a gelled texture which thus avoids dripping, but without producing a greasy or sticky effect on the fibers.
[0028] The cosmetic composition of the invention does not cause the product to transfer onto the fingers during application or throughout the day. Thus, the fingers are not greasy or sticky when using the composition.
[0029] The cosmetic composition according to the invention also has improved performance qualities by making it possible to avoid the powdery effect and / or aggregation of keratin fibers, in particular in the context of repeated application required by frequent use.
[0030] The cosmetic composition according to the invention also provides complete satisfaction in terms of its effectiveness in preventing hair loss and / or promoting the regrowth of keratin fibers and / or reducing dandruff. Furthermore, it has a beneficial effect on increasing the diameter of keratin fibers and strengthening them against breakage.
[0031] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide the keratin fibers good cosmetic properties, especially conditioning properties, particularly in terms of shine, suppleness, suppleness, and smoothness to the touch.
[0032] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for human keratinous materials such as skin, in particular scalp, hair and / or eyelashes, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
[0033] The present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition to treat hair loss, and / or promote the regrowth of keratin fibers and / or cosmetically treat dandruff.
[0034] By dandruff treatment, we mean a cosmetic treatment of dandruff, in particular delaying or preventing its appearance.
[0035] The present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition to increase the diameter of keratin fibers and / or strengthen keratin fibers against breakage.
[0036] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0037] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0038] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0039] i) Niacinamide The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide).
[0040] Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.
[0041] Preferably, the total niacinamide content is from 1 to 5% by weight, preferably typically from 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, better from 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0042] ii) Ginger root extract The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises a ginger root extract (INCI name: Zingiber officinale root extract).
[0043] Ginger root extract may be in the form of a ground product, powder or liquid, preferably in liquid form.
[0044] Ginger root extract can in particular be obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction from fragments of ginger root, for example from ginger root powder.
[0045] The total ginger root extract content preferably ranges from 0.02 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 0.3% by weight, better from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] iii) Carboxylic acrylic polymers The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more carboxylic acrylic polymers.
[0047] The carboxylic acrylic polymer(s) may be chosen from associative polymers, non-associative polymers, and mixtures thereof, preferably from associative polymers. Thus, preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more associative carboxylic acrylic polymers.
[0048] For the purposes of this invention, acrylic polymer means a polymer comprising at least one motif derived from an α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, its derivatives and / or its salts, preferably chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, their derivatives and / or their salts.
[0049] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0050] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0051] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or hydrocarbon chain polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0052] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, or behenic alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.
[0053] Among the associative carboxylic acrylic polymers that can be used in the present invention, the following may be mentioned in particular:
[0054] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif, and at least one ether motif of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif is made up of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly still of a vinylic carboxylic acid and especially of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0055] Among these polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as phthalate. diallyl, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.
[0056] Among these, crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, especially those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are aqueous emulsions at 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0057] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
[0058] Alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, behenyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate, behenyl methacrylate.
[0059] Polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
[0060] Among this type of polymer, we will use more particularly those consisting of 60 to 95% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4 to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic motif), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 96 to 98% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1 to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic motif), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above.
[0061] Among the aforementioned polymers, the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI®, and the product sold by SEPPIC under the name COATEX SX®, are particularly preferred according to the present invention.
[0062] We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.
[0063] - (c) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
[0064] i) approximately 20 to 70% by weight of an unsaturated α,[3-monoethylenic [α],
[0065] ii) approximately 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturation monomer other than [α],
[0066] iii) approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenic unsaturation monoisocyanate,
[0067] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40OE) in 25% aqueous dispersion.
[0068] - (d) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid with saturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an ester of carboxylic acid with unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0069] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic acid and alcohol in Ci-C4.
[0070] As an example of this type of compound, one can cite ACULYN 22®, sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88, also sold by ROHM and HAAS. Another example is NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER, sold by LUBRIZOL, with the INCI name ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.
[0071] Preferably, the carboxylic acrylic polymer(s) are chosen from associative carboxylic acrylic polymers, more preferably from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylened fatty alcohol, in particular an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and a Ci0-C24 alcohol, preferably a Ci5-C24, oxyalkylened, in particular oxyethylened, in particular those also comprising as a monomer an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and a Ci-C4 alcohol, more preferably the carboxylic acrylic polymer is ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.
[0072] Preferably, the total content of the carboxylic acrylic polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, and better from 0.3 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] Preferably, the total content of the associative carboxylic acrylic polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, and better from 0.3 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] iv) Anti-hair loss and anti-dandruff active ingredients The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more anti-hair loss agents and / or one or more anti-dandruff agents. Said anti-hair loss agents and anti-dandruff agents (iv) are different from the compounds previously described.
