New cosmetic or dermatological use of Gentiana crassicaulis extract

Abstract

The present invention relates to the novel cosmetic use of Gentiana crassicaulis extract and / or a composition containing the same for the cosmetic treatment and / or cosmetic care of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or vulnerable, and / or fragile, and / or dry, and / or atopic-prone skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular for preventing and / or reducing one or more of the unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular for calming healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or reducing and / or preventing its hypersensitivity, and / or increasing and / or maintaining its moisturization, in particular for improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes. The present invention also relates to the novel use of Gentiana crassicaulis extract and / or a composition containing the same for the dermatological treatment of skin and / or mucous membranes with a damaged skin and / or mucous membrane barrier.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis for preventing and / or reducing one or more of the unaesthetic and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucosa with weakened skin and / or mucosa barriers, and also relates to the dermatological treatment of skin and / or mucosa with damaged skin and / or mucosa barriers.

Background Art

[0002] Sensitive skin is extremely common, and according to several epidemiological studies, more than half of the population complains of having sensitive skin. Sensitive skin occurs when the skin barrier of people with normal skin weakens or is damaged. When the skin barrier is significantly damaged, reactive skin, intolerant skin, allergic skin, atopic skin, irritated skin, etc., or dryness, rosacea, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, ichthyosis, especially pathological scaling, such as scaling known as skin peeling syndrome, irritation or even actual pathological conditions can be seen as symptoms related to diabetes, herpes zoster, fibromyalgia and paralysis of the extremities.

[0003] Various external stimuli or substances include environmental factors (ultraviolet irradiation, heat, cold or temperature changes, wind, dry air, environmental pollution), lifestyle factors (air conditioning, food, alcohol consumption, clothing), chemical substances (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, soap, shampoo, heavy metals, detergents, fragrances, preservatives, alcohols, pH, compounds contained in dermatological drugs such as AHA or retinoic acid contained in cosmetic treatments), or other sensitizing substances or / and aggressive conditions, especially sweat and hair removal, shaving, friction and furthermore water, specifically mechanical attacks such as hard water, and / or emotional, genetic factors, hormonal status and internal factors such as stress, etc., which can cause sensitive skin or strengthen sensitive skin.

[0004] In particular, due to the progress of environmental pollution, climate change, and the increasing complexity of materials used in topical agents and clothing, the number of people complaining of sensitive skin is increasing.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need to identify a solution for preventing and / or reducing one or more aesthetically unpleasing and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from healthy skin and / or mucous membranes that are particularly sensitive, sensitized, vulnerable to injury, weakened, dry, and / or prone to atopy, in order to address the hypersensitivity of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0006] Particularly surprisingly, the Applicant has discovered that an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis has the property of preventing and / or reducing one or more aesthetically unpleasing and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from healthy skin and / or mucous membranes that are sensitive and / or sensitized and / or vulnerable to injury and / or weakened and / or dry and / or prone to atopy. Extremely unexpectedly, this extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is particularly useful for calming healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or reducing and / or preventing the hypersensitivity of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the moisturization of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes. Specifically, the Applicant has discovered that the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis advantageously enables the improvement and / or maintenance of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0007] The extract according to the present invention also has the advantage of being a component that can be easily formulated and can be easily manufactured on an industrial scale. It is a topically acceptable active ingredient for the skin and / or mucous membranes that exhibits no allergic risk.

[0008] Gentiana crassicaulis is a perennial herb native to Qinghai Province on the Tibetan Plateau and is also widely found in Asia, America, and Oceania. It grows in mountainous areas, wastelands, pastures, forest margins, and forests at altitudes of 2,100 to 4,500 meters.

[0009] This is part of the medicinal plant group and has long been widely referred to in terms of Gentiana macrophylla, which is generally known as "Qin Jiao" in Chinese, belonging to the Gentianaceae family and the Gentiana (G.) genus. Therefore, "Qin Jiao" mainly means a group of plants that have long been unrelated, including G. macrophylla Pallas, G. straminea Maximowicz, G. dahurica Fischer, and G. crassicaulis Duthie ex. Burkill. Regarding the use of the plant Qin Jiao, the Chinese Pharmacopoeia describes its use in the treatment of rheumatism, joint pain, stroke, jaundice, and diabetes, and in Tibetan medicine, its use in the treatment of tonsillitis and urticaria is described. Pharmacological studies have also shown that the plant Qin Jiao has anti-inflammatory activity, antioxidant activity, liver protection, heart protection, and neuroprotection activities (Zhang X et al.; Botany, traditional use, phytochemistry, pharmacology, quality control, and authentication of Radix Gentianae Macrophyllae - A traditional medicine: A review; Phytomedicine, 2018, 46, 142 - 163).

[0010] Patent applications have already been filed regarding the cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis. Thus, Chinese Patent Application Publication No. 106137812 describes the use of an extract of Gentiana macrophylla obtained through a special extraction process as an active agent for inhibiting tyrosinase and elastase and as an antioxidant in a cosmetic composition.

[0011] Thus, as far as the applicant knows, there is no description of the cosmetic topical use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis as an active ingredient for the cosmetic treatment and / or cosmetic care of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dried, and / or atopy-prone skin and / or mucous membranes, especially for sensitive skin, particularly for preventing and / or reducing one or more unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes. In addition, it was not previously known that an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is particularly useful for calming healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or reducing and / or preventing the hypersensitivity of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the moisturization of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes. It was not previously known that an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is particularly useful for improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0012] Similarly, the use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis for the dermatological treatment of skin and / or mucous membranes with a damaged skin and / or mucous membrane barrier, specifically reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and / or inflamed skin and / or mucous membranes, was not previously known. Summary of the Invention

Means for Solving the Problem

[0013] The first subject of the present invention is for the cosmetic treatment and / or care of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular for preventing and / or reducing one or more unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes with weakened skin and / or mucous membrane barriers. This relates to healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected particularly from sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dry, and / or atopy-prone skin and / or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin. Such unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of such healthy skin and / or mucous membranes are preferably selected from stinging, itching, dryness, heat or fever sensation, tension, tingling, stiffness, redness and / or a mixture of these signs.

[0014] According to a detailed embodiment, the subject of the present invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis for calming healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or reducing and / or preventing the hypersensitivity of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or increasing and / or maintaining the moisturization of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, wherein the healthy skin and / or mucous membranes are selected particularly from sensitive skin, and / or sensitized skin, and / or easily damaged skin, and / or weakened skin, and / or dry skin, and / or atopy-prone skin, preferably sensitive skin, and is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic use.

[0015] The extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention can also be used to improve and / or maintain the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0016] The subject matter of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, which is for at least one site of healthy skin and / or mucous membrane selected from skin and / or mucous membrane that is particularly sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dried, and / or prone to atopy. It is for the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same for the cosmetic treatment and / or care of the said healthy skin and / or mucous membrane, specifically sensitive skin. It is characterized by including topical application for preventing and / or reducing one or more unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of the said healthy skin and / or mucous membrane, preferably selected from stinging pain, itching, dryness, heat or fever sensation, tension, tingling, stiffness, redness and / or a mixture of these signs. The subject matter of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, which is for at least one site of healthy skin and / or mucous membrane selected from skin and / or mucous membrane that is particularly sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dried, and / or prone to atopy. It is for the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same for soothing the said healthy skin and / or mucous membrane, and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of the said healthy skin and / or mucous membrane, and / or reducing and / or preventing the hypersensitivity of the said healthy skin and / or mucous membrane, and / or increasing and / or maintaining the moisturization of the said healthy skin and / or mucous membrane. It is characterized by including topical application. The subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic care method, which is for at least one site of healthy skin and / or mucous membrane selected from skin and / or mucous membrane that is particularly sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dried, and / or prone to atopy. It is for the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same for improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of the said healthy skin and / or mucous membrane. It is characterized by including topical application.

