Active ingredient derived from a protein isolate of Oryza sativa to combat skin inflammation.
The Oryza Sativa protein isolate addresses the lack of effective anti-inflammatory ingredients by reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines and enhancing hydration, effectively alleviating skin and scalp inflammation and improving hair quality.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023007738
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-24
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic products lack effective anti-inflammatory ingredients that specifically target skin and scalp inflammation by reducing the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as interleukin-1α and interleukin-8, while also providing hydration benefits.
A particular extract from Oryza Sativa protein isolate, preferably enzymatic hydrolysate, is used to combat skin and scalp inflammation by decreasing the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines and increasing hydration, with a process involving solubilization, hydrolysis, thermal treatment, and concentration.
The Oryza Sativa protein isolate effectively reduces skin and scalp inflammation, as evidenced by decreased redness and increased hydration, with significant reductions in interleukin-8 secretion and improved hair quality over time.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Active ingredient from a protein isolate of Oryza sativa to combat skin inflammation. Technical field
[0001] The invention relates to an active ingredient obtained from a plant raw material, namely a protein isolate of Oryza sativa, and its uses. The active ingredient aims to combat inflammatory skin problems and its cosmetic effects, such as the appearance of redness. State of the art
[0002] Our skin is constantly subjected to numerous attacks. These attacks can be of environmental origin such as pollution, cold, or wind, but also biological or chemical. These more or less inevitable factors contribute to weakening the skin, to the appearance of feelings of discomfort: itching, tightness, tingling, etc. and to the appearance of redness. These sensitivities, mainly felt on the face, can also appear in other parts of the body, for example on the scalp. The cosmetic market has many active ingredients that have the effect of fighting against inflammatory skin problems, however, men and women with sensitive skin are demanding alternative and innovative ingredients in this area.
[0003] Under the influence of various stimuli (cold, chemical irritants, stress, mechanical friction (clothing, etc.) the skin is capable of responding to attacks, initiating or inhibiting inflammatory reactions and participating in immune processes. To do this, keratinocyte cells synthesize and diffuse intercellular communication mediators, namely cytokines, into the epidermis. These soluble factors create complex networks of biological reactions. They act through membrane receptors which, after activation, release messages intended for other cell types.
[0004] Once activated by these different factors, the keratinocytes will rapidly release the first cytokines including interleukin 1a (IL-1a). This causes the synthesis of chemotactic factors such as molecules of the interleukin 8 (IL-8) family. These chemotactic molecules participate not only in cell recruitment at the inflammatory site but also in cell activation. IL-8 and related molecules then cause neutrophil degranulation and stimulate oxidative stress allowing the formation of free radicals as well as the formation of inflammatory mediators. This inflammation leads to itching and redness, exacerbated in sensitive skin. Controlling the cutaneous inflammatory phenomenon is therefore an essential route of action in the care of sensitive skin.
[0005] Furthermore, it is commonly accepted that sensitive skin also undergoes an alteration of the barrier function leading to dehydration which contributes to the appearance of feelings of tightness, irritation and discomfort.
[0006] Finally, it has also been demonstrated that a disruption of the scalp such as irritation linked to stress, excessive use of shampoo or mechanical drying, leads to an alteration of the quality of the hair. Indeed, a disruption of the hair cuticle at its point of emergence hinders the anchoring of the fibers and thus leads to more fragile and brittle cuticles resulting in accelerated physical degradation. This degradation induces vulnerability of the hair to mechanical aggressions and compromises its overall quality.
[0007] There is therefore a need for new active ingredients, intended for cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic use, to combat skin inflammation and its effects, in particular, to combat the weakening of the skin and the appearance of redness.
[0008] During his research work, the inventor identified a particular extract of Oryza sativa proteins which can act both on the skin and on the hair environment in order to limit the effects of skin inflammation and thus meet this need.
[0009] The inventor was particularly interested in the plant species Oryza sativa to develop this new naturally derived ingredient to combat inflammatory problems. This active ingredient acts to soothe irritated skin by reducing the release of cellular mediators of inflammation (interleukin-1a and 8) but also by moisturizing the irritated areas.
