Personal care compositions containing biosurfactants
Mono-rhamnolipid surfactants with a C10-C13 alkyl tail in sulfate-free personal care compositions address harshness and stability issues, offering effective foaming and cleaning benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2025523571
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-10-31
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-27
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-10-27
AI Technical Summary
Conventional shampoos using sulfated surfactants cause harshness and poor hair feel, while sulfate-free alternatives often lack desirable foaming and cleaning properties, and stability issues arise due to in situ coacervate formation.
Personal care compositions comprising mono-rhamnolipid surfactants with a single C10-C13 alkyl tail group, optionally combined with additional non-sulfated surfactants, and a dispersed gel network phase to enhance foaming, cleaning, and stability.
The compositions provide gentle cleansing with desirable foam and cleaning performance, while maintaining stability by minimizing in situ coacervate formation and avoiding harshness.
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Figure 2025536547000001_ABST
Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present disclosure relates generally to sulfate-free personal care compositions comprising glycolipid surfactants. More specifically, the present disclosure relates to sulfate-free personal care compositions comprising surfactants having a single rhamnose head group and a single C10-C13 alkyl tail group. [Background technology]
[0002] Human hair becomes dirty due to contact with the surrounding environment and sebum secreted by the scalp. Dirty hair can have an undesirable feel and / or appearance. As a result, people may wash their hair with shampoo compositions to restore the hair to a clean and attractive appearance. Many conventional shampoos use sulfated surfactants, such as sodium lauryl sulfate and / or sodium laureth sulfate, to cleanse the hair. While sulfated surfactants are generally very good at removing oil and other contaminants from hair, they also have drawbacks. For example, sulfated surfactants are sometimes associated with poor hair feel, dry hair, and / or dry skin after washing. This is commonly referred to as "harshness," and harsh shampoos generally have poor consumer acceptance.
[0003] While eliminating sulfated surfactants provides a milder cleansing composition, it has drawbacks, particularly for conditioning shampoos (i.e., shampoos that provide cleansing and conditioning benefits to hair). Conditioning shampoos with sulfate-based surfactant systems generally use cationic conditioning polymers to form coacervates with sulfate-based surfactants during use, which provides the lathering / foaming properties desired by consumers. However, non-sulfated surfactants tend to be less effective at forming coacervates with conditioning polymers than sulfated surfactants, which can result in less smooth lathering, cleaning, and conditioning benefits. Furthermore, certain cationic conditioning polymers can introduce instability into products that use sulfate-free surfactant systems. In particular, a second phase known as a surfactant-polymer coacervate can form in the composition (in situ coacervate) rather than forming as needed during use. In situ coacervate formation is typically perceived by the consumer as an undesirable hazy product or a product with a sediment layer that performs poorly during use.
[0004] There is also a demand from consumers and manufacturers of cleaning compositions for more environmentally friendly compositions.The surfactants used in conventional cleansing compositions are generally derived from petrochemicals, which are generally recognized as being bad for the environment.However, sustainability in the use of cosmetic ingredients is becoming increasingly important, and is being demanded by more and more consumers and manufacturers of cosmetic cleansing agents.The use of certain sustainable or naturally derived surfactants is well known.Glycolipids are one such example of naturally derived surfactants.
[0005] Glycolipids are found in eukaryotic cell membranes, where they play a structural role and facilitate many other cellular functions. Glycolipid surfactants generally consist of a glycosyl head and a lipid tail, which provide the amphiphilic behavior typically exhibited by surfactants. However, naturally occurring surfactants such as glycolipids may not provide the amount of foaming and cleaning performance desired by consumers. For example, U.S. Pat. No. 10,292,924 discloses the need for cleaning compositions containing rhamnolipids with good foaming properties. The cleaning composition of U.S. Pat. No. 10,292,924 purportedly addresses this problem by providing a high concentration of di-rhamnolipids relative to mono-rhamnolipids.
[0006] In contrast, EP 2410039 discloses cleaning compositions characterized by a mono-rhamnolipid to di-rhamnolipid ratio of 95:5 to 45:55. EP 2410039 also discloses that rhamnolipids are anionic surfactants that are optionally mixed together to provide desirable foaming properties. In particular, EP 2410039 suggests that rhamnolipids with two short fatty acids are more active in reducing surface tension and as emulsifiers, while these rare rhamnolipids with a single fatty acid chain are less effective. EP 2410039 indicates that the major mono-rhamnolipid and di-rhamnolipid components expressed by bacteria generally need to be extracted and re-blended to provide suitable cleaning power. Therefore, there remains a need for gentle cleaning compositions that use naturally derived surfactants to provide desirable foam and cleaning properties. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] U.S. Patent No. 10,292,924 [Patent Document 2] European Patent No. 2410039 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] Therefore, it would be desirable to provide personal cleansing compositions that contain naturally derived surfactants and that exhibit desirable foaming and cleaning properties. It would also be desirable to provide such compositions that are free of sulfated surfactants. It would further be desirable to provide such compositions that exhibit good stability. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] Rha-C 10 , Rha-C 11 , Rha-C 12 , Rha-C 13 and combinations thereof, an additional surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and combinations thereof, and a carrier. The personal care composition is free of sulfated surfactants. [Brief explanation of the drawings]
[0010] [Figure 1] 1 shows the foam height characteristics exhibited by various combinations of glycolipid surfactants. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] Shampoos containing sulfated surfactants are generally recognized as providing desirable cleansing properties, including sebum and dirt removal and good foaming.However, sulfated surfactants are generally perceived as harsh.Replacing sulfated surfactant(s) with naturally derived surfactants, such as glycolipid surfactants, can provide gentler cleansing, but may not provide the desired amount of foam and / or cleansing.Surprisingly, it has now been found that certain types of rhamnolipid surfactants can provide suitable foaming and cleansing.In particular, it has been found that certain mono-rhamno-mono-lipid surfactants provide better foaming and cleansing than traditional rhamnolipid surfactant analogues having two or more lipid tail groups.
