Cosmetic composition containing an extract of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood and its use for depigmenting or whitening the skin

The Pterocarpus soyauxii wood extract, obtained via ultrasound-assisted extraction, effectively inhibits tyrosinase to reduce melanin production and hyperpigmentation, offering both depigmenting and anti-aging benefits in cosmetic applications.

FR3159523A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-08-29BOIDESSENCE OFFICINA INGREDIENTS
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024001966
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-02-28
Publication Date
2025-08-29

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

There is a need for cosmetic compositions that effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production and address skin pigmentation disorders, such as dark and colored spots, while also providing antioxidant and anti-aging benefits.

Method used

A cosmetic composition containing an extract of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood, obtained through ultrasound-assisted extraction in a mixture of water and glycerin, which is rich in ellagitannins and gallotannins, is used to inhibit tyrosinase activity and regulate melanin production.

Benefits of technology

The composition significantly inhibits tyrosinase activity, reducing melanin synthesis and hyperpigmentation, while also providing antioxidant and anti-aging effects, as demonstrated by its ability to inhibit melanin production and tyrosinase levels in human melanocytes.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

Cosmetic composition containing a Pterocarpus soyauxii wood extract and its use for depigmenting or whitening the skin The invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising a Pterocarpus soyauxii wood extract, as a skin depigmenting or whitening agent. The wood extract is present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, it comprises a significant proportion of ellagitannins and / or gallotannins. The extract is in particular a hydroglycerin extract obtained by extraction in a mixture of water and glycerin, preferably assisted by ultrasound. The invention also relates to a composition containing the wood extract, a non-therapeutic method for depigmenting or whitening the skin, and a non-therapeutic use. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition containing an extract of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood and its use for depigmenting or whitening the skin

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for cosmetic use containing an extract of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood, cosmetic products containing such a composition, their non-therapeutic use for depigmenting the skin and a non-therapeutic method for depigmenting the skin.

[0002] The close link between tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis is of crucial importance in the field of dermatological research, particularly with regard to the cosmetic industry. Tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the process of melanogenesis, plays a vital role in the conversion of L-tyrosine into L-DOPA, a precursor of melanin. This melanin is responsible for the coloration of the skin, hair and eyes. Therefore, the regulation of tyrosinase activity is a central point in the development of cosmetic products aimed at influencing skin pigmentation.

[0003] Natural molecules rich in tyrosinase inhibitory activity have been studied and used in the cosmetic industry to control skin pigmentation. For example, kojic acid, a derivative of the fungus Aspergillus oryzae, is known for its tyrosinase inhibitory activity. It has been widely used in cosmetic products to alleviate hyperpigmentation problems. In addition, flavonoids found in certain plants, such as arbutin from Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, have also shown an ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity. These natural compounds work by interfering with tyrosinase function, which can reduce melanin production and alleviate skin pigmentation problems.

[0004] Patent FR 2 761 595 describes compositions containing santalins, namely extracts of red wood of the genus Pterocarpus, for example P. santalinus, P. osun, P. soyauxii, P. erinaceus, P. indicus, as coloring agents to obtain a coloring of the skin close to tanning.

[0005] There remains a need for compositions having tyrosinase inhibition activity, capable of inducing a reduction or control of melanin production and of promoting or preventing skin pigmentation disorders.

[0006] Extracts of padouk wood Pterocarpus soyauxii obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction in a mixture of water and glycerin were found to contain a significant content of water-soluble tannins, in particular branched tannins of the ellagitannin type, and surprisingly demonstrated an inhibitory activity on tyrosinase during from in vitro tests on human melanocytes. This activity could be attributed to the exceptional richness of tannins present in these extracts and to the fact that these tannins are found to be in an active form demonstrating an unusual capacity to inhibit tyrosinase. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is possible that the process of ultrasound-assisted extraction in a mixture of water and glycerin has allowed these tannins to be concentrated and stabilized in the extract, thus improving its effectiveness as a cosmetic ingredient for tyrosinase inhibition.

