Composition comprising an oxidation dye, an alkali metal, at least one cationic surfactant, and a polycarboxylic acid

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of hair coloring. It aims to provide a composition capable of serving as a basis for formulating all types of compositions usable in a process for the artificial coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one oxidizing dye, at least one alkaline agent, at least one cationic surfactant, and at least one specific polycarboxylic acid or one of its salts. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, particularly hair, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to said fibers, as well as a kit comprising the composition according to the invention and an oxidizing composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising an oxidation dye, an alkaline agent, and at least one surfactant CATIONIC AND A POLYCARBOXYLIC ACID

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of hair coloring. It aims to provide a composition capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions usable in a process of artificial coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0002] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one alkali agent, at least one cationic surfactant, and at least one particular polycarboxylic acid or one of its salts.

[0003] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of the composition according to the invention, as well as a kit comprising the composition according to the invention and an oxidizing composition.

[0004] It is known to dye keratin fibers, and in particular human hair, with dye compositions containing precursors of oxidation dyes, such as oxidation bases, notably ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, can give rise to colored compounds through an oxidative condensation process.

[0005] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with color couplers or modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indolic compounds.

[0006] The variety of molecules involved at the level of the oxidation bases and the couplers allows for the obtaining of a rich palette of colors.

[0007] Permanent hair coloring is characterized by the use of oxidation color precursor(s) (bases and / or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). To be considered effective, it must meet certain criteria. It must allow for the creation of shades in the desired intensity with the smallest possible color variations between the tip and root of the same strand (also called selectivity).

[0008] The colouring must also be resistant over time and not degrade in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, climatic conditions, friction and perspiration.

[0009] However, the coloring results obtained are not always very satisfactory, particularly in terms of selectivity, color rise, chromaticity, intensity and / or persistence, especially with successive shampoos, or resistance to light or perspiration.

[0010] Also, hair can be weakened or damaged by repeated coloring, so users often also resort to separate hair care products to condition the hair. This two-step hair treatment (coloring, then conditioning) is more complicated to implement, time-consuming, and expensive for the user.

[0011] In addition, current compositions for hair colorings generally have the following disadvantages: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odor that can be unpleasant, scalp discomfort and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute evenly on keratin fibers (running), especially hair.

[0012] From these observations arose the interest in developing new compositions, which could serve as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions usable in a process of coloring keratin fibers, allowing to obtain a coloring of keratin fibers that is not very selective (i.e. homogeneous from root to tip), intense, tenacious, chromatic, with a good rise of color, and which are capable of leading to colorings resistant to the various aggressions that the fibers can undergo, such as climatic conditions, washing and perspiration, and also capable of leading to good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.

[0013] It is also of interest that these new compositions be not very aggressive to the scalp, that they have good properties of use such as a pleasant smell, a pleasant texture, that they are easy to apply, and that they also give care / conditioning properties to the keratin fibers, more particularly softness to the touch, suppleness, shine and / or a smooth feel.

[0014] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0015] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0016] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0017] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, which relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising: (i) at least one oxidation colorant, (ii) at least one alkaline agent, (iii) at least one cationic surfactant, and (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0018] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention provides better dyeing properties. In particular, the resulting color is less selective and exhibits good color development, intensity, chromaticity, and tenacity.

[0019] The colors of the keratin fibers obtained with the composition according to the invention are particularly resistant to external agents (washing, light, weathering, friction, perspiration), in particular resistant to several shampoos.

[0020] The compositions according to the invention have good qualities of use and good cosmetic properties, in particular an appreciable odor and a differentiating texture compared to the hair coloring compositions usually used with a creamy texture and particularly melts upon application, especially in contact with keratin fibers such as hair.

[0021] The compositions according to the invention succeed in presenting a firm and melting texture upon application, while allowing homogeneous deposition of the latter on keratin fibers (no drips), in particular keratin fibers such as hair.

[0022] It has been observed that the compositions according to the invention lead to good scalp comfort during application.

[0023] It has also been found that hair treated in this way is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more manageable.

[0024] In addition, the compositions according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, in particular by not comprising any or very few compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0025] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibers.

[0026] The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition.

[0027] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.

[0028] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included; - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included. - For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers more particularly to human keratin fibers, more preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of this invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty acid" means an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - By "(poly)oxyalkylated compound", for the purposes of the present invention, means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups can vary from 1 to 150, more preferably the (poly)oxyalkylated compound does not include a glycerol group; - By "(poly)glycerol compound", for the purposes of the present invention, means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably the number of glycerol groups can vary from 0 to 30.

