PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINOUS FIBERS

Abstract

PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention mainly relates to a process for reshaping, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one silicone; and (b) at least one vegetable oil, (ii) applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof;and (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC, and more preferably more than 150 ºC, wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i). Figure for abstract: none;

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD FOR TREATING KERATINOUS FIBERS Technical field

[0001] The present invention mainly relates to a method of treating, preferably reshaping, and more preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Reshaping keratinous fibers such as hair by heating the keratinous fibers with an iron is common, making unruly keratinous fibers manageable and reducing the volume and improving the appearance of the keratinous fibers. Although such a reshaping method using a heating iron is convenient for quick styling, it is not easy to achieve a sufficient reshaping effect.

[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent reshaping methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratinous fibers with an improved reshaping effect, but they have several disadvantages such as a long processing time, damage to the keratinous fibers and bad odor.

[0004] So far, some methods for reshaping keratinous fibers without using reducing agent and oxidizing agent have been reported.

[0005] For example, JP-A-2020-066575 discloses a method of treating hair comprising:

[0006] an acid treatment consisting of applying to the hair a first acid hair composition containing an acid and / or a salt thereof;

[0007] a washing treatment consisting of washing the hair;

[0008] a silicone treatment consisting of applying a second com to the hair capillary position which is a liquid containing silicone;

[0009] a drying treatment consisting of drying the hair; and

[0010] a heat treatment consisting of placing the hair in contact with a heating element having a predefined temperature of at least 100°C.

[0011] Furthermore, US-A-2012-312317 discloses a method for semi-permanent hair straightening, comprising: a. the application of a solution comprising an alpha-keto acid serving as a buffering agent; b. keeping the solution in contact with the hair for 15 to 120 minutes; c. drying the hair, and d. straightening hair with a hair straightener at a temperature of approximately 200 + / - 50 °C.

[0012] Furthermore, JP-A-2019-123701 discloses a method of treating hair comprising: 1. a step of applying a hair treatment agent to the hair, containing (a) 13-30% by mass levulinic acid and (b) 1-2% by mass glyoxylic acid, the total content of levulinic acid and glyoxylic acid being 15% by mass or more and the pH being 1.5-3.0; 2. a step of leaving the hair; 3. a step of washing the hair with water; and 4. a step of straightening the hair with a hair straightener or hair straightener, a brush and the like at a certain temperature simultaneously during or after drying the hair. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0013] It remains necessary to improve the method of reshaping keratinous fibers.

[0014] An object of the present invention is to provide an improved method for reshaping keratinous fibers such as hair, which can provide the keratinous fibers with improved reshaping effects while providing the keratinous fibers with improved discipline of the keratinous fibers, leading to ease of combing the keratinous fibers and ease of applying a hair iron to the keratinous fibers.

[0015] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a method of reshaping, preferably straightening keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: i. application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises:

[0016] (a) at least one silicone; and

[0017] (b) at least one vegetable oil, i. application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, in which composition B comprises:

[0018] (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0019] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and i. optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C,

[0020] wherein the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0021] The silicone (a) may be selected from amino-modified silicones.

[0022] The quantity of the silicone(s) (a) in composition A may be from 1% to 60% in weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0023] The vegetable oil may comprise at least one fatty acid.

[0024] The fatty acid may be selected from monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids. unsaturated.

[0025] The fatty acid may be selected from saturated fatty acids comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms.

[0026] The fatty acid or acids may be present in the vegetable oil or oils (b) in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, and more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil or oils (b).

[0027] The amount of the vegetable oil or oils (b) in composition A may be from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0028] The total amount of the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) in composition A may be from 3% to 99% by weight, preferably from 5% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0029] The amount of compound(s) (c) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0030] Compound (d) may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

[0031] The amount of compound(s) (d) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0032] The pH of composition B may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

[0033] The method according to the present invention may not include the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.

[0034] The method according to the present invention may not include the application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.

[0035] The present invention may relate to a kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0036] a composition A comprising: a. at least one silicone; and b. at least one vegetable oil, and

[0037] a composition B comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, in which

[0039] composition A comprises: a. at least one silicone; and b. at least one vegetable oil, and

[0040] composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0041] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, which can provide keratinous fibers with improved reshaping effects with the application of two different compositions, a composition A and a composition B, wherein composition A comprises at least one silicone and at least one vegetable oil, and composition B comprises at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one ketonic acid or a salt thereof.

[0042] Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a method for reshaping, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: i. application of a composition A to the keratinous fibers, in which the Composition A includes:

[0043] (a) at least one silicone; and

[0044] (b) at least one vegetable oil, i. application of a composition B to keratinous fibers, in which composition B comprises:

[0045] (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0046] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and i. optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C,

[0047] wherein the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0048] The present invention can improve a method of reshaping keratinous fibers such as hair, with the application of two different compositions, composition A and composition B, providing improved reshaping effects.

[0049] The reshaping of keratinous fibers, such as hair, here includes the straightening or curling of the keratinous fibers.

[0050] Furthermore, the method according to the present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved discipline of the keratinous fibers, leading to ease of combing the keratinous fibers and ease of applying a hair iron to the keratinous fibers.

[0051] The present invention can cause less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional straightening methods, because the present invention does not need to use reducing / oxidizing agents. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage.

