Manufacturing method for watch parts

Abstract

A method for producing a mould for the production of a watch part, comprising the steps of obtaining (E1) at least one substrate (20) with an upper surface (21), applying (E2) a treatment having an anti-reflection effect to all or part of the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20), then depositing (E31) a layer of photosensitive resin (40) on the upper surface of the substrate (20), irradiating (E32) the photosensitive resin (40) with an exposure radiation (45) according to a predetermined pattern, then developing (E33) the photosensitive resin (40), to form a mould at least partially bounded by the photosensitive resin (40) and by part of the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20).

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a mold for manufacturing a watch component. The present invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a watch component using said mold. The present invention also relates to the watch component itself obtained using said method. [Background technology]

[0002] Existing manufacturing methods for watch parts are not sufficient or suitable for manufacturing parts with complex shapes, i.e., forming, for example, a "Clou de Paris" type pattern, or including chamfers, bevels, angles, inclined surfaces. These methods sometimes succeed in achieving certain complex shapes, but only by using laborious steps such as post-machining. In general, existing manufacturing methods for manufacturing watch parts do not allow complex shapes to be manufactured with sufficient precision. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0003] [Patent Document 1] European Patent Application Publication No. 3670441 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0004] The present invention therefore aims to improve known manufacturing methods for producing timepiece parts, in particular to make it possible to produce timepiece parts of complex shape simply and with a high degree of precision. [Means for solving the problem]

[0005] For this reason, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a die for manufacturing a watch part, comprising the steps of: obtaining a substrate including a top surface; applying a treatment having an anti-reflective effect to all or part of the top surface of the substrate, depositing a layer of photosensitive resin on the top surface of the substrate; irradiating the photosensitive resin with radiation according to a predetermined pattern; developing the photosensitive resin; Including, forming a mold at least partially bounded by the photosensitive resin and a portion of the top surface of the substrate.

[0006] The invention is more particularly defined in the claims.

[0007] The objects, features and advantages of the present invention will be explained in detail in the following description of particular embodiments, given as non-limiting examples with reference to the accompanying drawings. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0008] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing steps of a method for manufacturing a watch component according to one embodiment of the present invention. [Diagram 2] FIG. 2a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Diagram 3] FIG. 3a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 3b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 4] FIG. 4a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 4b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Diagram 5] FIG. 5a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 5b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 6]FIG. 6a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 6b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 7] FIG. 7a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 7b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 8] FIG. 8a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 8b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 9] FIG. 9a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 9b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 10] FIG. 10a is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 10b is a cross-sectional view of a step of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 11] FIG. 11 is a top perspective view of a needle according to one embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 12] FIG. 12 is a cross-sectional view of one end of a needle according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 13] FIG. 13 is a cross-sectional view of a step of creating a recess in a substrate for producing a mold for manufacturing a needle according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 14] FIG. 14 is a cross-sectional view of a step of creating a recess in a substrate for producing a mold for manufacturing a needle according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 15] FIG. 15 is a cross-sectional view of a mold for manufacturing a needle according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 16] FIG. 16 is a cross-sectional view of a step of manufacturing a needle using a mold according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 17] FIG. 17 is a perspective view from above of an escape wheel according to one embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 18] FIG. 18 is a cross-sectional view of a manufacturing die for an escape wheel according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 19] FIG. 19 is a cross-sectional view of a step of manufacturing an escape wheel by using a die according to an embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 20] FIG. 20 illustrates certain structures that can cause stray radiation. [Figure 21] FIG. 21 illustrates the implementation of an alternative embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 22] FIG. 22 shows cross-sectional views of steps of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a third embodiment of the present invention. [Diagram 23] FIG. 23 shows cross-sectional views of steps of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a third embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 24] FIG. 24 shows cross-sectional views of steps of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to the third embodiment of the present invention. [Diagram 25] FIG. 25 shows cross-sectional views of steps of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a third embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 26] FIG. 26 shows cross-sectional views of steps of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a third embodiment of the present invention. [Figure 27] FIG. 27 is a cross-sectional view of a modification of the assembly shown in FIG. [Figure 28] FIG. 28 shows cross-sectional views of steps in a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a fourth embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0009] The invention achieves the sought object through the intermediate production of a specific mould capable of presenting a complex shape, in order to obtain a watch part of complex shape by simple moulding in the specific mould, the complex shape being characterised in particular by a part comprising at least one side wall inclined relative to the two mutually parallel main planes of the part or inclined relative to said surface of the part formed at the bottom of the specific mould.

[0010] The present invention comprises, firstly, a method for manufacturing a mold for manufacturing a watch component, and secondly, the method for manufacturing the watch component itself, as shown diagrammatically in Figure 1, a first step Ph1 of which consists in carrying out the method for manufacturing the mold, and a second step Ph2 of which is the use of said mold for manufacturing the watch component itself.

[0011] A method for manufacturing a mould for the production of a watch part according to a particular embodiment, chosen as an illustrative example to facilitate understanding, will first be described with reference to figures 2a to 10a, 2b to 10b and also to figures 22 to 28.

[0012] The method comprises, according to two first embodiments, a first step E1 consisting of obtaining a substrate 20, potentially with substantially parallel upper and lower surfaces 21 and 23, in a thin, substantially flat form, with a thickness of several hundred microns to a few millimeters. The upper surface 21 is usually flat. As a variant, the upper surface may not be flat, for example it may be dome-shaped and / or have one or more recesses. In any case, for the sake of simplicity, the plane P1 in which said upper surface 21 extends is described, although in the case of a surface that is not perfectly flat, as will be explained in more detail below, said plane P1 is a tangent plane. The lower surface 23 extends in a plane P3 as well. The thickness of the substrate 20 is the distance between the two planes P1 and P3.

[0013] Furthermore, the substrate 20 may be made of a conductive material, such as a metal or metal alloy, such as stainless steel, or may be made of a non-conductive material, such as silicon, glass, or ceramic, or a polymer, or a composite material, for example in the form of a wafer or block. The substrate preferably has a low roughness. The substrate may advantageously undergo conventional preparation steps, including degreasing, cleaning, and optionally its passivation and / or activation. In addition, the substrate may be provided with markers to allow precise orientation.

