Composition comprising a (bi)carbonate, a silicate and a fatty substance in a particular proportion
A composition of (bi)carbonates, silicates, and fatty substances addresses the issues of undesirable tones, hair degradation, and uneven application in hair lightening, offering a sustainable solution for effective and easy bleaching and coloring.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-26
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising a (bi)carbonate, a silicate and a fatty substance in a particular proportion
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more (bi)carbonate(s), one or more silicate(s) and one or more fatty substances in a particular content.
[0002] The invention also relates to a method for lightening human keratin fibers using such a composition.
[0003] In the field of hair lightening, tone level is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately preceding or following it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and are published in the book "Sciences des traitements cheveux" by Charles ZVIAK, 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.
[0004] The tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.
[0005] Lightening thus makes it possible to bring a tone height lighter than the initial natural tone height of the hair.
[0006] The processes used to lighten hair generally consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
[0007] The role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the hair fibers. Thus, for relatively slight lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, particularly lightening of at least 5 shades, peroxide salts, such as persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxide salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition including hydrogen peroxide. However, the lightening obtained by such a combination is not always satisfactory because it results in hair with unattractive yellow / orange tones, which complicates subsequent coloring by limiting it to achieving warm tones.
[0008] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent into the fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the reaction.
[0009] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxide salts can lead to a deterioration in hair quality. The main causes of this deterioration are a decrease in cosmetic properties, such as shine, and a degradation of mechanical properties, particularly a reduction in mechanical resistance, which can also result in increased porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying. An increase in frizz, which is unsightly, is also observed.
[0010] Lightening dark hair is therefore particularly delicate because it requires the use of a large amount of peroxygenated salts if one wishes to lighten them strongly, which can weaken them.
[0011] In addition, lightening compositions applied to very curly hair tend to alter the shape of the curls, which generally have a less defined appearance.
[0012] Furthermore, compositions containing peroxygenated salts are generally in powder form. However, since powdered compositions have the disadvantage of producing dust during handling, transport, and storage, paste-like compositions have been proposed. The powdered compounds are thus dispersed in a thickened, inert, organic liquid support, which provides a solution to the volatility problems.
[0013] On the other hand, the implementation of compositions in paste form causes new difficulties.
[0014] These pastes are generally anhydrous and have a compact, hard texture. Consequently, mixing the paste with the hydrogen peroxide composition is far from easy. This results not only in a longer mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous and stable mixture.
[0015] Furthermore, the lightening compositions obtained may be difficult to distribute evenly over the entire head of hair, particularly curly or frizzy hair, which may lead to undesirable uneven lightening performance.
[0016] Furthermore, persulfate-based compositions are generally not chemically compatible with the presence of oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes to be able to bleach and color the hair fiber in a single step step. Thus, when it is desired to simultaneously bleach and color keratin fibers, a two-step process is generally used with a first step of bleaching the keratin fibers followed by a second step of coloring the keratin fibers using a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dyes and / or one or more oxidation dyes.
[0017] Finally, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern to help meet planetary challenges.
[0018] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.
[0019] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to provide a composition that allows for the effective lightening of keratin fibers, particularly dark keratin fibers, with improved neutralization of yellow and / or orange tones. Such a composition should also be more respectful of fiber quality, notably by minimizing degradation, and exhibit excellent performance characteristics, particularly by being easy to mix with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition before use, the resulting mixture also being easy to apply to the keratin fibers.
[0020] Finally, such a composition must also be compatible with the presence of direct and / or oxidation dyes in order to obtain good color development, natural shades with chromatic reflections and also to allow a wider range of colors to be achieved.
[0021] This objective and others are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and their mixtures; - one or more silicates; and - one or more fats in a total content exceeding 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a keratin fiber lightening composition, preferably human, preferably hair.
[0023] The invention also relates to a lightening method employing said composition, the use of the composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair, as well as a device for several compartments, suitable for the implementation of said lightening composition.
[0024] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain effective lightening of keratin fibers, without major alteration of the cosmetic properties of the hair, with improved qualities of use.
[0025] In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain effective lightening of keratin fibers with a more neutralized (less yellow) and more natural result.
