Methods for reducing frizz and improving smooth hair texture
The use of acyclic carbonate esters and a heat treatment process in a hair treatment composition addresses the challenge of reducing frizz and improving smoothness, achieving long-lasting benefits and environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023010308
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-09-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments fail to effectively reduce frizz and improve smoothness while being environmentally friendly, and many chemical treatments cause damage to hair.
A hair treatment composition containing acyclic carbonate esters with C6-C18 fatty chains and a heat treatment process to enhance fiber alignment, using silicones, film-forming polymers, and polysaccharides to improve smoothness and reduce frizz.
The method provides long-lasting improvements in fiber alignment, frizz control, and smooth texture, maintaining cosmetic benefits even after multiple wash cycles, while being environmentally friendly.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Methods for reducing frizz and improving smooth texture of hair SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE
[0001] The present disclosure relates to methods of reducing frizz and increasing smoothness of hair requiring reduced frizz or increased smoothness. Hair is treated with a rinse-out hair treatment composition and then treated with a heat treatment. Treatment with the compositions provides the hair with improved fiber alignment, frizz control, and smoothness. CONTEXT
[0002] Many consumers wish to use cosmetic and care compositions that enhance the appearance of the hair, for example, by changing the color, style and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. Hair can become dry or damaged for a variety of reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing the hair), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc. Even cleansing shampoos can strip the hair of its natural oils, causing dryness, which can lead to a dull appearance and split ends.
[0003] Chemical hair treatments include bleaching and coloring treatments to change the color of the hair. Chemical treatments also include processes to permanently change the shape and structure of the hair, for example, by perming, waving, relaxing, or straightening the hair. These chemical treatments often alter the appearance of the hair by changing its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of damage to the hair. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts.
[0004] The popularity and use of oils for hair treatment has increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Commonly used oils include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can make hair greasy. Furthermore, effects are usually not seen until several hours (e.g., 8 hours) of treatment, and multiple treatments are ha- necessarily necessary, which makes the treatment time-consuming and laborious.
[0005] Hair damage results in split ends, dryness, easily crunched hair, and hair that becomes "frizzy" and difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair is dead, it cannot regenerate itself. Many over-the-counter and salon treatments are claimed to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments provide little improvement to the hair. Therefore, hair treatment technologies that can straighten, relax, or style hair without chemically damaging it are desired.
[0006] There is a need to improve the manageability of hair, for example, to improve hair alignment, to reduce unwanted volume (particularly a reduction in frizz), and to increase shine.
[0007] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to provide more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE
[0008] The present disclosure relates to methods for improving the appearance, feel, and manageability of hair. In particular, the methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart a smooth texture to the hair. Treated hair is soft, shiny, conditioned, and has a healthy appearance. The methods utilize a hair treatment composition containing at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains, which may undergo a reaction when subjected to heat treatment. For example, heat from a hot iron activates a crosslinking or other modification reaction with the amine groups of the hair fibers. Without wishing to make any particular theory, the inventors believe that the methods result in grafting a fatty alkyl chain to the surface and / or N,N'-disubstituted urea bonds with the keratinous fibers of the hair.In addition, the enhanced cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting and maintained even after multiple wash cycles.
[0009] The methods of the present disclosure are generally used to reduce frizz or increase smoothness of hair by:
[0010] (i) applying a hair treatment composition to hair born requiring a reduction in frizz or an increase in softness; the composition comprising:
[0011] (a) about 5 to about 50% by weight of at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains; and
[0012] (b) a liquid vehicle,
[0013] wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition;
[0014] (ii) subjecting the hair to a heat treatment, wherein the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C.
[0015] In various embodiments, after applying the hair treatment composition, the hair is dried after rinsing the hair treatment composition, for example, using a hair dryer. Most hair dryers reach a maximum temperature of about 90°C to about 120°C. Therefore, once the hair is dried, it may be treated with a hot iron (preferably a flat iron) or other heat treatment at a temperature of about 150°C to about 280°C. A hot iron may be passed over the hair one or more times.
[0016] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more silicones. Silicones can protect hair from damage caused by heat styling tools such as hair dryers and hot irons. The slicked-back, glossy texture of silicones also helps impart softness and smoothness to the hair. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more silicones is an amino-functionalized silicone. Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a combination thereof.
[0017] Film-forming polymers may also be incorporated into the hair treatment composition. The film-forming polymers may provide additional heat protection to the hair and simultaneously function to "preserve" the shape and style of the hair. In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more film-forming polymers selected from anionic film-forming polymers, nonionic film-forming polymers, amphoteric film-forming polymers, or a combination thereof.
[0018] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes a or more polysaccharides, for example, one or more polysaccharides selected from starches, gums and cellulose-based polymers, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more polysaccharides are selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives, and a mixture thereof.
[0019] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more nonionic associative polymeric thickeners. A non-limiting but useful class of nonionic associative polymeric thickeners includes polyurethane thickeners, for example, polyurethane / polyether thickeners. Non-limiting examples of polyurethane / polyether thickeners include bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether of PEG-240 / HDI copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof.
[0020] In various embodiments, one or more emulsifiers may also be included. A non-limiting but useful class of emulsifiers are such non-ionic emulsifiers. The non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or greater than or equal to 8. Non-limiting examples include polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants.
[0021] Hair treated according to the methods disclosed herein exhibits improved fiber alignment, improved frizz control, and improved smooth texture. These desirable cosmetic attributes are long-lasting and are maintained even after multiple wash cycles. Brief description of the drawings
[0022] An implementation of the present technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figure, in which:
[0023] Figure [Fig.l] shows strands of hair treated according to the methods of the present disclosure and compares them to strands of hair not treated according to the methods of the present disclosure.
[0024] Figure [Fig.2] shows other strands of hair not treated according to methods of the present disclosure.