[0007] The present invention relates firstly to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one extract of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood, as a skin depigmentation, lightening and / or bleaching agent, and / or as an antioxidant and / or anti-aging agent. The invention aims in particular to eliminate or reduce dark and / or colored spots appearing on the skin or more generally on keratin materials, due to an increased concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin.

[0008] The wood extract may in particular be present in the composition at a content ranging from approximately 0.05 to approximately 10%, preferably ranging from approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, for example approximately 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition therefore contains such a percentage by weight of the wood extract, containing the materials extracted from the wood, in particular ellagitannins and / or gallotannins.

[0009] According to a preferred embodiment, the wood extract and therefore the composition contains ellagitannins. Preferably, the ellagitannins are present in an amount of approximately 200 to approximately 1200 mg, in particular approximately 400 to approximately 900 mg per liter of wood extract.

[0010] According to a preferred embodiment, the wood extract and therefore the composition contains gallotannins. Preferably, the gallotannins are present preferably in an amount of approximately 100 to approximately 900 mg, in particular approximately 200 to approximately 700 mg per liter of wood extract.

[0011] Most preferably, the composition contains ellagitannins and gallotannins, in particular in the respective quantities which can be calculated from, in particular, the percentage of extract in the composition and its content of the respective tannins.

[0012] According to a preferred method, the extract is a hydroglycerin extract obtained by extraction in a mixture of water and glycerin. The extraction is preferably assisted by ultrasound.

[0013] Preferably, the composition contains glycerin, in particular the glycerin used during the extraction. The composition may comprise in particular from about 15 to about 60%, typically between about 20 and about 50%, typically between about 30 and about 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic use of such a composition, as a cosmetic agent for depigmentation, lightening and / or whitening of the skin.

[0015] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for depigmenting, lightening and / or whitening an area of ​​human skin, comprising a step of topical application of an effective amount to said targeted area of ​​skin of a subject of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition as defined herein.

[0016] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for ensuring an antioxidant and / or anti-aging effect, comprising a step of topical application of an effective amount to an area of ​​skin of a subject of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition as defined herein.

[0017] Preferably, the methods of the invention comprise the application of a composition containing at least one hydroglycerin extract of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood, comprising said extract, water and glycerin.

[0018] In particular, but without being limited thereto, the methods provide for the application of said cosmetic composition to the skin of an individual having a dull complexion, an uneven complexion, brownish pigmentation spots, and / or aging spots.

[0019] The invention also relates to a hydroglycerin extract (or raw composition) of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood. Said extract comprises the material extracted from the wood, water and glycerin. In the various subjects of the invention, the material extracted from the wood can be defined as being the material from the wood, and it can be quantified from the dry matter point of view. The tannin contents are expressed per liter of extract.

[0020] According to one method, the content of the extract in dry matter from the wood is equal to or greater than approximately 15% by weight, preferably between approximately 15 and approximately 60%, typically between approximately 20 and approximately 50%, typically between approximately 30 and approximately 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] Preferably, the wood extract comprises ellagitannins, preferably in an amount of approximately 200 to approximately 1200 mg, in particular approximately 400 to approximately 900 mg of ellagitannins per liter of extract.

[0022] Preferably, the wood extract comprises gallotannins, preferably in an amount of approximately 100 to approximately 900 mg, in particular approximately 200 to approximately 700 mg of gallotannins per liter of extract.

[0023] Most preferably, the wood extract contains ellagitannins and gallotannins, in particular in the respective quantities mentioned above.

[0024] This extract can be used to form the cosmetic or dermatological composition mentioned herein.

[0025] According to other advantageous aspects, each of the different objects of the invention may comprise one or more of the following characteristics, taken in isolation or in all technically possible combinations.

[0026] According to one aspect, the extract is a hydroglycerin extract. This extract has in particular been produced in a mixture of water and glycerin. In particular, the extraction has been carried out in a hydroglycerin solvent containing water and from about 15 to about 60% by weight of glycerin in the solvent, preferably from about 20 to about 50% by weight, more preferably from about 30 to about 50% by weight, for example about 30, about 40 or about 50%. It is not prohibited to use a solvent having a glycerin content of less than 20% by weight, but the extraction efficiency is affected and therefore the final tannin content, and this may require subsequent concentration, which it is desired to avoid. It is also possible to use a solvent having a glycerin content greater than 50 or 60% by weight, but the higher viscosity may cause industrial complications.