[0026] The composition according to the invention mixes quickly and easily with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition to obtain a homogeneous and stable mixture. The resulting mixture is easily applied to the hair. Its smooth, creamy consistency helps prevent dripping during application while spreading easily throughout the hair, even in very curly hair. Furthermore, the mixture does not dry out during the application time, ensuring optimal availability of the active ingredients throughout the entire application period. In addition, the mixture rinses out easily.
[0027] The cosmetic properties of hair treated with the composition according to the invention do not show any major alteration, particularly in terms of softness and detangling. The composition specifically conditions the hair and reduces breakage during detangling, especially in very curly hair. When applied to very curly hair, it also helps maintain curl shape by providing good definition. The composition also provides good frizz control.
[0028] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.
[0029] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0030] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0031] The expressions "lightening" and "bleaching" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably. Compounds C
[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds C selected from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds C selected from carbonates, bicarbonates and mixtures thereof.
[0034] More preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds C selected from ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Preferably, the compound(s) C are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0036] Carbonates and / or carbonate-generating systems
[0037] The compound(s) C present in the composition may be chosen from carbonates, carbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from carbonates.
[0038] By "carbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates carbonate in situ such as carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.
[0039] When present in the composition, carbonates are preferably chosen from: - alkali metal carbonates; - alkaline earth metal carbonates; - lanthanide carbonates; - transition metal carbonates; - bismuth carbonate; - cadmium carbonate; - thallium carbonate; - zinc carbonate; - compounds of formula (N+R'R2R3R4)2, CO32 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group; - guanidine carbonate; - their mixtures.
[0040] More preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, barium carbonate, strontium carbonate, cerium carbonate, lanthanum carbonate, yttrium carbonate, copper(II) carbonate, manganese carbonate, nickel carbonate, silver carbonate, zirconium carbonate, bismuth carbonate, carbonate of cadmium, thallium carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate, tetraethylammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Even more preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, cerium carbonate, manganese carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Most preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, ammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0043] In a particularly preferred manner, the carbonate included in the composition is ammonium carbonate.
[0044] Bicarbonates and / or bicarbonate generating systems
[0045] The compound(s) C present in the composition are preferably chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from bicarbonates.
[0046] By "bicarbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates bicarbonate in situ such as carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.
[0047] When present in the composition, bicarbonates are preferably chosen from: - alkaline metal bicarbonates; - alkaline earth metal bicarbonates; - compounds of formula N+RiR2R3R4, HCO3 in which RB R2, R3 and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group; - aminoguanidine bicarbonate; - their mixtures.
[0048] More preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0049] Even more preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] Most preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] In a particularly preferred manner, the bicarbonate included in the composition is ammonium bicarbonate.
[0052] Bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water.
[0053] When present in the composition, the bicarbonate(s) and / or the bicarbonate generating system(s) are preferably present in a total content of 5% to 80% by weight, preferably 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably 25% to 50% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0054] When present in the composition, the bicarbonate(s) are preferably present in a total content of 5% to 80% by weight, preferably 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably 25% to 50% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 40% by weight, preferably 30% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0055] When present in the composition, ammonium bicarbonate is preferably present in a total content of 5% to 80% by weight, preferably 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably 25% to 50% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicates
[0056] The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more silicates.
[0057] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.
[0058] By "water-soluble silicate" is meant a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.
[0059] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] More preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof.
[0061] Even more preferably, the silicate or silicates are chosen from among sodium silicates.
[0062] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from the compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]).
[0063] The silicate(s) are present in the composition preferably in a total content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 15% to 55% by weight, most preferably ranging from 20% to 50% by weight, better from 25% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more silicates selected from compounds with the INCI name Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate, in a total content of at least 15% by weight, preferably from 15% to 60% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 55% by weight, most preferably from 20% to 50% by weight, better from 25% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty body
[0065] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances.
[0066] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0067] Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0068] Preferably the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.
[0069] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.
[0070] The fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or less at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0071] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In this application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0072] More particularly, the liquid fat or fats according to the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Cl6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0073] It is recalled that fatty alcohols and esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0074] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0075] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.