[0014] According to this embodiment, the first step E1 of obtaining the substrate 20 includes an optional step consisting of creating a recess 30 starting from the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20 to form a recess 30 bounded by at least one inclined plane 31 inclined with respect to a plane P1 in which said surface of the substrate extends, except for the recess. Said plane P1 is considered to be present at the interface 4 between the recess 30 and the remaining upper surface 21 of the substrate 20, being considered as a continuous upper surface, except for the recess, i.e. at said interface 4. Said interface forms an edge. As mentioned above, said plane is a plane tangential to the upper surface 21 of the substrate, outside the recess, in case the surface is not entirely planar. Similarly, said inclined plane 31 of the recess 30 is considered with reference to a tangent plane Pi tangential to said inclined plane, in case said plane is not planar. In general, a recess 30 includes at least one inclined plane if it includes at least one tangent plane Pi that is neither perpendicular nor parallel to the abovementioned plane P1.

[0015] Advantageously, the inclined surface 31 has a slope, at the interface 4 between the upper surface 21 and the recess 30, which forms an angle with the upper surface 21 (ie with the plane P1) of between 10 and 80 degrees.

[0016] This step is optional. The substrate does not necessarily have to have a recess.

[0017] 2a shows a first embodiment of a recess 30 having a curved, rounded, continuous and concave surface. The recess has a curved cross section, i.e. a cross section in a plane perpendicular to the plane P1, which forms a generally rounded U-shape. In this example, the recess 30 has an inclined surface 31 on substantially the entire surface.

[0018] 2b shows a second embodiment of a recess 30 having the shape of a conical surface forming a V-shaped cross section. As a variant, the recess may be triangular in shape and have the same V-shaped cross section. Each arm of the V forms a straight portion of the inclined surface 31 of the recess 30.

[0019] Of course, the invention does not relate to the shape of the recess 30 itself, which may be arbitrary, and is not limited to the two embodiments shown. The recess 30 may include an inclined surface only on a subsection of its entire surface. The inclined surface may be formed by a number of flat and / or curved small planes, each of which is potentially ultimately an inclined surface as defined above. The recess may also be of concave or convex shape. In general, an inclined surface of the upper surface of a substrate, whether in a recess or not, is defined as a surface that makes an angle other than 0° or other than 90° with the above-mentioned plane P1. The inclined surface 31 may be continuous or discontinuous. The angle that the inclined surface makes with the plane P1 may be constant or not. The inclined surface may be flat or curved. In the case of a curved surface, the above-mentioned angle may be characterized, for example, by the angle that a tangent at a given point on the inclined surface makes with the plane P1, which angle varies depending on the profile of the inclined surface. The angle that the inclined surface makes with the plane P1 can be seen more particularly in a view of a section passing through a plane perpendicular to the plane P1, i.e. in the cross section defined above. It is noted that in the case of a non-flat top surface 21, the angle is measured with respect to a plane tangential to the top surface 21 at the interface 4. In addition, one or more recesses 30 may be formed in the substrate 20. The recesses 30 may include one or more inclined surfaces 31.

[0020] In addition, the recess 30 may be formed by any means known to the person skilled in the art, such as conventional mechanical machining, laser machining, laser etching, chemical etching or electrochemical dissolution. As a variant, the recess may not be formed by a specific machining step, but may result directly from the manufacture of the substrate 20, whose top surface 21 is locally non-flat. In all cases, the recess 30 takes the form of a surface that is recessed with respect to the remainder of the top surface 21 of the substrate 20, the recess extending into the thickness of the substrate 20 to a predetermined depth d.

[0021] According to a third embodiment illustrated in figures 22 to 26, the substrate 20 at least partially exhibits the shape of a layer or block, in which at least one recess 30 is formed in the shape of a recessed area, in particular by means of the two-photon polymerization technique known under the acronym TPP, said substrate 20 being made of resin or of any material that can be constructed by means of two-photon polymerization (for example certain ormocers, photosensitive composite materials and certain glass-ceramics). Said substrate 20 is placed on a support 70, as shown in figure 22. In a variant not shown, the substrate 20 subjected to two-photon polymerization may take the shape of a plate, with a shape similar to that of the substrates of the first two embodiments described above.

[0022] It is noted that the two-photon polymerization technique used in the third embodiment offers many advantages, including many possible complex shapes, such as protruding overlapping areas, or non-continuous structures, or corrugated shapes. The technique also allows to achieve a very high level of precision, with a fineness of less than 100 nm and a roughness Ra of less than 10 nm. The technique also allows to perform over a large irradiation volume. The technique allows to create, for example, locally curved and also angled sloping sidewalls.

[0023] Alternatively, a substrate 20 made of resin or other compatible material can be formed with the recesses using stereolithography or grayscale photolithography techniques, which have less precision and limited geometry.

[0024] The depth d of the recess 30 corresponds to the distance measured between a plane P1 of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20 and a plane P2 that is parallel to the plane P1 and passes through a point on the recess 30 that is furthest from the plane P1. The depth d is measured in a direction perpendicular to the planes P1 and P2, i.e. perpendicular to the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20. Preferably, the depth d of the recess is 1000 μm or less, or 500 μm or less, or 400 μm or less. The depth d is also preferably 10 μm or more, or 50 μm or more, or 80 μm or more, or 100 μm or more.

[0025] As will become clear hereinafter, the recess 30 may at least partially act as a mould for the production of the watch component. The recess is more particularly used to define the complex shape of the watch component, in order to make it advantageously manufacturable by simple moulding, without the need for additional machining steps. It is noted that the recess has a shape suitable for the future de-moulding of the part of the watch component moulded in it. To this end, according to one exemplary embodiment, the cross-sectional area of ​​the recess in a plane parallel to the plane P1 in which the upper surface 21 of the substrate extends is smaller at every depth than the cross-sectional area at the opening side of the recess, i.e. at the interface 4 between the recess 30 and the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20. According to another exemplary embodiment, the cross-sectional area of ​​the recess 30 parallel to the plane P1 in which the upper surface 21 of the substrate extends decreases with increasing distance from said plane P1. It is noted that the substrate 20 has the single function of forming part of a mould for the production of the watch component, and that the substrate does not belong to the future watch component. It is noted that the third embodiment shown in Figures 22 to 26 uses a support 70 which does not form part of the surface of the mould or of the future watch part.