[0027] According to one aspect, the extraction is assisted by high frequency ultrasound, in particular a frequency of between about 20 and about 1000 kHz.

[0028] According to one aspect, the extraction is carried out according to a protocol comprising heating the solvent (in particular water and glycerin) to a temperature of between approximately 30 and approximately 50°C, typically approximately 40°C, then the raw material and hot solvent (ratio between approximately 5 and approximately 20% by weight, typically approximately 10% by weight of raw material in the solvent) are placed in an ultrasonic extractor, and the extraction is carried out under ultrasound for approximately 45 to approximately 2 hours, typically approximately 1 hour, at a suitable ultrasonic power, for example approximately 24 Hz.

[0029] According to one aspect, the extraction is carried out according to a protocol comprising the maceration of the raw material in the solvent (in particular water and glycerin) at room temperature (e.g. approximately 20-25°C), for approximately 18 to approximately 48 hours, typically approximately 24 hours (ratio between approximately 5 and approximately 20% by weight, typically approximately 10% by weight of raw material in the solvent), then extraction under ultrasound for approximately 45 to approximately 2 hours, typically 1 hour, in an ultrasonic extractor, at a suitable ultrasonic power, for example approximately 24 Hz.

[0030] In one aspect, the wood raw material subjected to extraction is in the form of wood chips or fragments.

[0031] According to one aspect, the extract therefore contains glycerin, and in particular substantially all of the glycerin used during the extraction, and water. The extract is liquid, or even more or less thick or viscous, depending on the content of glycerin. The composition may in particular comprise from about 20 to 50%, preferably from about 30 to about 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the weight of the extract.

[0032] In one aspect, solvents other than glycerol may be used, including glycols such as butylene glycol and propanediol, or NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents). The extract and compositions may therefore comprise this solvent.

[0033] According to one aspect, the crude extract or composition further comprises one or more preservatives, such as sodium levulinate and / or sodium benzoate. This allows its preservation, before its formulation into a cosmetic composition.

[0034] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium suitable for topical application, i.e. compatible with the skin, and constitutes a composition for topical application, cosmetic and / or dermatological, whitening and / or depigmenting.

[0035] This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse. It may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

[0036] The compositions in accordance with the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, in particular a cosmetic adjuvant chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti-foaming agents, insect repellents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, substance P antagonists, substance CGRP antagonists, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.

[0037] The invention will appear more clearly on reading the description which follows, given solely by way of non-limiting example, and made with reference to the drawings in which:

[0038] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] is a graph showing the phytochemical characteristics of extracts obtained using different extraction methods; the left ordinate shows the concentration in mg / ml of gallotannins (1st plot) and ellagitannins (2nd plot) for each extract or batch (noted L and number); the right ordinate shows the concentration in mg / ml of total polyphenols (TPP) and sugars (*10 = values ​​to be multiplied by 10) plotted in the form of the respective curves.

[0039] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] is a graph showing the HPLC quantification of pterostilbene in pM in the same extracts as those in [Fig. 1].

[0040] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] is a graph showing biological characteristics of the same extracts; the left ordinate shows the concentration in mg / ml of CUPRAC (*10 = values ​​to be multiplied by 10), ABTS and DDPH (plots from left to right for each marker and each extract or batch); the right ordinate shows the percentage of inhibition of tyrosinase, reported in the form of a curve.

[0041] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] is an HPLC chromatogram showing the phytochemical composition of extract L0207.

[0042] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] is a graph showing the quantification of melanin levels. The melanin contents of each experimental group are expressed as relative values ​​(% vs control) and presented as mean + / - SD. ***p<0.001; **p<0.01; * p<0.05 - One-way ANOVA and Dunnett's post-hoc test for multiple comparisons compared to the Alpha-MSH group (alpha=0.05).

