Composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material
A composition with alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and selenium sulfide addresses the challenge of rapid microbial inhibition and foaming in cosmetic products, improving dandruff treatment and reducing itching.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-03
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-10
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic products with anti-dandruff agents struggle to rapidly inhibit microorganisms and provide desirable foaming properties, exacerbating the socially debilitating condition of dandruff and associated itching.
A composition comprising alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, selenium sulfide, and optional amphoteric surfactants, applied to keratinous materials for 2-120 seconds and rinsed, providing improved anti-dandruff efficacy and foaming properties.
The composition achieves faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and desirable foaming, enhancing anti-dandruff efficacy and reducing itching.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Keratinous material cleaning and / or care composition. Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and / or conditioning keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp. The present invention also relates to a process for cleaning and / or conditioning keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The scalp is an epidermis that undergoes continuous renewal, like the rest of the skin tissue, and is rich in sebaceous glands. Under normal circumstances, the scalp is renewed by an imperceptible and invisible shedding of superficial skin cells. However, excessive renewal of the cells in the stratum corneum of the scalp, for various reasons, can lead to the formation of large, thick patches of cells visible to the naked eye, known as "dandruff".
[0003] Dandruff is a chronic, frequent, and recurring condition that is socially debilitating due to its clearly unsightly appearance. This dandruff of the scalp results from an alteration of the epidermis' barrier function. Furthermore, these conditions can cause itching or pruritus, leading to scratching behavior that exacerbates the appearance of dandruff.
[0004] Many cosmetic cleansing and / or skincare products for keratinous materials have been developed to include at least one anti-dandruff agent in order to address the aforementioned problems. However, it is often difficult for cosmetic products containing an anti-dandruff agent to rapidly or sufficiently inhibit microorganisms. Furthermore, good foaming properties are desirable to consumers. However, it is often difficult for cosmetic products containing an anti-dandruff agent to provide a desirable foaming property.
[0005] Therefore, there is a need for a keratinous material cleansing and / or care composition, which includes at least one anti-dandruff agent and which can ensure faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and thus better anti-dandruff efficacy, and which is also capable of providing a desirable foaming property. Summary of the invention
[0006] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.
[0007] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, comprising: a. 0.6% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; b. at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof; and c. at least one selenium sulfide.
[0008] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, comprising the following steps: a. the application of the composition as described above to a wet keratinous material; b. massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 120 seconds; and c. rinsing the keratinous material with water.
[0009] The inventors discovered that after application of the composition to keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, the composition can provide improved anti-dandruff efficacy and in addition a desirable foaming property.
[0010] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0012] The articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the patent memorandum and claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more.”
[0013] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features, or even any features other than those specifically mentioned, are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of", any additional composition, material and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and new features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and new features may be included in the embodiment.
[0014] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that may be modified according to the desired performance as required. The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is intended to denote a range to within ±5% of the value, for example: within ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.
[0015] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" refers to at least one material selected from hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes and scalp, and preferably hair and scalp.
[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0017] - an "alkyl" radical designates a linear or branched saturated radical containing, by for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0018] - an "alkenyl" radical designates a hydrocarbon group formed when an atom hydrogen is removed from an alkene group.
[0019] - an "alkoxy" radical designates an alkyl group linked to the parent molecule by an atom of oxygen (i.e., "-O-alkyl"), where "alkyl" is as defined above.
[0020] - a "heterocyclyl" radical designates a monovalent group derived from a chosen ring among monocyclic, bicyclic or polycyclic rings of 3 to 8 links, preferably of 4 to 6 links, saturated, partially unsaturated or totally unsaturated comprising at least one carbon atom in addition to 1, 2, 3 or 4 heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen.
[0021] - an "aryl" radical designates a monovalent hydrocarbon radical derived from a monocyclic, condensed bicyclic or polycyclic cyclic system (in which at least one ring contains a fully conjugated ir electron system) having known aromatic characteristics. Alpha-hydroxy acid
[0022] The composition according to the present invention comprises from 0.6% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] By the term "alpha-hydroxyl acid", according to the present invention, we mean a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).
[0024] The alpha-hydroxy acid present in the composition according to the present invention includes, but is not limited to, glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, acid phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, ribolytic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0026] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0027] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a monocarboxylic acid.