[0026] Optionally, but not shown, a conductive layer may be deposited on all or part of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20, in particular at least partially in the recess 30, in particular on its inclined surface. Such a conductive layer is necessary if the substrate is not made of a conductive material and if the second stage Ph2 of the manufacture requires a conductive mould, as will be explained in more detail below. The conductive layer is intended to act, in particular, as an electrode for starting an electroforming, electrodeposition or electroplating step intended to grow a future metal layer on the watch part. As is known, the starting conductive layer may comprise a sub-layer of chromium, nickel or titanium covered with a layer of gold or copper, thus presenting a multi-layer structure. The conductive layer may be deposited by the methods of physical vapour deposition (PVD), or chemical vapour deposition (CVD), or atomic layer deposition (ALD), or pulsed laser deposition (PLD), by thermal evaporation or by any other means known to the person skilled in the art.

[0027] The method according to the embodiment then comprises a step E2 consisting of applying an anti-reflection treatment to the substrate, the function of which is explained below. According to the embodiment, said step is carried out in the form of a step consisting of depositing an anti-reflection layer 25 over at least a part of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20 that is not perpendicular to the incident irradiation radiation suitable for the irradiation of the resin, which is carried out in a subsequent step described below. The application of the anti-reflection layer 25 is particularly relevant to the inclined surface 31 of the recess 30 in the illustrated embodiment, based on the knowledge that it is generally preferable to apply the irradiation radiation perpendicular to the plane P1 in which the rest of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20 extends, except for the recess, and more generally the inclined surface. The anti-reflection layer 25 may extend over all or part of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20, as shown in Figures 3a and 3b, or even over a part of the support 70, as shown in Figure 23.

[0028] Preferably, the antireflection layer makes it possible to attenuate the reflection of radiation, in particular UV radiation, by more than 98%, or more than 99%, or more than 99.9%. The antireflection layer may be of any chemical nature known to the person skilled in the art. The antireflection layer may comprise an organic material. In particular, the antireflection layer may be a layer of material known under the trade name AZ®-BARLi® II.

[0029] The anti-reflection treatment may comprise depositing an anti-reflection layer 25 by spin-coating or spray-coating or dip-coating or by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or physical vapor deposition (PVD) or by atomic layer deposition (ALD) or pulsed laser deposition (PLD) or using any technique known to the person skilled in the art. As a variant, the step E2 consisting of applying an anti-reflection treatment to the substrate may comprise a special structuring of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20 or of the surface of the support 70. Such a physical structuring of the upper surface 21 of the substrate may be achieved inter alia by sandblasting, for example by means of a laser.

[0030] The method according to the embodiment then comprises a step E3 consisting of forming at least one side wall of the mould through the deposition of material, in particular resin, on the upper surface of the substrate to complete the mould, the mould being formed by a combination of a part of the substrate and the resin. Advantageously, the step consisting of depositing material forms the side walls of the production mould, which complement the substrate, in particular a part of the upper surface 21 of the substrate, and optionally a recess in the upper surface 21 of the substrate forming all or part of the bottom of the mould.

[0031] According to this embodiment, the resin is deposited using photolithographic techniques during the step, which includes several sub-steps, as will be explained in detail below.

[0032] First, the step includes a substep E31 consisting of depositing a layer of photosensitive resin 40 on all or part of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20 and optionally on the support 70 (optionally coated with a conductive layer and coated with an anti-reflective layer 25 as described above), optionally in particular on at least part of the inclined surface 31 of the recess 30, as shown in Figures 4a, 4b and 24.

[0033] The photopolymer may be negative or positive: if negative, the photopolymer is designed to become insoluble or sparingly soluble in a developer under the action of the irradiating radiation (i.e. the exposed areas resist development), whereas if positive, the photopolymer is designed to become soluble in a developer under the action of the irradiating radiation, while the parts not exposed to radiation remain insoluble or sparingly soluble.

[0034] The method then comprises a substep E32 consisting of irradiating the photosensitive resin 40 with exposure radiation 45 through a mask 5, as shown in figures 5a and 5b and 25. The exposure radiation 45 may be UV exposure, in order to irradiate the photosensitive resin 40 according to a pattern defined by a mask 5 having openings and opaque areas corresponding to said pattern. Alternatively, exposure may be carried out by direct writing of the predetermined pattern (thus not requiring a mask) using a laser or an electron beam. The exposure radiation 45 may be X-rays, UV, visible light, IR (infrared) radiation or an electron beam.

[0035] According to one embodiment, the illumination radiation 45 used is perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the plane in which the mask 5 extends, the mask itself being parallel to the plane P1 of the upper surface 21 of the substrate 20, so that only those areas of the photosensitive resin 40 positioned in coincidence with the openings formed in the mask 5 are illuminated. The illuminated areas are defined by sidewalls perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the plane P1. These sidewalls are by definition called "upright sidewalls". As an advantageous variant, the illumination radiation 45 may be inclined with respect to the plane P1 of the substrate 20, or more generally with respect to the upper surface 21 of the substrate, such incident radiation defining inclined sidewalls of the resin.

[0036] The step consisting of depositing the resin then includes a sub-step E33 consisting of developing the resin, according to a variant embodiment, as shown in figures 6a, 6b, 7a, 7b, 8a, 8b, 26, 27. Figure 27 illustrates a variant of the assembly of figure 26 of the third embodiment, noting that the variant is the result obtained by developing, following the aforementioned step E32, tilted and rotated with respect to the incident radiation, during which the resin 40 of the substrate 20 is polymerized. If the resin is a negative resin, the development consists of removing the areas of the resin that are not irradiated, for example by dissolving in a chemical or by plasma treatment. In the case of a positive photosensitive resin, the irradiated areas are removed during development, while the non-irradiated areas remain on the substrate. After development, the substrate 20 is exposed where the resin has been removed. The remaining parts of the resin define the side walls of the mould, and the parts of the substrate circumscribed by the side walls of the mould define the bottom of the mould. Thus, the combination of the part of the substrate and the part made of resin forms the mould.

[0037] As mentioned above, the mask 5 allows to define the areas of the resin that should or should not be irradiated, and ultimately the resin shape of the mould and therefore the shape of the mould. To achieve a sufficient mould precision, it is important to limit or prevent any stray irradiation, i.e. any unwanted irradiation radiation that may reach the resin. Such stray irradiation radiation 46 may arise in figures 5a and 5b in the absence of an anti-reflection treatment of the substrate 20. Stray irradiation radiation 46 may also result from incident irradiation radiation 45 reflecting from the surface of the substrate 20, which may lead to the reflected irradiation reaching the resin in undesired areas. In particular, stray irradiation radiation may be able to reach areas of the resin that are intended to form the side walls of the future mould, which may result in the mould containing irregularities in the resin side walls, which is undesirable since it may lead to the presence of small cavities (or small protrusions, depending on the type of resin) in the side walls of the watch parts that are finally produced with said mould.