[0077] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.
[0079] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0081] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0082] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0083] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.
[0084] Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and the esters of acids mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.
[0085] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acid sugars, preferably C12 to C22. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0087] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.
[0088] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0089] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0090] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.
[0091] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0093] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0094] The silicone oils usable in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.106 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.105 at 1 m2 / s.
[0095] Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0096] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.
[0097] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0098] When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0099] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. This includes, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.
[0100] We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
[0101] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;
[0102] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atony and a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m² / s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name “SH 200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32 – TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.
[0103] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.
[0104] These silicone oils are more particularly selected from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main ones are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0105] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited by way of non-limiting example: - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA; - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0106] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.
[0107] Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.
[0108] With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.
[0109] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.
[0110] Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA; - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - silicones from the PK series by BAYER such as the PK20 product; - silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; - certain oils from the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0111] Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in Cl to C4; - alkoxylated groups, - hydroxyl groups.
[0112] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s*.
[0113] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0115] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0116] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0117] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); alcohol lignoceryl (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0118] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
[0119] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol esters.
[0120] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0121] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.
[0122] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0124] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or They diffuse light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0125] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.
[0126] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0127] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.
[0128] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0129] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0130] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.
[0131] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0132] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;
[0133] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Preferably, the waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Preferably, the waxes are chosen from polyethylene waxes, preferably from polyethylene waxes with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C, preferably, ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.
[0136] Among the usable polyethylene waxes, we can mention in particular that marketed under the name CIRE POLYETHYLENE AC 1702 by the company HONEYWELL, those marketed under the names PERFORMALENE® 500-L POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 400 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 655 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® SCRUB BEADS, PERFORMALENE® SE / 2 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 725 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 850 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 1000 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX by the company NUCERA SOLUTIONS.
[0137] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.
[0138] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used are subject to preference to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
[0139] RI denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0140] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0141] R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more Cl-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0142] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.
[0143] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0144] Compounds can also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0145] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy- 2-Hydroxypropyl(c)amide of cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine is used.
[0146] The solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0147] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
[0148] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0149] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly.
[0150] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fat, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly, and at least one solid fat, preferably at least one wax, even more preferably at least one polyethylene wax.
[0152] Preferably, the total content of the fat or fats in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 10.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, better greater than or equal to 20% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 25% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] Preferably, the total content of the fat or fats in the composition according to the invention ranges from 10.5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 12 to 50% by weight, preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, better from 20 to 35% by weight, even better from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0154] Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 10.5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 12 to 50% by weight, plus preferably 15 to 40% by weight, better 20 to 35% by weight, even better 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino acid compound(s)
[0155] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more amino acid-type compound(s).
[0156] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compound(s).
[0157] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being able to be intra-cyclic, possibly in the form of a salt.
[0158] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.
[0159] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.
[0160] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to the formula (I): COOH (I) H.......C ....... N(H)P R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
[0161] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.
[0162] Preferably, p=2.
[0163] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
[0164] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.
[0165] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).
[0166] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.
[0167] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.
[0168] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.
[0169] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.
[0170] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.
[0171] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and mixtures thereof.
[0172] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.
[0173] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound is glycine.
[0174] When the composition includes one or more amino acid compound(s), the total content of amino acid compound(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, preferably still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Poly)carboxylic acids
[0179] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compound(s) previously described, one of their salts or mixtures thereof.
[0180] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compound(s) previously described, one of their salts or mixtures thereof.
[0181] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is / are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of the following formula (II):
[0182] Formula (II) wherein: - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0) hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups.
[0183] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.
[0184] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.
[0185] In particular, cite carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which: - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.
[0186] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be selected from: - citric acid (n=2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2- ) ; - salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH); - lactic acid (n=0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3); and - tartaric acid (n=l and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).
[0187] Even more preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.
[0188] When the composition comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or its salts, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or its salts shall be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0189] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0190] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.
[0191] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.
[0192] An "anionic surfactant" is defined as a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These groups Anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.
[0193] By way of examples of anionic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acylactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds;The alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally consist of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group generally designates a phenyl group.
