Composition comprising at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient, at least one antioxidant agent and at least 35% by weight of a C1 to C6 monoalcohol
A composition with anti-dandruff and antioxidant agents, combined with C1 to C6 monoalcohol, addresses scalp discomfort and maintains good cosmetic properties, achieving fast-drying and stable hair care.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024005663
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair and scalp care products do not adequately address scalp discomfort such as tingling, pulling, itching, dandruff, and burning sensations while maintaining good cosmetic properties like non-sticky feel, clean appearance, and long-term stability.
A composition comprising at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient, an antioxidant agent, and at least 35% by weight of a C1 to C6 monoalcohol, which provides fast-drying properties and good stability, offering a clean, non-sticky feel, and a loose/individualized hair appearance.
The composition effectively mitigates scalp discomfort and provides good cosmetic properties to keratin fibers, ensuring fast-drying and long-term stability with anti-dandruff and antioxidant benefits.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient, at least one antioxidant agent and at least 35% by weight of a C-monoalcohol t at C6
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient, at least one antioxidant agent and at least 35% by weight of a C16 monoalcohol.
[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process implementing this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials. technical field
[0003] The skin, including the scalp, is the body's first line of defense against the environment. It is therefore subjected to numerous external aggressions which can lead to skin reactions of discomfort or, in the case of very intense or more serious reactions, to skin irritation and / or inflammation.
[0004] Skin reactions of discomfort, or alternatively reactions of irritation and / or inflammation of the skin, may be induced in particular by contact with chemical products such as cleansers, perms, hair dyes, or may result from the action of temperature, climate, ultraviolet radiation or even air pollution.
[0005] In fact, consumers may experience problems with itchy scalp (also referred to as scalp in this description), but also tingling, pulling or a feeling of heat, or even desquamation of the scalp.
[0006] To remedy these inconveniences, it is common to use hair and scalp care products which provide short-term effects to address the discomfort of the scalp, with instant relief while providing satisfactory cosmetic properties to the hair and roots, including a non-sticky feel and good individualization of the hair.
[0007] However, existing products on the market do not necessarily provide complete satisfaction and can still be improved, particularly with regard to cosmetic properties, such as texture. Furthermore, these products do not always exhibit good long-term stability, and a degradation of the product's condition may be observed.
[0008] There is therefore a real need to make available a composition that reduces, or even eliminates, the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort, such as tingling, pulling, itching, dandruff and / or a burning sensation, while maintaining good cosmetic properties for the hair and roots, such as a non-sticky feel in line with consumer expectations for this type of product, as well as a clean visual appearance, good individualization (a good unbound character), and which also has fast-drying properties after application to the roots and good stability over time.
[0009] It was discovered, surprisingly, that a particular cosmetic composition made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Description of the invention
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising:
[0011] a) at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient;
[0012] b) at least one antioxidant agent; and
[0013] c) at least 35% by weight of a monoalcohol in C1 to C6.
[0014] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to mitigate the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort and to provide good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, such as a clean, non-sticky feel, as well as a clean, non-greasy visual appearance.
[0015] The composition also allows for a looser / individualized character to the hair.
[0016] The composition according to the invention has fast-drying properties after application and also allows good stability of the active ingredients in the composition; in particular, the composition according to the invention has good stability over time.
[0017] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, preferably for keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0018] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratinous materials, especially human keratinous materials such as scalp and hair.
[0019] The expression "at least one" means one or more.
[0020] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, particularly in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ... ».
[0021] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Anti-dandruff active ingredient
[0023] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient.
[0024] The term “anti-dandruff active ingredient” means any compound that prevents or limits excessive and visible flaking of the scalp.
[0025] The anti-dandruff active ingredient(s) may be chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:
[0026] (A) L-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives:
[0027] The l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives are preferably chosen from compounds of formula (I) or their salts: OH (I) in which: - RI designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, particularly in C6-C12; a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above can be substituted by one or more alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or one or more alkoxy groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R2 designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group; - R3 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group; and - R4 designates a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group.
[0028] Preferably, R2=R4=H.
[0029] Preferably, R3 = methyl.
[0030] Preferably, RI is a C6-C12 branched alkyl radical.
[0031] Among these compounds, l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(IH)-pyridone and 6-cyclohexyl-l-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-(lH)-pyridone are preferred.
