MONOPHASIC MICELLAR COSMETIC CLEANSING COMPOSITION
A cosmetic cleansing composition with chitosan and amphoteric surfactants in monophasic micellar water addresses the low removal efficacy of long-lasting makeup, offering improved cleansing and hydration without harshness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023010948
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-12
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-10-12
AI Technical Summary
Monophasic micellar water has low efficacy in removing long-lasting makeup, such as foundation and mascara, and existing alternatives with polyethylene glycol surfactants can be harsh on the skin.
A cosmetic cleansing composition incorporating naturally derived cationic polymers like chitosan and amphoteric surfactants, without PEG/POE surfactants, to enhance cleansing efficacy and hydration while maintaining a transparent appearance.
The composition demonstrates improved makeup removal efficiency, comparable to or better than conventional products, with a refreshing sensation and enhanced hydration, while being gentle on the skin.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: MONOPHASIC MICELLAR COSMETIC CLEANSING COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This disclosure relates to a skin care composition, in particular, a cosmetic cleansing composition in a micellar formulation. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Monophasic micellar water as a gentle makeup remover is popular with consumers because it provides hydration and a refreshing sensation after use. The challenge with monophasic micellar water is its relatively low removal efficacy of foundation and mascara, especially long-lasting makeup, compared to oil-based makeup removers. Therefore, developing an aesthetically pleasing micellar cleansing formulation that offers robust efficacy is a challenge. Products with alternative cleansing components, including polyethylene glycol surfactants, offer an alternative to oil-based makeup removers but can be harsh on the skin.
[0003] The inventors have formulated an innovative technology that overcomes the shortcomings of the prior art to improve the performance of micellar water cleansing by incorporating a naturally derived cationic polymer, for example, but not limited to, chitosan, polylysine, cationic guar, and an amphoteric surfactant. By using naturally derived ingredients, the composition is free of ingredients that are harsh, undesirable, or unsustainable and offers comparable or improved efficacy compared to less natural or more aggressive compositions. The cosmetic cleansing composition maintains a transparent appearance of micellar water upon application, with a refreshing sensation after use, and provides enhanced cleansing efficacy and hydration compared to current product solutions.In some embodiments, the inventive composition is free of polyethylene glycol / polyethylene oxide (PEG / POE) surfactants. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0004] In various embodiments, a cosmetic cleansing composition is proposed which includes a monophasic micellar water comprising: a. at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount which is greater than about 0.05%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; b. at least one cationic polymer present in an amount that exceeds approximately 0.01%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; and c. an aqueous vector comprising at least water.
[0005] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free of PEG / POE surfactants.
[0006] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition from about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0007] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate and their combinations.
[0008] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant comprises (i) cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or combinations thereof, all in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0009] In some embodiments, each of the at least one cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0010] In some embodiments, at least one cationic polymer is chosen from the group consisting of chitosan, polylysine, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium dextran chloride and their combinations.
[0011] In certain embodiments, at least one cationic polymer is selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (iii) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, or combinations thereof, all in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0012] In certain embodiments, at least one cationic polymer is selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, (iii) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, or combinations thereof, all in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0013] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant comprises (i) of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.5% to about 2.5%, (ii) of coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.1% to about 0.25%, or a combination thereof, and wherein each of at least one cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0014] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free of PEG / POE surfactants selected from the group consisting of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 methyl glucoside sesquistearate, PG-5 dioleate, PG-4 diisostearate, PG-10 isostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-150 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, ceteareth-20, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, isoceteth-20, laureth-4, laureth-23, oleth-10, oleth-20, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100 and steareth-21, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, poloxamer 184 (polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycol), and their combinations.
[0015] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition also includes one or more co-emulsifiers comprising a polyglycerol ester selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, and a combination thereof, and wherein the one or more co-emulsifiers are present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0016] In some embodiments, one or more co-emulsifiers include polyglyceryl-4 caprate present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.4% to about 1.2%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0017] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition also includes a water-based solvent or a combination of water-based solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, pentylene glycol and a combination thereof.
[0018] In some embodiments, the composition has a pH in the range of about 4.0 to about 8.0.
[0019] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition also includes at least one of the following: hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, chloride sodium, citric acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, or a combination thereof.
[0020] In certain embodiments, a cosmetic cleansing composition that includes a monophasic micellar water comprising: a. at least one amphoteric surfactant comprising (i) cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or combinations thereof; b. at least one cationic polymer selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (iii) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, or combinations thereof; c. one or more co-emulsifiers are selected from polyglyceryl-4 caprate, glyceryl caprylate, or a combination thereof, and wherein at least one co-emulsifier is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%; d. an aqueous vector comprising water and one or a combination of water-based solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin and pentylene glycol; and e. at least one of the following: hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, sodium chloride, citric acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, or combinations thereof, all in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition excludes PEG / POE surfactants, and wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition has a pH in the range of about 4.0 to about 8.0.
[0021] In certain embodiments, at least one cationic polymer is selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, (iii) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, or combinations thereof, all in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0022] In various embodiments, a cleaning composition is proposed cosmetic which includes a monophasic micellar water comprising: a. at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount which is greater than about 0.05%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; b. at least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan, polylysine, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or combinations thereof, at least one cationic polymer being present in an amount that exceeds approximately 0.01%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; and c. an aqueous vector comprising at least water,
[0023] all quantities by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free of PEG / POE surfactants, and wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition has a pH of about 5, and wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition, when applied to keratinous tissue, demonstrates cleansing of long-lasting foundation and lipstick.
[0024] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant comprises (i) cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or combinations thereof, wherein the cationic polymer is chitosan present in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprising one or more co-emulsifiers, and one or a combination of water-based solvents.
[0025] In certain embodiments, one or more co-emulsifiers are selected from polyglyceryl-4 caprate, glyceryl caprylate, or a combination thereof present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, and wherein the water-based solvent or combination of water-based solvents comprises glycerin and pentylene glycol.
[0026] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a mixture of solvents which include glycerin with one or more of pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, triethyl citrate, propylene glycol or a combination thereof, in which each solvent is present in a range of about 1% to about 10%, by weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0027] In certain embodiments, (a) at least one cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, guar, or a combination thereof, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprising a mixture of water-soluble solvents including approximately 1% glycerin and approximately 3% pentylene glycol, or (b) at least one cationic polymer is polylysine, the cleansing composition cosmetic including a mixture of solvents selected from the group consisting of (i) glycerin present at about 1%, pentylene glycol present at about 1.5% and caprylyl glycol present at about 0.5%, (ii) glycerin present at about 1%, butylene glycol present at about 3% and caprylyl glycol present at about 0.5%, (iii) glycerin present at about 1%, triethyl citrate present at about 2.5% and caprylyl glycol present at about 0.5%, (iv) glycerin present at about 1%, triethyl citrate present at about 3% and propylene glycol present at about 3%, and (v) a combination thereof.
[0028] According to some embodiments, the composition has a pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 5.5.
