A cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one amino acid, and at least one hydroxide of an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound selected from amino acids and their derivatives, and at least one hydroxide of an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium compound. The invention also relates to a method for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, particularly hair, using the composition of the invention. The invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, particularly hair.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one amino acid, and at least one hydroxide of an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound selected from amino acids and their derivatives, and at least one hydroxide of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium.

[0002] The invention also relates to a method for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, implementing the composition of the invention.

[0003] The invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0004] In the hair care sector, consumers want formulas that allow them to achieve a temporary change to their hair, while ensuring the effect lasts. Generally, they want the change to persist through shampooing for at least 15 days, or even longer depending on the nature of the change.

[0005] Heat treatments are generally used to modify the shape of hair in a lasting way. These treatments allow for a visual modification of the hairstyle's appearance, combining a reduction in the degree of curl, a reduction in overall hair volume, a reduction in frizz, improved manageability, a smoother visual appearance, a substantial increase in shine, and resistance to humidity and heat for all-day hairstyle maintenance.

[0006] Furthermore, this type of treatment has the advantage of simplifying daily hair care, requiring fewer hair care products, particularly rinse-out treatments such as conditioners or masks, or leave-in treatments such as serums, conditioning creams or balms, and smoothing mousses. Hair drying is made easier, with significantly reduced blow-drying time and a decrease in the daily use of flat irons, both in terms of duration and intensity. This helps to limit the risk of hair damage from combined mechanical and thermal stress.

[0007] Several technologies are associated with these heat treatments. One technology relies on the use of compositions based on thiol reducing agents. These technologies require strict adherence to the application conditions recommended by the suppliers, particularly in terms of quantity and processing time. Furthermore, they may be contraindicated on excessively sensitized hair and may not They must be compatible with the application of other treatments such as hair coloring or bleaching on the same day. They also have a foul odor.

[0008] Another technology relies on the use of acid-based compositions, and particularly on the use of glyoxylic acid. For example, application WO2011 / 104282 proposed a new process for semi-permanently straightening hair, consisting of applying an alpha-keto acid solution to the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, then drying and finally straightening the hair with a flat iron at a temperature of approximately 200°C. The alpha-keto acid used is preferably glyoxylic acid.

[0009] However, it has been observed that glyoxylic acid may not be well tolerated, particularly when the scalp is sensitive and / or irritated. Its volatility, amplified by the use of heat from a styling iron, can also be problematic. Furthermore, prior art compositions may damage the hair and / or alter its color.

[0010] Treatments using a composition comprising a base combined with a heat treatment for hair straightening have also been proposed. Such treatments allow for good curl relaxation but can lead to alterations in the hair fiber. Document EP1837010 describes, in particular, a straightening / relaxing process using a composition comprising sodium hydroxide and a heat treatment. Document WO2007 / 144707 describes a straightening / relaxing process using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base such as monoethanolamine or ethylenediamine, combined with a heat treatment. Document WO2009 / 117344 also describes a straightening / relaxing process using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base and a protein denaturant combined with a heat treatment.

[0011] To limit damage to hair fibers, it has also been proposed to use compositions comprising weak acids with an alkaline pH combined with heat treatment. Document WO2010 / 049434, for example, describes a smoothing / straightening process in which a composition comprising a dicarboxylic acid such as maleic acid is applied, along with heat treatment. Such treatments are not always satisfactory in terms of results and / or residual effect.

[0012] There is still a need to develop compositions, in particular for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, which make it possible to smooth / straighten and / or reduce hair curl effectively and permanently while limiting hair degradation.

[0013] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more alkanolamines, ii) one or more compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives, and iii) one or more hydroxides of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium, in which the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.

[0014] The composition of the invention makes it possible to provide a relaxation of the curls, that is to say a straightening of the keratin fibers, in an effective and lasting way, the effect being residual to the shampoos and up to several weeks after the treatment.

[0015] The composition of the invention can also be applied to all types of hair, even very sensitized hair, while preserving, or even improving, the cosmetic qualities of the fiber, such as shine, smoothness, and ease of styling (reduction of volume and frizz) as well as their natural appearance with hair that is loose and light, and has a natural feel.

[0016] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to improve the cosmetic feel of the hair, in particular by making it smoother to the touch.

[0017] In addition, the composition of the invention does not give off any bad odor when used.

[0018] The invention also relates to a method for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, implementing the composition of the invention.

[0019] The invention further relates to the use of the composition for smoothing / straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0020] In the context of the present invention, "straightening / relaxing" refers to a process that reduces the level of curl in hair and generally also reduces hair volume. The reduction in curl can extend to complete hair straightening.