[0043] [Fig.6] [Fig.6] is a graph showing the quantification of tyrosinase levels. Tyrosinase levels of each experimental group are expressed as relative values ​​(% vs control) and indicated as mean + / - SD ***p<0.001; **p<0.01; * p<0.05 - one-way ANOVA and Dunnett's post-hoc test for multiple comparisons compared to the Alpha-MSH group (alpha=0.05).

[0044] Example 1: Extraction, quantifications _ and biological data;

[0045] The extraction is carried out by means of a cold extraction process assisted by high-frequency ultrasound (20-1000 kHz). This makes it possible to significantly increase the extraction of the molecules of interest while reducing the duration. The ultrasound causes the formation of bubbles, and a growth of these bubbles in size until they reach a critical size where they spontaneously implode, creating a zone of intense energy. The bursting of the cavitation bubbles by a cycle of expansion and contraction on the raw material causes the bursting of the cell wall and thus makes it possible to enrich the solvent with molecules of interest.

[0046] Several solvents were used during the extractions:

[0047] - Water,

[0048] - Phytosolvent B (birch sap),

[0049] - Glycerin water (20% glycerin by weight),

[0050] - Glycerin water (30% glycerin by weight),

[0051] - Glycerin water (40% glycerin by weight),

[0052] - Glycerin water (50% glycerin by weight).

[0053] Two types of extractions were compared with these solvents.

[0054] Extraction method A: heating the solvent to 40°C, raw material and hot solvent (ratio 10% by weight of raw material in the solvent) placed in a ultrasonic extractor, and ultrasonic extraction for 1 hour, ultrasonic power of 24 Hz.

[0055] Extraction method B: maceration of the raw material in the solvent at room temperature for 24 hours (ratio 10% by weight of raw material in the solvent), then extraction under ultrasound for 1 hour in an ultrasonic extractor, ultrasonic power of 24 Hz.

[0056] Table 1 shows that the glycerine extracts are much more concentrated in dry matter and that the dry matter content obtained is similar whether method A or method B is used (see L0136 vs. L0141).

[0057] [Tables 1] Batch L0135 L0136 LAW 37 L0140 L0141 LAW 42 L0205 L0206 L0207 Extraction method AAABBBAAA Solvent Demineralized water Demineralized water + glycerin 20% Birch sap (Boi teau) Demineralized water Demineralized water + glycerin 20% Birch sap (Boi teau) Demineralized water + glycerin 30% Demineralized water + glycerin 40% Demineralized water + glycerin 50% Humidity MP (Desiccator, 105°C, standard, automatic = mode 1) 10.20% Dry matter (Desiccator, 105°C 0.10% 24.80% 0.80% 0.17% 24.90% 0.87% 32.2% 41.68% 52.6% , standard, automatic = mod 1) PH 5.09 5.07 4.09 5.03 4.99 4.01 5.36 5.32 5.32 Brix 2 22 2.8 2.9 21.7 3.3 21.3 28.2 42 RI 1.336 1.367 1.33 7 1.337 1.367 1.33 8 1.366 1.378 1.403

[0058] As shown in Figures 1 and 2, the glycerin extracts are more highly enriched in antioxidant molecules than the water or phytosolvent extracts. This is demonstrated by the total polyphenols test (TPT), and by the gallotannins and ellagitannins measurements. Similarly, the molecular marker, pterostilbene, is more strongly detected in the 30, 40 and 50% glycerin extracts than in the other solvents used.

