Cosmetic composition comprising specific cationic guars and carboxylic anionic surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

The combination of cationic guars and anionic surfactants in a cosmetic composition addresses the inadequacies of existing hair care products by enhancing shine, smoothness, and manageability, while maintaining a clear appearance and reducing weightiness.

FR3170306A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-06-26LOREAL SA

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2024-12-23
Publication Date
2026-06-26
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, comprising specific cationic guar gums and anionic surfactants selected from polyoxyalkylated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.
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Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising specific cationic guars and carboxylic anionic surfactants, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair cleansing, comprising particular anionic surfactants and particular cationic polymers, as well as a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, implementing said composition.

[0002] Hair is sensitive to many types of aggression and can be weakened and damaged to varying degrees by the external environment, in particular by the action of atmospheric agents such as light, air pollution and weathering, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0003] The properties of damaged hair are then degraded and various manifestations of damage can be observed, such as difficulties in detangling and styling the hair, lack of softness of the hair, hair which can eventually become dry, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the tips.

[0004] To remedy these drawbacks, and in particular to repair damaged hair, it is common practice to use hair cosmetic compositions designed to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. Current compositions generally aim to reduce surface defects of the hair, notably through the deposition of conditioning agents, such as silicones or cationic polymers. The effects obtained generally rely on the use of high levels of silicones, which can, however, have the disadvantage of weighing down the hair or causing it to lose its lightness.

[0005] Furthermore, although there are numerous hair repair formulas, they generally do not provide hair with entirely satisfactory and lasting cosmetic properties, particularly when the hair is very fragile, highly sensitized, or severely damaged. Thus, it has been observed that for the most damaged hair, the level of care may prove insufficient; in particular, the smoothness of the hair and its ease of detangling can still be improved.

[0006] The invention therefore aims to provide a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, specifically for cleansing and / or conditioning hair, which solves the problems mentioned above, and in particular will provide a high level of care and conditioning, especially for the most damaged hair.

[0007] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair, comprising:

[0008] - one or more cationic guars with INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE and having a dynamic viscosity between 500 and 1500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and

[0009] - one or more anionic surfactants selected from alkyl(amido)ether acids polyoxyalkylated carboxylic acids and their salts.

[0010] It has been observed that hair treated with the compositions according to the invention exhibits good cosmetic properties: it is particularly shiny, light, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more manageable.

[0011] The compositions according to the invention also have good performance qualities: they allow for the rapid generation of abundant, rich, creamy and pleasant-to-the-touch foam.

[0012] Furthermore, it has been observed that it is possible to obtain compositions presenting a new visual aspect, namely compositions that are particularly clear, or even transparent.

[0013] Thus, the compositions according to the invention can advantageously be clear, even transparent; in particular, they can have a turbidity value less than or equal to 50 NTU, preferably less than or equal to 20 NTU, even better less than or equal to 10 NTU, preferably less than or equal to 5 NTU. The turbidity can be measured at 25°C, 1 atm, using a HACH Model 2100 P turbidimeter.

[0014] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0015] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included. Cationic guar

[0016] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more particular cationic guars as defined below.

[0017] This or these cationic guars are hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chlorides; they have the INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

[0018] They also exhibit a dynamic viscosity between 500 and 1500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0019] Dynamic viscosity can in particular be measured using a rheometer such as the Brookfield RVT viscometer, with a spindle 2, at a rotation speed of 20 revolutions / min, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and at a concentration of 1% by weight in water.

[0020] By way of example, a cationic guar having a dynamic viscosity between 500 and 1500 mPa.s (at 25°C and atmospheric pressure), usable in the composition according to the invention, is that referenced under the number CAS 65497-29-2; one can in particular mention the commercial product available under the name Natemal® Care Clear SGI from the company SYENSQO.

[0021] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the said cationic guar(s), of INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1500 mPa.s, in a total content of 0.01 to 8% by weight, better of 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better of 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably of 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactants

[0022] The composition according to the invention also includes one or more anionic surfactants selected from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts.

[0023] An anionic surfactant is understood to be a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0024] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0025] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

[0026] Preferably, polyoxyalkylened alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylened alkyl (C6-C24) amido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, and their salts and mixtures are used.

[0027] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0028] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0029] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0030] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (A):

[0031] R1-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COO A

[0032] in which:

[0033] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;

[0034] - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 50, in particular 2 to 24, preferably 2 to 10,

[0035] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine.