[0052] Furthermore, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can have good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0053] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[0054] [Process]

[0055] The present invention relates to a method of fitness, preferably of smoothing of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0056] (i) application of a composition A to the keratinous fibers, in which the com position A includes:

[0057] (a) at least one silicone; and

[0058] (b) at least one vegetable oil,

[0059] (ii) application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition B comprises:

[0060] (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0061] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and

[0062] (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C,

[0063] wherein the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

[0064] The method according to the present invention is intended for the reshaping of keratinous fibers, such as hair, preferably for reshaping over a long period, and more preferably for reshaping even after shampooing. In this sense, the method according to the present invention may be a semi-permanent reshaping method. {Step (i)}

[0065] Step (i) consists of applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers. Composition A will be described in detail later.

[0066] The application of composition A can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0067] The bath ratio of composition A applied to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0068] The amount of composition A applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.

[0069] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are cleaned before step (i). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers and then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wet just before step (i). The cleaning step is preferably performed once before the method of the present invention is carried out.

[0070] It may be possible, after application of the composition, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition A to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

[0071] Composition A may or may not be rinsed from the keratinous fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A from the keratinous fibers after step (i). {Step (ii)}

[0072] Step (ii) consists of applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers. Composition B will be described in detail later.

[0073] The application of composition B can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.

[0074] The bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2, respectively. The term "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0075] The amount of composition B applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of the keratinous fibers.

[0076] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are cleaned before step (ii). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers and then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wet just before step (ii).

[0077] It may be possible, after the application of composition B, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition A to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

[0078] Composition B may or may not be rinsed from the keratinous fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B from the keratinous fibers after step (ii).

[0079] In a preferred embodiment, there is no cleaning step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0080] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises step (i) and then step (ii) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii).

[0081] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises step (ii) and then step (i) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i).

[0082] In another preferred embodiment, the method comprises step (i) then step (ii) then step (i) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii), and that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i). {Step (iii)}

[0083] Step (iii) is an optional step. Step (iii) consists of heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C. Step (iii) can be carried out once both steps (i) and (ii) are completed.

[0084] In one embodiment, the keratinous fibers are dried just before step (iii). The drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

[0085] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are heated to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C, with a heating element, preferably a heating iron or a heating curler. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C, and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0086] Heating may be accomplished by conventional means, such as the application of a heating iron or curler, or a hair dryer.

[0087] In addition, the reshaping may be performed by providing the keratinous fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical force may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratinous fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron or curler may be used as the reshaping means.

[0088] The reshaping means may comprise at least one heating element. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler. By reshaping the keratinous fibers, the keratinous fibers- keratinous fibers can be straightened or curled. Thus, the method according to the present invention can be for straightening or curling keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0089] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electrical heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratinous fibers and moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to smooth them.

[0090] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratinous fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to straighten them.

[0091] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably, more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably, more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0092] Step (iii) may be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0093] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0094] As a heating curler, any conventional heating curler can be used. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heating curler, this winding can be carried out over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle shape and the amount of curls, the winding can be carried out with more or less thick strands.

[0095] It is preferable that the heating rod, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating rod and a heating helmet, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0096] Step (iii) may be carried out by holding the keratinous fibers on a heating coil so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating coil but also by the intensity of the mechanical tension.

[0097] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating element, but also the intensity of the mechanical tension. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0098] If necessary, before step (iii), mechanical tension can be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.

[0099] Below, the details of compositions A and B used in the process according to the present invention will be explained. Composition A

[0100] Composition A of the present invention comprises:

[0101] (a) at least one silicone; and

[0102] (b) at least one vegetable oil.

[0103] (Shape)

[0104] The composition A used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel; or any other cosmetic form.

[0105] Composition A of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.

[0106] Composition A used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, composition A used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, or the like.

[0107] (pH)

[0108] Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less, and more preferably 6 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

[0109] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or higher, preferably 4 or higher, and more preferably 4.5 or higher, which is measured at 25°C.

[0110] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably 4 to 7, and more preferably 4.5 to 6, which is measured at 25°C.

[0111] The ingredients of composition A are described in detail below.

[0112] (a) Silicone

[0113] Composition A in the method according to the present invention comprises at least one silicone. Two or more silicones may be included in composition A. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used in composition A.

[0114] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" used herein denotes, in accordance with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially comprising a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond =Si-O-Si=), the optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being linked directly via a carbon atom to the silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C 6 C 10 alkyl radicals and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.

[0115] The silicone (a) may be selected from silicone oils.

[0116] Herein “silicone oil” means a silicone compound or substance which is under the form of a liquid or paste at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As silicone oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0117] Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0118] Thus, the silicone oil(s) may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Thus, the silicone oil may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

[0120] The volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organofunctional moiety or group. The silicone (a) is preferably non-volatile.

[0121] For example, the silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylaryl-siloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organofunctional moiety or group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.

[0122] The silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and polysiloxanes organomodified as explained above.

[0123] The molecular weight of the silicone (a), preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups, has an average molecular weight (Mw) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, more preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably 3,000,000 or less, more preferably 2,000,000 or less, even more preferably 1,000,000 or less.

[0124] According to one embodiment, the silicone (a), preferably the silicone oil, may be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones.

[0125] Preferred silicones (c) according to the present invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a viscosity at 25°C greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm2 / s), even more preferably a viscosity greater than 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, still better still less than 15,000,000 cSt.

[0126] According to the present invention, all polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as such or in the form of solutions, emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

[0127] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydialkylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; non-ionic emulsion of dimethicone oil), BY22-060 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low-viscosity silicone), BY22-019 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; non-ionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with cyclic silicone), BY22-020 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with light liquid isoparaffin), KM902 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd; highly polymerized non-ionic dimethicone emulsion), KM903 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low-viscosity silicone), X-52-2127 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low-viscosity silicone), X-52-2162 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low-viscosity silicone), EMU101 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; non-ionic emulsion containing . a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), XS65-B3803 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), DC 7-3100 (product of Dow Corning Toray Silicone, Co., Ltd.).

