Hair treatment methods for straightening hair

Abstract

HAIR TREATMENT METHODS FOR SMOOTHING HAIR The present disclosure relates to a method of treating hair comprising: (i) applying a hair smoothing composition including at least one keto acid to the hair, leaving the composition on the hair, and rinsing the smoothing composition from the hair; (ii) applying a conditioning composition to the hair, leaving the conditioning composition on the hair, and rinsing the conditioning composition from the hair; the conditioning composition including: one or more polar fatty compounds; one or more water-miscible solvents; and one or more cationic surfactants; wherein the conditioning composition is substantially free of water;and (iii) applying a leave-in finishing composition to the hair, the leave-in finishing composition including: one or more cyclic carbonates, one or more silicones; and water. Figure for abstract: none;

Description

Title of the invention: Hair treatment methods for straightening hair SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] The present disclosure relates to methods of treating hair comprising treating hair with the compositions. Treatment with the compositions provides the hair with improved fiber alignment, frizz control, and smoothness. CONTEXT

[0002] Many consumers desire to use cosmetic and care compositions that enhance the appearance of hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. Hair can become dry or damaged for a variety of reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing the hair), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc. Even cleansing products can strip the hair of its natural oils, causing dryness, which leads to a dull appearance, split ends, and frizz.

[0003] Chemical hair treatments include bleaching and coloring treatments to change the color of the hair. Chemical treatments also include processes to permanently change the shape and structure of the hair, for example, by perming, waving, relaxing, or straightening the hair. These chemical treatments often alter the appearance of the hair by changing its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of damage to the hair. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts.

[0004] The popularity and use of oils for hair treatments has increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Commonly used oils include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can make hair greasy. Furthermore, effects are usually not seen until several hours (e.g., 8 hours) of treatment and multiple treatments are usually required, making the treatment time-consuming and laborious.

[0005] Hair damage leads to split ends, dryness, Hair that scrunches easily and becomes frizzy and difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair is dead, it cannot regenerate itself. Many over-the-counter and salon treatments claim to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments provide little improvement to the hair. Therefore, hair treatment technologies that can straighten, relax, or style hair without chemically damaging it are desired.

[0006] There still exists a need to provide improved manageability of hair, for example, improved hair alignment, reduced unwanted volume (particularly reduced frizz), and increased shine. SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE

[0007] The present disclosure relates to methods for improving the appearance, feel, and manageability of hair. In particular, the hair treatment compositions and methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart a smooth texture. The treated hair is soft, shiny, revitalized, and has a healthy appearance. The methods form a smooth texture on the surface of the hair, which is surprisingly durable. The desirable cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting, humidity-resistant, and maintained even after washing the hair.

[0008] The methods of the present disclosure typically comprise:

[0009] (i) applying a hair smoothing composition comprising at least one keto acid optionally having a pH of about 2 to about 4 on the hair, leaving the composition on the hair, and rinsing the hair smoothing composition from the hair;

[0010] (ii) applying a conditioning composition to the hair, leaving the conditioning composition on the hair, and rinsing the conditioning composition from the hair; the conditioning composition comprising:

[0011] (a) one or more polar fatty compounds;

[0012] (b) one or more water-miscible solvents; and

[0013] (c) one or more cationic surfactants; wherein the revita composition lization is substantially free of water; and

[0014] (iii) applying a leave-in finishing composition to the hair, the leave-in finishing composition comprising:

[0015] (a) one or more cyclic carbonates

[0016] (b) one or more silicones; and

[0017] (c) water.

[0018] After applying the leave-in finishing composition, the hair may be dried, for example, with a hair dryer such as, for example, to be essential Initially completely dry. This can be done without first rinsing the leave-in finishing composition from the hair. Subsequently, the hair can be treated with a heat treatment such as that occurring at a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C. In various embodiments, the heat treatment occurs at a temperature of about 150 to about 250°C, 150 to about 240°C, about 180 to about 300°C, about 180 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 300°C, about 200 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 260°C, about 200 to about 250°C, about 210 to about 300°C, about 210 to about 280°C, about 180°C, about 190°C, about 200°C, about 210°C, about 220°C, about 230°C, about 240°C, about 250°C, or about 260°C.

[0019] In various embodiments, the heat treatment includes treating (i.e., drying) the hair with a hot iron, e.g., a curling iron or a flat iron. The hot iron may be passed over the hair one or more times, e.g., one or more passes, two or more passes, three or more passes, or four or more passes.

[0020] Keto acids useful in the hair straightening composition are compounds that include both at least one carboxylic acid group and at least one ketone group. Non-limiting examples include keto acids having two to five carbon atoms (C2-C5) such as glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid.

[0021] Polar fatty compounds useful in the conditioning composition include fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and fatty esters. The polar fatty compound may have one or more C8 or higher carbon chains.

[0022] Cationic surfactants useful in the conditioning composition include fatty amidoamines, quaternized amines and the like.

[0023] Water-miscible solvents useful in the conditioning composition include polyols such as glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, glycols, glycerin ketal / acetal compounds, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more water-soluble solvents is glycerin, a glycol (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof.

[0024] Cyclic carbonates useful in the leave-in finishing composition are also referred to as cyclic carbonate esters. Non-limiting examples of cyclic carbonates include propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, ethylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, propylene carbonate is preferred.

[0025] Silicones useful in the leave-in finishing composition include silicone oils such as dimethicones and dimethiconols; and amino-silicones functionalized such as amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, amodimethicone is preferred.

[0026] The methods are useful for improving the appearance, feel, and style of hair. Accordingly, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, for example, methods for improving the appearance, feel, or style of hair. More specifically, the present disclosure relates to methods for improving fiber alignment, reducing frizz, and imparting a smooth texture to hair. Such methods typically include applying the hair smoothing composition, the conditioning composition, and the leave-in finishing composition to the hair. In some embodiments, without rinsing the composition from the hair, the hair is dried and treated with a hot iron. In various embodiments, the temperature of the hot iron is at least 100°C, such as at least 150°C, for example, from about 150°C to about 240°C.Treated hair is soft, smooth, shiny, revitalized, non-squeaky, and healthy-looking. The smooth coating is surprisingly durable. The enhanced cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting and are maintained even after washing the hair.

[0027] In various embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may be used in a routine with one or more additional hair treatment steps. For example, a cleansing composition (shampoo) may be used, for example, before using the hair smoothing composition. Brief Description of the Drawings

[0028] An implementation of the present technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figure, in which:

[0029] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] shows strands of hair treated using methods of the present disclosure, comparative methods and a baseline strand.

[0030] It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentalities shown in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0031] The present disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, such as hair in need of reducing frizz and / or improving smooth texture. This is achieved using a sequence of composition(s) that includes a unique combination of ingredients: typically using a low pH hair smoothing composition containing keto acid; an anhydrous conditioner including a polar fatty compound, a cationic surfactant and a water-miscible solvent; and a Water-based, no-rinse finish including cyclic carbonate, silicone, and water.