[0025] The various aspects of the disclosure are not limited to the results, arrangements and representations shown in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0026] The present disclosure relates to methods for treating hair, particularly hair in need of reduced frizz and improved softness. This is achieved by using a hair treatment composition that includes at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains. The inventors believe that at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains undergoes a reaction when subjected to heat treatment. For example, heat may activate a reaction with the carbonate and amine groups of hair fibers, resulting in the grafting of a fatty alkyl chain onto the hair or the likely formation of an N,N'-disubstituted urea bond that contributes to long-lasting benefits. The methods are gentle, long-lasting, and reduce hair frizz while simultaneously improving smooth texture. The methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart smooth texture to a surprising degree. The longevity of the improved fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and smooth texture is also significant and surprising.Hair treated in accordance with the processes described here retains these desirable cosmetic properties, even after multiple cleaning cycles. Thus, the benefits provided by the compositions are surprisingly long-lasting and resistant to washing.
[0027] Methods in accordance with the present disclosure typically comprise:
[0028] (i) applying a hair treatment composition to hair ne requiring a reduction in frizz or an increase in softness; the composition comprising:
[0029] (a) about 5 to about 50% by weight of at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains; and
[0030] (b) a liquid vehicle,
[0031] in which
[0032] all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition;
[0033] (ii) subjecting the hair to a heat treatment, wherein the treatment thermal heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C, where the heat treatment is carried out after possibly rinsing the treatment composition from the hair.
[0034] (a) Acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of fatty chains in C6-C18
[0035] Acyclic carbonate esters are esters of carbonic acid and have the general structure ROC(=O)-O-R'. The groups R and R' are each independently or include an acyclic hydrocarbon chain such as six to eighteen carbon atoms, such as eight to fifteen carbon atoms. In some embodiments, the acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains is dicaprylyl carbonate. The hair treatment composition of the present disclosure typically includes about 5 to about 15 wt. % of acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition hair includes about 5 to about 50% by weight, about 10 to about 50% by weight, 15 to about 50% by weight, about 8 to about 12% by weight, about 8 to about 15% by weight, about 5 to about 12% by weight, or about 5 to about 10% by weight of the at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains.
[0036] The hair treatment composition may be free or substantially free of carbonate esters other than the at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains. Further, the hair treatment composition may be free or substantially free of N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide. (b) Liquid vehicle
[0037] The hair treatment composition includes a liquid vehicle. The liquid vehicle may include or consist of an ingredient selected from water, a water-soluble organic solvent, a silicone (oil), a hydrocarbon oil, and combinations thereof. Descriptions of water-soluble organic solvent, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils are provided herein. Although one skilled in the art will recognize that options are suitable for use as a component of the liquid vehicle, some suitable examples are provided herein. The water-soluble organic solvent may be a monohydric alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol. The monohydric alcohol may be a C2-C4 monohydric alcohol. The polyhydric alcohol may be glycerin or a glycol such as propylene, butylene, or hexylene glycol. The liquid silicone may be a dimethicone or dimethiconol.The hydrocarbon oil may be an alkane and an ester such as isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate or other cosmetic esters, and the like.
[0038] For example, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 50 to about 90% by weight of liquid carrier, based on a total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 60 to about 90% by weight, about 70 to about 90% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 70 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, about 70 to about 80% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the liquid carrier is water. (c) Silicones
[0039] Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl-amodi-methicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In various embodiments, one or more of the Several silicones are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2 / s) and / or containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.
[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, and preferably dimethicone.
[0041] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more amino-functionalized silicones. The term "amino-functionalized silicone" or the term "aminosilicones" refers to a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functionalized silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group may be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g., in the case of amodimethicones) and / or in the side chain.
[0042] In some cases, an amino-functional silicone is selected from the compounds having the following formula:
[0043] in which: • each RI is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a C1-30 alkaryl group, a C1-30 alkoxyaryl group, and a hydroxy group (preferably, each RI is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, and a hydroxy group); • each R2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms); • each R3 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group and a C1-10 alkaryl group (preferably, each R3 is independently selected from one of a C1-30 alkyl group); • Q is a monovalent radical chosen from -NR42 and -NR4(CH2)ANR42; • each R4 is independently selected from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl; • x is 2 to 6; • z is 0 or 1; • n is 25 to 3,000 (preferably 25 to 2,000; more preferably 25 to 1,000; most preferably 25 to 500); and • m is 0 to 3,000 (preferably, 0 to 2,000; more preferably, 0 to 1000; most preferably 0 to 100);
[0044] provided that at least 50 mol% of the total number of groups R1 and R3 are methyl and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.
[0045] Preferred R1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydroxy. Preferred divalent alkylene radicals R2 include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2 and CH2CH2CH(CH3)CH2.
[0046] Preferred R3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, and tolyl. Preferred R4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functionalized silicone has only pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functionalized silicone may have only terminal amine functional substituents (e.g., m = 0) or may have both terminal and pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain (e.g., m > 0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1,000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m
[0047] is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250. In some cases, the amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones. Suitable alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated amino silicones may be selected from compounds of the following formula: R3 ^H3 If- CH3 (^H3 OSi- ch3 R3
[0048]
[0049]
[0050] in which R3 is hydroxyl or OR5, R5 is a C1-C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group having a structure according to the following formula: - CH2 CH CH2 NH (CH2)n NH2 ' r6 R6 is CrC4 alkyl, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as “n” described above, and y is the same as “m” described above. The silicone can be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula:
[0051] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;
[0052] b) amino silicones corresponding to the following formula:
[0053] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a
[0054] in which: • G, which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or a Cr-C8 alkyl group, for example a methyl, or a Cr-C8 alkoxy, for example a methoxy, • a, which may be the same or different, designates the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; • m and n are numbers so that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups:
[0055] -NR"-QN(R")2
[0056] -N(R”)2
[0057] -N+(R")3 A-
[0058] -N+H(R")2 A-
[0059] -N+H2(R") A-
[0060] -N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A- [0061 ] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A-
[0062] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-,
[0063] in which R", which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as a fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0064] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formula: RF QH, CH, I Si--O —Si- CH, L CH3 CH, I ■ O—Si—r3 CH, O —Yes — (CKk j ^3 NH NH., S-
[0065]
[0066] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Ri, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical. The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
[0067] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula: CH- CH, rr Si--O — Si- II ch, ch3 CH, O—Si— (çh2), nh I (CH,), N H. Z
[0068] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can designate a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Rb R2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical.