[0029] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free. By the expression "silicone-free", it is understood that the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are contained in a total content less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, better silicone-free (0%).

[0030] By "silicone" is meant all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.

[0031] Oxidation dyes The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye.

[0032] Oxidation dyes (also called "oxidation dye precursors") can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.

[0033] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.

[0034] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.

[0035] Oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0036] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from among the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0037] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0038] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0039] Among the paraphenylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[α-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-γ-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and their addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.

[0040] Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[>-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, and N,N- bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.

[0041] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and addition salts corresponding, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0042] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned, we find for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and addition salts, solvates and solvates of salts.

[0043] Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned, we find for example 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0044] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.

[0045] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0046] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that can be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0047] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, possibly cationic, possibly substituted by one or more (CrC6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0048] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0049] Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-Isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-1-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

[0050] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole shall preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.

[0051] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-Diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, their salts, their solvates, and / or solvates of their salts.

[0052] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used.

[0053] Preferably, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used as heterocyclic bases.

[0054] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from among 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, even better 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0056] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases selected from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) selected from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5%, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0057] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation bases selected from paraphenylenediamine, paratoluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

[0058] The oxidation dye(s) can also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for staining keratin fibers.

[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.

[0060] Among the useful couplers according to the invention, we can in particular mention metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.

[0061] Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4- methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(|3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts and the corresponding mixtures.

[0062] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0063] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0064] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.

[0065] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5%, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0066] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes selected from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

[0069] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially among 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.

[0070] Preferably, the total content of oxidation dye(s) in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5%, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one direct colorant.

[0072] These direct colorants can be synthetic or natural.

[0073] By "direct dye," we mean colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.

[0074] These synthetic direct dyes are chosen for example from those classically used in direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methinic, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinonic, indoamine, phthalocyanic and their mixtures.

[0075] Among the direct benzene nitro dyes, we can mention: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2 nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2 nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-methoxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylammo-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; lP-ammoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. ;

[0076] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0077] Among the direct hydrazono colorants, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.

[0078] Among the aryl nitrate direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A’-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-pheny lenediamine.

[0079] Parmi les colorants directs triarylméthane, on peut citer : Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (également appelé HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1 ; Acid Blue 3 ; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9 ; Acid Violet 49 ; Acid green 3 ; Acid green 5 ; Acid Green 50.

[0080] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino- anthraquinone, l,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0081] Among the direct azinic dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0082] Among the direct indamine dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino- 5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0083] Natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0084] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

[0085] When the composition includes at least one direct colorant, the total content of direct colorant(s) is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5%, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0086] Alkaline agents The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0087] The alkali agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkali agents.

[0088] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.

[0089] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0090] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0091] By alkanolamine, we mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0092] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0093] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, and citrulline.

[0095] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid).

[0096] The amino acids used as an alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0097] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.

[0098] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof; more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and always better from ammonium hydroxide.

[0099] Preferably, the total content of alkali agent(s) in the composition is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably 2% to 15% by weight, better 3% to 12% by weight, better still 3.5% to 10%, even better 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0100] Preferably, the total alkanolamine content in the composition is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably 2% to 15% by weight, better 3% to 12% by weight, better still 3.5% to 10%, even better 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0101] Preferably, the total ammonium hydroxide content in the composition is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably 2% to 15% by weight, better 3% to 12% by weight, better still 3.5% to 10%, even better 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0102] Cationic surfactants The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant.

[0103] By "cationic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising only cationic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. In this description, an entity is qualified as "cationic" when it possesses at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized into a positively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and does not comprise an anionic charge.

[0104] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] More preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention are chosen from among the cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type; more preferably from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain in C6-C3o.

[0107] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention are chosen from among the cationic surfactants of the quaternary ester type; more preferably from among the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below.

[0108] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants selected from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type and at least one cationic surfactant of the quaternary ester type.

[0110] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined below. [YES] Fatty amine-type cationic surfactants:

[0112] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated), their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0114] Said cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0115] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0116] Amidoamines are examples of cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0117] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0118] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0119] Preferably, the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0120] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0121] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.

[0122] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; preferably from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, preferably brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0123] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may "quaternize" in situ).