[0010] There are many Oryza sativa extracts used as cosmetic ingredients. For example, the extract described in patent FR2825925 has a nutritional action for the skin thanks to a cell proliferation action and better diffusion of oxygen in the cells. The extract described in patent FR2945444 describes, more particularly, an agent increasing the expression of nicotinic acetylcholine receptors to improve or repair the barrier function. Furthermore, many hair products containing Oryza sativa extracts are also available on the market, however these products are used for their anti-sebum activities. Indeed, rice starch is well known for absorbing excess sebum from the scalp. None of these products, although close to that of the present application, describes an anti-inflammatory efficacy via cellular mediators of inflammation.This is the object of the present invention. Summary of the invention
[0011] Thus, the invention relates to a particular extract of Oryza saliva, and / or an active principle comprising said particular extract of Oryza saliva for its use in combating skin inflammation.
[0012] More preferably, said Oryza saliva extract aims to specifically combat inflammation by acting against the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines. To achieve this, said extract reduces the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines, namely interleukin-1a and / or interleukin-8.
[0013] Therefore, said extract reduces skin inflammation, which advantageously results in a reduction in redness of the scalp or skin. Said extract also allows an increase in hydration of the scalp or skin.
[0014] Said extract of Oryza saliva used to combat inflammation, in particular to act against the undesirable cosmetic effects linked to skin inflammation, such as the increase in feelings of discomfort, in particular the appearance of redness, tightness, itching, tingling, is an extract derived from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva.
[0015] Preferably, this extract from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva is a hydrolyzate, even more preferably, the hydrolyzate is an enzymatic hydrolyzate.
[0016] According to another object, the extract comprises at least 62% of peptides by weight of dry matter of the extract, these being preferably peptides with a molar mass of less than 1400 Da.
[0017] Finally, according to another preferred object, in order to optimize the effectiveness of the active ingredient, the extract is capable of being obtained by a process comprising at least the following steps: a. Solubilization of a protein isolate of Oryza saliva in water at a rate of at least 5% by weight, b. Extraction by hydrolysis(s), preferably enzymatic hydrolysis(s) c. Heat treatment, d. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, e. Concentration of the soluble phase, f. Possibly, deodorization and / or discoloration, g. Optionally, filtration and sterilizing filtration.
[0018] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least 0.1% of the active ingredient according to the invention, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0019] Thus, the invention also relates to the use of the composition comprising said active ingredient for combating inflammation, more particularly any of the uses of the active ingredient according to the invention previously described, intended for a cosmetic treatment, in topical application to the skin.
[0020] Other characteristics and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention, the examples and the figures which follow. Detailed description of the invention
[0021] Definition
[0022] By "particular extract of Oryza saliva" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant at least one molecule or any molecule or mixture of at least two molecules obtained from a raw material, namely rice, in particular the species Oryza saliva, regardless of the extraction process of said molecule(s). It may be for example an extract obtained by aqueous and / or hydroalcoholic and / or hydroglycolic extraction and / or obtained after at least one hydrolysis step, for example enzymatic or acid.
[0023] For the purposes of the invention, the term "Oryza saliva hydrolysate" means an extract from the plant species Oryza saliva, obtained by a process comprising at least one step of hydrolysis of Oryza saliva. The term Oryza saliva hydrolysate excludes molecules produced solely by fermentation of Oryza saliva by a microorganism or an infusion / decoction / maceration of Oryza saliva. Thus, for the purposes of the invention, such an extract is an ingredient derived from natural sources obtained by specific and defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying it, modifications which are intentional, and which make it possible to obtain structures of molecules which are therefore no longer identical to the molecules present in nature.
[0024] By "extract from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an extract of Oryza saliva as defined above, in which the extract is obtained specifically from a protein isolate or a protein concentrate, that is to say that the raw material, namely Oryza saliva, undergoes a concentration step which makes it possible to obtain at least 80% of protein on the total dry matter. Those skilled in the art know that a protein isolate is obtained from an aqueous extraction of rice grains. The product of this extraction undergoes wet grinding and then the proteins are precipitated in order to separate them from the starch before being dried.