[0059] Several biological characteristics were then evaluated using the following methods and the results obtained are presented in the following examples in relation to the figures: - CUPRAC: the antioxidant capacity is measured using the CUPRAC (CUPric Reducing Antioxidant Capacity) method; this method allows the total antioxidant capacity (CAT) of hydrophilic and hydrophobic samples to be measured. The copper (II) - neocuproine (2,9-dimethyl-l,10-phenanthroline) reagent is capable of oxidizing antioxidants, generating a colored product that can be measured by colorimetry at 450nm. - ABTS: the antioxidant capacity is measured using the ABTS (2,2'-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate)) colorimetric method which allows the simultaneous determination of hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants. It generates the direct production of the blue / green ABTS + chromophore. The addition of antioxidants to the preformed cation radical reduces its ABTS depending on the antioxidant activity and their concentration. This capacity is measured at 630nm. - DPPH: Antioxidant capacity is measured using the so-called DPPH method, which measures the antioxidant activity of compounds capable of transferring hydrogen atoms. The compound (DPPH*+: 2,2-diphenyl 1-picrylhydrazyl) is a colored and stable radical cation of purple color measured by spectrophotometer at 630nm. Antioxidant compounds, which are capable of transferring an electron to DPPH+, cause discoloration

[0060]

[0061]

[0062]

[0063] of the solution. This reaction is rapid and proportional to the antioxidant capacity of the sample. - Anti-tyrosinase in tubo: Tyrosinase activity was measured using L-DOPA as substrate and is measured at 490nm after 15 minutes of reaction. - Evaluation of melanin synthesis and quantification of tyrosinase levels on cells: primary human melanocytes were used. They were seeded at 15,000 cells per well in a 96-well plate (in situ visualization of biomarkers). The cells were cultured in M254 medium. M254 medium is a solution specifically formulated for the culture and growth of melanocytes. It includes a balanced combination of amino acids, vitamins, organic compounds, trace minerals, and inorganic salts. This medium is free of antibiotics, antimycotics, hormones, growth factors, and proteins. It is in a sterile liquid form and is prepared with a concentration of 200 pM calcium chloride, thus promoting an environment conducive to the culture of normal human epidermal melanocytes.It was supplemented with Human Melanocyte Growth Supplement (HMGS; S VF 10%) at 37°C in humidified air with 5% CO2. The stressed conditions are in the presence of alpha-MSH, a peptide hormone that stimulates skin melanocytes to produce melanin. [Fig.3] then shows that the glycerin extracts are enriched in antioxidant compounds, and this is all the more so as the glycerin content is high. In particular, batch L0207 (glycerin water 50%) is the one which is the most enriched in hydrophilic and hydrophobic compounds having antioxidant activities (CUPRAC). Similarly, the anti-tyrosinase in tubo anti-aging test [Fig.3] demonstrates an inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme of approximately 86% for glycerin extracts. These results reflect the properties of glycerin extracts, due to their composition, to prevent / reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. Example 2: characterization of the 50% glycerin extract from example 1: [Tables 2] PHYSICO-CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS Criteria Ranges Lot L0207 pH; 20°C (direct) 4.5 - 6.2 6.00 Total dry matter (total DM) 40% - 60% 52.6% Refractive index 1.395- 1.410 1.403 Brix 35% - 60% 42% QUANTIFICATIONS Assays Ranges Lot L0207 Total polyphenol content (%) 800 - 2000 mg / L 1323.84 ±0.04 mg / L Sugar content 100 - 500 mg / L 310.93 ±0.8 mg / L Ellagitannins content 400 - 900 mg / L 674.88 ±9.92 mg / L Gallotannins content 200 - 700 mg / L 431.27 ±6.42 mg / L Pterostilbene content 25 - 55 pM 38.57 ±1.82 pM

[0064] By intervals we mean the expected values ​​due to variations related to the wood and the implementation of the extractions. Total MS includes glycerin.

[0065] Example 3: Formulation of a product or plant extract with preservatives, allowing storage:

[0066] [Table 3]: Product Formulation (Water / Glycerin / Preservative): INCI Name EU CAS / EINECS No. Concentration Aqua 7732-18-5 / 231-791-2 45.8 - 46.8% Glycerin 56-81-5 / 200-289-5 44.0 - 45.8% Pterocarpus Soyauxii Wood Extract Lot L0207 8.0 - 9.5% Sodium Levulinate (Preservative) 19856-23-6 / 243-378-4 0.70 - 0.73% Sodium Benzoate (Preservative) 532-32-1 / 208-534-8 0.34 - 0.37%

[0067] Example 4: Evaluation of melanin synthesis and quantification of tyrosinase levels

[0068] To evaluate the efficacy, Padouk extracts (L0207) were diluted to 1% and 3% in M254 medium for 24h with 10 pM of melanotropic hormone (alpha-MSH), then sampled (Table 4). Kojic acid at 100 pM was used as an inhibitor reference for melanogenesis. The term "stress" refers to the presence of T alpha-MSH.