[0194] Among anionic surfactants, we can also mention fatty acid salts, especially C8-C24, preferably C12-C20, different from the (poly)carboxylic acids previously described.
[0195] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0196] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0197] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
[0198] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0199] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.
[0200] Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.
[0201] With regard to mild anionic surfactants, particular examples may be given to the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; uronic alkyl D galactoside acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters.
[0202] In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.
[0203] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, preferred use are sulfated surfactants such as alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkylsulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.
[0204] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are preferably non-siliconized and may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0205] In particular, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0206] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective structures (III) and (IV):
[0207] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;
[0208] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0209] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0210] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0211] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra''-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra” represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in the C10 to C30 position of an acid Ra”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.
[0212] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0213] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0214] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof are advantageously used; and preferably alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
[0215] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
[0216] The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
[0217] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols; - alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably include one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and glycerol, - fatty acid and sucrose esters, - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C3O)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - A-alkyl(C8-C3o)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C3o)-methylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides.
[0218] They are chosen, in particular, from among alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C 2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0219] Other examples include ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs; polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; oxyethylenated vegetable oils; N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0220] Esters (in particular mono-, di-, tri-esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.
[0221] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably selected from C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0222] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) is / are selected from Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular from oxyethylenated lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and sorbitan esters.
[0223] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) and oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are selected from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (POLYSORBATE-81), oxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-65), oxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).
[0224] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably selected from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, C6-C24 (alkyl) polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and glycerol, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferably from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, C6-C24 (alkyl) polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and glycerol.
[0225] The cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0226] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines usable according to the invention, examples include stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.
[0227] Quaternary ammonium salts may be cited in particular, for example:
[0228] - those corresponding to the following general formula (VI): wherein the R8 to Ru groups, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from alkyl groups in Cl-C3O, alkoxy groups in CrC3O, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide groups in CrC3O, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl groups in CrC3O, X 'is a anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), preference is given on the one hand to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
[0229] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of The following formula (VII): in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(CrC4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example, derived from tallow fatty acids; R14 designates a methyl group; and R15 designates a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.
[0230] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (VIII) next:
[0231] in which R16 designates an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms possibly hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+ group. (R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Examples of such compounds include Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75). - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula (IX): ---Rag (IX) C (O—Qf N--(CjH^ (OH) ~™ O) R^ in which: R22 is chosen from among the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from among: the -C(O)R26 group, the C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from among: the -C(O)R28 group, the C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1;r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 designates R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 designates R29. ; R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from among the C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The X- anion is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide, or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4) sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)-, or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible ester anion may be used. The X- anion is more specifically chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (IX) are used in particular, wherein: R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the -C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds with formula (IX) include salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived particularly from a Vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol. Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180, can also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among cationic surfactants, preference is given to cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0232] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably from anionic surfactants.
[0233] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof, better from alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof.
[0234] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from alkylsulfates.
[0235] When the composition includes one or more surfactant(s), the total surfactant content in the composition will preferably be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.75 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] When the composition includes one or more non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s), the total content of non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s) in the composition shall preferably be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.75 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymers
[0237] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more associative polymers.
[0238] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers.
[0239] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0240] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0241] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0242] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0243] The associative polymer can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0244] Among the anionic-type associative polymers, the following may be mentioned:
[0245] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif, and at least one ether motif of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif is made up of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly still of a vinylic carboxylic acid and especially of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0246] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, are particularly preferred according to the invention. 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.
[0247] Among these, crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, especially those sold by CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90®, which are aqueous emulsions of 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0248] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl (C10-C30) ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
[0249] Alkyl (C10-C30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0250] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
[0251] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, more particularly those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above, will be used.
[0252] Among the aforementioned polymers, the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, the product sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER), the product sold by SEPC under the name COATEX SX®, and even more preferably CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER®, are particularly preferred according to the present invention.
[0253] We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.
[0254] - (c) maleic anhydride / α-olefin terpolymers in C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.
[0255] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising: i) about 20 to 70% by weight of an unsaturated α,[3-monoethylenic [α], ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated monomer other than [α], iii) approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40OE) in 25% aqueous dispersion.
[0256] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an ester of carboxylic acid with unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0257] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.
