BIPHASIC COMPOSITION AND ITS PROCESSES

Abstract

BIPHASIC COMPOSITION AND ITS PROCESSES This disclosure relates to a biphasic composition for removing makeup, cleansing, and conditioning a keratin layer, comprising: (i) an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active ingredient; (d) at least one anti-dullness active ingredient; and (e) water; and (ii) an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Biphasic composition and its processes. Scope of the invention.

[0001] This disclosure relates to the field of cosmetic and personal care products. This disclosure relates in particular to a two-phase cleansing composition for removing makeup, cleansing or conditioning a keratin layer. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Generally, people are eager to invest long hours applying heavy, waterproof makeup to achieve a flawless look. However, they often hesitate to invest even a minimal amount of time in removing their makeup at the end of the day. Yet, the foundation of flawless skin is maintaining a clean and unclogged complexion. Therefore, consumers are constantly searching for cosmetic products that can effectively and quickly remove makeup.

[0003] Cleansers are products commonly used to cleanse the skin. While these traditional facial cleansers are sufficient to remove excess sebum and dirt, they are not effective at removing makeup, especially waterproof makeup. Furthermore, these cleansers are harsh on sensitive and acne-prone skin. An alternative to traditional cleansers is biphasic cleansing compositions, also known as micellar water in the consumer market.

[0004] Micellar water products primarily contain water with an optimized ratio of exfoliating agents to remove all types of water-resistant makeup and dirt. Such products on the consumer market also claim to offer additional benefits such as hydrated and radiant skin after use. However, so-called multipurpose micellar water products tend to cause skin irritation due to the presence of large quantities of exfoliating agents and leave the skin feeling sticky due to the presence of undesirable amounts of oil-phase ingredients.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need to develop biphasic compositions with a desired quantity of aqueous and oily phase ingredients to achieve effective makeup removal and also to ensure nourished and more radiant skin after use, while being suitable for all skin types. Summary of the invention

[0006] In one aspect of this disclosure, a biphasic composition is proposed comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active; (d) at least one anti-dullness active; and (e) water; and an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant.

[0007] In another aspect of this disclosure, a method for removing makeup, cleansing and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or eyes, body or hair is proposed, characterized in that the cleansing composition as described herein is applied to the skin, lips and / or eyes, or hair.

[0008] In another aspect of this disclosure, use of the composition as described herein is proposed for the removal of makeup, cleansing and / or care of a keratinous layer.

[0009] These features, aspects, and advantages, as well as others, of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and the attached claims. This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. Brief description of the drawings

[0010] The following drawings form part of this specification and are included to further illustrate aspects of this disclosure. The disclosure can be better understood by referring to the drawings in combination with the detailed description of the specific embodiments presented herein.

[0011] [Fig 1] The [Fig 1] illustrates the effect of biphasic compositions on the skin lightening parameters (A) skin lightening (dL); (B) change in saturation (dC); (C) change in hue (dH); (D) change in color (dE94), according to one embodiment of this disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] Those skilled in the art will be aware that this disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is understood that this disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds designated or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any combination of one or more of these steps or features.

[0013] Definitions

[0014] For convenience, before describing this disclosure in more detail, certain terms used in the descriptive memorandum and examples are Defined herein. These definitions should be read in light of the rest of the disclosure and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have meanings recognized and known to persons skilled in the art; however, for convenience and completeness, specific terms and their meanings are set out below.

[0015] The terms "understand" and "comprising" are used in an inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be interpreted as "consisting solely of".

[0016] The expression "at least one" is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0017] Throughout this descriptive document, unless the context otherwise requires, the term "include", and variations such as "includes" and "including", shall be understood as implying the inclusion of any element or step or group of elements or steps stated, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.

[0018] The term "including" is used to mean "including, not limited to". "Including" and "including, without being limited to" are used interchangeably.

[0019] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to identify ingredients of cosmetic or personal care products.

[0020] The term "oil" as used herein refers to compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and have a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 °C.

[0021] The term "biphasic" is used to describe a composition consisting of a distinct aqueous phase and an oily phase. According to this disclosure, the two phases are separated, with the aqueous phase forming the bottom or lower phase and the oily phase forming the top or upper phase. The two phases are not emulsified with each other at rest. However, upon mixing, such as agitation, the biphasic composition transforms into a cloudy monophasic composition, which is then applied to a keratinous layer such as skin. The terms "biphasic" and "two-phase" are used interchangeably in this disclosure. The biphasic composition is capable of transforming into a monophasic composition, and the monophasic composition is capable of transforming into a biphasic composition.

[0022] The expression "free from silicone and alcohol" or "free from silicones and alcohols" as used herein means that the cleansing composition as disclosed herein is essentially free from any ingredient containing alcohol and / or silicone. In particular, "essentially free from any ingredient containing alcohol and / or silicone" means that ingredients containing alcohol and / or silicone may be present in the composition in an amount of less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. In one embodiment, the composition is completely free of silicone. In another embodiment, the composition is free of alcohol. In yet another embodiment, the composition is completely free of both silicone and alcohol.

[0023] All percentages, parts, and ratios are based on the total weight of the formulations in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated. Ratios, concentrations, quantities, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It should be understood that this range format is used solely for convenience and conciseness and should be interpreted flexibly as including not only the numerical values ​​explicitly cited as the range limits, but also as including all individual numerical values ​​or subranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly cited.For example, a percentage range of about 0.01% to 5.5% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly quoted limits of about 0.01% to about 5%, but also sub-ranges, such as 2% to 3%, 3% to 4%, and so on, as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 2.84% and 3%, for example.

[0024] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure relates. Although all processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, preferred processes and materials are now described. All publications referred to herein are incorporated herein by reference.

[0025] This disclosure shall not be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for illustrative purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and processes clearly fall within the scope of this disclosure, as described herein.