[0069] The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly, is equal to 1:0.95.
[0070] Another amino silicone group is represented by the following formula: CH3 HO-—Si-I CH, ' J CH, O—Si—OH CH,
[0071] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0072] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
[0073] Another amino silicone group is represented by the following formula:
[0074] in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0075]
[0076] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000. Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula: R,—CH„—CHOH—CHÇ— N* (RU,. O il Z (R5)3—Si—O If—O I Rs R_ r Si—O A. -CHOH If ■Sr (H)
[0077]
[0078] in which: R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example a methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (e.g. acetate); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8 ; s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such amino silicones are described more particularly in the patent US 4,185,087.
[0079] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:
[0080] in which: • R7, which may be identical or different, represent a hy radical monovalent carbon containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a nucleus containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example a methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C18, linked to Si via an SiC bond; • R8, which may be the same or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7x radical; • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example an acetate); • r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974.
[0081] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:
[0082] in which: • Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a radical C1-C4 alkyl or a phenyl group; • R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
[0083] and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g; • multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of the (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
[0084] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units having the following general formulas:
[0085] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]
[0086] or alternatively
[0087] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]
[0088] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000; • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; • R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; • R', which can be the same or different, represent a hy radical linear or branched C2-C12 divalent carbon atom, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0089] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
[0090] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
[0091] Non-limiting examples of amino-functional silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones and a combination thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the above structure, also known as "Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone" and “3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, terminated [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]”. Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trademark DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from the Dow Chemical Company. A particularly preferred amino-functional silicone is amodimethicone. A non-limiting example of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. Additionally or alternatively, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, even more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000 and most preferably from 10,000 to 50,000.
[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In other preferred embodiments, the amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone.
[0093] The total amount of the one or more silicones in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more silicones, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, or about 3 to about 6% by weight or about 3 to about 5% by weight of the one or more silicones, based on the weight of the composition.
[0094] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include one or more amino-functionalized silicones. In other embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more amino-functionalized silicones and are free or essentially free of other silicones, i.e., the composition is free or essentially free of silicones other than the one or more amino-functionalized silicones. In additional embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes amodimethicone and is free or essentially free of silicones other than amodimethicone.
[0095] The total amount of one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include from about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, from about 1 to about 10 wt%, from about 1 to about 8 wt%, from about 1 to about 6 wt%, from about 1 to about 5 wt%, from about 2 to about 10 wt%, from about 2 to about 8 wt%, from about 2 to about 6 wt%, from about 2 to about 5 wt%, from about 3 to about 10 wt%, from about 3 to about 8 wt%, or from about 3 to about 6 wt% or from about 3 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. (d) (Film-forming polymers)
[0096] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure optionally include one or more film-forming polymers, for example, one or more film-forming polymers selected from cationic film-forming polymers, anionic film-forming polymers, non-ionic film-forming polymers, amphoteric film-forming polymers, or a combination thereof.
[0097] Various types of film-forming polymers overlap with the scope of the one or more polysaccharides (component (e)) and the one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners (component (f)). Indeed, various film-forming polymers, polysaccharides and non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners can contribute to the formation of films on the hair and provide a thickening effect to the hair treatment compositions.
[0098] In such cases where an overlap may exist and where the treatment composition hair treatment composition includes two or more overlapping components, a single compound does not represent more than one component. For example, if a hair treatment composition includes a film-forming polymer, a polysaccharide, and a non-ionic associative thickener, a single compound cannot act as all three components. Similarly, a single compound cannot simultaneously act as two components.
[0099] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more film-forming polymers. The term "hydrophilic film-forming polymer" is interchangeable with the term "aqueous film-forming polymer" and refers to polymers or copolymers that may be water-soluble or water-dispersible; anionic, cationic, or non-ionic; and crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They generally include polar groups such as hydroxyl, amide, amine, or ether groups, and other groups having a high affinity for water. In addition, they must provide good adhesive, bonding, film-forming, and water-swelling properties. Hydrophilic polymers are film-forming polymers capable of forming, by themselves or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film capable of adhering to a support, especially the skin.
[0100] Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic film-forming polymers include polyurethanes, vinyl polymers, natural polymers, latex polymers, vinylpyrrolidone (VP)-based polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] (i) Polyurethanes
[0102] The polyurethanes may be aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymers, polyurea-urethanes or polyurea copolymers, comprising, alone or as a mixture: at least one block of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester origin, and / or at least one branched or unbranched silicone block, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or at least one block comprising fluoro groups.
[0103] The film-forming polyurethanes which can be used in the invention can also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyls comprising labile hydrogens, which are modified by reaction with a dii-isocyanate and a difunctional organic compound (e.g. dihydroxy, diamino or hydroxyamino), also comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or alternatively a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0104] For the purpose of forming the polyurethane, monomers bearing an anionic group which can be used during the polycondensation which may be mentioned include dimethylolpropionic acid, trimellitic acid or a derivative such as the anhydride trimellitic acid, 3-sulfopentanediol sodium salt and 5-sulfo-1,3-benzenedicarboxylic acid salt of salt of salt. Preferably, the monomer bearing an anionic group is dimethylolpropionic acid.
[0105] As film-forming polyurethane which can be used according to the invention, mention may therefore be made of the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425® and Avalure UR-450® by the company Goodrich. A particularly preferred polyurethane is polyurethane-99.
[0106] Advantageously, the film-forming polyurethanes are chosen from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, adipic acid, hexamethylene diisocyanate, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminoethanesulfonic acid and ethylenediamine. Preferably, the polyurethanes may also be chosen from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of adipic acid, dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, ethylenediamine, hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and sodium N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminoethanesulfonate.
[0107] In particular, the polyurethanes are chosen from those sold under the name Baycusan eco E 1001, Baycusan C1001 or C1004, known as polyurethane-99, poly-urethane-35, and more particularly the product sold under the name Baycusan C1001, known as polyurethane-99.