[0028] More preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as lactic acid.
[0029] The preferred alpha-hydroxy acid of all is lactic acid, for example, that sold under the trade name L-LACTIC ACID (90%) (CRG) by the company MUSASHINO CHEMICAL LABORATORY, and that sold under the trade name L(4)-LACTIC ACID 90% HEAT STABLE PERSONAL CARE by the company JUNGBUNZLAUER.
[0030] Advantageously, the alpha-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.6% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.6% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 6% by weight, plus preferably 2% by weight to 6% by weight, and even more preferably 2.5% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof
[0031] According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof.
[0032] By the term "beta-hydroxyl acid", according to the present invention, we mean a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0033] Preferably, the "derivative" in the expression "beta-hydroxylated acid and / or derivatives thereof" means that the hydroxyl functional group of the beta-hydroxylated acid, rather than the carboxylic functional group, is modified and preferably acylated.
[0034] Preferably, the beta-hydroxylated acid and / or derivatives thereof are chosen from salicylic acid, its derivatives acylated on the hydroxyl group, and its derivative of the following formula (I):
[0035] wherein, R represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being optionally substituted with at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0036] R' represents a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula (II): ---O--G— Ri(II) II O
[0037] wherein Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 15 carbon atoms.
[0038] More preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are those having a salicylic fraction, including salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0039] Non-limiting examples of other useful beta-hydroxy acids and / or derivatives thereof include 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, beta-hydroxypropionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxybeta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, lipohydroxy acid, acid 3-hydroxyvaleric, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] According to the present invention, the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are in particular preferably chosen from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably salicylic acid.
[0041] A particularly preferable beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are salicylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name AMIPRESERVE by the company ALBAN MULLER (CRODA), and that sold under the trade name SALICYLIC ACID USP by the company CELLMARK.
[0042] Advantageously, the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Selenium sulfide
[0043] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one selenium sulfide (or selenium disulfide).
[0044] Selenium sulfide is a basic commercial product. Selenium sulfide is generally considered to be a compound containing one mole of selenium and two moles of sulfur. However, it can take the form of a cyclic structure, SexSy, in which x + y = 8. Since sulfur and selenium readily form rings and chains, selenium sulfide is not a pure chemical compound, but a mixture, for example, a mixture of eight-membered cyclic compounds where the overall Se:S ratio is 1:2 (often abbreviated as SeS2).
[0045] Selenium sulfide is used to treat dandruff and certain scalp infections (seborrheic dermatitis). It reduces itching, irritation, and redness of the scalp.
[0046] According to the present invention, selenium sulfide is added as a raw material in the form of a powder whose particles generally have a particle size (D90) less than 200 µm, preferably less than 100 µm, preferably less than 150 µm, preferably less than 100 µm, preferably less than 50 µm, and more preferably less than 25 µm. For example, selenium sulfide, as a raw material, may have a particle size (D90) ranging from 1 µm to 24 µm, preferably from 3 µm to 15 µm, and more preferably from 5 µm to 10 µm, for example from 24 µm, 20 µm, 18 µm, 15 µm, 10 µm, 8 µm, 7 µm, 5 µm, 3 µm, 2 µm or 1 µm. For the purposes of this invention, the particle size (D90) corresponds to the particle size defined such that 90% by volume of the particles are smaller than the particle size (D90). The particle size can be measured by a forward laser light scattering device (for example, a Malvem 3600 instrument).
[0047] A particularly preferable example of selenium sulfide is that sold under the trade name SELENIUM SULPHIDE EP / USP MICRONIZED by the company ESKAY FINE CHEMICALS.
[0048] Advantageously, selenium sulfide is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactant
[0049] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one amphoteric surfactant.
[0050] The expression "amphoteric surfactant" refers to a surfactant which simultaneously carries the anionic and cationic hydrophilic group with its structure simultaneously containing hermaphroditic ions which are capable of forming a cation or an anion depending on ambient conditions (such as changes in pH).
[0051] Useful amphoteric surfactants include betaines, sultaines (also called sulfobetaines), alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from among the sultaines.
[0053] More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from among the hydroxysultaine type surfactants.
[0054] In some cases, the hydroxysultaine type surfactant is chosen from among the (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(Ci-C6 alkyl)hydroxylsulfobetaines.