[0026] The embodiments presented here propose a biphasic composition, preferably a biphasic composition free of alcohol and silicone, for removing makeup, cleansing, and / or conditioning a keratin layer. The disclosed embodiments include a biphasic composition, a method for removing makeup, cleansing, and / or conditioning the skin, lips, and / or eyes, body, or hair, and the use of the makeup-removing composition, cleansing and / or conditioning of the keratin layer. In various embodiments herein, the composition is a biphasic cleansing composition with enhanced cosmetic properties, addressing the drawbacks of existing cleansing products. In general, biphasic cleansers can be harsh and unsuitable for acne-prone skin due to the presence of higher amounts of alpha hydroxy acids. Furthermore, these biphasic cleansers may not be sufficiently stable to maintain their phase characteristics over a prolonged period and are therefore insufficient to provide additional skin-conditioning benefits.Therefore, the composition according to the embodiments presented here is a biphasic composition free of alcohol and silicone that is capable of transforming into a monophasic composition, stable across temperature ranges, ensuring effective makeup removal, gentle exfoliation, and is thus mild and suitable for sensitive skin types such as acne-prone skin. Furthermore, the composition offers enhanced skincare benefits such as an instant and progressive radiance boost; an even skin tone with a reduction in acne scars and pigmentation spots; and smooth, hydrated skin after regular use. The embodiments presented here further include a process for preparing the biphasic composition. Composition

[0027] The embodiments presented herein provide a composition for removing makeup, cleansing, and conditioning the keratin layer. The composition, according to the embodiments presented herein, is alcohol- and silicone-free, biphasic, and requires no rinsing. Furthermore, the composition, according to the embodiments presented herein, offers enhanced benefits to the keratin layer, such as instant and progressive brightening, an even skin tone, enhanced complexion, radiance, and a smooth, non-sticky feeling after use. In one embodiment, the composition comprises an aqueous phase including: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active ingredient; (d) at least one anti-dullness active ingredient; and (e) water; and an oily phase including: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant.

[0028] In other embodiments, the aqueous phase further includes at least one pH corrector, at least one sebum regulating active, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof.

[0029] In another embodiment, a composition is proposed comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one (c) poly(hydroxy)acid in an amount of 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) at least one brightening active ingredient in an amount of 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one anti-dullness complexion active ingredient in an amount of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (e) water in an amount of 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount of 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] In yet another embodiment, a composition is proposed comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5% by weight; (c) at least one lightening agent in an amount from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight;(d) at least one anti-dullness complexion active ingredient in an amount of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 0.8% by weight; and (e) water is in an amount of 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 80% to 85% by weight; an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 13% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4% to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 0.8% by weight. ;

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7, preferably in a ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7, more preferably in a ratio of 92:8. Aqueous phase

[0032] The composition according to embodiments herein comprises an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the weight (c) total composition, preferably 1 to 2% by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 2.5% by weight; (c) at least one brightening active ingredient in an amount of 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 2.5% by weight; (d) at least one anti-dullness complexion active ingredient in an amount of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 0.8% by weight; and (e) water is in an amount of 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 75 to 85% by weight, more preferably 80 to 85% by weight. Alpha hydroxy acid

[0033] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the embodiments presented herein includes at least one alpha hydroxy acid, which acts as a gentle exfoliating agent and exfoliates the skin, helping to remove dead skin cells and also promoting the new generation of skin cells. The alpha hydroxy acid may be a single type, but two or more different types of alpha hydroxy acids may also be used in combination. The alpha hydroxy acid forms part of the aqueous phase of this disclosure. Therefore, the aqueous phase of this disclosure comprises at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

[0034] The expression "alpha hydroxy acid", "a-hydroxy acid", or "AHA", is used here to designate a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0035] Alpha hydroxy acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0036] (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH

[0037] where ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated form, isomeric or non-isomeric, linear or branched or cyclic, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and furthermore Ra and Rb may bear OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

[0038] The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. The alpha hydroxy acid may be present as a free acid or lactone, or as a partial salt with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. Alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as the D, L, DL, and meso forms.

[0039] When Ra and Rb are alkyl, they can independently be found in any of the Cj-C5, C6-Ci0, Cn-Ci5, Cj6-C2o, C2i-C25 and C26-C29 groups. The compounds in the chemical formula above therefore include all combinations possible Ra and Rb. Included in the above is a subgenus of compounds having Ra and Rb independently chosen from C1-C12.

[0040] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Raet Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl and ethoxyl.

[0041] The alpha hydroxy acids of the first group can be subdivided into:

[0042] (1) alkyl alpha hydroxy acids,

[0043] (2) aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids,

[0044] (3) poly(hydroxy)alpha hydroxy acids,

[0045] (4) alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids, and

[0046] (5) various alpha hydroxy acids.

[0047] The following are the representative alpha hydroxy acids in each subgroup.

[0048] (1) Alkyl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (acid glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyl lactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid) and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid)

[0049] (2) Aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid) and 4-hydroxymandelic acid.

[0050] (3) Polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (acid glyceric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers; erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers; ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers; allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers; glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.)

[0051] (4) Alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3- dioic acid (tartronic acid); 2-hydroxybutane-l,4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2-Hydroxy-2-methylbutane-l,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid); 2,3-Dihydroxybutane-l,4-dioic acid (tartaric acid); 2,3,4-Trihydroxypentane-l,5-dioic acid (isomers; ribaric acid, arabic acid, xylaric acid, lyxaric acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-l,6-dioic acid (isomers; glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, gularic acid, idaric acid, talaric acid).

[0052] (5) Various alpha-hydroxy acids: glyceruronic acid, erythronic acid, threonic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanurononic acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).

[0053] According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is an alkyl alpha hydroxy acid or an aralkyl hydroxy acid and is preferably chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0054] The amount of alpha hydroxy acid in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The alpha hydroxy acid, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight.

[0055] According to a more preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid, wherein the lactic acid may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight; and the glycolic acid is in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight. Poly(hydroxy) acid

[0056] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one poly(hydroxy) acid, which functions as a gentle exfoliating active ingredient similar to AHA but with a gentler action compared to AHA. The poly(hydroxy) acids provide gentle exfoliation and even out the texture of the skin. The poly(hydroxy) acid may be a single type of poly(hydroxy) acid, but two or more different types of poly(hydroxy) acids may also be used in combination. The poly(hydroxy) acid is part of the aqueous phase of this disclosure. The aqueous phase of this disclosure comprises at least one poly(hydroxy) acid. Therefore, the poly(hydroxy) acid forms a resting aqueous layer in the composition.