[0108] (ii) Vinyl polymers
[0109] The vinyl polymers may be chosen from polyvinyl alcohols, copolymers derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides, and methyl vinyl ether / butyl monomaleate copolymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyvinyl alcohol" denotes a polymer comprising -CH2CH(OH)- units. Polyvinyl alcohols are generally produced by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate. Usually, the reaction occurs in the presence of methanol (alcoholysis). The reaction is normally catalyzed by acid or base catalysis. The degree of hydrolysis of commercial products is variable, often around 87%, but products with a degree of hydrolysis of 100 also exist. There are also copolymers with monomers other than vinyl acetate, such as ethylene / vinyl alcohol copolymers.
[0110] The polyvinyl alcohol polymers are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers with vinyl acetate, the latter corresponding in particular to a partial hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate.
[0111] For example, it is possible to use the products from the Celvol range supplied by the company Cenese under the names Celvol 540, Celvol 350, Celvol 325, Celvol 165, Celvol 125, Celvol 540 S, Celvol 840 and Celvol 443.
[0112] The copolymer(s) derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides may be chosen from copolymers comprising (i) one or several maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, and acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated, for example, INCI name: Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer. Preferably, the copolymer(s) derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides is / are selected from monoesterified copolymers of methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride, for example, the ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, sold under the name Gantrez ES 225 by the company ISP.
[0113] (iii) Natural polymers
[0114] The hydrophilic polymers may also be chosen from natural polymers, in particular polysaccharides which have monosaccharides or disaccharides as basic units. The natural polymers are preferably chosen from pullulan, guar gums and modified guar gums, celluloses and gellan gum, and their derivatives.
[0115] In a preferred embodiment, a natural hydrophilic film-forming polymer is pullulan. Pullulan is a polysaccharide polymer consisting of maltotriose units, also known as 'α-1,4-α1,6-glucan'. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected by an α-1,4 glycosidic linkage, while consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other by an α-1,6 glycosidic linkage. In various embodiments, the compositions include pullulan and optionally one or more additional hydrophilic film-forming polymers, e.g., one or more polyurethanes. In this situation, the amount of pullulan will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 1 to about 15% by weight of the pullulan, based on a total weight of the skin-perfecting composition.In other embodiments, the skin-perfecting composition includes from about 1 to about 15 wt. %, from about 1 to about 12 wt. %, from about 1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 1 to about 8 wt. %, from about 2 to about 15 wt. %, from about 2 to about 12 wt. %, from about 2 to about 10 wt. %, from about 2 to about 8 wt. %, from about 3 to about 15 wt. %, from about 3 to about 12 wt. %, from about 3 to about 10 wt. %, from about 3 to about 8 wt. %, based on the total weight of the skin-perfecting composition.
[0116] Guar gums are galactomannans consisting of mannose and galactose. As used herein, the term "modified guar gum" refers to guar gums alkylated with at least one C1-C8 alkyl group, guar gums hydroxyalkylated with at least one C1-C8 hydroxyalkyl group, and guar gums alkylated with at least one C1-C8 acyl group. Guar gums Hydroxypropyl esters (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar) such as the product sold under the name Jaguar HP 105 by the Rhodia company are a useful example.
[0117] Cellulose is a [31-4-polyacetal of cellobiose, cellobiose being a disaccharide consisting of two glucose molecules. Cellulose derivatives can be cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished. Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0118] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses. The quaternizing agent may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose. Among the cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
[0119] Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates. The cellulose-based compounds of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.
[0120] Celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the names MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon.
[0121] Gellan gum is a polysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of Sphingomonas elodea, more commonly known as Pseudomonas elodea. This linear polysaccharide is formed from the following monosaccharide sequence: D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L-rhamnose. In its native form, gellan gum is highly acylated. Gellan gum preferably used in the film according to the present invention is a gellan gum which is at least partially deacylated. This at least partially deacylated gellan gum is obtained by alkaline treatment at high temperature. For example, a KOH or NaOH solution will be used. The purified gellan gum sold under the trade name Kelcogel® by the company Kelco is suitable for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention.
[0122] Gellan gum derivatives are all products obtained by carrying out standard chemical reactions, in particular esterifications, the addition of a salt of an organic or mineral acid. Welan gum is for example used as a gellan gum derivative. Welan gum is a gellan gum modified by fermentation using the strain Alcaligenes ATCC 31 555. Welan gum has a recurring pentasaccharide structure formed by a main chain composed of D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L-rhamnose units, onto which a pendant L-rhamnose or L-mannose unit is grafted. Welan gum (diutan gum) sold under the trade name Kelco Crete® by the company Kelco is suitable for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention.
[0123] As other saccharide polymers which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of starches and their derivatives.
[0124] Natural hydrophilic film-forming polymers include celluloses and their derivatives, in particular those sold under the name Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers.
[0125] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by α(1,3) and β(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20% to 50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in 3,6-anhydro form.Depending on the number and position of sulfate ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which carry one sulfate ester group, iota-carrageenans, which carry two sulfate ester groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which carry three sulfate ester groups. Carrageenans are composed mainly of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts of polysaccharide sulfate esters.
[0126] Carrageenans are sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
[0127] Mention is made of hyaluronic acid and its salts, for example sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate. Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It is a long-chain glycosaminoglycan polymer of Na-glucuronate-N-acetylglucosamine disaccharide units.
[0128] A useful hydrophilic film-forming polymer is xanthan gum and modified xanthan gums, such as dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, dehydroxanthan gum is useful.