[0128] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxanes.

[0129] Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:

[0130] SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges from RHODIA;

[0131] the phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

[0132] silicones from the BAYER PK range, for example the PK20 product;

[0133] silicones from the PN, PH ranges from BAYER, for example the PN1000 products and PH1000; and

[0134] certain fluids from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0135] Organomodified silicones that may be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising at least one organofunctional moiety or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group within their structure.

[0136] The organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

[0137] polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl moieties, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® fluids L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, and (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;

[0138] alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the trade name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0139] hydroxylated fractions, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;

[0140] acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Patent No. 4,957,732;

[0141] anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic alkyl carboxylic moieties, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names "AB IL® S201" and "ABIL® S255";

[0142] acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; and

[0143] oxazoline fractions ----; y? Eye

[0144] such as silicones comprising 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 can also be used.

[0145] Polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dhne-thiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 range fluids marketed by RHODIA.

[0146] If the silicone oil(s) is / are volatile, the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organomodified polydimethylsiloxanes.

[0147] It is preferable that the silicone oil is selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant and / or at the end or ends of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, di-phenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organomodified silicones such as dimethiconol.

[0148] It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least

[0149]

[0150]

[0151]

[0152]

[0153]

[0154]

[0155]

[0156]

[0157] a non-volatile silicone, such as silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning. It is preferable that the degree of polymerization of the silicone (a) is less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone (a) is selected from amino-modified silicones. According to the present invention, the term “amino-modified silicone”, or amino silicone, or amodimethicone, designates any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine. As the amino silicone which can be used in the present invention, the following can be cited: (i) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): in which x' and y' are independent integers such that the sum of x' and y' is less than 2000; (ii) Aminosilicones corresponding to the formula (B): R'aG(3a)-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'(2b))mO-SiG(3a)R'a (B) in which: • G independently denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or a C1-C8 alkyl group, for example a methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group, for example a methoxy, • a and a' independently denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0158] R' independently denotes a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

[0159] -NR"-QN(R")2

[0160] -N(R")2

[0161] -N+(R")3A

[0162] -N+H(R")2 A

[0163] -N+H2(R") A

[0164] -NR"-Q-N+R"H2 A

[0165] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A

[0166] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A ,

[0167] in which

[0168] R" independently denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, for example a C1-C20 alkyl group;

[0169] Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4; and

[0170] A represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as a fluorine, a chloride, a bromide or an iodide.

[0171] A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” having the formula (C): | 9Hs I | 9¾ | --O — Si---1O — Si---OSi(CH^3 | | | (CH | n NH (Q) | I I NH. I __ __i m

[0172] in which n and m have the meaning given above in formula B.

[0173] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formula (D) or (E): (D)

[0174]

[0175]

[0176]

[0177] in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy group in which at least one of the groups R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy group. The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably 2,000 to 230,000, more specifically from 3,500 to 150,000. ÇHg If—R. CH$

[0178] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can designate a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0179] R 1 and R 2 independently represent a Cr-C 4 hydroxy or alkoxy group where at least one of the R 1 or R 2 groups denotes an alkoxy group.

[0180] The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

[0181]

[0182]

[0183]

[0184]

[0185]

[0186] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000. Commercial products corresponding to silicones having a structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E). A product containing an aminosilicone having structure (D) is marketed by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652. A product containing an aminosilicone having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®. Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F): CH HO—— CK CK | if—|—rO ch3 | | -! neither CHS -Yes— IA ! NH NH... ch3 O If OH CK (K

[0187]

[0188]

[0189]

[0190] in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000. A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning. Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G): CHa If CH5 ÇH^ 0—Çr—CHg GHg (G)

[0191] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0192] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0193] A silicone having this formula is for example the amino fluid DC2-8566 from Dow Corning.

[0194] (iii) Aminosilicones corresponding to the formula (H): (H;

[0195] in which: • R5 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example a methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene group or a C1-C18 divalent group, for example a C1-C18 alkylenoxy linked to Si via a SiC bond; • Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); • r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8 ; and

[0196]

[0197]

[0198] • s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such aminosilicones are described more particularly in US patent 4,185,087. (iv) Quaternary ammonium silicones having the formula (I): R„“N OH HÆH-QH.r R< if Z Si-Rg-CK-GHÔH-CH^N R. R. R.

[0199]

[0200]

[0201]

[0202] in which: R7 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R6 independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene group or a CrCi8 divalent group, for example a CrCi8 alkyleneoxy linked to Si via a SiC bond; R8 independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C[8] alkenyl group or a -R6-NHCOR7 group; X is an anion such as a halide ion, especially a chloride, or an organic acid salt (e.g., an acetate); and r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974. (v) Aminosilicones of formula (J): HgN - (C jy - NH - (Cyy - Si If IF—(J) -b in which: Rb R2, Ri and R4 independently denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group; R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxy group; m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g.

[0203] (vi) Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

[0204] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units having the following developed formula:

[0205] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]

[0206] or alternatively

[0207] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0208] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000; • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; • R independently represents a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon group, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R independently represents an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; preferably R independently represents a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; and • R' independently represents a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon group, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH T-

[0209] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.

[0210] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution of dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0211] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0212] Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names SILSOFT A-843 and SILSOFT A+ by Momentive.

