Cosmetic composition comprising cationic inulins, anionic amino acid-derived surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, comprising cationic inulins, anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, and amphoteric surfactants, in a specific weight ratio. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, preferably for cleansing and / or washing keratinous materials, particularly hair, comprising a step of applying such a composition to said keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising cationic inulins, anionic amino acid-derived surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, comprising specific cationic polymers in combination with specific anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants in a specific weight ratio. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, particularly for washing, of keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

[0002] It is known to use liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos) for cleaning and / or washing hair. These compositions are based primarily on conventional surfactants, including anionic, non-ionic, and / or amphoteric surfactants, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of various types of dirt initially present on the hair.

[0003] Among the anionic surfactants that could be used, sulfated surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts, are particularly noteworthy. These surfactants are known to generate abundant foam, making it easy to remove dirt by dispersing it in water, ultimately leading to a feeling of cleanliness.

[0004] In order to preserve natural resources, and in particular water, it is in the interest to offer compositions which make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, in particular when using the product, especially for rinsing.

[0005] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0006] It is therefore essential to propose compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that address these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a high naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more specifically of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to offer cosmetic compositions that are easy to rinse, in particular to save water when rinsing, while maintaining on the one hand good properties of use such as good intrinsic cleansing power and good quality of foam (abundance in particular), and on the other hand excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, detangling, smooth touch, while maintaining a natural feel to the hair.

[0008] It is possible to solve these problems and achieve these goals through the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, especially for hair, comprising:

[0009] - one or more cationic inulin polymers,

[0010] - one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, and

[0011] - one or more amphoteric surfactants,

[0012] the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants derived from amino acids on the one hand, and the total content of amphoteric surfactants on the other hand, being greater than or equal to 1.

[0013] The composition according to the invention is particularly easy and quick to rinse, and makes it possible to significantly reduce its environmental impact compared to a conventional washing composition based on sulfated surfactants, particularly in terms of water saving.

[0014] It exhibits better rinsability compared to usual compositions, while retaining good qualities of use; in particular it allows to generate an adequate quantity of foam, of good quality, in particular exhibiting a nice creaminess (creamy foam).

[0015] It also allows the treated hair to have good cosmetic properties: the hair is particularly supple, easy to detangle, smooth to the touch, while retaining a clean and uncluttered feel (natural touch).

[0016] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0017] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it;

[0018] - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be used there to be substituted, and implies that the limits are included;

[0019] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp;

[0020] - "keratin fibers" in this application means the fibers human keratin and more specifically hair. Cationic inulin

[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more inulin-based polymers, functionalized with one or more cationic groups; these polymers

[0022]

[0023]

[0024] may be referred to in the remainder of this description as "cationic inulins" or "cationic inulin polymers". Inulins are polysaccharides (simple sugars of the fructose type linked together) and can be produced naturally by many types of plants. Inulins are polymers composed mainly of a fructose chain ending in a (2->1) linkage connecting an α-D-glucose to this chain. The fructose units of inulins are linked by a [3 (2->1) glucose linkage. Inulin can be represented by the following formula:

[0025]

[0026]

[0027]

[0028]

[0029]

[0030]

[0031] 0) in which n generally varies from 2 to 60. The cationic group(s) carried by the inulin polymer can be cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups; advantageously, this or these groups are of the quaternary ammonium type. The cationic inulins according to the invention do not comprise an anionic group and / or a group ionizable into an anionic group. Furthermore, they are not siliconized (do not contain a Si-O motif). The cationic inulin according to the invention therefore carries one or more cationic groups, preferably of the quaternary ammonium type, generally linked to the inulin polymer by one of its pendant oxygen atoms. Quaternary ammonium-type cationic groups advantageously have the formula -OX-N+R1R2R3, A, in which: O represents an oxygen atom within the inulin polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by an OH group,

[0032] RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and

[0033] A is a cosmetically acceptable counter-ion.

[0034] Preferably, Rl=R2=R3=methyl.

[0035] Preferably, A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0036] Preferably, X is a divalent hydroxylated radical, in particular a radical divalent hydroxypropyl (hydroxypropylene), preferably linear.

[0037] The preferred cationic inulins according to the invention can be chosen from inulin polymers bearing quaternary ammonium cationic functions of formula: -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which:

[0038] O represents an oxygen atom during the inulin polymer,

[0039] X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and

[0040] A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0041] A particularly preferred cationic inulin is represented by the following formula:

[0042] in which n generally varies from 2 to 60.