[0129] (iv) Latex or pseudolatex polymers
[0130] As presented above for hydrophilic film-forming polyurethanes, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer may therefore also be present in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, generally known as latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0131] Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers that may be used include acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® or Syntran PC 5100® by Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the brand name Joncryl® by Johnson Polymer, or aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Sancure 861®, Sancure 878® and Sancure 2060® by Goodrich, Impranil 85® by Bayer and Aquamere H-1511® by Hydromer;sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ® by Eastman Chemical Products, and vinyl dispersions, for example Mexomer PAM® from Chimex, and mixtures thereof.;
[0132] (v) Vinylpyrrolidone (VP) based polymers
[0133] Non-limiting examples of vinylpyrrolidone (VP)-based film-forming polymers include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP-styrene copolymer, VP-vinyl acetate copolymer, and VP-dimethylaminoethyl sulfate-methacrylic acid diethyl sulfate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0134] (vi) Amphoteric polymers
[0135] Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic film-forming polymers include amphoteric polymers. Non-limiting examples include polymetha-cryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, alkyl vinyl ether / anhydride copolymer maleic acid (AVE / MA), poly(2-aminopropyl acrylate), poly(diethylaminoethyl methacrylate), copolymers such as dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer and zwitterionic polymers such as polybetaines such as poly-2-ethynyl-N-(4-sulfobutyl)pyridinium betaine (PESPB), polysulfobetaines such as poly-N,N-dimethyl-N-3-sulfopropyl-3'methacrylamidopropanaminium copolymers and copolymers such as diallyldimethylammonium chloride-maleamic acid copolymers, or a combination thereof.
[0136] The amount of the one or more film-forming polymers in the hair treatment composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more film-forming polymers, based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition. In additional embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, or about 2 to about 5 wt%, based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition, (e) Polysaccharides
[0137] The term "polysaccharides" refers to compounds containing a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). The polysaccharides may be cationic, non-ionic, or anionic. In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferably non-ionic polysaccharides.
[0138] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include starches, gums, celluloses, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride (sold as Dry-Flo by National Starch), starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch.
[0139] Non-limiting examples of cellulose-based polymers include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful herein. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, prefers the CTFA designation material cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the trade name NATROSOL CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.
[0140] In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferentially selected from scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three units, a commercially available example of which is CLEAROGEL. CS1 1 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.
[0141] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] In various embodiments, the one or more polysaccharides are selected from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified or unmodified), wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof. In still other embodiments, the polysaccharide is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is sold under the trade name STRUCTURE ZEA by Akzo Nobel. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more polysaccharides is sclerotium gum.
[0143] The total amount of the one or more polysaccharides in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of the one or more polysaccharides, based on the total weight of the composition.In additional embodiments, the compositions include between about 0.1 and about 6 wt%, about 0.1 and about 5 wt%, about 0.1 and about 4 wt%, about 0.1 and about 3 wt%, about 0.1 and about 2 wt%, about 0.2 and about 8 wt%, about 0.2 and about 6 wt%, about 0.2 and about 5 wt%, about 0.2 and about 4 wt%, about 0.2 and about 3 wt%, about 0.2 and about 2 wt%, about 0.3 and about 8 wt%, about 0.3 and about 6 wt%, about 0.3 and about 5 wt%, about 0.3 and about 5 wt%, or about 0.3 and about 4 wt%, about 0.3 and about 3 wt%, or about 0.3 and about 2 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] (f) Non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners
[0145] An associative thickener is capable of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules or particles. This physical association provides thickening and can give rise to thixotropic or shear-thinning macromolecular systems, that is, systems whose viscosity depends on the shear forces to which they are subjected.
[0146] In various embodiments, the non-ionic associative polymer thickener is a non-ionic associative polyurethane thickener, preferably a non-ionic associative polyurethane / polyether. The non-ionic polyurethanes / polyethers may have both at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one hydrophobic moiety. More particularly, said polymers may contain in their chain both hydrophilic sequences, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic bonds alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic bonds. In various embodiments, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, knowing that the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence.In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.
[0147] Polyether polyurethanes may be polyblocks, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer carrying a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be in the form of graft units or be star-shaped.
[0148] Nonionic polyether / polyurethanes containing a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name. By extension, those whose hydrophilic blocks are linked by other chemical bonds to the hydrophobic blocks are also included among the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain.
[0149] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic polyethers / polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain include Rheolate® 205 containing a urea functional group sold by the company RHEOX or alternatively Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Other products include ELFACOS T210® containing an alkyl chain in C12-C14 and AKZO's ELFACOS T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain. ROHM & HAAS's DW 1206B® containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% solids in water, can also be used.
[0150] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of these polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J supplied by the company ROHM & HAAS.
[0151] As polyethers / polyurethanes described above, mention may be made of polyurethanes / polyethers comprising in their chain at least one polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic block and at least one of hydrophobic blocks containing at least one sequence chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences and aromatic sequences. In various embodiments, it is preferable for the polyurethanes / polyethers to comprise at least two lipophilic chains based on hydrocarbons having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, and in which the hydrocarbon-based chains are chosen from pendant chains and chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
[0152] In a preferred embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether is used which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a dii-isocyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are notably sold by the company Elément under the name Rheolate FX 1100® and Rheoluxe 811®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight average molecular weight of 40,000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-100 / HDI Copolymer).
[0153] According to another embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether will be used which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.
[0154] Aculyn 46® bearing the INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer). Aculyn 44® (PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer) is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer).
[0155] As associative polyurethanes, it may be preferable to use a compound represented by the following formula (1):
[0156] R1 -{(O-R2)k -OCONH-R3 [-NHCOO-(R4 -O)n -R5 ]h}m (1)
[0157] in which R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, R2 and R4 represent independent during alkylene groups having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, which alkylene groups may be the same as or different from each other, or a phenylethylene group, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group, which may optionally have a urethane linkage, R5 represents a branched chain or secondary hydrocarbon group, "m" represents a number of at least 2, "h" represents a number of at least 1, "k" represents a number in the range of 1 to 500, and "n" represents a number in the range of 1 to 200.
[0158] The hydrophobically modified polyurethane represented by the general formula (1) shown above is obtained, for example, by reacting at least one polyether polyol which is represented by the formula R1 -[(O-R2 )k -OH]m, at least one polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3 -(NCO) h+i, and at least one polymonoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO-(R4 -O)n -R5. In such cases, R1 to R5 in the general formula (1) are determined by the compounds R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH]m, R3—(NCO) h+i and HO—(R4—O)n—R5. The charge ratios among the three compounds are not particularly limited and should preferably be such that the ratio of the isocyanate group derived from the polyisocyanate to the hydroxyl group derived from the polyether polyol and the polyether monoalcohol is selected from the NCO / OH range of 0.8:1 to 1.4:1.