[0017] The subject matter of the present invention relates to swelling of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such swelling, and / or to dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such dysfunction, and / or to a marked decrease in the moisturization of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes, wherein the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes are in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and / or swollen skin and / or mucous membranes, and the diseased state is, for example, xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, such as scaling known as skin peeling syndrome, swelling or eczema, and is also a dermatological composition for topical use in treating, and / or preventing, and / or reducing the occurrence of the diseased state. Furthermore, the subject matter of the present invention is also a dermatological composition for topical use in treating, and / or preventing, and / or reducing changes in the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes associated with certain diseased states such as diabetes, herpes zoster, fibromyalgia and paralysis of the extremities. Preferably, the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes are not inflamed.

[0018] According to a particular embodiment, the subject matter of the present invention is also a dermatological composition comprising an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or containing the same for use in reducing and / or preventing swelling of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic, swollen skin and / or mucous membranes associated with dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier.

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic use" means a non-medical use, i.e., not intended for therapeutic use, or not intended for the prevention and / or treatment of skin and / or mucous membranes recognized as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as a dermatologist, but rather for the "healthy" parts of the body, in particular the "healthy" parts of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or for application thereto.

[0020] The term "skin" means any part of the skin of the face, advantageously any part of the skin of any part of the face, including the body and / or the scalp.

[0021] According to the present invention, the term "mucous membrane" means the nasal mucosa, the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa, the anal mucosa and the oral, lip and / or gum mucosa, preferably the ocular mucosa, and / or the oral cavity, and / or the lips, and / or the nasal mucosa.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "healthy skin and / or mucous membrane" means a site of skin and / or mucous membrane to which the extract or composition according to the present invention is applied and which has been declared "non-pathological" by a dermatologist, i.e., not associated with redness of pathological skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such redness, and / or not associated with dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of pathological skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such dysfunction, and / or not associated with a marked decrease in the moisturization of pathological skin and / or mucous membranes, such as pathological conditions, infections, scars, diseases, inflammations or skin pathologies, such as bacterial, fungal, insect and / or other parasite infections, in particular mite infections, candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, xerosis, rosacea, redness, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, such as scaling known as skin peeling syndrome, acne or dermatitis, in particular atopic dermatitis, or urticaria, in particular contact dermatitis, or wounds or ulcers, or burns and / or other skin diseases or certain pathological conditions such as diabetes, herpes zoster, fibromyalgia and paralysis of the extremities, without dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of pathological skin and / or mucous membranes associated with such pathological conditions. Preferably, healthy skin and / or mucous membranes are not inflamed and / or not inflammatory. Thus, this is not reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and / or reddened skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0023] According to an advantageous aspect of the invention, healthy skin and / or mucous membranes are characterized in that they have a weakened skin and / or mucous membrane barrier. However, advantageously, this barrier is not impaired.

[0024] The term "sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes" means skin and / or mucous membranes characterized by a sensory perception in response to stimuli, which will be characterized by one or more unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs. Thus, sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes can be estimated by the subject himself using subjective skin sensations, or by a dermatologist using objective skin reactions. These are essentially skin and / or mucous membranes with extremely high intolerance to aggressive agents / conditions.

[0025] External stimuli or substances that induce or exacerbate the unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes are, for example, environmental / climatic factors (ultraviolet radiation, heat, cold or temperature changes, wind, dry air, environmental pollution), lifestyle factors (air conditioning, food, alcohol, clothing), chemical substances (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, soap, shampoo, heavy metals, detergents, fragrances, preservatives, alcohols, pH, compounds contained in skin science drugs such as AHA or compounds contained in retinoic acid, etc. in beauty treatments) or other sensitizing substances, aggressive conditions including sweat, as well as mechanical attacks such as hair removal, shaving, friction and further water, in particular hard water, and / or other internal factors such as emotions, genetic predisposition, hormonal state (e.g., menstruation) and stress. Sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes are non-pathological skin and / or mucous membranes, unlike allergic skin.

[0026] In a preferred aspect, external stimuli or substances that induce or exacerbate the unaesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes do not include fungi, bacteria or further insects or other parasites such as mites.

[0027] Muscle and / or mucosal hypersensitivity is multifactorial and generally reflects a weakening of the barrier function. Usually, the stratum corneum acts as a barrier to maintain the water content and prevent the invasion of harmful chemicals and microorganisms. When the skin and / or mucosal barrier weakens, substances and / or microorganisms can invade, causing aesthetically unpleasing, uncomfortable, and / or unpleasant symptoms typical of sensitive skin and / or mucosa. As it weakens, the transepidermal water loss generally increases. Therefore, it is also important to maintain the barrier function of the stratum corneum to maintain the skin's water content and thus avoid the vicious cycle of skin dryness and skin hypersensitivity.

[0028] Nevertheless, muscle and / or mucosa can react to aggressive agents and / or conditions with aesthetically unpleasing, and / or uncomfortable, and / or unpleasant signs. Aesthetically unpleasing and uncomfortable signs can generalize throughout the body, but in most cases, they can be seen in a sufficiently limited location, such as the scalp, face, subcutaneous fat, buttocks of infants, etc. Therefore, this can be a problem of the site of sensitive skin and / or mucosa.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic treatment and / or care of healthy muscle and / or mucosa" means preventing, and / or reducing, and / or removing the perception of aesthetically unpleasing, and / or uncomfortable, and / or unpleasant signs of sensitive muscle, and / or sensitized muscle, and / or easily damaged muscle, and / or weakened muscle, and / or dry muscle, and / or muscle prone to atopy, preferably sensitive muscle.

[0030] The term "aesthetically unpleasing, and / or uncomfortable, and / or unpleasant signs" means subjective and preferably unpleasant sensations of skin discomfort such as a tingling sensation, itching, dryness, heat or fever, tension, tingling, stiffness, redness, preferably stinging, dryness, heat or fever, tension, tingling or stiffness, etc. in response to a stimulus that normally does not cause such signs.

[0031] These signs have no association with inflammation.

[0032] Ugly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable signs are those of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive, sensitized, vulnerable, weakened, dry, and / or atopic-prone skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0033] The term "sensitized skin and / or mucous membranes" means healthy skin and / or mucous membranes that have become temporarily sensitive, and thus are not themselves diseased, but have a weakened barrier function.

[0034] The term "vulnerable or weakened skin and / or mucous membranes (i.e., skin or mucous membranes that are transiently more vulnerable)" refers to healthy skin and / or mucous membranes with a weakened barrier function. This can be associated with an individual's condition and / or can be age-related. For example, the elderly and infants have more vulnerable skin. This condition can also be caused by chemical or physical attacks (exfoliation, friction, cuts).

[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the skin and / or mucous membranes are not sensitized, or made sensitive, or made vulnerable, or weakened by fungi, bacteria or further other parasites such as insects, for example mites.

[0036] The term "dry skin and / or mucous membranes" means skin and / or mucous membranes characterized by firmness covering the entire face and body due to a weakened skin and / or mucous membrane barrier. Thin, fine-textured, reddened skin and / or mucous membranes lack water and lipids and need to be moisturized.

