Non-transfer skincare and / or makeup composition

A water-in-oil emulsion composition with non-emulsifying silicone elastomers and a silicone acrylate polymer addresses the challenge of comfort and transfer in skincare and makeup, offering a non-transferable, easy-to-remove matte finish with improved optical properties.

FR3170323A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-06-26LVMH RECH

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
LVMH RECH
Filing Date
2024-12-19
Publication Date
2026-06-26

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing skincare and makeup products that are comfortable and non-transferable often lack an optimal matte finish and can stain keratinous materials, while those with water and silicones provide comfort but transfer easily and are difficult to remove.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising a water-in-oil emulsion with specific combinations of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers and a silicone acrylate polymer, which provides a non-transfer, comfortable, and easy-to-remove matte finish with a blurring effect.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves a non-transferable, comfortable, and easy-to-remove matte finish on keratinous materials, maintaining a fresh feel and preventing staining, with improved optical properties and ease of application.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: One or more volatile oils, A first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a first non-volatile oil, A second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a second volatile oil, preferably distinct from the first, A silicone acrylate polymer with or without a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif, An emulsifying surfactant selected from a silicone surfactant, a surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8, and mixtures thereof, and Optionally in addition an additional ingredient selected from fillers, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
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Description

Title of the invention: Non-transferable skincare and / or makeup composition. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to non-transferable skincare and makeup compositions, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular water-in-silicone. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skincare and / or makeup products with good non-transfer properties are generally anhydrous. These products often lack comfort (due in particular to a high percentage of volatile oils), and when comfort is improved, these products lose their non-transfer properties. Meanwhile, emulsion products containing water and silicones are much more comfortable but still transfer, and their matte finish is not always optimal. Furthermore, the most comfortable compositions containing water and silicones can stain the keratinous materials to which they are applied, such as the lips in the case of lipstick, making makeup removal very difficult or even impossible.

[0003] We therefore seek to develop a new non-transfer cosmetic composition, comfortable, with an improved blurring effect and which, advantageously, is easy to remove.

[0004] The Applicant has demonstrated that the specific combination of at least two non-emulsifying silicone elastomers and a silicone acrylate polymer, in a water-in-oil emulsion, makes it possible to obtain a non-transfer, comfortable composition with an improved blurring optical effect, capable of depositing a matte film on keratinous materials. The composition, in the form of an emulsion, also has a fresh feel and is easy to apply. Description of the invention

[0005] A first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. One or more volatile oils, ii. A first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a first non-volatile oil, iii. A second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a second volatile oil, preferably distinct from the first, iv. A silicone acrylate polymer with or without a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif, v. An emulsifying surfactant selected from a silicone surfactant, a surfactant with an HLB of 8 or less, and mixtures thereof, and vi. Possibly also an additional ingredient chosen from among the fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0006] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in the invention.

[0007] In particular, the composition of the invention is a matte lipstick with a blurring optical effect. It leaves a fresh and soft film on the lips. This lipstick lasts a long time on the lips and does not transfer from the lips to a surface under pressure. Furthermore, it has the characteristic of not staining the lips despite the presence of water and pigments, in particular organic pigments such as lacquers. Advantageously, the composition of the invention can be removed without leaving any colored residue on the lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. One or more volatile oils, ii. A first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a first non-volatile oil, iii. A second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a second volatile oil, preferably distinct from the first, iv. A silicone acrylate polymer with or without a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif, v. An emulsifying surfactant selected from a silicone surfactant, a surfactant with an HLB of 8 or less, and mixtures thereof, and vi. Possibly also an additional ingredient chosen from among the fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0009] The term "cosmetic composition" means any composition intended for cosmetic, i.e. aesthetic, purposes, which may be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, especially human skin and / or lips.

[0010] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0011] By "keratinous materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0012] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is liquid.

[0013] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid composition" means a liquid to fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid compositions.

[0014] The "non-transfer" property of the composition applied to the skin or lips is, for example, evaluated by placing a tissue between the lips and pinching them together to assess the transfer of the composition onto the tissue. Non-transfer can also be evaluated by touching the film with a finger, kissing the hand, or applying a piece of fabric or a glass slide to the lips (pressure non-transfer evaluation). The presence or absence of color transferred to the support (hand, finger, fabric, glass, etc.) is then observed; this approach seeks compositions with good resistance to pressure. NON-EMULSION SILICONE ELASTOMERS

[0015] The composition of the invention comprises at least two non-emulsifying silicone elastomers carried respectively in a non-volatile oil and a volatile oil, preferably separate from each other.

[0016] The first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a non-volatile oil makes it possible in particular to improve the optical properties (homogeneity and blurring) of the film applied to keratinous materials.

[0017] The second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a volatile oil makes it possible in particular to obtain a "non-transfer" composition.

