Solid composition containing natural dyes and makeup method using the same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances such as skin and / or lips, (A) at least one natural dye selected from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof; (B) at least one first compound, which is solid at 25°C, selected from polyesters obtained from dimers of at least monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms; The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising (C) nonpolar hydrocarbon oils; silicone oils; liquid polyesters obtained from dimers of monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids contain 16 to 22 carbon atoms; esters, ethers, or carbonate hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned liquid polyesters, which do not contain free hydroxyl groups; vegetable oils other than castor oil and lechesterella oil; and at least one volatile or non-volatile first oil selected from mixtures thereof. The present invention also relates to a makeup method comprising applying such a composition.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition for makeup and / or care of skin or lips, comprising at least one natural dye or dye derived from nature, and at least one solid compound obtained from a dimer of a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acid. [Background technology]

[0002] Makeup compositions typically contain synthetic colorants that are soluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition, or alternatively, naturally derived colorants dispersed in the medium of the composition, such as pearlescent agents. However, the situation becomes more complex when it is desired to use natural dyes, such as anthocyanins, either as a single dye or in significant amounts compared to other colorants. This is because the colors of these substances are usually pH-sensitive, and when these dyes are used in sufficient quantities, for example, when applied to a support such as the lips, they can cause undesirable changes in the color of the composition. Furthermore, in even more specific cases of anthocyanin-type natural dyes, since the majority of these dyes are soluble in water, using them in a buffered aqueous phase is not a suitable solution. In practice, extremely dark deposits that are no longer usable are observed. [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0003] Accordingly, one object of the present invention is to propose a solid composition for makeup and / or care of human keratin substances, more particularly skin and lips, comprising at least one natural dye selected from anthocyanins, wherein the color does not change significantly, even when these colors are used as sole dyes or as primary dyes. [Means for solving the problem]

[0004] Therefore, the object of the present invention is a solid composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances such as skin and / or lips, preferably lips, (A) at least one natural dye selected from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof; (B) at least one first compound, which is solid at 25°C, selected from polyesters obtained from dimers of at least monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms; (C) Nonpolar hydrocarbon oils; silicone oils; liquid polyesters obtained from dimers of monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids contain 16 to 22 carbon atoms; ester hydrocarbon oils, ether hydrocarbon oils, or carbonate hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned liquid polyesters, which do not contain free hydroxyl groups; vegetable oils other than castor oil and resquerella oil; and at least one volatile or nonvolatile first oil selected from mixtures thereof. It is a solid composition containing [a certain substance].

[0005] The subject of the present invention is also a method for applying makeup to skin and / or lips, particularly keratinous substances such as lips, comprising applying compositions as described above. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0006] Procedure for measuring color changes The composition was applied to the bare lips of six subjects, ensuring even coverage (more specifically, 2-3 back-and-forth motions on the upper lip and 2-3 back-and-forth motions on the lower lip; if the composition was not in stick form, it was applied with a finger or applicator; the upper lip was made up without replenishing with intermediate products to similarly apply makeup to the lower lip).

[0007] Next, the color of the made-up lips is measured using a Chromalys Samba-Shiva chromatosphere (SAMBA polarizing camera; resolution 410 x 410 pixels) according to the method described in French Patent No. 2829344. *Immediately after application, i.e., 3-5 minutes after application *Do not eat or drink between application and measurement; measure 1 hour after application.

[0008] The color coordinates L*, a*, and b* are measured in CIELab space 76 (light source D65).

[0009] To evaluate the change in color, ΔE was calculated for each object according to the ISO 11664-6:2014 standard (specification for the method of calculating color difference according to formula CIEDE2000). 2000 Calculate the result and then calculate the average of the six values.

[0010] The composition is measured immediately after application and at ΔE 1 hour later. 2000 If the average value is 2 or less, more specifically 1.5 or less, and even more specifically 1 or less, then it is considered that there is no change in color.

[0011] The composition according to the present invention is in solid form. The term "solid composition" means a composition that does not flow under its own weight after 1 hour at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. Therefore, the composition may be in solid form in a jar or pallet, or in rod form.

[0012] Procedure for measuring the hardness of a rod-shaped composition The rod-shaped composition is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring its hardness.