[0038] The phenomenon of stray radiation may in particular result from the inclined surface 31 of the recess 30. As a variant, such stray reflection configurations may also arise in the case of incident radiation 45 that is not perpendicular to the substrate 20. The presence of stray radiation is relatively predictable, since it depends on the shape of the selected structure. For this reason, if there is a risk of stray radiation, a method according to the invention is preferably implemented, which includes, inter alia, a step E2 of applying a treatment having an anti-reflection effect to the substrate as described above, in order to completely or partially eliminate the appearance of such stray radiation, thus ensuring the correct production of the mould defined by the mask 5.

[0039] FIG. 20 illustrates, by way of example, a risk situation in which the incident illuminating radiation 45 is inclined at an angle other than 0° and other than 90° with respect to the flat top surface of the substrate 20. Without the anti-reflection layer, stray radiation 46 is formed and passes through the resin in areas that would not be affected. In another variant, which corresponds specifically to the case of a substrate with a relief, for example a recess with an inclined surface, an angle α other than 0° and other than 90° between the incident radiation and the substrate can be the result of the shape of the substrate. As shown in FIGS. 5a and 5b, in the case of a substrate with a recess, the incident radiation is perpendicular to the plane P1. Because the surface of the recess is inclined, the incident radiation can be reflected and form stray radiation 46. In another variant, the two specific shapes described above can be combined by using an oblique incident illuminating radiation 45 that reflects from an inclined surface of the substrate.

[0040] In summary, if the direction of the incident radiation is not perpendicular to the surface on which the resin to be irradiated is deposited and / or if the substrate contains inclined surfaces that are not perpendicular to the direction of the incident radiation, this can lead to a risk of stray irradiation of the resin outside the areas directly irradiated by the incident radiation. Such stray irradiation impairs the definition of the mold by lateral irradiation of areas of the resin that should not be irradiated. For example, in the case of a substrate 20 having a flat and polished top surface 21, as shown in Figures 5a and 5b, the radiation 45 incident on the positive resin 40 in a direction perpendicular to the plane P1 is reflected from the inclined surface 31 of the recess 30 created in the substrate 20, generating a stray reflection that forms a stray radiation 46 that is not perpendicular to the plane P1.

[0041] According to one variant embodiment, the relative position of the substrate and the irradiating radiation (or the source of irradiating radiation) may be changed during the course of the irradiation, in a mode called "dynamic". For example, the substrate may be mounted with the ability to rotate and rotate on its own so that its entire circumference is treated with the irradiating radiation, as shown in Figure 21. By rotating the planar substrate during the irradiation of the resin, a chamfered ring can be obtained around its entire circumference.

[0042] Alternatively, the photosensitive resin may be exposed to illumination radiation where the angle of incidence of the illumination radiation with respect to the top surface of the substrate varies over time.

[0043] It is noted that the preceding steps, although not described in detail below, may be applied in a similar manner to the embodiment shown in FIG. 22, as shown diagrammatically in FIGS.

[0044] In a variant embodiment, step E3 of forming at least one side wall of the mold is carried out in a medium with a suitable refractive index in order to obtain a side wall with a greater inclination than would be obtained using the same incident irradiation radiation in a standard irradiation configuration, i.e. in open air. For example, when using a photosensitive resin, this step may be carried out in glycerin, which has a refractive index close to that of the resin, in order to obtain an incidence angle of more than 38°.

[0045] FIG. 21 illustrates the above principle, applicable to all the above-mentioned embodiments, and therefore illustrates a corresponding embodiment of the invention. In this embodiment of the invention, the entire mold to be manufactured is immersed in a medium 80 with a refractive index different from that of the atmosphere. For this, the irradiating radiation 45 is reflected by a mirror 110 so as to reach at right angles the wall of a container, for example made of glass, containing a medium 80 with a refractive index different from that of the atmosphere, for example glycerin. In this example, it was chosen that the photosensitive resin 40 should be irradiated in order to define an angle α at which the resin side walls are inclined relative to the upper surface of the substrate 20. For this, in this example, the substrate 20 is covered with a layer of photosensitive resin 40, for example of the SU8 type, on which a mask is placed, for example a transparent soda lime mask made locally opaque by deposition of chromium, to form a mask 5. The substrate 20 is inclined at an angle θ relative to the wall of the container and relative to the incident light 45. In this embodiment, the substrate 20 is mounted with the ability to rotate on itself. At the interface between a medium 80 having a refractive index different from that of air and a layer 90 of material forming the mask 5, the radiation is refracted at an angle β measured relative to the normal of said interface. In the proposed configuration, by choosing appropriate optical properties for the various materials, it is possible to irradiate the photosensitive resin in the area 100 at angles larger than those achievable in air (the maximum limit being 38°).

[0046] For example, the refractive index n_ Glycerin Consider a medium 80 made of glycerin with a refractive index of n = 1.67. Similarly, the refractive index n_ SU8 Consider a photopolymer of the SU8 type, with a refractive index of n = 1.67. The refractive index of air is n = 1. The material of layer 90 has a refractive index of n_ Soda lime =1.53 clear soda lime is selected.

[0047] In this example, it is desired to locally irradiate the SU8 resin in order to define its sloping sidewall angle α=50°.

[0048] According to Snell's law of refraction, n Glycerin .sinθ=nSoda lime sin β=n SU8 .sin α n Glycerin =n SU8 Therefore, θ=α. Thus, when the substrate 20 is tilted at an angle θ=50°, this angle θ is the angle of incidence of the radiation 45 on the surface of the mask. At the interface between glycerin and soda lime, the radiation is refracted at an angle β=56.7°. The proposed configuration allows irradiating the SU8 resin at an angle of 50°, compared to a maximum limit of 38° in air.

[0049] According to a variant embodiment, the resin side walls forming part of the mold may be produced with the method described in US Pat. No. 5,999,333, combining at least one step based on conventional photolithography as described above and at least one step based on a two-photon polymerization technique, thus the same technique used to form the recesses in the resin of the substrate 20 in the third embodiment of the invention. Such an approach advantageously makes it possible to obtain a three-dimensional polymerization according to a predetermined pattern.