[0029] According to some embodiments, the composition is essentially free of acrylate-type copolymer, anionic surfactants, sulfate and sulfonate-based surfactants, glycolipids or combinations thereof.
[0030] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the detailed description that follows are provided by way of example and explanation only, and are not restrictive with respect to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0031] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is a micellar water essentially free of an oil phase. In some embodiments, the foaming cleansing composition is a skin cleanser, a shampoo, or a shower gel, and in certain specific embodiments, the composition is a facial cleanser and / or a makeup remover.
[0032] The cosmetic cleansing composition includes a monophasic micellar water comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant present at a concentration of more than approximately 0.05% by weight, at least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan, polylysine, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or combinations thereof, present at a concentration of more than approximately 0.01% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and an aqueous carrier comprising at least water. The cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free of PEG / POE surfactants and has a pH in the range of approximately 4 to approximately 8. When applied to keratinized tissue, the cosmetic cleansing composition demonstrates the removal of long-lasting foundation and lipstick. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is nature-based and formulated to be natural or all-natural.
[0033] The inventors have demonstrated that the incorporation of a cationic polymer into a single-phase micellar water resulted in an unexpected and significant improvement in removal efficiency compared to the current reference and samples without the polymer. Cationic polymer. Without delving into a theory, it is suggested that the technology works by the fact that positively charged groups in the polycation promote electrostatic attraction with negatively charged groups in the surfactants. In other words, the hydroxyl group in the polycation and the surfactant also have a strong hydrogen bond. Consequently, the polycation attracts the surfactants to form aggregates / micelles on the cationic polymer chain. It is also suggested that the resulting polycation-surfactant association has a strong, complex interaction with makeup via electro-attraction, hydrogen bonding, van der Waals forces, etc. Thus, it is suggested that the polycation acts as a delivery vehicle for the surfactant to absorb and remove makeup. When the cosmetic cleansing composition adsorbs onto the surface of the makeup, it also causes the surfactants to slide onto the surface of the makeup where the surfactants are condensed on the surface of the makeup, and thus offers better removal.
[0034] Thanks to expert assessments of makeup removal effectiveness, the cosmetic cleansing composition according to the disclosure has demonstrated performance at the same level or better than competing compositions when removing foundation and excels in removing eye and lip makeup.
[0035] An ex vivo evaluation of makeup removal demonstrates that the cosmetic cleansing composition performs significantly better than the commercial reference, and direct comparisons between the compositions with and without the cationic polymer demonstrate a significant effect of the cationic polymer compared to the baseline.
[0036] In various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is suitable for application to keratinous tissue for cleansing, particularly for makeup removal. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free of, or devoid of, one or more oils, silicones, and film-forming agents. In other embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may comprise one or more of the following ingredients: oils, silicone oils, silicone polymers, and film-forming agents. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is free of, or essentially free of, harsh chemicals and non-natural ingredients (silicones, alcohol, parabens, perfume, sulfates).
[0037] The cosmetic cleansing composition may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredient, component or limitation described herein or otherwise useful.
[0038] “Cleaner” or “cleaning composition” as used herein means and refers to any cleansing composition used for application on keratinous tissue for one or more of the following: skin cleansing, makeup removal, and similar.
[0039] “Excluded surfactant” means and designates excluded surfactants that have not been added as a component in the cosmetic cleansing composition. In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free, free from, or devoid of one or more PEG / PEO surfactants, sulfate / sulfonate-based surfactants, and anionic surfactants. Those skilled in the art will understand that a surfactant may be present in a composition via its presence in one or more of the formulation components; thus, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may be "essentially devoid" in which a surfactant is present at a concentration not exceeding 5% by weight, and in some cases not exceeding 3% by weight, and in some cases not exceeding 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.In certain particular embodiments, "devoid" means that the cosmetic cleansing composition is free from or specifically devoid of an excluded surfactant.Some specific, but not exhaustive, examples of surfactants that are absent from the cosmetic cleansing composition include: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 methylglucoside sesquistearate, PG-5 dioleate, PG-4 diisostearate, PG-10 isostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-150 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, ceteareth-20, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, isoceteth-20, laureth-4, laureth-23, oleth-10, oleth-20, Steareth 10, Steareth 20, Steareth 100 and Steareth 21, PEG 20 glyceryl laurate, PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil, poloxamer 184 (polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycol), and their combinations.
[0040] “Exempt” and “devoid” and “exclude” or “excluded” each indicate that no A reliably measurable excluded material, for example, an excluded volatile silicone oil, an excluded surfactant, or another excluded material as described herein, is not present in the cosmetic cleansing composition. The term "essentially free" means that, although it is preferable that no excluded material be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the cosmetic cleansing composition of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the cosmetic cleansing composition. In particular, "essentially free" means that the excluded material may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in an amount of less than 5%, or less than 4%, or less than 3%, or less than 2%, or less than 1%, or less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0041] “Keratinous substance” and “keratinous tissue” each include, but are not limited to, the skin, hair and nails.
[0042] The term “micellar” as used in reference to the inventive cosmetic cleansing composition means that the cosmetic cleansing composition consists of an aqueous phase with micellar aggregates in suspension of surfactant and a cationic polymer, which are readily suspended in the aqueous phase by stirring and which rapidly separate / phase out when the cosmetic cleansing composition is at rest. It should be understood that the cosmetic cleansing composition does not include a significant oil content and therefore does not include an oily phase. The cosmetic cleansing composition is shaken or agitated to obtain a suspension of the surfactant micelles and the cationic polymer before application. Pre-application agitation forms a suspension of sufficient uniformity and stability to allow uniform application to keratinous tissue for makeup removal.The cosmetic cleansing formula is light, somewhat like a toner, with a pleasant sensation upon application.
[0043] “Natural” or “nature-based” as used herein means and refers to Cosmetically acceptable materials and components that are one or more of those directly obtained from nature, are obtained from nature with minimal processing, and are derivatives of materials obtained from nature. The cleansing composition according to this disclosure is, in certain embodiments, up to 99.11% natural, or "Highly Natural" or "All Natural," meaning that all carbon atoms of intentionally added ingredients are derived from natural sources in accordance with ISO 16128.
[0044] “Without petrochemicals” means that petrochemicals are excluded have not been added as a component. Some specific, but not limiting, examples of petrochemicals that are absent from the cosmetic cleansing composition include benzalconium chloride, isododecane, isohexadecane, and the like. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is not free of petrochemicals but is formulated to have an amount of petrochemicals equal to or less than the amounts found in similar commercially available compositions.
[0045] “Silicone-free” means that the excluded silicones have not been added as component. In some embodiments, a composition is free of silicones. Some specific, but not limiting, examples of silicones that are absent from the cosmetic cleansing composition include, but are not limited to, silicone polymers, for example selected from dimethicone, cyclopenta-siloxane and other silicone oils, and silicone elastomers.
[0046] “Skin” as used herein means and refers to skin materials containing keratin such as the skin of the face and body, scalp, eyebrows and lips.