[0012] References herein to "embodiment(s)" or the like mean that a particular material, feature, structure, and / or characteristic described in connection with that embodiment is included in at least one embodiment, and optionally in multiple embodiments, but do not mean that all embodiments incorporate the described material, feature, structure, and / or characteristic. Furthermore, materials, features, structures, and / or characteristics may be combined in any suitable manner across different embodiments, and materials, features, structures, and / or characteristics may be excluded or substituted from those described. Accordingly, the embodiments and aspects described herein can include or be combined with elements or components of other embodiments and / or aspects, even if not explicitly illustrated in combination, unless specifically stated otherwise or unless stated to be incompatible.
[0013] All ingredient percentages described herein are by weight of the cosmetic composition and may be expressed as "% by weight (wt%)" unless otherwise specified. All ratios are by weight unless otherwise specified. All ranges are inclusive and combinable. The number of significant digits does not represent a limitation on the stated amount or on the precision of the measurements. Unless specifically stated otherwise, all numerical quantities are understood to be modified by the word "about." Unless otherwise specified, all measurements are understood to be made at ambient conditions of approximately 25°C, where "ambient conditions" means conditions of about 1 atmosphere and about 50% relative humidity. All numerical ranges are inclusive of narrower ranges, and the upper and lower limits of stated ranges are interchangeable to create further ranges not otherwise stated.
[0014] The compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of the essential and optional components described herein. As used herein, "consisting essentially of" means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed composition or method. As used in this specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.
[0015] definition "About" modifies a particular value by indicating a range of ±20% or less (eg, ±15% or less, 10% or less, or 5% or less) of the stated value.
[0016] "Apply" or "application" as used in reference to a composition means to spread or spread the composition onto a keratinous surface of a human being, such as skin or hair.
[0017] "Charge Density" ("CD") refers to the ratio of positive charges on a polymer to the molecular weight of the polymer.
[0018] "Cleansing composition" refers to a personal care composition or product intended for use in cleansing bodily surfaces such as skin or hair. Some non-limiting examples of cleansing compositions are shampoos, conditioners, conditioning shampoos, shower gels, liquid hand cleansers, facial washes, etc.
[0019] "Cosmetic agent" means any substance, and any component thereof, intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed, introduced, or otherwise applied to the mammalian body or any part thereof to produce a cosmetic effect. Cosmetic agents may include substances and food additives that are generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
[0020] "Gel network phase" or "dispersed gel network phase" refers to a lamellar or vesicular solid crystalline phase comprising at least one fatty alcohol, at least one gel network surfactant, and a liquid carrier. The lamellar or vesicular phase may be formed of alternating layers, one phase comprising the fatty alcohol and the gel network surfactant, and the other phase formed by the liquid carrier.
[0021] "Solid crystalline" refers to a crystalline structure of a lamellar or vesicular phase at ambient temperature caused by a phase below its melting transition temperature. For example, the melting transition temperature of the lamellar or vesicular phase may be about 30°C or higher (i.e., slightly above about room temperature). The melting transition temperature may be measured by differential scanning calorimetry, a conventional measurement method well known to those skilled in the art.
[0022] "Suitable for application to human hair" means that the personal care composition or its components are acceptable for use in contact with human hair and scalp and skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic reaction, etc.
[0023] "Substantially free of" means that the composition or ingredient contains less than 3% (e.g., less than 2%, less than 1%, or less than 0.5%) of the subject material by weight of the composition or ingredient. "Free of" means that the composition or ingredient contains 0% of the subject material.
[0024] "Sulfated surfactant" refers to a surfactant that contains a sulfate component. Some non-limiting examples of sulfated surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate. "Sulfate-free surfactant" refers to a surfactant that does not have a sulfate component.
[0025] Personal Care Compositions The sulfate-free personal care compositions herein comprise a mono-rhamno-mono-lipid surfactant and, optionally, one or more additional non-sulfated surfactants and / or other ingredients commonly found in compositions of the described type. The personal care compositions herein may be provided in various product forms, such as solutions, suspensions, shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, gels, toners, sticks, sprays, aerosols, ointments, cleansing liquid washes, solid bars, pastes, foams, mousses, shaving creams, wipes, strips, patches, hydrogels, film-forming products, facials, and skin masks (with or without insoluble sheets). The form of the composition may depend on the specific dermatologically acceptable carrier selected. In some embodiments, the personal care compositions described herein may comprise a dispersed gel network phase that, in combination with a detersive glycolipid surfactant, provides a gentler yet effective cleansing effect to soiled hair.
[0026] For example, the composition may contain less than 1% (e.g., 0% to 0.8%, 0.05% to 0.5%, or 0.1% to 0.3%) of inorganic salts, such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium sulfate, ammonium chloride, sodium bromide, combinations thereof, etc. In some conventional cleaning compositions, inorganic salts are added to thicken the product. However, in sulfate-free cleansing compositions, inorganic salts can cause instability in the composition by aiding in the formation of coacervates between the commonly present anionic surfactants and cationic polymers. Coacervates typically have a gel-like consistency and can affect the rheological and performance properties of the composition, as well as consumer-perceived product quality.
