ANHYDROUS CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, a) at least one C-glycoside; b) at least one hydrophilic moisturizer chosen from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside; c) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters and fatty acid polyglyceryl esters; and d) at least one wax. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of the composition according to the present invention. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: ANHYDROUS CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and making up keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Lipsticks have been used for many years to accentuate the positive aspects of the wearer's lips. Lipsticks are capable of altering the apparent facial features of the wearer. In addition to altering the shape of the lips, lipsticks can be manufactured in a large number of colors and shades to promote a desired effect or express the mood of the wearer.

[0003] To date, certain prior art documents relating to solid cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care have been published.

[0004] For example, WO 2013 / 191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising: • from 5 to 30% by weight of a non-volatile apolar oil, or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition, • from 43 to 90% by weight of the total content of a non-volatile silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in which at least one of said non-volatile silicone oils is a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, and • from 3 to 30% by weight of a wax, or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0005] Some lipsticks have the disadvantage of not sufficiently moisturizing or hydrating. Dry fine lines are frequently observed with dry lips. During the day, the feeling of dry and tight lips leads to an unpleasant user experience, especially with lipsticks with a matte finish. In order to improve this disadvantage, many efforts have been made.

[0006] One solution is to incorporate humectants into certain lipsticks.

[0007] Some lipsticks may have a stability problem (e.g. (e.g., there is oil exudation or macroscopic crystallization on the surface of lipsticks) after a fluctuation in temperature and / or humidity, especially when certain humectants are added to lipsticks, which is considered a quality issue by consumers.

[0008] Therefore, there is a need to develop a moisturizing lipstick, which has good stability (i.e., there is no oil exudation or macroscopic crystallization on the surface of the lipsticks). Summary of the invention

[0009] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a moisturizing lipstick, which has good stability (i.e. there is no oil exudation or macroscopic crystallization on the surface of the lipsticks).

[0010] Another object of the present invention is to propose a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, which will provide a moisturizing effect.

[0011] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one C-glycoside; b. at least one hydrophilic moisturizer selected from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside; c. at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof; and d. at least one wax.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.

[0013] According to a third aspect, the present invention proposes the use of an anhydrous composition comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof, to improve the penetration of a C-glycoside, in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, into keratinous materials, in particular the lips.

[0014] The inventors have discovered that with the combination of at least one C-glycoside, at least one hydrophilic moisturizer selected from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside, at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof, and at least one wax, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention can deliver a moisturizing effect and does not present a problem of stability for at least 2 months at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C or 45°C.

[0015] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0017] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0018] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0019] Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0020] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, these small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain them in residual amounts but are not deliberately provided.

[0022] As used herein, the term "keratinous material" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is meant all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the lips.

[0023] Advantageously, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is solid.

[0024] The term "solid" as used herein means that the hardness of the composition at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm 1 when measured according to the protocol described below.

[0025] The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0026] Hardness can be measured at 20°C by the "cheese wire" method, which consists of transversely cutting a rod of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire of 250 μm diameter, moving the wire relative to the rod at a speed of 100 mm / minute.

[0027] The hardness of the samples of compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm A, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

[0028] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values ​​read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0029] Hardness is converted to Nm 1 by the equation below:

[0030] (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L

[0031] For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

[0032] According to this measuring method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 40 Nm1. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in a standard packaging which does not require any composition support means.

[0033] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has in particular a hardness at 20°C of less than 200 Nm', and preferably of less than 160 Nm'.

[0034] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one C-glycoside; b. at least one hydrophilic moisturizer selected from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside; c. at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof; and d. at least one wax. C-glycoside

[0035] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.

[0036] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from the compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) S—Z ,T, v?

[0037] in which: • R represents a saturated C1 to C10 alkyl radical, in particular C1 to C4 which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, • S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and • X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0038] the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3,

[0039] as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their geometric isomers; and one of their mixtures.

[0040] The C-glycosides used for implementing the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical of C1 to C6, in particular C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2 and more preferably, a methyl radical.

[0041] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made in particular of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl groups.

[0042] According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R moreover retaining all the definitions above.

[0043] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be chosen from the following elements: D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates the following elements: D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

[0044] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a di- saccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which may advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0045] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

[0046] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used for which: • R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C2, in particular a methyl radical; • S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; • X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2) and, preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0047] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Particular examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0048] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; in particular, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol may be mentioned. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0049] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0050] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0051] A C-glycoside which is suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthetic method described in WO 02 / 051828.