[0018] Combination of two non-emulsifying silicone elastomers

[0019] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer," "silicone elastomer," or "silicone-coated elastomer" refers to a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties, particularly the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape after stretching. The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular do not contain polyoxyalkylene motifs (notably polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl motifs. Thus, organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by: - addition reaction crosslinking of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenic unsaturation groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of platinum catalyst; - or by condensation crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of an organotin; - or by condensation reaction crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; - or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, particularly in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; - or by cross-linking organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, or electron beams.

[0020] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenic unsaturation groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst. In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst. Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by the addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0021] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain structure, a branched chain structure, or a cyclic structure. Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, notably to ensure good miscibility with compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0022] The compound (A) can thus be chosen from among the methylhydrogenopolys iloxanes with trimethylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, the cyclic dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.

[0023] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid to the gum-like state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 °C.

[0024] Besides the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0025] The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxanemethylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting dimethylpropylisoxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings in the presence of a platinum catalyst. According to another variant, compound (B) can be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position in the molecule but are preferably located at the ends. Hexadiene, and in particular 1,5-hexadiene, is an example.

[0026] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0027] It is advantageous that compound (A) be added in such an amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenic unsaturating groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0028] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on a support. Catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0029] The first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is conveyed in a first non-volatile oil and the second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is conveyed in a second volatile oil.

[0030] For the purposes of this invention, 'oil' means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0031] For the purposes of this invention, "carried" means that the elastomer is supplied to the composition in a pre-dispersed form in at least one oil, in particular in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in the first oil, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one first oil.

[0032] By "volatile oil" according to the present invention, we mean an oil that has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol:

[0033] 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate at using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0034] This material is spread over the entire plate using a finger. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber with a temperature control of 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0035] [Math.l] % mass lost —------ x 100 W with mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tl5min, t30min or tô0min) and mt0 corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0036] The volatile and respectively non-volatile oil(s) are in particular chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and their mixtures.

[0037] By "siliconized oil", according to the invention, means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0038] By "hydrocarbon oil", according to the invention, means an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms. First non-volatile oil

[0039] In particular, the first oil is chosen from among non-volatile silicone oils.

[0040] By way of example, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) may be cited, as well as polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, either C2 24-pending and / or at the end of the siliconized chain. Examples of polydimethylsiloxanes include heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] In particular, the first oil is chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosity greater than or equal to 5 cSt, for example between 5 cSt and 100 cSt (centistokes); or one of their mixtures. Second volatile oil

[0042] Examples of volatile silicone oils include dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 4.5 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, l,l,l,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 4.5 cSt, methyl trimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, - linear C9-C14 alkanes, - Esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular C8-C16 branched esters, - and their mixtures.

[0044] As examples of C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, we can mention in particular the C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0045] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0046] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes may be used, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0047] More particularly, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (C11 / C13) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (C12 / C14) mixture.

[0048] Examples include alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

[0049] - C9-C14, C10-C14, Cl1-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0050] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0051] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and

[0052] - their mixtures.

[0053] Preferably the second volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, preferably from C8-Ci6 branched alkanes.

[0054] As non-emulsifying silicone elastomers used in combination in the composition of the invention, one can for example use those of INCI name 'dimethicone crosspolymer' sold under the names DOWSIL Silicone Elastomer Blend such as those carried in a non-volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL, 9041" and "DOWSIL, EL-9241 DM" (dimethicone & dimethicone crosspolymer) by the Dow Chemical Company, as well as those carried in a volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL EL-8040 ID", "DOWSIL EL-9140 DM", "DOWSIL EL-9240 DM", "DOWSIL 9045", by the Dow Chemical Company. We can also mention non-emulsifying elastomers carried in a volatile oil, such as those with the INCI name 'Polysilicone-11' such as those sold under the names GRANSIL such as GRANSIL-RG12 (isododecane & polysilicone-11).We can also mention compounds with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as the one marketed under the name KSG-16 by SHIN ETSU (Dimethicone And Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) or with the INCI name VINYL DIMETHICONE / LAURYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER such as KSG 42A (VINYL DIMETHICONE / LAURYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER and isododecane).

[0055] Thus, according to a particular mode, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomers used in association in the composition of the invention are chosen from among the compounds with INCI name 'dimethicone crosspolymer', the compounds with INCI name 'Polysilicone-11', and the compounds with INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer or Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises: - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with the INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer, and - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Polysilicone-11.

[0057] In particular, - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with the INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer, carried in a non-volatile oil, and - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Polysilicone-11 carried in a volatile oil.

[0058] The first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer, carried in a non-volatile oil, makes it possible in particular to improve the optical properties of the film applied to keratinous materials, and thus confer a blurring effect.

[0059] The second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, INCI name Polysilicone-11, carried in a volatile oil, makes it possible in particular to obtain a "non-transfer" composition with a powdery effect.

[0060] The combination of these two non-emulsifying silicone elastomers allows one to have the benefits of each without their disadvantages; it is known in fact that the first, in high concentrations, can make the lips sticky and that the second, in high concentrations, can dry out the lips.