[0124] Preferably, cationic surfactants (ii) of the fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; best among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; and even better is brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0125] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amidoamine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from among the fatty amidoamines is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amidoamine type of formula RCONHR”N(R')2, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) selected from among the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 previously described, is within the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, always better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants: For the purposes of the invention, "quaterary ester cationic surfactant" means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0129] Preferably, the quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the following cationic surfactants of formula (A): in which: - RietR2 independently represent a C7-C40 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) CrC4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in C1-C6, and - X represents an anion.

[0130] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0132] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated.

[0133] Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C2i, even more preferably in Cn-Cp.

[0134] Preferably, A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2, even more preferably in C2. Preferably, A and A' are identical.

[0135] Preferably R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in Cr C2, better R3 represents a methyl group.

[0136] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) alkyl groups in C1-C4, more preferably in CrC2, better a methyl group; b) hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C4, more preferably in C2-C3, better the CH2CH2OH group.

[0137] The anion X preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) a alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible ester-functioning anion.

[0138] More preferably, the anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate. More preferably still, the anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0139] Said quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine-type cationic surfactants previously described.

[0140] Advantageously, said quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants may be in the form of a salt, such as a halide salt, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Cr C4)sulfonate, alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate salt.

[0141] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C2i, even more preferably in Cn-Cp; preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated. - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in Ci-C2, even more preferably in C2; preferably A and A' are identical; - R3 represents an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in CrC2, better R3 represents a methyl group; - R4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group in Ci-C4, more preferably a hydroxyalkyl group in C2-C3; or an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in CrC2, better a methyl group; - X represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferably, anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(CrC4)sulfate; more preferably still, anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0142] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C2b hydrocarbon group, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from among the CrC2 alkyl groups and the C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' independently represent a Ci-C2 alkyl group; preferably A and A' are identical; and - X represents an anion chosen from among the halides and the alkyl(Ci-C4) sulfate groups.

[0143] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0144] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, in particular a dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0145] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the quaternary ester type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of the quaternary ester type is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is within the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Preferably, when present, the total content of quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant(s) and fatty amine-type cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) and of cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type in the composition according to the invention, is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group with 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0152] Said polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) according to the invention are different from oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants as described above, as well as cationic polysaccharides and fats as described below.

[0153] For the purposes of the present invention, "solvates" represent hydrates as well as the association with linear or branched alcohols, in Ci-C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol.

[0154] More specifically, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to: - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, where Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or where Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or where Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, where RI represents the -CH(CH3)-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or where Ri represents a -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and to - compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, where RI represents the -CH2CH2OH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0155] Preferably, Ri represents the group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0156] Polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) may be in the form of pure enantiomers, preferably of L configuration, or in the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.

[0157] The salts of the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, their ammonium and substituted ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Examples of alkali metal salts include sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts include calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.

[0159] For the purposes of the present invention, "transition metal" means a metal having an incomplete d subshell; more particularly in oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).

[0160] With regard to organic amine salts, one can mention primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, or even alkanolamine salts. These amines have one or more radicals, identical or not, of the alkyl type, linear or branched, in the form of C1 to C2O, possibly including a heteroatom such as oxygen.

[0161] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.

[0162] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used in the context of the present invention are selected from methyl-glycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-triacetic ethylenediamine acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures; and more preferentially among N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

[0163] Better still, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

[0164] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used according to the present invention are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its alkali metal salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers; better still from N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)- L-glutamate), and mixtures thereof.

[0165] Preferably, the compound with the name Tetrasodium Glutamate diacetate (INCI name) will be used, such as Dissolvine GL38 or 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel.

[0166] Preferably, the total content of polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and their solvates, in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and always better from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Preferably, the total content of N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)- L-glutamate) in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, better 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better 0.05% to 2% by weight, and still better 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] Preferably, the total content of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, better 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better 0.05% to 2% by weight, and still better 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Cationic polysaccharides Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.

[0170] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polysaccharide" means any non-siliconized polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) of the polysaccharide type, containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0171] Cationic polysaccharides are not siliconized (do not include a Si-O motif).

[0172] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in the composition according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0173] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in the composition according to the invention are different from the cationic surfactants of the fatty amine and quaternary ester type previously described.

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic polymer other than cationic polysaccharides.

[0175] The expression "devoid of cationic polymers other than cationic polysaccharides" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in this application. In other words, the composition according to the invention preferably does not comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in this application.

[0176] By "cationic polymer" is meant any non-siliconized polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups cationic, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0177] Cationic polysaccharides may in particular be selected from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0179] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0180] Examples include polymers marketed under the name "Ucare Polymer JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0181] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium is especially noteworthy.