[0032] The inventors believe that cyclic carbonates undergo a reaction when subjected to heat treatment. The heat activates a reaction with the carbonate (propylene) and amine groups of the hair fibers, presumably forming an N,N'-disubstituted urea bond that contributes to the durability of the newly formed form.

[0033] The present methods are gentle, durable, and reduce frizz while improving the smooth texture of the hair. The methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart smooth texture to a surprising degree. The longevity of the improved fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and smooth texture is also significant and surprising. Hair treated in accordance with the methods described herein retains these desirable cosmetic properties even after multiple cleaning cycles. Thus, the benefits provided by the disclosed methods are surprisingly long-lasting and wash-resistant.

[0034] Methods in accordance with the present disclosure typically include: i. applying a hair smoothing composition comprising at least one keto acid and optionally having a pH of about 2.0 to about 4.0 to the hair, leaving the composition on the hair, and rinsing the hair smoothing composition from the hair; i. applying a conditioning composition to the hair and rinsing the conditioning composition from the hair; the conditioning composition comprising:

[0035] (a) one or more polar fatty compounds;

[0036] (b) one or more water-miscible solvents; and

[0037] (c) one or more cationic surfactants; wherein the revita composition lization is substantially free of water; and i. applying a leave-in finishing composition to the hair; the leave-in finishing composition comprising:

[0038] (a) one or more cyclic carbonates

[0039] (b) one or more silicones; and

[0040] (c) water.

[0041] After applying the leave-in composition, the hair may be dried, for example, with a hair dryer or may dry naturally. Thereafter, the hair is desirably treated with a heat treatment. The heat treatment typically occurs at a temperature of about 150 to about 240°C. In various embodiments, the heat treatment occurs at a temperature that is preferably from 150°C to about 240°C, more preferably from about 180°C to about 230°C.

[0042] In various embodiments, the heat treatment includes treating the hair with a hot iron, e.g., a curling iron or a flat iron. The hot iron may be passed over the hair one or more times, e.g., one or more passes, two or more passes, three or more passes, or four or more passes. Methods

[0043] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein are particularly useful in methods of treating hair, preferably human hair, especially human hair. Treatment with the compositions improves fiber alignment, reduces frizz, and imparts a smooth texture to the hair. The methods typically include applying a hair smoothing composition to the hair. Prior to treating the hair with the hair smoothing composition, the hair may be washed with a conventional shampoo, e.g., a sulfate-free shampoo, and rinsed to remove residual shampoo from the hair. The hair should preferably be wet or damp. In other embodiments, the hair may be treated with a relaxer (alkaline treatment) prior to treatment with the hair smoothing composition and / or prior to treatment with the optional shampoo treatment.In any case, the hair is preferably wet or damp at the time of treatment with the hair smoothing composition.

[0044] The hair is treated with a hair straightening composition that includes at least one keto acid. The keto acid in the hair straightening composition, such as glyoxylic acid, provides straightening to the hair fibers without breaking the cystine disulfide bond. Therefore, it provides long-lasting straightening effects without damaging the hair and scalp, which is more common with alkaline chemical agents. The carboxylic and aldehyde groups of glyoxylic acid react with the amine groups in the hair keratin, resulting in the formation of stable bonds. The hair smoothing composition including keto acid typically has an acidic pH, such as from about 2.5 to about 5. In various embodiments, the pH of the hair smoothing composition is from about 2.0 to about 4.0 or 2.5 to about 4.5, from about 2.5 to about 4, from about 2.5 to about 3.5, or from about 2.8 to about 3.2.Hair smoothing compositions may be applied to the hair, allowed to remain or stay on the hair for a period of time (e.g., 1 to 30 min, 1 to 20 min, 1 to 10 min, 5 to 30 min, 5 to 25 min, 5 to 20 min, 5 to 15 min, 10 to 30 min, 10 to 25 min, 10 to 20 min, or 10 to 15 min), and then rinsed from the hair.

[0045] After rinsing the smoothing composition from the hair and optionally towel drying the hair, the hair is then treated with a conditioning composition that includes (a) a polar fatty compound; (b) a water-miscible solvent; and (c) a cationic surfactant. The conditioning composition is anhydrous, i.e. substantially free of water. The conditioning composition may be applied to the hair, left on the hair for a period of time (e.g., 1 to 30 min, 1 to 20 min, 1 to 10 min, 5 to 30 min, 5 to 25 min, 5 to 20 min, 5 to 15 min, 10 to 30 min, 10 to 25 min, 10 to 20 min, or 10 to 15 min), and then rinsed from the hair. Alternatively, the conditioning composition may be applied to the hair, massaged thoroughly into the hair, and rinsed without significant residence time, and optionally towel dried.

[0046] After rinsing the conditioning composition and optionally towel drying, the hair is then treated with a leave-in finishing composition that includes (a) one or more cyclic carbonates, (b) silicone, and (c) water.

[0047] In various embodiments, the pH of the leave-in finishing composition is from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5 or 2.5 to about 5.0, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, from about 2.0 to about 5.0, from about 3.0 to about 5.0, or from about 3.0 to about 4.5, or from about 3.5 to about 4.5. The leave-in finishing composition may be applied to the hair, left on the hair for a period of time (e.g., 1 to 30 min, 1 to 20 min, 1 to 10 min, 5 to 30 min, 5 to 25 min, 5 to 20 min, 5 to 15 min, 10 to 30 min, 10 to 25 min, 10 to 20 min, or 10 to 15 min), and then rinsed from the hair. Again, no appreciable dwell time may be used.

[0048] Applying the leave-in finishing composition to the hair will moisten the hair because the compositions are aqueous (containing a substantial amount of water). Therefore, after massaging or spreading the composition throughout the hair, without rinsing the composition from the hair, the hair may be dried, for example, the hair may be dried using a hair dryer. Once the hair is dry, it is preferably treated with a thermal treatment (heat treated). For example, the hair may be treated with a hot iron, in particular, a flat iron. Typically, the hot iron is passed over the hair at least once, at least twice, at least three times, or more.

[0049] The hair may be dried and treated with a hot iron, such as a flat iron, at a temperature of about 150°C to about 240°C, preferably 150°C to about 240°C, more preferably about 180°C to about 230°C.

[0050] The treated hair is also soft, shiny, revitalized and healthy-looking. The compositions include a unique combination of a cyclic carbonate and an (amino-functionalized) silicone, which forms a smooth coating on the surface of the hair. The smooth coating is surprisingly durable. The improved cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting and are maintained even after multiple wash cycles. Compositions

[0051] Compositions useful in methods of the present invention interact with with each other in a synergistic manner. Treatment with the compositions improves fiber alignment, reduces frizz, and imparts smooth texture, to a surprising extent. The longevity of the improved fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and smooth texture is also significant and surprising. Hair treated with the compositions of the present disclosure retains these desirable cosmetic properties, even after multiple cleansing cycles. Thus, the benefits provided by the compositions are long-lasting and resistant to washing. Hair Smoothing Composition

[0052] The hair smoothing composition useful in the present invention includes at least one keto acid. By keto acid is meant a compound that comprises both at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and at least one ketone group (-C=O). Keto acids generally provide semi-permanent hair smoothing without breaking the cystine disulfide bond. They can provide long-lasting smoothing effects to hair fibers, without damaging the hair and irritating the scalp.