[0061] The same combination but in which the 1st and 2nd non-emulsifying silicone elastomer are reversed also falls within the scope of the invention: - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Polysilicone-11, carried in a non-volatile oil, and - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer carried in a volatile oil.

[0062] Other combinations of two non-emulsifying silicone elastomers also fall within the scope of the present invention: - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, carried in a non-volatile oil, and - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Polysilicone-11, carried in a volatile oil,

[0063] or, conversely - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Polysilicone-11, carried in a non-volatile oil, and - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer carried in a volatile oil,

[0064] or - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Dimethicone crosspolymer, carried in a non-volatile oil, and - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer carried in a volatile oil,

[0065] or vice versa - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, carried in a non-volatile oil, and - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Dimethicone crosspolymer carried in a volatile oil. Third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer

[0066] Advantageously, the composition of the invention may further comprise a third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer selected from silicone elastomers as defined above.

[0067] Preferably, this third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is distinct from the first and second.

[0068] According to a first particular mode, this third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is conveyed in a non-volatile oil, as defined previously.

[0069] According to another particular mode, this third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is conveyed in a volatile oil, as defined previously.

[0070] Preferably, this third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is a compound with the INCI name Dimethicone And Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as those marketed under the name KSG by the company SHIN ETSU as KSG-16 (Dimethicone And Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) or with the INCI name VINYL DIMETHICONE / LAURYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER such as KSG 42A (VINYL DIMETHICONE / LAURYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE).

[0071] Preferably, this third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is carried in a non-volatile oil, for example a dimethicone (6cst) silicone oil.

[0072] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises a third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Dimethicone And Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as those marketed under the name KSG by the company SHIN ETSU as KSG-16 (Dimethicone And Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

[0073] This third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer improves the comfort and softness of the composition on keratinous materials, in particular the lips.

[0074] However, at high concentrations, this elastomer can cause stickiness and possibly transfer from the lips to a surface under pressure.

[0075] A person skilled in the art will therefore adjust the content of each of the three silicone elastomers to benefit from their respective advantages, without their disadvantages.

[0076] Thus, according to a preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with the INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer, - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with the INCI name Polysilicone-11, and - a third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with the INCI name vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer,

[0077] at least two of them being conveyed respectively by a non-volatile oil and by a volatile oil.

[0078] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises: - a first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer, carried in a non-volatile oil, - a second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name Polysilicone-11, carried in a volatile oil, and - a third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer with INCI name vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer carried in a non-volatile oil or alternatively a volatile oil, preferably non-volatile.

[0079] But other triple associations also fall within the scope of the invention by varying the non-volatile or respectively volatile oil of each of the non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, provided that at least two of them are carried respectively by a non-volatile oil and by a volatile oil.

[0080] According to a particular mode, the total dry matter content of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers can range from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] According to a particular mode, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are present in a total dry matter content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Acrylate silicone polymer

[0082] The composition of the invention further comprises a silicone acrylate polymer with or without a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif.

[0083] In particular, the silicone acrylate polymer is selected from:

[0084] (iva) a vinyl polymer having at least one dendrimer-derived motif carbosiloxane, in particular an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer,

[0085] (ivb) a silicone acrylate polymer distinct from compound iva) comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, in particular selected from acrylate / dimethicone copolymers,

[0086] and their mixture.

[0087] The use in the composition of the invention of a silicone acrylate polymer in particular dispersed in a non-cyclic volatile silicone oil causes the composition to dry quickly and no longer transfer. Silicone acrylate polymer with dendrimer motif#

[0088] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a silicone acrylate polymer with a dendrimer motif, in particular a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer motif.

[0089] The vinyl polymer notably has a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, such as those described in Dow Chemical's applications W003 / 045337 and EP 963 751.

[0090] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction from the linkage to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application No. JP H09-171 154 and published under No. JP H11-001530.

[0091] A vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif has a side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and may be obtained from the polymerization of:

[0092] (A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and

[0093] (B) from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a group organic polymerizable using radicals, represented by the general formula (I):

[0094] [Chem.l]

[0095] in which:

[0096] - Y represents an organic group that can be polymerized using radicals,

[0097] - RI represents an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group possessing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and

[0098] - Xi represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the formula (II):

[0099] [Chem.2] ^'Lr r 1 2 । < j+ 1 -R—Si---O-~Si~X pi 3'a (II)

[0100] in which: - R1 is such that in formula (I), - R2 represents an alkylene group possessing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, - R3 represents an alkyl group possessing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, - X +' represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group possessing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms, or the silylalkyl group defined above with formula (11° with i = i + 1; - i is an integer from 1 to 10 that represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and - a1 is an integer from 0 to 3;

[0101] where said radical-polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is selected from:

[0102] organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the formulas:

[0103] [Chem.3] R4 O i H H2C=C™C™O™R“ (III)

[0104] or

[0105] [Chem.4] R4 O .JH H,C—C—C—N—R~ 2 H (IV)

[0106] in which: - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, - R5 represents an alkylene group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and

[0107] organic groups containing a styryl group of formula:

[0108] [Chem.5] C (V)

[0109] in which: - R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, - R7 represents an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, - R8 represents an alkylene group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, - b is an integer from 0 to 4, and - c is either 0 or 1, so if c is 0, -(R8)c- represents a bond.