[0027] By maintaining a desired salt concentration, it may be possible to reduce or eliminate product instability problems associated with in situ coacervate formation. Therefore, in some embodiments, it may be important to avoid or minimize the addition of excess inorganic salt(s) as carryover components (i.e., trace components that may be present in other components added to the composition). For example, commercially available sulfate-free surfactants, such as glutamic acid-based, betaine-based, and sultaine-based surfactants, generally contain high concentrations of inorganic salts (e.g., 5% or more). Product instability may manifest as a cloudy appearance, phase separation, and / or precipitation. Methods for determining the presence or absence of in situ coacervates are well known in the art, for example, as described in U.S. Patent Publication No. 2023 / 0118201.
[0028] Of course, it should be recognized that when the cleaning composition is used as intended (i.e., diluted with water), it will form coacervates to provide the desired cleaning benefits.
[0029] Rhamnolipid surfactant The personal care compositions described herein contain one or more rhamnolipid biosurfactants to provide foaming and cleansing benefits to personal care compositions for cleansing target body surfaces, such as soiled hair and skin. The rhamnolipid surfactants herein can be produced by microorganisms (e.g., Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Pseudomonas putida, and Pseudomonas chlororaphis). The rhamnolipid surfactant(s) facilitate cleaning due to their amphiphilic nature, which allows the surfactant to break down and form micelles around oils and other contaminants in hair. The "entrapped" contaminants can then be more easily washed away with water. A description of various types of rhamnolipids is disclosed in EP 2410039. Methods for producing, extracting, and blending naturally occurring rhamnolipids are well known in the art.
[0030] As used herein, a rhamnolipid surfactant is a mono-rhamnose-mono-lipid surfactant, where the single lipid tail is 10-13 carbon atoms in length, for example, according to the formula shown below ("Rha-C"). 10~13 ").
[0031] [ka] In the formula, R is an alkyl group having 10 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0032] Conventional wisdom holds that rhamnolipids with a single lipid tail are generally unsuitable for use as surfactants due to their low level of detergency, especially compared to traditional rhamnolipids with two lipid tails. However, it has now been discovered that mono-rhamnolipids, with a single fatty acid tail of 10-13 carbons, exhibit surprisingly good foaming and cleansing properties when added to personal cleansing compositions. Accordingly, the personal cleansing compositions herein contain 0.1% to 10% (e.g., 0.5%, or alternatively, 1% to 5%) of Rha-C. 10~13 In some embodiments, the compositions herein may include additional surfactant(s). In such embodiments, Rha-C 10~13 The surfactant may comprise from 1% to 80% (eg, from 3% to 50%) of the total surfactants in the composition.
[0033] Additional surfactants The personal care compositions described herein may optionally further comprise one or more non-sulfated surfactants. The additional surfactants may be selected from anionic surfactants, such as isethionate, sarcosinate, sulfonate, sulfosuccinate, sulfoacetate, glycinate, glutamate, glucosecarboxylate, and phosphate ester surfactants; cationic surfactants, such as polyquaternium surfactants; amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants, such as surfactants broadly described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines, where one of the aliphatic substituents contains 8 to 18 carbon atoms and one of the aliphatic substituents contains an anionic group, such as a carboxy group, a sulfonate group, a phosphate group, a phosphonate group, and the like; nonionic surfactants, such as polyethylene oxide condensates of alkylphenols, and combinations thereof. Some non-limiting examples of any of the above surfactants are disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 20190105246, 20180098923, 9271908, WO 2020 / 016097, and McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents, 2019, MC Publishing Co.
[0034] Some particularly suitable examples of additional surfactants include amphoteric surfactants, such as cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, lauroamphoacetate, lauroamphodiacetate, amidobetaine, amidosulfobetaine, hydroxysultaine, and mixtures thereof, and anionic surfactants, such as isethionates, sarcosinates, sulfonates (e.g., alpha olefin sulfonates), taurates, alaninates, glycinates, glutamates, sulfosuccinates, and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Optional additional surfactants, when present, may be included in the personal care composition to provide desired cleaning and lathering performance. Any additional surfactants must be physically and chemically compatible with the other components of the personal care compositions described herein and must not unduly impair product stability, aesthetics, or performance. In some embodiments, the additional surfactant may be present in the personal care composition at 5% to 50% (e.g., 8% to 30%, 9% to 25%, or 10% to 17%).
[0036] Dispersed gel network phase The personal care compositions described herein may include a dispersed gel network phase in combination with a detersive surfactant to provide the composition with a suitable cleansing effect. The gel network phase may impart a cleaning effect to the personal care composition due to its hydrophobicity. Specifically, without being bound by theory, it is believed that the hydrophobic nature of the dispersed gel network allows the gel network to dissolve hydrophobic soils, such as oils, into the gel network. Once the soils are dissolved in the gel network, the gel network can be rinsed off from hair or skin.
[0037] A suitable dispersed gel network can be formed by combining aliphatic alcohol and gel network surfactant in a suitable ratio and heating the dispersion to a temperature above the melting point of the aliphatic alcohol. During this mixing process, the aliphatic alcohol melts, distributing the gel network surfactant and bringing water into the aliphatic alcohol. The mixing of the gel network surfactant and the aliphatic alcohol also causes the isotropic aliphatic alcohol droplets to change into liquid crystalline phase droplets. Subsequently, when the mixture is cooled below the melting transition temperature of the aliphatic alcohol, the liquid crystal phase is transformed into a solid crystalline gel network. Further details of suitable gel networks are described in G.M. Eccleston, "Functions of Mixed Emulsifiers and Emulsifying Waxes in Dermatological Lotions and Creams," Colloids and Surfaces A: Physiochem. and Eng. Aspects 123-124 (1997) 169-182; and "The Microstructure of Semisolid Creams" by G.M. Eccleston, Pharmacy International, Vol. 7, 63-70 (1986), each of which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0038] In some embodiments, it may be desirable to preform the gel network phase, meaning that at least 50 percent of the mixture of fatty alcohol, gel network surfactant, and liquid carrier is in a substantially solid crystalline phase before being added to the other components of the personal care composition. When the dispersed gel network is preformed, the gel network component may be prepared as a separate premix, which, after cooling, may then be incorporated with the detersive surfactant and any other components of the personal care composition. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the incorporation of the preformed gel network component with the detersive surfactant and other components of the personal care composition results in the formation of a substantially equilibrated lamellar dispersion ("ELD") in the final composition.