[0052] In particular, by way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned:

[0053] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0054] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0055] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0056] - C-a- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0057] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0058] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0059] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0060] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0061] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0062] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0063] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0064] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0065] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0066] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0067] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0068] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0069] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0070] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0071] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0072] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0073] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0074] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0075] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0076] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

[0077] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

[0078] According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C- [3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) supplied as a solution containing 70% by weight of active ingredient in water and propylene glycol.

[0079] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyhydric alcohols

[0080] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic moisturizer chosen from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside.

[0081] As used herein, the term "polyhydric alcohol" refers to an alcohol comprising more than one hydroxyl. Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, panthenol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferably, the hydrophilic moisturizer is glycerin.

[0083] Advantageously, the hydrophilic moisturizer is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Fatty acid glyceryl monoesters and fatty acid polyglyceryl esters

[0085] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least a non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof.

[0086] Glyceryl monoesters of fatty acids suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, including 16-22 carbon atoms.

[0087] Preferably, the fatty acid glyceryl monoester is chosen from glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate), glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and mixtures thereof.

[0088] More preferably, the fatty acid glyceryl monoester used in the composition of the present invention is glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate).

[0089] Fatty acid polyglyceryl esters suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0090] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is chosen from esters of a or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0091] More preferably, the fatty acid polyglycerol ester is selected from polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-4 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 decalinoleate, poly-glyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-3 dicocoate, polyglyceryl-10 didecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dioleate, diisostearate poly-glyceryl-10, polyglyceryl-4 dioleate, polyglycerin-2 dioleate, poly-lyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, poly-glyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl-2 distearate,polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 hep-tastearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexaoleate, poly-glyceryl-10 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isopalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, poly-glyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / sebacate, Polyglyceryl-4 laurate / succinate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-8 oleate,polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 pentalaurate, polyglyceryl-10 pentalinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-6 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-10 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-2 tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, polyglyceryl-4 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 tristearate,and their mixtures. ,

[0092] Most preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used in the composition of the present invention is selected from polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Even more preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used in the anhydrous composition of the present invention is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate. Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate can promote the penetration of C-glycoside into the anhydrous composition, more preferably, promote the penetration of C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol).

[0094] In certain preferred embodiments, the nonionic surfactant used is selected from glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 ...3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetastearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0095] In some more preferred embodiments, the non-ionic surfactant used is selected from glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Even more preferably, the non-ionic surfactant used in the anhydrous composition of the present invention is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

[0097] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0098] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax.

[0099] The term "wax" designates a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can go up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

[0100] Preferably, the wax is selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, a C20-40 alkyl stearate and combinations thereof.

[0101] Preferably, the polyethylene wax may have a weight average molecular weight of 300 to 5000, preferably 400 to 3000.

[0102] Advantageously, the wax is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Advantageously, the polyethylene wax is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oil(s)

[0104] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil.

[0105] Herein, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0106] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as an ester oil or a fatty alcohol; or a mixture thereof.

[0107] The oil can be vegetable oils or synthetic oils.

[0108] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, canola oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Examples of synthetic oils include ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0110] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0111] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0112] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.

[0113] The following elements may in particular be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sar-cosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0114] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isonanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), tetraisosterate pentaerythrityl, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Examples of ester oils also include triglycerides, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (or caprylic / capric triglyceride), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0118] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0120] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms; and ii. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0121] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0122] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

[0123] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiaryl-siloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0124] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower alkanes of C6-Ci6. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g. isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.

[0125] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0126] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil selected from silicone oils, preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane and dimethylpolysiloxane, triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0127] If present, advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, triglycerides and mixtures thereof in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SILICONE ELASTOMER

[0129] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a silicone elastomer.

[0130] It can be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers.

[0131] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a polyoxyalkylenated containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

[0132] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (Al) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (Cl) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in US patents 5,236,986 and US 5,412,004.

[0133] In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) terminated with dimethylvinylsiloxy and methylhydropolysiloxane terminated with trimethylsiloxy, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0134] Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenated compounds containing at least two vinyl groups, reacting with the Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.

[0135] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the present disclosure is preferably blended with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer may take the form of non-spherical particles.

[0136] The polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US 5,236,986, US 5,412,004, US 5,837,793, and US 5,811,487.