[0182] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0183] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably cite the polymer with the INCI name: Polyquaternium-10.

[0184] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0185] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these Trialkylammonium groups, particularly trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups, are noteworthy. More preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0186] Examples include products with the INCI names "hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride" and "guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 or Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

[0187] Among the cationic polysaccharides that could be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum can also be mentioned, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, the product with the INCI name "Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride" can be mentioned.

[0188] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferably non-associative cationic polysaccharides.

[0189] By "associative polysaccharide" is meant polysaccharide polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Associative polysaccharides particularly comprise at least one hydrophobic group.

[0190] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0191] Preferably, the hydrocarbon chain is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0192] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] Even more preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.

[0194] In a particularly preferred manner, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic guar gums.

[0195] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic galactomannan gums, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic guar gums, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] C2-C4 carboxylic acid esters and C2-C4 alcohol esters Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one C1-C40 carboxylic acid and Ci-C40 alcohol ester.

[0199] By "ester" is meant, in the usual way, an ester of carboxylic acid and alcohol.

[0200] According to the invention, said C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol esters do not contain a monosaccharide and / or polysaccharide unit. Said C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol esters according to the invention are different from the C6 to C30 sugar and fatty acid esters and diesters as described below and possibly present in the composition according to the invention as additional fats.

[0201] The Ci-C40 carboxylic acid and Ci-C40 alcohol esters according to the invention are non-siliconized (do not include Si-O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0202] The C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol ester(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably C2-C32 carboxylic acid esters, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possibly substituted, for example by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups.

[0203] Said carboxylic acid may be a mono- or a poly-acid, preferably a mono-carboxylic acid.

[0204] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0205] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a mono-acid, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) in CrC4o, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22.

[0206] In particular, said acid may be a linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid in C8-C22, especially in Ci0-C20, or even in Ci2-Ci8, or branched in C3-Cn, better in C4-Ci0, or even in C5-C9.

[0207] The CrC4o carboxylic acid and CrC4o alcohol ester(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably C2-C32 carboxylic acid and alcohol esters, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted.

[0208] According to the invention, said alcohol, which allows the formation by esterification of the Ci-C40 carboxylic acid esters and the Ci-C40 alcohol esters according to the invention, is a monoalcohol (i.e., an alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl group -OH) or a diol (i.e., an alcohol comprising two hydroxyl groups -OH), preferably a monoalcohol. According to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise three or more hydroxyl groups -OH. In other words, according to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise more than two hydroxyl groups -OH. According to the invention, said alcohol is not a glycerol.

[0209] Said alcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.

[0210] Advantageously, said alcohol is a mono-alcohol, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) in CrC4o, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22.

[0211] In particular, said alcohol may be a linear saturated (non-substituted) mono-alcohol in C8-C22, especially in Ci0-C20, or even in Ci2-Ci8, or branched in C3-Ci5, better in C3-Ci3, or even in C3-C9.

[0212] Thus, the CrC4O carboxylic acid and CrC4O alcohol esters that can be used within the framework of the present invention are advantageously, alone or in mixtures, C2-C32 carboxylic acid esters, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and C2 alcohol esters -C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possibly substituted.

[0213] Among the C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol esters that may be used, particular examples include esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear from C1 to C26 or branched from C3 to C26, and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono-alcohols or diols, linear from C1 to C26 or branched from C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0214] Preferably, mention may be made of the esters of mono-acid, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) in Ci-C40, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22; and of mono-alcohol, linear or branched, saturated in Ci-C40, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22.

[0215] In particular, one can cite the esters of linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid in C8-C22, especially in Ci0-C20, or even in Ci2-Ci8, or branched in C3-Cn, better in C4-C10, or even in C5-C9; and of linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoalcohol in C8-C22, especially in Ci0-C20, or even in Ci2-Ci8, or branched in C3-Ci5, better in C3-Ci3, or even in C3-C9.

[0216] In particular, one can cite, alone or in mixtures: - ethyl, isopropyl, isostearyl, ethyl-2-hexyl or 2-octyldecyl palmitates; - isopropyl or ethyl myristates, - isoamyl, isocetyl, or 2-hexyldecyl laurates, - isononyl, isotridecyl, cetearyl, octyl or ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoates, - isodecyl or isostearyl neopentanates, - ethyl-2-hexyl, isocetyl or isobutyl stearates, - isostearyl, isocetyl, or isodecyl octanoates, - decyl or isodecyl oleates, - isocetyl isostearate, - octyldodecyl or oleyl erucates, - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.