[0055] Preferably, non-limiting examples of hydroxysultaine-type surfactants include hydroxysultaines of formula (III): RC—NH(CH2).,——CH2CHŒ2SO3- <:¾ ôii
[0056] in which R represents an alkyl group having 7 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0057] One of the particularly preferable hydroxysultaine-type surfactants is cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, for example, that sold under the trade name TC-SHD 50 RSPO MB by GUANGZHOU TINCI MATERIALS, or those available from SEPPIC or KAO CHEMICAL.
[0058] Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactant
[0059] According to the present invention, the composition may include at least one anionic surfactant.
[0060] In the present description, a species is said to be "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example, the medium or the pH).
[0061] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from among the alkyl ethers sulfates.
[0062] In some cases, alkyl ether sulfates include those corresponding to the following formula (IV): - (IV)
[0063] in which, R represents a hydrogen or an alkyl chain having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl chain having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably an alkyl chain having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, said alkyl chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted;
[0064] M represents a solubilizing cation, such as alkali metal ions, for example sodium or potassium ions, ammonium or substituted ammonium, or alkanolammonium ions, for example monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions; and
[0065] n is an integer from 0 to 3, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 2 and 3.
[0066] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate, for example, that sold under the trade name EMAL 170S by the company KAO, or under the trade name KOPACOL N701 S RENU ULTRA / MB MASPHATE ES70 IM LD RSPO MB by the company KENSING PT MUSIM MAS.
[0067] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty amine
[0068] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one fatty amine as a conditioning agent. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.
[0069] The term "fatty amines" refers to primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylated, or salts thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C6-C3 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.
[0070] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine selected from among the tertiary fatty amines.
[0072] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines selected from among the amidoamines.
[0073] Amidoamines are a class of chemical compounds formed from fatty acids and diamines. Non-limiting examples of amidoamines include those with the following formula (V):
[0074] RCONHR'N(R")2(V)
[0075] wherein R represents a hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a C6-C30 hydrocarbon radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C6-C30 alkyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, or a C6-C30 alkenyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched; and R' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted; and the Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Furthermore, R may be linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, R is a linear or branched acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group. More preferably, R is a hydrogen or methyl group.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of amidoamines include, but are not limited to, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflowerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine, almondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, and tallamidopropyl dimethylamine. dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine,palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty amine is brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0077] Other suitable fatty amines include, but are not limited to, octylamine, decylamine, dodecylamine, stearylamine, stearyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] A particularly preferable example of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine is that sold under the trade name PROCONDITION 2 by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY.
[0079] Advantageously, the fatty amine is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nitrogenous compound
[0080] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nitrogen compound corresponding to the following formula (VI) R$ <VI) | ---C----R2 | RJ
[0081] in which Rb R2, R3, R4 and R5, independently of each other, denote a radical chosen from:
[0082] - a hydrogen atom,
[0083] - a carboxyl group, and
[0084] - a linear C1-C6 or C3-C6 branched alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S, and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from an amino, an imino, an amidino, a guanidino, a hydroxyl, a sulfhydryl, a carboxyl, an amido, a Ci-C6 perfluoroalkyl, a Ci-C6 alkoxy, a sulfate, a phosphate, an aryl, and a heterocyclyl, and
[0085] in which Ri and R4 optionally form a ring which contains 5 or 6 atoms chosen from carbon and nitrogen.
[0086] Preferably, RB R2, R3, R4 and R5, independently of each other, denote a radical chosen from:
[0087] - a hydrogen atom,
[0088] - a carboxyl group, and
[0089] - a linear C1-C6 or C3-C6 branched alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S, and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from an amino, an imino, an amidino, a guanidino, a hydroxyl, a sulfhydryl, a carboxyl, an amido, a C1-C6 alkoxy, a phenyl, and a heterocyclyl selected from a pyrimidyl, a piperidyl, a morpholinyl, a pyranyl, a furyl, a piperazinyl, a pyridyl, an imidazolyl, and an indolyl, and
[0090] in which Ri and R4 optionally form a ring which contains 5 or 6 atoms chosen from carbon or nitrogen.
[0091] According to the present invention, the nitrogen compound may have a molecular weight of less than 500, preferably less than 400, and more preferably less than 250.
