METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING POWDERED COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for producing cosmetic products comprising at least the following steps: drying (2, 20) the pellets (1) to a water activity (AW) of less than 0.6, allowing them to cool (3) to room temperature, grinding (4, 40) the dried pellets to a powder (6) of the desired particle size, incorporating (7, 70) at least one solid (8, 80) or liquid (9, 90) ingredient into the powder (6), mixing (10, 100) the powder (6) and the ingredients (8, 80, 9, 90), and packaging (12) the mixture (6B). Figure to be published with the abstract: Fig. 1

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING POWDERED COSMETIC PRODUCTS

[0001] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing powdered cosmetic products.

[0002] Here, the term "cosmetic products" refers to cleaning or detergent products, particularly for human use, such as hand, body, face, and hair washes, shower gels, or shampoos. Solid cosmetic products such as soaps and liquid cosmetic products such as shower gels or shampoos are well known.

[0003] These types of products are bulky to transport and store and require dedicated packaging. Furthermore, for products in liquid or paste form, the presence of water limits their shelf life. FR-B-3 064 916 discloses a shower gel that is reconstituted from powder. Such a gel is in powder form, based on soap flakes with additives. The end user simply adds water, after placing the powder in a container, to obtain a ready-to-use gel. To produce such a powder, the soap flakes are specifically manufactured. Indeed, the industrially available soap paste base has characteristics that do not allow its direct use in producing the powder that is the subject of the invention according to FR-B-3 064 916.The present invention relates to the industrial production of cosmetic powder, usable according to the known invention of FR-B-3 064 916, from soap paste in the form of soap pellets available on the market. For the record, the term "soapy pellet" refers to soap paste, generally in the form of flakes, cylinders, or pellets, used industrially or semi-industrially as a base for manufacturing various cosmetic or cleaning products.

[0004] The invention aims to provide a method for manufacturing powdered cosmetic products on an industrial scale and easily automated.

[0005] To this end, the invention relates to a process for producing powdered cosmetic products from soap pellets, characterized in that it comprises at least the following steps: - a) dry the noodles until the water activity or AW value is less than 0.6, - b) allow the dried pellets to cool to room temperature, - c) grind the pellets obtained in step b) until a powder of the desired particle size is obtained, - d) incorporate into the powder obtained in step c) at least one additional solid or liquid ingredient chosen from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollients, pH adjusters, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, UV filters, - e) mix the powder and the ingredients incorporated in step d) and - f) package the powdered mixture obtained in step e) into a container defined.

[0006] Thus, thanks to the invention, powdered cosmetic products with a long shelf life are produced due to the minimal water activity of the powder. This powder is obtained from a wet, industrially sourced raw material, in this case, soap noodles, which are readily available on the market. Such a process allows for automated production that is easily adaptable to various types of powdered cosmetic products.

[0007] According to advantageous, but not mandatory, aspects, such a manufacturing process may comprise one or more of the following steps:

[0008] Drying is carried out by fixed or rotary dryers known per se.

[0009] Step c) of grinding is followed, if necessary, by a sieving step before step d) of mixing.

[0010] After step e) of mixing and before step f) of conditioning, a further sieving step is carried out on the mixture obtained in step e).

[0011] In another embodiment, a step g) of incorporating at least one solid or liquid ingredient selected from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollients, pH correctors, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, anti-UV filters into the pellets is carried out prior to the pellet drying step similar to step a).

[0012] At least one additional step h) of cutting the pellets into which ingredients have been incorporated during step g) is carried out before a drying similar to step a).

[0013] Other advantages besides these will become clear upon reading the following description, given only by way of non-limiting example, and reference is made to the attached drawing in which:

[0014] Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of two embodiments of the process manufacturing process, the object of the invention.

[0015] The two embodiments will now be described, it being understood that both embodiments are automatable and are implemented by apparatus and devices known per se. Furthermore, certain steps are common to both embodiments. of implementation. The choice of one or the other method of implementation depends, among other things, on the ingredients to be incorporated, the configuration of the production line and the presence or absence of storage of intermediate products in the process.

