A PROCESS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING THE APPLICATION OF A FIRST OXIDIZING COMPOSITION AND A SECOND COMPOSITION BASED ON DIRECT DYES

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of hair treatment. The invention concerns a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (A) comprising: (i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, (ii) at least one alkaline agent, (iii) at least one cationic TCA surfactant, and (iv) at least one CGA fatty substance, a') optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water, and b) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye.

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING THE APPLICATIONS OF A FIRST OXIDIZING COMPOSITION AND A SECOND COMPOSITION BASED ON DIRECT DYES

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of hair treatment and more particularly to the coloring of keratin fibers, especially hair. It aims to provide a method for treating keratin fibers, especially hair, comprising the application of a first specific lightening composition and a coloring composition based on direct dyes.

[0002] For a long time, many people have sought to change the color of their hair, and in particular to cover their white hair.

[0003] Two main modes of coloring of human keratin fibers, and in particular of hair, are known.

[0004] One of these two methods is oxidation or permanent coloring. This coloring method uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.

[0005] The second coloring method, called direct or semi-permanent coloring, involves the application of direct dyes, which are molecules with an affinity for fibers and which color even in the absence of an oxidizing agent added to the compositions containing them. Given the nature of the molecules used, these remain mostly on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little into the fiber, compared to the small precursor molecules of oxidation dyes.

[0006] The direct dyes generally used are chosen from among benzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methicillin, azomethine, xanthenic, acridinic, azinic, or triarylmethanic direct dyes. The chemical species used may be nonionic, anionic (acid dyes), or cationic (basic dyes). The direct dyes may also be natural dyes.

[0007] Hair coloring using natural direct dyes has been known since antiquity.

[0008] Compositions containing one or more natural direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired color, then rinsed.

[0009] However, the resulting direct dyes, while potentially highly chromatic, are temporary or semi-permanent because desorption from the surface and / or core of the fiber results in weak dyeing power and poor wash resistance. Furthermore, these compositions require relatively long processing times, ranging from several tens of minutes to several hours (overnight), depending on the desired intensity, without any control over the outcome. The result varies depending on the fibers being dyed and the nature of the direct dye(s) used.

[0010] Also, hair can be weakened or damaged by repeated coloring, so users often also use separate hair care products to condition the hair.

[0011] In addition, the compositions used in current hair coloring processes generally have the following disadvantages: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odor that can be unpleasant, scalp discomfort and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute evenly on the keratin fibers (running), especially the hair.

[0012] From these observations arose the interest in developing new processes for treating keratin fibers, making it possible to obtain a low-selective (i.e. homogeneous from root to tip) intense, tenacious, chromatic coloring of keratin fibers, with good color development, and which are capable of leading to colorings resistant to the various aggressions that the fibers can undergo, such as climatic conditions, washing and perspiration, and also capable of leading to good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.

[0013] It is also of interest that these new processes have good performance properties such as a pleasant odor, a pleasant texture, that they are easy to implement, and that they also give care / conditioning properties to keratin fibers, more particularly softness to the touch, suppleness, shine and / or a smooth feel.

[0014] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0015] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable processes that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0016] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic processes with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more specifically of plant origin while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0017] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, which relates in particular to a process for treating keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) an application step on the keratin fibers of a composition (A) comprising: (i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, (ii) at least one alkaline agent, (iii) at least one cationic surfactant known as TCA, and (iv) at least one CGA fatty substance, a') optionally a water rinsing step of the keratin fibers, and b) an application step on the keratin fibers of a composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye.

[0018] It has been observed that the process according to the invention provides better dyeing properties. In particular, the resulting color is less selective and exhibits good color development, intensity, chromaticity, and tenacity.

[0019] The colors of the keratin fibers obtained with the process according to the invention are particularly resistant to external agents (washing, light, weathering, friction, perspiration), in particular resistant to several shampoos.

[0020] The compositions implemented in the process according to the invention have good qualities of use and good cosmetic properties, in particular an appreciable odor and a differentiating texture compared to the hair coloring compositions usually used with a creamy texture and particularly melting upon application, especially in contact with keratin fibers such as hair.

[0021] The compositions implemented in the process according to the invention succeed in presenting a firm and melting texture upon application, while allowing homogeneous deposition of these on keratin fibers (no drips), in particular keratin fibers such as hair.

[0022] It has been observed that the compositions implemented in the process according to the invention lead to good scalp comfort during application.

[0023] It has also been observed that hair treated by the process according to the invention is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more manageable.

[0024] In addition, the compositions used in the process according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, in particular by not including or containing few compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0025] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.

[0026] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included; - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included. - For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers more particularly to human keratin fibers, more preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of this invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty acid" means an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - By "(poly)oxyalkylated compound", for the purposes of the present invention, means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups can vary from 1 to 150, more preferably the (poly)oxyalkylated compound does not include a glycerol group; - By "(poly)glycerol compound", for the purposes of the present invention, means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably the number of glycerol groups can vary from 0 to 30. Composition (A) Chemical oxidizing agents

[0027] The composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0028] For the purposes of this invention, "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.

[0029] The usable chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agent(s)) may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their possible cofactors) including peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.

[0030] More preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0031] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 7.5% by weight, better from 1.5% to 7.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0032] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention, is in the range of 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 7.5% by weight, better from 1.5% to 7.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Alkaline agents

[0033] The composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0034] The alkali agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkali agents.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.

[0036] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0037] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0038] By alkanolamine, we mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0039] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0040] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, and citrulline.

[0042] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid).

[0043] The amino acids used as an alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0044] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.

[0045] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from among alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as metasilicate of sodium and their mixtures; more preferentially among ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and their mixtures; better among ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and their mixtures; and always better ammonium hydroxide.

[0046] Preferably, the total content of alkali agent(s) is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, better still 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0047] Preferably, the total content of alkanolamine(s) when present is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, better still 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).

[0048] Preferably, the total ammonium hydroxide content is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, better still 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A). The cationic surfactants TCA

[0049] The composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant called TCA.

[0050] The surfactant(s) referred to as TCA surfactants are referred to as "TCA surfactants" in this application.

[0051] By "cationic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising only cationic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. In this description, an entity is qualified as "cationic" when it possesses at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized into a positively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition (A) implemented in the process of the invention (medium, pH for example) and does not comprise anionic charge.

[0052] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA usable in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA usable in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants; more preferentially among fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0054] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants TCA usable in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention are chosen from among the cationic surfactants of the quaternary ester type; more preferably from among the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below.

[0055] More preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least two cationic TCA surfactants selected from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Better, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises, as cationic surfactants TCA at least a first cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type and at least a second cationic surfactant of the quaternary ester type.

[0057] Better still, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined below.

[0058] Cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type:

[0059] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated), their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0061] Said cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0062] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0063] As examples of cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type, amidoamines may be cited. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0064] Amidoamine is understood to be a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0065] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0066] Preferably, the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0067] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0068] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.

[0069] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; preferably from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, preferably brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0070] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quatemized form when introduced into the composition implemented in the process according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may "quadate" themselves in situ).

[0071] Preferably, cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; best among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; and even better is brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0072] Preferably, when the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 3% by weight, better 0.05% to 2% by weight, even better 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0073] Preferably, when the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amidoamine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from among the fatty amidoamines is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0074] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amidoamine type with formula RCONHR”N(R')2, the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) selected from the fatty amidoamines with formula RCONHR”N(R')2 described above is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, plus preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, always better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0075] Quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants:

[0076] For the purposes of the invention, "quaterary ester cationic surfactant" means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0077] Preferably, the quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the following cationic surfactants of formula (A): in which: - RietR2 independently represent a C7-C40 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) alkyl groups in Ci-C4, b) hydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C4, and c) dihydroxyalkyl groups in CrC4, - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in C1-C6, and - X represents an anion.

[0078] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0080] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated.

[0081] Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C2i, even more preferably in Cn-Cp.

[0082] Preferably, A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2, even more preferably in C2. Preferably, A and A' are identical.

[0083] Preferably R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in Cr C2, better R3 represents a methyl group.

[0084] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) alkyl groups in C1-C4, more preferably in CrC2, better a methyl group; b) hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C4, more preferably in C2-C3, better the CH2CH2OH group.

[0085] The anion X preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion organic acid derivative such as an acetate or a lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible ester-functioning anion.

[0086] More preferably, the anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(CrC4)sulfate. More preferably still, the anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0087] Said quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine-type cationic surfactants previously described.

[0088] Advantageously, said quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants may be in the form of a salt, such as a halide salt, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Cr C4)sulfonate, alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate salt.