[0037] The term "skin and / or mucosa prone to atopy" means healthy skin and / or mucosa that is extremely vulnerable and / or weakened, with a genetic predisposition to evolve towards a pathological state of atopic dermatitis under the effects of multiple endogenous and exogenous factors, due to a weakened barrier function and increased permeability. Thus, the property of "skin and / or mucosa prone to atopy" can be estimated subjectively by the subject using skin sensations, or objectively by a dermatologist using skin reactions.

[0038] Ugly, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of sensitive, vulnerable, and / or weakened, dry, and / or atopy-prone skin and / or mucosa are the same as in the case of sensitive skin and / or mucosa, and it is considered that these signs and / or the state of the skin and / or mucosa have nothing to do with the prevention and / or treatment of pathological conditions.

[0039] Ugly, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucosa can be generalized throughout the body, and / or the entire face, and / or the entire scalp. However, in most cases, they are in well-defined locations, such as the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin), external ear canal, chin, and / or face including the scalp, as well as the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, upper abdomen, instep, neck, arms, torso, back, waist, buttocks, waist, groin, mucosa, such as the lips, mouth, eyes, or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to contaminants, substances, and / or sensitizing substances such as cosmetics or soap, such as around the eyes or lips, areas exposed to temperature fluctuations, and / or areas of emotional expression, such as the cheeks, instep, hands, and / or further shaving areas, and / or macerated areas such as the buttocks of infants, wrinkled areas such as the armpits, the back of the elbows, the back of the knees, the buttocks, groin, neck, and / or areas that have been overly cleansed.

[0040] The term "weakened skin and / or mucosal barrier" means a temporary or constitutional imbalance of the barrier function represented by a decrease in homeostasis, and is not associated with, caused by, or the cause of a pathological condition. When the barrier function thus decreases, dehydration can be promoted by an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and the skin is exposed to the risk of invasion by undesirable agents. This weakened state of the barrier can be associated with an individual's condition and / or can be age-related. Thus, for example, the elderly and infants have a weakened skin and / or mucosal barrier. This state can also be caused by chemical or physical attacks (exfoliation, friction, cuts).

[0041] The term "soothing healthy skin and / or mucosa" means preventing and / or reducing one or more of the aesthetically unpleasing, and / or uncomfortable, and / or unpleasant symptoms of healthy skin and / or mucosa by acting to strengthen the weakened skin and / or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and / or mucosa.

[0042] The term "increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and / or mucosa" means promoting, and / or increasing, and / or maintaining the moisturization of healthy skin and / or mucosa, particularly by acting to improve, and / or maintain, and / or strengthen the skin and / or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and / or mucosa.

[0043] The term "reducing and / or preventing the hypersensitivity of healthy skin and / or mucosa" means improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and / or mucosa, and thus preventing and / or reducing one or more of the aesthetically unpleasing, and / or uncomfortable, and / or unpleasant symptoms of healthy skin and / or mucosa, particularly sensitive skin, and / or sensitized skin, and / or easily damaged skin, and / or weakened skin, and / or dry skin, and / or skin prone to atopy.

[0044] The term "preventing and / or reducing one or more unaesthetic and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes" means preventing, and / or reducing, and / or removing subjective or actual, undesirable skin and / or mucous membrane sensations and / or perceptions and / or visible degrees of unaesthetic and / or unpleasant and / or undesirable signs such as stinging, itching, dryness, heat or a feeling of fever, tension, tingling, stiffness, redness, preferably tingling, dryness, heat or a feeling of fever, tension, tingling or stiffness.

[0045] The term "increasing and / or maintaining moisturization" means increasing and / or maintaining the water content of the stratum corneum even after it has been reduced by the use of surfactants, in particular SLS, especially by its action on the skin barrier.

[0046] The moisturization of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes can be measured by techniques known to those skilled in the art, in particular, for example, using a corneometer in vivo. This in vivo measurement method consists of measuring the variation of the dielectric constant. Water is the substance with the highest dielectric constant in the skin. When the water content changes, the capacitance value of the skin also changes, so the water content of the skin surface can be analyzed by measuring the capacitance value of the skin.

[0047] Advantageously, the measurement of the increase in moisturization is carried out, preferably, on a population of men or women presenting itching and / or stiffness and / or a feeling of heat on the face, by applying, by analogy, i.e., under the conditions described in Example 2, a formulation containing an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis prepared as in Example 1.a, to the outside of any rash caused by an occlusive patch.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention is an amount effective to increase and / or maintain the moisturization of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes when the extract, particularly the extract in the form of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, increases the skin moisturization after dehydration induction by an SLS patch by at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, as early as 4 hours after application, compared to the skin moisturization detected before application.

[0049] The term "improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier" means strengthening and / or maintaining the function of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier by an action of reducing and / or decreasing the transepidermal water loss amount, and / or accelerating and / or improving the strengthening of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier after it has been weakened due to the action of a surfactant.

[0050] The transepidermal water loss amount can be measured using techniques known to those skilled in the art, particularly in vivo, for example using a Tewameter. This in vivo measurement method consists of measuring the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the dispersive loss of water from the stratum corneum close to the epidermis (within a radius of about 1 cm), and by measuring the amount of water evaporated through the epidermis, the water loss from the skin surface is directly determined. The lower the value, the less the transepidermal water loss amount, and thus the better the skin barrier function.

[0051] Advantageously, the measurement of the decrease in the transepidermal water loss amount is carried out by applying, to a group of men or women who experience itching and / or stiffness and / or a feeling of heat on the face, preferably a preparation containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis prepared as in Example 1.a, under the conditions described in Example 2, by analogy, that is, by applying it to the outside of any rash caused by an occlusive patch.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention is an effective amount for improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes when the extract, particularly the extract in the form of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, reduces the SLS patch-induced TEWL on the skin surface by at least 10%, preferably at least 14%, compared to the TEWL detected before application, as early as 4 hours after application.

[0053] The extract of Gentiana crassicaulis can be any part of the plant, such as the aerial part including roots and / or leaves, flowers and / or stems. Advantageously, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is an extract of roots.

[0054] According to one embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is an extract containing loganic acid and / or one or more of its derivatives. Preferably, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis has a loganic acid content of 0.1% (w / w) or more, more preferably 0.5% (w / w) or more, based on the total solid content of the extract.

[0055] The term "loganic acid" means an iridoid glycoside having the formula C 16 H 24 O 10 .

[0056] The term "loganic acid derivative" means a salt, carboxylate, acid chloride, acid anhydride, ester or amide obtained from loganic acid.

[0057] The extract according to the present invention is obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art selected from decoction, maceration, extrusion, extraction under subcritical conditions, ultrasonic-assisted extraction, with or without grinding such as ultrasonic grinding, or using a blender. Advantageously, the extract is obtained by maceration, and more advantageously by maceration with stirring.

[0058] The term "extraction under subcritical conditions" means extraction in the presence of water under temperature conditions higher than 100 °C and pressure conditions of 22.1 MPa (221 bar) or less, where the water remains in a liquid state, but has a lower viscosity and surface tension and a higher dielectric constant compared to water at room temperature.

[0059] The extraction can be carried out using dry or fresh plant material, advantageously dry plant material, in an amount of 1% to 90% by weight, advantageously 5% to 50%, and most advantageously 10% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the plant material and the extraction solvent.

[0060] The extraction can be carried out at a temperature in the range of 4 °C to 300 °C, including room temperature, i.e., about 20 °C. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature in the range of 20 °C to 150 °C, preferably 20 °C to 80 °C.