[0025] By "active ingredient" within the meaning of the invention, we mean an extract comprising at least one molecule, preferably a set of molecules having an effect on skin inflammation, particularly when applied topically.
[0026] Active ingredient according to the invention
[0027] The subject of the present invention is therefore an active ingredient comprising at least one extract of Oryza saliva, more particularly an extract derived from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva.
[0028] Rice, Oryza saliva is a species of annual herbaceous semi-aquatic plant of the Poaceae family, subfamily Oryzoideae, native to tropical regions of Asia. Oryza saliva is the third most produced crop in the world and grows at sea level and up to 2000 meters above sea level. Extracts of Oryza saliva in cosmetics are already known. Indeed, there are many extracts of Oryza saliva, derived from different parts of the plant and many manufacturing processes. These extracts can be used for their nutritional action, on the barrier function, as an anti-sebum or even for anti-aging and anti-aging effects.
[0029] However, surprisingly, the inventor has identified that a particular extract from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva makes it possible to combat skin inflammation.
[0030] The subject of the present invention is therefore an active ingredient comprising at least one extract derived from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva, for its use in combating skin inflammation.
[0031] The inventor has characterized the proteins of the active ingredient according to the invention. Thus, according to a preferred subject of the invention, the extract from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva comprises proteins, these advantageously representing at least 62% by weight relative to the dry matter.
[0032] Very preferably, the proteins present in the extract comprising the active ingredient according to the invention preferably have a molar mass of less than 1400 Da. Advantageously, these proteins represent at least 62% by weight of the total weight of the proteins in the extract.
[0033] The protein content can be determined by the determination of total nitrogen according to the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC, 12th ed. W Horwitz, ED, New York, 15-60, 1975) or according to the LOWRY method (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265, 1951). This is then advantageously between 10 and 100 g / l and more particularly between 40 and 60 g / l.
[0034] In a particularly preferred manner, the extract is capable of being obtained by a process comprising at least the following steps: a. Solubilization of a protein isolate of Oryza saliva in water at a rate of at least 5% by weight, b. Extraction by hydrolysis, preferably enzymatic hydrolysis(s) c. Heat treatment, d. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, e. Concentration of the soluble phase, f. Possibly, deodorization and / or discoloration, g. Optionally, filtration and sterilizing filtration.
[0035] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one excipient chosen from a preservative, an antioxidant, a stabilizer, an atomization support, and / or their combination.
[0036] The extract according to the invention present in the cosmetic active ingredient can be in liquid form or in solid form or in film form.
[0037] When it is presented in liquid form, the active ingredient according to the invention consists exclusively of the extract of Oryza saliva accompanied by a stabilizer and / or preservation system.
[0038] The extract in liquid form is preferably in the form of a clear liquid aqueous solution, with a weak odor and a yellow color.
[0039] When it is in liquid form, the dry matter content of the extract can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from drying the extract according to the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Preferably, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has a dry matter content of 20 g / L to 150 g / L, preferably of 55 g / L to 70 g / L.
[0040] When it is in solid form, the active ingredient according to the invention is preferably constituted by the extract of Oryza saliva as previously described and by a support chosen from maltodextrin, gum arabic or soy lecithin. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract represents at least 10% by weight of the active ingredient and the support at most 90% by weight of the active ingredient.
[0041] In the case of a solid form in which the active ingredient is associated with a carrier, the protein contents relative to the dry matter in the active ingredient can be modified since the carriers (maltodextrin, gum arabic) are exclusively saccharides.
[0042] The active ingredient according to the invention can also be presented in the form of a film as described in patent FR3079145. In this case, the Oryza saliva extract preferably represents at least 0.1% by weight of the film.
[0043] When presented in film form, the active ingredient comprises: at least the Oryza saliva extract according to the invention. at least one mineral charge, and at least one polymer of natural origin, and at least one plasticizer, and at least one surfactant.
[0044] The polymer of natural origin can be chosen from: Pectin, Tamarind gum, Alginate, Pullulan, Psyllium, Xanthan, Guar, Tara, Carob, Agar, Gum arabic, Gellan, Dextran, Carrageenan, Cellulose, Konjac and Chitosan.