[0047] “Stable” and “Stability” as used herein mean that the cleaning composition The cosmetic product shows no signs of significant changes in one or more components, including color, odor, pH, or viscosity, at room temperature and at temperatures in the range of approximately 25°C to approximately 45°C. In various embodiments, an inventive composition remains stable at temperatures in the range of approximately 25°C to approximately 45°C for a period of at least one month, or at least two months, or more, or any intermediate value, range, or sub-range. In some embodiments, a cleansing composition is stable at 25°C for at least one month, or at least two months, or more, or any intermediate value, range, or sub-range. In some embodiments, a cleansing composition is stable at 45°C for at least one month, or at least two months, or more, or any intermediate value, range, or sub-range.As described here, some compositions including anionic polymers instead of the cationic polymer exhibit a cloudy character which is associated with the precipitation of one or more ingredients, demonstrating the instability of the composition.
[0048] COSMETIC CLEANSING COMPOSITION Amphoteric surfactant
[0049] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant (or zwitterionic surfactant). In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises more than one amphoteric surfactant. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include or exclude one or more nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactants, and in particular, in some embodiments, excludes PEG / POE surfactants. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a combination of amphoteric surfactants.
[0050] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant may include cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or a combination thereof. In some particular embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a combination of surfactants that include cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or a combination thereof.
[0051] In certain embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant may be selected from, for example, betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoathetas and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, amphocarboxylates, alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, amphophosphates, phosphobetaines,
[0052] pyrophosphobetaines, carboxyalkylpolyamines, amidoalkyl sultaines, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof. The betaines that can be used in these compositions include those meeting the formulas below: CHs CHM5H
[0053]
[0054]
[0055] CH® in which • R10 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; and • n is an integer from 1 to 3. Particularly useful betaines include, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxysulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, at least one betaine compound may be selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and most typically coco betaine. The hydroxyl sultaines useful in the compositions of the invention include the following
[0056] in which • R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0057] More specific examples include, but are not limited to, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, or mixtures thereof.
[0058] Useful alkylamphoacetates include those corresponding to the formula OH O f'"' Q A to A - * R' 'NH O Na
[0059] in which • R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0060] Useful alkyl amphodiacetates include those corresponding to the formula O ■H- O Na O ' A n A.A. A. . R' NO Na OH
[0061] in which • R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0062] Alkyl amphopropionates
[0063] Non-limiting examples of alkyl amphopropionates include cacaompho-propionate, caprylamphopropionate, comamphopropionate, caproamphopropionate, oleoamphopropionate, isostearoamphopropionate, stearoamphopropionate, lauroamphopropionate, their salts or mixtures thereof.
[0064] At least one amphoteric surfactant of this disclosure may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0065] At least one amphoteric surfactant may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 1% to about 5%, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0066] In various embodiments, each of the at least one amphoteric surfactant may be present in an amount in the range of about 0.1% to about 20%, and the total amount of surfactant may be present in a range of about 0.1% to about 40% or more. In some embodiments, each of the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount that is at least 0.1%, or about 1% to about 20%, or up to 20%, or about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 3%, or about 8%, or about 0.05% to about 10%, or about 5% to about 10%, or about 7% to about 15%, or about 10% to about 30%, or about 30% to about 50%, or any value, range or subrange by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0067] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant includes co-camidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or a combination of these.
[0068] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant includes co-camidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.5% to about 2.5%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.1% to about 0.25%, or a combination thereof.
[0069] Thus, in various embodiments, each of the at least one amphoteric surfactant may be present in a composition according to the disclosure from 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 120, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 to approximately 50, including intermediate increments and ranges. Cationic Polymer
[0070] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises at least one cationic polymer selected from polymers of natural origin that are polysaccharides, and other polymers of natural origin (i.e. of plant, animal or bacterial origin), synthetic or modified cationic or of natural origin.
[0071] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a naturally occurring polymer. In general, a naturally occurring cationic polymer can be chosen from cationic forms and cationic derivatives of polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides.
[0072] In some embodiments, the naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides that include chitosan, chitin, starches, alginates, celluloses, galactomannans such as guar gums, in particular their cationic derivatives, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, at least one naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from chitosan, chitosan derivatives, chitin, starch, starch derivatives, cellulose (for example, but not limited to, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, hemicellulose and hemicellulose derivatives), alginates, including but not limited to sodium alginate, and combinations thereof.
[0073] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a cationic polymer of natural origin selected from: chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, polymeric chitosan having a molecular weight in the range of 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa, chitosan derivatives, chitosan derivatives having enhanced solubility, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0074] Examples of cationic polymers include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose), cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyornithine), peptide / protein polymers (e.g., histone, collagen), linear or branched synthetic polymers (e.g., polybrene, polyethyleneimine), natural polymers (e.g., histone, collagen), synthetic dendrimers, thiolated cationic biopolymers (naturally occurring thiomers or naturally occurring dendrimers, e.g., chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutbutylamidine and chitosan-thioglycolic acid).
[0075] Examples of naturally occurring cationic polymers include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose); cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyornithine); peptide / protein polymers (e.g., histone, collagen); thiolated cationic biopolymers (naturally occurring thiomers or naturally occurring dendrimers, e.g., chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid); or combinations thereof.
[0076] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes at least one cationic chitosan of natural origin selected from chitosan oligosaccharide, chitosan (or polymeric chitosan having a molecular weight (MW) in a range of about 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa), chitosan derivatives, including derivatives having enhanced solubility, or combinations thereof.
[0077] In various embodiments, chitosan has a molecular weight (MW) in the range of approximately 1 kDa to approximately 1000 kDa. In some particular embodiments, chitosan has a "low" molecular weight, in the range of approximately 1 kDa to approximately 20 kDa, or approximately 10 kDa to approximately 20 kDa, or approximately 12 kDa to approximately 18 kDa. In some embodiments, chitosan has an MW of approximately 27 kDa.
[0078] In some embodiments, at least one cationic polymer of natural origin is present from about 0.05% to about 2%, or from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition and includes chitosan.
[0079] In some embodiments, at least one naturally occurring cationic polymer is chitosan present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%.
[0080] In some embodiments, at least one naturally occurring cationic polymer is chitosan present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 2.5%.
[0081] Chitosan is a unique polycation because its charge density depends on the degree of acetylation and the pH of the medium, and its solubility depends on the degree of acetylation and the molecular weight. Although chitosan oligomers are soluble over a wide pH range, from acidic to basic (i.e., a physiological pH of 7.4), chitosan with increasing molecular weight is soluble only in acidic aqueous media, even at high degrees of deacetylation. This lack of solubility at neutral and basic pH has hindered the use of chitosan in certain applications under neutral physiological conditions (i.e., pH 7.4).
[0082] The pH of the cosmetic cleansing composition is in the range of about 4 to about 8, or about 4 to about 7, or about 4 to about 6, or about 4 to about 5, or about 4.5 to about 6.5, or about 5 to about 5.5, or about 5 to about 6, or about 5.