[0016] A first embodiment of the process is referred to as A and illustrated in the left-hand part of [Fig. 1]. The first step consists of carrying out a drying process, referred to as 2, of soap noodles 1. These noodles are obtained commercially and are either used directly upon delivery or after temporary storage. The noodles 1 represent a particular form of industrial soap paste. They are solid, pasty elements of small dimensions, in the form of chips, pellets, granules, cylinders, or noodles. Due to their configuration and composition, the noodles 1 have a relatively high moisture content, on the order of 11% to 15% by weight.

[0017] Drying 2 of the noodles 1 allows for optimized use, while limiting the risk of clogging and / or blockage of the equipment used. Drying 2 is carried out at a temperature between 40°C and 80°C, advantageously close to 60°C, for a duration of between 10 and 20 hours, advantageously close to 18 hours. In all cases, regardless of the drying conditions 2 and / or the equipment used, for example, one or more plate dryers and / or one or more rotary dryers, the drying must be carried out under optimal hygiene conditions, respecting the manufacturing criteria in force in the cosmetics industry. Furthermore, the drying conditions and / or equipment must not alter the physicochemical characteristics of the noodles 1.

[0018] Once drying step 2 has resulted in a final water activity (AW) value of less than 0.6 for the dry product, drying step 2 is stopped. As a reminder, water activity represents the free water in a product. It varies between 0 and 1 and is defined as the ratio of the partial pressure of water vapor in a product to the saturated vapor pressure of pure water at the same temperature. The preservation and stability of non-mineral products are linked to water activity. For example, most pathogenic bacteria grow at AW values ​​greater than 0.91.

[0019] In a second step 3, the noodles 1 are left to rest either in the dryers or in suitable containers to prevent any degradation and / or contamination. This step 3 allows the noodles 1 to cool naturally to ambient temperature, i.e., to a temperature close to 20°C. The second step 3 has a minimum duration of approximately 4 hours. The subsequent steps will be carried out in a dedicated production area, maintaining the lowest possible relative humidity in order to keep the water activity level of the noodles 1 below 0.6, i.e., the value obtained at the end of the first step.

[0020] The next step consists of grinding the dry pellets at room temperature. This step is carried out using mills known per se, for example, disc or knife mills. In all cases, the grinding is performed so as to obtain, after sieving if necessary, a powder with a desired particle size, for example, close to 20 mesh. It is easy to understand that the final particle size can vary depending on the needs and desired characteristics of the final powder. The powder can be used directly after grinding and sieving, provided it is at room temperature.

[0021] In an alternative not shown, once grinding 4 and, if necessary, sieving 5 have been carried out, the dry, powdered pellets 6 at room temperature are stored under environmental conditions that prevent any increase in temperature and humidity, rather than being used directly in subsequent production. The next step consists of incorporating 7 of the ingredients, solid 8 or liquid 9, into the pellet powder 6 thus obtained. These ingredients 8, 9 are chosen, among others but not exclusively, from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollients, pH adjusters, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, and UV filters.Ingredients 8 in solid form, for example as powder, cylinders, granules, or other, are, if necessary, pre-ground at room temperature to prevent any temperature increase in the products, to obtain a final particle size close to that of the powder 6 of pellets, i.e., on the order of 20 mesh. For ingredients 9 in liquid form, for example vegetable oils or oil macerates, these are incorporated at room temperature with controlled stirring to avoid any clumping of powder or pellets. Incorporation 7 can be carried out mechanically, using a spray bar, a hopper, or other means. Once the ingredients are incorporated, the mixture 10 is homogenized by stirring with a mixer, for example, a rotary mixer. In all cases, the mixing 10 is carried out while avoiding any heating of the powder 6 and ensuring that the initial particle size of the powder 6 is maintained.For this purpose, if necessary, a sieving 11 is performed on the powder 6A obtained from the mixture 10 with ingredients 8, 9. It is easily understood that the order of incorporation 7 of ingredients 8, 9 may be different and adapted according to the ingredients incorporated. Similarly, the incorporation of ingredients 9 in liquid form, preferably oil-based, must not affect the moisture content or the particle size of the powder 6A. This implies that the concentration of the liquid ingredients 9 is controlled, as well as the incorporation conditions 7.