[0053] Non-limiting examples of keto acids include those having two to five carbon atoms. Examples of such C2-C5 keto acids include glyoxylic acid (C2H2O3) and levulinic acid (C5H8O3). The keto acid may have a pKa of about 3.0 to about 5.0. These compounds may, for example, be introduced into the composition in acid and / or salt form.

[0054] The total amount of the one or more keto acids in the hair smoothing composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more keto acids, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, or about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions.In some embodiments, the hair smoothing composition includes about 1 to about 10% glyoxylic acid and about 1 to about 5% levulinic acid.

[0055] The hair smoothing composition may have a pH corrected to be in a range of about 2.0 to about 5.0, about 2.0 to about 4.0 or 2.5 to about 4.5, about 2.5 to about 4, about 2.5 to about 3.5, or about 2.8 to about 3.2. Accordingly, it is desirable that the hair smoothing composition be aqueous. In some embodiments, the hair smoothing composition comprises between about 35% and about 90% water, such as about 40% or 45% to about 80% water.

[0056] Other ingredients may be included in the hair smoothing composition such as one or more water-miscible solvents, one or more surfactants or emulsifiers, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds (e.g., fatty alcohols, fatty esters), and one or more miscellaneous ingredients. The water-miscible solvents, surfactants or emulsifiers, non-silicone fatty compounds, and miscellaneous ingredients are described in this specification in the section "Leave-in Finishing Composition." For the water-miscible solvents, polyols and monoalcohols are notable. For the non-silicone fatty compounds, fatty alcohols and fatty esters are notable. For the surfactants and emulsifiers, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are notable.

[0057] The total amount of the one or more water-miscible solvents in the composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair smoothing compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the compositions. In additional embodiments, the hair smoothing compositions include about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, or about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on a total weight of the compositions.

[0058] The total amount of surfactants or emulsifiers in the hair smoothing composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. In some embodiments, the surfactants or emulsifiers are non-ionic.

[0059] The total amount of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds in the hair smoothing composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, or about 3 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.

[0060] The hair smoothing composition generally also includes water, such as from about 40 to about 80% by weight. The hair smoothing composition may also include one or more of various miscellaneous ingredients. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the hair smoothing composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, or about 2 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. .

[0061] The hair smoothing composition typically has a pH of about 2 to about 4 and may include:

[0062] (a) about 5 to 20% by weight of one or more keto acids;

[0063] (b) about 35% to about 90% water;

[0064] (c) optionally, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more solvents miscible with water;

[0065] (d) optionally about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one surfactant; and wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the hair straightening composition. Revitalizing composition

[0066] Conditioning compositions useful in the present invention include (a) a polar fatty compound; (b) a water-miscible solvent; and (c) a cationic surfactant. Further, the conditioning composition is substantially free of water.

[0067] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. Cationic surfactants useful in the conditioning composition include fatty amidoamines, quaternized amines, and the like. Ami-doamines are particularly notable in the hair smoothing composition.

[0068] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidoprolimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl-dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl-diethylamine, arachimidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassi-camidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0069] The total amount of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition may vary but is typically from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some cases, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) is from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Water-miscible solvents are described below with respect to the leave-in finishing compositions. Similar water-miscible solvents may be used in the conditioning composition. Polyols and monohydric alcohols are particularly noteworthy. The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the hair smoothing compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 50 to about 98% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the compositions. In additional embodiments, the com positions include about 50 to about 98 wt. %, about 50 to about 95 wt. %, about 65 to about 98 wt. %, about 65 to about 98 wt. %, about 75 to about 98 wt. %, or about 75 to about 96 wt. %, based on the total weight of the compositions.

[0071] The polar fatty compounds useful in the conditioning composition are fatty compounds that include at least one polar functional group. The polar fatty compounds may be non-silicone fatty compounds. The polar fatty compounds may have one or more carbon chains of C8 or greater. The one or more carbon chains may each independently be of more than 8 carbon atoms, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0072] Non-limiting examples of polar fatty compounds include fatty esters, fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters (glycerol esters), fatty acids, fatty esters, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty esters include glycerol fatty esters, sucrose fatty esters, sorbitan fatty ester, fatty acid esters, or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, and fatty acid derivatives are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Sixteenth Edition, 2016.A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful polar fatty compounds are the polar variants listed under the heading "Non-silicone Fatty Compounds." Particularly suitable examples include fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol), fatty acids (e.g., oleic acid), and fatty esters.

[0073] The total amount of the one or more polar fatty compounds in the conditioning composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, of the one or more polar fatty compounds, based on the total weight of the composition.The total amount of one or more polar fatty compounds may be from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0074] The revitalizing composition is anhydrous and may include:

[0075] (a) about 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one polar fatty compound;

[0076] (b) about 50 to about 95% by weight of at least one water-miscible solvent; and

[0077] (c) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, in which all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition. Leave-in finishing composition

[0078] The leave-in finishing composition includes (a) one or more

[0079] cyclic carbonates; (b) one or more silicones; and (c) water. (a) Cyclic carbonates

[0080] Cyclic carbonates are also known as cyclic carbonate esters. Non-limiting examples of cyclic carbonates include propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, ethylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, propylene carbonate is preferred.

[0081] The total amount of the one or more cyclic carbonates in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more cyclic carbonates, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 1 to about 18 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 18 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 18 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, about 5 to about 12 wt%, about 8 to about 20 wt%, about 8 to about 18 wt%, about 8 to about 15 wt%, or about 8 to about 12 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (b) Silicones

[0082] According to certain embodiments, the silicone is selected from dimethicones, dimethiconols, aminosilicones and mixtures thereof. Dimethiconols are hydroxyl-terminated dimethylsilicones and can be represented by the general chemical formulas

[0083] wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to about 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Dimethicones generally have similar structures, but lack the hydroxyl functional groups.

[0084] In some notable embodiments, the silicone is an aminosilicone. The term "amino-functionalized silicone" or the term "aminosilicones" refers to a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino, and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functionalized silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group may be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g., in the case of amodimethicones) and / or in the side chain.

[0085] In some cases, an amino-functional silicone is selected from compounds having the following formula: If (8¾ O—Yes

[0086] in which: • each RI is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a C1-30 alkaryl group, a C1-30 alkoxyaryl group, and a hydroxy group (preferably, each RI is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group and a hydroxy group); • each R2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms); • each R3 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group and a C1-30 alkaryl group (preferably, each R3 is independently selected from one of a C1-30 alkyl group); • Q is a monovalent radical chosen from -NR42 and -NR4(CH2)j:NR42; • each R4 is independently selected from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl; • x is 2 to 6; • z is 0 or 1; • n is 25 to 3,000 (preferably 25 to 2,000; more preferably 25 to 1,000; most preferably 25 to 500); and • m is 0 to 3,000 (preferably, 0 to 2,000; more preferably, 0 to 1000; most preferably 0 to 100);

[0087] provided that at least 50 mol% of the total number of groups R1 and R3 are methyl and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.