[0045] The plasticizer can be chosen from: Glycerol, Sorbitol, Sucrose, Erythritol, Urea, Propylene glycol and Butylene glycol.
[0046] The mineral filler can be chosen from: Calcium carbonate, green clay, kaolin, perlite, talc, magnesium silicate, mica, diatomaceous sericite, silica, calcium sulfate, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, iron oxide and zinc oxide.
[0047] The active ingredient may further comprise a pigment for coloring the film.
[0048] Composition according to the invention
[0049] The active ingredient according to the invention may optionally be integrated into a composition, in particular a composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of said active ingredient and a physiologically acceptable medium, preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium.
[0050] These compositions may be in particular in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water / Oil / Water or Oil / Water / Oil) which may optionally be microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels, powders, or foundation or in the form of a film. They may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of creams, emulsions, gels, masks or any other aspects known to those skilled in the art.
[0051] Preferably, these may be compositions comprising between 0.1 and 20% of the active ingredient according to the invention, in particular in liquid form, more preferably between 1 and 10%.
[0052] These compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable medium such as a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause sensations of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.
[0053] The compositions according to the invention may also contain as an ingredient at least one compound chosen from: - oils, which may be chosen in particular from silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile, - waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or camauba wax, - silicone elastomers, - surfactants, preferably emulsifying surfactants, whether non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, - co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, - thickeners and / or gelling agents, - humectants, such as polyols like glycerin, - colorants, preservatives, fillers, - tensors, - sequestrants, - perfumes, - and their mixtures, without this list being exhaustive.
[0054] Examples of such ingredients are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).
[0055] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible complementary compounds, active or non-active, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not significantly, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0056] Process for preparing the extract according to the invention
[0057] The extract constituting or contained in the active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any means.
[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the extraction method comprises at least one extraction step from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva, such as at least one hydrolysis, preferably at least one enzymatic hydrolysis.
[0059] According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the active ingredient according to the invention is obtained by implementing the following steps: a. Solubilization of a protein isolate of Oryza saliva in water at a rate of at least 5% by weight b. Extraction by hydrolysis, preferably enzymatic hydrolysis(s) c. Heat treatment, d. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, and e. Concentration of the soluble phase, f. Possibly, deodorization and / or discoloration, g. Optionally, filtration and sterilizing filtration.
[0060] The heat treatment step is advantageously carried out to inactivate the enzyme(s) present. This inactivation is then carried out according to the recommendations of the supplier of the enzyme(s) used.
[0061] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase.
[0062] The extract obtained at this stage can optionally be further concentrated and / or purified, preferably by successive ultrafiltration steps through membranes of different porosity, retaining the active molecules at each step and / or by a chromatographic type method.
[0063] The extract obtained after hydrolysis and concentration, before or after concentration and sterilizing filtration, is an extract of Oryza saliva, and constitutes a first form of the active ingredient according to the invention, then appearing in liquid form.
[0064] The extract obtained can then be dried and combined or not with a support, to be presented in solid form. This phase can be carried out by implementing the following steps: - an atomization carrier, preferably maltodextrin, is added to the Oryza saliva extract, at most 90% (mass / volume); - this solution is then concentrated under vacuum; - antimicrobial treatment can be carried out; - atomization makes it possible to obtain a powder.
[0065] The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are customary in the field of extractions of active ingredients from natural raw materials and those skilled in the art are able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of their general knowledge.
[0066] Use of the active ingredient according to the invention
[0067] The active ingredient according to the invention or the composition according to the invention therefore aims to combat skin inflammation. Thus, according to one object, the invention relates to the active ingredient according to the invention or the composition according to the invention for its use in reducing inflammation of the skin and / or the scalp.
[0068] Indeed, a large number of inflammatory reactions are known to be initiated in the body, and the active ingredient according to the invention acts, surprisingly, specifically against pro-inflammatory cytokines chosen from interleukin-1a, interleukin-8, and their combination.
[0069] The active ingredient according to the invention or the composition according to the invention thus acts on the effects of skin inflammation, preferentially to reduce redness of the scalp and / or the active ingredient according to the invention or the composition according to the invention makes it possible to increase the hydration of the scalp.
