Composition comprising at least one mother-of-pearl, reflective glitter, at least one oil, and a makeup process using it

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one mother-of-pearl, reflective glitter, at least one oil and a makeup process employing it. The present invention relates to a composition comprising (i) at least one colored mother-of-pearl, (ii) at least one optical effect material selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or a mixture thereof; and (iv) optionally water, said composition containing less than 1% by weight of carmine, relative to the total weight of the composition, and a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials comprising at least the application of said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one mother-of-pearl, reflective glitter, at least one oil, and a makeup method employing it technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to propose for the field of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and in particular of the eyelids, cheeks and / or lips, new compositions which are particularly interesting with regard to aesthetic performance, and in particular in terms of colour effects and shine which they provide to the user when applied to them, in particular on the lips. Previous technique

[0002] In general, cosmetic compositions must provide a particular aesthetic and color effect when applied to the skin and / or lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time.

[0003] Thus, the development of new formulations dedicated to makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, possessing advantageous properties and aesthetics, is a permanent objective.

[0004] Skincare and / or makeup compositions generally include synthetic coloured and / or glitter species, soluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0005] Combined with pigments and lacquers, mother-of-pearls are often used, which are colored particles of any shape exhibiting a color effect by optical interference and providing a rather diffuse shine to the composition.

[0006] Glitter, which is larger than mother-of-pearl, can also be used to obtain more pronounced color and shine effects. In particular, it allows for the creation of bright, sparkling points in the composition that are visible to the naked eye.

[0007] However, when these glitter particles are used with mother-of-pearl, difficulties may arise during application of the composition, notably a deposit of varying thickness, with areas where the particles are more or less aggregated. This problem disappears in some cases when the composition or the applicator is reapplied to homogenize the deposit. Nevertheless, it is still desirable to improve the application experience, particularly by enabling a more homogeneous result on the first pass, without losing other positive application characteristics. including ease of application, obtaining a slightly sticky or non-sticky, comfortable deposit that stays in place on the made-up area. Description of the invention

[0008] The present invention therefore aims to provide cosmetic compositions containing reflective glitter and mother-of-pearl in which the aforementioned disadvantages are reduced.

[0009] The present invention aims in particular to provide new colored cosmetic compositions comprising reflective glitter and also enabling the creation of novel and user-friendly colored shine effects on keratinous materials, such as skin, particularly eyelids and / or cheeks, and / or lips. These compositions must also exhibit good stability and sensory characteristics, while being environmentally friendly.

[0010] The present invention also aims to provide compositions obtained from natural or naturally derived components.

[0011] Indeed, consumer habits and expectations are increasingly shifting towards products that are more environmentally friendly, particularly those of natural origin.

[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new compositions, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical or silicone compounds.

[0013] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these needs. Summary of the invention

[0014] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, especially for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one colored mother-of-pearl, in particular based on: - of natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicates, silica, alumina, bismuth oxychloride, or mixtures thereof, and - of at least one colored mineral species based on at least one or more metals, such as iron, titanium, chromium and tin, and possibly at least one organic pigment, or mixtures thereof; (ii) at least one optical effect material selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone-based, or a mixture thereof; and (iv) possibly water in a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition containing less than 1% by weight of carmine, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the compositions according to the invention, comprising at least one oil and optionally a limited amount of water, improve the homogeneity of the application of the composition and produce original color and visual effects in the presence of reflective glitter comprising cellulose and / or one of its derivatives combined with at least one mother-of-pearl. Thus, the composition according to the invention is applied easily and precisely, resulting in a more homogeneous deposit with fewer particle aggregates. The application is comfortable, with little or no stickiness, and remains in place once applied.

[0016] This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

[0017] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows. Detailed description

[0018] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and generally suitable for topical application to the skin, for example the cheeks and / or eyelids, as well as to the lips. It therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say, one compatible with the skin and lips.

[0019] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0020] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0021] Optical effect material (ü) selected from reflective glitter

[0022] As mentioned previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one optical effect material (ii) selected from reflective glitter comprising cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative.

[0023] More particularly, said reflective particles are chosen from among non-coloured, coloured, holographic effect, multicoloured or silver reflective particles, preferably holographic effect or silver.

[0024] By "holographic effect" is more particularly an effect with color changes, producing for example iridescent rainbow colors.

[0025] For the purposes of this invention, "reflective glitter" means small particles comprising a sheet or film on which at least one metallic species, in particular aluminum, is deposited. Reflective particles can take on a wide variety of shapes. For example, glitter can be cubic, platelet, or needle-shaped, or it can be formed or cut to a specific shape, such as a hexagon, oval, circular, square, etc.

[0026] The flakes have, in particular, a maximum diameter size in the principal direction of particle extension. This diameter ranges in particular from 0.02 mm to 7.0 mm, in particular from 0.05 mm to 6.0 mm, more particularly from 0.06 mm to 2.0 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm, more preferably from 100 pm to 400 pm.

[0027] In particular, the glitter according to the invention comprises a support containing at least 60% by weight of cellulose and / or one of its derivatives.

[0028] Cellulose derivatives can be selected from cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose propionates, cellulose acetate propionates, cellulose butyrates, cellulose acetate butyrates, regenerated celluloses (INCI name: Rayon) or cellulose hydrates, such as cellophane, and mixtures of two or more cellulose derivatives.

[0029] It is not excluded that the glitter may also be composed of other additional products, distinct from cellulose and its derivatives, such as polylactic acid (PLA), polyvinyl alcohol, polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) or polybutylene adipate terephthalate.

[0030] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the support for the sequins according to the invention comprises at least 70% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, in particular at least 80% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, and preferably at least 90% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support for the sequins according to the invention comprises at least 95% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, in particular at least 99% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, preferably at least 99.5% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, and even more preferably at least 99.9% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives.