[0039] An ELD is a dispersed lamellar or vesicular phase resulting from a preformed gel network component that is substantially in equilibrium with the detersive surfactant, carrier, and other optional components of the personal care composition. This equilibration occurs upon incorporation of the preformed gel network component into the other components of the personal care composition and can be effectively completed within about 24 hours after incorporation. An ELD is not formed when the components including the gel network component (i.e., fatty alcohol, gel network surfactant, and liquid carrier) are added as individual components with the other components of the personal care composition in a single mixing step, rather than as separate preformed gel network components.
[0040] The presence of gel network in premixes and personal care compositions can be confirmed by means well known to those skilled in the art.For example, X-ray analysis, optical microscopy, electron microscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry can be used to identify gel network.Suitable X-ray analysis is described in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2006 / 0024256, which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0041] In some embodiments, the scale size of the dispersed gel network in the personal care composition can range from about 10 nm to about 500 nm (eg, 0.5 μm to 10 μm or 10 μm to about 150 μm).
[0042] The scale size distribution of the dispersed gel network in the personal care composition can be measured by laser light scattering technique using a Horiba Model LA910 Laser Scattering Particle Size Distribution Analyzer (Horiba Instruments, Inc., Irvine, California, USA). The scale size distribution in the personal care composition can be measured by mixing 1.75 g of the personal care composition with 30 mL of 3% NH4Cl, 20 mL of 2% Na2HPO4 . The scale size can be measured by combining 10 mL of 3% NaHPO4.7H2O and 10 mL of 1% Laureth-7 to form a mixture. This mixture is then stirred for 5 minutes. Depending on the particular Horiba instrument used, a sample ranging from 1 to 40 mL is taken and then injected into a Horiba instrument containing 75 mL of 3% NH4Cl, 50 mL of 2% Na2HPO4.7H2O, and 25 mL of 1% Laureth-7 until the Horiba instrument reaches the required 88-92% T for the scale size measurement. Once this is achieved, after 2 minutes of circulation, it is run through the Horiba instrument to provide the scale size measurement. This subsequent measurement is performed using a sample of the personal care composition that has been heated to a temperature above the melting transition temperature of all fatty materials present in the shampoo composition to ensure melting of the dispersed gel network components. This subsequent measurement provides a scale size distribution for all remaining materials in the personal care composition, which can then be compared to the scale size distribution of the initial sample to aid in analysis.
[0043] Gel network fatty alcohol The dispersed gel network may comprise a fatty alcohol (e.g., a C10-C40 fatty alcohol) at 0.05% or more by weight of the composition (e.g., 0.05% to about 25%, 0.5% to 20%, or 1% to 8%). The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. As can be appreciated, suitable fatty alcohols may be of natural, vegetable, or synthetic origin. In some embodiments, it may be desirable to blend several fatty alcohols, such as, for example, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in a ratio of 20:80 to 80:20, to provide a dispersed gel network phase having a melting transition temperature of about 38°C or higher. Some non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols suitable for use herein include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, C 21 Fatty alcohol (1-heneicosanol), C 23 Fatty alcohol (1-tricosanol), C 24 Fatty alcohols (lignoceryl alcohol, 1-tetracosanol), C 26 Aliphatic alcohol (1-hexacosanol), C 28 Fatty alcohol (1-octacosanol), C 30 Fatty alcohol (1-triacontanol), C 20~40 Alcohol (e.g., Performacol® 350 Alcohol and 425 Alcohol available from New Phase Technologies), C 30~50 Alcohol (e.g., Performacol® 550 Alcohol), C 40~60 Alcohols (eg, Performacol® 700 Alcohol), as well as mixtures thereof.
[0044] Gel Network Surfactant The gel network phase may comprise from 0.01% to 15% by weight of the composition (e.g., from 0.1% to about 10%, from 0.2% to about 5% by weight). The gel network surfactant may be combined with the fatty alcohol and liquid carrier to form a gel network premix, which may then be added to the other ingredients of the personal care composition.
[0045] In some embodiments, the total weight of the gel network surfactant and fatty alcohol is from 0.5% to about 15% (e.g., from 1% to 10%) by weight of the personal care composition. In some embodiments, the gel network surfactant may be included in the gel network at any desired weight ratio to the fatty alcohol. For example, the ratio of fatty alcohol to gel network surfactant may be from 1:5 to 100:1 (e.g., from 1:1 to 40:1, from 2:1 to 20:1, or from 3:1 to 10:1).
[0046] The gel network surfactant can be any suitable anionic surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, cationic surfactant, and nonionic surfactant that is substantially sulfate-free. The detersive surfactant and gel network surfactant can each be independently selected and can be the same or different. In some embodiments, the gel network surfactant has a hydrophobic end group with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms. The hydrophobic end group can be alkyl, alkenyl (containing up to three double bonds), alkylaromatic, or branched alkyl. Mixtures of more than one gel network surfactant can also be used. Some non-limiting examples of gel network surfactants are disclosed in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2006 / 0024256.