[0070] Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention or the composition according to the invention is intended to be used on healthy skin and scalp in order to reduce inflammation.
[0071] Thus, according to one object, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to any of the embodiments previously described or of a composition comprising it, intended for a cosmetic treatment in topical application to the skin and / or the scalp, in particular to increase its hydration.
[0072] According to another object, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to any of the embodiments previously described or of a composition comprising it, intended for a cosmetic treatment in topical application to the scalp, in particular to improve the quality of the hair.
[0073] The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of compositions according to the invention and by results. Examples
[0074] Example 1: Active ingredient according to the invention
[0075] The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained from the plant species Oryza sativa. The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained by the following process: a. Solubilization of an Oryza sativa protein isolate in water at a rate of at less than 5% by weight b. Extraction by enzymatic hydrolysis c. Heat treatment, d. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, and e. Concentration of the soluble phase, f. Filtration.
[0076] The active ingredient according to example 1 consists of an extract of Oryza sativa having in particular the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content = 68.6 g / L, including: - Protein content = 51.7 g / l or 75%, by weight relative to the material dried - Mineral ash content = 11% by weight relative to dry matter - Total sugar content = 12% by weight relative to dry matter
[0077] The characterization and quantification of the amino acids of the active ingredient according to Example 1 were carried out by liquid chromatography after hydrolysis of the sample. The distribution of the different amino acids is shown in Table 1.
[0078] [Tableauxl] Amino Acid Name Distribution (%) Alanine 6.1 Arginine 10.5 Aspartic Acid 8.0 Glutamic Acid 18.5 Glycine 4.6 Histidine 3.0 Isoleucine 2.0 Leucine 9.2 Lysine 4.0 Methionine 1.1 Phenylalanine 8.1 Serine 7.6 Threonine 3.3 Tyrosine 9.1 Valine 4.6
[0079] Example 2: Active ingredient outside the invention (HII)
[0080] The product (HI1) is obtained by implementing the following steps: a. solubilization in water of bran and germ of Oryza sativa at a rate of 100 g / L, b. Enzymatic hydrolysis, c. a molecular sorting step, intended to select the molecules, d. enzymatic inactivation by heat treatment, e. deodorization, f. filtrations and sterilizing filtration.
[0081] The active ingredient obtained has the following analytical characteristics: - Dry matter content: 24.5 g / L, including: - Protein content: 5.5 g / L or 22% by weight of dry matter - Total sugar content: 50% by weight of dry matter - Mineral ash content: 28% by weight of dry matter.
[0082] The characterization and quantification of the amino acids of the active ingredient according to Example 2 were carried out by liquid chromatography after hydrolysis of the sample. The distribution of the different amino acids is shown in Table 2.
[0083] [Tables2] Amino Acid Name Distribution (%) Alanine 9.6 Arginine 9.6 Aspartic Acid 13.5 Glutamic Acid 15.4 Cystine 0.0 Glycine 5.8 Histidine 0.0 Isoleucine 5.8 Leucine 15.4 Lysine 7.7 Phenylalanine 0.0 Proline 0.0 Serine 7.7 Threonine 5.8 Tyrosine 0.0 Valine 3.8
[0084] The differences between the active ingredient according to example 2 and the active ingredient according to the invention are the origin of the original raw material (respectively rice bran and germ and a protein isolate) and the protein content relative to the dry matter content.
[0085] Evaluation of the effectiveness of the active ingredient according to the invention
[0086] Test 1- Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on keratinocyte inflammation
[0087] Test la- Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on skin inflammation induced by solar irradiation
[0088] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention to limit the secretion of interleukins (IL-8, IL-1a) during inflammation induced by school irradiation.
[0089] The study was carried out by ELISA assay on the culture supernatant of human keratinocytes subjected to solar irradiation (UVA + UVB).
[0090] The study protocol is as follows. Normal human keratinocytes are seeded in culture medium and incubated at 37°C, then irradiations are carried out using a UV lamp with UVA and UVB intensities. The keratinocytes are then placed in the presence of the active ingredient according to the invention or of Example 2 at 0.5% and 1.0%. Finally, the culture supernatants are recovered and the IL-8 and IL-1a assay is carried out using ELISA kits. The results are presented in Table 3 below.