[0217] Advantageously, the C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol ester(s) are selected from solid C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol esters, i.e. having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0218] Preferably, the Ci-C40 carboxylic acid and Ci-C40 alcohol ester(s) are chosen from C8-C22 carboxylic acid and C8-C22 alcohol esters; more preferably from Ci2-C2o carboxylic acid and Ci2-C2o alcohol esters; more preferably still from Ci4-Ci8 carboxylic acid and Ci4-Ci8 alcohol esters.

[0219] Among said esters of carboxylic acid in Ci2-C2o and of alcohol in Ci2-C2o, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear in C12-C20 or branched in C12-C20, and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono-alcohols or diols, linear in Ci2-C2o or branched in Ci2-C2o.

[0220] Preferably, one or more esters of mono-carboxylic acid in C12-C2o and of mono-alcohol in Ci2-C2o are used; more preferably one or more esters of mono-carboxylic acid in Ci4-Ci8 and of mono-alcohol in CM-Ci8.

[0221] Preferably, one or more esters of linear C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid, saturated and of linear C12-C20 monoalcohol, saturated are used; more preferably; one or more esters of linear Ci4-Ci8 monocarboxylic acid, saturated and of linear Ci4-Ci8 monoalcohol, saturated.

[0222] In particular, one can cite the esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol or stearic alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl esters).

[0223] Preferably, when present, the total content of carboxylic acid ester(s) in Ci-C40 and alcohol in CrC4o in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.5% and 20% by weight, more preferably 1% and 15% by weight, more preferably 2% to 10% by weight, better 3% to 8% by weight, even better 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0224] Preferably, when present, the total content of carboxylic acid ester(s) in Ci2-C2o and alcohol in Ci2-C2o in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.5% and 20% by weight, more preferably 1% and 15% by weight, more preferably still 2% to 10% by weight, better 3% to 8% by weight, even better 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] Preferably, when present, the total content of Ci4-Ci8 carboxylic acid ester(s) and Ci4-Ci8 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 2% to 10% by weight, better 3% to 8% by weight, even better 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] Additional fats: Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional fatty substance, different from the Ci-C40 carboxylic acid esters and Cr C4o alcohol esters as described above.

[0227] According to the invention, said additional fatty substances are different from oxidation dyes, alkali agents, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type and fatty amine type, cationic polysaccharides, esters of carboxylic acid in Ci-C40 and of alcohol in CrC4o, and polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) as previously described.

[0228] Preferably, said additional fats are different from fatty acids.

[0229] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility in water less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0230] The additional fatty substances usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0231] Preferably the additional fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0232] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain bonds Si-O and by "siliconized fat" a fat containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0233] The additional fats useful according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), and solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0234] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0235] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in the range of C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters and di-esters of sugars and fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] It is recalled that alcohols and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0237] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0238] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0239] Perhydrosqualene is an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0240] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0241] As regards fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M; or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoro- methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0242] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol is used.

[0243] The composition may also include esters and diesters of sugars and fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C2 to C22 range. It is recalled that "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides.

[0244] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0245] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the range of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0246] Sugar and fatty acid esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0247] These sugar and fatty acid esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0248] In particular, mono- and di- esters of sugars and fatty acids are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0249] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0250] According to one embodiment, the additional fatty substances useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin; better from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin.

[0251] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0252] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0253] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0254] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0255] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0256] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0257] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0258] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0259] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0260] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0261] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2o to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0262] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0263] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0264] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0265] As a wax, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O to C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0266] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0267] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0268] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0269] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 designates a hydrocarbon group in the C15-C26 position, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in the C1-C14 position ; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxy alkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.

[0270] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in C15.

[0271] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0272] Compounds can also be used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C[2-C22], saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0273] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0274] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0275] Butters can also be used.

[0276] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a solid / liquid phase change. reversible and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.

[0277] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0278] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.

[0279] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.

[0280] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.

[0281] Preferably, the additional fat(s) are chosen from oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, C8-C40 solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0282] More preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, solid fatty alcohols in Ci2-C24, and their mixtures.

