Cosmetic composition comprising a specific colorant, a vegetable wax and a specific diester.

Abstract

Topical cosmetic composition comprising one or more vegetable colorants (a), one or more vegetable waxes (b) based on esters possibly hydrogenated and / or transesterified, and one or more diesters (c) of formula (A) R1-CO-O-(CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-)nCO-R2. R1 and R2 independently designating a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and n designating a number from 2 to 15. Process of making up the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, preferably eyelids, using this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a particular colorant, a vegetable wax and a particular diester.

[0001] In the field of cosmetics and in particular makeup, it is known to use colored pigments of mineral origin or of synthetic organic origin either alone or in combination, dispersed in powder formulas or in liquid formulas, creams or in non-powdery solids. Often these pigments are used with fatty substances. However, the pigments mentioned above, particularly synthetic organic pigments, can pose safety concerns. Furthermore, these pigments are not derived from renewable sources and their carbon footprint is not favorable. There is therefore a need to search for substitutes for these synthetic organic pigments. It has therefore been proposed to use organic colored pigments of natural animal origin such as cochineal carmine, which is widely used in cosmetic makeup products, but the animal origin of this product can also put off the user. Colored pigments of plant origin have therefore been proposed to replace existing colored pigments such as madder extract (Rubia Tinctorum extract) in commercial products. Chinese patent applications CN109260036 by GONG CHENGFENG and CN106667874 by PENG ZHICHENG also propose the use of, among other things, anthocyanins, lutein, red tomato pigment on the one hand and red dragon fruit pigment (pitaya) on the other hand. The compositions containing them can pose formulation problems, in particular difficulties in obtaining stable products, easy to thicken and without negative effects when applied to cosmetic substrates, in particular excessively marked greasy and / or sticky effects. There is therefore a need for new coloring cosmetic compositions, in particular makeup and especially pencils for the eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows which can avoid all these disadvantages.

[0002] Document KR20000072916 (A) of the company PACIFIC CO LTD describes a solid foundation of w / o type characterized by comprising a glucomannan, hyaluronic acid, branched [3-1,6-[3-1,3-glucan and sodium alginate. Its preparation process is also described. It is stated in this document that the compositions may contain waxes and These include carnauba wax and candelilla wax, as well as ceresin and beeswax. The possible presence of pigment(s) and emulsifier(s) is also indicated, without further details. The examples describe aqueous compositions comprising among other ingredients candelilla wax, carnauba wax, unspecified pigments and polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate.

[0003] Document CN110893152 (A) of the company SHENZHEN LANTERN SCIENCE CO LTD discloses a cosmetic product for the lips, characterized in that it comprises the following components in percentage by weight: Oil phase matrix 67-91.1% by weight; algae extract 0.5-2% by weight; composite emulsifier 4-8% by weight and wherein, the composite emulsifier comprises a first emulsifier and a second emulsifier, the first emulsifier comprising sunflower wax, jojoba wax, green acacia wax; the second emulsifier comprising poly-glycerol-6 distearate ester, jojoba ester, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax ester, and cetyl alcohol. The presence of synthetic wax and microcrystalline wax in the fatty base is suggested. The algae extracts described are extracts of fucus, spirulina (actually a cyanobacterium) or red algae. It should be noted that spirulina is not an algae but a cyanobacteria. The presence of coloring pigments is not mentioned. It is also stated that the preferred spirulina extract has the functions of whitening agent, anti-radiation, anti-aging, high-efficiency moisturizer, promoting metabolism, increasing skin elasticity. Therefore, it is not a coloring extract. The presence of coloring pigments is not mentioned and moreover no coloring aspect for the compositions of the invention is mentioned. Example 1 of this document, in addition to the spirulina algae extract, includes in its ingredients vegetable waxes (sunflower, jojoba, acacia) associated with non-vegetable waxes (microcrystalline wax, cetacean wax), esters including jojoba esters and polyglyceryl-6 distearate.