[0159] The polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula RI—[(O—R2)k—0H]m and which can be preferentially used to obtain the associative thickener represented by general formula (1) can be obtained by addition polymerization of an m-hydric polyol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide, or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.
[0160] The polyols should preferably be di- to octahydric polyols. Examples of di- to octahydric polyols include dihydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol and neopentyl glycol; trihydric alcohols, such as glycerol, trioxy isobutane, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,3-pentanetriol, 2-methyl-1,2,3-propanetriol, 2-methyl-2,3,4-butanetriol, 2-ethyl-1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-hexanetriol, 4-propyl-3,4,5-heptanetriol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,3,4-pentanetriol, penta-methylglycerol, pentaglycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, trimethylolethane, and trimethylolpropane; tetrahydric alcohols, such as pentaerythritol, 1,2,3,4-pentanetetrol, 2,3,4,5-hexanetetrol, 1,2,4,5-pentanetetrol, and 1,3,4,5-hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols, such as adonitol, arabitol, and xylitol; hexahydric alcohols, such as dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol and iditol; and octahydric alcohols, such as sucrose.
[0161] Also, R2 is determined by the alkylene oxide, styrene oxide or the like, which is subjected to addition. In particular, for availability and excellent effects, an alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or styrene oxide is preferable.
[0162] The alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like, to be subjected to addition may be subjected to single polymerization, or random polymerization, or block polymerization of at least two members. The addition procedure may be a conventional procedure. Also, the degree of polymerization k may be selected in the range of 0 to 1000, preferably in the range of 1 to 500, and more preferably in the range of 10 to 200. Furthermore, the ratio of the ethylene group occupying R2 should preferably be in the range of 50 to 100% by mass relative to the total amount of R2. In such cases, the associative thickener suitable for the purposes of the present invention is obtained.
[0163] Furthermore, the molecular weight of the polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH]m, should preferably be selected in the range of 500 to 100,000, and should more preferably be selected in the range of 1,000 to 50,000.
[0164] The polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3—(NCO)h+i and which can be preferentially used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not limited, particularly to the extent that the polyisocyanate has at least two isocyanate groups in the molecule. Examples of polyisocyanates include aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates, biphenyl diisocyanate, phenylmethane diisocyanate, phenylmethane triisocyanate and phenylmethane tetraisocyanate.
[0165] It is also possible to use dimers and trimers (isocyanuric bonds) of the polyisocyanates listed above. In addition, it is possible to use biuret obtained by reaction with an amine.
[0166] Furthermore, it is possible to use a polyisocyanate having a urethane bond obtained by reacting said polyisocyanate compound and a polyol. As the polyol, di- to octahydric polyols are preferable, and the polyols listed above are preferable. In cases where one or more trihydric polyisocyanates are used as the polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3—(NCO)n+l, it is preferable to use said polyisocyanate having the urethane linkage.
[0167] The polyether monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO—(R4—O)n—R5 and which can be preferably used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not limited, particularly to the extent that the polyether monoalcohol is a polyether of a straight chain, a branched chain or a secondary monohydric alcohol. The polyether monoalcohol can be obtained by addition polymerization of the straight chain, the branched chain or the secondary monohydric alcohol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.
[0168] The compound represented by general formula (1) can be produced, for example, by heating at a temperature of 80 to 90°C for 1 to 3 hours and thereby causing a reaction occurring in the same manner as that in the ordinary reaction of a polyether and an isocyanate.
[0169] As a compound represented by general formula (1), polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is preferable. Polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is also called PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer.
[0170] In various embodiments, it is preferable that the non-ionic associative polyurethane thickener is selected from the steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold by the company Rheox under the name Rheolate FX 1100, the PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer sold by the company Asahi Denka under the name Adekanol GT-700, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] The total amount of the nonionic associative polymeric thickener(s) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions, (g) Nonionic Surfactants or Emulsifiers
[0172] The terms “nonionic surfactant” and “nonionic emulsifier” are used interchangeably in the present disclosure and may therefore be referred to as “nonionic emulsifying surfactants”. The nonionic surfactant or emulsifier Ionic emulsifiers may have an HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or greater than or equal to 8. "HLB" refers to the "Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance" associated with nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic groups to lipophilic groups in emulsifiers, as well as the solubility of emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with lower HLB (such as those with HLB values ranging from 1 to 7.9) are more soluble in oils (lipophilic material) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with higher HLB (such as those with HLB values greater than 8) are more soluble in water (hydrophilic material) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.
[0173] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, and optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof. 1. The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferably used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples which may be mentioned are (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. 2. Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferred Particularly used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth- 100, beheneth 100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof. 3. The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan which are preferably used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples which may be mentioned are sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85). 4. The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan which are preferentially used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.
[0174] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkanolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. The fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides or fatty acid dialkanolamides or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a C2 x hydroxyalkyl group (the C2 x chain may be substituted with one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).
[0175] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (Cocamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (Cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, monoethanolamide coconut fatty acid, lauric monoethanolamide,lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (Myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA) and mixtures thereof.
[0176] In some cases, the fatty acid alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.
[0177] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: O
[0178] where R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 may be, for example, chosen from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, corn fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);
[0179] R6 is chosen from -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof;
[0180] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH2OH, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof.
[0181] In some instances, the one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, torseoloyl methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.
[0182] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides having the following formula: R1-O-(R2O)nZ(x)
[0183] Where R1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0184] R2 is an ethylene or propylene group;
[0185] Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0186] n is an integer from 0 to 10; and
[0187] x is an integer from 1 to 5.
[0188] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and coco glucoside. In some cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.
[0189] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more various nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0190] Such non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
[0191] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24 fatty alcohol or alcohols, preferably C12-C22; and mixtures thereof.
[0192] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
[0193] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.
[0194] As glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.
[0195] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
[0196] The total amount of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers in the compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, for example. relative to the total weight of the compositions. (h) Water-soluble organic solvents
[0197] The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-8, C1-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.