[0069] [Tables4] Table 4: experimental groups description treatment s) untreated control, unstressed Alpha-MSH untreated, stressed 24h Alpha-MSH + padouk 3% 24h contact, stressed 24h Alpha-MSH + padouk 1% 24h contact, stressed 24h Alpha-MSH + kojic acid 100 pm 24h contact, stressed 24h

[0070] Melanin content was visualized by in situ visualization under bright-field microscopy (not shown). Alpha-MSH significantly increased melanin production compared to the control group, which was neutralized by 100 pM kojic acid. Cell treatments showed differential melanin levels.

[0071] Intercellular melanin levels (%) are reported in Table 5 and in [Fig.5] as mean values ​​+ / - SD per experimental group normalized to control.

[0072] [Tables5] Table 5. Mean Melanin Content (% vs. control) Standard Deviation Efficacy (%) P-Value (vs. alpha-MSH) N Control 100 7 100% *** <0.0001 3 Alpha-MSH 194 10 0% / / 3 Alpha-MSH + Padouk 3% 81 4 100% *** <0.0001 3 Alpha-MSH + Padouk 1% 117 9 81% *** <0.0001 3 Alpha-MSH + K ojic acid 100 pm 45 6 100% *** <0.0001 3

[0073] The presence of the active ingredient significantly inhibited alpha-MSH-mediated melanin synthesis.

[0074] Tyrosinase quantification was visualized in situ by epifluorescence microscopy (not shown). Alpha-MSH significantly increased tyrosinase levels compared to the control (unstimulated) group. The presence of 100 pM kojic acid inhibited alpha-MSH induction of tyrosinase levels. Cell treatments with the active ingredient showed differential tyrosinase levels.

[0075] Intercellular tyrosinase levels (%) are shown in Table 6 and in the bar graph representation as mean values ​​+ / - SD per experimental group normalized to control ([Fig.6]). The presence of the active ingredient significantly inhibited the increase in tyrosinase levels induced by alpha-MSH.

[0076] [Tableauxô] Table 6. Tyrosinase Content Mean (% vs. control) Standard Deviation Efficiency (%) P-Value (vs. a-MSH) N Control 100 3 100% *** <0.0001 3 Alpha-MSH 131 2 0% / / 3 Alpha-MSH + Padouk 3% 101 3 98% *** <0.0001 3 Alpha-MSH + Padouk 1% 112 3 60% *** <0.0001 3 Alpha-MSH + Kojic acid 100 pM 106 4 81% *** <0.0001 3 Conclusion#:

[0077] The presence of the active ingredient (Padouk L0207) significantly inhibits (p<0.05) the synthesis of melanin, PADOUK at 3% and 1% (respectively 100% and 81%) and significantly prevents (p<0.05) the increase in tyrosinase levels induced by alpha-MSH, PADOUK at 3% and 1% (respectively 98% and 60%).

[0078] In conclusion, the active ingredient PADOUK showed inhibitory effects on melanogenesis by effectively inhibiting the increase in melanin synthesis induced by alpha-MSH and modulating tyrosinase levels.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one extract of Pterocarpus soyauxii wood, as a skin depigmentation, lightening and / or whitening agent.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a wood extract content ranging from 0.05 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the wood extract contains ellagitannins and / or gallotannins, preferably in an amount of 200 to 1200 mg, in particular 400 to 900 mg of ellagitannins per one liter of extract; and / or 100 to 900 mg, in particular 200 to 700 mg of gallotannins per one liter of extract.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is a hydroglycerin extract obtained by extraction in a mixture of water and glycerin, preferably assisted by ultrasound.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains glycerin, preferably in an amount of 15 to 60% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the composition.

Citation Information

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