[0004] Document KR20010001756 (A) from the company COREANA COSMETICS CO LTD describes a mascara composition comprising a vegetable sugar ester and a modified polyol ester. The first ester is preferably a sucrose ester. The second compound is a product using several ingredients including a silicone compound. The presence of pigment is considered in the text. This is also the case for waxes, beeswax and carnauba wax being cited. The two illustrative examples and the two comparative examples are com aqueous positions comprising among other ingredients black iron oxide and ultramarine, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, camauba wax and candelilla wax.

[0005] Document JPH03190812 (A) from the company TOMBOW PENCIL describes a cosmetic product, (in particular an eyebrow pencil refill, comprising fatty substances such as oils, waxes, fatty acids and hydrocarbons, a colorant and a diluent with a lysine-based surfactant. Examples include among other ingredients lysine-based surfactant, camauba wax, Japanese wax, whale wax, stearic acid, iron oxide or carbon black (comparative example) as colorants.

[0006] Document EP1048285 (A2) from COLOR ACCESS INC describes a cosmetic pencil comprising a cosmetic pencil base in which at least one agglomerated pigment is distributed, in a pencil holder. In the text it is indicated that the pigments can be based on any cosmetically acceptable insoluble or substantially insoluble pigments. Most often, the pigments are based on metal oxides, such as yellow, black, brown or red iron oxides, white titanium dioxide, chromium oxide or a mixture of any combination thereof. However, the agglomerated or granular pigment can also be based on lakes, pigments formed by the precipitation and absorption of organic colorants on an insoluble base, such as alumina, barium or calcium hydrates. The most preferred agglomerated particles are iron oxides and titanium dioxides. It is also indicated that the cosmetic base may contain one or more vegetable, animal or mineral waxes or other non-traditional waxy materials including hydrogenated oils and glycerides among several ingredients mentioned in this category which also includes silicone waxes. The possible presence of oily compounds is mentioned and among many compounds esters are cited and within these the only polyol diesters mentioned are neopentyl glycol distearate, and PEG-4 diheptanoate. In the document the first composition of example 1 includes among other ingredients brown iron oxide, a pure oxy black pigment of unknown composition, a hydrogenated vegetable oil without specifying its nature and consistency, beeswax, hydrogenated lanolin and a dimethicone, and the second composition of example 1 includes among other ingredients camauba wax, ceresin, beeswax, a black metal oxide as pigment and poly-glyceryl 2 triisostearate which is a triester.

[0007] Document JP2022160977 (A) of the company VTPL INC discloses a natural waterproof cosmetic composition for the eyes comprising: 5-85% by weight of volatile oil, 0.7-2.1% by weight of thickening agent, 1.2-3.5% by weight of conditioning agent skin conditioning, 0.1-0.5% by weight of bulking agent, 0.5-2.5% by weight of a mixture of surfactants, 3-50% by weight of film former, 5-40% by weight of natural solvent oil, 0.8-1.5% by weight of preservative and 3-15% by weight of colorant. For colorants it is indicated in the text that these can be metal oxides including iron oxides, other mineral pigments and synthetic colorants (FDC colorants and Red 202). The only organic natural colorant mentioned in the list is carmine of animal origin. The thickening agent may be a synthetic wax, ceresin, synthetic fluorophlogopite, candelilla wax, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. The surfactant comprises one or more compounds selected from polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (which is a triester and not a diester), lecithin, isostearic acid and glyceryl caprylate (monoester). In the illustrative examples the compositions include among other ingredients mineral pigments, carmine (only in example 3), polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, trimethylsiloxy-silicate but not vegetable waxes.