[0089] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C21, even more preferably in Cn-Cp; preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated. - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in Ci-C2, even more preferably in C2; preferably A and A' are identical; - R3 represents an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in CrC2, better R3 represents a methyl group; - R4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group in CrC4, more preferably a hydroxyalkyl group in C2-C3; or an alkyl group in Ci-C4, more preferably in Ci-C2, better a methyl group; - X represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferably, the anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate; more preferably still, the anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0090] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C2i hydrocarbon group, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from among the CrC2 alkyl groups and the C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' independently represent a Ci-C2 alkyl group; preferably A and A' are identical; and - X represents an anion chosen from among the halides and the alkyl(Ci-C4) sulfate groups.

[0091] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0092] Better, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, in particular a dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0093] Preferably, when the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the quaternary ester type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of the quaternary ester type is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0094] Preferably, when the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0095] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, better 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0096] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) called TCA is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0097] Preferably, when present in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention, the total content of quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant(s) and fatty amine-type cationic surfactant(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0098] Preferably, when present in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) and cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). CGA fats

[0099] The composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance called CGA.

[0100] The CGA fat(s) are referred to as "CGA fats" in this application.

[0101] According to the invention, CGA fats are different from fatty acids.

[0102] According to the invention, CGA fatty substances are different from TCA surfactants previously described.

[0103] By "fats and oils," we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats and oils are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0104] The CGA fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0105] Preferably the CGA fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0106] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0107] The CGA fats used according to the invention can be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), and solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point (mp) strictly greater than 25°C (mp > 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0108] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0109] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in the range of C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] It is recalled that fatty alcohols and esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0111] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. Examples include hexane, cyclohexane, and undecane. dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures.

[0112] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0114] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0116] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol is used.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the CGA fats are chosen from liquid fats, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 atoms of carbon, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and their mixtures, more preferentially among vegetable oils.

[0118] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0119] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0120] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0121] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0122] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0123] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0124] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0125] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0126] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are saturated carboxylic acid esters, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably of 10 with 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly with 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably with 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly with 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0127] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26-

[0128] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Preferably, one or more esters of mono-carboxylic acid in C12-C2o and of mono-alcohol in Ci2-C2o are used; more preferably one or more esters of mono-carboxylic acid in C14-C18 and of mono-alcohol in C14-C18.

[0131] Preferably, one or more esters of linear, saturated, Ci2-C20 monocarboxylic acid and linear, saturated, Ci2-C20 monoalcohol are used; more preferably one or more esters of linear, saturated, C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and linear, saturated, Ci4-Ci8 monoalcohol.

[0132] In particular, one can cite the esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol or stearic alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl esters).

[0133] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy appearance. more or less opaque. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, we obtain a recrystallization of the wax, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0134] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0135] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0136] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2o to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0137] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0138] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0139] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0140] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0141] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0142] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0144] The ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0145] RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30;

[0146] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0147] R3 designates a Ci5-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more CrC alkyl groups 14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxy alkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.

[0148] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear group saturated in Ci5.

[0149] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0150] Compounds can also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in Ci2-C22, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0151] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0152] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.

[0153] Butters can also be used.

[0154] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.

[0155] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0156] Particular examples include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.

[0157] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.

[0158] Shea butter is known to be extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.

[0159] Preferably, the solid fats are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Preferably, CGA fats are chosen from liquid fats, solid fats, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, more preferably still from vegetable oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and one or more liquid fats, preferably chosen from vegetable oils.

[0162] Preferably, the total content of so-called CGA fat(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 20% by weight, better from 3% to 15% by weight, even better from 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0163] Preferably, when present, the total content of solid fat(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 16% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 14% by weight, better from 3% to 13% by weight, even better from 5.5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0164] Preferably, when present, the total content of liquid fat(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 6% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Cationic polymers

[0165] Advantageously, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one cationic polymer.

[0166] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention further comprises at least one cationic polymer.

[0167] Cationic polymers are non-siliconized (not containing silicon atoms).

[0168] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0169] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0170] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0171] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0172] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, the following polymers may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:

[0173] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: -CH-Ç- CH -CH^Ç- -CH-G O=C o = QO=C °=C O o NH x~ At 1 x- At A 7 to 7 । I i IX NR, N+ RNR;--N—H, / \ I z \ I P-; R5 R, R Rç

[0174] in which:

[0175] - R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0176] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0177] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0178] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0179] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as an anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0180] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0181] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:

[0182] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0183] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl chloride copolymers trimethylammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0184] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyeth methosulfate copolymer yltrimethylammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0185] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0186] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0187] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0188] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers quantified products, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0189] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0190] (2) the cationic polysaccharides referred to as PCAs for the present invention, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0191] Among cationic polysaccharides, cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0192] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0193] We can mention in particular the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

[0194] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium is especially noteworthy.

[0195] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0196] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably cite the polymer with INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0197] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0198] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0199] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17, or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0200] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum may also be mentioned, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" may be mentioned.

[0201] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0202] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0203] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.

[0204] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are marketed in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer.

[0205] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

[0206] in which

[0207] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0208] - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0209] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group in Ci -C6, a Ci-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Ci-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate an alkyl CrC4 group;

[0210] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0211] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0212] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: T3?,s --N+-A.-N+-B.— (ÜO I: i ' Rw x' R«

[0213] in which:

[0214] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in CrCi2,

[0215] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0216] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0217] - Al and B1 represent polymethylene divalent groups comprising of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0218] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0219] it being understood that Al,R13 andR15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0220] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating:

[0221] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2 CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0222] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0223] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0224] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0225] Preferably, X is a union such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0226] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: ?! ?! -N — (!Vt 1 " " 1 ' X ' R, x' R, 4

[0227] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0228] A particularly preferred compound is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, named Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0229] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising motifs of formula: ^8 1¾ I r — N+ - (CH A- NH - CO - (CHA - CO - NH (CH A — N+ — A — X- i I $1S (V) v ^21 HAS-

[0230] in which:

[0231] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0232] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0233] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0234] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0235] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0236] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0237] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0238] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0239] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0240] (a) one or more patterns conforming to the following formula (A): —CHn—CH "I NH, Z

[0241] (b) possibly one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (B): —CH.—CH — 4 | (B) NH CH

[0242] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0243] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0244] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0245] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0246] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0247] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following:

[0248] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride), including copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) and acrylamide such as POLYQUATERNIUM-7;

[0249] - cationic polysaccharides known as PCAs, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, including cationic guar gums.

[0250] Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from cationic polysaccharides known as PCAs, more preferably from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.

[0251] Preferably, when the cationic polymer(s) are present in the composition (A), the total content of cationic polymer(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0252] Preferably, when the cationic polysaccharide(s) referred to as PCA are present in the composition (A), the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0253] Preferably, when the cationic galactomannan gum(s) are present in the composition (A), the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0254] Preferably, when the cationic guar gum(s) are present in the composition (A), the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). The sequestering agents#

[0255] Advantageously, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.

[0256] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention further comprises at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.

[0257] The definition of a "sequestering agent" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, that is, it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (forming a ring including the metal ion).

[0258] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0259] Within the framework of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.

[0260] The salts include, in particular, salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.

[0261] Examples of carboxylic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), the N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133),iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid-based chelating agents (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Akzo's Dissolvine GL38 or 45S Nobel.

[0262] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy- 1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-l-hydroxy-l,l-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid)., and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate

[0263] Examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0264] According to one embodiment, the useful sequestering agent(s) according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestering agents, that is to say, sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0265] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) used in composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably selected from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; possibly hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, like etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and their mixtures.

[0266] Preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0267] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from inorganic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, preferably from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0268] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from organic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from etidronic acid (also called 1,1-hydroxyethane acid). diphosphonic) and / or its alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, preferably alkali metals such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0269] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0270] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are selected from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.

[0271] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

[0272] More preferably still, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

[0273] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.

[0274] Preferably, when the sequestering agent(s) are present in the composition (A), the total content of sequestering agent(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, better 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0275] Preferably, when the sequestering agent(s) selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof are present in composition (A), the total content of the sequestering agent(s) selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, better 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Amino acid-type compounds#:

[0276] Advantageously, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention may also further comprise one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0277] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0278] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid-type compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid functions and / or sulfonic acid, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in salt form.

[0279] According to the invention, said amino acid type compounds are different from chemical oxidizing agents, alkali agents, cationic TCA surfactants, CGA fats, cationic polymers and sequestering agents as previously described, as well as (poly)carboxylic acids and organic solvents as described below.

[0280] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0281] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to the formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0282] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to the formula (I): COOH (I) H — C — R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0283] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0284] Preferably, p=2.

[0285] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC 4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0286] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0287] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).

[0288] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0289] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0290] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0291] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc), and mixtures thereof.

[0292] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0293] Even better, the amino acid-type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc), and mixtures thereof.

[0294] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0295] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound is glycine.