[0213] (vii) Alkylaminosilicones corresponding to the formulae (K' and K) below: (K') ch3 O......$i.......R" CH3

[0214] in which • R, R' and R" independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxy group,

[0215] A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the sum of m + n is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, and more preferably less than about 1,000; ChT I ÇH, 9¾ R1 _^„1 g; _| j- q $..........| 0 $ Rg CH- CH J ? r CH3 < UJX | NH | ? (9H2)2 | NH, | y (K)

[0216] in which: • x and y are numbers such that the sum of x and y ranges from 1 to less than 2,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to less than 1,500 and in particular from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; • RI and R2, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0217] Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched.

[0218] The following divalent groups may be mentioned in particular: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-,

[0219]

[0220]

[0221]

[0222]

[0223]

[0224] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with: • x ranging from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; • ranging from 1 to 100; A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent groups: CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and • RI and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, RI and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. We can notably mention the silicone marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive. The aminosilicones of the present disclosure may also be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, for example aminopropyl end or side groups, for example those of formula (A), (B) or (C): (C)

[0225] In formula (A): the value of n is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, and more preferably less than 1,000. As an example of aminosilicone (A), mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

[0226] In formula (B), the sum of n and m is such that it is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, and more preferably less than 1,000. As examples of silicone (B), mention may be made of those marketed under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0227] In formula (C), the value of n is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, and more preferably less than 1,000. As an example of silicone (C), mention may be made of those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0228] Preferably, the aminosilicone according to the present invention is amodimethicone. In one embodiment, the aminosilicone is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. In another embodiment, the aminosilicone is aminopropyl dimethicone.

[0229] Amino silicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear amino silicones and branched having a viscosity ranging from 5x106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example, from 1x105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0230] The silicone(s) used in the present invention may also be a silicone gum. The term "silicone gum" as used herein refers to polyorganosiloxanes having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) between 200,000 and 2,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane or mixtures thereof; they may, for example, have one of the following structures: polydimethylsiloxane, poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)], poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (vinylhydrogensiloxane)], poly[(dihydrogendimethylsiloxane) / (divinylsiloxane)], poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane)], poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (phenylmethylsiloxane)], and poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)].

[0231] Silicones may be used as such or in the form of solutions in organic solvents or in the form of emulsions or microemulsions. Preferably, the silicone is in the form of an aqueous emulsion. The term "aqueous emulsion" is intended to denote an oil-in-water type emulsion in which the silicone copolymer is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in the aqueous phase forming the continuous phase of the emulsion. This silicone emulsion may have a silicone droplet or particle size ranging from 10 nm to 50 qm, and preferably from 0.3 qm to 20 qm. The particle size is measured by laser particle size analysis. This emulsion may be stabilized using a conventional emulsification system. The emulsification system comprises surfactants that are normally used in silicone emulsions.These surfactants may be non-ionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof.

[0232] The silicone(s) (a) may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0233] The silicone(s) (a) may be present in an amount of 60% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0234] The amount of the silicone(s) (a) in composition A according to the present invention may be from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] (b) Vegetable oil

[0236] Composition A according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one vegetable oil. Two or more vegetable oils (b) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of vegetable oil (b) or a combination of different types of vegetable oils (b) may be used.

[0237] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, and preferably non-volatile and polar.

[0238] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter ôa at 25°C is different from 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0239] In particular, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0240] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: The three-di-mensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0241] According to this Hansen space: • ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts; • ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; • ôh characterizes the strengths of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, and the like); • ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.

[0242] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0243] The term “vegetable oil” here refers to oils of vegetable origin.

[0244] The vegetable oil may be hydrocarbon-based. For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil does not include any silicon atoms.

[0245] Examples of vegetable oils (b) may include, but are not limited to, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, linseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil (coconut oil nucifera), pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, oil blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, watermelon oil and mixtures thereof.

[0246] The vegetable oil (b) may comprise at least one fatty acid. Thus, the vegetable oil (b) may be a vegetable oil containing a combination of fatty acids. The vegetable oil (b) may comprise a single type of fatty acid or a combination of different types of fatty acids.

[0247] The term “fatty acid” herein refers to a monofunctional carboxylic acid having an aliphatic chain.

[0248] The fatty acid may be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is linear.

[0249] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid may be selected from monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid may be selected from monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, and more preferably monounsaturated fatty acids.

[0250] Non-limiting examples of the fatty acid include fatty acids having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0251] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably monounsaturated fatty acids.

[0252] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, wherein the fatty acids are saturated or monounsaturated.

[0253] The fatty acid can be represented by the following formula (I):

[0254] RCOOH (I)

[0255] in which: • R is a linear or branched C8-C28 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably linear, preferably a C10-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably a C12-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group. R may comprise 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, and preferably one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0256] As non-limiting examples of fatty acids, mention may be made of ara-chidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0257] Preferably, the fatty acid is selected from linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0258] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the vegetable oil (b) is selected from avocado oil, jojoba oil and a combination thereof.

[0259] The fatty acid or acids may be present in the vegetable oil or oils (b) in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, and more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil or oils (b).

[0260] In one embodiment of the present invention, the vegetable oil (b) comprises at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, and preferably at least one linear monounsaturated fatty acid, comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0261] The monounsaturated fatty acid(s) may be present in the vegetable oil(s) (b) in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil(s) (b).

[0262] The linear monounsaturated fatty acid(s) may be present in the vegetable oil(s) (b) in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the vegetable oil(s) (b).

[0263] The vegetable oil or oils (b) may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0264] The vegetable oil or oils (b) may be present in an amount of 60% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0265] The amount of the vegetable oil or oils (b) in the composition A according to the present invention may be from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A.