[0032] Among the usable salts, we can mention the salts of lower alkanolamines (Cl-C4) such as ethanolamine and diethanolamine, the salts of amine or alkylamine, as well as salts with inorganic cations such as ammonium salts, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts.
[0033] We particularly prefer the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or octopirox).
[0034] (B) Ellagic acid and its derivatives:
[0035] Ellagic acid, or 2,3,7,8-tetra-hydroxy(l)-benzopyrano(5,4,3-cde)(l)benzopyran-5,10 dione, is a well-known molecule found in the plant kingdom. See Merck Index, 20th edition (1996), No. 3588.
[0036] Ellagic acid has the following chemical formula: which comprises four adjoining cycles.
[0037] The ellagic acid ether(s) usable according to the invention are preferably chosen from among the mono-, di-, tri- or polyethers obtained by etherification of one or more hydroxyl groups (one of the four OH groups of ellagic acid) of ellagic acid into one or more OR groups, R being chosen from among the C2-C20 alkyl groups, the polyoxyalkylene groups and in particular polyoxyethylenes and / or polyoxypropylenes, and the groups derived from one or several mono- or polysaccharides such as, for example, the group with the following formula:
[0038] In the case of di-, tri- or polyethers of ellagic acid, the R groups as defined above may be identical or different.
[0039] Preferably these ellagic acid ethers are chosen from 3,4-di-O-methyl ellagic acid, 3,3',4-tri-O-methyl ellagic acid and 3,3'-di-O-methyl ellagic acid.
[0040] The salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or its ethers usable according to the invention are preferably selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts such as triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, arginine, and lysine salts. Preferably, the salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or its ethers usable according to the invention are selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, in particular sodium, potassium, calcium, or magnesium salts.
[0041] (C) Pyrithione and its derivatives:
[0042] Pyrithione is the compound l-hydroxy-2(lH)-pyridinethione or 2-pyridinethiol-l-oxide.
[0043] Pyrithione salts that may be used in the context of the invention include monovalent and divalent metal salts such as sodium, calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin, and zirconium salts. Divalent metal salts, and in particular zinc pyrithione, are especially preferred.
[0044] (D) Selenium (poly)sulfides, among which we may mention the disulfide of Selenium and selenium polysulfides of formula SexSy in which x and y are numbers between 1 and 7, and such that x+y=8. Selenium disulfide is in the form of a powder whose particles generally have a particle size of less than 200 pm, preferably less than 25 pm.
[0045] (E) Beta-hydroxy acids:
[0046]
[0047]
[0048] According to the present invention, "beta-hydroxy acid" means a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms. Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, beta-hydroxypropionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and combinations. Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives of formula (II):
[0049]
[0050]
[0051]
[0052]
[0053]
[0054]
[0055] wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted, for example, by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a free carboxyl function or esterified by an inferior alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group with the following formula: in which RI is a linear or branched aliphatic group, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid. Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and their combination. Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. Preferably, the anti-dandruff active ingredient is chosen from among 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives of formula (I) or their salts, and beta-hydroxy acids. More Preferably, the anti-dandruff active ingredient is the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or octopirox), salicylic acid, or a mixture thereof.
[0056] In a preferred embodiment, the anti-dandruff active ingredient is piroctone olamine.
[0057] In another preferred embodiment, the anti-dandruff active ingredient is salicylic acid.
[0058] Preferably, the total content of anti-dandruff actives a) ranges from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0059] Preferably, the total piroctone olamine content, when present, ranges from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5%, more preferably still from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] Preferably, the total content of salicylic acid, when present, ranges from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5%, more preferably still from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Antioxidant agent
[0061] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one antioxidant agent.
[0062] For the purposes of this invention, "antioxidant agent" means an agent that slows down or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances in contact with it.
[0063] Advantageously, the antioxidant agent(s) are selected from tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid, its salts and derivatives, in particular its esters, in particular ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; retinol and its esters, in particular retinyl palmitate; butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and butylhydroxyanisole (BHA); N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and its salts; erythorbic acid and its salts; baicalin; hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The term "ascorbic acid derivatives" within the meaning of the present invention may be understood to mean those obtained by blocking at least one hydroxyl site, in particular by esterification or etherification with, for example, phosphate, sulfate, or alkylated compounds. These may include, in particular, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, and ascorbyl glucoside.
[0065] The salts of ascorbic acid or erythorbic acid can be chosen from the salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, preferably the salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium salts.