[0021] Other features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent from the description and examples that follow.

[0022] In what follows the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0023] Alkanolamines The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine.

[0024] By alkanolamine, we mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, in C1-C8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0025] Alkanolamines chosen from among mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0026] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) is / are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, the dusopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.

[0027] Preferably, the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

[0028] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, better from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, dusopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof are present in a total content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 8% by weight, better 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Preferably, monoethanolamine is present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, better from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] Amino acids and their derivatives The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound selected from amino acids and their derivatives.

[0032] Amino acid derivatives can be chosen from their betaine forms, their optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral, and their mixtures.

[0033] The amino acid can be chosen from the following amino acids of formula (I) and (II), as well as their betaine forms, their optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral: (I) (II) Formulas (I) and (II) in which: - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, preferably linear, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least a group chosen from hydroxyl, amino, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O, M+, -S(O)2-O, M+, with M+ representing a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth, or ammonium, - n is 0 or 1.

[0034] In the composition containing them, the amino acid(s) may be found in their non-ionized form (I), (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (I') or (II'): O dh r) Formulas in which R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Cr C5 alkyl group, possibly substituted by a hydroxyl, amino, or carboxylate group, n is 0 or 1.

[0035] The amino acid(s) or their salt(s) may be chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine, taurine, lysine, arginine and their salts, in particular sodium glycinate, sodium alanilate, sodium serinate, lithium beta alaninate, sodium taurate.

[0036] Preferably the amino acids are chosen from sulfonic amino acids, preferably from those of formula (II), more preferably taurine.

[0037] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound selected from taurine, as well as its betaine forms, its optical isomers, its solvates such as hydrates, and its salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Taurine, or 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, is an amino acid with the formula NH2-CH2-CH2-SO3H.

[0039] Taurine may be present in non-ionized form (II') or in ionized form (II”), as defined above.

[0040] Preferably, the compound or compounds chosen from taurine and its derivatives are chosen from taurine and its salts, in particular sodium taurate, potassium taurate, magnesium taurate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably taurine.

[0041] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from among the amino acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, better from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from among the sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, better from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from taurine and its derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, better from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Preferably, taurine, its betaine forms, its optical isomers, its solvates such as hydrates, and its salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral, and their mixtures are present in a total content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 6% by weight, better 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate and taurine, and preferably taurine, are present in a total content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 6% by weight, better 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides.

[0047] By alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide is meant a compound of formula M(OH)x in which M is a metal chosen from the alkali or alkaline earth metals and x is equal to 1 or 2.

[0048] Alkali metal hydroxides can in particular be selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Alkaline earth metal hydroxides may in particular be selected from magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Ammonium hydroxide is the compound with the formula NH40H.

[0051] Preferably, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides will be used.

[0052] Preferably, the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and their mixtures, preferably from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and their mixtures.

[0053] Preferably, the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are present in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, better 0.6 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Preferably, the alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide(s) are present in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, better 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkali metal hydroxide which may be present in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, better 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Preferably, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof are present in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, better 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] According to the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.

[0058] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1.1, preferably strictly greater than 1.2.

[0059] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better between 1.3 and 2.

[0060] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from among the sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives is strictly greater than 1, preferably strictly greater than 1.1, better greater than 1.2.

[0061] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from among the sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better between 1.3 and 2.

[0062] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from taurine and its derivatives is greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.1, better greater than 1.2.

[0063] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from taurine and its derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better between 1.3 and 2.

[0064] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of monoethanolamine and the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and their mixtures is greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.1, better greater than 1.2.

[0065] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of monoethanolamine and the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and their mixtures is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better between 1.3 and 2.

[0066] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total monoethanolamine content and the total taurine content is greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.1, better greater than 1.2.

[0067] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total monoethanolamine content and the total taurine content is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better between 1.3 and 2.

[0068] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is greater than 1, preferably is between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 8.

[0069] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total alkanolamine content(s) and the total alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide content is greater than 1, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 8

[0070] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of monoethanolamine and the total content of sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide is greater than 1, preferably is between 2 and 10, more preferably between 4 and 8.

[0071] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives and of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) is greater than 1, preferably is between 1.1 and 3, more preferably between 1.1 and 2.

[0072] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from taurine and its derivatives and of alkali metal hydroxide(s) is greater than 1, preferably is between 1.1 and 3, more preferably between 1.1 and 2

[0073] Preferably, the composition of the invention is an aqueous composition. In particular, it may comprise water or water and one or more solvents.