[0083] At least one naturally derived cationic polymer is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition, according to disclosure, at a concentration of approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, or approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.8%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, or approximately 0.2% to approximately 0.4%, or approximately 0.4%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0084] Thus, a polymer or a combination of polymers may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 to about 2 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0085] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer comprises chitosan having a molecular weight in the range of 10 kDa to about 20 kDa.
[0086] In certain particular embodiments, each of the at least one cationic polymer chosen from polysaccharides can be chosen from chitosan and galactomannans such as guar gums, in particular their cationic derivatives.
[0087] In other embodiments, the naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be selected from one or more of the following: methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, fructans such as inulin, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, agars, glycosaminoglycans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, microbial biopolysaccharide gums such as scleroglucan or xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, chondroitin sulfates and their mixtures.
[0088] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of each of the at least one naturally derived cationic polymer present in the cleansing cosmetic compositions can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.2%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 3.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing cosmetic composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0089] In the various embodiments, the total amount of natural cationic polymer that may be present in the cleansing cosmetic composition may range from about 0.01% to about 20%, or from about 0.05% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 5%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or about 0.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing cosmetic composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0090] Thus, any one of the at least one cationic polymer of natural origin is present, by weight, on the basis of the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 to about 10% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0091] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is not a polymer of natural origin and may be chosen from synthetic polymers. In some examples, the synthetic polymers are not silicone-based, and in some embodiments may be chosen from the group consisting of polyquaterniums, i.e. polymers having quaternary ammonium centers in the polymer, for example, including polyquaternium-47 (1-Propanaminium, N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-l-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-, chloride, a polymer with methyl 2-propenoate and 2-propenoic acid). Other non-limiting examples of these polyquaterniums can be chosen from the dialysidimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Poly-quatemium-22);the copolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, acrylic acid or methyl acrylate, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 2001 N POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquatemium-47); the acrylamide / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331 PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER OR MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Po-lyquaternium-39); an ampholytic terpolymer consisting of methacrylamide trimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC), acrylamide and acrylic acid, sold under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquatemium-53); Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54; Polyquaternium-57; Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquaternium-76; Polyquaternium-86; Polyquaternium-89;Polyquaternium-95; Polyquaternium-98, Polyquaternium-104; Polyquaternium-111; Polyquaternium-112, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a synthetic polymer selected from among cationic acrylic polymers, for example, an amorphous functional acrylic polymer grafted onto a polyethylene backbone such as SYNTRAN™ 5330, which is a quaternary-modified olefin grafted technology. More generally, these synthetic polymers are; selected from, but not limited to, cationic polymers comprising polyacrylates such as those identified in the Dictionary and International Manual of Cosmetic Ingredients (9th ed. 2002), such as, for example, polyacrylate-1, polyacrylate-2, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylate-4, polyacrylate-16, polyacrylate-17, polyacrylate-18, polyacrylate-19, polyacrylate-21, and mixtures thereof. Such (co)polymers, or similar (co)polymers, may be combined individually or with other (co)polymers to form suitable bimodal agents having both cationic and anionic functionalities.
[0092] According to the various embodiments, the amount of cationic polymer that is not a polymer of natural origin and is selected from synthetic cationic polymers may be present in the synthetic cleaning composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 20%, by weight, or about 0.05% to about 10%, or about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 2%, or about 1%, or about 0.05% to about 1%, or about 0.01% to about 0.5%, or about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, or about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming cleaning composition.
[0093] Thus, any one of the at least one synthetic cationic polymer, when present, is present, by weight, on the basis of the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 to about 10% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0094] In the various embodiments, the quantity of each of the at least one cationic polymer, which may be a cationic polymer of natural or synthetic origin, alone or in combination with another cationic polymer, present in the cosmetic cleansing compositions may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, or from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or from about 0.1% to about 5%, or from about 1% to about 3.5%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or about 1%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other beaches fall within the scope of the invention. Surfactant / Co-emulsifier (Co-emulsifier)
[0095] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include one or more co-emulsifying surfactants (here co-emulsifier).
[0096] In certain embodiments, the suitable co-emulsifier that can be used according to the disclosure may be chosen from polyglyceryl-4 caprate (PG- 4), glyceryl caprylate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, ethylhexyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, myristyle myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), isostearyl neopentanoate, cetearyl ethyl hexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, coco caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl adipate, and combinations of these lactic acid esters and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, or their combinations.
[0097] In some embodiments, one or more co-emulsifiers are present from approximately 1% to approximately 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of co-emulsifier does not exceed approximately 10% by weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0098] In certain embodiments, each of the one or more co-emulsifiers may be present from about 0.05% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, or from about 1% to about 10% by weight, or from about 1% to about 8%, or from about 0.05% to about 2%, or about 1% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. When present, the total amount of surfactant / co-emulsifier present in the cosmetic cleansing composition may be in a range of about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, or about 1% to about 8% by weight, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.A person with ordinary skill in art will, however, appreciate that other areas fall within the scope of the invention.
[0099] Thus, each of the one or more co-emulsifiers in the cosmetic cleansing composition can be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 to about 15 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Water
[0100] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes water.
[0101] In various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises from about 5% to about 90% water, and in some embodiments from about 20% to about 85% water, and in some embodiments from about 50% to approximately 85% water, and in some embodiments from approximately 60% to approximately 80% water, and in some embodiments from approximately 65% to approximately 75% water, including increments and all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. Thus, water is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at a rate of approximately 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 80, 85, up to approximately 90 percent, by weight, including increments and all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0102] The water used in the cosmetic cleansing composition may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium etc., recreating the characteristics of thermal water.
[0103] As a general rule, the pH can be corrected to the desired value by adding a base or an acid (organic or inorganic). Given the inclusion of hydroxy acids in the present cosmetic cleansing composition, the pH is typically corrected using a base, which in some examples is sodium hydroxide, or using an acid, which in some examples is citric acid. Water-soluble solvents
[0104] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include at least one water-soluble solvent. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions.
[0105] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a mixture of solvents comprising glycerin with one or more of pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, triethyl glycol, and propylene glycol. In such embodiments, each of the solvents is present from approximately 1% to approximately 10%. weight of the composition.
[0106] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a mixture of solvents which includes at least glycerin with additional solvents including pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, triethyl citrate and caprylyl glycol, or triethyl citrate and propylene glycol.
[0107] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a mixture of water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, glycerin, triethyl citrate and caprylyl glycol, glycerin, triethyl citrate and propylene glycol, or combinations thereof.
[0108] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition which includes one of chitosan or guar or a combination thereof as a cationic polymer includes a mixture of water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin present at approximately 1%, and pentylene glycol present at approximately 3%.