[0057] The term "poly(hydroxy)acid" or "PHA" is used here to designate a carboxylic acid with two or more hydroxyl groups attached to carbon atoms or to an alicyclic chain. It is essential that at least one hydroxyl group be attached to the alpha carbon atom. Examples of poly(hydroxy)acids include gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid, or mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the attachment of a sugar molecule to the PHA structure results in a polysaccharide known as bionic acid (PHBA); these molecules are called bionic poly(hydroxy)acids or PHBAs. Lactobionic acid is an example of PHBA.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the poly(hydroxy)acid is chosen from gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0059] According to a more preferred embodiment, the poly(hydroxy)acid is gluconolactone.

[0060] The amount of alpha hydroxy acid in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The poly(hydroxy) acid, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% to 2.5% by weight. Brightening active ingredient

[0061] The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments described herein, includes one or more brightening active ingredients, which are used to regulate excess sebum, reduce enlarged pores, promote nourished skin, and thus provide enhanced brightening effects for the skin. Examples of brightening active ingredients include, but are not limited to, niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, retinoids, hydroquinone, linoleic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, the lightening active ingredient is niacinamide.

[0063] The amount of brightening agent in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The brightening agent, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight. Active ingredient to combat dullness in the complexion

[0064] The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more anti-dullness active ingredients, which are used to improve the appearance of dull, dry, or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. Examples of anti-dullness active ingredients include, but are not limited to, caffeine, polyglutamic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the anti-dullness complexion active ingredient is caffeine.

[0066] The amount of anti-dullness complexion active ingredient in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The anti-dullness complexion active ingredient, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 0.8% by weight. Water

[0067] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the embodiments presented herein comprises water, which is a solvent for dissolving the ingredients of the aqueous phase. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water, or linden water, and / or natural spring water or mineral water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, that is, water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., restoring the characteristics of spring water.

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment, the water is sterile demineralized water.

[0069] The amount of water in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The water, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 80% to 85% by weight. Oily phase

[0070] The composition according to embodiments herein comprises an oily phase comprising: (a) at least one emollient in an amount from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight; and (b) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight. Emollient

[0071] The composition, according to embodiments shown herein, includes one or more emollients. The emollients function as occlusive agents to retain moisture in The skin, and consequently leave the skin soft, smooth, and moisturized. Emollients, according to the embodiments described here, can be a single type of oil, but two or more different types of oils can also be used in combination.

[0072] Examples of emollients include, but are not limited to, hydrocarbon oil, vegetable oil, mineral oil, oils such as fatty acid esters, or mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon oil

[0073] Hydrocarbon oil can form the oily phase of the composition according to the present disclosure.

[0074] The term "hydrocarbon" here refers to a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not include any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.

[0075] The hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.

[0076] Hydrocarbon oil can be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be volatile. In other words, it is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0077] For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with a keratin layer in less than one hour, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

[0078] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point above 65°C, and even better above 80°C.

[0079] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C8-Ci6 branched volatile hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably C8-Ci6 branched volatile alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It may be even more preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be selected from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane) and mixtures thereof.

[0080] In another case, the hydrocarbon oil may also be a linear or branched hydrocarbon containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and squalene.

[0081] Furthermore, the hydrocarbon oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Examples include, but are not limited to, n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] In particular, the hydrocarbon oil may be selected from isohexadecane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, liquid paraffin, or mixtures thereof. Fatty acid esters

[0083] Oils, such as fatty acid esters, can form the oily phase of the composition according to the present disclosure.

[0084] Examples of oils that are fatty acid esters include, but are not limited to, synthetic fatty acid esters such as oils having the formula Ri COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a higher linear or branched fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms with Ri + R2 > 10, such as, for example, purcelline oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isonyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-Cl5 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, cetaryl isoneonate, stearate of octyl-2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate;Hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and tetraethyl pentaerythrityl hexanoate.

[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, the emollient is selected from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, isododecane, liquid paraffin, esters such as isononyl isonanoate, erythrityl tetraethylanoate, cetyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, cetaryl isononate, undecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof.

[0086] According to a more preferred embodiment, the emollient is a combination of isododecane, isohexadecane and isopropyl myristate.

[0087] The amount of emollient in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The emollient, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13%, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight. Antioxidant

[0088] The oily phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more antioxidants, which are used to nourish the skin and also to protect the skin from oxidative damage. Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, vitamin E, vitamin A, polyphenols, or mixtures thereof. Antioxidants also include vitamin E derivatives, vitamin A derivatives, polyphenol derivatives, or mixtures thereof.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the antioxidant is vitamin E.

[0090] The amount of antioxidant in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The antioxidant, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4% to 0.9% by weight, or even better from 0.5% to 0.8% by weight. Other additives

[0091] The composition, in particular the aqueous phase according to embodiments described herein, may also include one or more additives, which may be selected from, among other things, at least one pH adjuster, at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof. It is understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the disclosure are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the intended addition. All such embodiments, including the optional additives, are understood to be included within the scope of this disclosure. pH adjuster

[0092] The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more pH adjusters. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted to the desired value by using at least one pH adjuster, such as an acidifying or alkalizing agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

[0093] The pH adjusters in the aqueous phase of the composition maintain the pH of the biphasic composition in a range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a range of 4.4 to 4.6.

[0094] The pH adjuster may include acidifying agents, alkalizing agents, or combinations thereof. Examples of acidifying agents include, but are not limited to, mineral or organic acids, for example, hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, or sulfonic acid.

[0095] Examples of basifying agents include, but are not limited to, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, and compounds of the formula below: RI R3 N—R-hf R2 R4

[0096] in which

[0097] R represents an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rb R2, Ri and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, preferably sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamines.

[0098] According to preferred embodiments herein, the pH corrector is potassium hydroxide.

[0099] The amount of pH adjuster in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The pH adjuster, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight. Sebum-regulating active ingredient

[0100] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more sebum-regulating active ingredients, which are used to absorb excess sebum, unclog pores, and further help regulate acne. Examples of sebum-regulating active ingredients include, but are not limited to, zinc gluconate, charcoal, salicylic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, the sebum-regulating active ingredient is zinc gluconate.