[0266] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) in composition A may be 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0267] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) in composition A may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0268] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) in composition A may be from 3% to 99% by weight, preferably from 5% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition B

[0269] Composition B of the present invention comprises:

[0270] (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0271] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0272] (Shape)

[0273] Composition B used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel; or any other cosmetic form.

[0274] Composition B of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.

[0275] Composition B used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as than a cream, lotion, gel, or the like.

[0276] (pH)

[0277] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

[0278] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or higher, which is measured at 25°C.

[0279] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6, and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

[0280] The ingredients of composition B are described in detail below. [0281 ] (c) Glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof

[0282] Composition B according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0283] A single type of compound (c) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (c) may be used in combination.

[0284] Compound (c) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (c) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

[0285] As glyoxylic acid solvates, mention may be made, for example, of glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0286] As salts of glyoxylic acid, mention may be made, for example, of alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0287] As glyoxylic acid esters, mention may be made, for example, of al- esters glyoxylic acid alkyls such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0288] As glyoxylic acid amides, mention may be made, for example, of N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0289] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (c).

[0290] The amount of the compound(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0291] The amount of compounds (c) in the composition according to the present invention is less than 25% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, and more preferably less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0292] Thus, the amount of the compound(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to less than 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0293] In another embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 3% by weight, preferably more than 5% by weight, and more preferably more than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0294] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 3% and less than 25% by weight, preferably greater than 5% and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% and less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0295] (d) Keto acid

[0296] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof. Two or more compounds (d) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of compound (d) or a combination of different types of compounds (d) may be used.

[0297] The ketonic acids may be selected from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.

[0298] The α-keto acids may be compounds represented by the structural formula (I):

[0299] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0300] in which • R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as chlorine or bromine.

[0301] Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.

[0302] The [3-keto] acids can be represented by the developed formula (II):

[0303] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0304] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as chlorine or bromine; and • R3 denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0305] Examples of [3-keto] acids include acetoacetic acid.

[0306] The γ-keto acids can be represented by the structural formula (III):

[0307] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0308] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as chlorine or bromine; and • R4 denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0309] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.

[0310] The ketonic acid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkali earth metal salts of ketonic acid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketonic acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketonic acid.

[0311] It is preferable to use, as compound(s) (d), a γ-keto acid, and more preferably levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

[0312] The amount of compound(s) (d) in composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0313] The amount of compound(s) (d) in composition B of the present invention is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0314] Thus, the amount of compound(s) (d) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0315] In one embodiment, the amount of compound(s) (d) in composition B of the present invention may be 5 wt% or less, preferably 4 wt% or less, and more preferably 3 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0316] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (d) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0317] In another embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (d) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0318] In another embodiment of the present invention, the compound(s) (c) is (are) present in an amount less than the compound(s) (b) in composition B. For example, the weight ratio of compound(s) (b) to compound(s) (c) included in composition B may range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.

[0319] (Other optional ingredients) - Water

[0320] Compositions A and B according to the present invention may comprise water, respectively.

[0321] Thus, if each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention comprises water, the compositions according to the present invention are not anhydrous.

[0322] The amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0323] Furthermore, the amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0324] The amount of water in each of the compositions according to the present invention may be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. - Alkaline agent

[0325] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0326] In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A does not comprise any alkaline agent, while composition B comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0327] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent be non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0328] As examples of the inorganic alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide may be mentioned. As examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide may be mentioned. As an inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred.

[0329] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0330] As examples of the monoamines, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups. In particular, the alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0331] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: Rs\ A <B) NW-N / X R, R. O Ls

[0332] wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0333] The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0334] Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0335] Thus, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Oil

[0336] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one oil other than vegetable oil (b). Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0337] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention comprises at least one oil other than vegetable oil (b).

[0338] Herein, an "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste or solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils (g), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0339] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or the like; a polar oil such as an animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0340] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of animal oils, synthetic oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0341] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0342] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0343] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0344] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0345] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0346] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; dii-isopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0347] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of acids can be used. C6-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on hydrocarbons bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0348] Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0349] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C[2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0350] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0351] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0352] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0353] An example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0354] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0355] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tri-caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0356] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • lower C6-C16 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0357] As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0358] It is preferable that the oil is chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

[0359] The amount of the oil or oils in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0360] Furthermore, the amount of the oil or oils in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

[0361] Thus, the amount of the oil or oils in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Fatty alcohol

[0362] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0363] In one embodiment, compositions B of the present invention comprise at least one fatty alcohol, but composition A does not comprise the alcohol fat.

[0364] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0365] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0366] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols (h) that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0367] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

[0368] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0369] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0370] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (h) is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0371] The amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0372] Furthermore, the amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0373] Thus, the amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Non-ionic surfactant

[0374] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0375] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0376] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, for example, in this regard, the "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and that the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of alkylpolyglycosides (C6-C24) of glycerol; N-alkylglucamine (C6-C24) derivatives; amine oxides such as alkylamine (C10-C14) oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine (C10-C14) oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

[0377] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

[0378] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:

[0379] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated alkylphenols (C8-C24),

[0380] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols,

[0381] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides,

[0382] esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,

[0383] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,

[0384] saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and

[0385] condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixture.

[0386] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.

[0387] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ethylene glycol ester of fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0388] Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.

[0389] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0390] Examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the addition products of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); the addition products of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); addition products of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); addition products of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20);addition products of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20); the products; addition of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20); and mixtures thereof.

[0391] Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Oleth-2 to Oleth-20); and mixtures thereof.

[0392] It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant is selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

[0393] The amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.25% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0394] Furthermore, the amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0395] Thus, the amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Polyol

[0396] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

[0397] In one embodiment, both compositions A and B comprise at least one polyol.