[0137] As silicone elastomers, those with the following INCI names can be used:

[0138] Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 -Cro s spoly mer,

[0139] PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,

[0140] PEG-10 / Laury 1 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0141] PEG-12 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0142] PEG-10 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0143] PEG-10 Dimethicone / Viny 1 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0144] PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer,

[0145] Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer;

[0146] and mixtures thereof.

[0147] If present, advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises an optionally polyoxyalkylenated silicone crosslinked polymer selected from Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 crosslinked polymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone crosslinked polymer; and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Colorant(s)

[0149] The compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one colorant.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “colorant” designates a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0151] The dye considered in the context of the present invention may be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic dyes, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] If present, advantageously, the colorant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0153] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise other ingredients generally used in the field considered.

[0154] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise other ingredients selected from polymers for improving wear, fillers, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, collagen protective agents and mixtures thereof.

[0155] It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the other ingredients present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the intended addition.

[0156] According to one embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one C-glycoside; b. from 2% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one selected hydrophilic moisturizer among the polyhydric alcohols, which is different from at least one C-glycoside; c. from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof; and d. from 1% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one wax.

[0157] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 2% by weight to 5% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; b. from 4% by weight to 10% by weight of glycerin; c. from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and a mixture thereof; and d. from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of polyethylene wax. Dosage form

[0158] The anhydrous composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care and / or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a lipstick and the like.

[0159] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

[0160] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for / making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.

[0161] The keratinous material is the skin, especially the lips.

[0162] According to a third aspect, the present invention proposes the use of an anhydrous composition comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof, to improve the penetration of a C-glycoside, in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, into keratinous materials, in particular the lips. Examples

[0163] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0164] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0165] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate ISOLAN® GPS EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT Glycerin BP GLYCERINE ORGANIC CHEMICAL COR PORATION Polyethylene PERFORMALENE™ 500-L POLYETHYLENE NUCERA SOLUTIONS C20-40 alkyl stearate KESTER WAX K 82 H KOSTER KEUNEN Paraffin (and) microcrystalline wax (and) synthetic wax PARACERA® 30540 PARAMELT Dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer EL-7040 HYDRO ELASTOMER BLEND DOW

[0166] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4

[0167] Lipsticks according to the present invention (El.) 1-3 and comparative lipsticks (EC) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of each material, unless otherwise indicated):

[0168] [Tables2] Components ELI EL 2 EL3 EC.l EC. 2 CE. 3 EC.4 % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / polyglyceryl-4 sebacate 4 4 ​​4 - - 4 4 Glycerin 8 8 8 8 8 - - Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 3.15 3.15 3.15 3.15 - - 3.15 Polyethylene 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 C20-40 alkyl stearate 7.5 - 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 Paraffin (and) microcrystalline wax (and) synthetic wax - 7.5 - - - - - Dimethicone 8.54 8.54 - 19.06 19.06 19.06 19.06 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3.66 3.66 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 Crosspolymer - - 5 5 5 5 5 Caprylyl Methicone 16.04 16.04 - - - - - PEG-12 Di-methicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer 3.76 3.76 - - - - - Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

[0169] The compositions of examples of the invention 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0170] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not comprise a non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters and fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0171] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not comprise C-glycoside and non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids.

[0172] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not comprise C-glycoside and hydrophilic moisturizer selected from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside.

[0173] The composition of Comparative Example 4 does not comprise a hydrophilic moisturizer chosen from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside.

[0174] Preparation procedure:

[0175] The detailed procedure for preparing the above lipsticks is as follows: 1. weighing of caprylic / capric triglyceride, polyethylene, C20-40 alkyl stearate (if present), paraffin (and) microcrystalline wax (and) synthetic wax (if present), polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (if present), and dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer were weighed into a main container and heating the container to about 95°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture was obtained; 2. addition of PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosslinked polymer (if present), dimethicone (and) dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer (if present) at 95°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture has been obtained; 3. addition of a glycerin / hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol premix (if present) into the main container and homogenization of the mass with stirring until a homogeneous mixture has been obtained; 4. pouring the homogeneous mixture obtained in step 3) into a lipstick mold preheated to 42+2°C, leaving the homogeneous mixture in the mold at less than 25°C until solidification; then further solidification at less than -20°C until the bulk temperature has reached 4+2°C; and 5. Removing the lipsticks from their mold.