[0296] When the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds, the total content of amino acid-type compound(s) is in the range of preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0297] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0298] Better still, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is comprised in the range preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0299] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0300] Even better, the glycine content in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). (Poly)carboxylic acids

[0301] Advantageously, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention may also further comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids.

[0302] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, one of their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0303] According to the invention, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0304] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from oxidation dyes, alkali agents, fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, C1-C40 carboxylic acid and C1-C40 alcohol esters, sequestering agents, additional cationic surfactants, additional fats and amino acid-type compounds as previously described, as well as organic solvents as described below.

[0305] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is / are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of the following formula (II): Formula (II) in which: - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0) hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups.

[0306] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

[0307] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0308] In particular, cite carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which: - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Ci-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0309] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be selected from: - citric acid (n=2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2- ) ; - salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH); - lactic acid (n=0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3); and - tartaric acid (n=l and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0310] Even more preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0311] When composition (A) comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or its salts, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or its salts is in the range preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0312] In a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total content in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Organic solvents

[0313] Advantageously, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention may optionally include at least one organic solvent.

[0314] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.

[0315] For the purposes of the invention, organic solvents are different from direct dyes, TCA cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, CGA fats, alkali agents and sequestering agents as previously described.

[0316] Examples of organic solvents include: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), in particular polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether; and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0317] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably C2-C30, more preferably C3-Ci2, even more preferably C3-C5, optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0318] According to the invention, organic solvents do not carry an amine or thiol function and are in particular different from amino-alkanols such as diaminopropanols.

[0319] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerin.

[0320] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more polyols selected from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and their mixture, preferably propylene glycol, glycerin, preferably glycerin.

[0321] Preferably, when present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0322] Preferably, when present, the total polyol(s) content in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Water

[0323] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention further comprises water.

[0324] Preferably, the total water content in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 20% to 98% by weight, preferably 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferably 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). pH

[0325] Preferably, the pH of the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is between 3 and 13, more preferably between 7 and 12.5, more preferably still between 8 and 12, better between 9 and 12, and even better between 10 and 11.5.

[0326] The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents usually used, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0327] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0328] Among the alkalizing agents, alkaline agents as described above may be used. Additives

[0329] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may further contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, antifoaming agents, thickening agents other than the compounds described above, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, perfumes, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0330] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any such additives and their quantities so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0331] Preferably, the composition (A) of the process of the invention is free of oxidation dye precursor.

[0332] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (A), preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from hydrogen peroxide; (ii) at least one alkali agent, preferably chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and always better ammonium hydroxide; (iii) at least one cationic surfactant called TCA, preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; (iv) at least one CGA fat, preferably selected from d solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof; (v) optionally at least one cationic polymer; (vi) optionally at least one sequestration agent; (vii) optionally at least one amino acid-type compound; and (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid.

[0333] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (A), preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from hydrogen peroxide; (ii) at least one alkali agent, preferably selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, and mixtures thereof; plus preferentially among ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better among ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and always better ammonium hydroxide; (iii) at least one cationic surfactant called TCA, preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; (iv) at least one CGA fat, preferably selected from d solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof; (v) at least one cationic polymer, preferably selected from cationic polysaccharides; more preferably selected from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferably still selected from cationic guar gums; (vi) at least one sequestering agent, preferably selected from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof; (vii) optionally at least one amino acid compound, preferably glycine; and (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid, preferably citric acid.

[0334] Preferably composition (A) does not include oxidation dye.

[0335] Preferably composition (A) does not include direct dye.

[0336] Preferably, the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a smooth cream.

[0337] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1,500 mPa.s (i.e. 1,500 cP), preferably greater than or equal to 2,000 rnPa.s (i.e. 2,000 cP), more preferably greater than or equal to 4,000 mPa.s (i.e. 4,000 cP), more preferably still greater than or equal to 4,400 mPa.s (i.e. 4,400 cP).

[0338] More preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, is in the range of 1,500 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s, preferably from 3,000 mPa.s to 9,500 mPa.s, more preferably from 3,500 mPa.s to 9,000 mPa.s, better from 3,800 mPa.s to 8,500 mPa.s, even better from 4,000 mPa.s to 8,000 mPa.s.

[0339] The dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention can be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM Rheometer 100, and at a rotation speed of 200 revolutions per minute, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. Composition (B) Direct dyes

[0340] The composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye.

[0341] By "direct dye" we mean colored species. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.

[0342] The direct dye(s) usable according to the invention are chosen from natural direct dyes, synthetic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0343] Preferably, the direct dye(s) usable according to the invention are chosen from among ionic direct dyes and non-ionic direct dyes, more particularly from among cationic direct dyes, amphoteric direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, non-ionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0344] Direct dyes are for example chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic benzene nitro direct dyes, neutral (non-ionic), acidic (anionic) or cationic azo direct dyes, tetraazapentamethinic dyes, quinonic dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, azinic direct dyes, triarylmethanic direct dyes, azomethine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

[0345] The cationic direct dye(s) contain at least one quaternized cationic chromophore or at least one chromophore bearing a quatemized or quatemisable cationic group.

[0346] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cationic direct dyes comprise at least one quantified cationic chromophore.

[0347] Examples of cationic direct dyes according to the invention include acridines; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azoic, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzantrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bisisoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines, or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids such as flavanthones and flavones; fluorindines; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids and pseudo-indigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isoviolanthones; lactones; (Poly)methines such as stilbene or styryl-type dimethines; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, including (hetero)aromatic nitro; oxadiazoles; oxazines; perilones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes / carotenoids; porphyrins; pyrantrones; pyrazolantrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoantrones; pyronines; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squaranes; tetrazoliums; thiazines, thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes, or xanthenes.

[0348] For cationic azo dyes, particular mention can be made of those derived from the cationic dyes described in the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & sons, updated on 19 / 04 / 2010.

[0349] Among the azo dyes that can be used according to the invention, cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP 714954 can be mentioned.

[0350] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the direct dye(s) are chosen from among the cationic dyes called "basic dyes".

[0351] The following compounds may be cited among the azo dyes described in the Colour Index International, 3rd edition:

[0352] -Basic Red 22

[0353] -Basic Red 76

[0354] -Basic Yellow 57

[0355] -Basic Brown 16

[0356] -Basic Brown 17

[0357] Among the cationic quinone dyes, those mentioned in the aforementioned Colour Index International are suitable, and among these, the following dyes may be cited, among others:

[0358] -Basic Blue 22

[0359] -Basic Blue 99.

[0360] Suitable azinic dyes include those listed in the Colour Index International, for example the following dyes:

[0361] -Basic Blue 17

[0362] -Basic Red 2.

[0363] Among the cationic triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, the following dyes may be mentioned, in addition to those listed in the Colour Index:

[0364] -Basic Green 1

[0365] -Basic Violet 3

[0366] -Basic Violet 14

[0367] -Basic Blue 7

[0368] -Basic Blue 26.

[0369] Cationic dyes can also be cited in documents US 5888252, EP 1133975, WO 03 / 029359, EP 860636, WO 95 / 01772, WO 95 / 15144, EP 714954. Also cited are those listed in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K. VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academy Press vol 1 to 7, in the "Kirk-Othmer" encyclopedia "Chemical technology", chapter "Dyes and Dye intermediate", 1993, Wiley and sons, and in various chapters of the encyclopedia "ULLMANN's ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial chemistry" 7th edition, Wiley and sons.

[0370] Preferably, cationic direct dyes are chosen from those derived from azo and hydrazono type dyes.

[0371] According to a particular embodiment, the direct dyes are cationic azoic dyes, described in EP 850636, FR 2788433, EP 920856, WO 9948465, FR 2757385, EP 850673, WO 850638, WO 9948433 9744004, FR 2570946, FR 2285851, DE 2538363, FR 2189006, FR 1560664, FR 1540423, FR 1567219, FR 1516943, FR 1212, 228 DE 4137005, WO 0166646, US 5708151, WO 9501772, WO 515144, GB 1195386, US 3524842, US 5879413, EP 1062940, EP 113938, DE 61387, DE 2527638, FR 2275462, GB 1974-27645, Acta Histochem. (1978), 61(1), 48-52 ; Cytology (1968), 10(3), 403-5 ; Zh. Obshch. Khim. (1970), 40(1), 195-202 ; Ann. Say. (Rome) (1975), 65(5-6), 305-14 ; Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society (Taipei) (1998), 45(1), 209-211 ; Rev. Rome. Say. (1988), 33(4), 377-83 ; Text. Nothing. J. (1984), 54(2), 105-7 ; Say. Ind. (Milan) (1974), 56(9), 600-3 ; Khim. Technol. (1979), 22(5), 548-53 ; Word. Monatsh. Chem. (1975), 106(3), 643-8 ; MRL Bull. Nothing. Dev.(1992), 6(2), 21-7; Lihua Jianyan, Huaxue Fence (1993), 29(4), 233-4; Dyes Pigm. (1992), 19(1), 69-79; Dyes Pigm. (1989), 11(3), 163-72. .