[0074] Preferably, the water content generally ranges from 10 to 99% by weight, preferably from 30 to 95% by weight, preferably from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Organic solvents are preferred as solvents. In particular, water-soluble solvents such as C1-C7 alcohols can be cited; in particular, aliphatic monoalcohols in C1-C7, such as ethanol, or aromatic monoalcohols in C6-C7, or even C2-C6 polyols, such as glycerin, pentylene glycol, which can be used alone or in mixture with water.

[0076] When the composition is aqueous, the pH varies preferably from 7 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12.5, better from 9 to 12, better still from 10 to 11.5.

[0077] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one alkanolamine, - at least one compound chosen from taurine and its derivatives, and - at least one alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide, preferably at least one alkali metal hydroxide; with a weight ratio between the total alkanolamine content(s) and the total taurine content and / or its derivatives greater than 1.

[0078] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and their mixtures, more preferably monoethanolamine.

[0079] Preferably, the alkali metal hydroxide or hydroxides is or are chosen from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Thickening agents The composition according to the invention may also include one or more thickening agents.

[0081] For the purposes of the present invention, a thickening agent is understood to be an agent which, by its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs, preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0082] The thickening agent(s) may be chosen from fatty acid amides obtained from C10-C30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanol-amide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), polymer thickeners, and in particular the polysaccharides, including cellulosic polymers as described below, guar gums, gum arabic, gums of microbial origin (scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] According to one variant, the thickening polymer is a polysaccharide of natural or synthetic origin.

[0084] The polysaccharide polymers useful to the invention are cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably non-ionic.

[0085] The term “polysaccharide polymers” means polymers with sugar motifs.

[0086] By sugar motif, in the context of the present invention, means a motif derived from a carbohydrate of formula Cn(H2O)ni or (CH2O)n which may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0087] As sugar motifs, the polymers useful to the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0088] Examples of polysaccharide polymers include those derived from native gums such as:

[0089] a) tree or shrub exudates, including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0090] b) gums derived from algae, of which: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (galactose sulfate polymers and (anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0091] c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0092] d) microbial gums, of which: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0093] e) plant extracts including: - cellulose (polymer of glucose); - starch (polymer of glucose) and - Inulin.

[0094] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Temperature can be one example of a physical treatment.

[0095] Examples of chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, non-ionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0096] Preferably these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0097] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP 105 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0098] Polysaccharide polymers can be cellulosic polymers.

[0099] Thus, cellulosic polymers can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0100] Among these cellulosic polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0101] Among cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, or phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates, or acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyrates and acetatepropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0102] Among non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fat chain i.e., "non-associative," examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); and (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g. Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0103] The polysaccharide(s) according to the invention can be chosen from among microbial gums.

[0104] Microbial gums can be selected from scleroglucan gums, gellan gums, pullulan gums, curdlar gums, xanthan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.

[0105] Examples include scleroglucan gums produced by Sclerotium rolfsii, gellan gums produced by Pseudomonas elodea or Sphingomonias, pullulan gums produced by Aureobacidium pullulens, Curdlar gums produced by Faecalis myxogens type alkaligens, xanthan gums produced by many organisms including Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Leuconostoc dextrantum, grifolan gums produced by Grifola frondara, lentinan gums produced by Lentinus edodes, Schizophyllan gums produced by Schizophyllum commine, spirulinan gums produced by Spirulina sybsyla and krestin gums produced by Coriates versicolor.

[0106] Preferably, the thickening agent(s) are chosen from polysaccharides, preferably from guar gums, better from non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0107] When present, the thickening agent(s) is or are generally present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] When present, the polysaccharide polymer(s) is or are generally present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] Cationic polymers The composition according to the invention may also include one or more cationic polymers, preferably non-siliconized, different from the thickening agents previously described.

[0110] The usable cationic polymer(s) may be chosen from associative cationic polymers, non-associative cationic polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0111] For the purposes of this invention, "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups. Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or be attached to a side substituent directly linked thereto.

[0112] The cationic polymers possibly present in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from among all those already known in themselves as improving the cosmetic properties of hair, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

[0113] The polymer or polymers are chosen from non-siliconized polymers.

[0114] Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly linked to it.

[0115] Among cationic polymers, we can mention in particular polymers of the type polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium.

[0116] These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents no. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997.

[0117] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) used in the smoothing composition is or are chosen from the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, INCI name Polyquaternium-6, such as the product sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company NALCO (and its counterparts of low average molecular weight) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, INCI name Polyquaternium-7, such as the products marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550", "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0118] The cationic polymer(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] According to one variant, the composition of the invention comprises at least one thickening agent selected from polysaccharides and at least one cationic polymer as defined above.