[0075] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anti-hair loss active ingredients.
[0076] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anti-dandruff active ingredients.
[0077] In a particularly preferred manner, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anti-hair loss actives and one or more anti-dandruff actives.
[0078] The term "anti-hair loss agent" means any compound that promotes the growth of keratin fibers and / or increases their density, and / or limits their loss.
[0079] Preferably, the anti-hair loss agent is an anti-hair loss agent for human keratin fibers, such as human hair, body hair and / or eyelashes.
[0080] Preferably, the anti-hair loss agent is an anti-hair loss agent for human hair and / or eyelashes, and more preferably for hair.
[0081] Thus the agent is more preferentially an agent promoting hair growth and / or increasing hair density, and / or limiting hair loss.
[0082] The anti-hair loss active ingredient(s) may be chosen from the following compounds, as well as mixtures thereof:
[0083] (A) 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic acid salts or mineral and / or one of its hydrates.
[0084] 2,4-Diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide (INCI: Diaminopyrimidine oxide) corresponds to the following formula:
[0085] Among the usable organic or mineral acid salts, hydrochlorides, sulfates, citrates, and acetates may be mentioned in particular. Monohydrate may be mentioned in particular as a hydrate.
[0086] Preferably, the unsalted compound is used in the form of monohydrate.
[0087] (B) 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine 3-N-oxide and / or one of its acid salts organic or mineral and / or one of its hydrates.
[0088] 2,4-Diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine 3-N-oxide (or Minoxidil) corresponds to the following formula:
[0089] (C) pyridine dicarboxylic acid esters and / or their salts;
[0090] The pyridine dicarboxylic acid esters correspond to the formula (I) below: COOR. c> COOR. ■ ■ : 1 in which Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated (including alkyl); or a C6-C18 aryl radical; said aliphatic hydrocarbon or aryl radicals being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from OH, NH2, -OR, -OCOR and -NHR with R representing a Cl-Cl8 alkyl group; it being understood that at least one of the groups Ri and R2 is other than a hydrogen atom.
[0091] Preferably, the COORi and COOR2 substituents are at positions 2 and 3, or 2 and 4, respectively, of the pyridine ring. Preferably, they are at positions 2 and 4.
[0092] Preferably, the compounds conform to the formula (la): CO OR2 1(ia) in which Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (including alkyl) C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical; or a C6-C18 aryl radical; said aliphatic hydrocarbon or aryl radicals being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from OH, NH2, -OR, -OCOR and -NHR with R representing a C1-C18 alkyl group, at least one of the groups Ri and R2 being different from a hydrogen atom.
[0093] Preferably, in formulas (I) and (la), the aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, Specifically, an alkyl radical, in the Cl-Cl₈ configuration, is an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, specifically an alkyl radical, in the C1-C10 configuration, particularly in the C1-C6 configuration, such as methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl, isopropyl, and hexyl. This aliphatic hydrocarbon radical may also contain at least one carbon-carbon double or triple bond, such as -CH=CH₂, -CH₂-CH=CH-CH₃, and -CH₂-C=CH.
[0094] The aryl radical can represent the phenyl or naphthyl radical.
[0095] In particular, in formulas (I) and (la), Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, in particular alkyl, linear or branched, in C1-C18, better in C1-C10, or even in C1-C6, possibly substituted by an alkoxy or acyloxy group (OR or OCOR with R denoting an alkyl radical in C1-C18), at least one of the groups Ri and R2 being different from a hydrogen atom.
[0096] Preferably, Ri and R2 are identical.
[0097] Preferably, Ri and R2 are identical and represent a saturated and linear alkyl radical in Cl-Cl8, preferably in Cl-CIO, and even better in C1-C6; and most particularly an ethyl radical.
[0098] The following compounds of formula (I) may be cited in particular: - dimethyl pyridine-2,4-dicarboxylate, - dimethyl pyridine-2,3-dicarboxylate, - diethyl pyridine-2,4-dicarboxylate, - diethyl pyridine-2,3-dicarboxylate, - diethyl pyridine-2,5-dicarboxylate, - dimethyl pyridine-2,5-dicarboxylate, - diisopropyl pyridine-2,4-dicarboxylate, - di(acetyloxymethyl) pyridine-2,4-dicarboxylate (derived from formula (I) such that Ri and R2 represent -CH2-O-COCH3).