[0047] Liquid carrier for the gel network phase In some embodiments, the dispersed gel network phase may comprise a suitable liquid carrier at 0.05% to 95% by weight of the personal care composition. The liquid carrier may be water or another suitable solvent. The carrier and gel network surfactant may be selected to work together to swell the fatty alcohol, which results in the formation and stability of the gel network phase. A suitable solvent is any solvent that can be used in place of or in combination with water in the formation of the gel network phase. In some embodiments, the liquid carrier may be substantially free of solvents other than water. In some embodiments, the liquid carrier for the dispersed gel network phase may be present in a weight ratio of about 1:1 relative to the fatty alcohol of the dispersed gel network phase.
[0048] Carrier Liquid Carrier: The personal care compositions herein may comprise 20% to 95% (e.g., 60% to about 85%) of a liquid carrier. The liquid carrier may be separated from the liquid carrier in a dispersed gel network phase. The type and amount of liquid carrier should be selected to provide a composition with desired rheological properties. The liquid carrier may be water or a miscible mixture of water and an organic solvent. In some embodiments, the liquid carrier may be water with little or no organic solvent (e.g., less than 5%, 3%, 1%, 0.5%, or even 0%). Suitable organic solvents may include aqueous solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols. Useful lower alkyl alcohols include monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Exemplary polyhydric alcohols include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propanediol.
[0049] Other optional ingredients The personal care compositions described herein may contain various optional ingredients to tailor the properties and characteristics of the composition as needed. Optional ingredients may be well-known materials commonly included in compositions of this type. Optional components should be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components of the personal care composition and should not otherwise unduly impair the stability, aesthetics, or performance of the composition. Individual concentrations of optional components may generally range from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of the personal care composition.
[0050] Non-limiting examples of other optional ingredients that may be included in the personal care compositions herein include: co-surfactants, deposition aids, cationic polymers, conditioning agents (including hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters, silicones), anti-dandruff agents, antimicrobial agents, suspending agents, viscosity modifiers, dyes, pigments, non-volatile solvents or diluents (water soluble and insoluble), pearlizing aids, foam boosters, pediculicides, pH adjusters, fragrances, preservatives, chelating agents, proteins, vitamins, amino acids, skin active agents, sunscreens, ultraviolet light absorbers, stabilizers, and combinations thereof.
[0051] multiphase composition In some embodiments, the personal care composition may be in the form of a multi-phase composition. For example, a first phase of the composition may comprise a conventional personal care ingredient, such as a structured surfactant, and a second phase may comprise a benefit phase. Methods for making multi-phase personal care compositions are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 8,653,014.
[0052] Methods for Making Personal Care Compositions The personal care compositions described herein can be made using conventional methods for making the desired type of composition (e.g., shampoo, conditioner, or body wash). In some aspects, the compositions can be made by (a) combining a fatty alcohol, a gel network surfactant, and water at a temperature sufficient to allow partitioning of the secondary surfactant and water into the fatty alcohol to form a premix, (b) cooling the premix below the chain melting temperature of the fatty alcohol to form a gel network, and (c) adding the gel network to one or more detersive surfactants and a liquid carrier to form a personal care composition comprising a dispersed gel network phase having a melting transition temperature of at least about 38°C.
[0053] In some embodiments, the gel network phase can be prepared by heating and mixing a fatty alcohol, a gel network surfactant, and water to a level ranging from about 75° C. to about 90° C. The mixture can be cooled (e.g., by passing the mixture through a heat exchanger) to 27-35° C. As a result of this cooling step, at least about 50 percent of the mixture of a fatty alcohol and a gel network surfactant crystallizes to form a crystalline gel network.
[0054] Other methods of preparing the gel network phase include heating the fatty alcohol, gel network surfactant, and water while sonicating and / or milling these components to reduce the particle size of the dispersed gel network phase. This increases the surface area of the gel network phase and allows the gel network surfactant and water to swell the gel network phase. Another variation for preparing the gel network involves first heating and mixing the fatty alcohol and gel network surfactant, and then adding this mixture to water.
[0055] How to use The personal care compositions described herein can be used in a conventional manner to cleanse and condition hair or skin. An effective amount of the composition for use generally ranges from 1 g to 50 g (e.g., 1 g to about 20 g). Generally, a method of treating hair or skin can include applying the personal care composition to the hair or skin. For example, an effective amount of the personal care composition can be applied to hair or skin that has been wetted with water, and the composition can then be rinsed off. Application to hair typically involves working the composition through the hair so that most or all of the hair comes into contact with the composition. The personal care composition can be used as a liquid, solid, semi-solid, flake, gel in a pressurized container with an added propellant, or in the form of a pump-action spray. The viscosity of the product can be selected to correspond to the desired form.
[0056] In some embodiments, a method for treating hair or skin may include the steps of: (a) wetting the hair or skin with water; (b) applying an effective amount of a personal care composition to the hair or skin; and (c) rinsing the applied skin or hair with water. These steps can be repeated as many times as desired to achieve the desired cleansing and conditioning benefits.
[0057] method Blender whipping volume method This method can be used to evaluate foam characteristics that consumers associate with the quality of shampoo products. This method is described in detail in Klein, Ken, "Evaluating Shampoo Foam," Cosmetic & Toiletries, Vol. 119, No. 10, pp. 32-35, 2004.
[0058] One gram of shampoo product is added to 39 grams of deionized water (DI water) at room temperature. The solution is carefully poured into a single-speed Magic Bullet MB1001 blender (or equivalent) to minimize the introduction of air bubbles and agitated for 10 seconds. The foam is then poured into a 250 mL graduated cylinder and the foam volume is measured and recorded. Optionally, after 3.5 minutes, foam stability can be assessed by recording the position of the foam / water interface (drainage). In this method, foam drainage accounts for the flow of liquid through the foam caused by weakening of the foam layer. A higher foam drainage rate corresponds to a more unstable foam.