[0043] Special mention will be made of cationic inulins chosen from among the polymers bearing the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM INULIN.

[0044] Preferably, the cationic inulins according to the invention have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 500 to 30,000 daltons, better ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 daltons, even better from 2,000 to 8,000 daltons.

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic inulin(s) in a total content ranging from 0.02 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic amino acid-type surfactants

[0046] The composition according to the invention also includes one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids (or amino acid derivatives).

[0047] In particular, these surfactants can conform to formula (I):

[0048] RC(O)-NH-L-(COO )x Ax+ in which:

[0049] - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0050] - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, specifically from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x being equal to 1 when L is divalent and equal to 2 when L is trivalent; and

[0051] - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.

[0052] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the compounds of formula (I) in which L is a divalent group -CH2- or -CH(CH3)- or a trivalent group -CH(CH2CH2-)-.

[0053] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or an ammonium.

[0054] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0055] - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0056] - acyl glycinates, as well as their salts, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, or even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0057] - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0058] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0059] In particular, examples may be cited, alone or in combination:

[0060] - cocoyl alaninate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate,

[0061] - stearoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate,

[0062] - cocoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl glutamate or disodium, TEA cocoyl glutamate (triethanolamine);

[0063] - lauroyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium lauroyl glutamate or disodium,

[0064] - palmitoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium palmitoyl glutamate or magnesium,

[0065] - cocoyl glycinate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate or potassium.

[0066] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are selected from, alone or in mixture:

[0067] - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, or even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0068] - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0069] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0070] Even better, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and more particularly, alone or in mixture, cocoyl alaninate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate,

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids in a total quantity of 2 to 20% by weight, in particular 3 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Advantageously, the total quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) selected from:

[0073] - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0074] - acyl glycinates, as well as their salts, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, or even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0075] - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0076] preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols,

[0077] in the composition according to the invention, can range from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Better still, the total quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) selected from acyl alaninates and their salts, the acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms; preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional anionic surfactants

[0079] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the amino acid-derived anionic surfactants described above.

[0080] Thus, the composition according to the invention may include one or more additional anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate (or sulfated) anionic surfactants.

[0081] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not include an additional anionic surfactant.

[0082] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0083] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0084] In a manner known per se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or in mixture.

[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, anionic sulfate surfactant is understood to be an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), but not comprising a carboxylate function or a sulfonate function.

[0086] Anionic sulfate surfactants can thus be chosen from, alone or in mixtures, alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then comprising preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10, ethylene oxide motifs.

[0087] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols.

[0088] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0089] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0090] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0091] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0092] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0093] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0094] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactant(s) are chosen from among, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, and their salts, particularly salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols; even better salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals of alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10- C16; advantageously in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; and in particular the alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0095] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more additional anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may obviously be used.

[0096] It is understood in this description that:

[0097] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one function carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ), and may possibly further include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0098] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may possibly include one or more additional sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function.

[0099] The anionic carboxylic surfactants that can be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0100] They may be selected from the following compounds: acylactylates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl in C6-C3o)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0101] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.

[0102] Among the carboxylic surfactants above, special mention may be made of polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

[0103] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0104] R1-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)

[0105] in which:

[0106] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a radical alkyl(C8-Cç))phenyl, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or C9-C2i branched alkyl or alkenyl radical;

[0107] preferably Ri is an alkyl radical in C8-C20, preferably in C8-Ci8, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

[0108] - n is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, from preference from 2 to 10,

[0109] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine.

[0110] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different Ri groups.

[0111] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0112] - Ri designates an alkyl radical in the form Ci2-Ci4, cocoyl, lauroyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl,

[0113] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0114] - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

[0115] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Ri designates an alkyl radical in Ci2, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

[0116] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

[0117] - acyllactylates, particularly in C[2-C28, or even in C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0118] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20) ethercarboxylates;

[0119] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0120] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0121] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-).

[0122] They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkyl-lamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0123] Preferably, the additional anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixture, the (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably the (Ci2-C20)acylisethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0124] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] Advantageously, when present, the total content of additional anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, even better from 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

[0126] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0128] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0129] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we can also mention the compounds with the following respective formulas (3) and (4):

[0130] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (3)

[0131] in which:

[0132] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0133] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0134] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0135] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0136] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0137] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)

[0138] in which:

[0139] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0140] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0141] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0142] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0143] - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0144] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0145] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0146] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0147] Compounds of formula (5) can also be used:

[0148] Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n -N(Rd)(Re) (5)

[0149] in which:

[0150] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0151] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in C1 to C4;

[0152] - Z” represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0153] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in the C10 to C30 position of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0154] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0155] Among the compounds of formula (5) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0156] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may also be selected in particular from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0157] Preferably, when present, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (3) and compounds of formula (4) as defined above.