[0088] Preferred R1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydroxy. Preferred divalent alkylene radicals R2 include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2 and CH2CH2CH(CH3)CH2.

[0089] Preferred R3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, and tolyl. Preferred R4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functionalized silicone has only pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functionalized silicone may have only terminal amine functional substituents (e.g., m = 0) or may have both terminal and pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain (e.g., m > 0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.

[0090] In some cases, the amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones. Suitable alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated amino silicones may be chosen from compounds of the following formula:

[0091]

[0092]

[0093] in which R3 is hydroxyl or OR5, R5 is a C1-C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group having a structure according to the following formula: - CH2 CH CH2 NH (CH^ NHg ' Rg R6 is C1-C4 alkyl, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as “n” described above, and y is the same as “m” described above. The silicone can be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula:

[0094]

[0095]

[0096]

[0097] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000; b) amino silicones corresponding to the following formula: R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a in which: • G, which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or a Cr-C8 alkyl group, for example a methyl, or a Cr-C8 alkoxy, for example a methoxy, • a, which may be the same or different, designates the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; • m and n are numbers so that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups:

[0098] -NR"-QN(R")2

[0099] -N(R”)2

[0100] -N+(R")3 A-

[0101] -N+H(R")2 A-

[0102] -N+H2(R") A-

[0103] -N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A-

[0104] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A-

[0105] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-,

[0106] in which R", which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as a fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0107] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formula:

[0108] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Rb R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes a

[0109]

[0110] alkoxy radical. The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000. Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula: R; [YES]

[0112]

[0113] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can designate a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Ri, R2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical. The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly, is equal to 1:0.95. Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0114] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0115] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

[0116] Another amino silicone group is represented by the following formula:

[0117] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0118] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0119] Another amino silicone group is represented by the following formula:

[0120] in which: • R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example a methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C18, linked to Si via an SiC bond; • Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example an acetate); • r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; • s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

[0121] Such amino silicones are described more particularly in US patent 4,185,087.

[0122] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the formula next:

[0123] R? R,-Nc i R,

[0124] in which: • R7, which may be identical or different, represent a hy radical monovalent carbon containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example a methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; • R8, which may be the same or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7x radical; • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example an acetate); • r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974.

[0125] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0126] in which: • Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group; • R5 denotes a CrC4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

[0127] and wherein x is chosen so that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 mEq / g; • multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of the (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

[0128] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units having the following developed formulas:

[0129] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]

[0130] or alternatively

[0131] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R" )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0132] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000; • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; • R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; • R', which can be the same or different, represent a hy radical linear or branched C2-C12 divalent carbon atom, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0133] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.

[0134] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 mEq / g of copolymer in a 30% dipropylene glycol solution, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0135] Non-limiting examples of amino-functional silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones and a combination thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the above structure, also known as "Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, terminated [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]". Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trademark DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from the Dow Chemical Company. A particularly preferred amino-functional silicone is amodimethicone. A non-example A limiting factor of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. Additionally or alternatively, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, even more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000 and most preferably from 10,000 to 50,000.

[0136] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In other preferred embodiments, the amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone.

[0137] The total amount of the one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the leave-on finishing compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include from about 1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more amino-functionalized silicones, based on the total weight of the leave-on finishing composition. In other embodiments, the leave-on finishing compositions include from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 2 to about 10 wt%, from about 2 to about 8 wt%, from about 2 to about 6 wt%, from about 2 to about 5 wt%, from about 3 to about 10 wt%, from about 3 to about 8 wt%, from about 3 to about 6 wt% or from about 3 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the leave-on finishing composition. Ratio (a) to (b)

[0138] The weight ratio of the one or more cyclic carbonates (a) to the one or more amino-functionalized silicones (b) in the leave-on finishing compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the weight ratio of the one or more cyclic carbonates (a) to the one or more amino-functionalized silicones (b) is from about 20:1 to about 1:1 ((a):(b)).In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the one or more cyclic carbonates (a) to the one or more amino-functionalized silicones (b) is from about 18:1 to about 1:1, from about 15:1 to about 1:1, from about 12:1 to about 1:1, from about 10:1 to about 1:1, greater than 8:1 to about 1:1, greater than about 6:1 to about 1:1, greater than 20:1 to about 2:1, greater than 18:1 to about 2:1, from about 15:1 to about 2:1, from about 12:1 to about 2:1, from about 10:1 to about 2:1, from about 8:1 to about 2:1, from about 6:1 to about 2:1, from about 20:1 to about 3:1, from about 18:1 to . about 3:1, from about 15:1 to about 3:1, from about 12:1 to about 3:1, from about 10:1 to about 3:1, from about 8:1 to about 3:1, from about 6:1 to about 3:1, or from about 5:1 to about 3:1. (c) Water

[0139] The total amount of water in the leave-in finishing compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 50 to about 90% by weight of water, based on a total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 60 to about 90% by weight, about 70 to about 90% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 70 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, about 70 to about 80% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, based on a total weight of the compositions. (d) Polysaccharides

[0140] The term "polysaccharides" refers to compounds containing a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). The polysaccharides may be cationic, non-ionic, or anionic. In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferably non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0141] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include starches, gums, celluloses, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, modified potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride (sold as Dry-Flo by National Starch), starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch.

[0142] Non-limiting examples of cellulose-based polymers include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful herein. Of the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, preferred is the material with the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the trade name NATROSOL CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.

[0143] In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferentially chosen from scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units. with a glucose linked (1-6) every three units, a commercially available example of which is CLEAROGEL. CS1 1 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.

[0144] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, and biosaccharide gum and mixtures thereof.

[0145] In various embodiments, the one or more polysaccharides are selected from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified or unmodified), wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof. In still other embodiments, the polysaccharide is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is sold under the trade name STRUCTURE ZEA by Akzo Nobel. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more polysaccharides is sclerotium gum.

[0146] The total amount of the one or more polysaccharides in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of the one or more polysaccharides, based on the total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the compositions include between about 0.1 and about 6 wt%, about 0.1 and about 5 wt%, about 0.1 and about 4 wt%, about 0.1 and about 3 wt%, about 0.1 and about 2 wt%, about 0.2 and about 8 wt%, about 0.2 and about 6 wt%, about 0.2 and about 5 wt%, about 0.2 and about 4 wt%, about 0.2 and about 3 wt%, about 0.2 to about 2 wt%, about 0.3 to about 8 wt%, about 0.3 to about 6 wt%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, or about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0147] (e) Non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners

[0148] The leave-in finishing compositions may further include an associative thickener, i.e., a thickener capable of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules or particles. This physical association provides thickening and may give rise to thixotropic or shear-thinning systems, that is, systems whose viscosity depends on the shear forces to which they are subjected.