[0283] More preferably, the additional fat(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, myristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanylic alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0284] Preferably, the additional fat(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0285] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one fatty alcohol in C8-C40, preferably in C10-C30, more preferably in Ci2-C24, more preferably in Ci4-C22, best selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, even better cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0286] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fats other than Ci-C40 carboxylic acid esters and Ci-C40 alcohol, the total content of additional fat(s) is in the range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 35% by weight, better 1% to 30% by weight, even better 5% to 25% by weight, always better 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0287] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fats selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, solid fatty alcohols in C2-24, and mixtures thereof, the total content of additional fat(s) selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, solid fatty alcohols in C2-24, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 35% by weight, better 1% to 30% by weight, even better 5% to 25% by weight, always better 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0288] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention includes one or more additional fatty substances selected from C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 35% by weight, better 1% to 30% by weight, even better 5% to 25% by weight, always better 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0289] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances selected from the fatty alcohols in C2-I24, the total content of fatty alcohol(s) in C2-I24 is in the range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better from 1% to 30% by weight, even better from 5% to 25% by weight, always better from 10% to 22% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0290] Amino acid type compounds of formula (III):

[0291] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more amino acid type compounds of formula (III) as defined below and / or their salts.

[0292] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds of formula (III) as defined below and / or their salts.

[0293] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in salt form.

[0294] According to the invention, said amino acid type compounds of formula (III) are different from polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) as previously described.

[0295] In particular, according to the invention, said amino acid type compounds of formula (III) are different from oxidation dyes, alkali agents, fatty amine type cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, Ci-C40 carboxylic acid and CrC4o alcohol esters, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I), additional cationic surfactants and additional fats as previously described, as well as (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) and organic solvents as described below.

[0296] The amino acid-type compounds usable according to the invention are of formula (III): ÇOOH (III) H — C — N(H)P R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0297] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0298] Preferably, p=2.

[0299] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC 4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0300] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0301] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of an amino acid type compound of formula (III).

[0302] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0303] Amino acid type compounds of formula (III) may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0304] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0305] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) of formula (III) according to the invention are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc), and mixtures thereof.

[0306] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) of formula (III) according to the invention are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0307] Even better, the amino acid type compound of formula (III) is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc), and mixtures thereof.

[0308] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0309] Preferably, the amino acid type compound of formula (III) is glycine.

[0310] When the composition comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds of formula (III), the total content of amino acid compound(s) of formula (III) is in the range preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0311] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) of formula (III) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention is in the range of preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0312] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) of formula (III) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention is in the range of preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0313] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention is in the range preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II)#:

[0314] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of the following formula (II): Formula (II) in which: - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0) hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups.

[0315] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II), one of their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0316] According to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are different from polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) as previously described.

[0317] According to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are different from amino acid type compounds of formula (III) as previously described.

[0318] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from oxidation dyes, alkali agents, fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, C1-C40 carboxylic acid and CrC4o alcohol esters, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I), additional cationic surfactants, additional fats and amino acid-type compounds of formula (III) as previously described, as well as organic solvents as described below.

[0319] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

[0320] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0321] In particular, cite carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which: - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Ci-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0322] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) may be selected from: - citric acid (n=2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2- ) ; - salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH); - lactic acid (n=0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3); and - tartaric acid (n=l and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0323] Even more preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid of formula (II) is citric acid.

[0324] When the composition comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) and / or their salts, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts is preferably in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, plus preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0325] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Organic solvents

[0326] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0327] For the purposes of the invention, organic solvents are different from oxidation dyes, alkali agents, cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type, cationic polysaccharides, C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol esters, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I), additional cationic surfactants selected from those of formula (A) and additional fats as previously described.

[0328] Examples of organic solvents include: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), in particular polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether; and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0329] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably C2-C30, more preferably C3-Ci2, even more preferably C3-C5, optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0330] According to the invention, organic solvents do not carry an amine or thiol function and are in particular different from amino-alkanols such as diaminopropanols.

[0331] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerin.

[0332] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polyols selected from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and their mixture, preferably propylene glycol, glycerin, preferably glycerin.

[0333] Preferably, when present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0334] Preferably, when present, the total polyol(s) content in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0335] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises water.

[0336] Preferably, the total water content is within the range of 20% at 98% by weight, preferably from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. PH

[0337] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 13, more preferably between 7 and 12.5, more preferably still between 8 and 12, better between 9 and 12, and even better between 10 and 11.5.

[0338] The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents usually used, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0339] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0340] Among the alkalizing agents, alkaline agents such as those described above may be used. Additives

[0341] The composition according to the invention may further contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, anti-foaming agents, thickening agents other than the compounds described above, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, perfumes, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preservatives, and their mixtures. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0342] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any such additives and their quantities so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0343] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, and more particularly in the form of a smooth cream.