[0066] Preferably, the antioxidant agent(s) are chosen from ascorbic acid, its salts, and its derivatives, tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate, hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof, preferentially among ascorbic acid and its derivatives, and more preferentially the antioxidant agent is ascorbyl glucoside.
[0067] Advantageously, the total content of antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0068] Advantageously, the total content of ascorbyl glucoside ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Mono-alcohol in Cl to C6
[0069] The composition according to the invention comprises at least c) 35% by weight of a monoalcohol in C1 to C6.
[0070] For the purposes of this invention, "monoalcohol" means an alcohol which comprises exactly one hydroxyl function -OH.
[0071] Thus, by "C1 to C6 monoalcohol", for the purposes of the present invention, we mean an alcohol comprising exactly one hydroxyl function -OH and comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0072] Advantageously, the monoalcohol(s) are in C1 to C4, in particular chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof, preferably the monoalcohol(s) are in C2 or C3, more preferably the monoalcohol is ethanol.
[0073] Advantageously, the total content of monoalcohol(s) in C1 to C6 ranges from 35 to 60% by weight, preferably from 40 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] Preferably, the ethanol content is from 35 to 60% by weight, preferably from 40 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Niacinamide
[0075] The composition according to the invention may further comprise niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide).
[0076] Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.
[0077] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises niacinamide.
[0078] Preferably, the total niacinamide content is from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better from 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants
[0079] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0080] The non-ionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition of the present invention are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
[0081] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols; - alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably include one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated; - fatty acid and sucrose esters; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan; - oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters; - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters; - oxygenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides.
[0082] Non-ionic surfactants can be selected from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Cl-C20)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0083] Other examples include condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units; polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups, and in particular 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides; oxyethylenated vegetable oils; and N-(C6-alkyl) derivatives. C24)glucamine, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorphol oxides.
[0084] In particular, C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular in C10-C18; in particular lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-4).
[0085] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from the following compounds: sorbitan saprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; sorbitan tristearate.
[0086] Polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid and sorbitan esters (in particular mono-, di-, and tri-esters) containing, in particular, 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide may be selected from polyoxyethylenated Cl2-C18 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, and stearic acids, and from polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters containing, in particular, 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), - Polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), - Sorbitan trioleate polyoxyethylenated (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).
[0087] Oxygenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, may include sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut (or copra) oil, coriander oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, rosehip oil, castor oil, and oil of rye, sesame oil, rice bran oil, Camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, Brazil nut oil, said oils being oxygenated. In particular, hydrogenated vegetable oils include hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil, said oils being oxygenated.
[0088] The number of moles of ethylene oxide in oxyethylenated vegetable oils can range from 2 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100, preferably from 20 to 80.
[0089] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0090] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated (4 OE) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-21), and mixtures thereof.
[0092] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] Preferably, the total content of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated (4 OE) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-21), or their mixture, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Madecassosside
[0094] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more compounds of the following formula (III): OH CH3 OH
[0095] in which R, represents H or CH3; R2 represents H or CH3; and R3 represents CH3, Riet R2 not being simultaneously H.
[0096] Preferred compounds of formula (III) are madecassoside (compound of formula (III) with R1=R3=CH3 and R2=H) and terminoloside (compound of formula (III) with R1=H and R2=R3=CH3), as well as mixtures thereof.
[0097] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside is used. Preferably, the mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside has a madecassoside content ranging from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, and more particularly ranging from 45 to 55% by weight, and more particularly 50% by weight.
[0098] Compounds of formula (III) and in particular mixtures thereof, may in particular be extracted from Centella Asiatica according to the process described in application WO 2004 / 062678.
[0099] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an extract of Centella Asiatica comprising the compound of formula (III), or a mixture of compounds of formula (III), is used; and particularly an extract of Centella Asiatica comprising more than 95% by weight of madecassoside / terminoloside mixture relative to the weight of the extract.
[0100] An extract of Centella Asiatica comprising more than 95% by weight of a madecassoside / terminoloside mixture (50 / 50% by weight) is notably sold under the trade name MADECASSOSIDE by the company BAYER. This mixture is called CTFA MADECASSOSIDE.
[0101] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a compound of formula (III) or a mixture of compounds of formula (III), in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hyaluronic acid and its salts
[0102] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more polysaccharides selected from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
[0104] According to the invention, hyaluronic acid preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da (i.e. g / mol) to 10,000,000 Da (i.e. g / mol), and more particularly ranging from 2,000 Da (i.e. g / mol) to 2,000,000 Da (i.e. g / mol).