[0061] The extraction can be carried out over a period of several seconds to 24 hours, preferably 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably 5 minutes to 5 hours, and even more preferably 30 minutes to 3 hours.

[0062] The extraction can be repeated as many times as necessary, under the same or different conditions as the first extraction. Preferably, the extraction is repeated once, under the same conditions as the first extraction.

[0063] The solvent can be selected from water or a mixture of solvents, preferably polar protic solvents. This is advantageously water, alcohol, glycol, polyol, water / alcohol, a 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w) water / glycol or water / polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol, etc.), preferably a water / alcohol solvent mixture, more preferably water / ethanol, advantageously pure ethanol as the sole solvent, i.e., at least 95% ethanol (v / v), preferably at least 99% ethanol (v / v).

[0064] Specifically, the extract is obtained by aqueous-alcohol extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by aqueous-alcohol extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an alcoholic, preferably ethanolic, solution containing more than 20% by weight, advantageously at least 30% by weight, of alcohol, preferably ethanol, based on the total weight of the solution.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration in a water / ethanol solvent mixture.

[0066] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration in pure ethanol as the sole solvent, i.e., at least 95% ethanol (v / v), preferably at least 99% ethanol (v / v).

[0067] According to a preferred embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is used as it is, specifically in the form of the active ingredient. The extract according to the present invention can be in a dry form, i.e., in powder form. Advantageously, this will be obtained, for example, according to the protocol as described in Example 1.b.

[0068] According to another preferred embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, i.e., preferably in powder form in combination with maltodextrin, where the extract content is preferably 1% - 99% (w / w) by weight, more preferably 5% - 60% (w / w) by weight, advantageously 20% - 60% (w / w) by weight, and even more advantageously 30% - 50% (w / w) by weight, based on the total weight of the powder containing both the extract and maltodextrin. Advantageously, this will be obtained, for example, according to the protocol as described in Example 1.a.

[0069] According to a preferred alternative embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention can be in the form of an active ingredient in liquid form and / or diluted in a solvent, where the extract content is preferably 0.1% - 99% (w / w), more preferably 0.1% - 50% (w / w), advantageously 0.1% - 20% (w / w), and even more advantageously 1% - 10% (w / w), based on the total weight of the liquid containing the extract and the solvent. Preferably, this solvent contains less than 50% (w / w) water, and even more preferably less than 40% (w / w) water. Most preferably, this solvent is a water - glycol or water - glycerol solvent. Advantageously, this will be obtained, for example, according to the protocol as described in Example 1.c and / or 1.d.

[0070] According to the present invention, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention can be used alone in the form of an active ingredient and / or can be used in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.

[0071] In an advantageous embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention is not used in combination with Rhizoma typhonii, and / or Notopterygium, and / or the root of Divaricate saposhnikovia, and / or the root of Angelica sinensis and / or Cnidium officinale, and / or Radix paeoniae rubra, and / or Scolopendra, and / or Ligusticum wallichii, and / or Ramulus Cinnamomi, and / or Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch., and / or Rhizoma arisaematis, and / or cholamine, or is not used in a composition containing the same.

[0072] In another advantageous embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention is intended to be or can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition that also includes at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient for topical administration to healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0073] Thus, advantageously, the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0074] Alternatively, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention can be in any of the conventional topical application forms.

[0075] The term "cosmetic ingredient" means one or more plant extracts and / or one or more of their natural or synthetic molecules and / or mixtures intended for cosmetic applications. Cosmetic ingredients are defined in particular by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).

[0076] The term "cosmetic composition" refers to a non-therapeutic composition, i.e., a composition not intended for therapeutic use, or not intended for the prevention and / or treatment of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes recognized as such by an expert in the field, such as a dermatologist, but rather for the "healthy" parts of the body, specifically the "healthy" parts of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or is locally applied thereto, and also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical route" means the direct topical application and / or spraying of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a composition containing the same onto the surface of the skin and / or mucous membrane site to be treated. Thus, the composition may be applied topically to specific parts of the body, preferably to the face (including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples), the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external auditory canal, the chin and / or the scalp, and also to the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, upper abdomen, cuffs, neck, arms, torso, back, waist, buttocks, waist, groin, mucous membranes such as the lips, mouth, eyes or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to contaminants and / or sensitizing substances such as cosmetics or soaps, such as around the eyes or lips, areas exposed to temperature fluctuations and / or areas of emotional expression, such as the cheeks, cuffs, hands and / or also shaved areas and / or macerated areas such as the buttocks of infants, wrinkled areas such as the armpits, the back of the elbows, the back of the knees, the buttocks, the groin, the neck and / or areas that have been overly cleaned, selected from.

[0078] According to one embodiment, the use of the extract and / or the composition containing the same according to the present invention is, in particular, for all or part of the human body, face, and / or scalp, preferably the face (including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples), the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin), the external auditory canal, the chin and / or scalp, and also the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, upper abdomen, nape of the neck, neck, arms, torso, back, waist, buttocks, waist, groin, mucosa, such as the lips, oral cavity, eye or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to contaminants and / or sensitizing substances such as cosmetics or soap, such as around the eyes or lips, areas exposed to temperature fluctuations and / or emotional expression areas, such as the cheeks, nape of the neck, hands and / or further shaving areas and / or macerated areas such as the buttocks of infants, wrinkled areas such as the armpits, the back of the elbows, the back of the knees, the buttocks, groin, neck and / or areas that have been overly cleaned, and is a topical use on specific parts of the body selected therefrom.

[0079] Advantageously, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or the composition containing the same is intended to be topically applied to specific parts of the body selected from the facial skin including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin), the external auditory canal, the chin and / or scalp, and / or the neck and / or the nape of the neck.

[0080] The cosmetic composition or extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, optionally, can be in any form suitable for conventional topical application or oral administration, particularly topical administration, such as liquid, solid, or even pressurized liquid forms. These can be, in particular, aqueous or oily solutions, creams, aqueous gels or oily gels, especially shower gels, shampoos, emulsions, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, especially oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone-based emulsions, serums, lotions, in the form of jars or tubes, in particular, and can be formulated for cosmetic use, especially in the form of liquid, paste or anhydrous products which are preferably semi-solid, such as in stick form, especially stick form or powder form. Specifically, the composition can be a serum, lotion, cream, emulsion, ointment, paste, foam, microemulsion, hydrogel, shower gel, aerosol, mask, patch, stick, or cosmetic powder, preferably in the form of a cream or lotion.

[0081] In a preferred embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is a cosmetic composition, and the extract is present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration of 1×10 -4 % to 10% (w / w) based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 1×10 -3 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 1×10 -3 % to 3% (w / w), more preferably 0.01% to 3% (w / w) based on the weight, and even more preferably 0.01% to 1% (w / w) based on the weight, and the composition also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable excipient" means a compound and / or solvent that is locally acceptable, i.e., does not induce an allergic reaction upon contact with the skin and / or mucous membranes, including the human scalp, and is not chemically toxic, unstable or incompatible.

[0083] The composition according to the present invention may optionally contain any suitable solvent and / or any suitable medium and / or any suitable excipient, in combination with other than the compound of interest, if desired.

[0084] As a result, for these compositions, the excipient contains at least one compound selected from the group consisting of, for example, preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, humectants, thickeners, modifiers, matting agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture modifiers, brighteners, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, colorants, fragrances, and sunscreens.These excipients are preferably selected from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, cellulose polymers and derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, jojoba oil and its derivatives, fat-soluble / water-soluble esters, betaines, amine oxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines and parabens, more preferably butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerol, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearic acid, capric / caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral wax and mineral oil, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol diperargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, glycerides from hydrogenated palm kernel oil, glycerides from hydrogenated palm oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline and mixtures thereof.