[0110] The vinyl-type monomer that is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a vinyl-type monomer that contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.

[0111] There are no particular limitations with regard to such a monomer.

[0112] The following are examples of this vinyl-type monomer: methacrylate methyl, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a lower analog alkyl methacrylate; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher analog methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a lower analog fatty acid vinyl ester; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or a higher analogous fatty acid ester;styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, or analogous aromatic vinyl monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, risobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, or analogous vinyl-type monomers containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate, or analogous vinyl-type monomers containing hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or analogous vinyl-type monomers containing a carboxylic acid group;tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl ether; and vinyl, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether, or a similar vinyl-type monomer with ether linkages; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane having a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane having a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound possessing unsaturated groups; butadiene; the vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or fumaric acid; an unsaturated monomer polymerizable with radicals possessing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrene sulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropytrimethylammonium chloride; and an ester of methacrylic acid of an alcohol possessing a tertiary amine group such as an ester of methacrylic acid and diethylamine.

[0113] Multifunctional vinyl-type monomers can also be used.

[0114] The following represent examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dim ethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethylmethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups having divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or similar silicone compounds having unsaturated groups.

[0115] To facilitate the preparation of the raw material mixture for cosmetic products, the number-average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be selected from the range of 3,000 g / mol to 2,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 5,000 g / mol to 800,000 g / mol. It may be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder, or any other form.

[0116] Preferred forms are solutions constituted by dilution in solvents such as silicone oil or organic oil, of a dispersion, or of a powder.

[0117] A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or solution may have a concentration in the range of 0.1 to 95% by weight, preferably between 5 and 70% by weight. However, to facilitate handling and mixture preparation, the range should preferably be between 10 and 60% by weight.

[0118]

[0119]

[0120]

[0121]

[0122]

[0123]

[0124]

[0125]

[0126]

[0127]

[0128]

[0129] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751. According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization of: (A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s) and (B) 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif comprises a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas [Chem. 6] Or [Chem. 7] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer. In particular, the vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponds to an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile in particular, chosen from volatile silicone oils and volatile hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures. According to another particular embodiment, a volatile silicone oil suitable for the invention may be a dimethicone with a viscosity of less than 5 cSt.

[0130] According to another particular embodiment, a volatile hydrocarbon oil suitable for The invention could be isododecane.

[0131] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer of INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane) or that marketed in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL™ FA 4003 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% dimethicone 2c st).

[0132] Silicone acrylate polymer (without carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif)

[0133] According to another particular mode, the silicone acrylate polymer does not include a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif.

[0134] This silicone acrylate polymer is a copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0135] According to the present invention, "copolymer comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" means a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers or meth)acrylic acid ester and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0136] According to a particular embodiment, the monomer (a) is chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, their esters (acrylate, methacrylate) and mixtures of these monomers. According to a preferred embodiment, the monomers in the form of esters are chosen from linear or branched alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, preferably in C1-C24, or even in C1-C22, the alkyl radical being preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethylhexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone acrylate copolymer comprises at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] By “polydimethylsiloxanes” (PDMS) is meant any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond Si-O-Si4, comprising trimethyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.

[0139] The PDMS chains that can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one end of the chain; that is to say, the PDMS may, for example, have a polymerizable radical group on both ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl terminal group on the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group may, in particular, be an acrylic or methacrylic group.The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained by the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560. The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200,000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100,000. The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, like isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g., methyl trimethicone) or hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecanes).

[0140] Examples include polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid-stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane-grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL ACRYLATE / DIMETHICONE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) or KP-541® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL).

[0141] According to a particular and preferred method, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane and one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters, dispersed in a volatile oil, are used, such as the products marketed by Shin Etsu under the name KP-545L® (INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND DIMETHICONE), KP-550® (INCI name ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND) ISODODECANE; or KP-549® and KP-579® named INCI ACRYLATES / DIMETHI CONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE.

[0142] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one acrylate / dimethicone copolymer in a dimethicone of viscosity less than 5cst such as Shin-Etsu's KP-545L®.

[0143] According to a particular mode, the total dry matter content of silicone acrylate polymer(s) with or without carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif ranges from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] The composition of the invention may optionally include another holding polymer, distinct from the silicone acrylate polymer with or without a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif.

[0145] Where the composition further comprises a silicone resin, in particular an MQ (trimethylsiloxysilicate) resin as an additional bonding polymer, the total MQ resin content shall be less than 4% by weight relative to the weight of the total composition. Indeed, the Applicant observed that in the presence of an MQ resin as an additional bonding polymer, the composition exhibited a homogeneity problem when deposited on keratinous materials.