[0258] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by ROHM and HAAS, or ACULYN 28® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.
[0259] - (f) Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
[0260] Monomers with ethylenic unsaturation and a sulfonic group are selected in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0261] More preferably, alkylsulfonic (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22) acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-propane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentane-sulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptane-sulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0262] In particular, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.
[0263] Polymers of this family may in particular be selected from statistical amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their [3]-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
[0264] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.
[0265] These same copolymers may further contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, their [3]-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
[0266] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, US patent 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima: - “Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336.”; - « Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, N° 10 (2000), 3694-3704 » ; - « Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte : sait effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir,, Vol. 16, N°12, (2000) 5324-5332» ; - « Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221».
[0267] Parmi ces polymères, on peut citer : - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899; - terpolymers comprising 10 to 90 mole percent of acrylamide motifs, 0.1 to 10 mole percent of AMPS motifs and 5 to 80 mole percent of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5089578.
[0268] We can also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the articles by Morishima cited above.
[0269] Among the anionic associative polymers according to the invention, preferred are polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the type of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the type of alkyl (C10-C30) ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid (family b)), and copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol (family e)).
[0270] Among cationic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned:
[0271] (a) cationic associative polyurethanes;
[0272] (b) the compound marketed by NOVEON under the name AQUA CC and which corresponds to the INCI name POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER.
[0273] POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: a di(C1-C4)amino(C1-C6)alkyl methacrylate, one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide motif), a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, a C2-C6 hydroxy(alkyl) methacrylate, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0274] (c) the (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses quantified and modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups with at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals present in the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably have from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) products sold by AQUALON, CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (Cl8 alkyl) products sold by CRODA, and SOFTCAT SL 100® product sold by AQUALON.
[0275] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.
[0276] Such polymers are described for example in patent application WO-00 / 68282.
[0277] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethyl-methacrylamide tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate or chloride terpolymers.
[0278] Amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic motif. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 moles % of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 moles % and more particularly 1.5 to 6 moles %, relative to the total number of moles of monomers, are preferred.
[0279] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in patent application WO 9844012.
[0280] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers are preferred.
[0281] The non-ionic associative polymers usable according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
[0282] (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat, of which we can cite as an example: - ANTARON V216® or GANEX V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP - ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company ISP
[0283] (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and Amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208®. Or the copolymer with the INCI name "acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer", such as the product Novethix L-10 polymer from Lubrizol.
[0284] (c) copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and monomers hydrophobics comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
[0285] (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain both sequences hydrophilic, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.
[0286] (e) aminoplast ether backbone polymers having at least one chain oily, such as the PURE THIX® compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.
[0287] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at minus a fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof where the alkyl groups are in C8- and in particular: * Non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl Cl6) products sold by AQUALON * non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the AMERCELL HM-1500 product sold by the company AMERCHOL; * non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL;
[0288] (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified by a fat chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain in C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain in Cl4) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain in C20) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0289] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a In a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be dangling chains or end chains. Specifically, one or more dangling chains may be present. Furthermore, the polymer may contain a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.
[0290] Polyurethane polyethers can be multi-sequenced, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multi-sequenced copolymer). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.
[0291] Nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
[0292] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.
[0293] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers usable in the invention, Rhéolate 205® with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®, can also be used.
[0294] We can also mention the ELFACOS T210® product with Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the ELFACOS T212® product with C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.
[0295] The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.
[0296] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in hydroalcoholic media. For example, RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278, and RHEOLATE® 244, sold by RHEOX, are examples of such polymers. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, offered by ROHM & HAAS, can also be used.
[0297] Polyurethane polyethers usable according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).
[0298] More particularly, a polyurethane polyether is preferred, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
[0299] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
[0300] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.
[0301] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) is or are chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers.
[0302] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the type of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the type of alkyl (C10-C30) ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid, copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0303] When the composition includes one or more associative polymer(s), the total content of associative polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0304] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more associative polymer(s) selected from anionic associative polymers, preferably from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-associative polysaccharides
[0305] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which are therefore different from the associative polymers above.