[0120] Surfactants The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic and cationic surfactants.

[0121] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants.

[0122] Among non-ionic surfactants, oxyalkylated fatty alcohols, in particular oxyethylated ones, preferably C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, can be used.

[0123] When present, the total surfactant content may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] Fatty body The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more fatty substances.

[0125] The fat or fats are preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0126] By way of example, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can be selected from liquid hydrocarbons ranging from C6 to C16; these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and preferably saturated. Examples include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably selected from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil) oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can also be selected from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, we can cite mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.

[0129] Fatty alcohols in the C8-C30 range are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in the C8-C24 range, preferably in the C12-C22 range.

[0130] Fatty alcohols can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.

[0131] Preferably the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, silicones and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] When present, the total fat content may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic, or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the H / W, W / O or multiple type; a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (H / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, a cream or any other cosmetic form.

[0134] Process The present invention also relates to a method for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, using the composition as described above.

[0135] More specifically, the process of smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, particularly hair, comprises: a) an application step on said keratin fibers of a composition such as described above, b) at least one rinsing step of said fibres, c) possibly a drying step of said fibres, and d) a smoothing / straightening step of the keratin fibres during which at least one heat treatment is applied to said fibres.

[0136] Preferably, the straightening / smoothing step is carried out at a temperature above 50°C, preferably between 80 and 250°C.

[0137] Step a) may optionally be preceded by a washing step with shampoo and / or a rinsing step, preferably with water.

[0138] The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet fibers, said fibers having been previously shampooed and / or rinsed, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.

[0139] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to dry or damp hair, more preferably damp, said hair having been previously shampooed and / or rinsed, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.

[0140] The application of the composition in step a) can be carried out by any means, such as by means of a brush or comb or even with the fingers.

[0141] Preferably, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin fibers in step i) ranges from 10 to 90 minutes, preferably from 10 to 60 minutes, more preferably from 15 to 45 minutes.

[0142] For the purposes of the present invention, the exposure time is the contact time of the composition on the keratin fibers.

[0143] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is left to set on the keratin fibers at room temperature.

[0144] For the purposes of this invention, ambient temperature means a temperature ranging from 20°C to 37°C.

[0145] Preferably, the rinsing step b) is a water rinse.

[0146] The rinsing step b) can be carried out once or several times.

[0147] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a drying step c) of the keratin fibers carried out after the rinsing step b) and before the straightening / straightening step d).

[0148] The drying step c) can be carried out by air drying or by means of a conventional drying device such as a hair dryer or a helmet.

[0149] Preferably, the drying step c) is carried out at a temperature below 100°C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 40 to 95°C.

[0150] The straightening / straightening step d) includes at least one heat treatment applied to said keratin fibers. That is to say, heat is applied to said keratin fibers during the implementation of the straightening / straightening step at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 110°C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferably ranging from 110°C to 250°C, simultaneously or sequentially with a mechanical action.

[0151] In other words, such a device can be a heating device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibers to produce the smoothing / straightening, this mechanical action being able to be implemented simultaneously or sequentially with the application of heat.

[0152] This heat treatment can be carried out by a device that exerts mechanical action on the keratin fibers to produce the straightening / straightening effect. Examples include blow-drying with a brush and hairdryer, a flat iron, a flat iron capable of generating steam during the treatment such as the Steampod© straightening tool which applies steam to the fibers and then straightens them, and heated polyester films.

[0153] Preferably, the straightening / straightening step d) is carried out with at least one straightening iron or a straightening iron capable of generating steam on the keratin fibers, at a temperature greater than or equal to 110°C.

[0154] The heat treatment of the fibers can also be carried out using a hair dryer or a heating helmet, for example of the Climazon® type blowing or an infrared heating helmet, the pressing of the fibers to obtain the smoothing then being carried out manually, for example with a comb or a brush.

[0155] Preferably, the heat treatment of step d) is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 110°C, preferably at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferably ranging from 110°C to 250°C.

[0156] The application of heat can vary, for example, from 5 to 30 minutes, preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.

[0157] The implementation of the process of the invention can be followed by a step of shaping the keratin fibers, for example by brushing. That is to say, step d) can be followed by a step of shaping the keratin fibers, for example by brushing.

[0158] When the straightening / straightening step is carried out using a flat iron, it may be necessary to make several passes with the flat iron, generally between 1 and 10 passes, preferably between 3 and 5 passes, each pass being carried out for between 5 and 40 seconds. According to a particular embodiment with the flat iron, the total time for treating the hair strands is at most 1 minute.