[0102] The amount of sebum-regulating active ingredient in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The amount of sebum-regulating active ingredient, according to the embodiments of where produced here, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight. Buffer

[0103] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more buffers, which are used to neutralize any residual acidity of the ingredients in the composition. Examples of buffers include, but are not limited to, citric acid, sodium citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, C12-13 trialkyl citrate, C14-15 trialkyl citrate, tricaprylyl citrate, triethylhexyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, isodecyl citrate, stearyl citrate, dilauryl citrate, ethyl citrate, or mixtures thereof.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, the buffer is a combination of citric acid, sodium citrate and triethyl citrate, more preferably a combination of sodium citrate and triethyl citrate.

[0105] The amount of buffer in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The buffer, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 2.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% to 2.1% by weight. Surfactant

[0106] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more surfactants, which are used to impart cleaning properties to the composition. Examples of surfactants include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, caprylic / capric polyethylene glycol (PEG)-6 glycerides, poloxamer 184, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof.

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate.

[0108] The amount of surfactant in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The surfactant, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.008% to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 0.4% by weight. Active compound

[0109] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more active compounds, which are used to confer an additional cosmetic / dermatological effect, such as the conditioning of a keratin layer. Examples of compounds active ingredients include, but are not limited to, sodium chloride, hydroxyacetophenone or mixtures thereof.

[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the active compound is sodium chloride and hydroxyacetophenone.

[0111] The amount of active compound in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The active compound, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight. Conservative

[0112] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more preservatives, which are used to protect the composition from chemical and biological degradation, microbial contamination, and any associated degradation of the composition. Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, mytrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, parabens, pentylene glycol, methylisothiazolinone, benzisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, or mixtures thereof.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the preservative is mytrimonium bromide.

[0114] The amount of preservative in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The preservative, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 0.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight.

[0115] Preparation of compositions according to disclosure

[0116] The compositions according to the disclosure can be manufactured using known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. Generally, the process comprises mixing a first active compound, a brightening active, an anti-dullness active, and a poly(hydroxy) acid in water at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. A first buffer component, a second active compound, and a surfactant are added to water heated to a temperature of approximately 60 to 65 °C and thoroughly mixed to obtain the second mixture. A second buffer component and a sebum-regulating active are mixed at approximately 60 °C with the second mixture, then further mixed with the first mixture in the main container, and finally cooled to room temperature with the resulting third mixture. A preservative, alpha hydroxy acids, and a pH adjuster were added to the third mixture. The emollient and antioxidant are mixed at room temperature to obtain the clear aqueous phase with the desired pH.

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are mixed in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7, preferably in a ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7, in particular in a ratio of 92:8.

[0118] According to a more preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are mixed in a weight ratio of 92:8 to obtain the biphasic composition. Preferably, the mixing step of the oily and aqueous phases is carried out gently so that the oily and aqueous phases are poured slowly into a container such as a container. Shape

[0119] Preferably, the composition according to this disclosure is in the form of a two-phase liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). If the density of the oil phase is less than that of the aqueous phase, the oil phase is present on top of the aqueous phase in the composition according to this disclosure. Typically, the oil phase is present on top of the aqueous phase at rest, since the density of oil tends to be less than that of water.

[0120] The composition, according to a preferred embodiment, is capable of transforming into a single-phase composition upon stirring. The single-phase composition does not have two distinct aqueous and oily phases and has a single phase, which is generally an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but it may have a cloudy appearance.

[0121] The single-phase composition according to another preferred embodiment is capable of transforming into a two-phase composition at rest.

[0122] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be acidic. For example, the pH of the composition according to the present disclosure is in a range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a range of 4.4 to 4.6.

[0123] The composition according to the present invention can be in any form such as a liquid, a solution or a liquid gel.

[0124] The composition according to this disclosure may be a two-phase cleansing composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to this disclosure may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. The term "keratinous layer" here refers to the outermost part of the human epidermis containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples of this include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cleansing composition according to this disclosure be used for a cosmetic process of cleansing and / or caring for the keratinous layer, in particular the skin, lips and / or eyes, body or hair.

[0125] The composition according to this disclosure may preferably be a no-rinse composition. The no-rinse cleansing composition is capable of removing dirt, sebum and / or makeup from a keratinous layer such as the skin, facial lips and eyes. Use and process

[0126] A composition, according to the embodiments herein, may more particularly be a cleansing and care composition for a keratinous layer, such as human skin, face, lips, or eyes. Preferably, the composition, according to the embodiments herein, is a composition for removing all types of makeup and for cleansing and brightening the skin. Accordingly, the composition, in various embodiments herein, may be a facial cleanser, a cleansing serum, or a cleansing solution. The composition may furthermore be in any suitable form, for example, a gel, a liquid gel, or a liquid form. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of a liquid cleanser.

[0127] The composition, according to the embodiments described herein, will be mixed, for example, by hand stirring (manual stirring) during use. After mixing, the biphasic composition, according to the embodiments described herein, is transformed into a monophasic composition. The monophasic composition is immediately applied to the keratin layer to deliver the desired cosmetic effects.

[0128] The composition according to this disclosure can preferably be used by impregnating it onto a porous substrate such as a non-woven fabric preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton. Then, by sliding the cotton over the desired area of ​​the keratin layer to remove makeup, dirt, etc.

[0129] According to embodiments preferred herein, the process of removing makeup, cleansing and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or eyes, body or hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition is applied to the skin, lips and / or eyes, or hair.

[0130] Although this disclosure has been described in great detail with reference to certain embodiments and their implementations, other embodiments are possible to cover modifications and variations to this disclosure. Examples

[0131] The disclosure will now be illustrated by practical examples, which are intended to demonstrate how the disclosure works and are not intended to impose restrictive limitations on the scope of this disclosure. Unless otherwise defined On the contrary, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person of ordinary competence in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice of the disclosed processes and compositions, examples of such processes, devices, and materials are described herein. It should be understood that this disclosure is not limited to the particular processes and experimental conditions described, as these processes and conditions may be applicable.