[0050] Furthermore, the resin mold part may be multi-layered with a first resin layer including a first opening and a second resin layer, for example made of a hard film, including a second opening, involving at least one step based on conventional photolithography.

[0051] As a result of the step consisting of developing the resin, as described above, a mould is formed from the combination of the substrate and said resin 40. The substrate 20, the recess 30 potentially presenting at least one inclined surface 31 and the resin side wall or side walls defined above make it possible to define the complex shape of the watch part to be manufactured. The resin 40, and in particular the perfectly defined side wall 40 which it forms from the substrate 20, defines the side wall of the watch part to be manufactured.

[0052] It is noted that when the substrate 20 includes at least one recess 30, there are several possible configurations for positioning the sidewall 41 of the resin 40 on the substrate 20.

[0053] According to a first configuration, shown in figures 6a and 6b, a sidewall 41 of the resin may be formed coincident with the interface 4 between the recess 30 and the upper surface 21 of the substrate. In this case, the sidewall extends at the end of the recess 30, i.e. at an edge formed on the outer edge of the recess 30, perpendicular to the plane in which the upper surface of the substrate extends.

[0054] The quality of the production of the mould has a direct influence on the watch part produced in said mould. It is evident that it is not easy to position the resin side wall 41 exactly in line with the edge defining the outer periphery of the recess 30 described above. Any deviation in the contact point with the resin side wall 41 can result in defects in the mould and thus in the watch part produced, such as, for example, protrusions.

[0055] To reduce this risk, a second configuration, shown in figures 7a, 7b, 26 and 27, consists in creating at least one side wall 41 in the recess 30, in order to eliminate the need for precise positioning at the interface 4. With such an approach, the recess 30 is formed in a shape larger than the watch part to be produced, before being bounded by the side wall 41 which is positioned within the recess.

[0056] According to a third configuration shown in Figures 8a and 8b, the photosensitive resin forms at least one sidewall 41 outside the recess, i.e. the resin sidewall extends from the upper surface 21 of the substrate outside the interface 4 with the recess 30.

[0057] The present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments. As an example, Fig. 30 illustrates the manufacture of a mold according to a fourth embodiment, which combines one of the first two embodiments with the third embodiment. In particular, the mold first includes at least one recess 30 formed in a first substrate 20 by applying a method similar to that described with reference to the first two embodiments, and at least one recess 30' formed in a second substrate 20' positioned on the first substrate 20 by applying the third embodiment of the present invention. In the fourth embodiment, the first substrate 20 also serves to support the second substrate 20'.

[0058] Of course, other embodiments are foreseeable, particularly using an approach similar to that of FIG. 30, where the recesses may be formed using different techniques.

[0059] Finally, the method for producing a mold may comprise an optional step E4, after a sub-step not shown, consisting for example of developing the photosensitive resin with exposure radiation, of partial or complete removal of the antireflection layer 25. It is noted that such removal of the antireflection layer 25 is not necessary in all cases. When carried out, such removal is applied to the substrate 20 belonging to the mold for the production of the watch part, i.e. between the resin side walls 41. Said removal may be carried out mechanically or chemically, for example by stripping or plasma treatment.

[0060] Finally, as mentioned above, the method makes it possible to form a mould, the bottom of which is formed by a part of the upper surface 21 of the substrate, optionally including at least one recess 30 and possibly including an anti-reflection layer and / or an electrically conductive layer, and the sides of which are defined by resin side walls 41. The substrate 20 and the at least one recess 30 form part of the mould and in any case do not form part of the watch part to be manufactured in the future.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the at least one recess is produced by a material removal technique, in particular by machining, whereas according to another embodiment, the at least one recess or the side wall of the mold is obtained, completely or partially, by two-photon polymerization or grayscale photolithography or stereolithography techniques.

[0062] The invention also relates to a method for the manufacture of a watch component per se, in which a first stage Ph1 of the method consists in carrying out the method for the manufacture of a mould as described above. A second stage Ph2 of the method is based on the manufacture of the watch component per se, using said mould. An example of this second stage is described below.

[0063] The second stage Ph2 of the manufacturing method first comprises a step E5 consisting of filling all or part of the mould obtained from the first stage with the material of the watch part, called part blank 10, as shown in figures 9a and 9b. The step E5 consisting of filling the mould may comprise a step of electro-deposition, electroforming, electroplating, casting or thermoforming, or a step of filling the part blank by casting.

[0064] Thus, according to an advantageous embodiment, the filling step may be carried out by electroforming of a metallic material, in which case the mould must be manufactured at least partially from a conductive material so that it can act as a starting electrode in view of the future growth of the metallic material of the watch part in the mould, so that, if the substrate is not made of a conductive material, a conductive layer is added to the substrate in a first stage of the manufacture of the mould, as described above.

[0065] In a variant, the mould may be used for slip casting to obtain ceramic watch parts. According to another variant, composite materials or glassy alloys can be poured or moulded into the mould.

[0066] The method then comprises a step consisting of removing E6 (in other words demolding) the watch part 1 obtained in the preceding step from the mould, as shown in figures 10a and 10b. In the demolding step, the substrate 20 and the at least one recess 30 exhibit properties that make them suitable for demolding the watch part 1. In addition, the resin that forms part of the mould is dissolved. Said dissolution may be achieved using any means known to the person skilled in the art, such as chemical dissolution, deep reactive ion etching (DRIE) or laser ablation. In addition, optionally, the part may be removed from the substrate.

[0067] As a result of the above-described method, all surfaces 2 of the watch part 1 formed directly in contact with the mould according to the invention have a perfect final shape after demolding, without the need for additional operations. The invention thus makes it possible in a very simple way to produce watch parts 1 of complex shapes, which in particular correspond to recesses 30 on the substrate and / or to one or more inclined surfaces of the side walls of the mould. The watch part 1 comprises, at least locally, at least one inclined surface which is not perpendicular and not parallel to the other surfaces of the watch part, in particular to two mutually parallel main planes, or which is inclined with respect to the surface of the part formed by the particular mould bottom.