[0372] Preferably, the cationic direct dye(s) comprise a quaternary ammonium group, more preferably the cationic charge is endocyclic.

[0373] These cationic radicals are, for example, a cationic radical:

[0374] - with an exocyclic charge (di / tri)(Ci-C8)alkylammonium, or

[0375] - with endocyclic loading such as comprising a heteroaryl group cationic chosen from: acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium, benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bi-pyridinium, bis-tetrazolium, dihydrothiazolium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthooxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phenazinium, phenooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium, pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyrylium, quinolium, tetrazolium, thiadiazolium, thiazolium, thiazolopyridinium, thiazoylimidazolium, thiopyrylium, triazolium or xanthylium.

[0376] Examples include hydrazono cationic dyes of formula (C-II) and (C-III), azo dyes of formula (C-IV) and (C-V), as well as their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers, their salts of organic or mineral acids or bases, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[0377] Hét+-C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Ar, Q (C-II)

[0378] Hét+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q (C-III)

[0379] Het+-N=N-Ar, Q (C-IV)

[0380] Ar+-N=N-Ar”, Q(CV),

[0381] formulas (C-II) to (CV) wherein:

[0382] * Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially charged endocyclic cationic such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, possibly preferentially substituted by at least one (Ci-C8)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0383] * Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with a cationic charge exocyclic preferentially ammonium particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

[0384] * Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, possibly substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (CrC8)alkyl possibly substituted, ii) (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, iii) (di) (Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, v) N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino possibly substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group;

[0385] * Ar” represents a (hetero)aryl group, possibly substituted such that phenyl or pyrazolyl possibly substituted, preferably by one or more (Ci-C8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (Ci-C8)alkoxy or phenyl groups;

[0386] * Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C8)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

[0387] * or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and / or Rb with a substituent Ar together with the atoms that bear them form a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group;

[0388] * Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

[0389] In particular, one may mention the endocyclic cationic azo and hydrazono direct dyes of formula (C-II) to (CV) as defined above; more particularly the cationic direct dyes of formula (C II) to (CV) endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954.

[0390] Preferably, the following direct dyes may be mentioned: -N ' R' R

[0391] formulas (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1) in which:

[0392] - R1 represents an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0393] - R2 and R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; and

[0394] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (Ci -C8)alkyl possibly substituted, (CrC8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(C i-C8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom,

[0395] - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,

[0396] - Q is an anionic counter ion as defined above particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl.

[0397] In particular, colorants of formula (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1) are selected from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives: Basic Yellow 87,

[0398] with Q' an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl.

[0399] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are fluorescent, that is to say they contain at least one fluorescent chromophore as defined above.

[0400] Examples of fluorescent dyes include radicals derived from the dyes acridines, acridones, benzantrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyranes, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro{2-[(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN)methyl]-1H-pyrrolato-kN]bores (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolo-pyrroles, fluorindines, (poly)methines (including cyanines and styryls / hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthanilides, naphthylamine (such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, perilones, perinones, perylenes, polyenes / carotenoids, squaranes, stilbenes, xanthenes.

[0401] Also noteworthy are the fluorescent dyes described in documents EP 1133975, WO 03 / 029359, EP 860636, WO 95 / 01772, WO 95 / 15144, EP 714954 and those listed in K. Venkataraman's "The Chemistry of Synthetic Dye," 1952, Academy Press, vols. 1-7, in the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia "Chemical Technology," chapter "Dyes and Dye Intermediates," 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 7th edition, Wiley and Sons, and in The Handbook — A Guide to Fluorescent Probes and Labeling Technologies, 1st ed. Molecular Probes / Invitrogen - Oregon 2005 distributed via the Internet or in previous printed editions.

[0402] According to one embodiment of the invention, the cationic dye(s) are fluorescent and comprise at least one quaternary ammonium radical such as those of the following (C-VI) formula, as well as their optical, geometric, tautomeric isomers, their salts of organic or mineral acids or bases, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[0403] W+-[C(Rc)=C(Rd)]m-Ar, Q (C-VI),

[0404] formula (C-VI) in which:

[0405] * W+ represents a cationic heterocyclic or heteroaryl group, particularly comprising a quaternary ammonium possibly substituted by one or more (Ci-C8)alkyl groups possibly substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups;

[0406] * Ar representing an aryl group such as phenyl or naphthyl, possibly preferentially substituted by i) one or more halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine; ii) one or more (CrC8)alkyl groups, preferably CrC4 such as methyl; iii) one or more hydroxyl groups; iv) one or more (Ci-C8)alkoxy groups such as methoxy; v) one or more hydroxy(CrC8)alkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl; vi) one or more amino or (di)(Ci-C8)alkylamino groups, preferably with the alkyl portion at C1-C4 optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups such as (di)hydroxyethylamino; vii) by one or more acylamino groups; viii) one or more heterocycloalkyl groups such as pyperazinyl, pyperidinyl or 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl groups such as pyrrolidinyl, pyridinyl and imidazolinyl;

[0407] * m' represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive, particularly m equals 1 or 2; more preferably 1;

[0408] * Rc, Rd, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably at Ci-C4, or else Rc contiguous to W+ and / or Rd contiguous to Ar form with the atoms which bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl, particularly Rc is contiguous to W+ and form a (hetero)cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl;

[0409] * Q is an organic or mineral anionic counterion as defined above.

[0410] Among cationic direct dyes, triarylmethane cationic dyes can also be mentioned.

[0411] Preferably, the triarylmethane cationic direct dye(s) according to the invention are chosen from the following cationic dyes of formulas (C-VII) and (C-VII'):

[0412] as well as its addition salts with an acid or a base, organic or mineral, its geometric, optical, tautomeric isomers, and its mesomeric forms, its solvates such as hydrates,

[0413] preceding formulas (C-VII) and (C-VII') in which:

[0414] * Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxy group; aryl such as phenyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, heteroaryl, heteroaryl(Ci-C4)alkyl, or two groups Ri and R2, and / or R3 and Ri, borne by the same nitrogen atom together form with the nitrogen atom bearing them a heterocycloalkyl group possibly substituted such as morpholino, piparazino, piperidino, preferably Rb R2, R3 and Ri, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group,

[0415] * R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, Ru, Ri2, Ri3, Ri4, Rb and R16, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen, or a group selected from i) hydroxy, ii) thiol, iii) amino, iv) (di)(Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino, v) (di)arylamino such as (di)phenylamino, vi) nitro, vii) acylamino (-NR-C(O)R') in which the R radical is a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group, and the R' radical is a Ci-C2 alkyl radical; viii) carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the R radicals, whether identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group; ix) carboxylic acid or ester, (-OC(O)R') or

[0416] (-C(O)OR'), in which the radical R' is a hydrogen atom, or alkyl in Ci -C4 possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a Ci-C2 alkyl radical; x) alkyl possibly substituted in particular by a hydroxy group; xi) alkylsulfonylamino (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' represents a CrC4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulfonyl ((R)2N-SO2 ) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical possibly bearing at least one hydroxyl group, xiii) (Ci-C4)alkoxy, and xiv) (Ci-C4)alkylthio;

[0417] * Or two radicals carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R5 and R6 and / or R7 and R8, and / or R9 and R10 and / or Rn and Rn and / or Rn and RM and / or R[5 and R[6 together with the carbon atoms that bear them form a condensed 6-membered aryl or heteroaryl ring, preferably benzo, said ring being able to be further optionally substituted, preferably an unsubstituted benzo ring;

[0418] * Q represents an anionic counter ion to achieve electroneutrality, of preference chosen from among halides such as chloride, bromide, and phosphate.

[0419] When the cationic dye includes one or more anionic substituents such as COOR or SO3R with R denoting a hydrogen or a cation, it is understood that there are then more cationic substituents than anionic substituents, so that the overall resulting charge of the triarylmethane structure is cationic.

[0420] According to a preferred embodiment, the triarylmethane colorant(s) of the invention is / are selected from those of formula (C-VII) or (C-VII'), wherein, taken together or separately,

[0421] - Ri, R2, R3 and Re represent a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group such whether methyl or ethyl,

[0422] - R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, Ru, R[2, Rn, Ru, Ri5 and R[6, represent an atom of hydrogen, halogen, such as chlorine, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, an amino group, a (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino group and, preferably, at least one of the groups R9, Rio, Ru or R[2 represents an atom of hydrogen, halogen (Cl), or an amino group, or a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino or (di)(Ci-C4) (alkyl)amino group, preferably in the para position of the phenyl group.

[0423] Preferably, the direct triarylmethane structure dye(s) are chosen from Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), and mixtures thereof.