[0146] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition comprises less than 4% of MQ resin, in particular less than 3%, in particular less than 2% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, or is even devoid of MQ resin. OILY PHASE

[0147] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises an oily phase.

[0148] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0149] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils.

[0150] In addition to the volatile oils used to carry one of the non-emulsifying silicone elastomers (e.g. isododecane) and the silicone acrylate polymer (e.g. dimethicone with a viscosity of less than 5cst) above, the composition further comprises one or more additional volatile oils, which may be chosen from the hydrocarbon or silicone volatile oils described above, in particular at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, distinct from the previous oils carrying the polymers described above.

[0151] Thus, according to a particular method, the volatile oil or oils present in the composition of the invention are chosen from silicone oils of viscosity less than 5cSt, volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably linear alkanes in C9-C14, branched alkanes in C8-Ci6, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] According to a particular method, the non-volatile oil or oils are chosen from silicone oils, preferably linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity greater than or equal to 5 cSt.

[0153] In particular, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from linear C9-C14 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably linear C9-C14 alkanes, - a volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil used to carry one of the non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, - a volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil used to transport the silicone acrylate polymer, and - a non-volatile silicone oil used to carry the other non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s).

[0154] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 4.5 cSt, - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, in particular isododecane, and - linear C9-C14 alkanes, in particular selected from n-dodecane (C12), n-tetradecane (C14), and their mixture.

[0155] Volatile dimethicones with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 4.5 cSt and isododecane in the composition of the invention can play the role of vehicles for one of the silicone elastomers and the silicone acrylate polymer described above.

[0156] Linear C9-C14 alkanes can constitute additional volatile oils, of interest for improving comfort, ease of application, lightness and stability of the composition.

[0157] Thus, according to a particular mode, and in addition to the volatile oils used to carry one of the silicone elastomers and the silicone acrylate polymer, the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil chosen from the group consisting of C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably C9-C14 linear alkanes.

[0158] Advantageously, the oils used to carry one of the elastomers and the silicone acrylate polymer, as well as the additional oils in the composition, are volatile, thus increasing the drying speed of the film applied to the keratinous materials and improving the film's durability. The high level of volatile phase, and in particular volatile oils, also results in a lightweight composition that is easily applied to the skin; the volatile oils contribute to the application of the film. in place of the film on the skin during application, and when they evaporate, they leave the film adhering to the skin, with a bare skin sensation, without a material effect.

[0159] Thus, after application, the drying of these oils and water leaves only the pigments, fillers and elastomers on the keratinous materials, in particular the lips; all fixed by the silicone acrylate polymer as a holding polymer.

[0160] According to a particular mode, the total volatile oil content in the composition of the invention, including the oils carrying the elastomers and silicone acrylate polymer, and the additional oils, ranges from 20 to 70%, preferably from 25 to 50% by weight, better from 25 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. AQUEOUS PHASE

[0161] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0162] The term 'water-soluble solvent' according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include:

[0163] - lower Ci-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0164] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;

[0165] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylenes glycols, and their mixtures,

[0166] and their mixtures.

[0167] Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent selected from lower Ci-C5 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] According to a particular mode, the total aqueous phase content, preferably water, in the composition of the invention ranges from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EMULSING SURFACTANT

[0169] The composition of the invention, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, further comprises an emulsifying surfactant selected from a silicone surfactant, a surfactant having an HLB of less than 8, in particular an HLB ranging from 3 to 8, and a mixture thereof. For the purposes of this invention, "emulsifying surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is, one having two parts of different polarities. Generally, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase) and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants can be characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic) value. Lipophilicity balance (HLB), or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, is the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in a molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).

[0170] The emulsifying surfactants used for the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions according to the invention generally have an HLB of less than or equal to 8 and more particularly ranging from 3 to 8. The value of the HLB can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method. Examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols, alkyl-dimethicone copolyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0171] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from silicone surfactants, such as Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone And Tocopherol marketed under the name KF-6038® from SHIN ETSU. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0172] The composition of the invention may further include ingredients selected from gelling agents, fillers, coloring materials, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ingredient selected from fillers, coloring agents, and mixtures thereof. Fillers

[0174] To further enhance the softness, matte finish and blurring effect of the composition, it may include one or more fillers.

[0175] The term "fillers" means particles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong particles, colorless or white particles, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition, and to provide a matte and smooth finish.

[0176] The composition according to the invention will advantageously comprise at least one blurring effect filler. For the purposes of the invention, "blurring effect" means an effect that camouflages the microrelief of the skin and thus makes it possible to attenuate, by optical correction, imperfections in relief and / or color, such as wrinkles, fine lines, pores and spots.

[0177] The terms "blurring effect charge", "Boutante charge", and "blurring charge" will be used interchangeably in the rest of the description.