[0008] Document CN112957303 (A) by CHEN GUANGWEN discloses a waterproof and anti-perspiration eyebrow pencil containing several plant essences, characterized in that it comprises the following components in parts by weight: 10-25 parts of filler, 20-32 parts of coloring agent, 5-15 parts of Japanese wax, 3-10 parts of polyethylene glycol 3-10 wax, 0.1-1.5 parts of ginger extract, 0.1-1 part of calendula flower extract, 0.1-1 part of honeysuckle flower extract, 1-5 parts of hydrogenated castor oil and 2-5 parts of ethyl acetate / glycerol triglyceride. Preferably, the dye is chosen from the dyes CI77499, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77891 which are metal oxides. Japanese wax contains esters of glycerol and C16-C18 fatty acids. Polyethylene glycol wax is a synthetic wax corresponding to a high PM PEG (note a comparative example with beeswax. Ethyl acetate / glycerol triglyceride corresponds to 1,2,3-Triacetylglycerol (triacetin) which is a triester obtained by transesterification of glycerol with ethyl acetate. Calendula flower extract is not listed as a coloring agent. Note a comparative example with beeswax replacing polyethylene glycol wax.

[0009] Document FR3103108 (Al) of the applicant describes a cosmetic composition for making up the skin or lips or eyelashes or nails comprising one or more coloring extracts of plant origin (a) and one or more solid lamellar compounds insoluble in water and not containing silicon (b). It is indicated in this document that the compositions may contain one or more fatty substances chosen from oils and waxes. Among the waxes, vegetable waxes are mentioned. In oils esters are mentioned among other ingredients as esters of fatty acids other than triglycerides without further details Examples of compositions described are lipsticks containing madder root extract as a plant colorant and carnauba wax, plant oils and shea butter. These compositions do not contain other esters.

[0010] To solve the problems mentioned above, the applicant recommends topical cosmetic compositions comprising one or more plant colorants (a), one or more plant waxes (b) based on optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified esters, and one or more diesters (c) of formula (A) R1 -CO-O-(CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-)nCO-R2. RI and R2 independently designating a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and n designating a number ranging from 2 to 15. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are makeup compositions. Even more preferably, the compositions of the invention are makeup compositions for the eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, in particular in the form of pencils. None of the documents mentioned above disclose such compositions. The compositions of the invention are easy to manufacture and are stable over time. The basic ingredients are present in plants or obtained from raw materials present in plants. Their ecological positioning is therefore favorable. These compositions are easily applied to the target anatomical substrates, without any marked greasy or sticky effect. The substrate coloring effects are intense, homogeneous and long-lasting.

[0011] By topical is meant a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external bodily substrates. This type of composition is to be distinguished from compositions usable orally, that is to say intended to be ingested. For the purposes of the invention, ambient temperature means a temperature ranging from 20 to 30°C. For the purposes of the invention, atmospheric pressure means the conventional value of 1.013 x 105. For the purposes of the invention, water-insoluble ingredient means an ingredient whose solubility in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1% by weight.