[0424] The composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of The invention relates to dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances. Anionic direct dyes are defined as any direct dye containing in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R denotes a hydrogen atom, a cation from a metal or amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes can be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, acidic indigoid dyes, and acidic natural dyes.

[0425] According to the invention, the anionic direct dye(s) can be chosen, alone or in mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes of formulas (A-II), (A-II'), (A-III), (A-m'), (A-IV), (A-IV'), (AV), (A-V'), (A-VI), (A-VII), (A-VIII) and (A-IX):

[0426] a) Diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (A-II) or (A-II'):

[0427] formulas (A-II) and (A-II') in which:

[0428] * R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'1O, whether identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:

[0429] - alkyl;

[0430] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0431] - hydroxy, mercapto;

[0432] - nitro, nitroso;

[0433] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X' ' - with R° representing an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0434] - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;

[0435] - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined above;

[0436] - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;

[0437] - R'”-S(O)2-X'- with R”' representing an alkyl group, possibly aryl substituted, X' as defined previously;

[0438] - (di)(alkyl)amino;

[0439] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more selected groups among i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previously;

[0440] - heteroaryl possibly substituted; preferably a group benzothiazolyl;

[0441] - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl,

[0442] - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups, (O)2S(O )-, M+ or phenylamino;

[0443] - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with Rio together form a fused group benzo A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'9 with R'1O together form a fused group benzo B'; with A' and B' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above;

[0444] * W represents a sigma bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a radical divalent i) -NR- with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together with the carbon atom bearing them form a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;

[0445] it being understood that the formulas (A-II) and (A-IT) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0446] A titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (A-II), on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7,

[0447]

[0448] Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Bine 113, Acid Bine 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (A-IF), on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ; b) the azo anionic pyrrazolone dyes of formula (A-III) and (A-IIF):

[0449]

[0450]

[0451]

[0452]

[0453]

[0454]

[0455]

[0456]

[0457] formulas (A-III) and (A-III') in which: * Rn, Rn and Rn, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O), M+ with M+ as defined previously; * Ru represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(O)O group, M+ with M+ as defined previously; * Ris represents a hydrogen atom; * Ri6 represents an oxo group in which case R' 16 is absent, or else R[5 with R[6 together form a double bond; * Rn and Ri8, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from: - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - Ar-OS(O)2- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups; * R19 and R2q together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, possibly substituted;

[0458] * R'16, R'19 and R'2O, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, or hydroxy;

[0459] * R2i represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or alkoxy;

[0460] * Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, are as defined above, Ra preferentially represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents a group

[0461]

[0462] aryl; * Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group; represents a simple bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group;

[0463] it being understood that the formulas (A-III) and (A-III') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O, M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0464] Examples of colorants of formula (A-III) include: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and examples of colorants of formula (A-III') include: Acid Yellow 17;

[0465] c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (A-IV) and (A-IV'):

[0466] formulas (A-IV) and (A-IV) in which:

[0467] * R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, whether identical or different, represent an atom

[0468] hydrogen, halogen, or a group chosen from: - alkyl;

[0469] - hydroxy, mercapto;

[0470] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0471] - aryloxy or arylthio possibly substituted, preferably substituted by a or several groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

[0472] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more selected groups among alkyl and (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

[0473] - (di)(alkyl)amino;

[0474] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino

[0475] - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

[0476] * Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR28R29 group with R28 and R29, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

[0477] - alkyl;

[0478] - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;

[0479] - aryl possibly substituted by one or more particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined previously, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;

[0480] - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl;

[0481] * Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;

[0482] it being understood that the formulas (A-IV) and (A-IV') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0483] As an example of dyes of formula (A-IV), we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT purple No. 2;

[0484] and as an example of colorants of formula (A-IV') we can cite: Acid Black 48;

[0485] d) Nitrated dyes of formula (AV), and (A-V'): &Q:.

[0486]

[0487]

[0488]

[0489]

[0490]

[0491]

[0492]

[0493]

[0494]

[0495]

[0496]

[0497]

[0498]

[0499]

[0500]

[0501]

[0502]

[0503]

[0504]

[0505]

[0506] formulas (AV) and (A-V') in which: * R3o, R3i and R32, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - polyhalogenoalkyl; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° ; X, X' and X” as defined previously; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; in particular R30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom; * Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; * W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a -NH- group; * ALK represents a divalent alkylene group, linear or branched, in C1-C6; particularly ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group; * n equals 1 or 2; * p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive; * q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive; * u is equal to 0 or 1;

[0507] * when n equals 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;

[0508] * when n equals 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical —S(O)m— with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -SO2-;

[0509] * M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion;

[0510] * . . - present or absent represents a benzo group,

[0511] possibly substituted by one or more R30 groupings as defined above;

[0512] it being understood that the formulas (AV) and (A-V') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0513] Examples of colorants of formula (AV) include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of colorants of formula (A-V') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;

[0514] e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (A-VI):

[0515] formula (A-VI) in which:

[0516] * R33, R34, R35 and R36, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, possibly substituted aryl and possibly substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group possibly substituted by an (O)mS(O )-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined above;

[0517] * R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, whether identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:

[0518] -alkyl;

[0519] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0520] - (di)(alkyl)amino;

[0521] - hydroxy, mercapto;

[0522] - nitro, nitroso;

[0523] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0524] - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;

[0525] - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined above;

[0526] - or two contiguous groups Ru with R2 or R42 with R3 or R3 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined above;

[0527] particularly R37 to Ro represent a hydrogen atom, and R4[ to R4, identical or different represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O )-, M+ ; and when R3 with R4 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O)2S(O )- group;

[0528] provided that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I' comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O; preferably sulfonate.

[0529] Examples of colorants of formula (A-VI) include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7; Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50;

[0530] f) xanthene-derived dyes of formula (A-VII): (A-VII)

[0531] formula (A-VII) in which:

[0532] * R45, R6, R47 and R8, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an atom of halogen;

[0533] * R49, R50, R51 and R52, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, halogen, or a group selected from:

[0534] - alkyl;

[0535] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0536] - hydroxy, mercapto;

[0537] - nitro, nitroso;

[0538] - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;

[0539] - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined above;

[0540] particularly R53, R54, R55 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;

[0541] * G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; in particular G represents an oxygen atom;

[0542] * L represents an alkoxide O, M+; a thioalkoxide S, M+ or an NRf group , with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;

[0543] * L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+ RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, aryl possibly substituted; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O )-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously;

[0544] * Q and Q', identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; in particular Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;

[0545] * M+ is as defined previously.

[0546] Examples of colorants of formula (A-VII) include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;

[0547] g) dyes derived from indole of formula (A-VIII):

[0548] formula (A-VIII) in which:

[0549] * R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, whether identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:

[0550] - alkyl;

[0551] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0552] - hydroxy, mercapto;

[0553] - nitro, nitroso;

[0554] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing atony of hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0555] - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;

[0556] - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined above;

[0557] * G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; in particular G represents an oxygen atom;

[0558] * R; and Rh, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group;

[0559] it being understood that the formula (A-VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O , M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;

[0560] As an example of colorants of formula (A-VIII), we can cite: Acid Blue 74.

[0561] h) quinoline-derived dyes of formula (A-IX):

[0562] formula (A-IX) in which:

[0563] * R6i represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0564] * R62, R63, and R64, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion;

[0565] * or else R6i with R62, or R6i with R64, together form a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more (O)2S(O )-, M+ groups with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion;

[0566] it being understood that the formula (A-IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.

[0567] Examples of colorants of formula (A-IX) include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

[0568] More particularly, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more anionic direct dyes selected, alone or in mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:

[0569] [Tables 1] (C.L 45380) Acid Red 87 (A-VII) (C.L 10316) Sel de sodium de l’acide 2,4-dinitro-l-naphtol-7-sulfonique (A-V’ ) (C.L 10383) Acid Orange 3 (A-V) (C.L 13015) Acid Yellow 9 / Food Yellow 2 (A-II) (C.L 14780) / Direct Red 45 / Food Red 13 (A-II) (C.L 13711) Acid Black 52 (A-II) (C.L 13065) Acid Yellow 36 (A-II) (C.L 14700) Sel de sodium de l’acide l-hydroxy-2-(2',4'-xylyl-5-sufonatoazo)-naphtalène-4-sulfonique / Food Red 1 (A-II) (C.L 14720) Acid Red 14 / Food Red 3 / Mordant Blue 79 (A-II) (C. 1. 14805) Sel de sodium de l’acide 4-hydroxy-3-[(2-métoxy-5-. nitrophényl) diaza]-6-(phénylamino)naphtalène-2-sulfonique / Acid Brown 4 ( A-II) (C.L 15510) Acid Orange 7 / Pigment Orange 17 / Solvent Orange 49 (A-II) (C.L 15985) Food Yellow 3 / Pigment Yellow 104 (A-II) (C.L 16185) Acid Red 27 / Food Red 9 (A-II) (C.L 16230) Acid Orange 10 / Food Orange 4 (A-II) (C.L 16250) Acid Red 44 (A-II) (C.L 17200) Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12 (A-II) (C.L 15685) Acid Red 184 (A-II) (C.L 19125) Acid Violet 3 (A-II) (CL 18055) Sodium salt of l-hydroxy-2-(4'-acetamidophenylazo)-8-acetamido-naphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid / Acid Violet 7 / Food Red 11 (A-II) (CL 18130) Acid Red 135 (A-II) (CL 19130) Acid Yellow 27(A-III) (CL 19140) Acid Yellow 23 / Food Yellow 4 (A-III) . (CL 20170) 4'-(sulfonato-2,4'-dimethyl)-bis-(2,6-phenylazo)-1,3-dihydroxybenzene / Acid Orange 24 (A-II) (Cl 20470) Sodium salt of l-amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-naphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid / Acid Black 1 (A-II) (Cl 23266) (4-((4-methylphenyl)sulfonyloxy)-phenylazo)2,2'-dimethyl-4-((2-hydroxy-5,8-disulfonato)naphtylazo)biphenyl / Acid Red 111 (A-II') (Cl 27755) Food Black 2 (A-II) (Cl 25440) l-(4'-sulfonatophenylazo)-4-((2"-hydroxy-3"-acetylamino-6",8"-disulfonato)naphtylazo)-6-sulfonatonaphthalene (tetrasodium salt) / Food Black 1 (A-II) (Cl 42090) Acid Blue 9 (A-VI) (Cl 60730) Acid Violet 43 (A-IV) (Cl 61570) Acid Green 25 (A-IV) (Cl 62045) Sodium salt of l-amino-4-cyclohexylamino-9,10-anthraquinone 2-sulfonic acid / Acid Blue 62 (A-IV) (Cl 62105) Acid Blue 78 (A-IV) (Cl14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3((2-methoxyphenyl)-azo)-1-naphthalene sulfonic acid / Acid Red 4 (A-II) 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid (V') 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid (A-V') 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid (A-V') (Cl 42640) Acid Violet 49 (A-VI) (Cl 42080) Acid Blue 7 (A-VI) (Cl 58005) Sodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy-3-sulfo-anthraquinone / Mordant Red 3 (A-IV) (Cl 62055) Sodium salt of acid l-amino-9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-4-(phenylamino) 2-anthracene sulfonic acid / Acid Blue 25 (A-IV) (Cl 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)-azo)-l-naphthalene sulfonic acid / Acid Red 4 (A-II) .

[0570] Most of these dyes are described in particular in the Color Index published by The Society of Dyers and Colorists, PO Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD1 2JBN England.

[0571] The anionic colorants most particularly preferred are the colorants designated in the Color Index under the code CI 58005 (monosodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone-3-sulfonic acid), CI 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-l-anthracenyl)-amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), CI 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-l-naphthalenyl)-azo]-benzenesulfonic acid), CI 15985 (disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)-azo]-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid), CI 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-2,7-naphthalene disulfonic acid), CI 20470 (disodium salt of l-amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalene disulfonic acid), CI 42090 (disodium salt of N-ethyl-N-[4-[[4-[ethyl[3-sulfophenyl]-methyl]-amino]-phenyl](2-sulfophenyl)-methylene]-2,5-cyclohexadien-l-ylidene]-3-sulfobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, internal salt), CI61570 (disodium salt of 2,2'-[(9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-l,4-anthracenediyl)-diimino]-bis-[5-methyl]-benzenesulfonic acid. .

[0572] Compounds corresponding to the mesomeric, tautomeric forms of (A-II) to (A-IX) structures can also be used.

[0573] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of hennotannic acid, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orcein. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, may also be used.

[0574] More preferably, the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, aryl nitrate direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinones, and mixtures thereof.

[0575] More preferably, direct dyes are chosen from among ionic direct dyes, better from among cationic direct dyes.

[0576] Even more preferably, cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinones, and mixtures thereof.

[0577] Preferably, the total content of direct colorant(s) in the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.0001% to 20% by weight; more preferably from 0.0005% to 15% by weight; more preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight; better from 0.005% to 5% by weight; even better from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0578] Preferably, the total content of cationic direct colorant(s) in the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention is in the range of 0.0001% to 20% by weight; more preferably from 0.0005% to 15% by weight; more preferably still from 0.001% to 10% by weight; better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight; even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Non-silicone fats

[0579] Advantageously, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-siliconized fat known as CGB.

[0580] Preferably, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention further comprises at least one non-siliconized fat, referred to as CGB.

[0581] The above description of the CGA fats included in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is repeated herein in its entirety (with the exception of any silicone-coated CGA fats) to describe the non-siliconized CGB fats included in the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention.

[0582] In other words, the non-siliconized CGB fat(s) can be chosen from among the non-siliconized CGA fats as described above.

[0583] According to the invention, non-siliconized CGB fats are different from fatty acids.

[0584] For the purposes of this invention, "non-siliconized fat" means a fat other than silicone.

[0585] By "silicone" is meant all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.

[0586] Advantageously, the non-siliconized fat(s) referred to as CGB(s) are chosen from among non-siliconized solid fats, non-siliconized liquid fats, and mixtures thereof, preferably from among non-siliconized solid fats, more preferably from among solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9 fatty alcohols -C26, and their mixtures, more preferably among solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, even better among cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0587] Preferably, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid non-siliconized fats, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0588] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the non-siliconized fat(s) referred to as CGB ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0589] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the non-siliconized fat(s) referred to as CGB(s) other than fatty acids ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0590] In a particular embodiment, when the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid non-siliconized fats, the total content of the solid non-siliconized fat(s) preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0591] According to this particular embodiment, when the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, the total content of the solid fatty alcohol(s) comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Cationic polysaccharides

[0592] Advantageously, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one cationic polysaccharide called PCB.

[0593] Preferably, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide called PCB.

[0594] The above description of the cationic polysaccharides referred to as PCAs included in the composition (A) implemented in the process according to the invention is repeated herein in its entirety to describe the so-called cationic polysaccharides PCB included in the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention.

[0595] In other words, the cationic PCB polysaccharide(s) can be chosen from among the cationic PCA polysaccharides as described above.

[0596] Preferably, the cationic PCB polysaccharides that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.

[0597] Preferably, cationic PCB polysaccharides are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, more preferably from cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0598] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) PCB(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0599] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the PCB cationic guar gum(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Non-cationic polysaccharides

[0600] Advantageously, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-cationic polysaccharide, preferably chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0601] Preferably, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one non-cationic polysaccharide, preferably chosen from among non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0602] Non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0603] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Physical treatment may be indicated by temperature; and chemical treatment may be indicated by esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions, insofar as these treatments lead to non-ionic polymers.

[0604] Examples of galactomannans that could be used include non-ionic guar gums, which can be modified by groups (poly)hydroxylakyl in Ci-C6, including the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0605] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0606] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0607] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0608] The starch molecules usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are, for example, selected from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0609] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0610] Non-ionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers without a Cio-C3O fatty chain in their structure.

[0611] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, is understood any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues united by [3-1,4] bonds; cellulosic polymers can be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses.

[0612] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0613] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g. Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0614] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by (poly)hydroxylakyl CrC 6 groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0615] Preferably, non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from cellulose ethers such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0616] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-cationic polysaccharides are chosen from among the non-ionic polysaccharides, more preferably from cellulose ethers, such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0617] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the non-cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0618] Preferably, when present, the total content of the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0619] Preferably, when present, the total content of the nonionic cellulose ether(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Cationic surfactants T CB

[0620] Advantageously, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one cationic surfactant called TCB.

[0621] Preferably, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant called TCB.

[0622] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCB are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0623] The so-called cationic surfactant(s) TCB may be chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated and their mixtures.

[0624] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0625] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0626] Among the fatty amines, we can mention stearylamine, stearyldimethylamine, distearylamine.

[0627] Fatty amines can also be cited as examples of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be selected from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0628] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0629] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quantified.

[0630] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0631] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from the (Ci0-C30)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkyl (di)(Ci-C6)alkyl amines and their salts, better from the (C14-C26)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkyl (di)(Ci-C4)alkyl amines and their salts, preferably from the (Ci6-C24)alkylamido(C2-C4)alkyl (di)(Ci-C2)alkyl amines and their salts; more preferably still from the (Ci8-C22)alkylamido(C2-C4)alkyl (di)(CrC2)alkyl amine and their salts.

[0632] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, we can mention the amidoamines of the following formula (A): RCONHR”N(R')2 (A)

[0633] in which:

[0634] - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 72 of 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23 linear or branched;

[0635] - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better 3 carbon atoms; and

[0636] - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0637] Examples of fatty amidoamines that may be used include, alone or in mixtures: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their salts.