[0178] According to a particular method, the filler or fillers used in the composition of the invention are chosen from crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated or not with silicone resin, silica powders, silica coated with lauroyl lysine, hydrophobic silica aerogel powders, cellulose powders, lauroyl lysine powders, synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides; polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, boron nitride powders, nylon powders, starch powders, powders of vegetable origin and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Preferably, the fillers are chosen from crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated or not with silicone resin, silica powders, silica coated with lauroyl lysine, lauroyl lysine powders, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Organopolysiloxane elastomer powder

[0181] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder distinct from the organopolysiloxane elastomers described above and carried in oils, said organopolysiloxane elastomer powder being coated or not with silicone resin. Advantageously, the composition further comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin.

[0182] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder not coated with silicone resin. As elastomers in powder form, those sold under the names "DC9505" and "DC9506" by Dow Corning and with the INCI name Dhnethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer may be used.

[0183] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US patent 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and have the INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer".

[0184] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin is a compound with the INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer". Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10%, in particular from 1% to 5%, preferably from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0185] The compositions according to the invention may also contain additional conventional fillers, it being understood that a person skilled in the art will ensure that they do not Do not choose fillers whose nature or quantity in the composition would impact the blurring effect provided by the blurring fillers. Examples of additional fillers distinct from the aforementioned blurring fillers include talcs, natural and synthetic micas, sericites, borosilicates, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] According to a particular mode, the total content of filler(s) in the composition of the invention shall range from 2 to 12%, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Coloring agents

[0187] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0188] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0189] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0190] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0192] These colouring materials, particularly when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0193] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0194] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0195] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0196] Among the "organic pigments", one can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lakes.

[0197] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] In particular, the colouring material(s), when present in the composition, are present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENIQUE

[0199] The composition of the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular a water-in-silicone emulsion.

[0200] This includes a liquid composition, understood as a liquid-to-fluid composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0201] The composition may be coloured (presence of colouring materials) or colourless.

[0202] This may be a skincare composition, a makeup base composition also known as a 'primer', or a makeup composition.

[0203] In the case of a base makeup composition for the skin or lips, it can be applied alone for a blurring effect (reducing the visibility of wrinkles or fine lines on the skin and / or lips), or in combination with a makeup product. According to this latter embodiment, the makeup base or 'primer' is applied as a first layer to the skin or lips, before the application of the colored makeup product as a second layer, thus improving the comfort and hold (non-transfer) of the makeup product, and its subsequent removal.

[0204] In the case of a makeup composition (all-in-one), the combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain, after application of the composition, a colored, comfortable, non-transfer film under pressure, with a blurring effect, and easy makeup removal.

[0205] In particular, the composition of the invention is a fluid composition for the skin or lips, in particular a lip primer, a lip makeup product, a concealer, an eyeshadow, a blush, or a foundation. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0206] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0207] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a comfortable, light, homogeneous film with improved non-transfer properties (under pressure).

[0208] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic process comprises applying a layer of a composition according to the invention to keratinous materials. This may include, in particular, a skincare composition or a makeup composition.

[0209] According to another particular mode, the cosmetic process includes the application of a first layer of a composition according to the invention used as a makeup base, before the application of a second layer of a colored makeup product.

[0210] Thus, the present invention also relates to a method for applying and removing makeup from keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined according to the invention, either as a skincare or makeup composition or alternatively as a makeup base onto which a makeup composition is applied, and then wiping off the keratinous materials to remove the makeup film. The makeup film can be wiped off using cotton or a woven material, used dry or possibly moistened.

[0211] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES Example 1#: Association according to the invention

[0212] Several liquid lipstick compositions have been prepared with the combination of silicone elastomers according to the invention (1st elastomer, 2nd elastomer and with or without the 3rd elastomer) and, respectively, with, as a holding polymer, and at equivalent dry matter content: - a silicone acrylate polymer without a carboxysiloxane dendrimer motif (KP-545L); - a silicone acrylate polymer with a carboxysiloxane dendrimer motif (FA-4003 and FA-400), or - a silicone resin (holding polymer used in liquid lipstick formulas) as a comparator.

[0213] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name and trade names) Phase Invention