[0032] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support for the glitter is exclusively composed of cellulose or one of its derivatives, more preferably, the support for the glitter is exclusively composed of cellulose, regenerated cellulose (INCI name: Rayon) or cellulose acetate.

[0033] However, the glitter support may also include additives such as anti-blocking or lubricating agents. The glitter support may contain from 0% to 2.5% by weight of additives, more preferably from 0% to 1% by weight of additives.

[0034] According to a particular embodiment, the support may also be free of additives.

[0035] The glitter support is also coated with a metallic pigment, in particular an aluminum pigment, a copper pigment, a silver pigment, a gold pigment, or an alloy of these metals. More preferably, the metallic pigment is an aluminum pigment.

[0036] The glitter can be coated on one side, two sides or entirely.

[0037] The glitter according to the invention is, in particular, silver or with an effect holographic, and advantageously biodegradable.

[0038] Such reflective glitter is described in particular in US applications 2020 / 0214951 and US 2019 / 0314261.

[0039] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the glitter is chosen from the glitter marketed by Sigmund Lindner, preferably from the glitter marketed by Sigmund Lindner under the names Siliglam Pure Biosparkle® and Siliglam Pure nature®.

[0040] Preferably, the reflective glitter is selected from uncolored particles or particles with a holographic or silvery effect. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose, regenerated cellulose, or cellulose acetate, and more preferably regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate.

[0041] Preferably, the glitter comprises a support comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of cellulose and / or cellulose derivative, preferably cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises silver-plated, biodegradable glitter composed of cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate.

[0043] More specifically, the glitter used is Sigmund Lindner glitter, more specifically glitter from the Siliglam Pure BioSparkle® and Siliglam Pure Nature® ranges.

[0044] According to one embodiment of the invention, said optical effect material(s) (ii) selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% in weight, preferably from 3% to 9% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] According to a preferred embodiment, the reflective glitter considered according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight of polymers or copolymers selected from polyethylene terephthalate, butylene polyethylene terephthalate, acrylate polymers, styrene acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes and their mixtures, relative to their total weight.

[0046] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention advantageously comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of polymers or copolymers selected from polyethylene terephthalate, butylene terephthalate, acrylate polymers, styrene acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of such polymers and copolymers.

[0048] As stated above, the reflective glitter required according to the invention is combined with one or more mother-of-pearl particles. Mother-of-pearl (i)

[0049] By “mother-of-pearl”, we mean particles of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthesized, and which exhibit at least one color effect by optical interference.

[0050] The mother-of-pearls suitable for the invention are more particularly mother-of-pearls based on natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicate, alumina, silica, bismuth oxychloride, or combinations thereof. Preferably, the mother-of-pearls usable within the scope of the present invention are based on natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicates, such as calcium aluminum borosilicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, alumina, and combinations thereof, optionally combined with silica and / or bismuth oxychloride.

[0051] Preferably, the nacres usable within the framework of the invention comprise at least natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicates, such as those mentioned above, as well as their combinations, possibly combined with alumina and / or silica.

[0052] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nacres chosen from among nacres based on natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicates, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from among nacres based on natural mica and / or synthetic mica.

[0053] As previously stated, the mother-of-pearl(s) contain at least one mineral species based on at least one metal, chosen for example from iron, tin, the Chromium, titanium, and their combinations. More specifically, metal oxides are suitable, such as iron, chromium, tin, titanium oxides, or ferric ferrocyanide.

[0054] Preferably, the mineral species is chosen from iron, tin or titanium oxides, and ferric ferrocyanide, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0055] Mother-of-pearl may also include at least one organic, synthetic, natural or naturally derived pigment.

[0056] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0057] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915, CI 75470,and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenolic derivatives as described in French patent FR 2 679 771. It should be noted that the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of carmine, relative to the total weight of the composition, if such a natural coloring matter is present.

[0058] Among the suitable mother-of-pearls for the invention, we can mention particles of natural mica, synthetic mica and / or borosilicate, on the surface of which are superimposed, at least in part, at least two layers, preferably successive, of a mineral species, preferably colored, for example a metallic oxide or ferric ferrocyanide and / or an organic coloring matter.

[0059] The mother-of-pearls suitable for the invention more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0060] Among the commercially available mother-of-pearls, we can mention Timica, Flamenco, Cloisonne, Chroma-lite and Duocrome (mica-based) mother-of-pearls distributed by the Sun Chemical, Reflecks mother-of-pearl (borosilicate-based) marketed by Sun Chemical, Timiron, Colorona, Dicrona (mica-based) and Xirona (silica-based) marketed by Merck, Sudarshan Prestige mother-of-pearl (mica-based), Mirage mother-of-pearl (borosilicate-based) marketed by Eckart, Sunshine and Intenza mother-of-pearl marketed by Sun Chemical (synthetic mica-based) and Helios mother-of-pearl marketed by TOPY (synthetic mica-based).

[0061] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the nacres are chosen from those having an average particle size (corresponding to D50 (average diameter, measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to the person skilled in the art) of at least 70 pm, preferably at least 100 pm, and less than or equal to 200 pm.

[0062] According to one embodiment of the invention, said nacre(s) (i) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight and preferably from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils (iii)

[0063] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or mixtures thereof.

[0064] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0065] According to a particular embodiment, said oil(s), non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or mixtures thereof, is / are present in a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Furthermore, advantageously, the content of oil(s), non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or mixtures thereof, can go up to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile oils

[0067] According to a first particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil.

[0068] By "oil" is meant liquid compounds, immiscible in water, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa).

[0069] By "immiscible in water", it is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is made with the eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to make a vortex appear within the mixture (for guidance from 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to rest, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0070] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0071] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is classically used to refer to an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils according to the invention contain only carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and possibly nitrogen atoms.

[0072] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils

[0073] According to a first variant, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from liquid polyesters obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; vegetable oils; non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than the liquid polyesters obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer mentioned above; hydroxylated ester oils; ether or carbonate oils; alcohol oils; and mixtures thereof. Liquid polyester

[0074] The composition may therefore at least include, as a non-volatile oil, at least one liquid polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0075] Liquid polyester is understood to mean polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25 °C).