[0398] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0399] The polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, carrying at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0400] Preferably, the polyol is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear, carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 functions. -OH, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0401] The polyols which are advantageously suitable are those comprising in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0402] The polyols may be chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear, comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of: • diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and • triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0403] and mixtures thereof.

[0404] In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from linear alkyl polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0405] The polyol(s) may be present in each of compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0406] The polyol(s) may be present in each of compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0407] The amount of the polyol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Monoalcohol

[0408] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one monoalcohol. A single type of monoalcohol may be used, or two or more different types of monoalcohols may be used in combination.

[0409] In one embodiment, both compositions A and B of the present invention both comprise at least one monoalcohol.

[0410] The monoalcohol herein may be a water-soluble hydrophilic monoalcohol. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" herein means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0411] The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, carrying a single hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0412] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol. having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0413] The term “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound carrying a single hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0414] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

[0415] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be selected from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.

[0416] The amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0417] Furthermore, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[0418] Thus, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Optional ingredients

[0419] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: viscosity correctors, such as thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents; preservatives; chelating agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the list above.

[0420] The above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which can be readily determined by those skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight in each of compositions A and B. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as the amounts thereof, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions used for the present invention. - Ammonia and thiol compound

[0421] It is preferable that the method according to the present invention does not include the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of ammonia or thiol compound. The term "free of ammonia or thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compound.

[0422] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention includes 1 wt% or less, more preferably 0.5 wt% or less, and even more preferably 0.1 wt% or less of ammonia or thiol compound, particularly no ammonia or thiol compound.

[0423] Due to the use of a very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during the process according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0424] The thiol compound here designates a compound which comprises at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0425] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and derivatives thereof, in particular C1-C4 acyl derivatives thereof such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and derivatives thereof, including esters thereof; cysteine ​​and derivatives thereof, including esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine ​​and alkyl esters of cysteine;thioglycerin and derivatives thereof, including s-alkyl derivatives, and salts thereof.;

[0426] As the above salts, there may be mentioned, for example, ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. As the primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, there may be mentioned monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.

[0427] Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid; pan-thetein; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 368 763; aminomercaptoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3); and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethylethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448. - Reducing agent and oxidizing agent

[0428] It is preferable that the method according to the present invention does not include an application of reducing agent or oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. The term "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that a composition does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0429] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0430] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0431] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0432] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygen salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates. {Optional step (iv)}

[0433] The method according to the present invention may or may not comprise an additional step (iv) for the application of at least one treatment composition other than composition A and composition B to the keratinous fibers. The treatment composition will be described in detail later.

[0434] The application of the treatment composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0435] The method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after application of the two compositions A and B and before step (iii) if applicable. Thus, the method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after both steps (i) and (ii) are completed and before step (iii) if applicable.

[0436] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention comprises step (i), step (ii), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.

[0437] In another embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention comprises step (ii), step (i), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.

[0438] The method according to the present invention may comprise an optional step of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers just before and / or after step (iv).

[0439] It may be possible, after application of the treatment composition, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

[0440] The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.01 g to 0.5 g relative to 1 g of keratinous fibers.

[0441] The method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) once, or may comprise step (iv) two or more times. In a preferred embodiment, the method according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) twice.

[0442] Where the method comprises step (iv) two or more times, each step (iv) may include applying the same or different treatment compositions.

[0443] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises step (iv) twice, and each step (iv) includes applying a different composition to the keratinous fibers.

[0444] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention does not comprise a rinsing step after step (iv). In this embodiment, the treatment composition used in step (iv) may be a leave-in type cosmetic composition.

[0445] (Treatment composition)

[0446] The form of the treatment composition which may be used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a lotion-type solution or dispersion or serum; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of cream type (O / W) or (W / O); an aqueous gel; or any other cosmetic form.

[0447] The treatment compositions which can be used for the present invention can have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably 3 to 7 at 25°C.

[0448] The formulations of the treatment compositions are not particularly limited, and compositions for keratinous fibers commonly used in the cosmetic field may be used. In one embodiment, the treatment composition may be a hair care composition.

[0449] For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one silicone and / or at least one polyol.

[0450] The silicone which may be included in the treatment composition is the same as silicone (a) explained above, and the same explanations may be applied.

[0451] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one amino-modified silicone.

[0452] The polyol which may be included in the treatment composition is the same as the polyol explained above, and the same explanations may be applied.

[0453] The amount of the silicone(s) in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

[0454] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one polyol selected from diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol and other polyols such as glycerol.

[0455] The amount of the polyol(s) in the treatment composition may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

[0456] The treatment composition may comprise water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.

[0457] The amount of water in the treatment composition may be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Kit]

[0458] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention.

[0459] Thus, the present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0460] a composition A comprising:

[0461] (a) at least one silicone; and

[0462] (b) at least one vegetable oil, and

[0463] a composition B comprising:

[0464] (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0465] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0466] In the kit according to the present invention, composition A and composition B may be provided separately, for example, in different containers.

[0467] The kit according to the present invention may further comprise at least one heating element, such as an iron or curler, which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C.

[0468] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C, and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0469] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or curler, may be used as the above iron or curler in the kit according to the present invention.