[0149] In various embodiments, the non-ionic associative polymer thickener is a non-ionic associative polyurethane thickener, preferably a non-ionic associative polyurethane / polyether. The non-ionic polyethers / polyurethanes may have both at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one hydrophobic moiety. More particularly, said polymers may contain in their chain both hydrophilic sequences, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic bonds alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic bonds. In various embodiments, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, knowing that the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence.In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0150] The polyether polyurethanes may be polyblocks, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymers). These same polymers may also be in the form of graft units or may be star-shaped.

[0151] Nonionic polyether / polyurethanes containing a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name. By extension, those whose hydrophilic blocks are linked by other chemical bonds to the hydrophobic blocks are also included among the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain.

[0152] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic polyethers / polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain include Rheolate® 205 containing a urea functional group sold by the company RHEOX or alternatively Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Other products include ELFACOS T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS containing a C20 alkyl chain and with a urethane linkage, sold at 20% solids in water, can also be used.

[0153] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of these polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J supplied by the company ROHM & HAAS.

[0154] As polyethers / polyurethanes described above, mention may be made of polyurethanes / polyethers comprising in their chain at least one polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic block and at least one of the hydrophobic blocks containing at least one sequence chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences and aromatic sequences. In various embodiments, it is preferable that the polyurethanes / polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic chains based on hydrocarbons having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, and in which the hydrocarbon-based chains are chosen from pendant chains and chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.

[0155] In a preferred embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether is used which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a dii-isocyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are notably sold by the company Elément under the name Rheolate FX 1100® and Rheoluxe 811®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight average molecular weight of 40,000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-100 / HDI Copolymer).

[0156] According to another embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether may be used which may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.

[0157] Aculyn 46® bearing the INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer). Aculyn 44® (PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer) is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-15O / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer).

[0158] As associative polyurethanes, it may be preferable to use a compound represented by the following formula (1):

[0159] R1—{(O-R2)k—OCONH—R3[—NHCOO-(R4—O)n—R5 ]h]m (1)

[0160] wherein R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, R2 and R4 independently represent alkylene groups having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, which alkylene groups may be the same as or different from each other, or a phenylethylene group, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group, which may optionally have a urethane linkage, R5 represents a branched chain or secondary hydrocarbon group, "m" represents a number of at least 2, "h" represents a number of at least 1, "k" represents a number in the range of 1 to 500, and "n" represents a number in the range of 1 to 200.

[0161] The hydrophobically modified polyurethane represented by the general formula (1) shown above is obtained, for example, by reacting at least one polyether polyol which is represented by the formula R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH]m, at least one polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3—(NCO)h+i, and at least one polymonoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO—(R4—O)n—R5. In such cases, R1 to R 5 in the general formula (1) are determined by the compounds R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH]m, R3—(NCO)h+i and HO—(R4—O)n—R5. The charge ratios among the three compounds are not particularly limited and should preferably be such that the ratio of the isocyanate group derived from the polyisocyanate to the hydroxyl group derived from the polyether polyol and the polyether monoalcohol is selected from the NCO / OH range of 0.8:1 to 1.4:1.

[0162] The polyol polyether compound which is represented by the formula R1 —[(O-R2)k—OH]m and which can be preferentially used to obtain the associative thickener represented by general formula (1) can be obtained by addition polymerization of an m-hydric polyol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide, or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.

[0163] The polyols should preferably be di- to octahydric polyols. Examples of di- to octahydric polyols include dihydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol and neopentyl glycol; trihydric alcohols, such as glycerol, trioxy isobutane, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,3-pentanetriol, 2-methyl-1,2,3-propanetriol, 2-methyl-2,3,4-butanetriol, 2-ethyl-1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-hexanetriol, 4-propyl-3,4,5-heptanetriol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,3,4-pentanetriol, pentamethylglycerol, pentaglycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, trimethylolethane and trimethylolpropane; tetrahydric alcohols, such as pentae- erythritol, 1,2,3,4-pentanetetrol, 2,3,4,5-hexanetetrol, 1,2,4,5-pentanetetrol and 1,3,4,5-hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols, such as adonitol, arabitol and xylitol; hexahydric alcohols, such as dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol and iditol; and octahydric alcohols, such as sucrose.

[0164] In addition, R2 is determined by alkylene oxide, styrene oxide or the like, which is subjected to addition. In particular, for availability and excellent effects, alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or styrene oxide is preferable.

[0165] The alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like to be subjected to addition may be subjected to single polymerization, or random polymerization, or block polymerization of at least two members. The addition procedure may be a conventional procedure. In addition, the degree of polymerization k may be selected from the range of 0 to 1000, preferably from the range of 1 to 500, and more preferably from the range of 10 to 200. Furthermore, the ratio of the ethylene group occupying R2 should preferably be in the range of 50 to 100% by mass relative to the total amount of R2. In such cases, the associative thickener suitable for the purposes of the present invention is obtained.

[0166] Furthermore, the molecular weight of the polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R1—[(O-R2)k—OH]m, should preferably be selected in the range of 500 to 100,000, and should more preferably be selected in the range of 1,000 to 50,000.

[0167] The polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3—(NCO)h+i and which can be preferentially used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not limited, particularly to the extent that the polyisocyanate has at least two isocyanate groups in the molecule. Examples of polyisocyanates include aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates, biphenyl diisocyanate, phenylmethane diisocyanate, phenylmethane triisocyanate and phenylmethane tetraisocyanate.

[0168] It is also possible to use dimers and trimers (isocyanurate bonds) of the polyisocyanates listed above. In addition, it is possible to use biuret obtained by reaction with an amine.

[0169] Furthermore, it is possible to use a polyisocyanate having a urethane bond obtained by reacting said polyisocyanate compound and a polyol. As the polyol, di- to octahydric polyols are preferable, and the polyols listed above are preferable. In cases where a trihydric or higher polyisocyanate is used as the polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3-(NCO)n+1, it is preferable to employ said polyisocyanate having the urethane bond.

[0170] The polyether monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO—(R4—O)n—R5 and which can be preferentially used to obtain the hydro-modified polyether urethane phobically represented by general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not limited, particularly to the extent that the polyether monoalcohol is a polyether of a straight chain, a branched chain or a secondary monohydric alcohol. The polyether monoalcohol can be obtained by addition polymerization of the straight chain, the branched chain or the secondary monohydric alcohol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.

[0171] The compound represented by general formula (1) can be produced, for example, by heating at a temperature of 80 to 90°C for 1 to 3 hours and thereby causing a reaction to occur in the same manner as that in the ordinary reaction of a polyether and an isocyanate.

[0172] As a compound represented by general formula (1), polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is preferable. Polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is also called PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer.

[0173] In various embodiments, it is preferable that the non-ionic associative polyurethane thickener is selected from the steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold by the company Rheox under the name Rheolate FX 1100, the PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer sold by the company Asahi Denka under the name Adekanol GT-700, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] The total amount of the one or more optional nonionic associative polymeric thickeners will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. (f) Surfactant or non-ionic emulsifiers

[0175] The leave-in finishing compositions may further include a surfactant or emulsifier such as a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier. The terms “nonionic surfactant” and “nonionic emulsifier” are used interchangeably in the present disclosure and may therefore be referred to as “nonionic emulsifying surfactants.” The nonionic surfactant or emulsifier may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or greater than or equal to 8. “HLB” refers to the “Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance” associated with the surfactants or emul non-ionic emulsifiers. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic groups in emulsifiers, as well as the solubility of the emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with lower HLB (such as those with HLB values ​​ranging from 1 to 7.9) are more soluble in oils (lipophilic material) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with higher HLB (such as those with HLB values ​​above 8) are more soluble in water (hydrophilic material) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifiers.