[0091] [Tables3] IL-8 level (pg / mg protein) IL-8 level / irradiated control (%) IL-1a level (pg / mg protein) IL-1a level / irradiated control (%) Normal keratinocytes Control 467 187 Irradiated keratinocytes Control 5680 568 INVENTION at 0.5% 5254 -8 499 -12 INVENTION at 1.0% 3629 -36 360 -37 EXAMPLE 2 at 0.5% 5929 0 597 0 EXAMPLE 2 at 1.0% 5836 0 576 0
[0092] Tested at 1%, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly reduces the secretion of IL-8 and IL-1a by human keratinocytes by -36% and -37% respectively during inflammation induced by solar irradiation. Example 2 does not modify the secretion of IL-8 and IL-1a.
[0093] Test 1b- Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on induced skin inflammation by a solution of sodium lauryl sulfate
[0094] The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the active ingredient according to the invention to limit the secretion of interleukins (IL-8) during inflammation induced by a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) solution.
[0095] The study was carried out by ELISA assay on the culture supernatant of human keratinocytes attacked with SLS.
[0096] The study protocol is as follows. Normal human keratinocytes are seeded in culture medium and incubated at 37°C, then the keratinocytes are treated with a solution of SLS in the presence of the active ingredient according to the invention or of Example 2 at 0.5% and 1.0%. Finally, the culture supernatants are recovered and the IL-8 assay is performed using ELIS A kits. The results are shown in Table 4 below.
[0097] [Tables4] IL-8 level (pg / mg protein) IL-8 level / stressed control (%) Normal keratinocytes Control 134 SLS-stressed keratinocytes Control 2897 INVENTION at 0.5% 2053 -29 INVENTION at 1.0% 1998 -31 EXAMPLE 2 at 1.0% 2732 -6
[0098] Tested at 1%, the active ingredient according to the invention limits the secretion of IL-8 by human keratinocytes by 31% during inflammation induced by an SLS solution. Whereas example 2 modifies the secretion of IL-8 very little.
[0099] Test 2 - Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on scalp inflammation
[0100] This study was carried out on 19 volunteers of average age 55 years who reported having fine and damaged hair and were selected on the basis of the quality of the hair fiber from moderately to very weakened. The volunteers applied the active ingredient formulated at 2.5% daily for 6 months.
[0101] The objective of this study is to evaluate scalp inflammation by studying its color. The study of redness was carried out from acquisitions made at the scalp using the C-Cube Clinical Research dermascope (Pixience, France). The C-Cube is based on an Ultra HD camera, LED lighting and geometric colorimetric calibration. Colorimetric measurements in the L* a* b* space are calculated on a region of interest. The evolution of scalp redness is studied between the different times of the kinetics using the a* parameter characteristic of the red color. The variations in the inflammation rate compared to D0 are presented in Table 5 below.
[0102] [Tables5] Scalp inflammation (variation / day) (%) 2 months -13.4 6 months -62.3
[0103] In conclusion, the active ingredient according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the redness observed on the scalp after 2 months of application. This effect continues and intensifies after 6 months with a reduction in redness of 62.3% in 95% of volunteers.
[0104] Test 3 - Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on the hydration of the scalp
[0105] The objective of this study is to evaluate, in vivo, the moisturizing effect of the active ingredient formulated at 2.5% according to the invention. This study was carried out on the same panel as test 2. Measurements of the scalp hydration rate were carried out using a Comaeometer before application and then after two months and six months. The variations in the hydration rate compared to D0 are presented in Table 6 below.
[0106] [Tableauxô] Hydration rate (variation / day) (%) 2 months 40.0 6 months 37.9
[0107] The active ingredient according to the invention makes it possible to improve scalp hydration from 2 months of treatment and this effect is maintained after 6 months of use. An improvement in hydration is observed in 95% of volunteers from 2 months.
[0108] The active ingredient according to the invention thus helps to soothe the scalp. This effect also has an impact on the quality of the hair visible from 2 to 6 months of treatment.