[0105] Hyaluronic acids suitable for the present invention include, in particular, hyaluronic acids of animal or plant origin, cross-linked or non-cross-linked, such as those sold under the name Hylaform® by Genzyme, or hyaluronic acids of genetic origin, including those intended for superficial, periorbital, or perioral wrinkles, such as those sold under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by Laboratoire Q-Med, or those intended for deep wrinkles, labiomental depressions, and facial contours, such as those sold under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by Laboratoire Q-Med. those sold under the name Restylane® by Laboratoire Q-Med and under the name Surgiderm® by Laboratoire Cornéal.
[0106] We can also mention low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) offered by Evonik under the name Hyacare 50®.
[0107] Among hyaluronic acid salts, mention may be made in particular of sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof. More specifically, potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate may be mentioned as hyaluronic acid salts. Sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 1,100,000 Da (i.e., g / mol) marketed by Soliance under the name Cristalhyal®, as well as sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 20,000 to 50,000 Da (i.e., g / mol) marketed by Soliance under the name Renovhyal® LO, may thus be considered within the scope of the invention.
[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hyaluronic acid salt as a polysaccharide.
[0109] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a sodium hyaluronate and / or a potassium hyaluronate as a polysaccharide; more preferably still a sodium hyaluronate.
[0110] Preferably, the total content of polysaccharide(s) selected from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof in the composition ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better from 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] Preferably, the total content of hyaluronic acid salt(s), in particular sodium salt(s), in the composition ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better from 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents
[0112] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more thickening agents, preferably anionic.
[0113] The thickening agents according to the invention are preferably chosen from thickening polymers, more preferably from anionic thickening polymers.
[0114] For the purposes of this invention, a thickening polymer is defined as a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at pH = 7, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps (centipoise), in particular at least 200 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "anionic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups, and not containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
[0116] The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be selected from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides. A mixture of several thickening polymers may also be used.
[0117] Advantageously, the anionic thickening polymers are chosen from among the sulfonic anionic polymers, that is to say, anionic polymers comprising in their structure at least one sulfonic group (SO3H or SO3). Examples include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel™ 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate) from Seppic and crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) such as marketed under the name "Hostacerin® AMPS" by Clariant.
[0118] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not include a thickening agent.
[0119] In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a thickening agent, preferably anionic, preferably chosen from sulfonic anionic polymers, even better from crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate polymers.
[0120] The content of thickening agent(s), when present, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 0.3 to 3%, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably at a content of 20 to 90% by weight, better 30 to 70% by weight, even better 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0122] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more additional compounds, different from the compounds previously described, chosen from reducing agents, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, coloring materials, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, film-forming polymers, fixing polymers, solid fats, and preservatives.
[0123] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any additional compounds and their quantity in such a way that they do not impair the properties of the composition of the present invention,
[0124] These additional compounds may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprises:
[0126] (i) at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient selected from the derivatives of l-hydroxy-2- pyridone of formula (I) or their salts, beta-hydroxy acids and their mixture, preferably the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone, salicylic acid and their mixture, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0127] (ii) at least one antioxidant agent selected from ascorbic acid, its salts, and its derivatives, preferably ascorbyl glucoside, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0128] (iii) at least 35% by weight of a C2 or C3 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, preferably in an amount from 35 to 60% by weight, preferably from 40 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0129] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, further comprises:
[0130] (iv) of niacinamide, preferably in a concentration of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0131] (v) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated (4 OE) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-21), or mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0132] (vi) at least one mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside, preferably the mixture named CTFA MADECASSOSIDE, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0133] (vii) at least one polysaccharide selected from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably sodium hyaluronate, preferably in a content of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] The pH of the composition according to the invention, when aqueous, advantageously varies from 4 to 9, preferably from 5 to 8.5.
[0135] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of commonly used alkalizing or acidifying agents. Examples of alkalizing agents include ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0136] Hair and scalp care compositions according to the invention may be, for example, lotions, serums and leave-in treatments.
[0137] The cosmetic composition may therefore be rinsed or not after being applied to keratinous materials, for example with water after a possible application time. Preferably, the composition is not rinsed. The composition may be applied to damp or dry hair, preferably to damp hair.
[0138] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, preferably for keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0139] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratinous materials, especially human keratinous materials such as scalp, or hair.