[0176] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, and optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] (1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferred Particularly used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

[0178] (2) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferred Particularly used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth 100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] (3) The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan which are preferred The most commonly used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85).

[0180] (4) The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan which are preferred Most commonly used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.

[0181] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkanolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. The fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides or fatty acid dialkanolamides or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a C2 x hydroxyalkyl group (the C2 x chain may be substituted with one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).

[0182] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (Cocamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (Cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, monoethanolamide coconut fatty acid, lauric monoethanolamide,lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (Myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA) and mixtures thereof.

[0183] In some cases, the fatty acid alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.

[0184] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: R4CNR5R6

[0185] where R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 may be, for example, chosen from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, corn fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);

[0186] R6 is chosen from -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof;

[0187] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH2OH, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof.

[0188] In some instances, the one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, torseoloyl methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.

[0189] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides having the following formula: R1-O-(R2O)nZ(x)

[0190] in which: • R1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; • R2 is an ethylene or propylene group; • Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms; • n is an integer from 0 to 10; and • x is an integer from 1 to 5.

[0191] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and coco glucoside. In some cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

[0192] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more various nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Ci0-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0193] Such non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

[0194] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably C[2-C22, fatty acid or acids, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C[2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100;sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and; their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol or alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0195] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.

[0196] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0197] As glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.

[0198] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0199] The total amount of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In other embodiments, the compositions include from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 0.2 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 to about 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (g) Non-silicone fatty compounds

[0200] The leave-in finishing compositions may further include a non-silicone fatty compound. The term "fatty compound" refers to an organic compound without silicone which is insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. which has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%. They have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0201] More particularly, the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds may be chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] Fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0203] With respect to C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

[0204] One animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.

[0205] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

[0206] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

[0207] The fluorinated oils can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, marketed under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, marketed under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl marketed under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholinic derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine marketed under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0208] The fatty alcohols which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) are fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, among which mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, or linoleyl alcohol.

[0209] The non-salified fatty acids which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) can be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

[0210] These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in the form of free acids and that the composition does not include any alkaline agent leading to their salification.

[0211] The esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetic composition used in step a) are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.Monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, palmitate. 2-ethylhexyl, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

[0212] Still in the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0213] Mention may also be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; pentaerythrityl glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates.

[0214] Among the above-mentioned esters, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isonanoate or cetyl octanoate.

[0215] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleostearate and palmitostearate. More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and, in particular, of mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0216] The non-silicone wax(es) which may be used in the composition used in step a) are chosen, in particular, from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as than the essential wax of blackcurrant flower marketed by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellin); other waxes or waxy starting materials which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as the product marketed by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

[0217] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.

[0218] The total amount of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds in the compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, or about 3 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. (h) Water-miscible solvents

[0219] The leave-in finishing composition may further include a water-soluble organic solvent. The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-soluble organic" and "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-8, C1-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.

[0220] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Examples Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C 1 -C 8 , or C 1 -C 8 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.

[0221] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, diethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and their mixture. ;

[0222] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Examples not limiting ones include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and their mixture.

[0223] Other examples of water-miscible solvents include glycerin ketal / acetal compounds. Glycerin ketal / acetal compounds include those

[0224] of formula (I):

[0225] wherein R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and are independently selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 alkenyl, C 1 -C 6 heteroalkyl, C 1 -C 6 heteroalkenyl, aryl, heteroaryl, C 3 -C 6 cycloalkyl, C 3 -C 6 hetero(C 3 -C 6)cycloalkyl, aryl, heteroaryl, optionally substituted; or R 1 and R 2 may together form C 3 -C 6 cycloalkyl, C 3 -C 6 heterocycloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, aryl or heteroaryl, optionally substituted;

[0226] in which the heteroatoms are chosen from N, O or S;

[0227] In some embodiments, at least one of R1 and R2 being C1-C1 alkyl 6 linear, branched or cyclic. Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently a linear C1-C6 alkyl, for example isopropylidene glycerol.

[0228] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure includes one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the leave-in finishing composition and / or the conditioning composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 20 wt.%, about 2 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 5 to about 20 wt.%, about 5 to about 15 wt.%, or about 5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be present in a concentration ranging from about 50 to about 98% by weight, or about 60 to about 98% by weight. (i) Miscellaneous ingredients

[0230] The compositions optionally include or exclude (or are substantially free of) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and novel properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, composition colorants, and mixtures thereof.In the context of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on the hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to impart coloring to the composition for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to the hair. Hair styling gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but application of the styling gel to the hair does not visibly change the color of the hair.

[0231] The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, or about 2 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. .

[0232] The leave-in finishing composition typically includes: • about 5 to about 20% by weight of a cyclic carbonate or carbonates; • about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more amino-silicones functionalized;

[0233] wherein (a) and (b) are in a weight ratio of about 12:1 to about 1:1 ((a):(b)); • about 0.1 to about 4% by weight of one or more polysaccharides; • about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more poly(ethylene glycol) thickeners non-ionic associative merics; • about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers; • optionally, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; • optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents; • about 60 to about 85% by weight of water;

[0234] wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the leave-in finishing composition.

[0235] The pH of the composition may vary. However, in various embodiments, a pH of less than 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. For example, the pH may be from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4.5, from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from about 3.5 to about 6, from about 3.5 to about 5.5, from about 3.5 to about 5, or from about 3.5 to about 4.5. Exclusions

[0236] Any components positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.

[0237] In various embodiments, one or more of the hair smoothing composition, the conditioning composition, and / or the leave-in finishing composition (hereinafter, "hair treatment composition(s)"), is / are free or essentially free of ethylene carbonate. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) is / are free or essentially free of carbonates other than the one or more cyclic carbonates. Also, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) is / are free or essentially free of linear carbonates, e.g., dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, etc. In various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cyclic lactones (e.g., valerolactone, caprolactone, pantolactone, meadowlactone, etc.), free or essentially free of heterocyclic molecules (e.g., 2-oxazolidinone, 2-imidazolidinone, etc.), free or essentially free of sulfones (dimethylsulfone, 2,3,4,5-tetrahydrothiophene-l,l-dioxide), and / or free or essentially free of ureas (e.g., urea, ethylene urea, etc.).

[0238] In still other embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) are free or essentially free of carbonates other than propylene carbonate.

[0239] In various embodiments, the leave-in finishing composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of cationic conditioning polymers. Therefore, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of polyquaternium compounds. In other embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants and cationic conditioning polymers.

[0240] In various embodiments, the leave-in hair treatment composition(s) is(are) free or essentially free of anionic surfactants.