[0076] In the context of the present invention, "unsaturated fatty acid" means fatty acids comprising 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bond).

[0077] Representative examples of these unsaturated fatty acids include palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0078] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is more particularly obtained by intermolecular polymerization reaction, in particular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It is derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially at C16-C22, and more particularly at C18.

[0079] In particular, the liquid polyester used in the present invention is obtained from a diacid dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by total or partial hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds, preferably total.

[0080] It can also be obtained from a mixture containing it. In such a case, it is preferable to use a mixture in which the content of this diacid dimer is greater than 70%, more particularly greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferably greater than 95% by weight, the remainder of the mixture being trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0081] Furthermore, according to a first embodiment of the invention, the liquid polyester can be obtained by reacting the aforementioned acid dimer with at least one C3-C4 diol, preferably linear, preferably saturated.

[0082] Preferably, the diol is 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

[0083] In particular, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g / mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g / mol, and preferably between 1200 and 1800 g / mol.

[0084] More specifically, polyesters have a viscosity between 3000 and 400,000 cSt at 40 °C.

[0085] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, or of dilinoleic acid and 1,3-propanediol.

[0086] We can cite in particular the dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H, the dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast Green 3000.

[0087] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the liquid polyester can be obtained by reacting the aforementioned acid dimer with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is in the form Ci6-C32, preferably in Ci6-C 22-

[0088] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diol dimer" refers more particularly to saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above.

[0089] It should be noted that the diol dimer may also contain other components, for example, a triol trimer, a monoalcohol, and ether-like compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the dimeric acid and / or its lower alcohol ester, used as a raw material. Products with a diol dimer content exceeding 70% by weight may be used, but a high-purity diol dimer is preferred, such as a compound with a diol dimer content exceeding 90% by weight.

[0090] Thus, a diol dimer can be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid in particular in Ci6 to C32, such as those mentioned above, in particular in Ci6 to C22, and more particularly in Ci8.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the diol dimer is derived from the hydrogenation of the acid functions of dilinoleic diacid.

[0092] More specifically, this refers to the diol dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by hydrogenation of the acidic groups. The diol dimer may be in its saturated form, that is, without any carbon-carbon double bonds. According to another embodiment, any carbon-carbon double bonds of the diol dimer are all or partially hydrogenated after esterification of the diacid dimer with the diol dimer. Hydrogenated forms, particularly fully hydrogenated forms, are preferred.

[0093] By way of illustration of the esters suitable for the invention, the following products (INCI name) may be cited in particular: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed in particular by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0094] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the liquid polyester is chosen from the following INCI name compounds: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer, and their mixtures. Vegetable oils

[0095] Examples of vegetable oils include those selected from jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, oil peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, castor oil, lesquerella oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof.

[0096] More specifically, the vegetable oil is chosen from sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, castor oil, alone or in mixtures. Non-hydroxylated ester oils

[0097] By way of non-hydroxylated ester oils, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 80 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, different from the aforementioned liquid polyesters, the following may be mentioned in particular: - monoesters, saturated or unsaturated, of monocarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, in particular Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoate of alcohols in the 2 to 5 groups, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate of 2-Ethylhexyl, 2-Hexyldecyl laurate, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, - Diesters, for example, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, preferably diisostearyl malate, or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, - Tricarboxylic acid and monoalcohol triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, - total esters of glycerin, diglycerin, pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, capric acid triglyceride alone or in mixtures, such as capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, triglycerides of Ci8 36 acid, decyl-2 tetradecanoate triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate (INCI name, for example Supermol L products from the Croda company), - as well as their mixtures. Hydroxylated ester oils

[0098] Among the hydroxylated ester oils, in particular those which can be selected from hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 20 to 70, such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate.

[0099] Examples also include partial esters of glycerin or polyglycerin comprising 2 to 8 glycerol units, for example glycerin stearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof. Ether or carbonate oils

[0100] The non-volatile oil may be selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which the R, R' groups, identical or not, represent a hydrocarbon group comprising fewer than 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-C16. For example, dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-C15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned. Fatty alcohol

[0101] The oil (iii) may be selected from C8-C30 alcohols, more particularly mono-alcohols, liquid at room temperature, saturated or unsaturated. Examples include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecylic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, undecyl pentadecanol alcohol, octyldodecanol, as well as mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols, such as C30-C50, C20-C40, and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0102] The oil (iii) may also be selected from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and preferably saturated.

[0103] Non-volatile, linear or branched, non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0104] Said nonpolar, linear or branched oils may be of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin and in particular selected from: - paraffin oil, - squalane, preferably of vegetable origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in Ci5-C28, in particular mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15.19 Alkane, Ci8 2i Alkane, C2i_28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by Seppic, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the products of the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil, - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0105] The oil (iii) may also be selected from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils.

[0106] More particularly, said silicone oils are devoid of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0107] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is selected from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Among polydimethysilocxanes (dimethicone), we can mention the products of the Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid range marketed by Dow Chemical Company; the products of the Belsil DM range by the Wacker company, the products of the Mirasil DM range by the Elkem Silicones company, among others.

[0109] These products are marketed in particular under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning, Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures.

[0110] According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from, alone or in combination, non-polar hydrocarbon oils; silicone oils; polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from liquid polyesters obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, as previously described, vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than said liquid polyesters, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] According to this particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of non-volatile oil(s).

[0112] According to a first variant of the invention, the composition comprises, as a non-volatile oil, at least one liquid polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly at least one compound (INCI names), alone or in mixtures, selected from Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 40% to 70% by weight of liquid polyester(s) obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 40% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] According to this variant, the composition may further include at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils other than said liquid polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0115] According to another variant of the invention, the non-volatile oil content varies from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] According to this variant, the oil or oils are more particularly chosen from among silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, as well as mixtures thereof. Volatile oils

[0117] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil, selected from hydrocarbon or silicone oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0118] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular going to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly going to 1300 Pa.