[0109] Test 4 - Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on hair roughness
[0110] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the Hair roughness. This study was conducted on a panel of 13 women, average age 51, who reported having fine, damaged hair and were selected based on the quality of their hair fiber, ranging from moderately to very weakened. A control group with hair whose hair fiber was not damaged was also studied. The volunteers applied the active ingredient formulated at 2.5% daily for 6 months. The restorative effect of the formulated active ingredient was assessed by quantifying the surface roughness of the hair taken from volunteers. This roughness is directly linked to the quality of the hair. The higher the roughness, the more open the scales, indicating hair that has been damaged by repeated aggressive actions. This surface irregularity prevents the mirror effect of light and makes the hair dull.After selecting an area of interest on the scalp, the hair is cut and collected for analysis by image acquisition using a confocal microscope. The measurement is performed by analyzing the Sq parameter. The results are shown in Table 7, below. [YES] [Tables?] Parameter Sq (mm) Damaged Hair Group -Before treatment 0.283 Damaged Hair Group -After 2 months of treatment 0.251 Damaged Hair Group -After 6 months of treatment 0.233 Healthy Hair Group 0.236
[0112] The active ingredient according to the invention reduces the surface roughness of the hair from 2 months. After 6 months of use, the active ingredient according to the invention allows hair to return to being comparable to healthy hair.
[0113] Test 5 - Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on hair shine
[0114] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on hair shine.
[0115] This effect was evaluated on digital photography of the hair after 2 and 6 months of daily treatment using polarizing filters. The results are presented in Table 8, below.
[0116] [Tables8] Variation / D0 (%) T2 months 3.0 T6 months 10.0
[0117] The active ingredient according to the invention increases shine from 2 months and this effect intensifies after 6 months of use to reach an increase of 10%.
[0118] Test 6 - Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on hair density
[0119] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on hair density. This study was conducted on the same panel as test 2. The measurement is carried out using a dermatoscope combining epiluminescence microscopy and automatic image analysis. The results are presented in Table 9, below.
[0120] [Tables9] Variation / D0 (%) T2 months 6.8 T6 months 7.8
[0121] The active ingredient according to the invention increases hair density from 2 months and this effect continues after 6 months of use to reach an increase of 7.8%. This effect is observed in 83% of volunteers after 6 months of use.
[0122] Test 7 - Study of the active ingredient according to the invention on hair thickness
[0123] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on hair thickness. This study was carried out on the same panel as test 2. The measurement is carried out by quantification under a microscope. The results are presented in Table 10, below.
[0124] [TableauxlO] Variation / D0 (%) T2 months 12 T6 months 12
[0125] The active ingredient according to the invention increases hair thickness by 12% after 2 months and this effect is maintained after 6 months of use. This effect is observed in 89% of volunteers after 6 months of use.
Claims
Claims
1. Active ingredient comprising an extract from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva for use in combating skin inflammation.
2. Active ingredient for its use according to the preceding claim, to combat the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines.
3. Active ingredient for its use according to one of the preceding claims, to reduce the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines chosen from interleukin-1a, interleukin-8, and their combination.
4. Active ingredient for its use according to one of the preceding claims, to reduce redness of the scalp.
5. Active ingredient for its use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract from a protein isolate of Oryza saliva is a hydrolyzate.
6. Active ingredient for its use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the extract is an enzymatic hydrolyzate.
7. Active ingredient for its use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract comprises at least 62% of peptides by weight of dry matter of the extract.
8. Active ingredient for its use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said peptides have a molar mass of less than 1400 Da.
9. Active ingredient for its use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is capable of being obtained by a process comprising at least the following steps: a. Solubilization of a protein isolate of Oryza saliva in water at a rate of at least 5% by weight, b. Extraction by hydrolysis, preferably enzymatic hydrolysis(s) c. Heat treatment, d. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, and e. Concentration of the soluble phase, f. Optionally, deodorization and / or decolorization, g. Optionally, filtration and sterilizing filtration.
10. Use of the active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, to increase the hydration of the scalp.
11. Use of the active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, to improve the quality of the hair.
12. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of a cosmetic active ingredient according to one of claims 1 to 9, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Citation Information
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