[0306] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may also include one or more non-associative polysaccharides.
[0307] In the present invention, "polysaccharide" means a polymer consisting of sugar units. "Sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units may be modified by substitution, and / or oxidation, and / or dehydration.
[0308] The sugar motifs that can be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0309] The following polymers, alone or in mixtures, may be cited in particular as examples of non-associative polysaccharides: a) exudates from trees or shrubs, including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae, including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) polymers extracted from plants, including: - celluloses (polymers of glucose); - starches (polymers of glucose) and - inulin.
[0310] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include, in particular, heat treatment. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.
[0311] In particular, guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.
[0312] The guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups. Examples of C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed per number of free hydroxyl groups present on the guar gum.
[0313] Such guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0314] The starches usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, and tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0315] Preferably, starch phosphates will be used, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).
[0316] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used; these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; Preferably, they are linked to the same reactive site. Anionic groups can be carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate, and preferably carboxylic. Cationic groups can be primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amines.
[0317] The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention can be cellulosic polymers.
[0318] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0319] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.
[0320] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.
[0321] Among these cellulosic polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.
[0322] Among cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, or phosphates...), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates, or acetatetrimellitates), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyrates and acetatepropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0323] Among the cellulose ethers, we may mention (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by ASHLAND) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.
[0324] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.
[0325] Among cationic cellulose ethers, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, may be cited, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, like hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more specifically the products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0326] Preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, guar gums, starches, preferably from celluloses.
[0327] Better still, the non-associative polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters, and preferably from cellulose ethers.
[0328] In a particularly preferred manner, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are selected from (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.
[0329] When the composition comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides, the total content of non-associative polysaccharides is preferably from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0330] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-associative polysaccharide(s) selected from cellulosic polymers in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0331] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-associative polysaccharide(s) selected from cellulose ethers in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Direct dyes
[0332] The composition may further comprise one or more direct colorants. The direct colorants may be synthetic or natural.
[0333] Synthetic direct dyes are for example chosen from those classically used in direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, xanthenic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine and their mixtures.
[0334] Among the benzene nitro direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. ;
[0335] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0336] Among the direct hydrazono colorants, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.
[0337] Among the aryl nitro direct dyes, we can mention: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenyl enediamine.
[0338] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; tetrabromophenol blue.
[0339] Among the xanthenic dyes, we can mention: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52.
[0340] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0341] Among the direct azinic dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0342] Among the indoamine direct dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino- 5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.
[0343] Natural direct colorants are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morine, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.
[0344] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, Mangiferin, butein, Maritimetin, Sulfurtin, Robtein, betanin, Pericampylinone A., Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, Proanthocyanidin Cl, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic acid, Purpurogalline, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and the natural extracts containing them.
[0345] The direct colorant(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0346] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of colouring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferably less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0347] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition (A) is free of coloring agents.
[0348] By "coloring agent" is meant an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.
[0349] The term "oxidation dye" means an oxidation dye precursor selected from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are slightly or colorless compounds which, through a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species. Seizuring agent
[0350] The composition according to the invention may include one or more sequestering (or chelating) agent(s).
[0351] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestering agent(s).
[0352] The definition of a "sequestering agent" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, that is, it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (forming a ring including the metal ion).
[0353] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0354] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, and other acids. polyphosphorics, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0355] The salts include, in particular, salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0356] By way of example of a carboxylic acid-based sequestrant, the following compounds may be cited: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), the N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133),iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid-based chelating agents (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Akzo's Dissolvine GL38 or 45S Nobel.
[0357] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate
[0358] Examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0359] According to one embodiment, the useful sequestering agent(s) according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestering agents, that is to say, sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0360] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
[0361] - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably selected from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
[0362] - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as (poly)phosphates and organic (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and their mixtures.
[0363] Preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0364] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from inorganic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, preferably from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0365] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from organic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metals such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0366] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0367] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are selected from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.
[0368] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
[0369] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.
[0370] When the composition includes one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional alkalizing agents
[0371] The composition may further include one or more additional alkalizing agents other than (bi)carbonates and silicates as defined above.