[0344] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1,500 mPa.s (i.e. 1,500 cP), preferably greater than or equal to 2,000 mPa.s (i.e. 2,000 cP), more preferably greater than or equal to 4,000 mPa.s (i.e. 4,000 cP), more preferably still greater than or equal to 4,400 mPa.s (i.e. 4,400 cP).

[0345] More preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range of 1,500 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s, preferably from 3,000 mPa.s to 9,500 mPa.s, more preferably from 3,500 mPa.s to 9,000 mPa.s, better from 3,800 mPa.s to 8,500 mPa.s, even better from 4,000 mPa.s to 8,000 mPa.s.

[0346] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 Rheometer, and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0347] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one oxidation dye, (ii) at least one alkaline agent, (iii) at least one cationic surfactant, preferably selected from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) as described above, (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide selected from cationic galactomannan gums; preferably cationic guar gums, (vi) optionally at least one ester of a carboxylic acid in the Ci2-C2O group and an alcohol in the Ci2-C2O group; preferably among the esters of a carboxylic acid in the Ci4-Ci8 group and an alcohol in the C14-C18 group, (vii) optionally at least one additional fatty substance other than the carboxylic acid ester in C12-C20 and the alcohol in C12-C20, (viii) optionally one or more amino acid-type compounds of formula (III), and (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II).

[0348] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one oxidation dye, (ii) at least one alkaline agent, (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type and at least one cationic surfactant of the quaternary ester type, (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI name), (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from among the cationic galactomannan gums;preferably cationic guar gums, (vi) at least one carboxylic acid ester in C12-C20 and of alcohol in C12-C20; preferably from among the carboxylic acid esters in C14-C18 and of alcohol in C14-C18, (vii) at least one additional fatty substance other than the carboxylic acid ester in C12-C20 and of alcohol in C12-C20, selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, solid fatty alcohols in C12-C24, and mixtures thereof, and; (viii) optionally one or more amino acid-type compounds of formula (III), preferably glycine, and (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II), preferably citric acid.

[0349] According to yet another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one oxidation dye, (ii) at least one alkaline agent, (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, and at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) as previously defined, (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI name), (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from among the cationic galactomannan gums;preferably cationic guar gums, (vi) at least one carboxylic acid ester in C12-C20 and of alcohol in C12-C20; preferably from among the carboxylic acid esters in C14-C18 and of alcohol in C14-C18, (vii) at least one additional fatty substance other than the carboxylic acid ester in C12-C20 and of alcohol in C12-C20, selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, solid fatty alcohols in C12-C24, and mixtures thereof, and; (viii) optionally one or more amino acid-type compounds of formula (III), preferably glycine, and (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II), preferably citric acid.

[0350] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is the composition (M) further comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0351] For the purposes of this invention, "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0352] The usable chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agent(s)) may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their possible cofactors) including peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.

[0353] More preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0354] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (M) according to the invention is in the range of 0.1% to 20%, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.

[0355] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition (M) according to the invention, is in the range of 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.

[0356] According to another embodiment C2 of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent as defined above.

[0357] The process: Another object of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0358] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is an oxidation coloring process for keratin fibers.

[0359] More preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular a process for oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, comprising at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition (C2) according to the invention not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent, as described above.

[0360] More preferably, the process according to the invention includes the implementation of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0361] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (O) is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0362] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0363] In particular, the composition (C2) according to the invention can be applied to the keratin fibers simultaneously or sequentially with the oxidizing composition (O).

[0364] Better still, the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least: (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing: - of a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising: (a) at least one oxidation dye, (b) at least one alkali agent, (c) at least one cationic surfactant, preferably selected from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, (d) at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) as described above, and not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent; and - of a distinct oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described above; then (ii) an application step on the keratin fibers of said composition (M).

[0365] This step (i) of preparing a composition (M) is advantageously carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition (M) to the keratin fibers.

[0366] Preferably, the mixture of said composition (C2) according to the invention with the oxidizing composition (O) is carried out in a weight ratio (C2): (O) in the range of 1:3 to 1:1; more preferably from 1:2 to 1:1.

[0367] The pH of the composition (M) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 8.5 to 12 and better 9 to 11.5.

[0368] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, is in the range of 500 mPa.s to 4,000 mPa.s, preferably from 550 mPa.s to 3,500 mPa.s, more preferably from 550 mPa.s to 3,000 mPa.s, better from 600 mPa.s to 2,800 mPa.s, even better from 650 mPa.s to 2,400 mPa.s.