[0140] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting to the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0141] Compositions Al, A2 and B as described in Table 1 below were prepared: quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.
[0142] [Tables 1] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (invention) B (comparaison) Piroctone Olamine 0 0,25 0,25 Acide salicylique 1,85 0 0 Ascorbyl glucoside 1 1 1 Huile de ricin hydrogénée PEG-40 (PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) 0,4 0,5 0,5 Polysorbate 21 0,5 0 0 Madecassoside 0,11 0,11 0,11 Sodium hyaluronate 0,11 0,11 0,11 Niacinamide 0,11 0,11 0,11 Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0 0,8 0,8 Ethanol 45 45 30 Conservateur(s), agent(s) pH Qs Qs Qs Eau Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0143] Thus, compositions Al and A2 are two compositions according to the invention. They significantly reduce the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort while offering satisfactory cosmetic properties. Experts observed that compositions Al and A2 according to the invention did not leave hair strands and / or roots visually greasy; on the contrary, the hair was clean, without any stickiness between the fibers. Furthermore, the roots and strands treated with the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of drying very quickly after application. Moreover, the compositions demonstrated good stability properties, particularly after two months of storage at room temperature or at 45°C.
[0144] Tactile evaluation: sticky-feel criterion
[0145] Compositions A2 and B were applied to wet natural hair strands (2.7 g / 27 cm) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per hair strand; the strands were left to air dry for 5 minutes after application of the composition.
[0146] The performance in terms of stickiness on previously prepared hair strands was evaluated by 5 experts.
[0147] The assessment of stickiness is tactile. The expert grasps the strand between their thumb and forefinger and pinches it between their fingers at several points located between the upper part and the ends of the hair. He assesses whether the hair is sticky and whether it catches on his fingers.
[0148] Overall performance in terms of stickiness was assessed in a blind test in which each of the 5 experts assigned a rating in the range from 0 (not sticky) to 5 (very sticky) to each of the strands of hair.
[0149] The results are summarized in Table 2 below.
[0150] [Tables2] Composition A2 (invention) B (comparative) Expert 1 2 3 Expert 2 2 4 Expert 3 1 3 Expert 4 1 4 Expert 5 2 3 Average 1.6 3.4
[0151] It is clear that the hair strands treated with composition A2 according to the invention have a very low stickiness compared to the hair strands treated with the comparative composition B.
[0152] Thus, the composition according to the invention has a very natural and clean feel.
[0153] On the other hand, it was observed that hair treated with comparative composition B exhibited a much stickier effect.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: a) at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient; b) at least one antioxidant agent; and c) at least 35% by weight of a C1 to C6 monoalcohol.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the anti-dandruff active a) is selected from l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and their salts, ellagic acid and its derivatives, pyrithione and its derivatives, and beta-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof, preferably l-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives, their salts, and beta-hydroxy acids, more preferably still from the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone, salicylic acid and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of active film-forming ingredient(s) a) ranges from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the antioxidant agent b) is selected from tocopherol and its esters, ascorbic acid, its salts and derivatives, retinol and its esters, butylhydroxytoluene and butylhydroxyanisole, N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and its salts, erythorbic acid and its salts, baicalin; hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof, preferably from ascorbic acid, its salts and derivatives, tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate, hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof, preferably from ascorbic acid, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the antioxidant agent b) is ascorbyl glucoside.
5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of antioxidant agent(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, plus preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol(s) is in C1 to C4, preferably in C2 or C3, more preferably the monoalcohol is ethanol.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of monoalcohol(s) in C1 to C6 ranges from 35 to 60% by weight, preferably from 40 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises niacinamide, preferably in a content of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is selected from: C8-C40 fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated, preferably comprising from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and having at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain; polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, in particular having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, in particular having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, and their mixtures, more preferably PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated (4 OE) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-21), and their mixture.
11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one compound of formula (III):
13.
14.
15. in which R1 represents H or CH3; R2 represents H or CH3; and R3 represents CH3, R2 not being simultaneously H, or a mixture of compounds of formula (III), preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more polysaccharides selected from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably a salt of hyaluronic acid, better still sodium hyaluronate, preferably in a content of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.5% by weight, better 0.08 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more thickening agents, preferably anionic, preferably chosen from thickening polymers, more preferably from sulfonic anionic polymers, better from crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate polymers. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the total content of thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 0.3 to 3%, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
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