[0092] Non-limiting examples of the nitrogenous compound include, but are not limited to, arginine, including L-arginine, trolamine, diethanolamine, L-alanine, L-asparagine, L-aspartate, L-cysteine, L-glutamate, L-glutamine, L-glycine, L-histidine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-lysine, L-methionine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L-valine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 3-isopropoxypropylamine, 3-methoxypropylamine (3-MPA), 3-ethoxypropylamine, 3-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-propylamine, the 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol (2-2AEE), 3-butoxypropylamine (3-BPA) and monoethanolamine (MEA), and mixtures thereof.
[0093] Preferably, the nitrogen compound is chosen from the group consisting of L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-arginine.
[0094] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 1% by weight to 10% by weight of the nitrogen compound chosen from the group consisting of L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-arginine.
[0095] One of the particularly preferable nitrogen compounds is L-arginine sold under the trade name L ARGININE by the company KYOWA HAKKO.
[0096] Advantageously, the nitrogen compound is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cellulose
[0097] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cellulose.
[0098] As used herein, the term "cellulose" is intended to designate any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via beta-1,4 bonds. The cellulose may be unsubstituted or substituted. Furthermore, the cellulose may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic.
[0099] Preferably, the cellulose used according to the invention is chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form; cellulose esters; cellulose ethers; cellulose ester ethers; and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetate-butyrates, acetate-propionates and acetate-trimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate-butyrate-sulfates and cellulose acetate-propionate-su Ifates.
[0101] Cellulose ethers include nonionic cellulose ethers, anionic cellulose ethers and cationic cellulose ethers.
[0102] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include (alkyl in Ci-C4)celluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(alkyl in Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(alkyl in Ci-C4)(alkyl in Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll 20 E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0103] Among anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(alkyl in Ci-C4)celluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses (for example, Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.
[0104] Among cationic cellulose ethers, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer may be mentioned, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cr C4 alkyl)celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium.
[0105] Among the cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates may be mentioned.
[0106] According to the present invention, the cellulose is preferably chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from unsubstituted celluloses.
[0107] Advantageously, cellulose is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymer
[0108] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one cationic polymer, other than celluloses.
[0109] Preferably, said cationic polymer is chosen from polyquaterniums, cationic guar gum derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] In some cases, the cationic polymer may include monomer motifs derived from a monomer substituted with a quaternary amine and / or ammonium and / or compatible spacer monomers.
[0111] A suitable cationic polymer includes, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., the chloride salt) (called Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the trade name LUVIQUAT (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (called Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from Gar Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name GAFQUAT (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); and a cationic polymer containing a quaternary diallylammonium including, for example, a homopolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride and the copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (called Polyquatemium-6 and Poly quaternium-7).
[0112] Un polymère cationique approprié peut inclure d’autres polyquaterniums, tels que polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquatemium-3, polyquatemium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquatemium-55, polyquatemium-56, polyquatemium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61,polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and combinations thereof.
[0113] The preferred cationic guar gum derivative may be guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0114] According to the present invention, the cationic polymer, other than celluloses, is preferably chosen from polyquaterniums, cationic guar gum derivatives and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cationic guar gum derivatives, even more preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and most preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0115] Advantageously, the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent
[0116] The composition of the present invention may include at least one aqueous solvent.
[0117] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention includes water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 polyols and monoalcohols.
[0118] The term “polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0119] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.
[0120] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0121] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in cleaning and / or care products for keratinous material, for example hair and scalp.
[0122] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, biological extracts, perfumes, preservatives and chelating agents.
[0123] According to the present invention, non-limiting examples of pH-correcting agents include potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanolamines, and mixtures thereof. Sodium hydroxide is a particularly preferred pH-correcting agent.
[0124] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition
[0125] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components is a cleansing and / or care composition for keratinous material, preferably of the hair and scalp.
[0126] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components is preferably in the form of a fluid, for example, a lotion, emulsion, paste, cream, or gel. For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "fluid" means that the composition can flow by means of an external force.
[0127] According to the present invention, the composition preferably has a pH value of 2 to 6.5, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 3.5 to 5.2.