[0068] Optionally, a finishing step may be performed on the face 3 facing the bottom of the mould, which face is not directly formed by the mould obtained by the method according to the invention. Said finishing step may consist of polishing or grinding the facing face 3 of the watch part, for example to ensure its flatness. Additionally or alternatively, said finishing step may consist of modifying the colour or the tribological properties of at least part of the surface of the watch part by deposition of a coating formed by physical vapour deposition (PVD), chemical vapour deposition (CVD), atomic layer deposition (ALD) or pulsed laser deposition (PLD). It is noted that said finishing step is applied to the facing face 3 of the watch part, which is not in direct contact with the mould. For this reason, the finishing step may be carried out before or after the step E6 consisting of removing the watch part from the mould. As a variant, the finishing step, in particular the colouring step, may be applied to the whole of the watch part.

[0069] According to one embodiment, the material of the watch component is a metal or metal alloy, in particular based on nickel or gold or copper. According to another embodiment, the material of the component may be based on ceramic or on composite material, i.e. completely or partially composed of ceramic or composite material, advantageously at least 50% by weight of ceramic or composite material. Thus, the resulting watch component is mainly made of metal or metal alloy, for example based on nickel or gold or copper, or mainly made of ceramic or composite material.

[0070] The method for manufacturing a watch part described above is suitable for the manufacture of many different watch parts. By way of example, the watch parts may be external watch parts such as inlays or hands, or parts of the movement such as escape wheels, levers, springs, etc.

[0071] The invention also relates to the timepiece component itself. In particular, a major advantage of the invention is that it allows the production of timepiece components of complex shapes that could not be produced before.

[0072] In particular, the invention allows the manufacture of a watch part, preferably one that is manufactured in one piece, being mainly a one-piece part. The watch part may comprise a surface formed by the mould of the invention, comprising a first surface extending to the first face and a second surface inclined relative to the first surface, corresponding to one or more inclined faces of one or more recesses of the mould defined above, in particular domed and / or concave and / or convex and / or chamfered and / or comprising at least one sharp edge. Said inclined face may comprise at least one sharp edge, for example in the formation of a pattern of the "Clou de Paris" type, optionally with a polished or structured surface. The inclined face may take the form of a surface comprising a plurality of inclined portions, in particular including a profile exhibiting the shape of a ripple. The inclined face may also comprise sharp edges and / or chamfers and / or bevels and / or angles. Such an inclined face may exhibit a certain roughness.

[0073] According to a variant embodiment, the watch part may include one or more aesthetic or functional inserts. For this purpose, the manufacturing method may include an intermediate step consisting of placing at least one insert in the manufacturing mould, before the step of filling the mould with the part's material, followed by fixing the part's material to the at least one insert. Such an insert may be a decorative jewel or stone.

[0074] Moreover, advantageously, the watch part is manufactured as a single piece or as one piece, with the exception of any inserts. Alternatively, the watch part or watch may consist of at least two related separate parts, at least one of which results from the manufacturing method according to the invention.

[0075] The invention also relates to a timepiece comprising at least one timepiece part according to the invention.

[0076] The invention also relates to a mould for the manufacture of a watch part, characterised in that it comprises a substrate, at least part of whose upper surface forms the bottom of the mould, the mould being additionally at least partially bounded by a resin, in particular a photosensitive resin, deposited on the substrate and forming at least part of the side walls of the mould.

[0077] The resin may conform to an outer edge of the recess in the substrate to form at least one sidewall of the mold, and / or may extend from the top surface of the substrate to form at least one sidewall of the mold in and / or out of the recess. In all cases, the resin constitutes all or part of the sidewall of the mold. The top surface of the substrate, which forms part of the bottom of the mold, may be planar or non-planar, e.g., dome-shaped, and may or may not include at least one recess.

[0078] At least one sloping surface of a recess in the substrate may have a slope that forms an angle between 10 and 80 degrees with the upper surface of the substrate outside the recess, considered at the interface between the upper surface and the recess. The sloping surface may be rounded or may be formed by a number of planar facets, may have one or more sharp edges, and may be concave or convex, among others.

[0079] Thus, the invention achieves its desired objects and more generally provides the following advantages: The manufacturing method is simple to implement and low cost. - The manufacturing method makes it possible to obtain watch parts of complex shapes.

[0080] The invention will be described below in terms of the actual manufacture of some particular watch components selected as non-limiting examples.

[0081] In a first embodiment, the timepiece part is a timepiece face. The manufacturing method includes the steps according to the above-mentioned embodiment, which will be briefly described as follows.

[0082] In a preparatory step, the method comprises obtaining a ceramic substrate, the upper surface of which is non-planar but includes decorative features, for example a "Clou de Paris" pattern with polished chamfers. The invention allows for the addition of the decorative features and graduations to form a dial from said substrate. The substrate is made electrically conductive using PVD to deposit a thin metal coating on its upper surface. Next, an anti-reflective treatment is applied to the substrate using PVD to deposit a thin anti-reflective coating consisting of a bulk inorganic layer that reduces reflection of over 99.9% of the applied irradiating UV radiation. The resin sidewalls are then produced in three sub-steps. First, the entire surface of the substrate is coated with a photosensitive resin SU-8. It is irradiated perpendicular to the plane P1 through a mask, after which the resin is developed. Due to the non-planar surface of the substrate, the angle between the incident beam of irradiation and the resin is nowhere perpendicular. An anti-reflection layer prevents stray reflections.

[0083] The invention then carries out a step E4 consisting of removing the anti-reflective coating by means of oxygen plasma in order to expose the conductive metal coating of the openings of the resin mold, resulting in a mold partially delimited by said photosensitive resin, more particularly by the aforementioned resin side walls forming the sides of the mold, and by a part of at least one upper surface of the substrate (coated with a thin metal coating), forming the bottom of the mold, more particularly allowing the formation of the mold bottom including the decorative features.

[0084] The fifth step consists of filling E5 the mould produced above with gold, by electroplating. It is noted that such a deposition makes it possible to form the decorative features and the graduations of the dial. Finally, the method performs a step E6 consisting of removing the part from the mold by dissolving the resin by plasma attack, which may also remove the anti-reflective and / or conductive layers. The method finally performs a step consisting of using polishing to finish the surface of the decorative features and scales, completing the electroplating process.

[0085] The watch part produced is thus a dial made of a ceramic base (which in the method described above served as substrate and locally as mould bottom) containing decorative features and scales made of gold produced in the mould. In this particular embodiment, the substrate, part of which forms the bottom of the mould, will form part of the watch part.