[0119] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (i.e. non-polar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen).

[0120] In particular, they can be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, - linear alkanes, for example in Cn-Cl5, alone or in mixtures, and - their mixtures.

[0121] Volatile silicone oils can be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0122] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0123] If the composition includes at least one volatile oil, this is more particularly chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably from hydrocarbon oils.

[0124] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon or silicone oil, preferably hydrocarbon, in a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] In particular, the volatile oil(s) content can be up to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0127] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil.

[0128] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-oil volatile selected from polar hydrocarbon oils, non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0129] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils selected from non-hydroxylated ester oils other than said liquid polyester, ether or carbonate oils, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils selected from non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than said liquid polyester, ether or carbonate oils, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] According to a further more particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils, polar hydrocarbon oils selected from esters comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 80 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, devoid of free hydroxyl group, vegetable oils; dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, alone or in mixtures.

[0132] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from squalane, preferably squalane of vegetable origin, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, castor oil, alone or in mixtures.

[0133] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil in a content greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] The content of non-volatile oil(s) may also be up to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] The composition according to the invention more particularly comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in a content ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] More particularly, the content of non-volatile oil(s) selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof, may range from 10% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. solid fats

[0137] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also include at least one solid fat, in particular chosen from waxes, pasty fat compounds, or mixtures thereof. Waxes

[0138] The composition according to the invention may include at least one wax, preferably different from glyceryl trihydroxystearate (Trihydroxystearin - INCI name).

[0139] By waxes, we mean solid fatty compounds, insoluble in water, in particular having a melting point between 40 °C and 120 °C, more advantageously between 45 °C and 100 °C, and even more preferably from 50 °C to 100 °C.

[0140] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0141] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of wax of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible “hermetically sealed aluminum capsule”. The sample is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature increase, the value of melting temperature of the solid fat which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0142] More specifically, the waxes are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, ester hydrocarbon waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, that is to say, comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure, we can mention in particular polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0144] Among the hydrocarbon ester waxes, we can mention fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, total esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid in Ci6-C3o, these waxes not comprising a free hydroxyl group, waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0145] In particular, mention may be made of fatty acid ester waxes of the formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen. In particular, cetyl palmitate and C2O-C4O alkyl stearates may be used as waxes. Such waxes are notably sold under the name Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen. Mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols may also be used, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MB AL, Crodamol MS PA from Croda, and Miraceti from Laserson.

[0146] Also suitable as ester waxes are the diesters of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0147] Total esters of a saturated Ci6-C30 carboxylic acid can also be used with glycerol, for example tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixture.

[0148] Waxes of animal or vegetable origin can also be used, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, especially refined.

[0149] It would also be possible to use at least one wax chosen from those obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils. In particular, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty acid chains, for example, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax® Ricin 16L64 and Phytowax® Ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR2792190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol include those sold under the names Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57 and Phytowax® Olive 12 L 44.

[0150] Among the possible waxes, one can also mention fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-triacontanol alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols), and mixtures of C30-C50 alcohols, in C20-C40. For example, one can mention the waxes marketed under the name Performacol by NuCera Solutions.

[0151] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one solid fat, in particular selected from waxes, preferably different from trihydroxystearine, preferably selected from beeswax, paraffin wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, fatty acid ester waxes, in particular cetyl palmitate, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] If the composition includes it, the wax content(s) is preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly varies from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] If the composition is in a non-solid form, then the wax content(s), if the composition includes any, is preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] If the composition is in solid form, then the wax content(s) is more particularly from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compounds

[0155] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one paste-like compound, more particularly apolar or polar hydrocarbon.

[0156] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic solid compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a melting point below 25 °C.

[0157] The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0158] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 °C to 100 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then is cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0159] Among the pasty compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention Vaseline (INCI name Petrolatum) among the nonpolar hydrocarbon compounds (in other words, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure).

[0160] Among polar pasty hydrocarbon compounds, ester-type compounds are used more particularly.

[0161] Examples include lanolins and their derivatives, such as acetylated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Suitable are also butters of vegetable origin such as shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] We can also mention esters derived from pentaerythritol, such as the products with the INCI name Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxy stearate / Tetraisostearate, marketed for example under the name Cosmol 168ev by the company Nisshin Oillio; triglycerides of saturated fatty acids or of hydrogenated fatty acids such as the products with the INCI name Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, respectively marketed under the names Softisan 378 and Softisan 100, by the company IOI Oleo, and their mixtures.

[0164] Vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, for example soybean, coconut, rapeseed, jojoba, olive, castor oil, and mixtures thereof, can also be used as a paste compound.

[0165] Hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as the products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (for example marketed under the name Risocast DA-L, by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) or Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate (marketed in particular under the name Salacos HCISV-L by the company Nisshin OilliO), may be suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0166] Among the paste compounds, we can also mention Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name) notably marketed under the brand Softisan 649 by the company IOI Oleo, or diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol(s) or free acid(s) function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the products marketed under the brand Plandool such as Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) under the name Plandool G, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) under the names Plandool H or Plandool S, marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical Company.

[0167] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one solid fat body selected from pasty compounds, preferably selected from vegetable butters, vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, preferably partially hydrogenated, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate / Tetraisostearate, Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] If the composition includes them, the content of pasty fatty compound(s) will in particular range from 0.5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] According to a first variant, more particularly the content of pasty fatty compound(s) varies from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] According to a second variant, the content of pasty fatty compound(s) varies from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic thickening agent

[0171] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic thickening agent. Silicas

[0172] The composition according to the invention may also include, as a lipophilic thickening agent, a pyrogenated silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Pyrogenated silica

[0173] Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

[0174] Hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot. - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot. Silica aerogels

[0175] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0176] They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents pore contraction and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying stages are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0177] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 100 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.