[0128] Thanks to the specific components above, the composition according to the present invention can ensure faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and therefore better anti-dandruff efficacy, and can also provide a desirable foaming property, even at a lower pH value, for example, a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0129] According to the present invention, microorganisms include all microorganisms that can affect the skin, nails, hair and scalp, and mucous membranes. Examples of microorganisms include, but are not limited to, non-dermatophytes (Candida species such as C. albicans, etc., Scopulariopsis species such as S. brevicaulis, and Malassezia spp.). These are yeasts represented by the genus Candida and by Malassezia furfur (formerly called pityrosporon). Candida affects the skin, nails, hair and scalp, as well as mucous membranes. Malassezia furfur, which is a common saprophyte of the skin, particularly seborrheic skin, is the causative agent of pityriasis versicolor.
[0130] Furthermore, thanks to the optional hydroxysultaine-type surfactant component as mentioned above, the foaming property of the composition comprising it can be further improved, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0131] Thanks to the specific fatty amine as defined above, the composition comprising it can further improve the smooth texture sensation of the keratinous material, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0132] Thanks to the specific arginine and / or cationic polymer as defined above, the composition comprising them can further improve the smooth texture and / or softness of the keratinous material, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0133] Thanks to the specific cellulose as defined above, the stability of the composition comprising it can be improved, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0134] Thanks to the relatively smaller particle size of the raw material selenium sulfide as defined above, the selenium sulfide can disperse better in the composition, and further provide sensations of smooth texture and / or improved softness for the composition comprising it, even at a lower pH value, for example a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0135] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a keratinous material cleansing and / or care composition, with respect to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; b. 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.005% to 5% by weight of at least one selenium sulfide; and optionally d. at least one hydroxysultaine-type surfactant;
[0136] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0137] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition of cleansing and / or conditioning of keratinous material, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; b. 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.005% to 5% by weight of at least one selenium sulfide; and d. 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one hydroxysultaine-type surfactant;
[0138] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0139] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a keratinous material cleansing and / or care composition, with respect to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; b. 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one selenium sulfide; d. 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one hydroxysultaine-type surfactant; and optionally at least one of the following components: e. 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one amidoamine; f. 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one cellulose; g. 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one nitrogenous compound selected from L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; and h. 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one cationic guar gum derivative,
[0140] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 2 to 6.5.
[0141] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a keratinous material cleansing and / or care composition, with respect to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably lactic acid; b. 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of selenium sulfide; d. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of a hydroxysultaine-type surfactant, which is preferably chosen from among the (C8-C2O alkyl)amido(CrC6 alkyl)hydroxyl sulfobetaines, and more preferably cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; and optionally at least one of the following components: e. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine; f. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of unsubstituted cellulose; and g. 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of L-arginine,
[0142] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.2.
[0143] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a keratinous material cleansing and / or care composition, with respect to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 1% by weight to 6% by weight of lactic acid; b. 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of salicylic acid; c. 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of selenium sulfide; and d. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine;
[0144] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.2.
[0145] In a further preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a keratinous material cleansing and / or care composition, with respect to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 1% by weight to 6% by weight of lactic acid; b. 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of salicylic acid; c. 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight of selenium sulfide; d. 1% by weight to 10% by weight of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; and Optionally, at least one of the following components: e. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine; f. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of unsubstituted cellulose; g. 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of L-arginine; and h. 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride hydroxypropyl guar;
[0146] wherein the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.2. Process and use
[0147] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, by being applied to the keratinous material.
[0148] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can ensure faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and therefore better anti-dandruff efficacy, and can also provide a desirable foaming property.
[0149] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, comprising the following steps: a. the application of the above composition to wet keratinous material, b. massaging the keratinous material for 2 to 120 seconds, and c. rinsing the keratinous material with water.
[0150] Optionally, the process according to the present invention further includes step d) of drying the keratinous material.
[0151] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustration. EXAMPLES
[0152] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1, and the materials not specified here were all commercially available.