[0099] According to the invention, the salts of compounds of formula (I) are understood to be the organic or mineral salts of a compound of formula (I), these salts being physiologically acceptable. Examples of mineral salts include sodium or potassium salts, as well as salts of zinc (Zn2+), calcium (Ca2+), copper (Cu2+), iron (Fe2+), strontium (Sr2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and manganese (Mn2+); hydroxides, carbonates, and chlorides. Examples of organic salts include triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, hexadecylamine, N,N,N',N'-tetrakis-(hydroxypropyl-2)ethylenediamine, and tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane.
[0100] (D) Other potentially usable anti-hair loss agents include the O-acylated derivatives obtained by partial or total esterification of vitamin F with glucose, nicotinic acid esters, menthol and its derivatives, and in particular men- thoxypropanediol, vitamins such as vitamin D, vitamin B12 analogues, panthenol, vitamin B8, biotin (vitamin H).
[0101] Preferably, the anti-hair loss active ingredient(s) is chosen from 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic or mineral acid salts and / or one of its hydrates, more preferably the anti-hair loss active ingredient is 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide in monohydrate form.
[0102] When present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of anti-hair loss actives iv) is preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5%, more preferably still from 0.2 to 4%, from 0.5 to 3% and better from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] When present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic or mineral acid salts and / or one of its hydrates is preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5%, even better from 0.2 to 4%, then from 0.5 to 3%, and preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] When present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the content of 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its hydrates, in particular monohydrate, ranges from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5%, even better from 0.2 to 4%, from 0.5 to 3% and preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] The term "anti-dandruff active ingredient" means any compound that prevents or limits excessive and visible flaking of the scalp.
[0106] The anti-dandruff active ingredient(s) may be chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:
[0107] (A) l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives:
[0108] The l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives are preferably chosen from compounds of formula (Al) or their salts: OH (Al) R 3 in which: - RI designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, particularly at C6-C12; a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms carbon; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or one or more alkoxy groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R2 designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group; - R3 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group; and - R4 designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group.
[0109] Preferably, R2=R4=H.
[0110] Preferably, R3 = methyl.
[0111] Preferably, RI is a C6-C12 branched alkyl radical.
[0112] Among these compounds, l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(lH)-pyridone and 6-cyclohexyl-l-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-(lH)-pyridone are preferred.
[0113] Among the usable salts, we can mention the salts of lower alkanolamines (C1-C4) such as ethanolamine and diethanolamine, the salts of amine or alkylamine, as well as salts with inorganic cations such as ammonium salts, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts.
[0114] Particularly preferred is the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or octopirox).
[0115] (B) Ellagic acid and its derivatives:
[0116] Ellagic acid, or 2,3,7,8-tetra-hydroxy(l)-benzopyrano(5,4,3-cde)(l) Benzopyran-5,10-dione is a well-known molecule found in the plant kingdom. See the Merck Index, 20th edition (1996), no. 3588.
[0117] Ellagic acid has the following chemical formula: which comprises four adjoining cycles.
[0118] The ellagic acid ether(s) usable according to the invention are preferably chosen from among the mono-, di-, tri- or polyethers obtained by etherification of one or more hydroxyl groups (one of the four OH groups of ellagic acid) of ellagic acid into one or more OR groups, R being chosen from among the C2-C20 alkyl groups, the polyoxyalkylene groups and in particular polyoxyethylenes and / or polyoxypropylenes, and the groups derived from one or more mono or polysaccharides such as for example the group of the following formula: CH-O H H .1 q H..Ü--------O-----CH,
[0119] In the case of di-, tri- or polyethers of ellagic acid, the R groups as defined above may be identical or different.
[0120] Preferably these ellagic acid ethers are chosen from 3,4-di-O-methyl ellagic acid, 3,3',4-tri-O-methyl ellagic acid and 3,3'-di-O-methyl ellagic acid.
[0121] The salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or its ethers usable according to the invention are preferably selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts such as triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, arginine, and lysine salts. Preferably, the salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or its ethers usable according to the invention are selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, in particular sodium, potassium, calcium, or magnesium salts.
[0122] (C) Pyrithione and its derivatives:
[0123] Pyrithione is the compound l-Hydroxy-2(lH)-pyridinethione or 2-pyridinethiol-1-oxide.
[0124] Pyrithione salts that may be used in the context of the invention include monovalent and divalent metal salts such as sodium, calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin, and zirconium salts. Divalent metal salts, and in particular zinc pyrithione, are especially preferred.
[0125] (D) selenium (poly)sulfides, among which we may mention selenium disulfide Selenium and selenium polysulfides of the formula SexSy, where x and y are numbers between 1 and 7, and such that x+y=8. Selenium disulfide is in powder form, the particles of which generally have a particle size of less than 200 pm, preferably less than 25 pm.