[0109] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition which includes polylysine as a cationic polymer includes a mixture of water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin present at approximately 1%, pentylene glycol present at approximately 1.5% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, glycerin present at approximately 1%, butylene glycol present at approximately 3% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, glycerin present at approximately 1%, triethyl citrate present at approximately 2.5% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, glycerin present at approximately 1%, triethyl citrate present at approximately 3% and propylene glycol present at approximately 3%, or combinations thereof.
[0110] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-C30, Cl-Cl5, Cl-ClO or C1-C4 alcohols), polyols, glycols and combinations thereof.
[0111] Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are: ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and Glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0112] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, ethylene glycol acetate monomethyl ether, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-isopropyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, and combinations thereof.
[0113] In some cases, a water-soluble solvent may be chosen from the group consisting of pentylene glycol, glycerin and their combinations.
[0114] In the various embodiments, the quantity of at least one water-soluble solvent, if present, is from approximately 0.5% to approximately 25%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the foaming cleaning composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0115] Thus, any water-soluble solvent is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming cleaning composition, from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to about 25% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Conservatives
[0116] In some embodiments, one or more preservatives and / or antimicrobials may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0117] Any preservative commonly used in cosmetic cleansing formulations is an acceptable preservative for the cosmetic cleansing compositions herein, such as phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, members of the paraben family such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or isobutyl parabens, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, triclosan, benzyl alcohol, chlorophenesin, or salicylic acid, for example. At more concentrated amounts of solvents suitable for optional additives, particularly solvents suitable for antimicrobials and preservatives, members of the paraben family may be used as preservatives.
[0118] In some embodiments, one or more preservatives, when present, may be selected from caprylyl glycol, myrtrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, chlorphenesin, cetrimonium chloride, hexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propanediol and 1,2-hexanediol; polyaminopropyl biguanide, also known as polyhexamethylene biguanide, or PHMB, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is free from or substantially free from one or more of caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, hexylglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propanediol and 1,2-hexanediol; polyaminopropyl biguanide, also known as polyhexamethylene biguanide, or PHMB.
[0119] In some embodiments, one or more preservatives include caprylyl glycol.
[0120] In certain embodiments, the preservative may comprise one or more preservatives selected from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammonium compounds, alcohols, isothiazolinones, and combinations thereof. Preservatives having antibacterial activity are optionally present in the cosmetic cleansing compositions of the present invention. Examples of organic acid preservatives include, but are not limited to, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzoic acid and dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, and combinations thereof. A preferred organic acid preservative system comprises a mixture of sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate.Examples of paraben preservatives include, but are not limited to, alkyl para-hydroxybenzoates, in which the alkyl radical has 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and, for example, 1 to 4 carbon atoms, e.g., methyl para-hydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), para-. Examples of formaldehyde-donating preservatives include, but are not limited to, 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), imidazolidinyl urea, gluteraldehyde, and combinations thereof. Examples of quaternary ammonium preservatives include, but are not limited to, benzalconium chloride, methenammonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, and combinations thereof. Examples of alcohol preservatives include, but are not limited to, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and combinations thereof. Examples of isothiazolone preservatives include, but are not limited to, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, and combinations thereof.
[0121] In certain particular embodiments, suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, phenoxyethanol, tetrasodium EDTA, zinc gluconate, hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, chlorphenesin, or combinations thereof.
[0122] In certain embodiments, the preservative includes one or more preservatives, the preservative or combination thereof, present at a concentration, by weight, of approximately 0.001% to approximately 5%, or alternatively from approximately 0.05% to approximately 2.5%, or alternatively from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.0%, or from approximately 0.02% to approximately 1% by weight, or from approximately 0.03% to approximately 0.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, relative to the weight of the foaming cleansing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0123] Thus, any one of the preservatives or a combination thereof, if present, may be, by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming cleansing composition, from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, to about 5 weights, including intermediate increments and ranges. Optional additives
[0124] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes one or more other optional ingredients selected from the group consisting of skin care actives, humectants, conditioning agents, thickeners, viscosity correctors, cooling agents, fillers, antimicrobials, preservatives, pH correctors, chelating agents and their combinations.
[0125] In certain embodiments, a cleansing composition includes at least one additive used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the cosmetic cleansing composition according to the invention, such as perfumes, color correctors pH adjusters (citric acid, sodium chloride, lactic acid); pH neutralizing or correcting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and their combinations); other cosmetically acceptable additives, such as, but not limited to, pearlescent agents, silica, and colorants; essential oils; fruit extracts, e.g., Pyrus Malus (apple) fruit extract and Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice powder; active ingredients (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone); vitamins (e.g., vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E, panthenol, retinol, resveratrol, vitamin C, niacinamide, their derivatives and combinations); hyaluronic acid in the form of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate; colorants / pigments; essential oils;antioxidants (phenolic compounds, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria Baicalensis root extract), pine bark extract (pine bark / bud extract), ellagic acid); vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as calcium pantothenate, tocopherol and ascorbic acid; hydroxy acids; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride; neutralizing, chelating or pH-correcting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium EDTA ethydroxide); powders, perfumes, dyes, pigments;Organic or mineral UV filters; revitalizing agents such as C12-15 alkyl lactate and C12-15 alcohols; thickeners, for example ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, propylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate; viscosity correctors, for example sodium chloride and hexylene glycol; cooling agents such as menthol; fillers, for example kaolin; or any combination thereof. Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it would be appreciated if other optional components compatible with known cosmetic applications could be used.
[0126] In the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more additives, alone or in combination, when present in the cosmetic cleansing composition according to the disclosure, may be present in a range of approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.005% to approximately 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.15% to approximately 5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.40% to approximately 4%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.1%. at approximately 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0127] Thus, any one or a combination of optional additives may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, of approximately 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at approximately 20% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0128] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include one or more oils. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free of, free from, or devoid of oils.
[0129] In some examples, the oils may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as: i. hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, cucurbit oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, and essential oils such as Helianthus Annuus seed oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (lavender) oil, Mentha Piperita oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil, and oil of Pelargonium Graveolens flowers, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (orange) peel oil, Mint leaf oil; Viridis (spearmint), lime (Citrus Aurantifolia) oil, Melaleuca Altemifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, Citrus Grandis (grapefruit) peel oil, Citrus Medica Limonum (lemon) peel oil, rose flower oil, eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, and combinations thereof. ii. synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; iii. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam and squalane 40; iv. synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' equals 10, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN(TM) or Witconol TN(TM) by Witco or Tegosoft TN(TM) by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stéarinerie Dubois, octanoates,decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI(TM) by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and linear C14-C15 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL(TM) by the same company; or acetates; , v. fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; vi. higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; vii. carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by Cognis; viii. Fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) by Ajinomoto; and ix. The essential oils chosen from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam fir oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, oil of neroli, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, bitter orange petitgrain oil,Pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, and ylang-ylang.
[0130] In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include at least one liquid alkane, branched or linear, having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20, or from C15 to C19, or from C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, and C19. In some particular embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to disclosure include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.In some exemplary embodiments, these liquid alkanes may be chosen from among the isoparaffins, for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane.