[0176] Lipstick Rating: Hardness

[0177] The hardness of the lipsticks prepared above was measured at 20°C via the “cheese wire” method, which is between 40 Nm 1 and 160 Nm1. Stability

[0178] The stability of the lipsticks obtained above was evaluated as follows.

[0179] First, the lipsticks were put in the oven at a constant temperature of 20°C. After 24 hours, the lipsticks were placed in 5 test ovens:

[0180] a HUM oven: set at 37°C and 80% RH (relative humidity); and

[0181] 4 ovens: set respectively at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C without control humidity below 45-55% RH.

[0182] Generally, 2 samples of each lipstick (one upright and one upside down) were placed in each oven at the same time, except in the HUM oven where one sample is upright without a cap and one sample is upright with a cap). At each checkpoint (the first day, one month later, two months later), lipsticks were taken out, checked for appearance, recorded data, and replaced.

[0183] If there is no macroscopic crystallization (appearance of crystals, grains, clumps, impurities or surface discoloration) and no oil exudation (a number of droplets) on the surface of all samples in the 5 ovens under test for the same lipstick, then the stability of the lipstick will be evaluated as “Pass”.

[0184] In case of macroscopic crystallization (appearance of crystals, grains, clumps, impurities or surface discoloration) and / or oil exudation (a number of droplets) on the surface of any sample in the 5 ovens under test for the same lipstick, the stability of the lipstick will be evaluated as “Fail”.

[0185] The stability results of the lipsticks were summarized in Table 3.

[0186] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 EI.3 EC.l EC. 2 EC. 3 EC.4 Stability Success Success Success Failure Failure Success Success Hydration

[0187] Hydration was tested as follows.

[0188] 30 women aged 22 to 65 were invited as models.

[0189] Hydration on the lips was assessed on each model, using a SELM-0034-COMB-02 corneometer, by wiping the corneometer probe between each measurement. These measurements were taken at T0 (just before application of the test lipstick), and after 15 minutes (T15min). A single standardized application of the sample was performed by a skin expert on the lips of each model.

[0190] The rounded averages of the values ​​read on the corneometer are given in Table 4.

[0191] [Tables4] T0 T15min Difference (T15-T0) EI.3 38 53 15 EC.l Stability test failed, hydration test could not be performed EC.2 Stability test failed, hydration test could not be performed EC.3 38 43 5 EC.4 36 46 10

[0192] It can be seen that compared to the baseline (T0), the hydration of the lips was significantly improved after the application of the lipsticks of the inventive examples 3 after 15 minutes.

[0193] In summary, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable for at least 2 months. In addition, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention can provide a good moisturizing effect. Penetration of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol

[0194] The penetration of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol into the composition of inventive example 1 was carried out, using an ex vivo protocol as follows: • Full thickness human skin from abdominal plastic surgery; • 5 mg / cm2 for each composition (application area: 2 cm2); • 16 hours (real-life application time) of application at 32°C; • Wash after the application period; • 1-2 applications per cell (10 cells per treatment); • Receiving liquid (0.9% NaCl in water); • Stripping was carried out with Dsquame® discs; • LC-MS / MS quantification in washing, stratum corneum (SC), skin (epidermis + dermis) and receptor fluid (RF).

[0195] The penetration results of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol are listed in Table 5.

[0196] [Tables5] In epidermis + dermis + receptor fluid (qg / cm2, median) In epidermis (qM, median) ELI 4.22 1882

[0197] It can be seen that the at least one C-glycoside in the composition of the present invention can penetrate strongly into the skin.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising: a) at least one C-glycoside; b) at least one hydrophilic moisturizer chosen from polyhydric alcohols, which is different from the at least one C-glycoside; c) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof; and d) at least one wax.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) S—' (D in which: - R represents a saturated C1-C10, in particular C1-C4 alkyl radical which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-,-CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a -CH(OH)- radical, the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or [3, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, their optical isomers and their mixtures.,

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - Ca- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerin, panthenol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, including 8 to 22, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a poly-glyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, penta- polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, poly-glyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, poly-glyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, poly-glyceryl-4 isostearate, poly-glyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, poly-glyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, poly-glyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, poly-glyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof;preferentially chosen from polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dii-sostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate.;

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the wax is selected from polyethylene, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, a C20-40 alkyl stearate and combinations thereof.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising an optionally polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer selected from Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 crosslinked polymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous materials, preferably to the lips.

10. Use of an anhydrous composition comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof, to improve the penetration of a C-glycoside, in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, in keratinous materials, particularly the lips.