[0086] According to a second embodiment, the timepiece part is a hand 50, comprising an end portion having a complex visible surface comprising several distinct inclined portions 52 in the form of three domed cap portions protruding from the visible upper surface of the hand relative to an adjacent domed upper surface 51, as shown in Figures 11 and 12. The three substantially spherical cap portions have respective axes of rotation A1, A2, A3 substantially perpendicular to the upper surface 51 of the hand 50.

[0087] The method for manufacturing the needle 50 includes the steps according to the above-mentioned embodiment, which are briefly described below.

[0088] 13 and 14 show more specifically the first step E1 of the method, which includes a sub-step consisting of forming a recess 30 in a substrate 20 consisting of a flat stainless steel plate or wafer. The upper surface 21 of the substrate 20 is planar before the recess is formed. Similarly, the lower surface 23 is also planar and parallel. The recess 30 is formed in two stages of electrochemical dissolution. The first dissolution stage first forms the dome-shaped surface of the needle 50 by forming a temporary recess 30t as shown in FIG. 13. Then, as shown in FIG. 14, three recesses 30a, 30b, 30c in the shape of the recess cap part are formed at the bottom of the previously obtained temporary recess 30t to complete the final shape of the recess 30. Said recess 30 corresponds to the complex shape of the end of the needle 50, which can be seen in particular in FIG. 12. It is noted that said recess 30 defines a plurality of inclined surfaces 31. The depth d of the recess is 50 μm.

[0089] A second step E2 of the method consists of depositing an anti-reflective layer 25 on the substrate 20. The anti-reflective layer 25 is formed of a layer of material known under the trade name AZ®-BARLi® II. The layer is deposited by means of a spin-coating method.

[0090] The third step E3 of the method is the formation of the sidewalls 41 of the mold made of resin 40. This step includes several substeps similar to those described above. First, the resin 40, which is a photosensitive resin SU-8, is coated on the entire surface of the substrate. Then, the resin is irradiated through a mask perpendicular to the top surface 21 of the substrate 20, after which the resin is developed. The anti-reflective coating prevents stray reflections resulting from the shape of the recesses. Note that in this embodiment, the sidewalls 41 are located inside the recesses 30. Once the resin has been irradiated and developed, the remaining part of the resin 40 and the visible substrate 20 define the mold.

[0091] The fourth step of the method consists of removing E4 the anti-reflective layer 25 in the openings of the resin, i.e. at the bottom of the mould, to expose the substrate 20 as shown in Figure 15. In this case, the anti-reflective layer is removed using an oxygen plasma treatment. A mould is obtained, at least partially bounded by said photosensitive resin, more particularly by the aforementioned resin side walls which form the sides of the mould, and by at least one part of the upper surface of the substrate, which forms the bottom of the mould.

[0092] A fifth step E5 of the method consists in producing needles 50 by filling the previously obtained mould by electroforming, as shown in Figure 16. As the substrate 20 is made of a conductive material, the electroforming method is able to start and continue growing in the conductive areas along the side walls 41 made of photosensitive resin. The needles 50 are for example made of nickel or gold.

[0093] The sixth step of the method consists of E6, the removal of the complex shaped needle from the mould. The resin is dissolved and the needle 50 is separated from the substrate. The bevel of the needle has a polished surface corresponding to the recess 30 (and to the recesses 30a, 30b, 30c of the recess 30) manufactured in the substrate 20, with dimensions and bevels that correspond closely to the required shape. The visible surface defined by the cavity of the recess 30 on the substrate is used directly at the end of this step E6, without any after-treatment, i.e. without reworking or tribo-finishing. The shape of this surface from the mould is not subjected to any cosmetic modifications.

[0094] The facing surface 53 of the needle is the result of the growth of electroplated material terminating. The facing surface 53 may be polished and conditioned before or after demolding.

[0095] The needle may, for example, have straight walls or may have chamfered side walls.

[0096] The watch part may then be colored using techniques known to those skilled in the art (ALD, PVD, PLD, pad printing, etc.).

[0097] According to a third embodiment, the timepiece part is an escape wheel 60 as shown in FIG. 17, and according to another variant embodiment of the manufacturing method, its shape, in particular its bevelled teeth, requires that the support has an angle and is rotated relative to the irradiation beam.

[0098] The manufacturing method consists of obtaining a substrate 20 made of a planar and polished stainless steel plate or wafer, the upper surface 21 of which, before machining, is planar and corresponds to the plane P1 defined above.

[0099] A second step E2 of the method consists of depositing an anti-reflective layer 25a on the substrate 20. The anti-reflective layer 25a has a thickness of 200 nanometers and is made of a material known under the trade name AZ®-BARLi®. The anti-reflective layer 25a formed makes it possible to completely attenuate the UV reflections on the substrate. The anti-reflective layer is also an electrical insulator.

[0100] The third step E3 is the formation of the side walls 41 of the resin mold. It comprises several photolithography sub-steps similar to those described above. First, a resin 40a, which is a photosensitive resin SU-8, is coated on the entire surface of the resin 20. The resin is irradiated through a mask in order to produce a sloping side wall at a first height of the gear, in particular at the height of the tip of the gear, by applying an angle α between the upper surface 21 of the substrate and the irradiation source (this angle is due to the orientation of the substrate). The fixture can be rotated (dynamic mode) with respect to the center of the future gear so that the same angle is present for each tooth. Since the tooth angle is greater than 38°, the whole assembly including the fixture and the substrate coated with SU-8 is immersed in glycerin during irradiation. The resin is then developed.

[0101] The anti-reflection layer 25b is applied by spin-coating to the substrate including the layer 25a and to the structure made of resin 40a. The resin sidewalls of the second height of the mould are formed in three sub-steps: The photosensitive resin SU-8 resin 40b is deposited on the entire surface covered by the layer 25b. The resin is irradiated through a mask to produce the second height of the gear mould by applying an angle of 90° between the plane P1 of the substrate 20 and the irradiating radiation. The anti-reflection layer 25b is necessary at this stage since the shape of the substrate is partly composed of sidewalls of the part made of resin 40a, which are inclined with respect to the irradiating radiation.

[0102] Depending on the angle of irradiation, the resin: - Generating stray radiation, reflective, or - Transparent, allowing incident radiation to reach the substrate and generate reflected radiation, which once again presents the risk of stray reflections when it reaches the boundary between the resin and the air; may be also possible. The above considerations mean that anti-reflective coatings are indeed necessary. Note that side walls that are upright over their entire height are directly generated in this step. The resin is developed. A detailed view of the result obtained at this stage is illustrated in FIG.