[0131] The amount of each of the at least one branched or linear liquid alkane may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of approximately 1% to approximately 35%, or approximately 15% to approximately 30%, or approximately 10% to approximately 20%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0132] Thus, each of the at least one branched or linear liquid alkane in the cosmetic cleansing composition may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition cosmetic cleansing position, from approximately 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 128, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, to approximately 35 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0133] Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it will be appreciated if other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art and suitable may be used. It will be appreciated by a qualified person that all optional additives are present only to the extent and in quantities that do not materially and adversely affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. Thus, in certain embodiments that include optional additives, these optional additives will not materially affect the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0134] More generally, it will be assessed by a qualified person that all solvents, humectants, preservatives and other additives are present only to the extent and in quantities which do not materially and negatively affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. EXAMPLES
[0135] The following examples are intended to further illustrate this disclosure. They are not intended to limit disclosure in any way. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts are by weight. Raw materials
[0136] [Table 1] Table 1: Materials used include: Raw material % active (if <~100%); components / solvents in addition to the active ingredient Chitosan 85%: (includes 15% beta-glucan) Polylysine 25% Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine 50% Coco Betaine 30% Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate 90% Example 1: Compositions
[0137] Examples of embodiments of cosmetic cleansing compositions are presented in Table 1 below.
[0138] [Table 2] Table 2: Inventive Compositions Ingredient INV 1 INV 2 INV 3 INV 4 INV 5 INV 6 INV 7 INV 8 INV 9 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.50 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 POLYEPSILON-LYSINE 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.4 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.12 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 1.50 1.0 GLYCERIN 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 CITRIC ACID 0.05 0.05 0.00 5 0.00 5 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 GUAR CHLORIDE HYDROXY-PROPYLTRIMONIUM 0.10 0.10 0.10 COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAIN E 0.40 0.40 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 1.2 COCO-BETAINE 0.20 1 0.20 1 POLY-GLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE 0.99 9 0.99 9 0.39 6 0.39 6 0.39 6 0.39 6 0.80 1 0.80 1 0.44 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.04 0.04 WATER / QS ~94 ~94 ~94 ~94 ~94 ~94 ~94 ~95 ~96 CHITOSAN 0.08 5 BETA-GLUCANE 0.01 5 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.3
[0139] Table 3 provides examples of inventive and comparative compositions. A, B, C, D are inventive formulations of micellar water with chitosan; A1, B1, C1, D1 are comparative micellar waters without chitosan as baselines to illustrate the benefit of the cationic polymer, chitosan.
[0140] [Table 3] Table 3: Inventive and comparative compositions INCI (US / EU) Inventive With Chitosan Comparative Without Chitosan Formulation Identifier ABCD Al B1 Cl DI WATER / AQUA 92.7 1 92.7 1 93.2 4 93.2 4 92.8 1 92.8 1 93.3 4 93.34 CHITOSAN 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAINE 2 2 0.8 0.8 2 2 0.8 0.8 PG-4 CAPRATE 0.44 0.44 1.11 1.11 0.44 0.44 1.11 1.11 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 GLYCERIN 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 pH 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
[0141] [Table 4] Table 4: Inventive compositions with polylysine & various solvents Ingredient INV8 (from Table 2) VAR1 VAR2 VAR3 pentylene glycol + caprylyl glycol butylene glycol + caprylyl glycol triethyl citrate + caprylyl glycol triethyl citrate + propylene glycol COCO-BETAINE E ~0.2 ~0.2 ~0.2 ~0.2 WATER ~95 ~93 ~94 ~91 GLYCERIN 1 1 1 1 POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE ~0.8 ~0.8 ~0.8 ~0.8 HYDROXYAC ETOPHENONE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.5 Butylene Glycol 3 Triethyl Citrate 2.5 3 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 3 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 CITRIC ACID 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 POLYEPSILON-LYSINE ~0.1 ~0.1 ~0.1 ~0.1
[0142] Comparative reference composition #1 (COMP I) (commercial micellar water with PEG surfactant. No cationic polymer)
[0143] Water, hexylene glycol, glycerin, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, poloxamer 184 (PEG surfactant), preservative / chelator. Comparative reference composition #2 (COMP 2)
[0144] MILK MICELLAR WATER
[0145] Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, hexylene glycol, water, glycerin, poloxamer 184, Agave tequilana leaf extract, Cannabis sativa (hemp) seed extract, caffeine, niacinamide, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, citric acid, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycolipids, polylysine, sodium hydroxide, sodium hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate. Inventive Compositions
[0146] Example 2, Elimination efficiency of long-lasting foundations in vitro
[0147] Foundation: Maybelline Super Stay Longwear Liquid Foundation
[0148] With reference to Table 3, the compositions indicated were tested and compared to reference composition #1. The results are shown below in Table 5.
[0149] [Table 5] Table 5: Elimination Percentage Composition ABCD Al B1 Cl DI COMP1 % elimination 43 35 47 43 28 22 26 22 19
[0150] The results show that the chitosan-free formulations (Al-Dl) demonstrate a removal efficiency of approximately 22% to 28%. In contrast, the inventive compositions with chitosan (AD) demonstrate a removal efficiency of approximately 35% to 47%. The performance of the inventive compositions is significantly better than the commercial reference COMP 1.
[0151] Example 3, In vitro removal efficiency of long-lasting foundation i residue after cleansing
[0152] The compositions were evaluated for the ability to remove foundation makeup from an artificial skin protein substrate based on a color change.
[0153] Method for determining the color change: The color difference associated with the removal of makeup, AE (delta-E; color difference in a rectangular coordinate system), was measured by Datacolor 600.
[0154] Clean reference: substrate completely clean, without makeup applied.
[0155] Black reference: substrate with makeup applied, but before makeup removal.
[0156] Sample after makeup removal: substrate with makeup applied, and after makeup removal carried out.
[0157] The equation below was used to calculate the elimination efficiency. _ . ... after remoral reference Remavamhty = —-—:---------------------- nz? ___n,? Te / erence reference
[0158] With reference to Table 3, the compositions indicated were tested and compared to reference #1 COMP 1. The results are shown below in Table 6.
[0159] [Table 6]Table 6: Foundation retained on the skin (delta E) Formulations with chitosan (delta E of residue) A (23.5) B (25.8) C (20.4) D (20.7) Formulations without chitosan (delta E of residue) Al (29.4) B1 (31.0) Cl (30.0) DI (30.6) COMP1 (34.6)
[0160] A smaller amount of residual foundation was measured on the substrate cleaned with compositions containing chitosan compared to compositions that did not include chitosan, demonstrating the improvement in makeup removal efficacy by chitosan.
[0161] Example 4, In vivo long-wear makeup removal efficacy
[0162] The compositions were evaluated for their ability to remove lipstick and mascara.
[0163] Maybelline long-lasting matte ink lipstick and Maybelline Big Shot waterproof mascara were applied to the skin of clinical subjects for an in vivo removal capability test on the test subject's arms against long-lasting lipstick and waterproof mascara.