[0158] Preferably the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0159] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 13% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 13% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0161] The composition according to the invention comprises the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids, and the amphoteric surfactant(s), in amounts such that the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants derived from amino acids on the one hand, and the total content of amphoteric surfactants on the other hand is greater than or equal to 1.

[0162] Preferably, this weight ratio can be between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the bounds being inclusive).

[0163] Preferably, when the composition comprises acyl alaninates and their salts, the acyl groups having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms, the weight ratio between the total content of anionic acyl alaninate surfactants and their salts on the one hand, and the total content of amphoteric surfactants on the other hand is greater than or equal to 1; in particular between 1 and 3, especially between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the bounds being inclusive). Non-ionic surfactants

[0164] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular such as those described in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0165] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0166] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0167] - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, preferably comprising one or two C8-C30 fatty chains;

[0168] - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0169] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0170] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and sorbitol esters preferably oxygenated;

[0171] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol;

[0172] - C8-C30 fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0173] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C3O)(poly)glucoside esters,

[0174] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0175] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates.

[0176] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylated, oxypropylated, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylated. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol is in particular from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0177] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not include oxypropylene motifs.

[0178] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0179] As an example of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are mono- or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols comprising 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0180] Examples include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0181] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0182] By way of example of C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (poly)glycerol, C8-C30 acid esters, preferably C10-C24, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are used.

[0183] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants may advantageously conform to the formula RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0184] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0185] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0186] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the glucose, fructose or galactose; even better, glucose;

[0187] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better from 0 to 3, even better 0;

[0188] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0189] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.

[0190] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0191] The non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0192] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

[0193] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol, in particular monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, especially PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;

[0194] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0195] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0196] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0197] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol and

[0198] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0199] Most preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (poly)glycerol; preferably from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even better monoglyceryl oleate.

[0200] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s), when present, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant(s) selected from, alone or in mixture, C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (poly)glycerol; more preferably from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even more preferably monoglyceryl oleate, when present, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0202] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from primary fatty amines, secondary or tertiary, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0203] The term "fatty amine" means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30. Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0204] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0205] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0206] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0207] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0208] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0209] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which:

[0210] - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched;

[0211] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0212] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0213] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0214] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quatemized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may quatemize in situ).

[0215] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is 0.05 to 5% by weight, better 0.08 to 2% by weight, better still 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, shall be 0.05 to 5% by weight, better 0.08 to 2% by weight, better still 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0217] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from among the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2, their salts, and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention, is 0.05 to 5% by weight, better 0.08 to 2% by weight, better still 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0218] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0219] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water, in particular in a total content of between 60 and 98% by weight, preferably between 65 and 95% by weight, preferably between 70 and 90% by weight, even better between 70 and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 4 to 5.5.

[0221] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0222] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0223] A drying step of the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0224] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not intended to be limiting. In these examples, quantities are expressed in grams of active ingredient (AI) unless otherwise stated. Example 1

[0225] A cosmetic composition A according to the invention and comparative B are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

[0226] [Tables 1] Composition A (invention) B (comparative) SODIUM COCOYL ALANINATE 9 9 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 7.2 10.8 Hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin 0.25 0.25 Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE 0.3 0.3 Glutamic acid 0.1 0.1 Sodium chloride 1.3 1.9 Preservatives, perfumes Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Ratio 1.25 0.83

[0227] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off shampoo for washing hair. A / Evaluation of cosmetic performance

[0228] The cosmetic performance in terms of full feel and smooth feel provided by compositions A and B is evaluated.

[0229] Each of compositions A and B was applied to wet hair strands (5.4 g strands, sensitized SA20), at a rate of 0.3 g of composition per gram of strand. The strands were rinsed without any waiting time. The evaluation on wet hair was then carried out.

[0230] The smoothness to the touch was assessed as follows: the homogeneity of the hair from root to tip was assessed by taking a strand of hair at the root and sliding it between the fingers to the tips; the more uniform the sensation, the better the smoothness to the touch. Smoothness to the touch is considered better when the score is positive, and worse when the score is negative.

[0231] The texture of the hair was assessed as follows: the expert takes the strand of hair in their hand and slides their hand from root to tip to assess the presence of a deposit on the hair: the greater the deposit, the more textured the hair is and therefore less natural. When the score is positive, the texture is more textured; when the score is negative, the texture is less textured and more natural (cleaner).