[0470] It is preferable that the heating element is a heating iron or a curler, as explained in the section titled [Method] above. Furthermore, the details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section titled [Method] above. [Use]

[0471] The present invention may relate to a use of the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0472] Thus, the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, in which

[0473] composition A comprises:

[0474] (a) at least one silicone; and

[0475] (b) at least one vegetable oil, and

[0476] composition B comprises:

[0477] (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0478] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0479] In particular, the present invention relates to a use of composition A as a pre-treatment agent or post-treatment agent for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibres with composition B, in which:

[0480] composition A comprises:

[0481] (a) at least one silicone; and

[0482] (b) at least one vegetable oil, and

[0483] composition B comprises:

[0484] (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0485] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0486] The use of the present invention may be carried out by heating the keratinous fiber, preferably the hair. In the use of the present invention, the heating may be provided after application of compositions A and B to the keratinous fiber.

[0487] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C, and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0488] Details of the compositions for use according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Method] above. EXAMPLES

[0489] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Preparation]

[0490] Compositions A and A' and composition B were prepared by mixing the in ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials.

[0491] [Tables 1] Composition A Composition A' PEG-8 Isostearate 2.25 2.25 Behentrimonium Chloride (80% by weight as MA) 2 2 Avocado Oil 5.25 - Jojoba Oil 5.25 - Undecane and Tridecane 3.5 3.5 Amodimethicone (15% by weight as MA) (1) 8 8 Glycerin 5 5 Ethanol 13.4 13.4 Water qs 100 qs 100 PH 5.5 5.5

[0492] MA: Active ingredient 1. sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active ingredient). Composition B Isopropyl Myristate 8 Cetearyl Alcohol 9.5 Steareth-20 4 Pentylene Glycol 5 Steareth-2 4 Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (30% by weight as MA) (2) 5 Cetyl Esters 1 Glyoxylic Acid (50% by weight as MA) (3) 14 Levulinic Acid (60% by weight as MA) (4) 4 Ethanol 0.25 Viscosity Regulator 0.5 pH Regulator qs pH 3.0 Water qs 100 PH 3.0

[0494] (2) sold by the company BASF under the name DEHYQUART F 30 (containing 30% of active ingredient).

[0495] (3) sold by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient).

[0496] (4) sold by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient). Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 Example 1

[0497] 1 g of Brazilian curly hair strand (type IV) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.5 g of ordinary shampoo. The formulation of any shampoo is shown in Table 3 below. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Regular Shampoo Sodium Laureth Sulfate 15 Coco-betaine 9 Preservatives 0.7 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Water qsp 100 pH Corrector qsp pH 5.5 Viscosity Corrector 2

[0499] Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the strand of wet hair as a pretreatment (Step (i)).

[0500] Then, without rinsing, composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the lock of hair (Step (ii)).

[0501] The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). The hair strand was then thoroughly rinsed with tap water and then dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dry.

[0502] The hair strand was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds / pass (Step (iii)). Comparative example 1

[0503] The hair strand, which was the same as that used in Example 1, was washed with 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1. Then, no treatment was applied to the hair strand according to Comparative Example 1. Thus, none of steps (i) to (iii) were carried out in this method. Comparative example 2

[0504] A sample according to Comparative Example 2 was prepared using 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1, and then the hair strand was dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dried. Then, the hair strand was subjected to straightening without any treatment with the hair straightener. The straightening method was the same as that of Example 1. Thus, only step (iii) was conducted in this method. Comparative example 3

[0505] A sample according to Comparative Example 3 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, but no pretreatment with composition A was carried out. Thus, step (i) was not carried out in this process. Comparative example 4

[0506] A sample according to Comparative Example 4 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, composition A' was used instead of composition A in the pretreatment step. Thus, step (i) of the present invention using the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) was not carried out in this process. Example 2

[0507] A sample according to Example 2 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, a strand of Chinese curly hair (type III) was used instead of the strand of Brazilian curly hair (type IV). Example 3

[0508] Example 2 was repeated, but after rinsing composition B with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 5 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Then, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand. Then, the hair strand was dried with a hair dryer and was subjected to straightening in the same manner as in Example 1.

[0509] Thus, the method according to Example 3 included an additional step (iv).

[0510] The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are presented in Tables 4 and 5 below, respectively. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials. Hair Care Composition Y Cetearyl Alcohol 6 Cetyl Esters 1.5 Behentrimonium Chloride (80% by weight as MA) 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Amo-Dimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (15% by weight of Amodimethicone MA) (5) 15 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (57% by weight of Amodimethicone MA) (6) 4.5 Preservatives 0.5 Glycerin 2 Water qs 100 PH 4.0

[0512] (5) sold by the Wacker company under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% of active ingredient).

[0513] (6) sold by the Wacker company under the name Belsil ADM 4000 E (containing 57% of active ingredient).

[0514] [T ableaux5 ] Hair Care Composition Z Water qsp 100 pH Regulator qsp pH 5.0 Butylene glycol 4 Viscosity Regulator 0.5 PEG-240 / HDI Copolymer Bis-de-cyltetradeceth-20 ether (30% by weight of MA) (7) 3 Preservative 0.7 Undecane (and) Tridecane 1 Aminopropyl Dimethicone (55% by weight of MA) (8) 8.83 Isononyl Isononanoate 3

[0515] (7) sold by the company ADEKA under the name ADEKANOL GT-730 (containing 30% of active ingredient).

[0516] (8) sold by SHIN ETSU company under the name X-22-9686 (containing 55% of active ingredient). Comparative example 5

[0517] Example 2 was repeated, but step (i) was not carried out in this process. Comparative example 6

[0518] Example 2 was repeated, but Composition A' was used instead of Composition A in the pretreatment step. Thus, step (i) of the present invention using the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) was not carried out in this process. Comparative example 7

[0519] Example 3 was repeated, but Composition A' was used instead of Composition A in the pretreatment step. Thus, step (i) of the present invention using the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) was not carried out in this process.