[0126] Preferably, the anti-dandruff active ingredient is chosen from the derivatives of l-hydroxy-2-pyridone of formula (Al) or their salts, more preferably, the anti-dandruff active ingredient is the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or octopirox).
[0127] Preferably, the total content of anti-dandruff actives iv) ranges from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1%, more preferably still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] Preferably, the total piroctone olamine content is from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1%, more preferably still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more anti-hair loss actives selected from 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic or mineral acid salts and / or one of its hydrates.
[0130] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises piroctone olamine as an anti-dandruff active ingredient.
[0131] In a particularly preferred manner, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more anti-hair loss actives selected from 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic or mineral acid salts and / or one of its hydrates and piroctone olamine as an anti-dandruff active.
[0132] v) Hydroxylated compounds The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more hydroxylated compounds (v) having a melting point below 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (e.g., they are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure) and a boiling point greater than or equal to 170°C.
[0133] Preferably, said hydroxylated compounds v) consist of a C2-C8 hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and comprising 1 to 2 free hydroxylated groups (-OH) carried on different carbon atoms.
[0134] These compounds can be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0135] Preferably, the hydroxylated compound(s) v) are chosen from linear C2-C8 diols, preferably C2-C6, or aromatic monoalcohols in C6-C8, preferably C7-C8, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the hydroxylated compound(s) v) are chosen from linear C2-C8 diols, preferably C2-C6.
[0136] In particular, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane-1,3 diol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol (phenylethyl alcohol), dipropylene glycol, and more preferably the hydroxylated compound v) is propylene glycol.
[0137] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of hydroxylated compounds v) is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of hydroxylated compounds v) ranges from 1 to 15% by weight, better from 1.5 to 10%, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 2.1 to 6% by weight, better 2.2 to 5%, even better 2.3 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of hydroxylated compounds v) selected from linear C2-C8 diols is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, better from 1 to 15%, preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 2.1 to 6% by weight, better from 2.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 2.3 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of propylene glycol is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, better from 1 to 15%, preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 2.1 to 6% by weight, better from 2.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 2.3 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] vi) Solvents The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more organic solvents different from the hydroxylated compounds v) previously described.
[0142] These organic solvents are preferably chosen from C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably C2-C4. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
[0143] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more organic solvents different from the hydroxylated compounds v) previously described, preferably one or more C2-C4 monoalcohols, better ethanol.
[0144] When present, the total content of organic solvents other than the hydroxylated compounds v) is preferably from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] When the composition includes ethanol, the ethanol content is preferably from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] The composition is preferably aqueous, the water content being from 10 to 90% by weight, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 40 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] Additives The composition may also include one or more additives different from the compounds previously described, such as those selected from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives and ceramides.
[0148] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).
[0149] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] Process The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for human keratinous materials such as skin, in particular scalp, hair and / or eyelashes, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition as defined above.
[0151] The composition according to the present invention is preferably applied topically, in particular on the scalp and / or hair.
[0152] The application of the composition may or may not be followed by rinsing after a possible waiting period.
[0153] Preferably, the application of the composition according to the invention is not followed by rinsing.
[0154] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment process is a hair and / or scalp care process.
[0155] The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above to treat the loss, and / or promote the regrowth, of keratin fibers, and / or cosmetically treat dandruff.
[0156] The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above to increase the diameter of keratin fibers and / or strengthen keratin fibers against breakage.
[0157] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0158] Examples In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).
[0159] Example 1 Composition A according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (in % MA):
[0160] [Tables 1] Composition A (invention) Copolymer Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate 0.45 Propylene glycol 2.5 Castor oil PEG-40 0.1 Ethanol 27 Piroctone olamine 0.25 Diaminopyrimidine oxide 1.5 Ginger root extract 0.1 Niacinamide 3 Parfum 0.4 Water q.s. 100 Example 2
[0161] a) Compositions Compositions B (according to the present invention) and B' (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below:
[0162] [Tables2] Composition B (invention) Composition B' (comparative) Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Copolymer Methacrylate 0.45 - Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate - 0.45 Propylene glycol 2.5 2.5 PEG-40 Castor Oil 0.3 0.3 Ethanol 28 28 Piroctone olamine 0.25 0.25 Diaminopyrimidine oxide 1.5 1.5 Ginger Root Extract 0.1 0.1 Niacinamide 3 3 Fragrance 0.4 0.4 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0163] b) Protocol Strands of 5.4g (27cm) of natural Caucasian type hair (HT4 Type 2) are pre-washed with DOP shampoo (at a rate of 1.5g of shampoo per strand). The strands are then wet 10 times under the tap between 2 fingers and then wrung out 2 times between 2 fingers before being combed with a wide-tooth comb (2 times) and then a small-tooth comb (2 times). Compositions B (according to the invention) and B' (comparative) are then applied by hand, at a rate of 0.4g per 5.4g strand, and distributed throughout the entire strand. The strands are then combed with a fine-toothed comb (once) and smoothed by hand before being blow-dried with room-temperature air.