[0132] The quantities of ingredients are indicated in the following examples as percentages by weight of active ingredient. Measurement and evaluation methods

[0133] The C(l) to C(3) compositions as prepared in the following Example 1 were evaluated in terms of stability characteristics, pH, and sensory aspects. Stability evaluation

[0134] The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing them at various temperatures within a range of 4°C to 60°C, such as 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C, for a period of two months. The observation of cloudiness, discoloration, crystallization, and any other changes in the appearance of the compositions was checked. pH evaluation

[0135] The pH of the compositions was determined using standard laboratory protocols. Sensory evaluation Quantitative consumer trial

[0136] Test protocol: Monadic with 4 weeks of home use followed by 1 week of deprivation. Human volunteers (n=600) aged 18 to 35 years were involved in the trial to evaluate sensory aspects, such as progressive and immediate brightening, effective makeup removal, non-sticky sensation, suitability for acne-prone skin, skin-friendliness, skin / eye irritation profile and skin-friendliness of the compositions according to the invention and commercial products. Qualitative consumer trial-1

[0137] Test protocol: 40 human volunteers, divided into panels of 20 each, aged 18 to 35 years, where 50% had normal skin and 50% had oily skin and who were regular users of two-phase makeup removers, were involved in the test to assess sensory aspects, such as immediate brightening, effective makeup removal, non-greasy feel and skin / eye irritant profile, compositions according to the invention and commercial products. Qualitative consumer trial-2

[0138] Test protocol: 40 human volunteers, aged 18 to 35 years, of whom 50% had normal skin and 50% had oily skin, and who were regular users of two-phase makeup removers, were involved in the test to assess the sensory aspects, such as gradual brightening, non-sticky feel, and skin / eye irritation profile, of the compositions according to the invention and commercial products. A recommended instruction given to the volunteers was not to rinse their face after using the composition. Example 1

[0139] Determination of the effect of a modified weight range of AHA in a biphasic composition on skin safety

[0140] The biphasic composition, C(l) in accordance with this disclosure was prepared by the process described herein and the comparative compositions, C(2), C(3) and C(3) provided in Table 1, were also prepared.

[0141] The process includes mixing a first active compound, a brightening agent, a complexion-correcting agent, and a poly(hydroxy) acid in water at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. A first buffer component, a second active compound, and a surfactant are added to water heated to a temperature of approximately 60 to 65 °C and thoroughly mixed to obtain the second mixture. A second buffer component and a sebum-regulating agent are mixed at approximately 60 °C with the second mixture, then mixed with the first mixture in the main container, and finally cooled to room temperature to obtain the third mixture. A preservative, alpha hydroxy acids, and a pH adjuster are added to the third mixture and mixed at room temperature to obtain the clear aqueous phase with the desired pH. Emollients and an antioxidant are mixed at room temperature to obtain the oil phase.

[0142] The effect of the biphasic compositions prepared in accordance with this disclosure and of the comparative compositions on skin safety was determined using a pilot-scale study. In this study, approximately 12 healthy volunteers were instructed to apply the compositions to their faces and to report any signs of eye irritation, burning sensation, or stinging on the facial skin.

[0143] The results obtained with compositions C(l) to C(3) in terms of skin safety are described in detail below.

[0144] Composition C(1) in accordance with this disclosure was reported as safe and did not cause any irritation or burning sensation in volunteers after use. Comparative compositions C(2) and C(3) with a pH of 4, which was beyond the desired range, caused eye irritation and a burning sensation on the skin in 33% of volunteers. Therefore, it is necessary that all parameters, such as the specific components, their weight ranges, and their pH, be within the desired ranges as disclosed herein, in order to obtain the desired biphasic cleansing composition.

[0145] [Tables 1] Phase Function of ingredients Ingredients (INCI name) Content (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) C(1) C(2) C(3) Aqueous Alkali / pH adjuster Potassium hydroxide 1.10 0.98 0.97 Aqueous Brightening active Niacinamide 2.01 2.01 2.01 Aqueous AHA Lactic acid 0.37 0.92 1.1 Aqueous AHA Glycolic acid 0.92 0.37 0.46 Aqueous Anti-dullness active Caffeine 0.50 0.5 0.5 Aqueous Sebum regulating active Zinc gluconate 0.23 0.23 0.23 Aqueous PHA Gluconolactone 1.49 1.49 1.49 Aqueous Solvent Aqueous 82.55 83.65 82.41 Aqueous Buffer Sodium citrate 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqueous Buffer Triethyl citrate 1.84 1.84 1.84 Aqueous Buffer Citric acid 0.04 0.04 0.04 Aqueous Active compound Sodium chloride 0.46 0.46 0.46 Aqueous Surfactant Polyglyceryl-6 diethylparaben 0.05 0.05 0.05 Aqueous Active compound Hydroxyacetate 0.28 0.28 0.28 Aqueous Preservative Myrtrimonium bromide 0.06 0.06 0.06 Oily Antioxidant (vitamin E) Tocopheryl acetate 0.7 0.7 0.7 Oily Emollient Isopropyl myristate 0.56 0.56 0.56 Oily Emollient Isohexadecane 4.34 4.34 4.34 Oily Emollient Isododecane 2.4 2.4 2.4 Product rating pH 4.5 4 4 , Skin safety assessment: No irritation. 33% (4 / 12) reported irritation and / or a burning sensation.

[0146] Consequently, it is observed that the use of specific ingredients as disclosed in various embodiments herein has facilitated obtaining the cleansing composition with the desired physical and skin-safe properties. Example 2 Sensory evaluation

[0147] The selected working composition(s) were evaluated with regard to various sensory aspects, such as progressive and immediate brightening, effective makeup removal, non-sticky feel, suitability for acne-prone skin, skin-friendliness and skin / eye irritation profile, compared to selected commercial products.

[0148] Each of the sensory aspects was evaluated using a combination of qualitative consumer testing, quantitative consumer testing, instrumental testing and in vitro testing, as appropriate.

[0149] I. Gradual lightening

[0150] The progressive lightening effect provided by the compositions was evaluated using a combination of a qualitative consumer test and a quantitative consumer test.

[0151] Qualitative consumer test-2

[0152] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure has been qualitatively evaluated for its progressive lightening effect on human skin. Results

[0153] Within 30 days of using composition C(l), the majority of volunteers appreciated a progressive visible enhancement of skin radiance and luminosity for approximately 1 to 3 levels more than untreated skin.