[178] With 3 elastomers and KP-54 5L Comparative

[210] With 3 elastomers and MQ re sin Invention

[211] With 3 elastomers and FA40 03 Invention

[226] With 3 elastomers and FA40 04 Invention

[212] With 2 elastomers (Without KS G16) Comparative

[286] With 1 elastomer (Without KS G16 and RG12) Water A QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO 0 DIMETHICONE and DIMETHI CONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOWSIL EL 9241 DM) 1H non-siliconized elastomer Emulsionant conveyed in a non-volatile oil B 15.00 (2.25 MS) 15.00 (2.25 MS) 15.00 (2.25 MS) 15.00 (2.25 MS) 15.00 (2.25 MS) 38.46 (5.77 MS) ISODODECANE and POLYSILI CONE-11 (GRANSIL RG-12) 2 ~ Non-emulsified silicone elastomer Ionizing agent carried in a volatile oil B 15.00 (2.4 MS) 15.00 (2.4 MS) 15.00 (2.4 MS) 15.00 (2.4 MS) 22.00 (3.52 MS) DIMETHICONE and DIMETHI CONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (KSG-16) 3rd Non-emulsified silicone elastomer ionizing agent carried in a non-volatile oil B 7.00 (1.68 MS) 7.00 (1.68 MS) 7.00 (1.68 MS) 7.00 (1.68 MS) DIMETHICONE and ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER (KP-545L) Dendrimer-free silicone acrylate polymer in volatile oil B 11.00 (4.4 MS) 11.00 (4.4 MS) 11.00 (4.4 MS) 11.00 (4.4 MS) 11.00 (4.4 MS) . DIMETHICONE and ACRYLA TES / POLYTRIMETHYLSILOX YMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (DOW CORNING FA-400 3 DM) Silicone acrylate polymer with dendrimer motif in a volatile oil B 11.00 (4.4 MS) ISODODECANE and ACRYLA TES / POLYTRIMETHYLSILOX YMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (DOW CORNING FA-400 4 DM) Silicone acrylate polymer with dendrimer motif in a volatile oil B 11.00 (4.4 MS) TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICAT E (BELSIL TMS 803) silicone resin (other polymer) B1 - 4.4 - - - - LAURYL PEG-9 POLYDIMET HYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE Al 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 C9-12 ALKANE Al 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 ISODODECANE and DISTEAR DIMONIUM HECTORITE and PROPYLENE CARBONATE B 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 SILICA and LAUROYL LYSIN E B1 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 VINYL DIMETHICONE / METH ICON SILSESQUIOXANE CR OSSPOLYMER (KSP-100) B1 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 ORGANIC PIGMENTS Al 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dispersants, preservatives, pH regulator A 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

[0214] *MS = Dry matter (polymer active matter)

[0215] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0216] Phase A is mixed at 300 rpm (deflocculator) until the powders are solubilized (approximately 5 minutes).

[0217] Phase Al is added and mixed for 20 minutes.

[0218] Phase B is pre-mixed by hand. Once homogeneous, phase B is added to phase A and homogenized for 10 minutes at 800 rpm. Once the mixture is homogeneous and fluid, phase B1 is added and the whole is mixed at 800 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0219] The resulting formula was passed through a high-speed rotor-stator mixer for 1 minute at 10,000 rpm.

[0220] The properties of homogeneity upon application, non-transfer under pressure, comfort upon application, makeup removal and the Boutant effect of each of the compositions were evaluated on a panel of 4 people (n=4) according to the following protocol:

[0221] Lipstick compositions are applied to the lips. The drying time is 3 minutes before evaluation. The 5 criteria are evaluated as follows:

[0222] Evaluation of film homogeneity in application - Test duration: 4 hours - Photo taken via the Visia Skin Analysis System at T0 to assess film homogeneity - Visual evaluation of the film's presence and homogeneity after 4 hours. Evaluation of non-transfer (under pressure).

[0223] - Apply 2 coats of lipstick to the lips - Let the film dry for 3 minutes - A glass slide is pressed onto the made-up lips - Evaluation of the transfer onto the glass slide (presence (or absence) of a colored or uncolored deposit) Evaluation of film comfort over time

[0224] - Sensory evaluation after 4 hours - Sensation of dry lips or perception of a rigid film / tightening or comfort Film makeup removal evaluation

[0225] - Apply 2 coats of lipstick to the lips - Let the film dry for 3 minutes - Soak a cotton pad with makeup remover milk - The number of passes required to completely remove the film is counted (1 pass indicates very good performance; 2 passes indicate good performance; 3 or more passes indicate insufficient performance)

[0226] Evaluation of the film's blurring effect over time - Apply two coats of lipstick to the lips - Let the film dry for 3 minutes. - Visual evaluation after the film has dried - Evaluation of the visibility of lip fine lines.

[0227] The given notations are as follows:

[0228] +++: very good performance for the evaluated criterion

[0229] ++: good performance for the evaluated criterion

[0230] + : insufficient performance for the evaluated criterion

[0231] The evaluation results are presented in the following table 2:

[0232] [Tables2] EVALUATIONS Invention

[178] With 3 elastomers and KP-545L Comparison

[210] With 3 elastomers and MQ resin Invention

[211] With 3 elastomers and FA4003 Invention

[226] With 3 elastomers and FA4004 Invention

[212] With 2 elastomers (Without KSG16) Comparison

[286] With only 1 elastomer (Without KSG16) Homogeneity upon application +++ + +++ +++ +++ +++ Non-transfer (under pressure) +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ + Application comfort +++ + +++ +++ ++ ++ Makeup removal +++ ++ +++ +++ +++ +++ Blurring effect +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++

[0233] These results show that: - Silicone acrylate polymers, with or without a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif, improve the homogeneity properties of the film and the comfort of application, compared to a silicone resin; - The combination of two emulsifying silicone elastomers, carried respectively in a non-volatile oil and a volatile oil, allows