[0059] Foam Height and Creaminess Method The foaming ability of shampoo does not directly affect the physical behavior of hair fibers. However, shampoo lather can affect user perception or hair properties. In some cases, it may be useful to distinguish between lather and foam for shampoo evaluation. In particular, lather can generally refer to a mass of air bubbles in a liquid film matrix, while lather more specifically refers to the type of foam formed during shampooing and other processes, where lather is composed of small air bubbles that are tightly packed and therefore resist flow.
[0060] This method simulates the foam generated by surfactants when applied to hair under typical shampoo conditions and provides a way to quantify specific foam characteristics. Oil (e.g., sebum) and dirt are among the two most common contaminants found on hair that can have an undesirable effect on shampoo foam properties. Therefore, this method can be used to evaluate the effect of oil and dirt on foam properties.
[0061] Oil foam height method and foam creaminess method Place 100 mL of water (at 100°F) into a suitable blender (e.g., a KitchenAid KSB560CU1 brand food mixer or equivalent), followed by 2 mL of the test composition and 1 mL of extra virgin olive oil. The mixture is mixed on "stir" for 30 seconds and the foam height in mm is recorded.
[0062] To assess creaminess, the foam is poured into a suitable bowl and visually inspected. Based on the visual inspection, the creaminess of the foam is rated from 0 to 5, with 0 being not creamy at all (bad) and 5 being very creamy (good).
[0063] Soil foam height method 300 mL of water (at 100°F) is placed in a suitable blender (e.g., a KitchenAid KSB560CU1 brand food mixer or equivalent), followed by 3 mL of the test composition and 2 grams of potting soil (e.g., MIRACLE GRO brand potting soil or equivalent). The mixture is mixed on "stir" for 15 seconds and the foam height in mm is recorded.
[0064] Wet Hair In-Lab Screening (ILS) Method This method can be used to determine the cleaning and / or conditioning properties of hair care compositions. In this method, 20 g of Caucasian Low Lift Hair Tresses (International Hair Importers and Products, Inc., Glendale, New York, USA) are moistened with water, treated with a test composition, and placed in an ILS sink. The sink has a salon spray head / hose that is held in place, but can be oriented to direct water onto a hair tress hanging from a rod placed above the sink. The tress can be added and removed from the water as needed. The water is maintained at a temperature of approximately 38°C and a flow rate of approximately 5.7 liters / minute. The method is as follows: · Calibrate the ILS sink to 38°C. Hang the hairpiece on the rod in the sink. Wet the hair tress thoroughly for 30 seconds. Using your index and middle fingers ("scissor fingers"), squeegee the tress switch from top to bottom once to remove excess water ("squeegeeing" means clamping the tress at the top between your index and middle fingers and stroking down once to remove water). 0.1 g / g (product / hair) of the test composition is applied to the front of the hair switch from top to bottom. Milk the hair switch for 15 seconds, then flip the bottom of the switch upside down and milk for another 15 seconds. By "milk" we mean grabbing the top of the switch and stroking it downwards while alternating hands to create a lather. Assess the ease of application (within the first 5 strokes). Start at the top just below the ponytail where the hair lies flat. Slide your fingers from top to bottom. Your fingers may be slowed by resistance to skipping the hairpiece. Scale: 0 = no slippage to 10 = very slippery. Evaluate foam creaminess (appearance and feel, after 30 seconds of whipping). Scale: 0 = no creaminess to 10 = very creamy. Optionally compare to blender whipped creaminess. Evaluate lather combability (there is still lather in the switch). Using minimal pressure, comb from beginning to end of hair (starting from the top) and then comb through the entire hair switch (combing from top to bottom) using minimal amount of force. Scale: 0 = difficult to comb to 10 = easy to comb. Rinse for 30 seconds (squeezing the hairpiece gently). -Evaluate the slippery feeling during rinsing (average rating during rinsing). Scale: 0 = not slippery to 10 = very slippery. Squeegee the hair piece once with the fingers of the scissors. Evaluate the smooth feeling after rinsing. Wipe once and evaluate the feel. Scale: 0 = not slippery to 10 = very slippery. Assess the clean feeling after rinsing. Stroke hair from top to bottom using medium pressure between your thumb and two fingers. Judge how clean or dirty the hair feels. Scale: 0 = low (dirty) to 10 = high (clean). Assess combing after rinsing. Using the least pressure possible, comb (wide tooth side) through the hair from start to finish (front to back) and the least amount of force (top to bottom) through the entire hair switch. Scale: 0=hard to 10=easy. [Example]
[0065] Example 1: Examples of shampoo formulations and surfactant performance This example provides the exemplary formulation of the rhamnolipid surfactant herein and demonstrates its ability to provide suitable foaming and cleaning performance.Comparative composition and the composition of the present invention are tested for their ability to provide good foam volume, height and creaminess, which are well known as shampoo properties.The shampoo properties summarized in Table 3 are measured according to the method described above.
[0066] Table 1 provides five examples of comparative shampoo formulations (C1-C5) and six examples of inventive shampoo formulations (Inv 1-6). Comparative Example 1 is a conventional sulfate-free shampoo composition that does not contain a glycolipid surfactant. Comparative Examples C2-C5 each contain a commercially available di-rhamno-di-lipid surfactant mixture. Inventive Examples 1-6 contain a mono-rhamno-mono-lipid surfactant (Rha-C). 10 , Rha-C 11 , Rha-C 12 , or Rha-C 13 Example 4 of the present invention includes Rha-C 10 , Rha-C 12 and the mixture of di-rhamno-di-lipid surfactants used in C2 and C3. The amount of rhamnolipid surfactant shown in Table 1 is the amount of active agent present in the composition.