[0164] c) Results Three experts blindly assess the visual greasiness and stickiness to the touch of the treated strands, as well as the deposit on the fingers (product transfer): - Visually shiny: the fibers are visually glossy and stuck together, - sticky appearance: the fibers are stuck together, - deposit on fingers: when passing fingers through the wicks, residue is observed on the fingers.
[0165] The strands treated with composition B' (comparative) are visually greasier and stickier than the strands treated with composition B according to the invention.
[0166] In addition, the strands treated with composition B' (comparative) transfer more product onto the fingers than those treated with composition B according to the invention.
[0167] Thus, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain strands that are less greasy and less sticky and that transfer less product onto the fingers.
Claims
Demands
1. Cosmetic composition comprising: i) niacinamide, ii) ginger root extract, iii) one or more carboxylic acrylic polymers, iv) one or more anti-hair loss actives and / or one or more anti-dandruff actives, v) optionally one or more hydroxylated compounds having a melting point below 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) and a boiling point above or equal to 170°C, preferably selected from hydroxylated compounds consisting of a C2-C8 hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and comprising 1 to 2 free hydroxylated groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total niacinamide content is from 1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of ginger root extract is from 0.02 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 0.3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carboxylic acrylic polymer(s) are selected from associative carboxylic acrylic polymers, preferably from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol, in particular an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated, in particular oxyethylenated, alcohol in the form of C10-C24, preferably C15-C24, in the form of an oxyalkylated alcohol, in particular an oxyethylenated alcohol, in particular those also comprising as a monomer an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol, more preferably the carboxylic acrylic polymer being ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, ca- characterized in that the total content of the carboxylic acrylic polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, better from 0.3 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anti-hair loss active ingredient(s) (iv) are selected from 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic or mineral acid salts and / or one of its hydrates, 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine 3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic or mineral acid salts and / or one of its hydrates, pyridine dicarboxylic acid esters and / or their salts, O-acylated derivatives obtained by partial or total esterification of vitamin F with glucose, nicotinic acid esters, menthol and its derivatives, and in particular menthoxypropanediol, vitamins such as vitamin D, vitamin B12 analogues, panthenol, vitamin B8, biotin (vitamin H), preferably from 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide and / or one of its organic or mineral acid salts and / or one of its hydrates, more preferably the anti-hair loss active is 2,4-Diaminopyrimidine-3-N-oxide in monohydrate form.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anti-hair loss active ingredient(s) (iv) ranges from 0.05 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, more preferably from 0.2 to 4%, from 0.5 to 3% and more preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anti-dandruff active ingredient(s) iv) are selected from l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives, ellagic acid and its derivatives, pyrithione and its derivatives, selenium (poly)sulfides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives, selenium (poly)sulfides, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives of formula (Al) or their salts:
9.
10. OH (Al) I CK JK .RI X ï R4 R2 R 3 in which: -RI denotes hydrogen atony; an alkyl group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, especially at C6-C12; a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above can be substituted by one or more alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or one or more alkoxy groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R2 designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group; - R3 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group; and - R4 designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anti-dandruff active ingredient is the monoethano-nolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anti-dandruff active ingredient(s) iv) ranges from 0.05 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxylated compound(s) v) are selected from linear C2-C8, better C2-C6 diols, or aromatic monoalcohols in C6-C8, better C7-C8, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from linear C2-C8, better C2-C6 diols, more preferably still from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane-1,3 diol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol (phenylethyl alcohol), dipropylene glycol, and better the hydroxylated compound v) is propylene glycol.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) v) is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10%, more preferably still from 2 to 8% by weight, better from 2.1 to 6% by weight, better still from 2.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 2.3 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more organic solvents different from compounds v), preferably selected from C1-C5 monoalcohols, preferably C2-C4 monoalcohols, more preferably ethanol.
14. A cosmetic treatment process for human keratinous materials such as skin, in particular scalp, hair and / or eyelashes, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
15. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 to treat the loss, and / or promote the regrowth, of keratin fibers and / or cosmetically treat dandruff.