[0085] In a particularly advantageous manner, the extract according to the invention is used sequentially or simultaneously with sodium lauryl sulfate, especially in a cosmetic composition or a detergent composition containing it. This has the advantage of reducing its harmful effects on the skin and / or mucosal barrier.

[0086] Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art to improve the health and / or appearance of the skin (including the scalp) and / or mucous membranes. Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic compositions, dietary supplement compositions or dermatological compositions to achieve the best effects. Moreover, these compounds can have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. Such combinations are also encompassed by the present invention. CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 2016) describes various cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, in particular those suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes, such as fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, etc. (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, mintsak distillate), anti-acne agents, anticoagulants, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffers, swelling agents, chelating agents, additives, biocides, denaturing agents, thickeners and vitamins and their derivatives or equivalents, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, decolorizing agents or lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (e.g., moisturizers).

[0087] The cosmetic composition may further contain other cosmetic and / or dermatological agents or cosmetic agents with complementary effects that have the same properties as the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention and induce synergistic or non-synergistic effects.

[0088] The cosmetic composition is, for example, - A combination of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan, and sodium alginate, particularly those sold by the applicant under the name PatcH2O(™) as a formulation containing serine, trehalose, urea, and glycerol; - A plant extract of Cestrum latifolium sold by the applicant under the name Symbiocell(™), a butter extracted from the fruit of Irvingia gabonensis sold by the applicant under the name Irwinol(™), an extract of the root of Eperua falcata sold under the name Eperuline(™), an N-acetyl-L-tyrosyl-L-prolyl-L-phenylalanyl-L-phenylalanine amide peptide (INCI: acetyl tetrapeptide 15) sold by the applicant under the name Skinasensyl(™), etc., a cosmetic agent intended for the care of sensitive skin Other active ingredients may also be included for treating healthy skin and / or mucous membranes that complement the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or induce a synergistic effect therewith, selected from:

[0089] The beauty composition may contain one or more other ingredients showing activity against the skin and / or mucosal microbiota and / or showing activity against the skin barrier function, in particular moisturizing and / or soothing active agents, such as oligosaccharides obtained by enzymatic synthesis and sold under the name BioEcolia (trademark) by Solabia, or α-gluco-oligosaccharide complexes sold under the name Ecoskin (trademark) by the same company, extracts of Alisma plantago-aquatica, extracts of Argania spinosa (Lipofructyl (trademark) Argan), ceramide mixtures (Sphingoceryl (trademark) VEG), purified beet extracts (Betapur (trademark)), products based on inulin or fructo-oligosaccharides, extracts of bifidobacteria effective for oily skin or, alternatively, extracts of Orthosiphon stamineus (MAT-XS (trademark) Bright), natural honey extracts sold under the name Melhydran (trademark) by the applicant for their moisturizing properties, flax extracts sold under the name Oligolin (trademark) by the applicant, yeast extracts sold under the name Relipidium (trademark) by the applicant, modified by biotechnology, extracts of the roots of Pueraria lobata sold under the name Inhipase (trademark) by the applicant, extracts of the bark of Nephelium lappaceum sold under the name Nephydrat (trademark) by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, β-glucan derivatives derived from baker's yeast and sold under the name CM-Glucan Forte (trademark) by Mibelle and / or extracts of Mirabilis jalapa sold under the name Pacifeel (trademark) by Sederma.

[0090] Among other active ingredients that can be combined with the extract according to the present invention, there are plant extracts having properties for preventing the appearance of pigmentation and / or increasing the radiance of the face, in particular the extract of Inonotus obliquus sold by the applicant under the name Inolixir (trademark), the extract of the oil of Argania spinosa sold by the applicant under the name Arganyl (trademark), the Moringa oleifera seed extract sold by the applicant under the name Purisoft (trademark), the combination of the Salvia miltiorrhiza extract and niacinamide sold by the applicant under the name CollRepair (trademark), the extract of Achillea millefolium sold by the applicant under the name Neurobiox (trademark), the extract of the leaves of Cassia alata sold under the name DN-Age (trademark) as an antioxidant agent and / or the extract of Litchi chinensis sold under the name Litchiderm (trademark), the chicory extract sold under the name Lox-Age (trademark), the yeast extract sold under the name Vitacell (trademark), the extract of Polygonum bistorta sold under the name Perlaura (trademark), the galangal extract sold under the name Hyalufix (trademark), the corn extract sold under the name Deliner (trademark) or the extract of Voandzeia subterranea sold by the applicant under the name Epigenist (trademark) or furthermore an active agent for tightening the skin, for example the synthetic tetrapeptide sold under the name Dermican (trademark), the extract of Hibiscus abelmoschus sold under the name Linefactor (trademark), the purified pea extract sold under the name Proteasyl (trademark), the extract of Manilkara multinervis sold by the applicant under the name Elestan (trademark).Extracts of Origanum majorana sold under the name Dermagenist (trademark) and / or extracts of Khaya senegalensis sold under the name Collalift (registered trademark) 18 or phytosterols derived from rapeseed oil, in particular β - sitosterol and / or campesterol and / or brassicasterol, and extracts sold by the applicant under the name Phytosoothe (trademark) can also be added to the cosmetic composition.

[0091] These can further be anti - aging active ingredients and / or firming agents for synergistic effects with extracts of Gentiana crassicaulis. Advantageously, these are retinol, vitamin C, extracts of Davilla rugosa sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the name Collguard (trademark), seed extracts of Hibiscus abelmoschus sold under the name Linefactor (trademark), hydrolyzed soybean protein extracts sold under the name Phytokine (trademark), peptides sold by the applicant under the name Dermican (trademark) or products sold by Sederma under the names Matrixyl (trademark), Matrixyl 3000 (trademark) and Regestril (trademark), or sold by Codif under the name Neuroguard, or sold by Silab under the name Eternaline (trademark), etc., active ingredients that increase the gene and / or protein expression of collagen or active ingredients that prevent the degradation of collagen.

[0092] These can be, for example, niacinamide or vitamin B3, arbutin, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid or its derivatives, a combination of extracts of Saxifraga sarmentosa, Psidium guajava and Carica papaya sold under the name Dermawhite(®) WF by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, a combination of extracts of sulfite and Camellia sinensis, Scutellaria baicalensis, Cucumis sativus and Pyrus malus sold under the name Phytolight(®) BG, a standardized extract of the leaves of Lansium domesticum sold under the name DN-Aura(®), an extract of pea and sucrose dilaurate combination sold under the name Actiwhite(®), 4-hydroxyphenoxyacetic acid, in particular a derivative of 2-(4-hydroxyphenoxy)propionic acid or an extract of purified polysaccharides from Cassia angustifolia seeds sold under the name Hyalurosmooth(®) sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Radianskin(®), a stabilized protease extract isolated from Carica papaya latex sold under the name X-Pressin(®), cationic liposomes encapsulating ferulic acid sold under the name Cytovector Ferulic(®) or further a glycolic acid and L-arginine complex sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name AH-Care(®), etc., and can be components intended to reduce discoloration and / or lightening and / or spots due to skin pigmentation.