[0154] Quantitative consumer trial

[0155] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial facial cleansers CP(1) and CP(2) have been quantitatively evaluated for their progressive skin-lightening effect.

[0156] [Tables2] C(l) CP(1) CP(2) Aqueous phase Oily phase 92:8 85:15 88:12 Results

[0157] 91% of volunteers reported a significant increase in the association of the progressive lightening for C(l) compared to the commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

[0158] Thus, the composition C(l) according to the present disclosure comprising an optimal combination of active ingredients such as the skin-brightening active ingredient niacinamide, glycolic acid and lactic acid- AHA, the anti-dullness active ingredient caffeine in the biphasic composition with an aqueous phase:oil phase ratio of 92:8 conferred progressive skin-brightening effects.

[0159] II. Effective makeup removal

[0160] The makeup removal efficacy of the compositions in accordance with this disclosure compared to commercial products was assessed by a combination of an instrumental test, a qualitative consumer test and a quantitative consumer test.

[0161] The makeup removal efficacy of the compositions in accordance with this disclosure (C(1)) compared to the commercial product (CP(3)) was assessed by a test involving the removal of stubborn mascara by 8 volunteers; aged 18 to 60 years, with medium to long eyelashes and without drooping eyelids.

[0162] Protocol: Mascara removal

[0163] Step 1 Per eye: Use 3 cotton rounds (smooth side down), each soaked with 2 mL of the test formula. Then, for both eyes at the same time:

[0164] Step 2 Apply the first cotton pad to the closed eyes and leave for 5 seconds (this has been done for the first cotton pad).

[0165] Step 3 With the volunteer's eyes closed, slide the cotton 3 times in an outward sweeping motion that follows the eyelashes from the inside out.

[0166] Step 4 With the volunteer's eyes open, glide the same cotton round once in an inward sweeping motion across the skin along the base of the lower eyelashes, following the lash line from the outer corner to the inner corner. Then, with the volunteer's eyes closed, glide the cotton round once outward. The open / closed eye movements were repeated two more times (three times in total) with the same cotton round.

[0167] Step 5 Steps 3 and 4 were repeated for the second and third cotton circles.

[0168] Step 6 A waiting time of 5 minutes was observed to allow the residues to dry.

[0169] In step 7, 2 mL of positive control were applied to the round cotton (smooth side) and The elimination process of steps 2 to 4 was repeated, again holding the first round cotton ball for 5 seconds.

[0170] Step 8 Step 7 was repeated for a total of 6 cottons (the last cotton used must be "clean").

[0171] Step 9 Rounds counted for efficiency according to the method.

[0172] [Tables3] Stubborn Makeup Removal Efficiency High Medium to High Medium Low to Medium Low Number of Cotton Pads 0 to 1.0 1.5 to 2.5 3.0 to 3.5 4.0 to 4.5 5.0 to 6.0 Results

[0173] Composition C(l) exhibited a medium level of makeup removal efficacy (i.e., 1.5 to 2.5 cotton rounds), whereas the commercial product CP(3) exhibited low makeup removal efficacy (5 to 6 cotton rounds). CP(3) had a water-to-oil phase weight ratio of 85:15, which confirmed that the composition of the present disclosure, having a water-to-oil phase weight ratio of approximately 92:8, was much preferable for effective mascara removal.

[0174] Quantitative consumer trial

[0175] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial facial cleansers CP(1) and CP(2) have been quantitatively evaluated for their makeup removal efficacy. Results

[0176] 97% of volunteers reported effective makeup removal with composition C(l) and also highlighted in particular that C(l) resulted in fresh and smooth skin after use.

[0177] Qualitative consumer trial-1

[0178] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial facial cleansers CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their makeup removal efficacy.

[0179] All 20 panel volunteers observed that C(l) provided effective makeup removal without a sticky feeling compared to the commercial product CP(2).

[0180] Thus, the composition C(l) according to the present disclosure comprising an optimized weight combination of alpha hydroxy acids and poly(hydroxy) acid, as well as a cocktail of other aqueous phase components and oil phase emollients, offered a deep yet gentle cleansing experience while conferring sebum regulating / shine regulating benefits.

[0181] III. Non-greasy feeling

[0182] The non-greasy feeling conferred by the compositions after makeup removal was assessed using a combination of qualitative consumer trials and a quantitative consumer trial.

[0183] Qualitative consumer trial-1

[0184] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure has been qualitatively evaluated for its ability to provide a non-greasy feeling after makeup removal. Results

[0185] All volunteers observed that C(l) provided effective makeup removal without leaving a greasy and sticky feeling.

[0186] Qualitative consumer trial-2

[0187] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and the commercial facial cleanser CP(2) were qualitatively evaluated for their ability to impart a non-greasy feeling after makeup removal. Results

[0188] All volunteers reported a non-greasy feeling and noted that rinsing was not necessary after using composition C(1), according to this disclosure. On the other hand, all users of the commercial product CP(2) reported having to wash their face to remove the sticky, greasy feeling.

[0189] Quantitative consumer trial

[0190] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial facial cleansers CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to impart a non-sticky feeling after effective makeup removal. Results

[0191] 87% of volunteers reported a significantly less oily skin feeling better for C(l) compared to the commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

[0192] Thus, the composition C(l) according to the present disclosure, comprising an optimal combination of light oils such as hydrocarbons, conferred a light, non-sticky skin sensation within the biphasic composition with an aqueous / oily phase ratio of 92:8 giving a non-greasy feel compared to commercial products with a higher oil ratio.

[0193] IV. Suitable for acne-prone skin

[0194] Quantitative consumer trial

[0195] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial facial cleansers CP(1) and CP(2) have been quantitatively evaluated for their suitability for use on acne-prone skin for makeup removal. Results

[0196] 75% of volunteers reported significantly better appropriateness of the composition C(l) for acne-prone skin compared to commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

[0197] Thus, composition C(l) according to this disclosure, comprising gentle exfoliating skin actives such as AHAs and PHAs such as glycolic acid, lactic acid and gluconolactone as well as a sebum-regulating active, such as gluconate, conferred gentle exfoliation, sebum regulation and, consequently, proved more suitable for acne-prone skin compared to commercial products.

[0198] V. Skin Respect

[0199] Respect for the skin, or the softness conferred by the compositions, was assessed using a combination of an instrumental test and a quantitative test with consumers.