[0638] Preferably, fatty amidoamines are selected from, alone or in mixtures, as well as their salts,

[0639] - brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula RC(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2;

[0640] wherein RC(O) is a fatty acid derived from brassica campestris seed oil (rapeseed oil), with a majority of behenyl group (C22);

[0641] - stearamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH3-(CH2)i6-C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3- N(CH3)2;

[0642] - behenamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH3-(CH2)2o-C(0)-N(H)-(CH2)3- N(CH3)2;

[0643] - oleamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0644] The cationic surfactant(s) TCB may be selected from quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0645] Quaternary ammonium salts may be cited in particular, for example:

[0646] - those corresponding to the following general formula (X): r -. + (X), R,... R,. X" R / K;

[0647] wherein the R8 to Ru groups, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Rn groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens.

[0648] The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from the alkyl groups in Ci-C30, alkoxy groups in CrC3o, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide groups in CrC3o, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl groups in CrC3o, X is an anion chosen from the group of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate.

[0649] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given on the one hand to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or to stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL®70 by the company VAN DYK;

[0650] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of The following formula (XI):

[0651] wherein R represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R[4] represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, X is a chosen anion in the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.

[0652] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 denotes a methyl group, Ri5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO;

[0653] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XII) next: -1 2- R—N—N—R 2X L - r

[0654] wherein Ri6 designates an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, Rn is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+ group. (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Rna, Risa, Ris, Ri9, R2q and R2B, identical or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(CrC4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0655] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75);

[0656] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such that, for example, those of the following formula (XIII): (xiii), h L «24—C--(O—H--{CFVOHU—OI —R,. y I x r22

[0657] wherein: R22 is selected from Ci-C6 alkyl groups and CrC6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is selected from: the -C(O)R26 group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, the hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from: the -C(O)R28 group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, the atom of hydrogen; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 designates R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 designates R29.

[0658] The R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

[0659] Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0660] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0661] When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0662] When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0663] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from the Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0664] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0665] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0666] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0667] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or Iodide, an alkyl(CrC4)sulfate, alkyl(CrC4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used.

[0668] Anion X is more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.

[0669] In particular, ammonium salts of formula (XIII) may be used in composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention, wherein: R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is selected from: the -C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C[4-C22] hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from: the -C(O)R28 group, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are selected among C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably among C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0670] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0671] Examples of compounds of formula (XIII) include salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0672] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol. Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0673] The composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0674] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0675] One can also use thylammonium behenoylhydroxypropyltrime chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

[0676] Other examples include distearoylethylhydroxyeth ylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.

[0677] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- salts are preferred methylammonium, in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.

[0678] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0679] Advantageously, the cationic surfactant(s) TCB are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, preferably from those corresponding to the general formula (X), those corresponding to the general formula (XIII), fatty amines, preferably those chosen from amidoamines of formula (A) and their mixtures.

[0680] According to a preferred embodiment, the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from those corresponding to the general formula (X), those corresponding to the general formula (XIII) and mixtures thereof.

[0681] Preferably, quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (X) are chosen from tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides and mixtures thereof.

[0682] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (XIII) may be distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0683] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the quaternary ammonium salts are selected from tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts, in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0684] Preferably, the amidoamines of formula (A) are selected from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0685] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Silicones

[0686] Advantageously, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one silicone, which may be chosen from non-amine silicones, amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0687] Preferably, the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one silicone which can be selected from non-amine silicones, amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0688] The silicone(s) are preferably chosen from among the amino silicones.

[0689] The composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention can therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which can be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile.

[0690] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0691] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.

[0692] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as: - Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Examples include products marketed under the names "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, and "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA. - Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with the following chemical structure: One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE. - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0693] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane. Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0694] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0695] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0696] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethyleney and / or polyoxypropylene groups possibly containing C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200; - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function; - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in US patent A-4957732. - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as those described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0697] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, the principal examples of which are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). The following commercial products are examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes: - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the RHODIA company; - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0698] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.

[0699] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0700] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a chain-end hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by DOW CORNING. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA; - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0701] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;

[0702] - BAYER's PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 products and PH1000; - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0703] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are the trimethylsiloxanes with terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0704] The composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0705] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0706] Amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0707] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0708] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I): in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0709] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (II): R'aG3.a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2.b)mO-SiG3.a-R'a(II) in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl group in CrC8, for example methyl or alkoxy group in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0710] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quaternized, chosen from the following groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C2O alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. Preferably, amino silicones of formula (II) may be chosen from: (i) "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III):

[0711] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10. (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Cr C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0712] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0713] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V): in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0714] Commercial products comprising structural silicones (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure differs from the (IV) or (V) formulations. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (XIV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0715] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may include one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by WACKER can be used.

[0716] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical, having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms, preferably linear. The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amine-based silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, and more specifically from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. An example of a silicone meeting this specification is DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.

[0717] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol, and more specifically from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, Dow Corning's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.

[0718] c) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII): in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, specifically from 2 to 8; and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0719] d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX)

[0720] (IX) in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, an -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of an organic acid, in particular acetate; and - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned. Silicones falling into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3270, ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474. e) Amino silicones of formula (X): in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.

[0721] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group. These silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more specifically from 10 to 5000; - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon divalent radical, possibly containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-,

[0722] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mole percent of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly between 70 and 85 mole percent.

[0723] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0724] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol.

[0725] Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive. (g) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): CH, | CH CH. R' HAS HH (XI) in which: - R, R' and R”, whether identical or different, denote an alkyl group in C1-C4 or a hydroxyl group, - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500000. CH, G-to-R2 CH, (XII) in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100; - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0726] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, Ri and R2, whether identical or different, are selected from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0727] Preferably, in silicone of formula (XII), there is:

[0728] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0729] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0730] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0731] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. A preferred silicone formulation (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. A notable example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0732] h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): ML S x / F* \ HM " S s MM ■— <>?— 8s ss; (XiV) XI ol / b ml .ml ......Si-AO-Si to— (100 In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu. In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000. As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest. In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000. Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0733] ​​The composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: (XVHQ ] / \ J ] ?....... \ ] 1 HO—z X—OH i ï________ __ in which: - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5; -R”', identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH; - R' is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R' ' is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably, the identical or different R's are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, Cn, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the identical or different Rs are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular in Ci3, Ci4, Ci5, alone or in mixture, and better represent a mixture of Cn, CM and Ci5. Preferably, the R”'s are identical. Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical. Preferably, R'' is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0734] Advantageously, when the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one silicone selected from among the amino silicones, said amino silicone is preferably selected from the silicones of formula (II), more preferably from the silicones of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof.

[0735] When the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one silicone, the total content of the silicone(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0736] When the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone, the total content of the amino silicone(s) will preferably be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0737] The composition (B) according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the water content more preferably ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 94% by weight, better from 75% to 93% by weight, better still from 80% to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0738] When composition (B) is aqueous, the pH can vary from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 5.

[0739] The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents usually used, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0740] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0741] Among the alkalizing agents, alkaline agents as described above may be used. Additives

[0742] The composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used, other than the compounds as described above.

[0743] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention, we can mention anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof other than the polysaccharides described above, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives.

[0744] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition (B) implemented in the process according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0745] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0746] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (B), preferably cosmetic, comprises (i) at least one direct dye; (ii) optionally at least one non-siliconized fat known as CGB; (iii) optionally at least one cationic polysaccharide called PCB; (iv) optionally at least one non-cationic polysaccharide; (v) optionally at least one cationic surfactant called TCB; and (vi) optionally at least one silicone.

[0747] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (B), preferably cosmetic, comprises (i) at least one direct dye; (ii) at least one non-siliconized fat known as CGB, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol; (iii) at least one cationic polysaccharide called PCB, preferably selected from cationic galactomannan gums, more preferably from cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof; (iv) at least one non-cationic polysaccharide, preferably selected from non-ionic polysaccharides, more preferably from cellulose ethers, such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from hydroxyethylcellulose; (v) at least one cationic surfactant known as TCB, preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and (vi) at least one silicone, preferably chosen from among the amine silicones. The process#:

[0748] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for coloring keratin fibers and more preferably a process for directly coloring keratin fibers.

[0749] According to one embodiment, step a) is carried out before step b).

[0750] According to another embodiment, step b) is carried out before step a).

[0751] Preferably, step a) is carried out before step b).

[0752] Preferably, the time between the implementation of step a) and the implementation of step b) is less than or equal to 24 hours, more preferably within the range of 2 seconds to 12 hours, more preferably still within 30 seconds to 10 hours, better still within 1 minute to 8 hours, better still within 5 minutes to 2 hours.

[0753] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes at least one step a') of rinsing the keratin fibers with water.