[0234]

[0235]

[0236] to improve the properties of non-transfer under pressure and comfort upon application, while maintaining the properties of homogeneity, makeup removal and blurring effect, compared to a composition comprising a single emulsifying silicone elastomer; - The presence of the 3rd emulsifying silicone elastomer of the Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer type further improves the comfort of the composition. Example 2: Other formulations according to the invention 2-1 Lip Primer (pigment-free) [Tables 3] Ingredients (INCI name and trade names) Phase % Water A QsplOO DIMETHICONE and DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOWSIL EL 9241 DM) 1H Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer B 15.00 (2.25 MS) ISODODECANE and POLYSILICONE-11 (GRA NSILRG-12) 2~ Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer B 15.00 (2.4 MS) DIMETHICONE and DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (KSG-16) 3rd Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer B 5.00 (1.2 MS) DIMETHICONE and ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER (KP-545L) Dendrimer-free silicone acrylate polymer in a volatile oil B 11.00 (4.4 MS) LAURYL PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYET HYL DIMETHICONE A 4 DIMETHICONE (KF-96L 1.5 CS) B 11 SILICA and LAUROYL LYSINE B1 8.00 VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQ UIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER (KSP-100) B1 3.00 GLYCERINE (VEGETAL GLYCEROL MB) A 2.00 Dispersants, preservatives, pH regulator A 1.00

[0237] MS = dry matter

[0238] The composition is prepared according to the protocol described in example 1 (without the Al phase, which is absent here).

[0239] When applied to the lips, this primer creates a smooth, comfortable film with a blurring effect (reducing the visibility of fine lip lines). It also improves the non-transferability of a colored lipstick applied as a second layer over this primer, and facilitates the removal of the lipstick.

[0240] 2-2 Blush

[0241] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI name and trade names) Phase % Water A QsplOO COLORANTS A 0.15 GLYCERIN (GLYCEROL VEGETAL MB) A 5 DIMETHICONE and DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOWSIL EL 9241 DM) 1H Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer B 15.00 (2.25 MS) ISODODECANE and POLYSILICONE-11 (GRANSIL RG-12) 2~ Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer B 15.00 (2.4 MS) DIMETHICONE and DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (K SG-16) 3rd Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer B 7.00 (1.68 MS) DIMETHICONE and ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER (KP-545L) Polymer dendritic-free silicone acrylate in volatile oil B 8 (3.2 MS) DIMETHICONE (KF-96L 1.5CS) B 12 LAURYL PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOX ETHYL DIMETHICONE Al 3 C9-12 ALKANE Al 3 NACRES B1 5 SILICA (SUNSHPERE H-33) B1 1 VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SIL SESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER (KSP-100) B1 3 ORGANIC PIGMENTS AND MINERAL X Al 2.00 Dispersants, preservatives, pH regulator A 2

[0242] MS = dry matter

[0243] The composition is prepared according to the protocol described in example 1.

[0244] Applied to the cheeks, this blush provides a homogeneous, comfortable, non-transferable, and easily removable coloured film.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. One or more volatile oils, ii. A first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a first non-volatile oil, iii. A second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer carried in a second volatile oil, preferably distinct from the first, iv. A silicone acrylate polymer with or without a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif, v. An emulsifying surfactant selected from a silicone surfactant, a surfactant with an HLB of 8 or less, and mixtures thereof, and vi. Optionally, in addition, an additional ingredient selected from fillers, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, preferably distinct from the first and second.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are selected from the compounds with INCI name 'dimethicone crosspolymer', the compounds with INCI name 'Poly silicone-11', and the compounds with INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer or Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that: - The first non-emulsifying silicone elastomer has the INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer, - The second non-emulsifying silicone elastomer has the INCI name Polysilicone-11, and - The third non-emulsifying silicone elastomer has the INCI name vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are selected from silicone oils of viscosity less than 5cSt, volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably linear C9-C14 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes and mixtures thereof,

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the non-volatile oil(s) are selected from silicone oils, preferably linear polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosity greater than or equal to 5 cSt.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the total dry matter content of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the silicone acrylate polymer is selected from: (iva) a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif, in particular an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer of INCI name: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, (ivb) a silicone acrylate polymer distinct from compound iva) comprising (meth)acrylic groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, in particular selected from acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total dry matter content of silicone acrylate polymer(s) with or without carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif ranges from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 4% of MQ resin (trimethylsiloxysilicate), in particular less than 3%, in particular less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even devoid of MQ resin.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the filler(s) are selected from crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated or not with silicone resin, silica powders, lauroyl lysine coated silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel powders, cellulose powders, synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides; polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, boron nitride powders, nylon powders, starch powders, powders of vegetable origin and mixtures thereof.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one lauroyl lysine coated silica or one silicone elastomer powder coated with silicone resin.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant is a silicone surfactant.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the total volatile oil content is from 20 to 70% by weight, preferably from 25 to 50% by weight, better from 25 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the total aqueous phase content, preferably water, is from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.