[0022] In a final step 12, the final product 6B, a powder with low water activity, is bagged or packaged in dedicated containers, which vary in terms of of volume and shape. In all cases, these packages, sachets or containers are hermetically sealed to prevent any re-moistening and contamination of the final 6B powdered product before its use, i.e. before the addition of water prior to its use.

[0023] Another embodiment, designated process B, is now described. It is illustrated in the right-hand part of [Fig. 1]. As noted, from a certain point onward, processes A and B are identical. The difference with process A concerns the drying and grinding. While in process A these steps take place at the beginning of the process, on the raw material, i.e., on the scraps, this is no longer the case with process B. The steps similar to those of process A have the same reference numeral multiplied by ten.

[0024] Here, the first step 70 is identical to the step of incorporating the liquid ingredients 90 and / or solid ingredients 80 into the pellets 1 as described for process A. Once the incorporation 70 has been initially carried out at room temperature, the mixture, pellets 1 and ingredients 80, 90, is blended 100, in a manner similar to that described for process A. The following steps are carried out using equipment known per se. These steps transform the products into a powder with a desired particle size of approximately 20 mesh and with a water activity (AW) value of less than 0.6. To achieve this, the pellets 1 mixed with the ingredients are refined 13, extruded 14, and cut 15 using techniques and equipment known per se. At the end of the cutting stage, drying 20 and then grinding 40 are carried out in a known manner as described for process A, in order to obtain a powder 60A having a water activity or AW less than 0.6.From the next step, sieving 11, the two processes are identical.

[0025] Process B is particularly advantageous because it facilitates the incorporation of the ingredients, as both the ingredients and the pellets are in their initial states, thus retaining a certain level of water activity. It also facilitates the mixing of the ingredients with the pellets, eliminating the risk of powder clumping. However, this requires that the various ingredients used can withstand the drying process carried out in the subsequent step without any alteration of their organoleptic and / or physicochemical properties. In all cases, care must be taken to maintain the optimal ambient temperature for all ingredients and pellets throughout the incorporation, mixing, extrusion, and cutting processes, thereby preventing any temperature increase.

Claims

Demands

1. A process (A, B) for producing powdered cosmetic products from soap noodles (1), characterized in that it comprises at least the following steps: - a) drying (2, 20) the noodles (1) between 40°C and 80°C for a period of between 10 and 20 hours until the water activity (AW) is less than 0.6 and maintaining this value in subsequent steps, - b) allowing the dried noodles (1) to cool (3) for at least 4 hours to an ambient temperature close to 20°C, - c) grinding (4, 40) the noodles (1) obtained in step b) at ambient temperature until a powder (6) of the desired particle size close to 20 Mesh is obtained, - d) incorporating (7, 70) into the powder (6) obtained in step c), avoiding any heating of the powder and now the particle size thereof, at least one additional solid (8, 80) or liquid (9, 90) ingredient chosen from perfumes, thickening agents,foaming agents, emollients, pH adjusters, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, UV filters, - e) mix (10, 100) the powder (6) and the ingredients (8, 80, 9, 90) incorporated in step d) avoiding any heating of the powder and maintaining its particle size and - f) package (12) the powdered mixture (6B) obtained in step e) in a defined container.

2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the drying (2, 20) is carried out by fixed or rotary dryers known per se.

3. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that step c) of grinding (4, 40) is followed if necessary by a sieving step (5) before step d) of mixing.

4. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that after step e) of mixing (10, 100) and before step f) of conditioning (12), a additional sieving step (11) is carried out on the mixture (6A, 60A) obtained in step e).

5. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that in one embodiment (B), a step g) of incorporating (70) into the noodles (1) at least one additional solid (80) or liquid (90) ingredient selected from perfumes, thickening agents, foaming agents, emollients, pH correctors, colorants, preservatives, surfactants, texturizing agents, fixatives, opacifiers, exfoliants, anti-UV filters is carried out prior to the drying step (20) of the noodles (1) similar to step a).

6. A process according to claim 5, characterized in that at least one additional step h) of cutting (15) the pellets into which ingredients (80, 90) have been incorporated during step g) is carried out before a drying similar to step a).

Images