[0198] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C 1 -C 8 , or C 1 -C 8 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, di-propylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.
[0199] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, mono-n-propyl ether; propylene glycol, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, diethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and mixtures thereof.
[0200] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and mixtures thereof.
[0201] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0202] The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the composition, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the alkalizing composition includes about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, or about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (i) Non-silicone fatty compounds
[0203] The expression "fatty substance" designates an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), that is to say which has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%. They have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
[0204] More particularly, the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds may be chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.
[0205] Fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0206] With respect to C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
[0207] One animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.
[0208] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
[0209] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.
[0210] The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, marketed under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, marketed under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl marketed under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholinic derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine marketed under the name PF 5052® by the 3M company.
[0211] The fatty alcohols which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) are fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms among which we can cite, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
[0212] The non-salified fatty acids which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) can be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
[0213] These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in the form of free acids and that the composition does not include any alkaline agent leading to their salification.
[0214] The esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetic composition used in step a) are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10. Among the esters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; malate; dioctyl, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
[0215] Still in the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0216] Mention may also be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; pentaerythrityl glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates.
[0217] Among the above-mentioned esters, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isonanoate or cetyl octanoate.
[0218] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleostearate and palmitostearate. More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and, in particular, mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0219] The non-silicone wax(es) which may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, in particular, from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax marketed by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellin); other waxes or waxy starting materials which may be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as the product marketed by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
[0220] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.
[0221] The total amount of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds in the leave-on compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, or about 3 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. (j) Miscellaneous ingredients
[0222] The compositions optionally include or exclude (or are substantially free of) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and novel properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, composition colorants, and mixtures thereof.In the context of the present disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but has no appreciable coloring effect on the hair. In other words, the . The composition colorant is included to impart color to the composition for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to the hair. Hair styling gels, for example, can come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the styling gel to the hair does not visibly change the color of the hair.
[0223] The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, or about 2 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. . Exclusions
[0224] Any components positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.
[0225] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of ethylene carbonate. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of carbonate esters other than the at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains. Similarly, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cyclic carbonates, e.g., propylene carbonate, ethylene carbonate, etc. In various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cyclic lactones (e.g., valerolactone, caprolactone, pantolactone, mea-dowlactone, etc.), free or essentially free of heterocyclic molecules (e.g., 2-oxazolidinone, 2-imidazolidinone, etc.), free or essentially free of sulfones (dimethylsulfone, 2,3,4,5-tetrahydrothiophene-l,l-dioxide), and / or free or essentially free of ureas (e.g., urea, ethylene urea, etc.).
[0226] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants. In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of cationic conditioning polymers. Similarly, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of polyquaternium compounds. In other embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants and cationic conditioning polymers.
[0227] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of anionic surfactants.
[0228] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of polymers, copolymers and crosslinked polymers formed with acrylate or methacrylate monomers, e.g., free or essentially free of polymers and crosslinked polymers of polyacrylic acid and polyacrylate.
[0229] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide. In one embodiment, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of any mercaptoacetamide.
[0230] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of fatty alcohols. In other embodiments, however, the composition includes one or more fatty alcohols, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably in an amount of about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition. Suitable fatty alcohols include those having a fatty group with a carbon chain of more than 8 carbon atoms, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and sub-ranges therein. In some cases, the fatty group of fatty alcohols has a carbon chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms.The fatty alcohols may be selected from polyethylene glycol ethers, such as those having a fatty alcohol group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 2 to 14 carbon atoms.
[0231] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of one or more silicones other than amino-functionalized silicones. Also, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of silicones other than amodimethicone.
[0232] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of monosaccharides and disaccharides. For example, the composition is free or essentially free of ribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, xylose, sucrose and / or methyl glucoside.
[0233] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of formaldehyde, formaldehyde derivatives, formalin, and compounds that produce formaldehyde upon heating.
[0234] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of arabinose, keratin, peptides, or a mixture thereof. Methods of implementation
[0235] In various embodiments, the methods of the present disclosure relate to reducing frizz or increasing smoothness of hair comprising or consisting of:
[0236] (i) applying a hair treatment composition to hair born requiring a reduction in frizz or an increase in softness; the composition comprising or consisting of:
[0237] (a) about 5 to about 50% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight, of the at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains,
[0238] (b) about 50 to about 90% by weight, preferably about 55 to about 85% by weight, more preferably about 60 to about 80% by weight of liquid carrier;
[0239] (c) optionally, 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof, preferably wherein the one or more amino-functionalized silicones are amodimethicone;
[0240] (d) optionally, one or more film-forming polymers;
[0241] (e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more polysaccharides, preferably wherein the one or more polysaccharides are selected from starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified celluloses, or a mixture thereof, preferably one or more polysaccharides are chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives, and a mixture thereof;
[0242] (f) optionally from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 at about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners, preferably wherein the one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners are selected from polyurethane thickeners, preferably selected from polyurethane / polyether thickeners, for example, one or more polyurethane / polyether thickeners selected from bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether of PEG-240 / HDI copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof;
[0243] (g) optionally, about 0.2 to about 8 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactants or emulsifiers, preferably one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers, more preferably wherein the one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers are chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides and mixtures thereof, for example, one or more poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl or polyalkyl ethers containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200, in particular, chosen from laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12,oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30OE, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, or mixtures thereof; ,
[0244] (h) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, glycols (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof; and
[0245] (i) optionally, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, preferably wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds comprise or consist of one or more linear or branched alkanes, oils or a mixture thereof;
[0246] (j) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, particular materials, etc.), emollients, composition colorants, or a mixture thereof;
[0247] wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.
[0248] (ii) without rinsing the composition from the hair, subjecting the hair to a heat treatment, wherein the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C, preferably wherein the hair is treated with a hot iron, especially a flat iron, at a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C.