[0036] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those conforming to formula (A) above, in which:

[0037] - Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical in C8-C22, in particular in C8-C20, better in C10-C18, or even in C12-C16, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical;

[0038] - A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0039] - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0040] Preferably, polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, particularly from those corresponding to the formula (A) above in which Ri designates a C12-C14 alkyl radical, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, advantageously a C12-C14 alkyl radical, in particular lauryl or cocoyl; A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

[0041] In particular, we can mention the products sold by the company KAO under the following names:

[0042] AKYPO® NP 70 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

[0043] AKYPO® NP 40 (Ri=nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0044] AKYPO®OP 40 (R1=octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0045] AKYPO® OP 80 (Ri=octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

[0046] AKYPO® OP 190 (R1=octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

[0047] AKYPO® RLM 38 (R1=alkyl en Ci2-Ci4, n=4, A=H)

[0048] AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R1= alkyl en C12-C14, n=4, A=Na)

[0049] AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R1= alkyl en C12-C14, n=4.5, A=H)

[0050] AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (Ri= alkyl en Ci2-Ci4, n=4.5, A=Na)

[0051] AKYPO® RLM 100 (R1= alkyl en C12-C14, n=10, A=H)

[0052] AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (Ri= alkyl en Ci2-Ci4, n=10, A=Na)

[0053] AKYPO® RLM 130 (R1= alkyl en C12-C14, n=13, A=H)

[0054] AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R1= alkyl en C12-C14, n=16, A=Na),

[0055] or by the company SANDOZ as follows:

[0056] SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R1= alkyl en Cn, n=6, A=H)

[0057] SANDOPAN DTC (R1= alkyl at C13, n=6, A=Na)

[0058] SANDOPAN LS 24 (R1= alkyl en Ci2-Ci4, n=12, A=Na)

[0059] SANDOPAN HA 36 (R1= alkyl at C13, n=18, A=H),

[0060] and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:

[0061] AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO® RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.

[0062] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the anionic surfactant(s) selected from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts in a total quantity ranging from 0.02 to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the anionic surfactant(s) selected from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts corresponding to formula (A) above, in a total quantity ranging from 0.02 to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the anionic surfactant(s) selected from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)ether carboxylic acids and their salts in a total amount ranging from 0.02 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional anionic surfactants

[0065] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additional anionic surfactants, other than the polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts above.

[0066] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate (or sulfated) anionic surfactants.

[0067] Anionic surfactants, as is known per se, may comprise sulfate, sulfonate, and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or in mixtures. For the purposes of the present invention, an anionic sulfate surfactant is understood to be an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), but not comprising a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0068] The additional anionic sulfate surfactants may be selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamido ethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10, ethylene oxide motifs.

[0069] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols.

[0070] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0071] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0072] Preferably, the additional anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

[0073] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0074] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0075] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0076] Preferably, the additional anionic sulfate surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, and their salts, especially chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts; even better from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C30, better C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16; advantageously C10-C20, or even C10-C16; and especially alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0077] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants, other than the polyoxyalkylated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts mentioned above. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may, of course, be used.

[0078] It is understood in this description that:

[0079] - Anionic carboxylate (or carboxylic) surfactants include at minus one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), and may possibly further include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0080] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may possibly include one or more additional sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function.

[0081] The additional carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO). They may be chosen in particular from among acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylalaninates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0082] Preferably, the additional carboxylic anionic surfactants may be selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0083] - acylglutamates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o, such as stearoylglutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0084] - acylalaninates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o, such as cocoyl alaninates, and in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate;

[0085] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, cocoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

[0086] - acyllactylates, particularly in the C12-C28 or even C14-C24 range, such as behenoyllactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0087] - C6-C24 acylglycinates; or even C2-C20 acylglycinates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glycinate;

[0088] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0089] The additional anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used shall comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3). They may be selected from alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, (alpha)olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.Preferably, the additional anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixture, the (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably the (C12-C20)acylisethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate; especially in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

[0090] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, even better from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Advantageously, when present, the total content of additional anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, even better from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Advantageously, when present, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, even better from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0093] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0094] An amphoteric surfactant is defined as a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The amphoteric surfactant(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are non-siliconized.

[0095] In particular, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines may be cited alone or in mixtures.