[0067] The compositions in Table 1 can be made by adding deionized water to a mixing vessel and heating to 75°C ± 3°C while stirring. For compositions C1, C2, and Inv 1 containing sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) and / or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SLS), the anionic surfactant is added to the mixing vessel and mixed until completely dissolved (no visible particles remain and the batch is clear). After SCI and / or SLS are completely dissolved, the following materials can be added to the mixing vessel: sodium benzoate, tetrasodium EDTA, sodium salicylate, alkylamidopropyl betaine, and rhamnolipid. The contents of the vessel are mixed for at least 10 minutes and then cooled to below 35°C. A polyquaternium-10 slurry is made with water and immediately added to the mixing vessel and mixed for 10 minutes. Fragrance can be added to the mixture and mixed for at least 2 minutes. Titrate the mixture with sodium hydroxide until the desired pH is reached. Add deionized water to bring the final volume to 100%. Mix the mixture for at least 10 minutes until homogeneity is achieved.
[0068] For the remaining compositions (i.e., C3-C5 and Inv 2-Inv 6), deionized water is added to a mixing vessel and heated to 75°C ± 3°C while stirring. Next, the following materials are added to the mixing vessel: sodium benzoate, tetrasodium EDTA, sodium salicylate, alkylamidopropyl betaine, and rhamnolipid. The contents of the vessel are mixed for at least 10 minutes. The batch is then cooled to below 35°C. A polyquaternium-10 slurry is made in water and immediately added to the mixing vessel and mixed for 10 minutes. The fragrance is then added to the mixture and mixed for at least 2 minutes. The mixture is titrated with sodium hydroxide until the desired pH is reached. Bring the final volume to 100% with deionized water. The mixture is mixed for at least 10 minutes until homogeneity is achieved.
[0069] [Table 1] 1 Evonik Rheance® One brand rhamnolipid (approximately 50% active) 2 Bio-RL1™ brand rhamnolipids from Wanhua Carfil (approximately 38% active) 3 REnuva™ RL-50 brand rhamnolipids (approximately 50% active) from BioReNuva 4 GlycoSurf, Utah (~100% active) * Significant difference compared to the comparative example using conventional rhamnolipid surfactant
[0070] As can be seen in Table 1, the compositions of the present invention performed better than the comparative compositions at both low surfactant levels (0.6%) and high surfactant levels (8.5%). Surprisingly, the conventional rhamnolipid surfactants and Rha-C 10 and Rha-C 12 Inv 4, which contains a blend of, performed better than the comparative examples and some of the other inventive examples.
[0071] Table 2 below provides prophetic examples of compositions of the invention containing other sulfate-free surfactants. The compositions of Table 2 can be made using conventional processes as described above.
[0072] [Table 2]
[0073] [Table 3]
[0074] [Table 4]
[0075] [Table 5] 1 RHEANCE ONE brand glycolipid surfactant (approximately 50% active). 2 Rha-C10 (approximately 100% active) from GlycoSurf, Utah. 3 Rha-C11 (approximately 100% active) from GlycoSurf, Utah. 4 Rha-C12 (approximately 100% active) from GlycoSurf, Utah.
[0076] Example 3: Lather Synergy This example shows Rha-C 10 Surfactant, Rha-C 12 We demonstrate the unexpected foam volume synergy exhibited by shampoos containing a mixture of surfactants and conventional rhamnolipid surfactants. 10 and Rha-C 12 Surfactants are generally undesirable for use in conventional shampoos, so they tend to be treated as specialty ingredients that are more expensive than conventional glycolipid surfactants. 10 and Rha-C 12 Blending surfactants with conventional glycolipid surfactants can reduce shampoo manufacturing costs and provide superior foam volume.
[0077] This example shows various levels of Rha-C 10 , Rha-C 12 Three legs (A-C) of compositions with a conventional glycolipid surfactant (RHEANCE ONE from Evonik) are tested. The test compositions are simple solutions of water and surfactant. Lather volumes were measured according to the Lather Volume Method described above. The lather volumes recorded for each data point are summarized in Table 3 and shown in the figure.
[0078] [Table 6]
[0079] As can be seen from Table 3 and the figure, Rha-C in composition A 10 , Rha-C 12 The combination of Rha-C and a conventional glycolipid surfactant unexpectedly provided better foam volume than compositions B and C. In particular, provided composition A provided Rha-C 10 Against Rha-C 12 The ratio of Rha-C is 1:1. 10 +Rha-C 12 vs. conventional rhamnolipids or Rha-C 12 A single ratio of 1:3 to 1:0 appeared to provide unexpectedly good lather volume.