[0164] After the lipstick and mascara had dried, 0.4 grams of each evaluated composition formulation was applied to remove the makeup.
[0165] Compared to reference #1 COMP 1, the inventive composition of Table 3, inventive C (with chitosan), captured more makeup on cotton rounds and left less residue on the arms of test subjects.
[0166] Example 5, Long-lasting in vivo makeup removal efficacy with various cationic polymers
[0167] The compositions were evaluated for their ability to remove lipstick and mascara.
[0168] Maybelline long-lasting matte ink lipstick and Maybelline Big Shot waterproof mascara were applied to the skin of clinical subjects for an in vivo removal capability test on the test subject's arms against long-lasting lipstick and waterproof mascara.
[0169] After the lipstick and mascara had dried, 0.4 grams of each evaluated composition formulation was applied to remove the makeup.
[0170] Three different cationic polymers were evaluated in a basic composition with hydroxysultaine with and without co-emulsifier, polyglyceryl-4 caprate. The test compositions included 0.1% chitosan, 0.1% polylysine and 0.1% guar.
[0171] Each of the three showed improved makeup removal capacity compared to reference #1 COMP 1, and the addition of the co-emulsifier did not significantly affect removal capacity. It is alleged that under acidic conditions, protonated chitosan is positively charged, and through electrostatic interaction, the sulfonate group of the amphoteric surfactant hydroxysultaine in the inventive cosmetic cleansing composition can be strongly bound to the activated amino group to form surfactant aggregates / micelles.
[0172] Example 6, Evaluation of cationic polymers compared to other bio- polymers
[0173] The compositions were evaluated for the ability to remove foundation in the presence of different biopolymers chosen from cationic, anionic and non-ionic polymers.
[0174] The super long-wearing foundation was applied to the skin of clinical subjects to enable its removal in vivo.
[0175] Each of the following polymers was tested in the bases hydroxysultaine on 6 / 4 polyglyceryl-4 caprate and hydroxysultaine on 2 / 8 polyglyceryl-4 caprate: chitosan, polylysine and guar (all cationic), xanthan gum and carrageenan (polyanionic), and sclerotium and pullulan (nonionic).
[0176] The results show that the anionic polymers xanthan gum and carrageenan demonstrate some enhancement of foundation removal in vitro, comparable to polycations, presumably due to the attraction of counterions or hydrogen bonding between the anionic polymer and sultaine / PG-4. The nonionic polymer demonstrated significantly lower efficacy than the polycationic and polyanionic polymers. The results of in vivo tests on mascara show that carrageenan polyanions are comparable to or slightly better than reference #1 COMP 1, but do not perform as well as the polycations, which may be due to the polyanion-surfactant complex having a negative charge, unfavorable to attraction with the makeup / skin surface. Furthermore, formulations with this anionic polymer are either phase-separating or very cloudy.
[0177] Example 7, Effect of Dolvlvsine as a cationic polymer versus PEG surfactant with added polvlvsine polymers
[0178] The compositions were evaluated for their ability to remove foundation makeup from an artificial skin protein substrate. Referring to Table 1, the inventive 8 was evaluated against reference 1 COMP 1 (which includes a PEG surfactant) with added polylysine and reference 2 COMP 2. The results are shown below.
[0179] [Table 7] Table 7: Elimination efficiency Inventive 8 Reference #1 COMP 1 (which includes a PEG surfactant) with added polylysine Reference 2 COMP 2 45.7% 19.7% 35.2%
[0180] The results demonstrate that the inventive composition proved to be more effective for removing makeup, and the addition of polycation (polylysine) did not improve the effectiveness of the reference which includes a PEG surfactant.
[0181] Example 8, Effect of polylysine as a cationic polymer
[0182] The compositions were evaluated for their ability to remove foundation makeup from the skin substrate. With reference to Table 1, the inventive 8 was evaluated against the same formulation without polylysine.
[0183] The results demonstrate that the inventive composition proved more effective at removing makeup, as evidenced by a removal efficiency of 45.7% for the inventive composition versus 31.3% for the comparator (inventive composition less polylysine). An additional cotton pad was required to remove mascara and lipstick using the comparator. Similar results were obtained with the removal of mascara and lipstick, where the inventive composition outperformed both the reference composition #1 and the comparator (inventive composition less polylysine).
[0184] Example 9, Effect of surfactant ratio, amount of polylysine, pH in a range of 4 to 6 and osmotic pressure
[0185] The effects of varying amphoteric surfactant / co-emulsifier ratios were shown to have no significant impact on performance, but higher amounts of a polyglyceryl-4 caprate co-emulsifier had little effect on low-temperature stability. A pH variation demonstrated that a lower pH (approximately 4) exhibited improved removal capacity, likely due to greater polylysine protonation, although a pH ≥ 4.5 is generally recommended for eye safety. A variation in the polylysine content from 0.1% to 0.5% showed no significant difference in performance. An osmotic pressure evaluation of the polylysine and guar compositions demonstrated that they were comparable to reference #1, which, along with other commercial makeup removers, exhibited an osmotic pressure higher than that of tears (at 304 mOsm / L).It is understood in the art that an osmotic pressure between 100 and 500 mOsm / L is considered safe. Table 8 below provides osmotic pressure data for the inventive and comparative compositions.
[0186] [Table 8] Table 8: Osmotic pressure of various compositions COMPOSITION Reference #1 COMP1 INV 9 INV 3 INV 6 INV 5 OSMOTIC PRESSURE (mOsm / L) 451 276 484 480 468
[0187] Example 9. Effect of solvents (combination of two solvents)
[0188] Referring now to the compositions in Table 4, solvents were varied in a basic formulation corresponding to INV 8 (VAR 1, VAR 2, VAR 3). The results are shown in Table 9 below.
[0189] [Table 9] Table 9: Effect of solvents Ingredient INV 8 (from Table 2) VAR1 VAR 2 VAR3 Solvent mixture pentylene glycol + caprylyl glycol butylene glycol + caprylyl glycol triethyl citrate + caprylyl glycol triethyl citrate + propylene glycol Removal capacity 51.5% 49.0% 62.3% 49.6%
[0190] Referring to Table 9, the results show that all the inventive compositions tested, including INV 8 and variants VAR 1-VAR 3, remove at least approximately 50% of the makeup from the protein substrate of artificial skin. The data further show that a combination of triethyl citrate and caprylyl glycol in the composition, which also includes glycerin, demonstrated enhanced performance, suggesting that the inclusion of triethyl citrate and caprylyl glycol may further enhance the makeup removal efficacy in embodiments of the inventive composition as disclosed.
[0191] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to described embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications can be made and equivalents can be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the disclosure. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the disclosure without departing from its essential scope. Therefore, it is intended that the disclosure will not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best envisaged means of carrying out this disclosure, but that the disclosure will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.