[0153] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier LACTIC ACID (ACID L ACTIC) L(+)-LACTIC ACID 90% HEAT STABLE PERSONAL CARE G RADE JUNGBUNZLAU ER SALICYLIC ACID (ACID E SALICYLIC) SALICYLIC ACID USP CELLMARK SELENIUM SULFIDE (SELENIUM SULPHIDE) SELENIUM SULPHIDE EP / USP MICRONIZED ESKAY FINE CH EMICALS COCAMIDOPROPYL HY DROXYSULTAINE (CO CAMIDOPROPYL HYDR OXYSULTAINE) TC-SHD 50 RSPO MB GUANGZHOU TI NCI MATERIALS TECHNOLOG COCO-BETAINE (COCO-BETAINE) AMPHITOL 24B-2 KAO BRASSICAMIDOPROPY L DIMETHYLAMINE (B RASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE) PROCONDITION 2 INOLEX CHEMIC AL COMPANY ARGININE L ARGININE KYOWA HAKKO CELLULOSE AQUALON CMC 7H3SXF ASHLAND
[0154] Comparative examples 1 and 2 and examples 1 to 6 of the invention
[0155] The compositions according to Comparative Examples (CE) 1 and 2 and the examples of the invention (Ex.) 1 to 6 comprising the ingredients indicated in Table 2 have been prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0156] [Tables2] Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex .5 Ex. 6 EC. 1 EC. Phase A WATER QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 QPS 100 HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMO NIUM GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLATED CHLORIDE / / / / 0.3 / / / CELLULOSE 0.2 BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE / / / 0.3 / / / / Phase B COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAIN 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 Phase C SALICYLIC ACID 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 / 1.9 ARGININE / / / / / 1.5 / / LACTIC ACID 3 3 0.6 3 3 3 3 0.4 Phase D SELENIUM SULFIDE 0.1 0.6 0.6 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.6 0.1 pH (SODIUM HYDROXIDE) 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 Preparation process
[0157] The composition was prepared from a process comprising the following steps: 1. Mix each component of Phase A until homogeneous to form Premix 1; 2. Add each component of Phase B into Premix 1 and mix thoroughly until transparent to form Premix 2; 3. Add each component of Phase C into Premix 2 to form Premix 3; 4. Add the selenium sulfide from Phase D to Premix 3 and mix until homogeneous to form Mixture 1; and 5. Correct the pH value of Mixture 1 to 3.8 by adding sodium hydroxide to form the final composition. Composition evaluation
[0158] The compositions as prepared were evaluated in terms of anti-dandruff efficacy and foaming property. Anti-dandruff efficacy trial
[0159] The anti-dandruff efficacy of each composition of Examples 1 to 6 of the invention and of comparative Examples 1 and 2 was evaluated as follows: 15 ml of each test sample were diluted by a factor of 10 and kept at a temperature of 20 °C for 5 min. The diluted sample was rapidly and immediately mixed with a test solution of Malassezia furfur. After contact for 2 min or 5 min, the surviving microorganisms were tested by a plate counting method.
[0160] The results of the anti-dandruff efficacy of the compositions of examples 1 to 6 of the invention and comparative examples 1 and 2 are presented respectively in the following Table 3.
[0161] [Tables3] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 EC. 1 EC. 2% inhibition of Malassez ia Furfur (2 min) 99 99 31 99 99 99 20 15% inhibition of Malassez ia Furfur (5 min) 99.9 9 99.9 9 78 99.9 9 99.9 9 99.9 9 35 28
[0162] From the data in Table 3 above, it can be seen that all the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 of the invention, comprising an amount greater than or equal to 0.6% by weight of an alpha-hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of each composition, of a beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof and of a selenium sulfide, can provide a % inhibition greater than or equal to 30% after contact of the microorganism Malassezia Furfur with each composition for 2 min, and a % inhibition greater than or equal to 70 after contact of the microorganism Malassezia Furfur with each composition for 5 min.
[0163] In contrast, each of the compositions in comparative examples 1 and 2, which do not include a beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, or include a quantity less than 0.6% by weight of an alpha-hydroxy acid provides a much lower % of inhibition after contact of the Malassezia Furfur microorganism with each composition for 2 min and / or 5 min. Foaming property test
[0164] For the Foam Volume test protocol: a. prepare water at 10 fH (French hardness) (111 mg of CaCl2 dissolved in 1 L of DI water); b. Weigh out 4 g of each composition from examples 1 to 6 of the invention and place them in a kitchen blender; c. Weigh out 76 g of 10 fH water prepared to dilute each composition by a factor of 20; d. Turn on the kitchen mixer (PHILIPS HR2056) and mix for 1 minute; e. Quickly transfer the foam produced and the liquid into a 500 ml graduated cylinder; and f. Read the entire volume.