[0080] Examples / Combinations 1. Rha-C 10 , Rha-C 11 , Rha-C 12 , Rha-C 13 and a rhamnolipid surfactant selected from the group consisting of an additional surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and combinations thereof, wherein the additional surfactant is sulfate-free. 2. Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 10. The surfactant system of paragraph 1 comprising a surfactant. 3. Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 The surfactant is Rha-C in a ratio of 1:10 to 10:1, preferably 1:5 to 5:1, more preferably 1:2 to 2:1, and most preferably 1:1. 12 3. The surfactant system of paragraph 2, wherein the surfactant system is present in a weight ratio of Rha-C10 to Rha-C10. 4. Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 The surfactant system of paragraph 2 or 3, wherein the surfactant comprises from 1 wt % to 80 wt %, preferably from 3 wt % to 50 wt %, of the total surfactant in the personal care composition. 5. The surfactant system of any of paragraphs 1 to 4, further comprising less than 5.3% of a di-rhamnolipid surfactant and a mono-rhamno-di-lipid surfactant. 6. a) 25% to 75% by weight of the surfactant system, Rha-C 10 , Rha-C 11 , Rha-C 12 , Rha-C 13 and a rhamnolipid surfactant selected from the group consisting of 6. The surfactant system of any one of paragraphs 1 to 5, comprising: b) 25% to 75% by weight of the surfactant system of a di-rhamno-di-lipid surfactant, wherein the surfactants in i) and the surfactants in ii) exhibit synergistic lather volumes according to a lather discharge method. 7. A surfactant system according to paragraph 6, wherein the rhamnolipid surfactant in i) and the di-rhamno-di-lipid surfactant in ii) provide synergistic lather volume according to the Blender Lather Volume Method. 8. The surfactant system of any of paragraphs 1 to 7, wherein the additional surfactant is selected from cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, lauroamphoacetate, lauroamphodiacetate, amidobetaine, amidosulfobetaine, hydroxysultaine, isethionate, sarcosinate, sulfonate, taurate, alaninate, glycinate, glutamate, sulfosuccinate, and mixtures thereof. 9. a) a surfactant system according to any of paragraphs 1 to 8; b) a dermatologically acceptable carrier. 10. The composition of paragraph 9, wherein the composition exhibits a foam height of at least 140 according to the Oil Foam Height Method. 11. The composition of paragraph 9 or 10, wherein the composition exhibits a foam height of at least 55 according to the Soil Foam Height Method. 11. The composition of paragraph 9 or 10, further comprising less than 12.1% of an inorganic salt. 13. The composition of any one of paragraphs 9 to 12, further comprising a dispersed gel network. 14. The composition of paragraph 13, wherein the gel network comprises a fatty alcohol, a gel network surfactant, and a liquid carrier, and the fatty alcohol is in the form of liquid crystal droplets. 15. The composition of paragraphs 13 or 14, wherein the dispersed gel network comprises 0.05% by weight or more of a fatty alcohol and 0.01% by weight or more of a gel network surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. 16. The composition of any one of paragraphs 9 to 15, further comprising a cationic polymer. 17. A method of cleaning a target body surface, comprising: wetting the target body surface with water; applying 1 to 50 g of the personal care composition of any one of paragraphs 9 to 16 to a wet body surface; working the composition onto a wet body surface to generate a lather; and rinsing the composition from the target body surface with water. 18. Surfactant system is Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 18. The method of paragraph 17, comprising a surfactant. 19. Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 The surfactant is Rha-C in a ratio of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2:1 to 1:2, more preferably 1:1. 12 Rha-C against 10 19. The method of paragraph 18, wherein the compound is present in a weight ratio of 20. Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 20. The method of paragraph 18 or 19, wherein the surfactant comprises from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 3% to 50% by weight, of the total surfactant in the personal care composition. 21. The method of any one of paragraphs 17 to 20, wherein the rhamnolipid surfactant(s) have an HLB of 4 to 15.
[0081] The dimensions and values disclosed herein should not be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise indicated, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm."
[0082] All documents cited herein, including cross-referenced or related patents or applications, are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety, unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document shall not be deemed to be prior art to any invention disclosed or claimed herein, or that it alone, or in combination with any other reference(s), teaches, suggests, or discloses any such invention. Furthermore, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall control.
[0083] While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
Claims
1. Rha-C 10 , Rha-C 11 , Rha-C 12 , Rha-C 13 and a rhamnolipid surfactant selected from the group consisting of an additional surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and combinations thereof, wherein the additional surfactant is sulfate-free.
2. Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 The surfactant system of claim 1 comprising a surfactant.
3. The Rha-C 10 Surfactant and Rha-C 12 The surfactant is Rha-C in a ratio of 1:10 to 10:1, preferably 1:5 to 5:1, more preferably 1:2 to 2:1, and most preferably 1:
1. 12 3. The surfactant system of claim 2, wherein the surfactant system is present in a weight ratio of Rha-C10 to
4. The Rha-C 10 Surfactants and Rha-C 12 4. A surfactant system according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the surfactant comprises from 1% to 80% by weight of the total surfactant in the surfactant system, preferably from 3% to 50% by weight.
5. 5. A surfactant system according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising less than 3% of a di-rhamnolipid surfactant and a mono-rhamno-di-lipid surfactant.
6. 6. The surfactant system of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the additional surfactant is selected from cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, lauroamphoacetate, lauroamphodiacetate, amidobetaine, amidosulfobetaine, hydroxysultaine, isethionate, sarcosinate, sulfonate, taurate, alaninate, glycinate, glutamate, sulfosuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
7. A surfactant system according to any one of claims 1 to 6, a dermatologically acceptable carrier; 1. A personal care composition comprising:
8. 8. The composition of claim 7, further comprising a dispersed gel network.
9. 9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the gel network comprises a fatty alcohol, a gel network surfactant, and a liquid carrier, the fatty alcohol being in the form of liquid crystal droplets.
10. 10. The composition of claim 8 or 9, wherein the dispersed gel network comprises about 0.05% by weight or more of a fatty alcohol and about 0.01% by weight or more of a gel network surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to any one of claims 7 to 10, further comprising a cationic polymer.
12. The composition of any one of claims 7 to 11, further comprising less than about 1% of an inorganic salt.
13. The composition of any one of claims 7 to 12, wherein the composition exhibits a foam height of at least about 50 according to the Oil Foam Height Method.
14. The surfactant system of any one of claims 7 to 13, wherein the composition exhibits a suds height of at least about 150 according to the Soil Lather Height Method.
15. 1. A method for cleaning a target body surface, comprising: wetting the target body surface with water; applying from about 1 to about 50 g of the personal care composition of any one of claims 7 to 14 to the wetted body surface; working the composition onto the wetted body surface to generate a lather; rinsing the composition from the target body surface with water; A method comprising:
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