[0372] The additional alkalizing agent(s) may be mineral or organic. They may be selected from i) ammonia, ii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, iii) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, iv) mineral or organic hydroxides, v) amino acids of preferred basicity such as arginine, lysine, omithine, citrulline and histidine, and vi) compounds of the following formula (X): Ra\ ,Rb N Wn' in which:
[0373] - W is a divalent (Cl-C8)alkylene group, preferably propylene, possibly substituted in particular by a hydroxy group or an alkyl radical in C1-C4;
[0374] - Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or Cl-C4 (poly)hydroxy alkyl;
[0375] vii) and their mixtures.
[0376] Mineral or organic hydroxides are preferably selected from i) alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, ii) alkaline earth metal hydroxides, iii) transition metal hydroxides, such as hydroxides of group III, IV, V and VI metals, iv) lanthanide or actinide hydroxides.
[0377] When present in the composition, the additional alkalizing agent(s) preferably represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.005% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0378] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not include an additional alkalizing agent selected from ammonia and / or alkanolamines. Persulfates
[0379] Preferably, the composition comprises a total persulfate content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0380] Preferably, the composition is free of persulfates. Solvent
[0381] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one organic solvent.
[0382] Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0383] When the composition includes one or more organic solvents, the total content of the organic solvent(s) shall preferably be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0384] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition that contains little or no water, in particular less than 0.5% water, better less than 0.1% water, even better less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% water, by weight of the total composition. In particular, the composition does not include any water added during its preparation; any water present may be supplied by the raw materials used during its preparation. Additives
[0385] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention, and among which may be mentioned polymers, other than associative polymers and polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives.
[0386] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).
[0387] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0388] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of hydrogen peroxide.
[0389] By hydrogen peroxide-free, it is understood that the composition according to the invention does not contain (0%) hydrogen peroxide.
[0390] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free from chemical oxidizing agents other than the peroxygenated salts described above.
[0391] The composition according to the invention is preferably intended to be mixed with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.
[0392] Before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cream.
[0393] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, has a viscosity greater than or equal to 100 poises (100 Pa.s), preferably greater than or equal to 130 poises (130 Pa.s), preferably still between 130 and 250 poises (130 and 250 Pa.s), measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹; this viscosity being able to be determined by means of a Thermo Haake RS600 rotary rheometer, equipped with a 0.35 mm plane-plane geometry with a 1 mm air gap. Method
[0394] The present invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair.
[0395] The method according to the invention comprises: (i) a step of mixing a composition A according to the invention as described above with a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i) to said keratin fibers.
[0396] The composition resulting from the mixture in step (i) is called the ready-to-use composition.
[0397] This ready-to-use composition may include one or more of the ingredients described above. This ready-to-use composition may also include water, in particular from the composition containing hydrogen peroxide.
[0398] Preferably, the ready-to-use composition is also in the form of a cream.
[0399] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12.
[0400] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, or optionally washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0401] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0402] Preferably, compositions A and B are mixed in a weight ratio A / B of 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.3 to 1.5, better 0.5 to 1.
[0403] Preferably, composition B comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 0.5 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of composition B.
[0404] Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.
[0405] It may also include one or more organic solvents selected from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight.
[0406] Composition B also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0407] Composition B preferably comprises one or more fats such as those described above, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
[0408] Composition B may also include surfactants and thickening polymers.
[0409] Usually, the pH of composition B, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 4.5.
[0410] According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises: (i) a step of mixing a composition A according to the invention as described above with a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide as described above, and a composition C comprising one or more direct dyes; (ii) an application step on said keratin fibers of the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).
[0411] The composition resulting from the mixture in step (i) is called the ready-to-use composition. Kit
[0412] Another object of the invention is a device with at least two compartments for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition A as described above and at least a second compartment containing a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide as described above, and optionally a third compartment containing a composition C comprising one or more direct dyes.
[0413] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.
[0414] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0415] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for the lightening of keratin fibers, and in particular of hair.