[0012] The compositions of the invention contain one or more plant colorants (a). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "plant colorant" means any ingredient comprising at least one organic colorant present naturally in a plant or in a secretion of a plant, said ingredient being capable of providing a color to the treated substrate via the composition containing it. For the purposes of the present invention, the term organic compound means a compound comprising in its chemical structure a covalent bond (single, double or triple) between two carbon atoms in its chemical structure. By plant we mean any organism belonging to the Plant kingdom (or Plantae), one of the six kingdoms of the domain (or empire or super-kingdom) of eukaryotes in the classification of RUGGIERO and Ail (2015), the other five being the Protozoa (Protozoa), the Chromists (Chromista), the Fungi or mycetes (Fungi) and the Animals (Animalia). The plant can be a tree, a shrub, a green plant, a flowering plant, a cactus, a grass. The dye can be applied directly from the plant as it is or from one of its parts (roots, stems or trunks, leaves, flowers or fruits, exudates). Preferably, the plant colorant (a) is used from extracts obtained from a plant as such or from one of its parts. To obtain the plant dyes (a) of the invention, the plants may be treated by grinding, by extraction with water or solvents or with supercritical carbon dioxide, by chemical or enzymatic attack or by a combination of these means. In the case of extraction, there may subsequently be an operation of concentration of active ingredients by filtration or by evaporation of solvent. Finally, in all cases, the addition of adjuvants is possible to facilitate implementation. These plant dyes can be soluble or insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Among the titles of plant dyes (a) we can mention those derived from the following plants: Garance (specimen Rubia Tinctorum) Tomato (species Solanum Lycopersicum) Quebracho (example of species Schinopsis quebracho-colorado) Pernambouc (example of species Caesalpinia Echinata) Chestnut tree (example of species Castanea Sativa) Turmeric (example of species Turmeric) Sorghum (exermple of species Sorghum Bicolor) Cachou (species Acacia Catechu) Rocouyer (example of species Bixa Orellana) Sappan (example of species Caesalpinia Sappan) Genipa (example of species Genipa Americana) Indigotier (species Indigofera Tinctoria) Red cabbage (example of species Brassica Oleracea) Reseda (example of the species Reseda Luteola) Sumac (example of species Rhus Semialata) Preferably, the plant dyes(a) are chosen from those derived from madder, tomato, sorghum, chestnut and sumac. The concentration of plant dyes (a) in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.001% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 50%, better still from 0.2 to 40%, even better still from 1 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may comprise dyes different from dyes (a). Preferably, the dyes other than dyes (a) are chosen from colored mineral pigments. The additional mineral pigments are preferably chosen from chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, metallic particles (gold, silver), carbon black, iron oxides and even more preferably from yellow, red or black iron oxides.

[0013] The compositions of the invention comprise one or more vegetable waxes (b) based on optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified esters. In organic chemistry, transesterification is the process of exchanging the organic group R' of an ester RCOO-R' of an ester with the organic group R" from an alcohol R"-OH. This alcohol can be a monohydric alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol. These reactions are often catalyzed by the addition of an acid or base catalyst. The chemical modifications of hydrogenation and / or transesterifications can be total or partial. Wax means a compound that is solid or semi-solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and therefore in a form that does not flow under its own weight. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ester-based vegetable wax” means a wax such that all the esters constitute the largest weight portion of said wax. Preferably the melting point of the waxes of the invention is greater than or equal to 30°C, better still greater than 35°C, even better still greater than 40°C. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the one offered by METTLER under the reference DSC 30. Vegetable wax (b) can be obtained directly from plants by fractionation or can possibly be obtained by the addition of a chemical treatment but only hydrogenation and / or transesterification. In a first variant of the invention, the majority esters of the vegetable wax (b) are mono and / or diesters of mono and / or dialcohols. These esters are generally called cerides. The corresponding vegetable waxes are vegetable waxes (bl) With the exception of a few specific cases, vegetable waxes (vw) are produced and located on the surface of the aerial parts of plants, at the level of their cuticle. Vegetable cuticular waxes are essentially made up of aliphatic compounds that can be divided schematically into two groups. In the first, we find the most common compounds of the alkane, ester, acid, primary alcohol and aldehyde type. The second group, on the other hand, concerns rarer compounds such as ketones, secondary alcohols or [3-diketones. Other minor, non-aliphatic elements are also encountered. These are cyclic or polycyclic compounds grouped under the term triterpenoids and present in the form of alcohol (sterols, a-amyrin, [3-amyrin, lupeol, erythrodiol, etc.) or acids (ursolic, olenolic, etc.). For vegetable waxes (bl) the esterification of fatty acids takes place with a mono or dihydroxy fatty alcohol whereas for natural vegetable oils it is with glycerol. The fatty acids of the esters of these waxes are generally saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing 16 to 28 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of these same esters can be mono or di hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and generally contain 20 to 34 carbon atoms. In a second variant of the invention, the majority esters of the vegetable wax (b) are triesters of glycerol. These esters are generally called triglycerides. The corresponding vegetable waxes are vegetable waxes (b2). These waxes (b2) can be natural. These waxes (b2) are most often obtained by hydrogenation and / or transesterification of vegetable oils. The vegetable waxes (b) are preferably chosen from camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork wax, sugar cane wax, mimosa wax, orange wax, laurel wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, soybean wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, olive wax, avocado wax, peach wax, rapeseed wax, coconut wax, palm wax. Hydrogenation and / or transesterification are the only chemical transformations to obtain the ingredients (b) of the invention. Obtaining vegetable waxes (b) can, on the other hand, involve one or more physical processes such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. Preferably, the vegetable wax(es) (b) of the invention are chosen from vegetable waxes (bl), that is to say from vegetable waxes based on mono and / or diesters, mono and / or dialcohols. Preferably, the vegetable wax(es) (b) of the invention are chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, alfa wax. Even more preferably, the vegetable wax(es) (b) of the invention are chosen from carnauba wax and candelilla wax. The compositions of the invention comprise vegetable waxes (b) in a proportion preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, better still from 10% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The compositions of the invention comprise one or more diesters (c) of formula (A) Rl-CO-O-(CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-)nCO-R2. RI and R2 independently designating a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and n designating a number ranging from 2 to 15. In this formula (A), n preferably denotes a number ranging from 2 to 4. Even more preferably n designates the number 3. The radicals RI and R2 are not substituted by groups other than alkyl or alkenyl groups. Preferably at least one of the radicals RI or R2 is branched. The radicals RI and R2 are not substituted by radicals other than alkyl or alkenyl radicals. Preferably, R1 and R2 each denote an alkyl radical. Preferably, the radicals RI and R2 independently denote a radical comprising from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 15 to 22 carbon atoms. Diesters of formula (A) are polyglycerol diesters accessible by synthesis from glycerol and fatty acids, which are renewable raw materials that can be obtained from plants. They are therefore ingredients with a low ecological impact. Preferably the diesters (c) of formula (A) are chosen from Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Poly-glyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Poly- glyceryl-4 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Dicaprylate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, le Po-lyglyceryl-5 Dioleate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Düsostearate,le Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dicocoate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Didecanoate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dii-sostearate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dimyristate, le Poly-glyceryl-10 Dioleate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-15 Diisostearate.