[0241] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) is / are free or substantially free of polymers, copolymers, and crosslinked polymers formed with acrylate or methacrylate monomers, e.g., free or substantially free of polymers and crosslinked polymers of polyacrylic acid and polyacrylate.

[0242] In various embodiments, the leave-in hair treatment composition(s) is(are) free or essentially free of N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of any mercaptoacetamide.

[0243] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) is / are free or essentially free of fatty alcohols. In other embodiments, however, the composition includes one or more fatty alcohols, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably in an amount of about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition(s). Suitable fatty alcohols, if present, include those having a fatty group with a carbon chain of more than 8 carbon atoms, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. In some cases, the fatty group of fatty alcohols has a carbon chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols may be selected from polyethylene glycol ethers, such as those having a fatty alcohol group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0244] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) are free or essentially free of silicones other than one or more amino-functionalized silicones. Therefore, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of silicones other than amodimethicone.

[0245] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) is(are) free or essentially free of monosaccharides and disaccharides. For example, the composition is free or essentially free of ribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, xylose, sucrose and / or methyl glucoside.

[0246] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) are free or essentially free of formaldehyde, formaldehyde derivatives, formalin, and compounds that produce formaldehyde upon heating.

[0247] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition(s) are free or essentially free of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, or salts thereof. Methods of implementation

[0248] In various embodiments, the hair smoothing composition comprises or consists of:

[0249] (a) about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about

[0250] 10, more preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more keto acids, preferably one or more keto acids are selected from C2-C5 keto acids, more preferably wherein the one or more keto acids include glyoxylic acid and / or levulinic acid;

[0251] (b) about 40 to about 95% by weight of (water and water-miscible solvents); and

[0252] (c) optionally one or more of the following: fatty compounds, ten- non-silicone sioactives or emulsifiers, and / or miscellaneous ingredients; and wherein the hair smoothing composition has a pH of about 2.0 to about 5.0.

[0253] In various embodiments, the revitalizing composition comprises or consists of:

[0254] (a) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more polar fatty compounds, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight such as those having at least 8 carbon atoms;

[0255] (b) about 50 to about 95% by weight, of one or more water-miscible solvents, preferably chosen from one or more polyols, one or more monoalcohols, and combinations thereof; and

[0256] (c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, preferably one or more members selected from fatty amino-dioamines, quaternary amines and combinations thereof; wherein the revitalizing composition is anhydrous.

[0257] In various embodiments, the leave-in finishing composition comprises or consists of:

[0258] (a) about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 15, of more preferably about 8 to about 12% by weight of one or more cyclic carbonates, preferably one or more cyclic carbonates selected from propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, ethylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more cyclic carbonates include propylene carbonate or are propylene carbonate;

[0259] (b) about 1 to about 10 wt%, preferably about 2 to about 8, more preferably preferably about 3 to about 6% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone or are amodimethicone;

[0260] wherein (a) and (b) are in a weight ratio of 16:1 to 2:1 ((a):(b)), preferably from about 12:1 to about 1:1, more preferably from about 8:1 to about 3:1;

[0261] (c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more polysaccharides, preferably one or more polysaccharides selected from starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified celluloses and a mixture thereof, more preferably the one or more polysaccharides being selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives and a mixture thereof, in particular sclerotium gum;

[0262] (d) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners, preferably wherein the one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners are selected from polyurethane thickeners, for example, polyurethane / polyether thickeners, more preferably wherein the one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners are selected from bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether of PEG-240 / HDI copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof, in particular, bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether of PEG-240 / HDI copolymer;

[0263] (e) about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers, preferably wherein the one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers are selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides and mixtures thereof, for example, one or more poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl or polyalkyl ethers containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200, in particular, selected from laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40,steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, or mixtures thereof;

[0264] (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, preferably the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds being selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof, more preferably the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds comprising or consisting of one or more linear or branched alkanes, oils or a mixture thereof;

[0265] (g) optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, mono C1-C6 alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more solvents in water are selected from glycerin, glycols (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof;

[0266] (h) about 60 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 65 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 70 to about 80% by weight of water;

[0267] (i) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids (e.g., taurine), botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, particular materials, etc.), emollients, composition colorants, or a mixture thereof;

[0268] wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the leave-in finishing composition. Example 1 (Hair smoothing composition)

[0269] An example of a hair smoothing composition is shown below in Table 1. Hair Smoothing Composition HCl INCI Name % by weight GLYOXYLIC ACID 7 LEVULINIC ACID SODIUM LEVULINATE 2 GLYCERIN 5 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 8 BETAINE 1 SURFACTANT 2,5 ALCOHOL 3,5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL, STEARETH-2 5 POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 2 WATER / AQUA QS Example 2 (Revitalizing compositions)

[0271] An example of a Revitalizing Composition is shown below in the Table 2. A Comparative Revitalization Composition is shown in Table 3.

[0272] [Tables2] Revitalizing composition: Anhydrous with polar fatty compound, cationic surfactant and water miscible solvent CCI INCI Name % by weight CETYL ALCOHOL 2 ISOPROPYLIDENE GLYCEROL 20 STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIME-THYLAMINE 1,2 OLEIC ACID 1 PROPYLENE GLYCOL QS Revitalization composition: Comparative CC2 (c) BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.4 CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.05 (d) TRIDECETH-5 0.9 TRIDECETH-10 0.2 TRIDECETH-6 0.2 GLYCERYL LINOLENATE 0.002 GLYCERYL OLEATE 0.04 GLYCERYL LINOLEATE 0.06 SAFFLOWER GLUCOSIDE 0.01 (e) CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6 (f) AMODIMETHICONE 4.8 (g) GLYCERIN 2.5 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 0.1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.5 (i) CETYL ESTERS 1.5 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 0.01 0) HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM HY- DROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 0.1 (k) MISCELLANEOUS* (Fillers, pH adjusters, preservatives, botanical extracts, fragrances, buffers, stabilizers, vitamins and / or emollients, etc.) <5 (h) WATER 75 Example 3 (Leave-in finishing compositions)

[0274] Four Leave-In Finishing Compositions are shown below in Table 4. Inventive Comparative LOF1 LOF2 LOF3 LOF4 (a) PROPYLENE CARBONATE 10 10 (b) AMODIMETHICONE 2.8 2.8 Ratio (a):(b) 3.6:1 (c) SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (d) PEG-240 / HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH -20 ETHER 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 (e) TRIDECETH-10 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 TRIDECETH-5 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 (f) ISONONYL ISO- NONANOATE 3 3 3 3 UNDECANE 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 TRIDECANE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 0.00003 0.00003 0.00003 0.00003 (g) BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 GLYCERIN 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 (i) MISCELLANEOUS* (Preservatives, perfumes, buffers, pH regulators, composition colorants, plant extracts, emollients, fillers, humectants and / or vitamins, etc.) <5 <5 <5 <5 (h) WATER qs qs qs qs PH 4.5 to 5.5 4.5 to 5.5 4.5 to 5.5 Viscosity (25°C) 1000-130 OcSt 1 400-1 6 00 cSt 1 400-1 6 00 cSt