[0096] They can also be selected from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0097] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we can also mention the compounds with the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C):

[0098] (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+,

[0099] in which:

[0100] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0101] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0102] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0103] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0104] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cr C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0105] (B) Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')

[0106] in which:

[0107] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0108] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0109] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0110] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0111] - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0112] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0113] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0114] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0115] (C) Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re)

[0116] in which:

[0117] - Y'' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0118] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in C1 to C4;

[0119] - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0120] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0121] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0122] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, in particular selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (C) such as salts, in particular sodium salts, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0123] Preferably, amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Preferably, the composition may comprise the amphoteric surfactant(s) in a total quantity ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, better from 2 to 10% by weight, even better from 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] Better still, the composition may include the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, better from 2 to 10% by weight, even better from 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise:

[0127] - one or more anionic surfactants selected from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly in C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, particularly in C12-C20 comprising preferably from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and mixtures thereof, and

[0128] - one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. Non-ionic surfactants

[0129] Optionally, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0130] Said non-ionic surfactants may be selected from:

[0131] - alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Cl-C2O)phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups ranging from 1 to 100, the number of glycerol groups ranging from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols having at least one alkyl chain in C8 to C40, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;

[0132] - ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols;

[0133] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 oxide units ethylene, polyglycerol fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4;

[0134] - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (or oxyethylenated sorbitan ester) preferably having 2 to 40 ethylene oxide motifs,

[0135] - fatty acid esters of sucrose,

[0136] - polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylated, having 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils,

[0137] - N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives,

[0138] - amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or oxides of N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine.

[0139] - non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

[0140] Nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants can be represented by the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0141] in which:

[0142] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0143] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0144] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0145] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0146] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0147] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants have the formula described above, in which:

[0148] - RI designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0149] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0150] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0151] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0152] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0153] The glucosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16-1,4-alkyl(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0154] The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that can be used in the context of the invention include, in particular, oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C8-C30 fatty acids and sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units. Preferably, oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C12-C24 fatty acids and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, are used.

[0155] Such compounds are also known as polysorbates. They are marketed, among other places, under the name TWEEN by the company UNIQEMA.

[0156] Examples include sorbitan oxyethylene monolaurate with 4 OE, for example marketed under the name TWEEN 21, sorbitan oxyethylene monolaurate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 20, sorbitan oxyethylene monopalmitate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 40, sorbitan oxyethylene monostearate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 60, sorbitan oxyethylene monostearate with 4 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 61, sorbitan oxyethylene tristearate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 65, sorbitan oxyethylene monooleate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 80, 5 OE sorbitan oxyethylene mono-oleate e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 81, 20 OE sorbitan oxyethylene tri-oleate e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 85.

[0157] In the present disclosure, and in a manner well known in itself, the term "X OE compound" refers to an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene motifs per molecule.

[0158] Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular at C12-C24.

[0159] Preferred sorbitan esters are oxyethylened derivatives of C12-C24 fatty acid monoesters and sorbitan, having 4 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, more preferably 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture, (alkyl C6-C24)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (alkyl C8-C18)(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from C12-C24 saturated fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0161] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-silicone fats

[0162] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-siliconized fats, which may be chosen from solid fats, liquid fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The term “non-siliconized fat” means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds.

[0164] Solid fat means a fat having a melting point above 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0165] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0166] Solid fats can be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0167] By "fatty acids," we mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, previously described.

[0168] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from among saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0169] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0170] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0171] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0172] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0173] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0174] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0175] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof. The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0177] Examples of liquid fats that may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] The liquid fats have a melting point of 25°C or less, preferably 20°C or less, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fats are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0179] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0180] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 alkanes, in particular C10-C14. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures may be cited.

[0181] Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be selected from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, and triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.

[0183] Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] Liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, may include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0185] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0186] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldodecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0188] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0189] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; adipate diisostearyl; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0190] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0191] Preferably, non-siliconized fats are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.

[0192] Preferably, when present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-siliconized fat(s) in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free (0%) of silicone (compound comprising at least one Si-O bond). Other ingredients

[0194] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which may be present at a rate of 70 to 98% by weight, better at 75 to 95% by weight, preferably at 80 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more water-miscible organic solvents, other than the polyols described above, in particular selected from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethanol and / or isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and / or phenylethyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof. When present, said organic solvent(s) generally represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0196] The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more additives commonly used in the field, in particular selected from among thickeners, especially hydrophilic thickeners, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, the Hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, colorants, and fillers. Naturally, those skilled in the art will ensure that any additives are chosen in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsic to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the proposed addition(s). The above-mentioned additives may generally be present in quantities ranging from 0 to 20% by weight of each, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] The pH of the composition according to the invention can range from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 4 to 5.5.