[0015] Plus préférentiellement les diesters de formule (A) sont choisis parmi le Poly-glyceryl-2 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, le Poly-glyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dicocoate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Didecanoate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dimyristate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, le Poly-glyceryl-10 Distearate. Encore plus préférentiellement les diesters (c) de formule (A) sont choisis parmi le Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate. Most preferably the diester (c) of formula (A) is Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate. The compositions of the invention comprise diesters (c) of formula (A) in a proportion preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more oils different from the diesters (c) of formula (A). An oil is a liquid compound that is insoluble in water. Additional oils can be hydrocarbon, mineral or synthetic. The additional non-polar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from paraffin oil, isoparaffins (isododecane, isodecanes), linear alkanes (n-dodecane), squalane, isoeicosane, polybutylenes or polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not. The polar additional oils are preferably hydrocarbon-based. They can be chosen from branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. The additional oils are preferably chosen from triglycerides and esters of fatty acids other than triglycerides. In a first preferred variant, the oils are chosen from mono or diesters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols such as octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate. In a second preferred variant, the oils are chosen from vegetable oils which are optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified. Even more preferably, additional vegetable oils are chosen from non-chemically modified vegetable oils. For the purposes of the invention, chemically unmodified means an ingredient which did not require the deliberate action of one or more chemical additives other than air, voluntarily modifying the chemical structure of the compound(s) constituting the starting ingredient, to be obtained. In particular, for its production, vegetable oil must not have undergone any hydrogenation, oxyalkylenation or transesterification reaction. On the other hand, to obtain the oil, the plant can undergo different types of physical treatments. Without being limiting, we can cite the following operations: crushing, sieving, pressing, decantation, solvation, filtration, evaporation, heating, cooling. Vegetable oils are composed primarily of triglycerides. Triglycerides are triesters of glycerol and saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. Among the vegetable oils that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may in particular be made of avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra oil, coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, castor oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, argan oil. Even more preferably, the oil(s) are chosen from castor oil, sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, coconut oil, argan oil. The compositions of the invention may contain oils in a proportion preferably ranging from 0.01% to 35% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 1% to 25% by weight, most preferably from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more water-insoluble mineral powders. As a reminder, insoluble in water means an ingredient whose solubility in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1% by weight. For the purposes of the present invention, mineral powder means a powdery ingredient not comprising a covalent bond (single, double or triple) between two carbon atoms in its chemical structure. The powders of the invention are preferably chosen from silicas and silicates. Silica exists in the free state in different crystalline or amorphous forms. Free silica is very abundant in nature, in the form of quartz, chalcedony, opal and diatomaceous earth. Silica can also be found in unequal proportions in certain plants, mainly in algae, nettle, horsetail, blackcurrant, and bamboo. A silicate is a salt that combines silicon dioxide SiO2 with other metal oxides. Minerals with a silicate composition are also referred to as silicates and constitute an extremely important mineral family. Silicates are divided into six families: -NesoSilicates -Sorosilicates -Cyclosilicates -Inosilicates -Phyllosilicates -Tectosilicates. In a variant of the invention, the silicates are chosen from aluminosilicates. Aluminosilicates are minerals from the silicate group in which certain silicon atoms Si are replaced by aluminum atoms Al. These substitutions are observed in particular in the phyllosilicate and tectosilicate families. In another variant of the invention, the silicates are different from the aluminosilicates. In this variant the silicates can be -aluminum silicates, in which aluminum atoms Al do not replace silicon atoms, do not belong to the aluminosilicate family. Examples: kaolinite, pyrophyllite. -silicates which do not contain aluminum atoms in their chemical structures. By chemical structure of silicate we mean the structure of the mineral constituting the silicate and not that of any impurities. In another variant of the invention, the powders are chosen from silicates which do not contain aluminum atoms in their chemical structures. Most preferably the insoluble mineral powder is silica. In an interesting variant of the invention, the compositions of the invention do not contain silicates. The concentration of water-insoluble mineral powders contained in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.01% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 20%, better still from 1 to 15%, even better still from 3 to 10% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The compositions of the invention may contain one or more wax-type ingredients different from waxes (b). Additional waxes can be of natural mineral, animal, or synthetic origin. They can be polar or non-polar. Examples of non-polar waxes include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. The polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. The ester waxes are preferably chosen from esters of fatty acid(s) and / or fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The alcohol waxes are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol. In the compositions of the invention, the content of waxes other than waxes (b) can vary from 0.1 to 40% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 30% by weight, even better still from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain waxes other than waxes (b).