[0249] The methods of the present disclosure are particularly useful for treating human hair, particularly human hair (the top of the head as opposed to eyelashes, eyebrows, or facial hair). Treatment with the compositions improves fiber alignment, reduces frizz, and imparts a smooth texture to the hair. The hair is preferably wet or damp when the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure are applied. After massaging or spreading the hair treatment composition throughout the hair, and rinsing the hair treatment composition, the hair may be dried, for example, the hair may be dried using a hair dryer. Once the hair is dry, it may be thermally treated (treated with heat). For example, the hair may be treated with a hot iron, particularly a flat iron.The temperature of the flat iron can be from about 180°C to about 280°C. C, or from about 190°C to about 250°C. Typically, the hot iron is passed over the hair at least once, at least twice, at least three times, or more.
[0250] An implementation of the present disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. These examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. Example 1
[0251] Tests were carried out on a composition including an acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains, and a vehicle; as well as a control composition without the particular acyclic carbonate ester. The compositions and results are shown in Table 1 below. Images of the hair strands after treatment are also provided, in [Fig.l].
[0252] [Tables 1] Composition Initial application 2 h at 80% humidity After 3 shampoos 3 shampoos + 2 h at 80% humidity ABABABABAB Dicaprylyl carbonate 10 ethanol 90 100 Smooth texture 4 4 4 4 4 2 3 1 Softness 4 4 3 4 4 2 3 2 Alignment 5 4 3 2 4 2 3 1 Frizz control 5 4 3 1 4 2 2 1
[0253] A: Inventive
[0254] B: Comparison
[0255] Tests were conducted on strands of curly hair (medium bleached hair with a 2b curl pattern) to determine how the compositions in the table above affected the hair. All strands of hair were washed with the same standard shampoo. The shampoo was rinsed from the strands of hair and the strands of hair were towel dried. The wet strands of hair were then treated with one of the compositions shown in the table above (approximately 1 gram of composition per gram of hair). All compositions were left on the hair for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, the above compositions were rinsed from the strands of hair and the strands were blow-dried. After drying by After blow-drying the strands, the strands were treated with a hot flat iron at a temperature of approximately 232°C. The hair was passed through the hot iron three times, rinsed, and air-dried to restore its curly nature. After treatment, the strands were visually assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment, and frizz control on a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 is consistent with poor performance and 5 is consistent with excellent performance. The strands were then placed in a humidity chamber with a humidity of 80% and a temperature of 25°C for two hours. After two hours, the strands were again visually assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment, and frizz control on a scale of 1 to 5.The strands were then washed with the same standard shampoo for 3 times, then air-dried and again assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment and frizz control on a scale of 1 to 5. The strands were then placed in a humidity chamber with 80% humidity and 25°C for two hours. After two hours, the strands were again visually assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment and frizz control on a scale of 1 to 5. The invented treatment (B) gave the hair long-lasting smoothness and frizz control compared to the control (A). Example 2
[0256] Additional tests were carried out on compositions including other carbonate esters and a dialkyl ester compound that is not a carbonate ester, similarly to Example 1. The compositions and results are shown in Table 2 below. Images are provided in [Fig.2].
[0257]
[0258]
[0259]
[0260]
[0261]
[0262] [Tables 2] Composition Initial application 2 h at 80% humidity After 3 shampoos 3 shampoos + 2 h at 80% humidity ABCABCABCABCABC Dimethyl carbonate 10 Diethyl carbonate 10 Neopentyl glycol dicaprate 10 Ethanol 90 90 90 Smooth texture 2 2 4 2 2 3 3 3 3 1 2 3 Softness 2 2 3 2 2 2 3 2 3 2 2 2 Alignment 3 3 3 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 Frizz control 3 3 3 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 A: Comparison B: Comparison C: Comparison It is noted that the composition with an acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains (in Example 1) has a considerably superior performance to the comparative examples. The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. In addition, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments. However, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is suitable for use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is suitable for changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, consistent with the above teachings and / or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be construed to include other embodiments.
[0263] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.
[0264] The terms "a," "an," "the," and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular. Thus, the expression "a mixture of" also relates to "mixtures of." Throughout the disclosure, the expression "their mixture" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and their mixture." The expression "their mixture" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".
[0265] Similarly, the expression "their salt" also relates to "their salts". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, their salt, and a mixture thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.
[0266] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.
[0267] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0268] The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more."
[0269] Except in the working examples, or if otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number noted.
[0270] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.
[0271] Some of the various identified component categories may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat component. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat compound, a single compound will serve solely as the nonionic surfactant or emulsifier or solely as the fat component (the single compound does not serve as both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fat component).
[0272] A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during application of the composition to the hair, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.
[0273] A "leave-in" product refers to a composition that is not rinsed and / or washed out of the hair after or during application of the composition to the hair. The composition remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout styling.
[0274] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc.
[0275] The composition of the present case optionally includes one or more surfactants and / or emulsifiers, e.g., one or more nonionic, anionic, cationic, and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include salts of the surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that salts also be encompassed to the extent such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), e.g., by using language such as "their salt" or "their salts." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, sup cations Additional ions such as ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.
[0276] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that less than about 2% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material.
[0277] Any components positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.
Claims
Claims
1. A method of reducing frizz or increasing smoothness of hair comprising: (i) applying a hair treatment composition to hair in need of frizz reduction or smoothness increase; the composition comprising: (a) from about 5 wt% to about 50 wt% of at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains; and (b) a liquid carrier, wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition; (ii) subjecting the hair to a heat treatment, wherein the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the heat treatment comprises treating the hair with a hot iron at a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C.
3. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises: (c) one or more amino-functionalized silicones.
4. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition is free of alkylene carbonates, cyclic carbonates other than the at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamides.
5. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises: (d) one or more film-forming polymers.
6. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises: (e) one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners.
7. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the method does not comprise applying an oxidizing compound or an oxidizing composition to the hair.
8. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the method does not comprise the application of thioglycolic acid, of thiolactic acid or salts thereof; and does not include the application of a peroxide.
9. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises from about 10% by weight to about 50% by weight of the at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains.
10. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one acyclic carbonate ester having a plurality of C6-C18 fatty chains is dicaprylyl carbonate.