[0520] The processes according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 are summarized in Table 6. As explained above, in these examples, steps (i), (ii), (iv) and (iii) were carried out in that order, where appropriate.

[0521] [Tableauxô] Hair strand Step (i) Step (ii) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 1 Brazilian curly hair strand Composition A Completed - Completed Ex. Comp. 1 - - - - Ex. Comp. 2 - - - Completed Ex. Comp. 3 - Completed - Completed Ex. Comp. 4 Composition A' Completed - Completed Ex. 2 Chinese curly hair strand Composition A Completed - Completed Ex. 3 Composition A Completed Completed Completed Ex. Comp. 5 - Completed - Completed Ex. Comp. 6 Composition A' Completed - Completed Ex. Comp. 7 Composition A' Completed Completed Completed Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 8 and 9 Example 4

[0522] 1 g of strand of Chinese curly hair (type III) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.5 g of a regular shampoo. The formulation of the regular shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1.

[0523] Composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the strand of wet hair as a pretreatment (Step (ii)).

[0524] The lock of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C), then rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

[0525] Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the hair strand (Step (i)) as a post-treatment.

[0526] The hair strand was then thoroughly rinsed again with tap water and then blow-dried until the hair strand was dry.

[0527] The hair strand was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds / pass (Step (iü)). Example 5

[0528] Example 4 was repeated, but then after rinsing composition A with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Then, 0.003 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). Then, the hair strand was dried with a hair dryer and was subjected to straightening in the same manner as in Example 1.

[0529] Thus, the method according to Example 4 included an additional step (iv).

[0530] The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z were the same as those used in Example 3, shown in Tables 4 and 5 above, respectively. Comparative example 8

[0531] Example 4 was repeated, but Composition A' was used instead of Composition A in the post-treatment step. Thus, step (i) of the present invention using the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) was not carried out in this process. Comparative example 9

[0532] Example 5 was repeated, but Composition A' was used instead of Composition A in the post-treatment step. Thus, step (i) of the present invention using the silicone(s) (a) and the vegetable oil(s) (b) was not carried out in this process.

[0533] The processes according to Examples 4 to 5 and Comparative Examples 8 and 9 are summarized in Table 7. As explained above, in these examples, steps (ii), (i), (iv) and (iii) were carried out in that order, where appropriate.

[0534] [Tables?] Strand of hair Step (ii) Step (i) Step (iv) Step (i) Ex. 4 Strand of hair Strand of hair Completed Composition A - Completed Ex. 5 Completed Composition A Completed Completed Ex. Comp. 8 Completed Composition A' - Completed Ex. Comp. 9 Completed Composition A' Completed Completed [Assessment]

[0535] (Smoothing effect)

[0536] After each of the treated hair strands was kept at room temperature (25°C) for three hours, the smoothing level of the treated hair strand was visually evaluated based on three aspects of “smoothing performance”, “frizz level” and “volume” according to the following criteria.

[0537] 5: Excellent

[0538] 4: Good

[0539] 3: Correct

[0540] 2: Bad

[0541] 1: Very bad

[0542] (Sensory appreciation)

[0543] The treated hair strands were evaluated in terms of “ease of combing” and “ease of application of hair iron” according to the following criteria. - Easy to comb

[0544] The hair strand treated in each of the processes was combed by a trained person and the combing resistance was evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0545] 4: Combing can be done with almost no feeling of friction

[0546] 3: Combing is easy with low friction

[0547] 2: Combing requires effort, friction is very high

[0548] 1: Impossible to comb - Ease of application of the hair iron

[0549] In step (iii) of each of the methods, the slip resistance of the iron in the hair iron application was evaluated by a trained person according to the following criteria.

[0550] 4: The passage of the iron is regular, without resistance

[0551] 3: The iron passage is easy, as usual

[0552] 2: Passing the iron requires effort, the iron gets stuck at the tips

[0553] 1: Passing the iron evenly is very hard, the iron gets stuck frequently

[0554] The results are shown in Table 8 below.

[0555] [Tables8] Smoothing effect Ease of combing Ease of passage of the hair straightener Ex. 1 4 4 4 Ex. Comp. 1 1 3 - Ex. Comp. 2 2 3 3 Ex. Comp. 3 3 2 2 Ex. Comp. 4 3 3 3 Ex. 2 4 4 3 Ex. 3 4 4 4 Ex. Comp. 5 3 2 2 Ex. Comp. 6 3 3 3 Ex. Comp. 7 3 4 3 Ex. 4 4 4 3 Ex. 5 4 4 4 Ex. Comp. 8 3 3 3 Ex. Comp. 9 3 4 3

[0556] It is clear that the methods according to the examples, which include steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii), provided a better smoothing effect compared to the methods according to the comparative examples, which do not include all steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii). Furthermore, the methods according to the examples could provide the keratinous fibers with good sensory effects, such as "ease of combing" and "ease of applying the hair iron".

Claims

Claims

1. A method for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one silicone; and (b) at least one vegetable oil, (ii) applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof;and (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, and more preferably more than 150°C, wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).;

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the silicone (a) is selected from amino-modified silicones.

3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the silicone(s) (a) in the composition is from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

4. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the vegetable oil comprises at least one fatty acid.

5. The method of claim 4, wherein the fatty acid is selected from monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids.

6. The method of claim 4, wherein the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms.

7. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein compound (d) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

8. A method according to any preceding claim, in wherein the pH of composition B is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

9. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the method does not include applying ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers, or applying a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.

10. A kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a composition A comprising: (a) at least one silicone; and (b) at least one vegetable oil, and a composition B comprising: (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and (d) at least one compound, different from compound (c), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.