[0103] A fourth step of the method consists of removing E4 the anti-reflective layer in the resin openings, i.e. at the bottom of the mould, using an oxidizing plasma, in order to expose the metal substrate 20. In this case, the anti-reflective layer is removed using an oxidizing plasma treatment. A mould is thus obtained, at least partially bounded by said photosensitive resin, more particularly by the aforementioned resin side walls forming the side walls of the mould, and by a part of at least one upper surface of the substrate forming the bottom of the mould.

[0104] A fifth step E5 of the method consists in producing an escape wheel by filling the mould obtained above by electroforming, as shown in figure 19. Advantageously, an amorphous paramagnetic alloy based on nickel and phosphorus is used. The growth process is isotropic, so that the filling of the mould starts from the conductive upper surface of the plate or wafer and continues with a broad growth on the inclined side walls, due to the chamfers made in the mould.

[0105] The sixth step of the method consists of removing the escape wheel 60 E6 by dissolving the resin and removing it from the substrate.

[0106] The back surface of the gear resulting from the completion of the electroplated material growth is finished and polished to the required level before or after demolding.

[0107] The resulting part is an escape wheel 60, which exhibits a partially beveled flank at the teeth 61. The flank does not require any mechanical cosmetic modification, due to the good resolution of the beveled plastic sidewalls of the mold in which the escape wheel is manufactured. It also matches the face of the gear "as it comes" from the substrate, i.e. the face that was in contact with the substrate 20 until the demolding step.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing a mold for manufacturing a watch part, comprising: obtaining (E1) at least one substrate (20, 20') comprising a top surface (21); a step (E2) of applying a treatment having an anti-reflection effect to all or part of the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20'), then depositing (E31) a layer of photosensitive resin (40) on said upper surface of said substrate (20, 20'), a step (E32) of irradiating the photosensitive resin (40) with radiation (45) according to a predetermined pattern, a step (E33) of developing the photosensitive resin (40); Including, forming a mold at least partially bounded by the photosensitive resin (40) and a portion of the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20'); Mold manufacturing method.

2. the step of irradiating (E32) the photosensitive resin (40) uses the irradiation radiation (45) applied at a non-normal angle of incidence to the top surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20') to which a treatment having an anti-reflection effect has been applied in at least one area of the substrate, and / or the step of irradiating (E32) the photosensitive resin (40) with the irradiation radiation (45) is performed at an angle of incidence of the irradiation radiation relative to the top surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20') that is variable over time, and / or at a position of the irradiation radiation relative to the top surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20') that is variable over time, The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 1 .

3. The step of applying the treatment having the anti-reflection effect (E2) comprises depositing the anti-reflection layer (25) on the substrate (20, 20') by coating or spin-coating or spray-coating or dip-coating or chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or physical vapor deposition (PVD) or atomic layer deposition (ALD) or pulsed laser deposition (PLD), The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 1 .

4. the step of irradiating (E32) the photosensitive resin (40) with the irradiation radiation (45) is carried out in a medium having a refractive index different from that of air in order to increase the angle of incidence of the irradiation on the resin with respect to the top surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20') compared to the same configuration in air, The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 1 .

5. the substrate (20, 20'), the resin (40) and the mask (5) for irradiating the resin (40) are placed in a container containing the medium having a refractive index different from that of air; The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 4.

6. The method further comprises, after the step of developing the photosensitive resin (E33) following the irradiation (E32) with the radiation, a step (E4) of partial or complete removal of the anti-reflection layer (25), The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 1 .

7. the substrate (20, 20') has the shape of a plate or wafer made of a material selected from the group consisting of metal, silicon, glass, ceramic, polymer, and composite material; The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 1 .

8. The step (E1) of obtaining the substrate (20, 20') comprises, before carrying out the step (E2) of applying the treatment having the anti-reflection effect to all or a part of the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20') so that the treatment having the anti-reflection effect is performed on at least a part of the inclined surface (31) of the recess (30, 30'), creating the recess (30, 30') starting from the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20'), the recess (30, 30') being delimited by at least one inclined surface (31) inclined with respect to a plane (P1) in which the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20') other than the recess (30, 30') extends; The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 1 .

9. the step of creating the recess (30, 30') forms the at least one inclined surface (31) having an inclination that forms an angle in the range of 10 to 80 degrees with respect to the upper surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20'), measured at the interface (4) between the recess (30, 30') and the upper surface (21), except within the recess; The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 8.

10. The step of creating the recesses (30, 30') uses two-photon polymerization, stereolithography, or grayscale photolithography techniques. The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 8.

11. manufacturing a mold according to the method of claim 1; forming a watch part (1), including a step (E5) of filling all or part of the mould with the part material (10); A manufacturing method for a watch part (1).

12. The step of filling (E5) the mold comprises filling the blank (10) of the part by electro-deposition, electroforming, electroplating, slip casting or thermoforming or by casting; The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 11.

13. and a step (E6) of removing the watch component (1) obtained in the step (E5) of filling the mold from all or part of the mold. The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 11.

14. a finishing step of polishing or grinding the surface (3) of the watch part (1) that does not come into contact with the mold to ensure its flatness, The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 11.

15. the material (10) of the component is selected from the group consisting of metals, metal alloys, ceramics, and composite materials; The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 11.

16. The watch part is a watch decorative part or a movement part. The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 11.

17. The step of irradiating (E32) the photosensitive resin (40) uses the irradiation radiation (45) applied to at least one area of the substrate at an angle of incidence that forms an angle in the range of 10 to 80 degrees with respect to the top surface (21) of the substrate (20, 20') within said area. The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 2 .

18. The step of creating the recess (30, 30') includes forming the at least one inclined surface (31) that is rounded, or that is composed of multiple chamfers, or that includes at least one edge, and / or that is concave or convex in shape. The method for manufacturing a mold according to claim 9.

19. The method of claim 19, comprising the step of modifying the color or tribological properties of at least a part of said surface of said watch part (1) by depositing a coating using a physical vapor deposition (PVD), chemical vapor deposition (CVD), atomic layer deposition (ALD) or pulsed laser deposition (PLD) process. The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 14.

20. The material (10) of the component is selected from the group consisting of nickel-based metal alloys, gold-based metal alloys, and copper-based metal alloys. The method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 15.

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