[0178] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0179] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0180] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0181] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm, and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0182] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).

[0183] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated by silylation agents, for example by halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups by silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0184] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0185] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0186] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, one can cite, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0187] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100, Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

[0188] Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0189] Preferably, if the composition includes silica, it is chosen from fumed silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Glyceryl trihydroxystearate

[0190] The lipophilic thickening agent usable within the scope of the present invention may also be glyceryl trihydroxystearate (or trihydroxystearin – INCI name), which is therefore the triester of glycerin and 12-hydroxystearic acid. This product is, for example, marketed under the name Thixcin® by Elementis Specialties.

[0191] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, this compound is preferably used in the composition preparation process at a temperature below its melting point. However, it is also possible to use it like a wax, that is, at a temperature above its melting point.

[0192] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least glyceryl trihydroxystearate. Dextrin esters

[0193] According to another embodiment, the lipophilic thickening agent is chosen from dextrin esters, more particularly, a dextrin and fatty acid ester, preferably in C8-C30.

[0194] More particularly, the dextrin and fatty acid ester corresponds to formula (I):

[0195] [Chem.l]

[0196] in which: - the Rb radicals R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, or even 12 to 18, carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said Rb radicals R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer between 3 and 150, specifically between 10 and 100, and preferably between 15 and 40.

[0197] Preferably, the three Rb radicals R2 and R3 are different from hydrogen, leading to dextrin esters having the following formula (II):

[0198] [Chem.2]

[0199] in which: - the radicals R'b, R'2 and R'3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possessing 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms, - n is an integer between 3 and 150, specifically between 10 and 100, and preferably between 15 and 40.

[0200] In particular, the radicals -OCOR'i, -OCOR'2 and / or -OCOR'3 may be selected from the following radicals: caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin palmitate and / or dextrin myristate. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, notably under the name Rheopearl from Chiba Floor Milling Co. Lipophilic clays

[0202] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from lipophilic clays.

[0203] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in an oily phase.

[0204] The term clay refers more particularly to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0205] Clays can be natural or synthetic. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family, as well as those of the vermiculite family, stevensite, and chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0206] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

[0207] More specifically, clays are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt, such as an ammonium halide, for example, a C22 ammonium chloride, with or without an aromatic group. In particular, examples include halides such as stearalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, or dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, for example, distearyl dimethyl ammonium.

[0208] Lipophilic clay can be in the form of a powder or in a form pre-dispersed in a solvent chosen for example from the alcohols in Ci-C2, such as methanol, ethanol; propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] The lipophilic clay suitable for implementing the invention may be selected from among the modified hectorites with the following INCI names: Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition includes Disteardimonium hectorite.

[0210] The lipophilic bentonite suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from the bentonites with the following INCI names: Quaternium-18 bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quatemium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, alone or in mixtures.

[0211] Among the modified hectorites usable within the framework of the invention, we can mention: - among the Disteardimonium Hectorite: Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone Gel; - among the Stearalkonium Hectorite: Bentone 27V; marketed by the company Elementis Specialties.

[0212] Among the modified bentonites usable within the scope of the invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures: - among the quatemium-18 bentonites: Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP marketed by BYK Additives Inc; - among the Stearalkonium Bentonites, Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA marketed by the company BYK Additives Inc; - among the Quatemium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite: Claytone HT marketed by the company BYK Additives Inc.

[0213] According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is selected from lipophilic hectorites, in particular disteardimonium hectorite.

[0214] In particular, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, dextrin esters, lipophilic clays, and mixtures thereof; and preferably glyceryl trihydroxystearate, disteardimonium hectorite, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] When the composition includes it, the content of lipophilic thickening agent(s) represents more particularly 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxylated solvents

[0216] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one hydroxylated solvent, more particularly chosen from mono-alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] The hydroxylated solvent may also be selected from polyols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups. Examples include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0218] If the composition contains them, then the content of hydroxylated solvents may be less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight. In particular, if the composition contains them, the content of hydroxylated solvents varies from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] It should be noted that if the composition includes water, then the quantity of water and hydroxylated solvents is in particular less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, and even more preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains a water content of less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition according to the invention is water-free.

[0221] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one hydroxylated solvent, in particular selected from monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and polyols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms and 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups.

[0222] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more fillers conventionally used in makeup and / or skincare compositions. It should be noted that the fillers are distinct from colorants, pearlescent pigments (i) and reflective glitter (ii).

[0223] These charges are colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0224] By way of illustration of these fillers, the following may be cited: mica, silica, kaolin, poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile like Expacel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Particles in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789, can also be used.

[0225] In particular, if the composition includes such fillers, the latter may be present in a content ranging from 0.3% to less than 60% by weight, in particular from 1% to 45%, weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer

[0226] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, also called an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, preferably a soluble or dispersible sequenced copolymer in the oil phase.

[0227] Such a copolymer can therefore act as a gelling agent for this oily phase.

[0228] The sequenced hydrocarbon copolymer may be, in particular, a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0229] Such sequenced hydrocarbon copolymers are described in US-A-2002 / 005562 and US-A-5,221,534 patent.

[0230] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 °C, preferably less than or equal to 0 °C, preferably less than or equal to -20 °C, and preferably less than or equal to -40 °C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 °C and 20 °C, in particular between 100 °C and 0 °C.

[0231] The hydrocarbon sequence copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may, in particular, be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

[0232] As an example of an olefin, one may cite the monomers of ethylenic carbide, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0233] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon sequence copolymer is an amorphous sequence copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0234] Preferred in particular are sequenced copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising motifs selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.

[0235] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0236] In particular, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is a copolymer, possibly hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and ethylene / alkylene blocks in C3-C4.