[0754] Preferably, step a') of rinsing the keratin fibers with water is carried out between step a) of applying composition (A) and step b) of applying composition (B).

[0755] More preferably, the process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises at least the following steps in order: a) an application step on the keratin fibers of a composition (A) as described above, then a') a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water, then b) an application step on the keratin fibers of a composition (B) as described above, then c) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water.

[0756] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the treatment process according to the invention further comprises, prior to the implementation of said step a), a step o) of preparation of the composition (A) as described above.

[0757] Said step o) of preparing composition (A) consists of extemporaneous mixing: - of a composition (Al) comprising: (i') at least one alkali agent as defined above, (ii') at least one cationic TCA surfactant as defined above, (iii') at least one CGA fat as defined above, and (iv') possibly at least one optional ingredient such as those described for composition (A) above, said composition (Al) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with - a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent such as those described above.

[0758] Said composition (Al) corresponds to composition (A) as described above, except that it is devoid of chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0759] Composition (A) of the process according to the invention is preferably obtained from mixing composition (Al) described above with a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0760] Said oxidizing composition (O) preferably comprises water.

[0761] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (O) is within the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0762] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0763] Preferably, according to this preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixing of said composition (Al) with the oxidizing composition (O) is carried out in a weight ratio (Al): (O) in the range of 1:3 to 1:1; more preferably from 1:2 to 1:1.

[0764] According to this preferred embodiment of the invention, step o) of preparing composition (A) is advantageously carried out at the time of use, just before applying composition (A) to the keratin fibers.

[0765] More preferably, the process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises at least the following steps in order: o) a step of preparing the composition (A), as described previously, then a) an application step on the keratin fibers of composition (A) as described previously, then a') optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water, then b) a step of applying a composition (B) as described above to the keratin fibers, then c) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water.

[0766] Better still, the process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, includes at least the following steps in order: o) a step of preparing the composition (A), as described previously, then a) an application step on the keratin fibers of composition (A) as described previously, then a') a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water, then b) an application step on the keratin fibers of a composition (B) as described above, then c) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water.

[0767] The process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention may optionally include additional steps, for example a step including a setting time after application and / or a drying step.

[0768] The compositions of the process according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably dry, as well as to all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0769] The application of the compositions of the process according to the invention on the keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a paintbrush, by hand or by fingers.

[0770] The treatment process according to the invention is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15 and 30°C).

[0771] The process of the invention may in particular include a step of washing the keratin fibers before applying the compositions described above. It may also include a washing step after the application of the compositions described above.

[0772] For the purposes of this invention, "keratin fiber washing step" means a step of applying shampoo to the keratin fibers.

[0773] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists of applying an effective quantity of the compositions described above to the keratin fibers, optionally kneading the fibers, optionally leaving the compositions to rest on the fibers, and optionally rinsing.

[0774] The exposure time of the compositions described above on keratin fibers can be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 45 minutes.

[0775] A possible drying step of the keratin fibers can be implemented after the application steps of the compositions described above.

[0776] Preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of the compositions implemented in the process according to the invention, and more particularly after any water rinsing steps. Device

[0777] The invention also relates to a multi-compartment dyeing device or "kit".

[0778] Preferably, the multi-compartment device according to the invention comprises: - at least a first compartment containing a composition (Al) as defined above; and - at least one second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; and - at least one third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.

[0779] The composition (Al) and the oxidizing composition (O) as described above are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, if necessary, by suitable means of application, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

[0780] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0781] The Al and O compositions as described in Tables 2 and 3 below were prepared. The quantities are expressed as a percentage of active material (%g MA).

[0782] [Tables2] Composition: Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.50, Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 0.90, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.50, Cetyl esters 4.00, Sunflower oil 2.00, Glyceryl stearate 2.00, Cetearyl alcohol 16.10, Ammonium hydroxide 4.57, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.20, Fragrance q.s., Antioxidants, reducing agents q.s., Water q.s. 100

[0783] [Tables3] Composition: Hydrogen peroxide 5.50, Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.32, Cetearyl alcohol 2.40, Citric acid 0.30, Sodium benzoate 0.30, Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20, Etidronic acid 0.09, Water q.s. 100

[0784] A composition (A) was prepared by mixing in a bowl and with a brush, the composition (Al) (table 2) with the oxidizing composition (O) (table 3) according to the mass weight ratio Composition (Al) / Composition (O) of 1:1.5.

[0785] In addition, the colour composition (B) as described below in Table 4 was prepared, the quantities are expressed as a percentage of active material (%g MA).

[0786] [Tables4] Composition B Cetearyl alcohol 3.75 Cetyl alcohol 1.00 Basic red 51 0.035 HC Blue No 15 0.0012 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.2 Guar chloride hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.1 Behentrimonium chloride 2.0 Amodimethicone 1.1 Preservatives qs Water qsp 100

[0787] Initially, composition (A), obtained by mixing composition (Al) with composition (O), is applied to strands of hair that are 90% natural white, at a ratio of 5g of mixture to 1g of hair.

[0788] After 45 minutes of application of composition (A) at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is washed with shampoo and then rinsed with water. The hair is then dried in an oven (60°C).

[0789] Then, in a second step, composition (B) is applied to the strands of hair previously treated with composition (A), at a rate of 5g of mixture for 1g of hair.

[0790] After 20 minutes of application of composition (B) at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed with water.

[0791] The coloring of hair treated with the process according to the invention is particularly non-selective, with good color rise, good intensity, chromaticity and tenacity.

[0792] The treatment process according to the invention results in good scalp comfort during application. The compositions used in the treatment process according to the invention have a pleasant odor, as well as a firm yet melting texture upon application, allowing for homogeneous deposition on the keratin fibers (no dripping).

[0793] Hair treated with the process according to the invention is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more manageable.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) an application step on the keratin fibers of a composition (A) comprising: (i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, (ii) at least one alkali agent, (iii) at least one cationic surfactant called TCA, and (iv) at least one fatty substance called CGA, and b) an application step on the keratin fibers of a composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye.

2. A process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidizing agent(s) are selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from hydrogen peroxide.

3. A process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) is in the range of 0.1% to 20%, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 7.5% by weight, better 1.5% to 7.1% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).

4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and always better from ammonium hydroxide.

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkali agent(s) is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by weight, plus preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

6. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) referred to as TCA are selected from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, composition (A) comprises at least two TCA cationic surfactants selected from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still, composition (A) comprises, as TCA cationic surfactants, at least one first fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one second quaternary ester cationic surfactant.

7. The method according to claim 6, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type are selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; better among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; and always better brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

8. A process according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are selected from the following cationic surfactants of formula (A): » 3 (A) A. .xx A rX XX ''X '"XX' \ in which: - R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C4o hydrocarbon group, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are selected from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C6 alkyl group, and - X represents an anion.

9. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) referred to as TCA is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

10. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the CGA fat(s) are selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, more preferably from vegetable oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of so-called CGA fat(s) is in the range of 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, better 3% to 15% by weight, better still 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

12. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) further comprises at least one cationic polymer; preferably selected from cationic polysaccharides known as PCAs; more preferably from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.

13. A process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of cationic polymer(s) is in the range of 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

14. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (A) is devoid of oxidation dye precursor.

15. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the direct dye(s) in composition (B) are selected from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, aryl nitrate direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

16. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of direct colorant(s) is in the range of 0.0001% to 20% by weight; more preferably from 0.0005% to 15% by weight; more preferably still from 0.001% to 10% by weight; better from 0.005% to 5% by weight; even better from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

17. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) further comprises at least one non-siliconized fat, referred to as CGB; preferably selected from solid non-siliconized fats, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; even better from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step a) is carried out before step b).

19. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a step o) of preparing the composition (A) consisting of extemporaneous mixing of: - a composition (A1) comprising: (i') at least one alkaline agent as defined in claim 1 or 4, (ii') at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined in any one of claims 1 and 6 to 8, and (iii') at least one fat-based CGA as defined in any one of claims 1 or 10, said composition (A1) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with - a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined in claim 1 or 2; said step o) being carried out before step a).

20. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one step a') of rinsing the keratin fibers with water; more preferably said step a') of rinsing with water is carried out between step a) and step b).

21. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the time between the implementation of step a) and the implementation of step b) is less than or equal to 24 hours, preferably within the range of 2 seconds to 12 hours, more preferably from 30 seconds to 10 hours, plus preferably from 1 minute to 8 hours, better from 5 minutes to 2 hours.

22. A multi-compartment device comprising: - at least a first compartment containing a composition (A1) comprising: (i') at least one alkaline agent as defined in claim 1 or 4, (ii') at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined in any one of claims 1 and 6 to 8, and (iii') at least one fat-based CGA as defined in any one of claims 1 or 10, said composition (A1) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; and - at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 15 to 17; and - at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined in claim 1 or 2.