[0200] Instrumental test for hydration efficiency

[0201] An instrumental test was carried out to assess the hydration efficiency of composition C(l).

[0202] Instrumental evaluation was performed on 24 healthy subjects on the dry forearm using the Corneometer CM825, the CK pH meter, and the Aquaflux AF200 to capture the hydration potential, pH, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the compositions at baseline and 1 hour, 4 hours, and 6 hours after product application, under standard controlled conditions (temperature: 21 ± 1 °C; RH: 45 ± 5%). The bare arm without product application was considered the negative control with a positive reference.

[0203] Protocol: In brief, 2 mg / cm² of each of the compositions to be evaluated were applied in a controlled manner to 6 sites on the forearm. The application instructions included gentle massage with a finger cot until complete absorption, in accordance with randomization.

[0204] As illustrated in Tables 4, 5 and 6, C(l) delivered increased hydration, with a desired pH and reduced transepidermal water loss at all time points, thus giving positive performance on skin respect.

[0205] [Table 4] Evaluation of hydration efficiency Model Product tO tl t4 t6 Atl At4 At6 Avg. C(l) 24.54 32.91 32.15 33.36 8.37 7.6 8.81 SD 3.2 6.74 5.54 5.61 6.44 5.04 4.4 Avg. Untreated 24.59 25.7 25.67 26.09 1.11 1.08 1.5 SD 3.7 4.36 5.03 4.14 3.4 4.02 4.14 [Table 5] pH Evaluation Model Product to tl t4 t6 Atl At4 At6 Avg. C(l) 5.48 5.34 5.38 5.42 -0.14 -0.1 -0.06 SD 0.26 0.32 0.27 0.29 0.37 0.43 0.33 Avg. Untreated 5.43 5.45 5.45 5.3 0.01 0.01 -0.13 SD 0.27 0.42 0.22 0.32 0.51 0.39 0.4 [Table 6] Transepidermal water loss Model Product to tl t4 t6 Atl At4 At6 Avg. C(l) 12.15 6.41 8.75 9.24 -5.74 -3.4 -2.91 SD 5.42 5.32 4.47 5.51 3.26 2.73 2.77 Avg. Untreated 12.25 8.5 9.9 10.07 -3.76 -2.35 -2.18 SD é 5.31 6.37 4.06 5.22 4.05 2.53 2.05

[0208] Quantitative consumer trial

[0209] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial facial cleansers CP(1) and CP(2) have been quantitatively evaluated for their ability to provide skin-friendly performance. Results

[0210] 97% of volunteers reported a significantly better gentle cleansing effect of the composition C(l) compared to the two commercial products CP(1) and CP(2) and, consequently, the composition of the present disclosure was gentle and provided better skin-friendliness in comparison.

[0211] Thus, composition C(l) according to this disclosure, comprising an optimal level of skin-care ingredients such as water, skin emollients, antioxidant, Gentle exfoliating actives such as AHA and PHA have contributed to the composition's gentle and skin-friendly characteristics.

[0212] VI. Non-irritating to skin and eyes

[0213] The non-irritating characteristic for the skin and eyes of the compositions was assessed using a combination of an instrumental test and qualitative tests with consumers.

[0214] HCE in vitro test

[0215] The SkinEthic™ HCE (human corneal epithelium) corneal reconstruction model has been adopted in OECD WG 492 for the prediction of ocular irritation from chemicals / raw materials.

[0216] Protocol 30 ql-30 min; 30 ql of the composition were applied topically to the SkinEthic™ HCE model. Tissues were incubated for 30 min at 37 °C, 5% CO2, and 95% humidity, after 30 min of soaking. Viability was determined by the MTT conversion test to predict irritation. Result

[0217] The Cl composition was found to be acceptable without significant irritation of the skin or eyes, as reported by the HCE test.

[0218] PIRI PIRI test

[0219] The sensation of skin discomfort, such as irritation or itching of the skin and eyes, and its level were assessed by a sequential, blinded, randomized, monodic evaluation of composition C(1) and the commercial product CP(9). Twenty-eight volunteers, responsive to skin discomfort caused by cosmetic products and trained in the standard application method, participated in the study. The volunteers were instructed to assess any skin discomfort caused on the upper part of their cheek, from immediately to 5 minutes after application. For the mean score of each type of discomfort, a significant difference was determined with p<0.05. Results

[0220] Regarding itching as a skin discomfort, an average score of 0.25 was reported for C(l) compared to CP(9) with an average score of 0.11, meaning that composition C(l) resulted in much less itching than CP(9).

[0221] Qualitative consumer trial-1

[0222] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and the commercial product CP(2) have been qualitatively evaluated for their non-irritating characteristic towards skin and eyes.

[0223] The majority of volunteers (16 to 19 volunteers) observed that C(l) did not sting or irritate the eyes or leave a bitter taste on the lips compared to the commercial product CP(2).

[0224] Qualitative consumer trial-2

[0225] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial products CP(2) and CP(3) have been qualitatively evaluated for their non-irritating characteristic for skin and eyes. Results

[0226] All volunteers reported that composition C(l) did not irritate the eyes or leave an unpleasant "chemical" taste on the lips compared to commercial products CP(2) and CP(3).

[0227] Thus, the composition C(l) according to this disclosure with the appropriate ingredients with an optimal dosage of skin-scrubbing actives such as AHA and PHA, and an optimized pH of 4.5 was suitable for the skin without causing skin or eye irritation.

[0228] VI. Immediate clarification

[0229] The immediate brightening effect conferred by the compositions was assessed using a combination of an instrumental test, a qualitative consumer test and a quantitative consumer test.

[0230] Instrumental test

[0231] Fourteen healthy volunteers with light, medium, and dark complexions and oily skin were recruited for the instrumental trial, and the immediate skin-brightening effects were assessed. The instrumental evaluation was performed before and after application of the product to capture changes in skin color and radiance using the Minolta CD 700 spectrophotometer and the Newtone Lightcam.

[0232] Compositions tested: Compositions C(l) and commercial products CP(2), CP(4), CP(5), CP(6), CP(7) and CP(8).