[0019] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers, UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, vitamins, pro-vitamins, pre- or probiotics, amino acids, perfumes, peptizing agents, preservatives, antioxidants, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular to regulate the pH or to salify the ingredients), anti-wrinkle agents, moisturizing agents. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain organic compounds comprising one or more silicon atoms in their structure. By organic compound comprising one or more silicon atoms in its structure is meant in particular, within the meaning of the invention, a compound having in its chemical structure at least one R-Si-O- chain, R being a hydrocarbon radical optionally carrying one or more heteroatoms. These organic silicon compounds are in particular silicone compounds and silanes, the latter being reactive compounds leading to the formation of silicone compounds.

[0020] The compositions of the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are anhydrous. For the purposes of the present invention, anhydrous means a composition whose water content at room temperature (20 to 30°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 105 Pa) is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention in particular do not include any water added voluntarily apart from the traces of water possibly present in certain ingredients. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Even more preferably, the compositions of the invention are in the form of cylinders, most often beveled at at least one of their ends. These cylinders are either coated or not in a solid matrix preferably made of wood-based materials (cedar wood for example, cellulose from recycled paper fibers) or plastic materials. These cylinders with or without coating then constitute makeup pencils.

[0021] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are topical compositions. By topical, we mean a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external body substrates. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are used for makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows. The compositions of the invention can preferably be used for makeup of the eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, better still for makeup of the eyelids.

[0022] The invention also covers a method for making up the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, preferably the eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, and even more preferably the eyelids, consisting of applying to the substrate concerned a cosmetic composition as described above with or without subsequent rinsing. For the purposes of the present invention, makeup means the addition of color, other than a white color, to the treated anatomical substrate.

[0023] [Example]

[0024] The example below illustrates the invention without, however, limiting its scope. Example 1 The composition described in table 1 below is that of a pencil allowing the coloring of the eyelids and / or eyelashes and eyebrows in a purplish red color. This composition is easy to make and is stable over time. The basic ingredients are present in plants or obtained from raw materials present in plants. Their ecological positioning is so favorable. The composition is easily applied to keratin materials and in particular the skin without any marked greasy or sticky effect during and after application. The resulting color is intense, even and long-lasting.

[0025] [Tables 1] Ingredient Quantity in g per 100 g of composition Madder root extract (ingredient (a)) 31 Copernicia cerifera (camauba) wax (ingredient (bl)) 9 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (ingredient (c)) 1.8 Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 13.4 C10-18 triglycerides (ingredient b2) 11.7 Hydrogenated vegetable oil (ingredient b2) 7.7 Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate 18.8 Silica 5 Glyceryl unde-cylenate 0.5 Antioxidant 0.5 Calcium carbonate 0.03 Glyceryl Unde-cylenate 0.12 Potassium Aluminum 0.03

Claims

Claims

1. Topical cosmetic composition comprising one or more plant colorants (a), one or more plant waxes (b) based on optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified esters, and one or more diesters (c) of formula (A) R1-CO-O-(CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-)nCO-R2. RI and R2 independently denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and n denoting a number ranging from 2 to 15.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it is a makeup composition, preferably a makeup composition for the eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2 in which the plant colorant(s) (a) are used from extracts obtained from a plant as such or from one of its parts.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the plant colorants (a) are derived from the following plants: madder, tomato, quebracho, pernambuco, chestnut, turmeric, sorghum, catechu, annatto, sappan, genipa, indigo, red cabbage, mignonette, sumac and preferably those derived from madder, tomato, sorghum, chestnut and sumac.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the concentration of plant dyes (a) in the compositions of the invention varies from 0.001% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 50%, better still from 0.2 to 40%, even better still from 1 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the wax(es) (b) are chosen from camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork wax, sugar cane wax, mimosa wax, orange wax, laurel wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, soy wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, avocado wax, peach wax, rapeseed wax, coconut wax, palm wax, more preferably from camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, alfa wax, even more preferably from camauba wax and candelilla wax.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the majority esters of the vegetable wax (b) are mono and or diesters of mono or dialcohols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the majority esters of the vegetable wax (b) are triesters of glycerol.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the vegetable wax(es) (b) are present in a proportion preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, better still from 10% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which in formula (A) RI and R2 denote one of the other an alkyl radical and or at least one of the radicals RI or R2 is branched.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the diesters (c) are chosen from Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, the diester of formula (A) being most preferably Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the diesters (c) of formula (A) are present in a proportion preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more oils other than the diesters (c) of formula (A), preferably chosen from triglycerides and fatty acid esters other than triglycerides and or one or more water-insoluble mineral powders, preferably chosen from silicas and silicates, better still from silicas.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims not containing organic compounds comprising in their structure one or more silicon atoms.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure and is preferably in the form of a cylinder. coated or not in a solid matrix preferably made of wood or plastic materials.

17. Composition according to the preceding claim with or without coating constituting a makeup pencil.

18. Method for making up the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, preferably the eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, and even more preferably the eyelids, consisting of applying to the substrate concerned a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims with or without subsequent rinsing.