[0093] The stiffening agents that can be used in the present invention can be selected from colloidal particles of inorganic fillers selected from synthetic polymers such as polyurethane latex or acrylic latex, polymers of natural origin, especially in the form of starch or polysaccharides in the form of carrageenan, alginate, agar, gellan, cellulose-based polymers and pectin; vegetable proteins and protein hydrolysates; mixed silicates; wax microparticles; for example, silica, silica-alumina composites; and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Finally, these can be cosmetic ingredients such as antimicrobial agents, free radical scavengers, analgesics, sedatives or relaxants, agents acting on microcirculation to improve the appearance, in particular the glow of the face, healing agents or slimming agents. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition and / or dermatological composition of the present invention also contains one or more stiffening agents, and / or one or more antimicrobial agents, and / or one or more free radical scavengers, and / or one or more analgesics, and / or one or more slimming agents, and / or one or more agents acting on microcirculation.

[0095] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, among the antimicrobial agents combined with the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorovanillamide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerol, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0096] The free radical scavengers can be ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, specifically tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing the same, specifically green tea extract; anthocyanins; phenolic acids, stilbenes; monocyclic or polycyclic aromatic compound scavengers, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and / or heavy metal scavengers such as EDTA, free radical scavengers such as vitamin E and its derivatives, for example tocopherol acetate; bioflavonoids; vitamin C and its derivatives which may include coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.

[0097] Examples of sedatives included in the composition of the present invention include five-membered ring triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, ω-3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and betamethasone, anti-inflammatory active agents and in particular those described in French Patent No. 2 847 267, in particular the extract of the root of kudzu (Pueraria lobata) sold by the applicant under the name Inhipase (trademark) and the extract of cacao (Theobroma cacao) can be used.

[0098] Active ingredients, vasoprotective agents or vasodilators acting on microcirculation can be selected from flavonoids, ruscogenin, nicotinates and essential oils.

[0099] Weight loss active agents can be selected from lipoprotein lipase inhibitors such as those described in US Patent Application Publication No. 2003 / 086949 (Coletica) and in particular the extract of cat's claw (Uncaria tomentosa); excretory active ingredients, in particular hesperitin laurate (Flavagrum (trademark)) or quercetin caprylate (Flavenger (trademark)); phosphodiesterase enzyme inhibitors, adenylate cyclase activators, active agents having the ability to capture cAMP and / or spermine and / or spermidine. Extracts of the root of Coleus forskohlii, Cecropia obtusa, Uva lactuca, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and / or their derivatives, hydrolyzed κ-carrageenan of the trade name Slimexcess (trademark) sold by the applicant and / or mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0100] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as a moisturizing active agent, an anti-aging active agent, a free radical scavenger, an active agent for sensitive skin, an active agent for improving the skin barrier, an active agent for improving skin comfort, an active agent for reducing redness and swelling, an active agent for oily skin, an active agent for improving skin glow, an active agent for reducing pigmentation spots, an active agent for improving skin exfoliation, and an active agent for acne-prone skin.

[0101] The subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, for at least one site of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from skin and / or mucous membranes that are particularly sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dried, and / or prone to atopy, of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same, for the cosmetic treatment and / or care of said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, for the prevention and / or reduction of one or more non-aesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs of said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, preferably selected from stinging, itching, dryness, heat or a feeling of fever, tension, tingling, stiffness, redness and / or a mixture of these symptoms. The subject of the present invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, for at least one site of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from skin and / or mucous membranes that are particularly sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dried, and / or prone to atopy, of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same, for soothing said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or reducing and / or preventing the hypersensitivity of said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the moisturization of said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, characterized by comprising topical application. The subject of the present invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, for at least one site of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from skin and / or mucous membranes that are particularly sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or easily damaged, and / or weakened, and / or dried, and / or prone to atopy, of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same, characterized by comprising topical application for improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0102] Advantageously, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, is used by regular topical application, preferably at least once a day, advantageously twice a day and / or at least once a day, preferably for at least 5 days, more preferably for at least 21 days and advantageously for at least 28 days.

[0103] Advantageously, the topical application of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same is specifically for all or part of the healthy skin and / or mucous membranes of the human body, and / or the face, and / or the scalp, preferably the face (including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples), the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external auditory canal, the chin and / or the scalp, as well as the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, upper abdomen, cuffs, neck, arms, torso, back, waist, buttocks, waist, groin, mucous membranes, such as the lips, oral cavity, eye or nasal mucosa, sites exposed to contaminants and / or sensitizing substances such as cosmetics or soaps, such as around the eyes or around the lips, sites exposed to temperature fluctuations and / or sites expressing emotions, such as the cheeks, cuffs, hands and / or further shaving sites and / or macerated sites such as the buttocks of infants, wrinkled sites such as the armpits, the back of the elbows, the back of the knees, the buttocks, the groin, the neck and / or sites that have been overly cleaned, and is carried out on specific parts of the body selected therefrom.

[0104] In an advantageous embodiment of the cosmetic method according to the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention at a concentration of 1×10 -4 % to 10% (w / w) based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 1×10 -3 % to 10% (w / w) based on the weight, advantageously 1×10 -3 % to 3% (w / w) based on the weight, more preferably 0.01% to 3% (w / w) based on the weight, and even more preferably 0.01% to 1% (w / w) based on the weight, and the composition also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, preferably a beauty care method according to the invention for preventing and / or reducing one or more aesthetically non-pleasing, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs selected from stinging, itching, dryness, heat or a feeling of fever, tension, tingling, stiffness, redness and / or a mixture of these signs, in particular for calming healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or reducing and / or preventing the hypersensitivity of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or increasing and / or maintaining the moisturization of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, preferably for improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier, wherein the healthy skin and / or mucous membranes are selected from sensitive skin, sensitized skin, skin prone to damage, weakened skin, dry skin and / or skin prone to atopy, in particular sensitive skin, the method advantageously comprises the following steps: - identifying in the individual a site of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from sites of sensitive, sensitized, skin prone to damage, weakened, dry, and / or skin prone to atopy, in particular sensitive skin, at which it is desirable to prevent and / or reduce one or more of its aesthetically non-pleasing, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs, in particular to calm its comfort and / or increase it and / or maintain it and / or reduce and / or prevent its hypersensitivity and / or increase and / or maintain its moisturization and / or improve and / or maintain the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier; - Applying topically to the skin and / or mucosal site an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same, preferably in an amount effective to prevent and / or reduce one or more of its non-aesthetic, and / or unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable signs selected from stinging, itching, dryness, heat or fever sensation of the skin, tension, tingling, stiffness, redness and / or a mixture of these signs, in particular to soothe, and / or increase, and / or maintain the comfort of the healthy skin and / or mucosal site, and / or reduce and / or prevent its hypersensitivity, and / or increase and / or maintain its moisturization, and / or improve and / or maintain its skin and / or mucosal barrier, specifically preferably in a weight-based amount of 1×10 -4 % to 10% (w / w), preferably 1×10 -3 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 1×10 -3 % to 3% (w / w), more preferably 0.01% to 3% (w / w) by weight, even more preferably 0.01% to 1% (w / w) by weight of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis in the composition, and topically applying; and including.

[0106] The subject of the present invention is a pathological condition associated with swelling of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such swelling, and / or associated with dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such dysfunction, and / or associated with a marked decrease in moisturization of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes, wherein the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes are in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and / or swollen skin and / or mucous membranes, and the pathological condition is, for example, xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, such as scaling known as skin peeling syndrome, swelling, eczema, for treating, and / or preventing, and / or reducing the occurrence of the pathological condition, and / or for treating, and / or preventing, and / or reducing the occurrence of changes in the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes associated with certain pathological conditions such as diabetes, herpes zoster, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia, a Gentiana crassicaulis extract or a dermatological composition containing the same. Preferably, the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes are not inflamed.