[0237] As a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, examples include styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, Styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0238] Examples of triblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, include styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are notably sold under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® G1657, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, and Kraton® DI 160 by Kraton Polymers.

[0239] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is a hydrogenated styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer with INCI name: HYDROGENATED STYRENE / BUTADIENE COPOLYMER like the commercial product ELLAMERA TER SET 503® sold by Kraton Polymers.

[0240] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of 0.5% to 10% by weight of active hydrocarbon copolymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 1.5% to 5% by weight. Additional coloring materials

[0241] The composition according to the invention may optionally contain one or more additional colouring material(s) distinct from the nacres (i) and reflective particles (ii), preferably at a content of less than 15% by weight, in particular less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is devoid of coloring material distinct from the nacres (i) and reflective particles (ii) required according to the invention.

[0243] By way of illustration and not limitation of these additional colouring materials, pigments may be cited.

[0244] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit. More specifically, the pigments are chosen from monochromatic species, devoid of any color variation effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0245] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0246] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0247] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0248] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. The sizes are measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, and it allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles exhibit by volume.

[0249] The pigment may also be an organic compound or a lake. Reference may be made to the list given previously in the description of these compounds usable for mother-of-pearl. It should be noted that the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of carmine, relative to the total weight of the composition, if such a natural coloring matter is present.

[0250] The pigment may or may not be coated by at least one lipophilic compound. The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0251] For the purposes of the invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally means the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0252] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanics well known to the skilled craftsman. Commercial products can also be used.

[0253] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, and the formation of a covalent bond. In one embodiment, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments. The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0254] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0255] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0256] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0257] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0258] Within the framework of the present invention, the composition may also further contain at least one adjuvant chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and / or skin and lip care compositions.

[0259] Examples include preservatives, antioxidants, surfactants, moisturizing agents, perfumes, bactericides, etc.

[0260] These additives and their concentrations must be such that they do not alter the desired property of the composition of the invention, in particular, they must not impair the color stability properties. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of optional additive(s) varies between 2% and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] By way of illustration and not limitation of a composition according to the invention, the following may be cited in particular: compositions containing: - 15% to 25% by weight, preferably 15% to 20% by weight of reflective glitter according to the invention, - 15% to 25% by weight of mother-of-pearl (i), - at least 50% by weight of at least one volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, - at least 5% by weight of at least one wax, - 1% to 10% by weight of a pasty fat, - less than 10% by weight of non-volatile oil, and - less than 5% by weight of water or hydroalcoholic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] In another embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may contain: - 4% to 10% by weight, preferably 4% to 8% by weight of reflective glitter according to the invention, - from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight of mother-of-pearl (i), - at least 60% by weight of at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, - possibly at least one charge, and - less than 5% by weight of water or hydroalcoholic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] In a third embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may contain: - from 4% to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% to 14% by weight of reflective glitter according to the invention, - 15% to 25% by weight of mother-of-pearl (i), - less than 30% by weight of at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, - at least 25% by weight, preferably 25% to 50% by weight, of at least one load, and - less than 3% by weight of water or hydroalcoholic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition and use

[0264] The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0265] The compositions according to the invention may be solid or non-solid.

[0266] Thus, according to a first variant, the compositions according to the invention are liquid, and can be of creamy or pasty texture. Viscosity measurement protocol

[0267] Viscosity measurement is carried out at 25 °C, using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 wheel, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the wheel within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

[0268] In particular, the viscosity at 25 °C of a composition according to the invention varies from 6 Pa.s to 18 Pa.s, preferably from 6 Pa.s to 15 Pa.s.

[0269] According to a second variant, the compositions according to the invention are in solid form.

[0270] A "solid composition" is defined as a composition that does not flow under its own weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure after one hour. The composition may thus be in solid form in a pot, on a pallet, or in the form of a stick.

[0271] Protocol for measuring the hardness of a solid composition

[0272] The hardness of the composition in solid form according to the invention can be measured using a texture analyzer which allows us to obtain the variation of the resistance to deformation of the composition as a function of the displacement of a moving object in a sample of said composition.

[0273] The texture analyzer measures the resistance to deformation of the composition as soon as the mobile comes into contact with the sample. After reaching a programmed maximum depth L0 in the sample, the mobile returns to the initial point.

[0274] The hardness (expressed in grams or Newtons) is equal to the resistance value of the composition when the mobile is at the end of its stroke.

[0275] The texture analyzer used may in particular be a Stable Micro System TAX-T2i® texture analyzer equipped with Texture Expert Exceed® type operating software fitted with a Rheo's P / 0.5 HS hemispherical plastic mobile.

[0276] The parameters applied are advantageously as follows: - speed before contact: 0.l mm.s', - speed of movement in the sample: 0.1 mm.s', - withdrawal speed: 0.1 mm.s', - maximum depth L0: 1 mm. Capsule preparation #:

[0277] The capsule is a flat-bottomed cylindrical, made of FB stainless steel, with a diameter of 60 mm, a height of 20 mm, and a capacity of 0.05 L.

[0278] The composition, which must be at a temperature of 20 °C, is tested according to the following protocol: the capsule is filled to excess (until a dome forms at the top of the capsule) with the composition to be tested, using a spatula carefully to avoid air pockets and the destructuring of the product.

[0279] The composition is covered with a parafilm and the capsule is left to rest in a thermostatically controlled chamber at the specified temperature for 10 minutes.

[0280] The film is then removed and the surface of the composition is leveled before taking the measurement.

[0281] The thermostatic cup is positioned so that three measurements can be taken: one at the center and the others, on points located equidistant from the center and the edge of it.

[0282] The operation is carried out at least 6 times, and the hardness is equal to the average of the measurements taken.

[0283] According to a third variant, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a compact powder.

[0284] The term "compact powder" means a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction during manufacturing. Makeup compositions in the form of compact powder, preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one powder phase, in a content in particular greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one filler, which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a makeup and / or skin care and / or lip composition, in particular for the cheeks, eyelids and / or lips.