[0233] Chromasphere® measurement protocol:

[0234] 1) The volunteers were instructed to wash their faces with water and to allow to acclimatize under standard conditions (temperature: 21+1 °C; RH: 45+5%) for 30 minutes.

[0235] 2) The T-0 baseline measurement was obtained on Chromasphere, with the cheek and the front as an area of ​​appreciation.

[0236] 3) The product was applied in 6 passes using 2.5 mL of the composition sampled on cotton, in accordance with randomization using the standard protocol.

[0237] 4) The T-imm measurement was obtained on Chromasphere.

[0238] 5) Preferred parameters: For skin color changes: L, C, tint(H) and dE94; For brilliant shine: dC. Results

[0239] The difference in skin lightening compared to the baseline measurement T0 and the respective time point (T-imm) after product application is represented as a dL value. The dL values ​​obtained for the test compositions are summarized in Figure IA. Similarly, the change in saturation values, represented by dC, is summarized in Figure IB. The dC values ​​confirmed that composition C(l) according to this disclosure conferred significantly increased saturation and made the skin color more vivid and intense. The change in skin tone is represented by dH and is summarized in Figure IC. The overall color change compared to the baseline is represented by dE94 and is summarized in Figure 1D. Thus, composition C(l) of this disclosure showed significant skin lightening and saturation effects.

[0240] Qualitative consumer trial-1

[0241] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and commercial products CP(1) and CP(2) have been qualitatively evaluated for their immediate skin-lightening effects. Results

[0242] All volunteers observed that C(l) was able to offer an instant glow with soft skin after use compared to commercial products, which left a sticky effect despite offering brightening effects.

[0243] Quantitative consumer trial

[0244] Composition C(l) according to this disclosure and the commercial facial cleansers CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to provide skin-friendly results.

[0245] 87% of volunteers reported significantly improved cleaning effectiveness better with skin brightening effects such as conferred by composition C(l) compared to commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

[0246] Thus, the composition C(l) according to the present disclosure, comprising an active cocktail such as AHA, PHA, a brightening active such as niacinamide at an active level and a low pH, has shown superior efficacy in skin rejuvenation and brightening.

[0247] Consequently, it has been observed that the use of specific ingredients as disclosed in various embodiments herein facilitated obtaining the cosmetic composition with the desired sensory properties. Benefits of this disclosure

[0248] This disclosure proposes a makeup removal, cleansing, and / or keratin layer care composition comprising an aqueous phase including: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active ingredient; (d) at least one anti-dullness active ingredient; and (e) water; and an oily phase including: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant. The composition is a silicone- and alcohol-free biphasic cleansing composition with the skin care benefits listed below.

[0249] (a) The biphasic composition during agitation is transformed into a composition single-phase and is stable at all temperatures without any observed hazy appearance or crystallization.

[0250] (b) The composition is easy to use and requires no rinsing.

[0251] (c) The specific combination of emollients ensures a non-greasy feeling on the skin after effective removal of makeup and dirt.

[0252] (d) The optimized combination of alpha hydroxy acids and poly(hydroxy) acids Contributing to a pH of approximately 4.5, it ensures a gentle exfoliating action on the skin, without causing eye or skin irritation. Therefore, the formula is suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types.

[0253] (e) The optimized combination of a skin-brightening active ingredient and an anti- dull complexion offers instant and progressive brightening and leaves skin soft, smooth and non-sticky.

[0254] (f) The composition offers multiple benefits for the skin, such as a sensation non-greasy, clear and radiant skin, reduction of acne breakouts, reduction of pigmentation spots density, etc. and ensures an overall complexion enhancement.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active selected from niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, retinoids, hydroquinone, linoleic acid, or mixtures thereof; (d) at least one anti-dullness active selected from caffeine, polyglutamic acid, or mixtures thereof; and (e) water; (ii) an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid (a) is a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid, the lactic acid being in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; and glycolic acid being in an amount ranging from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight, and wherein the aqueous phase and the oily phase are in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7;preferably within a weight ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7.;

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises at least one pH adjuster, at least one sebum regulating active, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the poly(hydroxy)acid is in an amount from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5% by weight; and the poly(hydroxy)acid is selected from gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid or mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lightening agent is present in an amount from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight; the anti-dullness complexion active ingredient is in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8% by weight; and water is in an amount ranging from 70 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 80 to 85% by weight.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one emollient is in an amount from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight; and is selected from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, isododecane, liquid paraffin, esters such as isononyl isonanoate, erythrityl tetraethylanoate, cetyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, cetaryl isononate, undecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the antioxidant is in an amount from 0.2 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight; and is selected from vitamin E, vitamin A, polyphenols or mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, wherein the pH adjuster is in an amount from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight; the sebum regulating agent is in an amount from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; the buffer is in an amount from 0.001 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 2.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.1% by weight; the surfactant is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.008 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.4% by weight;the active compound is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1.5;

8. % by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight; and the preservative is in an amount from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 0.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight; preferably, the pH adjuster is selected from potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine or mixtures thereof; preferably, the sebum-regulating active is selected from zinc gluconate, charcoal, salicylic acid or mixtures thereof; Preferably, the buffer is chosen from citric acid, sodium citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, C12-13 trialkyl citrate, C14-15 trialkyl citrate, tricaprylyl citrate, triethylhexyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, isodecyl citrate, stearyl citrate, dilauryl citrate, ethyl citrate or mixtures thereof;Preferably, the surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, caprylic / capric polyethylene glycol (PEG)-6 glycerides, poloxamer 184, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof; preferably, the active compound is selected from sodium chloride, hydroxyacetophenone, or mixtures thereof; and preferably, the preservative is selected from myrtrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, parabens, pentylene glycol, methylisothiazolinone, benzisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, or mixtures thereof; preferably, the composition has a pH in the range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in the range of 4.3 to 4.7, and more preferably in the range of 4.4 to 4.6; Preferably, the composition is capable of transforming into a monophasic composition;in which preferably the monophasic composition is capable of transforming into a biphasic composition; preferably, the composition is free of silicones; preferably, the composition is free of alcohols. A method for removing makeup, cleansing and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or eyes, body or hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7 is applied to the skin, lips and / or eyes, or hair.

9. Use of the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7 for the removal of makeup, cleansing and / or care of a keratinous layer.

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