[0107] In a preferred embodiment, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract or a dermatological composition containing the same is a pathological condition associated with swelling of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such swelling, and / or associated with dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes and / or an increase in such dysfunction, and / or associated with a marked decrease in moisturization of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes, wherein the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes are reactive and / or intolerant skin and / or mucous membranes, and the pathological condition is selected from xerosis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, such as scaling known as skin peeling syndrome, for treating, and / or preventing, and / or reducing the occurrence of the pathological condition, and / or for treating, and / or preventing, and / or reducing the occurrence of dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes associated with a pathological condition selected from diabetes, herpes zoster, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia, for topical use.

[0108] According to a particular embodiment, the subject matter of the present invention is a pathological skin and / or mucosa associated with a dysfunction of the skin and / or mucosa barrier, which is a reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and inflamed skin and / or mucosa, and is for its use for reducing and / or preventing the inflammation of pathological skin and / or mucosa selected from inflamed skin and / or mucosa. It is also an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a dermatological composition containing the same.

[0109] Specifically, the present extract is the extract according to the present invention as described and / or defined in more detail above herein.

[0110] According to one embodiment, the extract according to the present invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition containing at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0111] In one embodiment of the present invention, the dermatological composition is applied topically.

[0112] According to one embodiment, in the dermatological composition, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is present in a content of 1×10 -4 % to 10% (w / w) based on the weight of the total composition, preferably 1×10 -3 % to 10% (w / w) based on the weight, advantageously 1×10 -3 % to 3% (w / w) based on the weight, more preferably 0.01% to 3% (w / w) based on the weight, and even more preferably 0.01% to 1% (w / w) based on the weight.

[0113] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reactive skin and / or mucosa" is also referred to as intolerant skin or allergic skin or atopic skin or inflamed skin and / or mucosa, and refers to a certain type of sensitive skin and / or mucosa characterized by skin and / or mucosa that overreacts as a result of a reduced intolerance threshold due to a dysfunction of the skin and / or mucosa barrier.

[0114] The term "dysfunction of the skin and / or mucosal barrier" means a temporary or permanent abnormality of the skin and / or mucosal barrier induced by and / or associated with and / or caused by a pathological condition, particularly a pathological condition of the skin. This skin barrier dysfunction can be present or occur in a population having the pathological condition and / or a predisposition thereto. The pathological condition is particularly selected from xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, particularly pathological scaling, such as scaling known as skin peeling syndrome, blisters, eczema, but also selected from pathological conditions such as diabetes, herpes zoster, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dermatological composition" refers to a pathological condition associated with inflamed and / or increased inflammation of the skin and / or mucosa and / or associated with a dysfunction of the skin and / or mucosal barrier of the pathological skin and / or mucosa and / or an increase in such dysfunction and / or associated with a marked decrease in moisturization of the pathological skin and / or mucosa, wherein the pathological skin and / or mucosa are particularly reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and / or inflamed skin and / or mucosa, and the pathological condition is, for example, xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, particularly pathological scaling, such as scaling known as skin peeling syndrome, blisters, eczema, for treating and / or preventing and / or reducing the occurrence of the pathological condition and / or for treating and / or preventing and / or reducing the occurrence of a dysfunction of the skin and / or mucosal barrier of the pathological skin and / or mucosa associated with certain pathological conditions such as diabetes, herpes zoster, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the pathological skin and / or mucosa are not inflamed.

[0116] The term "reducing and / or preventing inflammation of the pathological skin and / or mucosa" means reducing and / or decreasing the measured value of the inflammation of the inflamed skin and / or mucosa, particularly the measured value of the decrease in transepidermal water loss, the measured value of the erythrocyte concentration by cell viability imaging and / or the measured value of the increase in moisturization in the inflamed skin and / or mucosa.

[0117] The measurement of swelling can be tested by measuring the red blood cell concentration by cell viability imaging (TiVi). This TiVi method uses a polarization spectroscopy camera, analyzes the images taken with a polarizing lens, and utilizes the feature that red blood cells in blood vessels absorb green light. This can depict the aggregated local red blood cell image at an average depth of about 0.5 mm under the skin, and the state of the microcirculation of the skin's blood can be obtained. The damage to the skin caused by chemical exposure can be studied with this technical device.

[0118] Advantageously, the measurement of the reduction of swelling is preferably carried out in a population of men and women with swollen skin and / or mucous membranes on the face, due to the attachment of an occlusive patch containing SLS that induces skin swelling under the conditions described in Example 2, and the reduction is measured by comparing the initial value and after the application of a preparation containing an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis prepared according to Example 1.a.

[0119] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention is an effective amount to reduce and / or prevent swelling of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes when the extract, particularly the extract in the form of a dermatological composition according to the present invention, reduces the red blood cell concentration by at least 5%, preferably at least 9%, compared to the red blood cell concentration detected before application, as early as 4 hours after the application of the extract, particularly the extract in the form of a dermatological composition according to the present invention, after the induction of swelling by an SLS patch.

[0120] According to a preferred aspect, the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes are not invaded by parasites such as bacteria, fungi or other insects, such as mites, and / or the swelling is not caused by parasites such as bacteria, fungi or other insects, such as mites.

[0121] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following description of the examples.

[0122] Examples referring to the description in the specification of the present invention are presented below. These examples are provided for illustrative purposes and in no way limit the scope of the present invention. Each of the examples has a general scope.

[0123] These examples form an essential part of the present invention, and any feature that appears to be novel compared to any prior art from the description of the specification, including these examples and incorporated in its entirety, forms an essential part of the present invention.

[0124] Moreover, in these examples, percentages are given on a weight basis unless otherwise specified, temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise specified, and pressures are atmospheric pressure unless otherwise specified.

Example

[0125] Example 1a: Preparation of an extract (powder containing maltodextrin) of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention The dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were ground, extracted with 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was carried out with a 25 / 75 (weight / weight) water / ethanol mixture, and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The resulting liquid extract was mixed with maltodextrin at a ratio of 60% (weight% / weight) of maltodextrin to 40% solid maltodextrin. The resulting mixture was freeze-dried to obtain a yellow powder. The resulting product was characterized by a moisture content ≦ 8.0% (w / w) and a loganic acid content ≧ 0.2% (weight / weight) with respect to the total weight of the solid of the extract as determined by HPLC.

[0126] Example 1b: Preparation of an extract (powder without adjuvant) of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention The dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were pulverized, extracted with 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, and then this was loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was carried out with a 25 / 75 (weight / weight) water / ethanol mixture, and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The resulting liquid was freeze-dried to obtain a yellow powder. The obtained product is characterized by a moisture content ≦ 8.0% (weight / weight) and a loganic acid content ≧ 0.5% (weight / weight) based on the total weight of the solids of the extract as determined by HPLC.

[0127] Example 1c: Preparation of an extract (liquid) of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention mixed with glycols The dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were pulverized, extracted with 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, and then this was loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was carried out with a 25 / 75 (weight / weight) water / ethanol mixture, and then the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. Next, this extract was stirred in butylene glycol to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by 5% of the solids extracted from the roots (% weight / weight) and a loganic acid content ≧ 0.3% (weight / weight) based on the total weight of the solids in the extract as determined by HPLC.