[0369] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, can be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 Rheometer, and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0370] Said oxidizing composition (O) possibly implemented in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.

[0371] The process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention may optionally include additional steps, for example a step including a setting time after application and / or rinsing and / or drying.

[0372] The composition(s) of the process according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to dry hair, as well as to all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0373] The application of the composition(s) of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a paintbrush, by hand or by fingers.

[0374] The treatment process according to the invention is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15 and 30°C).

[0375] The process of the invention may, in particular, include a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described above. It may also include a washing step after applying the composition(s) described above.

[0376] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists of applying to the keratin fibers an effective quantity of the composition or compositions described above, possibly kneading the fibers, possibly leaving the composition to rest on the fibers, and rinsing.

[0377] The exposure time of the compositions according to the invention and / or of composition (M) on the keratin fibers can be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes.

[0378] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water after the step(s) of applying the compositions according to the invention and / or composition (M).

[0379] A possible drying step of the keratin fibers may be implemented.

[0380] Another object of the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined above, for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0381] Preferably, the composition according to the invention as defined above is used for the oxidation coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0382] Device The invention also relates to a multi-compartment dyeing device or "kit" comprising: - at least one first compartment containing a composition according to the invention as defined above; and - at least one second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.

[0383] The composition according to the invention and the oxidizing composition (O) are conditioned in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by means appropriate application tools, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or other suitable tools.

[0384] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0385] The colour composition A1 according to the invention and the comparative colour composition A2 as described in the table below were prepared. The quantities are expressed as % by weight of active material (ma).

[0386] [Tables] Ingredients A1 (invention) A2 (comparative) Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.5 0.5 Ammonium hydroxide 4.57 4.57 Cetyl esters 4 4 Cetearyl alcohol 16.1 16.1 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 0.9 0.9 Hydroxybenzomorpholine 0.3 0.3 2-Methoxy-methyl-p-phenylenediamine 0.3 0.3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.24 - Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) - 0.24 Guar chloride hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.5 0.5 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 2 2 Glyceryl stearate 2 2 Antioxidants, reducing agents qs qs Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Protocol#:

[0387] At the time of use, each of the compositions Al and A2 is mixed with an oxidizing composition O at 20 volumes (i.e. 6% by weight of H2O2) in an A:O ratio of 1:1.5.

[0388] Each of the mixtures M(Ai+0) and M(A2+o) is then applied to a strand of 90% natural white hair (BN) and to a strand of 90% natural white permed hair (BP) at a rate of 5g of mixture for 1g of hair.

[0389] After 30 minutes of rest on a heated plate at 27°C, each strand of hair is rinsed and dried.

[0390] It is observed that the selectivity of the coloration obtained with the composition according to the invention is better than the selectivity of the coloration obtained with the comparative composition. The coloration obtained with the composition according to the invention is therefore more homogeneous than the coloration obtained with the comparative composition.

Claims

1.

2. Demands Composition includes: i. at least one oxidation dye, ii. at least one alkali agent, iii. at least one cationic surfactant, and iv. at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; And Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are selected from oxidation bases, couplers; preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially among 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali agent(s) are selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkali agent(s) is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably 2% to 15% by weight, better 3% to 12% by weight, better still 3.5% to 10%, even better 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are selected from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least two cationic surfactants; preferably at least one cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type and at least one cationic surfactant of the quaternary ester type.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 5 or 6, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type are selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, olaamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably still among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; and always better brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are selected from the following cationic surfactants of formula (A): » 3 (A) A. .xx A rX XX ''X '"XX' \ in which: - R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are selected from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C6 alkyl group, and - X represents an anion.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, and their metal salts alkali metals, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures; preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and their mixtures; more preferably N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and their mixtures; more preferably still tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and their solvates, is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01% to 3%, more preferably 0.05% to 2% by weight, better 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide; preferably selected from cellulose ether derivatives having quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from cationic galactomannan gums; even better from cationic guar gums.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it further comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent; preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; hydrogen peroxide is best.

15. A process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

16. A process for oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least: (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of: - a composition comprising: (a) at least one oxidation dye, (b) at least one alkali agent, (c) at least one cationic surfactant, preferably selected from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and (d) at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined in claims 1 or 10, and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with - a separate oxidizing composition (0) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; and then (ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibers.

17. Use of the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for the oxidation coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

18. A multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.