[0416] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0417] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions A and Al
[0418] Composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition A1 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:
[0419] [Tables 1] A (invention) Al (comparative) SODIUM SILICATE 27.2 27.2 AMMONIUM BICARBONATE 35.0 35.0 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 0.75 ACRYLATE / C10-C30 ALKYL ACR YLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.75 0.75 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.0 1.0 DISODIUM EDTA 0.5 0.5 MINERAL OIL 29.0 8.0 POLYETHYLENE* 1.9 1.9 CITRIC ACID 0.6 0.6 GLYCINE 3.3 3.3 GLYCERYL STEARATE Qs 100 Qs 100
[0420] * PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX marketed by NUCERA SOLUTIONS
[0421] At the time of use, compositions A and A1 were respectively mixed with L'Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio Oil-developer 30 volume H2O2 (oxidizing composition B) in a weight ratio of 1+1.5, to obtain mixtures M and ML respectively.
[0422] Composition A is a homogeneous cream which mixes very quickly with oxidizing composition B to obtain mixture M in the form of a homogeneous cream.
[0423] Composition Al is a sandy powder, and the mixing time of composition Al with oxidizing composition B is much longer. The resulting mixture Ml also has a granular appearance.
[0424] Each of the mixtures M and Ml was then applied to a strand of natural brown hair (level 4) at a ratio of 10g of mixture to 1g of hair strand.
[0425] Mixture M is easier to apply than mixture ML
[0426] After a 50 min drying time at 33°C, the strands were rinsed, then washed and dried at 60°C in an oven. Colorimetric measurements
[0427] Hair lightening is evaluated in the L*a*b* system, with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectro-colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0428] In this system, L* represents brightness, a* represents the red / green axis, and b* the yellow / blue axis. The higher the value of L*, the brighter the result. Results
[0429] [Tables3] L* Control (untreated strands) 22.23 M (invention) 63.83 Ml (comparative) 59.5
[0430] Mixture M according to the invention leads to better hair lightening than mixture Ml while also leading to good neutralization of yellow and / or orange tones.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: - one or more compounds C selected from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof; - one or more silicates in a total content of 10 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - one or more fats in a total content of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the compound(s) C are selected from bicarbonates, bicarbonate generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.
3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the bicarbonates are selected from: - alkali metal bicarbonates; - alkaline earth metal bicarbonates; - compounds of formula N+R*R2R3R4, HCO3 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - aminoguanidine bicarbonate; - mixtures thereof; preferably from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof;more preferably among sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably among sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the bicarbonate is ammonium bicarbonate.;
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein compound(s) C are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 60%, better from 25% to 50%, better still from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicate(s) are selected from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium silicates, and even more preferably from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicate(s) are present in the composition in a total content of 15% to 55% by weight, more preferably of 20% to 50% by weight, better of 25% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the fat or fats are selected from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one liquid fat, preferably selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petrolatum, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petrolatum.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one solid fat, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total fat content is from 10.5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 12 to 50% by weight, preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, better from 20 to 35% by weight, even better from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the claims comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds, preferably selected from the compounds of formula (I), their salts and mixtures thereof: COOH (I) H — C — R Formula (I) wherein: ■ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; ■ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 groups, preferably 5 groups, this ring being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; ■ when p = 2, R represents: - a hydrogen atom; or - a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or substituted by at least one group selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
12. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the amino acid compound(s) are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, preferably from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, their salts and mixtures, more preferably from glycine, its salts and mixtures, even more preferably the amino acid compound is glycine.
13. Composition according to any one of claims 11 and 12, comprising said amino acid compound(s) in a total amount from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more (poly)carboxylic acids other than amino acid type compound(s), corresponding to the formula (II) below: r . (K) O OH AL HO js O in which: - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0) hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups; preferably, A being a monovalent or multivalent (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;in particular corresponding to formula (II) in which A is a (Cl-C6)alkylene group, preferably (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2; even better of formula (II) in which - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, preferably (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; preferably, chosen from citric acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid; more preferably, citric acid.
15. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids, preferably of acid citric, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a total persulfate content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably still less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even better the composition is free from persulfates.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition does not comprise hydrogen peroxide.
18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the composition comprises hydrogen peroxide.
19. A method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing the composition defined according to any one of claims 1 to 17 with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).
20. Device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 and at least a second compartment containing a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.
21. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.