[0165] The higher the volume of foam, the greater the quantity of foam, and vice versa.
[0166] The results of the foaming property of the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 of the invention are presented respectively in the following Table 4.
[0167] [Tables4] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Foam volume (ml) 200 215 225 215 215 215
[0168] As is known in the field of cleaning products, a foam volume greater than or equal to 200 ml is considered qualified. From the data in Table 4 above, it can be seen that all the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 of the invention, comprising an amount greater than or equal to 0.6% by weight of an alpha-hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of each composition, of a beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof, of a selenium sulfide, can provide a foam volume greater than or equal to 200 ml.
[0169] In summary, the compositions according to the present invention can ensure faster and more satisfactory inhibition of microorganisms and therefore better anti-dandruff efficacy, and in addition provide a desirable foaming property.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably for cleansing and / or conditioning keratinous material, comprising: a) 0.6% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof; and c) at least one selenium sulfide.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and is more preferably lactic acid.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof are selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and preferably salicylic acid.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably selected from betaines, sultaines, alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from sultaines.
5. A composition according to claim 4, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from hydroxysultaine-type surfactants, preferably selected from (C8-C2O alkyl)amido(C1-C6 alkyl)hydroxyl sulfobetaines, and more preferably conforms to the following formula (III): (CH11)RC—NH(CH2H)₂CHCH₂C112CHCH₂C11OH, in which R represents an alkyl group having 7 to 18 carbon atoms; and is most preferably cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, and wherein the hydroxysultaine-type surfactant is preferably present in an amount from 0.1 wt% to 20 wt%.
6. weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty amine, which is preferably selected from the amidoamines corresponding to the following formula (V): RCONHR'N(R")2(V) in which R represents a hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, R' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, and the R"s, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or a hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably, is chosen from the group consisting of oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflowerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine, almondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, the babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine,cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, and mixtures thereof; and most preferably brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and, in which the fatty amine is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one cellulose, preferably selected from unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from unsubstituted celluloses, and in which cellulose is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one nitrogen compound corresponding to the following formula (VI) R3 in which Rh R2, R3, R4 and R5, independently of each other, designate a radical chosen from: - a hydrogen atom, - a carboxyl group, and - a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S, and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from an amino, imino, amidino, guanidino, hydroxyl, sulfhydryl, carboxyl, amido, C1-C6 perfluoroalkyl, C1-C6 alkoxy, sulfate, phosphate, aryl (preferably a phenyl), and a heterocyclyl which is preferably selected from a pyrimidyl, piperidyl, morpholinyl, pyranyl, furyl, piperazinyl, pyridyl, imidazolyl, and indolyl, and
9. in which Ri and R4 optionally form a ring containing 5 or 6 atoms chosen from carbon and nitrogen, preferably the nitrogenous compound is chosen from arginine, including L-arginine, trolamine, diethanolamine, L-alanine, L-asparagine, L-aspartate, L-cysteine, L-glutamate, L-glutamine, L-glycine, L-histidine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-lysine, L-methionine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L-valine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, the N-Dimethylaminoethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 3-isopropoxypropylamine, 3-methoxypropylamine (3-MPA), 3-ethoxypropylamine, 3-(2-ethylhexyloxy)propylamine, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol (2-2AEE), 3-butoxypropylamine (3-BPA) and monoethanolamine (MEA), and mixtures thereof, more preferably,is selected from L-arginine, trolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably, is L-arginine; and wherein the nitrogenous compound is preferably present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.2% by weight to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A keratinous cleansing and / or conditioning composition, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a) 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid which is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably lactic acid; b) 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid and / or derivatives thereof selected from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, and mixtures thereof; c) 0.01 wt% to 3 wt% of selenium sulfide; d) 1 wt% to 10 wt% of a hydroxysultaine-type surfactant, preferably selected from the (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(Ci-C6 alkyl)hydroxyl sulfobetaines, and is
10. preferably cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; and optionally at least one of the following components: e) 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine; f) 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of unsubstituted cellulose; and g) 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of L-arginine, in which the composition optionally has a pH value of 3.5 to 5.
2. A process of cleansing and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably hair and scalp, comprising the following steps: a) the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on wet keratinous material, b) massaging the keratinous material for 2 to 120 seconds, and c) rinsing the keratinous material with water.