[0198] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a hair cleansing composition, preferably a shampoo.

[0199] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition, particularly for hair, according to the invention comprises:

[0200] (i) one or more cationic guars of INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE and having a dynamic viscosity between 500 and 1500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure,

[0201] preferably in a total content of 0.01 to 8% by weight, better of 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better of 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably of 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0202] (ii) one or more anionic surfactants selected from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts of formula (A):

[0203] R1-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA in which:

[0204] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;

[0205] - n is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 50, in particular 2 to 24, preferably 2 to 10,

[0206] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine;

[0207] preferably in a total quantity ranging from 0.02 to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0208] (iii) one or more anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture:

[0209] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0210] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0211] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

[0212] preferably in a total content of 2 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 15% by weight, even better 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0213] (iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof;

[0214] preferably in a total quantity of 1 to 15% by weight, better 2 to 10% by weight, even better 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0216] The application of the composition according to the invention can be carried out on wet hair or on dry hair, preferably on wet hair.

[0217] The application step may be followed by a resting time of the composition on the hair, ranging from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

[0218] The application step according to the invention can be followed, after any required waiting time, by a rinsing step of the composition, for example with water. Preferably, the application step is followed by a rinsing step.

[0219] The application step may be followed, after a possible processing time and / or a possible rinsing step, by a drying step, for example using a hairdryer. The hair may also be left to dry, in particular in the open air.

[0220] The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of damaged hair.

[0221] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not intended to be limiting. Unless otherwise indicated, quantities are given as a mass percentage of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] Example 1 Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

[0223] [Tables 1] Ingredients A (invention) B (comp) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.6 8.6 Laureth-5 Carboxylic acid 0.35 0.35 Cocamidopropyl betaine 4.6 4.6 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (dynamic viscosity = 500-1500 mPa.s) 0.3 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3 Polyquaterium-7 0.045 Triethyl citrate 1.5 1.5 NaCl 0.8 0.8 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0224] Transparent hair compositions are obtained, which can be used as shampoos.

[0225] The two compositions were compared by a panel of users, and after several uses, it was found that composition A according to the invention provides superior properties to those obtained with the comparative composition B, concerning on the one hand the properties of use, with a richer and creamier foam, more pleasant to the touch; and on the other hand the conditioning properties given to the hair, and in particular hair that is shinier, lighter and softer to the touch, and more manageable.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, comprising: - one or more cationic guars of INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE and having a dynamic viscosity between 500 and 1,500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and - one or more anionic surfactants selected from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is clear, or even transparent; and in particular has a turbidity value less than or equal to 50 NTU, better less than or equal to 20 NTU, even better less than or equal to 10 NTU, preferably less than or equal to 5 NTU.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said cationic guars in a total content of 0.01 to 8% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) are selected from those of formula (A): Ri-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; - n is an integer or decimal (average value) from 2 to 50, in particular from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue; in particular those of formula (A) in which: - Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical in C8-C22, especially in C8-C20, better in C10-C18, or even in C12-C16, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical; - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10; even better those of formula (A) in which Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl radical, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, advantageously a C12-C14 alkyl, in particular lauryl; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to

5. IV. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the anionic surfactant(s) selected from polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts in a total amount from 0.02 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate (or sulfated) anionic surfactants; in particular selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamido ethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10, ethylene oxide motifs;Preferably, selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, particularly in the C6-C30 range, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, as well as their salts; alkyl ether sulfates, in the C6-C30 range, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; as well as their salts; said salts being in particular selected from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols. Preferably, selected from, alone or in mixtures, alkyl sulfates, particularly in the C6-C30 range, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, as well as their salts; especially chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol; even better from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; advantageously in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; and especially alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of anionic surfactants ranges from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, even better from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the total content of additional anionic surfactants is from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, even better from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants; in particular selected from, alone or in mixture, of: - alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines; - derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, possibly quaternized, of the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C): (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+ , X in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;- M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates,;

10. in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; (B) Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group. (C) Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z' '; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in a total quantity going from 1 to 15% by weight, especially from 2 to 10% by weight, better from 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, (alkyl C6-C24)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (alkyl C8-C18)(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from C12-C24 saturated fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-siliconized fats, in particular selected from solid fats, liquid fats, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content of 70 to 98% by weight, better 75 to 95% by weight, preferably 80 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined in one of the preceding claims.

15. A method according to claim 14, wherein the application step is followed by a step of rinsing the composition, for example with water and / or by a step of drying the hair.