[0276] * phenoxyethanol, tocopherol, sodium citrate, acetic acid, hydroxide sodium, potassium laurate Example 4 (Essays)

[0277] Five different routines were evaluated for their effects on the cosmetic attributes of the hair. The routines were performed using strands of medium bleached curly hair (with Mizani curl pattern, CP 4). The strands were initially cleansed with a conventional sulfated shampoo (containing water, surfactants, and other ingredients typically found in shampoos) to normalize all strands before each routine. After cleansing the hair strands, they were rinsed, allowed to dry, and subjected to the following routines:

[0278] The specific compositions applied to the hair are shown in the table below:

[0279] [Tables5] Shampoo Routine Hair Smoothing Composition Revitalizing Composition Leave-in Finishing Composition A (Comparison) Classic Shampoo — — — B (Comparison) Classic Shampoo HS1 CC2 LOF4 C (Comparison) Classic Shampoo HS1 CCI LOF2 D (Comparison) Classic Shampoo HS1 CCI LOF3 E (Inventive) Classic Shampoo HS1 CCI LOF1 1. For each of the five routines, except Routine A, the hair strands were treated with an HCl hair straightening composition described above in Example 1. Keto acids such as glyoxylic acid provide semi-permanent hair straightening without breaking the cystine disulfide bond. It provides long-lasting straightening effects to the fibers ca pills, without damaging the hair and irritating the scalp. The hair smoothing composition was applied to strands of damp hair, massaged into the hair fibers and left on the hair for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, the hair smoothing composition was rinsed from the hair strands. The contents of the hair smoothing composition are shown in the table below. 2. Again, with the exception of Routine A, the hair strands were then treated with a conditioning composition that deposits a conditioning film on the hair fiber. Depending on the routine, the conditioning composition was CCI or CC2, as shown in Table 5. The conditioning composition was applied to damp hair strands, massaged into the hair strands, and immediately rinsed from the hair and towel-dried. 3. The hair strands were then treated with one of the leave-in finishing compositions from Table 4 (LOF 1, 2, 3, or 4). The leave-in finishing compositions were massaged individually into hair strands and left on the hair. These compositions were not rinsed from the hair. 4. After applying the leave-in finishing compositions, the hair strands were blow-dried 100% and treated with a flat iron at a temperature of 200°C. The hot iron was passed over the hair strands three times. 5. The hair strands were then washed with a standard shampoo and conditioned with a standard conditioner. The shampoo-conditioner cycle was performed 12 consecutive times.

[0280] The hair strands subjected to the above routine were compared with each other. Untreated strands were used as a baseline. As a control, the hair strands were blow-dried and treated with a hot iron at a temperature of 200°C (3 passes), but were not subjected to treatment with the hair smoothing composition and a conditioning rinse (routine “A”). The control strands were simply cleaned with the standard shampoo, blow-dried and treated with the hot iron.

[0281] Strands treated with Routine E showed by far the best fiber alignment, the lowest degree of frizz (best frizz control), and the greatest smooth texture, as illustrated in [Fig.l]. When the leave-in finishing composition lacked silicone (Comparative Routine C) or lacked propylene carbonate (Comparative Routine B), the degree of alignment, frizz reduction, and smooth texture were significantly and surprisingly lower.

[0282] The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments. However, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, consistent with the above teachings and / or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be construed to include other embodiments.

[0283] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

[0284] The terms "a," "an," "the," and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular. Thus, the expression "a mixture of" also relates to "mixtures of." Throughout the disclosure, the expression "their mixture" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and their mixture." The expression "their mixture" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".

[0285] Similarly, the expression "their salt" also relates to "their salts". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, their salt, and a mixture thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

[0286] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

[0287] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0288] The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more."

[0289] Except in working examples, or if otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.

[0290] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

[0291] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat component. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat compound, a single compound will serve solely as the nonionic surfactant or emulsifier or solely as the fat component (the single compound does not serve as both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat component).

[0292] A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during application of the composition to the hair, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.

[0293] A "leave-in" product refers to a composition that is not rinsed and / or washed out of the hair after or during application of the composition to the hair. The composition remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout styling.

[0294] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc.

[0295] The composition of the present case optionally includes one or more surfactants and / or emulsifiers, for example, one or more nonionic, anionic, cationic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include salts of the surfactants and emulsifiers even if they are not not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as “their salt” or “their salts.” Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, may also form surfactant salts.

[0296] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, in some embodiments, "substantially free" or "essentially free" may refer to less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material. "Anhydrous" refers to the absence or substantial absence of water.

[0297] Any components positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.

[0298] .

Claims

Claims

1. A method of treating hair comprising: (i) applying a hair smoothing composition comprising (a) at least one keto acid to the hair, leaving the composition on the hair, and rinsing the smoothing composition from the hair; (ii) applying a conditioning composition to the hair, leaving the conditioning composition on the hair, and rinsing the conditioning composition from the hair; the conditioning composition comprising: (a) one or more polar fatty compounds; (b) one or more water-miscible solvents; and (c) one or more cationic surfactants; wherein the conditioning composition is substantially free of water; and (iii) applying a leave-in finishing composition to the hair; the leave-in finishing composition comprising: (a) one or more cyclic carbonates; (b) one or more aminosilicones; and (c) water.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the hair smoothing composition remains on the hair for about 1 minute to about 30 minutes before being rinsed from the hair.

3. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the leave-in finishing composition has a pH of about 2 to about 6, preferably about 2 to about 5.

4. A method according to any preceding claim, further comprising: (iv) after applying the leave-in finishing composition to the hair, drying the hair and styling the hair wherein the styling comprises contacting the hair with a hot iron that has a temperature of about 150°C to about 240°C.

5. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the keto acid is selected from glyoxylic acid, levulinic acid and combinations thereof.

6. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the hair smoothing composition further comprises: (b) about 2 to about 20% by weight of one or more fatty compounds non-silicone comprising; (b)(i) about 2 to about 12% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols; and (b)(ii) optionally, about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more additional fatty compounds; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the hair smoothing composition.

7. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the hair smoothing composition comprises: (a) about 2 to about 15% by weight of one or more keto acids comprising: (a)(i) about 1 to 10% by weight of glyoxylic acid; and (a)(ii) about 1 to about 5% by weight of levulinic acid; and (b) about 2 to about 20% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds comprising; (b)(i) about 2 to about 12% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols; and (b)(ii) optionally, about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more additional fatty compounds; (c) about 0.5 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers; and (d) about 40 to about 80% by weight of water; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the hair straightening composition.

8. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the conditioning composition comprises: (a) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols; (b) about 50 to about 95% by weight of one or more water-miscible solvents; (c) about 0.2 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the conditioning composition.

9. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the leave-in finishing composition comprises: (a) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more cyclic carbonates; (b) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more silicones amino-functionalized; (c) about 60 to about 85% by weight of water; (d) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more nonionic polymeric thickeners; (e) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more polysaccharides; and (f) about 0.2 to about 10% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the leave-in finishing composition.

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