[0159] The process according to the invention can be implemented on sensitized or non-sensitized keratin fibers.

[0160] Preferably, the process for straightening and / or smoothing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises successively: (i) an application step on moist keratin fibers of at least one composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound selected from taurine and its derivatives, and at least one alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide; the weight ratio between the alkanolamine and the compound selected from taurine and its derivatives is greater than 1; preferably, the application time of the composition varies from 5 to 90 minutes, ii) at least one step of rinsing the keratin fibers, iii) optionally a drying step for the keratin fibers, (iv) a smoothing / straightening step of the keratin fibers during which at least one heat treatment is applied to said fibers.

[0161] Preferably, in accordance with this preferred embodiment, the heat treatment varies from 110°C to 280°C, more preferably from 110°C to 250°C.

[0162] Preferably, in accordance with this preferred embodiment, the alkanolamine is chosen from among the mono-, di- or trialcanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine.

[0163] The invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0164] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0165] Examples In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Example 1

[0166] a) Composition Compositions A to E according to the invention and comparative compositions F and G were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below:

[0167] [Tables 1] Comparative Invention ABCDEF Taurine 3.375 3.75 3.75 3.375 3.75 5.625 Monoethanolamine 6 5.625 4.5 6 5.625 3.75 Sodium Hydroxide 0.875 0.875 0.875 - - 0.875 Potassium Hydroxide - - - 1.125 1.125 - Water QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO MEA / Taurine Ratio 1.8 1.5 1.2 1.8 1.5 0.7

[0168] The performance of compositions A, B (according to the invention) and F (comparative) is then evaluated according to the protocol detailed below.

[0169] b) Protocol Strands of Curl Type V curly hair (2.7g) are pre-washed with shampoo. Composition A, B or F is then applied to damp hair at a rate of 1g of composition per gram of strand. The compositions are left to set on the wicks for 30 minutes in open air and at room temperature. The strands are rinsed with water by passing fingers under the water 20 times. The strands are dried with a hairdryer and then straightened using a straightener at a temperature of 230°C (5 passes).

[0170] An assessment of curl reduction is carried out after 1 shampoo and after 5 shampoos.

[0171] c) Results The results are presented in the table below:

[0172] [Tables2] Time Evaluation Composition A Composition B Composition F After 1 shampoo Curl reduction Straightened hair, no curls Straightened hair, no curls Presence of curls and / or waves After 5 shampoos Curl reduction Straightened hair, no curls Straightened hair, no curls -

[0173] Compositions A and B according to the invention (with a monoethanolamine / taurine ratio greater than 1) allow for better relaxation of the loops compared to the comparative composition F.

[0174] In addition, the relaxation of the curls obtained with compositions A and B according to the invention is durable and resistant to shampoos.

[0175] Example 2 Composition H according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below:

[0176] [Tables3] Ingredients Quantity in % MA Taurine 3.75 Monoethanolamine 5.625 Sodium Hydroxide 0.875 Cl3-16 Isoalkane 5 Fatty Alcohol 2.5 Dimethicone 0.1 Hydroxypropyl Guar 1.5 Non-ionic Surfactants 4 Organic solvents 10 Water Qs 100

[0177] Composition H according to the invention has a pH of 10.7.

[0178] When applying composition H according to the application protocol described above, a lasting smoothing effect is obtained, with no odor during the application of composition H. After 15 shampoos, the hair is still smooth, disciplined, individualized and easy to style.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more alkanolamines, ii) one or more compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives selected from sulfonic amino acids and their derivatives, and iii) one or more hydroxides of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium in which the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives is greater than 1- and the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of hydroxides of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium is between 2 and 10.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkanolamine(s) are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof, preferably the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkanolamine(s) are present in a total content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, better 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) selected from amino acids and their derivatives are selected from taurine and its derivatives, preferably from taurine and its salts, better from taurine, sodium taurate, potassium taurate, magnesium taurate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the compound selected from amino acids and their derivatives is taurine.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) selected from the acids amino acids and their derivatives are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, better 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are selected from alkali metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are present in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, better 0.6 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives is between 1.1 and 5, preferably between 1.2 and 3, better between 1.3 and 2.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is between 4 and 8.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of alkanolamine(s) and the total content of compounds selected from amino acids and their derivatives, as defined in claim 1, and of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is greater than 1, preferably is between 1 and 3, more preferably between 1.1 and 2.

11. A method for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, employing at least one composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.

12. Use of at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 10, for smoothing and / or straightening keratin fibers, in particular hair.