[0192] The articles "a" and "an," as used in this document, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of this disclosure described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is expressly stated. The articles "the," "a," or "them" preceding singular or plural nouns or noun phrases denote a specified particular feature or features and may have a singular or plural connotation depending on the context in which it is used. The adjectives "any" and "all" mean one, some, or all indiscriminately, regardless of quantity.
[0193] “At least one” or “one or more”, as used in this document, means one, two, three or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0194] The transitional terms “comprising,” “essentially consisting of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claim with respect to any additional unmentioned elements or steps, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step, or material. The term “consisting of” excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claim and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s). The term “essentially consisting of” limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed disclosure.All the materials and processes described herein that embody this disclosure may, in other embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of".
[0195] The terms “free” and “devoid” indicate that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition, typically 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. The term “essentially free” means that, although it is preferable that no excluded material be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the cosmetic cleansing composition of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the cosmetic cleansing composition. In particular, “essentially free” means that the excluded material may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in an amount of less than approximately 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
[0196] Apart from the examples of operation, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).
[0197] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated relative to the total composition unless otherwise stated. In general, unless expressly stated otherwise in the In this document, "weight" or "quantity" as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient refers to the quantity of raw material comprising the ingredient. Raw material may be described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Therefore, the weight percentage of an active ingredient in a composition is represented as the quantity of raw material containing the active ingredient that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active ingredient, the final percentage depending on the weight percentage of the active ingredient in the raw material.
[0198] All ranges and quantities stated in this document are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is intended to have its boundaries of both 1% and 10% modified by the term "approximately". Furthermore, it is understood that where a quantity of a component is given, it is intended to mean the quantity of active material, unless expressly stated otherwise. In this document, all proposed ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, and all combinations of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as the sub-ranges 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.As used here, a report range is meant to include each specific report within subranges and a combination of subranges between the given ranges.
[0199] Although the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure but is not, however, limiting in nature.
Claims
Demands
1. Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising: a monophasic micellar water comprising: (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount which is greater than about 0.05%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; (b) at least one cationic polymer present in an amount that is greater than about 0.01%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; (c) optionally comprising a mixture of solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, triethyl citrate, propylene glycol or a combination thereof, wherein each solvent is present in a range of about 1% to about 10%, by weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition; (d) optionally comprising one or more co-emulsifiers comprising a polyglycerol ester selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, or a combination thereof, and wherein the one or more co-emulsifiers are present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic; and (e) an aqueous carrier comprising at least water, in which the cosmetic cleansing composition is essentially free of PEG / POE surfactants.
2. A cosmetic cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of approximately 0.05% to approximately 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, and is selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and combinations thereof, and wherein each of the at least one cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, and is selected from the group consisting of chitosan, po- lylysine, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and their combinations.
3. A cosmetic cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one amphoteric surfactant comprises (i) cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or combinations thereof, all in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, and wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (iii) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01%. at approximately 5%, or combinations thereof,all quantities by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
4. A cosmetic cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one amphoteric surfactant comprises (i) cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.5% to about 2.5%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.1% to about 0.25%, or a combination thereof, and wherein each of the at least one cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight, all amounts by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, wherein the at least one cationic polymer is selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.15%,(iii) of hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.15%, or (iv) combinations thereof, all quantities by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, and wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a mixture, of solvents selected from the group consisting of (i) glycerin present at approximately 1%, pentylene glycol present at approximately 1.5% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, (ii) glycerin present at approximately 1%, butylene glycol present at approximately 3% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, (iii) glycerin present at approximately 1%, triethyl citrate present at approximately 2.5% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, (iv) glycerin present at approximately 1%, triethyl citrate present at approximately 3% and propylene glycol present at approximately 3%, and (v) a combination thereof.
5. A cosmetic cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition is substantially free from PEG / POE surfactants selected from the group consisting of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 methylglucoside sesquistearate, PG-5 dioleate, PG-4 diisostearate, PG-10 isostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 iisostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-150 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, ceteareth-20, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, isoceteth-20, laureth-4, laureth-23, oleth-10, oleth-20, steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100 and steareth-21, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, poloxamer 184 (polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycol), and combinations thereof, and wherein, when present,The one or more co-emulsifiers include polyglyceryl-4 caprate present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of approximately 0.4% to approximately 1.2%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
6. A cosmetic cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition has a pH in the range of approximately 4.0 to approximately
7. o,v. Cosmetic cleansing composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one of hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, sodium chloride, citric acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, or combinations thereof.
8. Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising: a monophasic micellar water comprising: (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant comprising (i) cocamidopropyl alcohol (i) dopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or combinations thereof; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, (iii) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, or combinations thereof; (c) one or more co-emulsifiers are selected from poly-glyceryl-4 caprate, glyceryl caprylate, or a combination thereof, and wherein at least one co-emulsifier is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%; (d) an aqueous vector comprising water and a water-based solvent or a combination of water-based solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, pentylene glycol or a combination thereof; and (e) at least one of the following: hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, sodium chloride, citric acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, or combinations thereof, all quantities by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, in which the cosmetic cleansing composition excludes PEG / POE surfactants, in which the cosmetic cleansing composition has a pH in the range of approximately 4.0 to approximately 8.0, and wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from (i) chitosan present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, (ii) polylysine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, (iii) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 0.15%, or combinations thereof, all in weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
9. Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising: a monophasic micellar water comprising: (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount which is greater than about 0.05%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; (b) at least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan, polylysine, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or combinations thereof, at least one cationic polymer being present in an amount that exceeds approximately 0.01%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; and (c) an aqueous carrier comprising at least water, all quantities by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition is substantially free of PEG / POE surfactants, and wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition has a pH of about 5, and wherein the cosmetic cleansing composition, when applied to keratinous tissue, demonstrates cleansing of long-lasting foundation and lipstick.
10. A cosmetic cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one amphoteric surfactant comprises (i) cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, (ii) coco-betaine present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%, or combinations thereof, and wherein the cationic polymer is chitosan present in a range of about 0.01% to about 5%, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprising one or more co-emulsifiers, and one or a combination of water-based solvents, and wherein the one or more co-emulsifiers are selected from polyglyceryl-4 caprate, glyceryl caprylate, or a combination thereof, present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of about 0.05% to about 10%and wherein (a) at least one cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, guar or a combination thereof, the cosmetic cleansing composition including a mixture of water-soluble solvents comprising glycerin present at approximately 1%, and pentylene glycol present at approximately 3%, or (b) at least one cationic polymer is po-, lylysine, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprising a mixture of solvents selected from the group consisting of (i) glycerin present at approximately 1%, pentylene glycol present at approximately 1.5% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, (ii) glycerin present at approximately 1%, butylene glycol present at approximately 3% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, (iii) glycerin present at approximately 1%, triethyl citrate present at approximately 2.5% and caprylyl glycol present at approximately 0.5%, (iv) glycerin present at approximately 1%, triethyl citrate present at approximately 3% and propylene glycol present at approximately 3%, and (v) a combination thereof.