[0232] A score of 0 was assigned to the strands treated with comparative composition B, and a score ranging from -3 to +3, in increments of 0.5, was assigned to the strands treated with composition A. The comparative evaluation was carried out blindly by 3 experts.

[0233] Each entire note corresponds to the following elements:

[0234] + / - 3: very large difference

[0235] + / - 2: large difference

[0236] + / - 1: moderate difference

[0237] 0: equivalent (no difference).

[0238] The following results are obtained (average of 3 scores):

[0239] [Tables2] A (invention) Smooth A (invention) Textured touch B (comparative) Expert 1 +1 -1 0 Expert 2 +0.5 -0.5 0 Expert 3 +1 -1 0 Average +0.8 -0.8 0 Standard deviation 0.3 0.3 0

[0240] It is observed that composition A according to the invention leads to hair with better cosmetic properties, in particular smoother to the touch, and less loaded, more natural hair, compared with comparative composition B. B / Evaluation of rinseability performance

[0241] To evaluate rinseability performance, three drops of artificial sebum were applied using a pipette to strands of hair (5.4 g, sensitized SA20) and distributed along the entire length of the strand. The strands were then wetted and towel-dried.

[0242] Then 0.25g of the composition to be tested was applied to the strand. The strand was then rinsed until the sensation to the touch of the strand no longer changed, i.e. when there was no more sebum on the strand.

[0243] The time required to rinse each strand was compared with that obtained with a reference shampoo (Garnier Fructis Aloe Hydrabomb). The shorter the rinsing time, the easier the rinsing.

[0244] Each expert (3 experts) assigned a score corresponding to rinsing times ranging from -3 to 3, in increments of 0.5, to the wicks to be evaluated, according to the same rating scale as described above. A score of 0 was assigned to the reference composition.

[0245] The score is positive if the rinsing time is shorter, the score is negative if the rinsing time is longer.

[0246] The following results are obtained (average of 3 scores):

[0247] [Tables3] Rinsability A (invention) B (comparative) Reference Expert 1 +1 -1 0 Expert 2 +1 -1 0 Expert 3 +0.5 -1 0 Average +0.8 -1 0 Standard deviation 0.3 0 0

[0248] It is observed that composition A according to the invention is much easier to rinse than the comparative composition and the reference composition.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular hair care, comprising: - one or more cationic inulin polymers, - one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, and - one or more amphoteric surfactants, the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants derived from amino acids on the one hand, and the total content of amphoteric surfactants on the other hand, being greater than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the cationic inulin carries one or more quaternary ammonium cationic groups, advantageously of formula -OX-N+ R1R2R3, A, wherein: O represents a pendant oxygen atom of the inulin polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, RI, R2, R3, identical or different, are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and A is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;in particular of formula -OX-N+(CH3)3, A- in which: 0 represents an oxygen atom pendant to the inulin polymer, X is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of the alkylene type, linear or branched, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by an OH group, and A is a halide, in particular a chloride.;

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein cationic inulin is selected from the polymers with INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM INULIN.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic inulin(s) in a total content of 0.02 to 5% by weight, or even better of 0.05 to 2% by weight, or even of 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids correspond to the formula (I): RC(O)-NH-L-(COO )x Ax+ in which: - R is an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; - L is a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x being equal to 1 when L is divalent and equal to 2 when L is trivalent; and - A+ or A++ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols; The best are chosen from, alone or in mixture: - acyl alaninates and their salts, acyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 24, even better 10 to 20, or even 10 to 16, carbon atoms;- acyl glycinates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or - acyl glutamates, as well as their salts, acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; preferably in the form of salts, in particular selected from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids in a total amount of 2 to 20% by weight, in particular 3 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more additional anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate anionic surfactants.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of anionic surfactants is from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, even better from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants derived from amino acids on the one hand, and the total content of amphoteric surfactants on the other hand is between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the bounds being inclusive).

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; in particular selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular selected from, alone or in mixture: - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18; - esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol, in particular monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;- esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.;

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof; advantageously from amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in C5-C29, preferably in C7-C23, linear or branched, or an alkenyl radical in C5-C29, preferably in C7-C23, linear or branched; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, in particular in a total content of between 60 and 98% by weight, preferably between 65 and 95% by weight, preferably between 70 and 90% by weight, even better between 75 and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. A method according to claim 14, comprising a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, after the step of applying the composition.

Images