[0128] Example 1d: Preparation of an extract (liquid) of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention mixed with glycerol The dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were pulverized, extracted with 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was carried out with a 25 / 75 (weight / weight) water / ethanol mixture, and then the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator to remove ethanol. This extract was then mixed with stirring in glycerol to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by a solid (weight / weight) extracted from 1% of the roots and a loganic acid content ≥ 0.025% (weight / weight) relative to the total weight of the solids in the extract as determined by HPLC.

[0129] Example 2: Clinical evaluation of the effect of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention on improving the skin barrier and moisturization of sensitive skin in a diseased (inflamed) state in a model and on reducing the inflammation thus induced. A double-blind randomized trial was conducted on the forearms of 31 Asian female volunteers aged 18 to 35 years who have skin that is said to be sensitive but not diseased, i.e., who daily complain of at least two of the following unfavorable or unpleasant symptoms: itching, heat sensation, and stiffness.

[0130] Skin irritation was induced at three sites on the forearm using a 24-hour occlusion patch of 0.1% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). This model creates a damaged skin barrier and thus enables modeling of pathological skin that is said to be irritated due to a damaged skin barrier. The first application of the test composition was performed 1 hour after removing the patch. Next, the volunteers applied the composition twice a day (once in the morning and once at night) for 5 days. The test composition was a formulation according to Example 3 (referred to as the "active" composition according to Example 3) in which the final weight concentration of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis obtained as in Example 1.a accounted for 0.15% (w / w) of the total weight of the formulation, which was applied to one forearm of each woman, and a formulation according to Example 3 (referred to as the "control" composition according to Example 3) in which the extract of the present invention was not included and which was replaced with dipotassium glycyrrhizinate as a reference compound at 0.2% (w / w) of the total weight of the formulation, which was applied to the other forearm. Sites that were exposed to the patch but to which the composition was not applied (referred to as "untreated" sites) were also tested.

[0131] The effectiveness of the treatment was evaluated in various ways: - By measuring the erythrocyte concentration, an indicator of skin irritation, and cell viability imaging (TiVi). - Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using a tewameter. - Moisture retention measurement using a corneometer.

[0132] The measurement times were 1 hour after patch removal (D0, H0), 4 hours after (D0, H4), 24 hours after (D1), and 5 days after (D5).

[0133] The effectiveness of the formulation with or without the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention was compared with that before treatment (D0, H0), the control formulation, and the untreated sites.

[0134] The results are expressed as the percentage of variation compared to the values at D0 and H0. After confirming normality using the Shapiro-Wilk test, a statistical analysis of parameter variation as a function of time and as a function of the test composition was performed by a two-sided Student's t-test after confirmation of normality or by a Wilcoxon test after rejection of normality. The significance threshold was set at 5% (p < 0.05). - The measurement results of the transepidermal water loss (tewameter) and the rate of variation are shown in Table 1; - The measurement results of moisturization (corneometer) and the rate of variation are shown in Table 2; - The measurement results of the erythrocyte concentration (skin swelling) by cell viability imaging (TiVi) and the rate of variation are shown in Table 3.

[0135]

Table 1

[0136] According to the active composition according to Example 3 containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis obtained as in Example 1.a, the transepidermal water loss induced by the SLS patch significantly decreased as early as 4 hours later compared to the initial values before treatment (D0, H0) and at 4 hours and 5 days later compared to the values at the untreated site.

[0137]

Table 2

[0138] According to the active composition according to Example 3 containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis obtained as in Example 1.a, the skin moisture retention after dehydration induced by the SLS patch significantly increased as early as 4 hours later compared to D0, H0 (before treatment) and the untreated site, and also significantly increased as early as 4 hours and 5 days later compared to the control composition according to Example 3 not containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis.

[0139] In summary, these results demonstrate the beneficial effects of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis obtained according to the present invention in improving and / or maintaining the skin barrier and increasing and / or maintaining the moisturization of inflamed skin.

[0140]

Table 3

[0141] According to the active composition according to Example 3 containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis obtained as in Example 1.a, the inflammation induced by the SLS patch significantly decreased as early as 4 hours compared to the initial value before treatment (D0, H0) and the value of the untreated site, and significantly decreased after 5 days compared to the control composition according to Example 3 not containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis. These results demonstrate the beneficial effects of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the present invention in reducing and / or preventing skin inflammation.

[0142] This example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the present invention in treating the damaged skin barrier of inflamed skin. More generally, this example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the present invention in reducing the discomfort, undesirable and / or unpleasant sensations of other "non-diseased" skin types such as sensitive skin.

[0143] Example 3: Example of a cosmetic composition containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to Example 1.a The composition according to the present invention is prepared by mixing the various Phases A, B and C shown in Table 4 below together using methods known to those skilled in the art. The ratios are expressed as percentages and the capitalized names correspond to the INCI names of the components.

[0144]

Table 4

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of Gentiana crassicaulis extract for cosmetic treatments and / or cosmetic care, excluding human therapeutic methods, for healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or fragile, and / or weakened, and / or dry, and / or atopic skin and / or mucous membranes.

2. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 for preventing and / or reducing one or more unattractive, and / or unpleasant signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or fragile, and / or weakened, and / or dry, and / or atopic skin and / or mucous membranes.

3. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 for soothing healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or increasing and / or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or reducing and / or preventing hypersensitivity of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or increasing and / or maintaining the moisture of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

4. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the healthy skin and / or mucous membrane has a weakened skin and / or mucous membrane barrier.

5. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the unattractive and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable signs of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes are selected from stinging, itching, dryness, heat or fever, tightness, burning, stiffness, redness and / or a mixture thereof.

6. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 for improving and / or maintaining the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

7. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is an extract of the root.

8. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis contains loganiic acid and / or one or more derivatives thereof.

9. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is obtained by extraction with a polar protic solvent.

10. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is in the form of a dried active ingredient.

11. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a cosmetic ingredient containing the same is intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition which also includes at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient for topical administration to healthy skin.

12. The extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is used in a cosmetic composition, wherein the extract is added in an amount of 1 × 10⁻¹⁶ by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. －４ The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a cosmetic composition containing the substance at a concentration of % to 10% (w / w), wherein the cosmetic composition also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

13. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized by topical application to all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp.

14. A non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, excluding human treatment methods, characterized by comprising topical application of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a cosmetic composition containing the same to at least one site of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes selected from sensitive, and / or sensitized, and / or fragile, and / or weakened, and / or dry, and / or atopic skin and / or mucous membranes, for cosmetic treatment and / or care of the said healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

15. The cosmetic care method according to claim 14, wherein the healthy skin and / or mucous membrane area is selected from all or part of the body and / or face and / or scalp.

16. The cosmetic care method according to claim 14, wherein the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is as defined in any one of claims 7 to 12.

17. A dermatological composition containing an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis for topical use in treating and / or preventing and / or reducing the occurrence of a pathological condition associated with rashes and / or increased rashes of diseased skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or impaired function and / or increased dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier of the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or a significant decrease in moisture retention of the diseased skin and / or mucous membranes.

18. A dermatological composition comprising an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or the same, for use according to claim 17, for reducing and / or preventing rashes of pathological skin, in which the pathological skin and / or mucous membranes are selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic, and irritated skin and / or mucous membranes, wherein the pathological skin and / or mucous membranes are associated with dysfunction of the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier.

19. The extract of Gentiana crassicaulis described above is as defined in any one of claims 7 to 10, and the dermatological composition for use of Gentiana crassicaulis or a dermatological composition containing the same, according to claim 17.