[0286] A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for the lips, or a face or body makeup product.

[0287] A composition of the invention is in particular a composition intended to be applied to a keratinous material, in particular the lips, for example a lipstick, a lip balm or a lip gloss.

[0288] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a lipstick, a lip balm or a lip gloss.

[0289] According to another variant, a composition according to the invention is an eyeshadow and / or a blush.

[0290] The composition according to the invention can preferably be applied using an applicator, in particular a dipping applicator, for example using a flocked dipping or non-dipping applicator, or a sponge, a brush.

[0291] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for applying makeup and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular skin, such as cheeks and / or eyelids, and / or lips, comprising at least one application step on said keratinous materials, in particular on the skin, such as the cheeks and / or eyelids, and / or on the lips, of a composition as defined above.

[0292] Preferably, the process is a cosmetic process for applying makeup to the skin, such as the cheeks, eyelids, and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin, such as the cheeks, eyelids, and / or lips, a composition as defined above.

[0293] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0294] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0295] In the description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages (i.e., mass percentages). Percentages are therefore expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

[0296] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Examples Example 1

[0297] Compositions II and 12 according to the invention were prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in Table 2, considering as white base 1 the mixture detailed in Table 1 below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0298] [Tables 1] Ingredients Quantity Disteardimoum hectorite mixed with Isododecane and Propylene Carbonate (2 / 1% / Isododecane, 7% Isododecane, SEVTOA / E GEL 5L9 Hydrogenated Co-glycerides (Sqjfesn / 0$ ZOZCfeo) 6.9 Beeswax (Cera JZ&s) SJ Lauroyl Lysine (XI-AHOPE ££r. SJ Isododecane (laeos) 77 ç Paraffin Sasoj) 3 J Preparation of the white base#:

[0299] In a tank, all the fats are added and the mixture is blended at a temperature above the melting point of the waxes. Once the phase is homogenized, the mixture is cooled while maintaining agitation.

[0300] [Tables2] Ingredients Quantity 11 12 CI C2 White Base 1 60.00 60.00 60.00 60.00 Anchors Reffecks Traly Turquoise G736L (SIZV 19.40 19.40 19.40 19.40 lutersza Eavy (Sm 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 Pai&ttes Siïigïatrs Psise Bio Sparkle Silver Hologram 16 W-50Â-2hex 20.00 ... - - Siiighm Pure Nature Silv«v 17 - 20.00 - - Cosmetic Bio Glitter 8301 / ÛD8H.FDA Silvèr (RœWd Briïfon) - - 20.00 - Siiiiglatn Pure Silver 26 WA-50-2hex .Ldïdhe;') - - - 20.00 Preparation of compositions#:

[0301] The pearlescent components are added to the previously prepared white base, and the mixture is homogenized using a planetary mixer (Speedmixer brand) for 30 seconds at 1000 rpm. The glitter is then added, and the mixture is stirred for two more 30-second intervals at 1000 rpm until homogenized. The resulting compositions are packaged in a hot water bottle fitted with a dip applicator with a flocked tip, or in an isododecane-proof container. Results

[0302] The compositions according to invention II and 12 are stable without decantation of the glitter and nacre.

[0303] They apply easily, precisely and without dripping.

[0304] Applying them to the skin, either in a back-and-forth motion without reloading the applicator or directly with a finger over a length of 3 cm, particularly on the inside of a forearm for testing purposes, and visually examining the resulting deposit, reveals the formation of a reflective, glittery, uniform, and long-lasting film. In contrast, compositions Cl and C2 do not produce a uniform makeup effect over the entire surface of the applied film. The deposit is characterized by an inhomogeneous distribution of reflective particles, even appearing as agglomerates. Clearly, the combination of mother-of-pearl with reflective glitter... according to the invention, it allows access to a very aesthetic and long-lasting makeup effect in terms of homogeneity and sparkling effect.

[0305] This deposit is also flexible, comfortable, homogeneous and not very sticky. Example 2

[0306] Compositions 13 to 15 according to the invention were prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in Table 4, considering as white base 2 the mixture detailed in Table 3 below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0307] [Tables3] Ingredients Quantity Peniylene Glycol 1.11 Ethanol 1.11 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride (DLS MCT 7O&3ÆS jw Stearfserie 10.00 Tnhydraxystearm J? PC per 3.45 .Pentaery&rity^ Tetraisostearate (Jb / s® 7757 cowæenrâï&é by Ol&m) 27.11 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilmoleate DZL1Ü 7 eowæsFGia Jisé CA®» reai) 55.55 PolyglycerylA diisostearate / pèlyhydroxystearate^ (Ao&k GPS .par 1.67 Preparation of the white base #2:

[0308] In a tank (multilab type), the fatty substances (Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride) and Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate are added and the whole is mixed at 47 °C.

[0309] Once the phase is homogenized, the gelling agent (Trihydroxystearin) is added and the whole is placed under agitation for 10 minutes; the temperature remaining below 55 °C.

[0310] After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the whole is cooled while maintaining agitation.

[0311] [Tables4] Ingredients Quantity B 14 15 White Base 2 £5.0 £5.0 92.0 Sunshine Spectral Russet (Sms C&ewcoQ 3.0 - - Mirage Clameur Red (Ectof) 2.0 -■ - Mirage Glaœour Gold (Ecirf) 2.0 - - Xirûna Le Rouge GWrcfe} - - 3.0 Colorons Ghtter Bordeaux (Merci) - 4.0 - Cloisonné Nu-Antique Rouge Elambé (Swra CAsnsîcaO - 6.0 - Siliglsm Pure Nature .006 hex Silver - 1719-50-2hex (150 µm) (Sfgwanrf 6.0 3.0 3.0 Siliglsm Pure Nature .008 hex Silver- 1710-50-2hex (200 µm) (Sjgjæanc? 2.0 2.0 2.0 Preparation of compositions#:

[0312] The pearlescent components are added to the previously prepared white base, and the mixture is homogenized using a planetary mixer (Speedmixer brand) for two 2-minute intervals at 3000 rpm. The reflective glitter is then added, and mixing is continued until homogenized. The resulting compositions are packaged in a hot-water bottle fitted with a dip applicator and a flocked tip. Results

[0313] The compositions according to the invention 13, 14 and 15 are stable without decantation of the glitter and nacre.

[0314] They apply easily, precisely and without dripping.

[0315] Their application to the skin, in a back-and-forth motion without reloading the applicator over a length of 3 cm, in particular on the inside of a forearm for testing purposes, and the visual examination of the deposit thus formed make it possible to observe the formation of a reflective, glittery, uniform and long-lasting film.

[0316] This deposit is also flexible, comfortable, homogeneous and not very sticky. Example 3

[0317] Compositions 16 and 17 according to the invention were prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in Table 5 below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0318] [Tables5] Ingredients Quantity 16 17 Q2-15 Alkyl Benzoate 1750 18.60 Phenyl Tfùnethîcone (Dm / 55tf Ztow) 8.85 9.30 Caprylyl Glycol 0.50 - Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer (EjHawra Ter Set 565, j&aïW Po / ymers) 2.95 3.10 Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine LWar&ticç ïreaterf S'EL Sa») 4.4g 4.42 Mica (ÀfearZwea CK &») 23.66 22.00 Pedite 2556 Jsîsryr) 7.00 6.90 Talc Qysercœ'e îwjys) 4.41 4.36 Magnesium Stearate 2.80 '2.76 Anchors Cetoroxà Patina Gotâ (.Merck) 2.10 - Re^ecks Pi^oin& ofps^i' G 739Z (SW 5.60 3.59 Coforana. Pttrp / g, - 1.38 DiwiHoœ GSttering GosW G25&9 (SW Cfee-«îica() 4.20 - MAWisiî'æi; vio / et G5S&D (SW CWwîmW} - 16..56 Prestige Pngfe ZeOTan GWi 3.15 - H«ta R380S. fTspy) - 2.07 Parities Sihglam Paste Nature .008 Hes Silver 1710-50-2Hex (Sigmwna' Zindner) 2.80 4.97 Siliglam Pote Nature Silver 1701A-50-2Hex ZiWner) 7.00 - Sihglam Pare Nature Silver 1704-5ü-2Hex 2.80 - Preparation of compositions#:

[0319] The eyeshadow compositions were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 5, then pressing them with a press to obtain a pressed powder format. Results

[0320] The compositions are stable without oil release.

[0321] They are easily applied, using a finger or a flocked applicator.

[0322] Applying them to the skin, in a single back-and-forth motion without refilling the composition over a length of 3 cm, on the inside of a forearm, produces a uniform, glittery, reflective film. This deposit is also flexible, comfortable, homogeneous, and not very sticky.

Claims

Demands

1. A composition, particularly a cosmetic, especially a makeup and / or skincare composition of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one colored mother-of-pearl, particularly based on: - natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicates, silica, alumina, bismuth oxychloride, or mixtures thereof, and - at least one colored mineral species based on at least one or more metals, such as iron, titanium, chromium and tin, and optionally at least one organic pigment, or mixtures thereof; (ii) at least one optical effect material selected from reflective glitters comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or a mixture thereof; and (iv) optionally water in a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;said composition containing less than 1% by weight of carmine, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, said nacre(s) (i) being chosen from nacres based on natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicates, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from nacres based on natural mica and / or synthetic mica.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said nacre(s) (i) being present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight and preferably from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being selected from uncolored particles or particles with holographic or silvered effect, preferably with holographic or silvered effect.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose, regenerated cellulose or cellulose acetate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being selected from glitter comprising a support comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of cellulose and / or cellulose derivative, preferably cellulose, regenerated cellulose, or cellulose acetate.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being selected from particles having a maximum diameter size in the principal direction of particle extension ranging from 0.02 mm to 7.0 mm, in particular ranging from 0.05 mm to 6.0 mm, more particularly from 0.06 mm to 2.0 mm, preferably ranging from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm, more preferably ranging from 100 pm to 400 pm.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative being present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 9% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) selected from reflective glitter comprise less than 10% by weight of polymers or copolymers selected from polyethylene terephthalate, butylene terephthalate, acrylate polymers, styrene acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, relative to their total weight.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said oil(s), non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or mixtures thereof, being present in a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil, in particular selected from liquid polyesters obtained from an acid dimer mono- or polyunsaturated fat, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably selected from Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 40% to 70% by weight of liquid polyester(s) obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 40% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one non-volatile oil selected from, alone or in combination, non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from liquid polyesters obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than said liquid polyesters, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably chosen from squalane, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, castor oil, alone or in mixtures.

14. Composition according to claim 13, comprising from 10% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 40% by weight, of non-volatile oil(s) selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to claim 13, comprising from 5% to 30% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) selected from silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one solid fat, in particular selected from waxes, preferably other than trihydroxystearine, preferably selected from beeswax, paraffin wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, fatty acid ester waxes, in particular cetyl palmitate, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof, and preferably present in a content less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one solid fat selected from paste compounds, preferably selected from vegetable butters, vegetable oils which are totally or partially hydrogenated, preferably partially hydrogenated except hydrogenated castor oil, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxy stearate / Tetraisostearate, Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof, and in particular present in a content of 0.5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one lipophilic thickening agent, in particular selected from silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, dextrin esters, lipophilic clays, and mixtures thereof, and preferably being glyceryl trihydroxystearate, disteardimonium hectorite, or mixtures thereof.

19. Composition according to the preceding claim, said lipophilic thickening agent(s) being present in a content of 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydroxylated solvent, in particular selected from mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and polyols liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups.

21. Cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials, in particular skin and / or lips, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.