[0013] The measurement is performed at 20°C and involves cutting the product rod (preferably cylindrical) in the lateral direction by moving a 250 μm diameter rigid tungsten wire relative to the rod at a speed of 100 mm / min.

[0014] Hardness of a sample of the composition of the present invention (Nm -1Measure the one represented by ( ) using the DFGS2 tensile testing instrument sold by Indelco-Chatillon.

[0015] Repeat the measurement three times and then average it. The average (represented by Y) of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above is shown in grams. Convert this average to newtons and then divide by L (which represents the maximum value of the distance through which the wire passed). In the case of a cylindrical rod, L corresponds to the diameter (in meters). Calculate the hardness using the following formula: (Y × 10 -3 × 9.8) / L, and convert it to Nm -1 units.

[0016] According to this measurement method, when the composition according to the present invention is in solid form, its hardness at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure is advantageously 80 - 200 Nm -1 , preferably 100 - 200 Nm -1 , more specifically 100 - 150 Nm -1 , or even 130 Nm -1 .

[0017] Natural dyes or dyes (A) of natural origin <( The composition according to the present invention contains at least one dye selected from specific natural compounds.

[0018] "Natural compounds" are understood to mean compounds directly obtained from the ground or soil, or from plants or animals, optionally through one or more physical methods such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification, or filtration, or alternatively obtained from biotechnological methods, specifically from microbial or cell cultures, for example from fungi or bacteria.

[0019] A “naturally derived” compound is understood to mean a natural compound that has undergone one or more supplemental chemical or industrial treatments that alter the fundamental properties of the compound, and / or a compound that primarily contains natural components that may or may not have undergone such alterations. Non-limiting examples of supplemental chemical or industrial treatments that alter the fundamental properties of a natural compound include those permitted by regulatory bodies such as COSMOS (Reference system for cosmetic, biological and ecological product, version 3.1 of 1 June 2020), or as defined in AFNOR standard 16-128, where applicable.

[0020] The terms "dye" and, more generally, "water-soluble compound" refer to a dye or compound having a solubility in water equal to at least 0.01 g / l, as measured at 25°C (producing a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution).

[0021] As previously shown, the compositions according to the present invention therefore comprise at least one natural dye or dye derived from nature, selected from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof.

[0022] Regarding proanthocyanidins, in particular, proanthocyanidins A1, A2, B1, B2, B3, and C1 may be suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0023] Regarding anthocyanins, these are substituted glycoside salts and acyl glycosides of 2-phenylbenzopyrlium.

[0024] Anthocyanidins are aglycone anthocyanin compounds.

[0025] The basic structure of anthocyanidins consists of a chroman nucleus (C6 ring A and C3 ring C) with a second aromatic ring (C6 ring B) at the 2-position, as shown in the following formula: [Chemical formula 1] [ka] 1. Pelargonium (Pg): R3=OH; R5=OH; R6=H; R7=OH; R 3’ =H;R 4’ =OH;R 5’ =H 2. Cyanidin (Cy) R3=OH;R5=OH;R6=H;R7=OH;R 3’ =OH;R 4’ =OH;R 5’ =H 3. Delphinidin (Dp) R3=OH;R5=OH;R6=H;R7=OH;R 3’ =OH;R 4’ =OH;R 5’ =OH 4. Peonidine (Pn) R3=OH;R5=OH;R6=H;R7=OH;R 3’ =OMe;R 4’ =OH;R 5’ =H 5 Petunidine (Pt) R3=OH;R5=OH;R6=H;R7=OH;R 3’ =OMe;R 4’ =OH;R 5’ =OH 6. Malvidin (Mv) R3=OH;R5=OH;R6=H;R7=OH;R 3’ =OMe;R 4’ =OH;R 5’ =OMe

[0026] Various anthocyanidins differ in the number and position of hydroxyl groups and / or methyl ether groups attached to their 3, 5, 6, 7, 3', 4', and / or 5' positions.

[0027] More than 31 monomeric anthocyanidins have been identified. However, 90% of naturally occurring anthocyanins are composed of six structures (30% cyanidin (2), 22% delphinidin (3), 18% pelargonidin (1), and the remaining 20% ​​peonidin (4), malvidin (6), and petunidine (5)).

[0028] These six anthocyanidins are the most well-known anthocyanidins.

[0029] The color of anthocyanidins depends on the number of hydroxyl groups attached to the molecule, or more specifically, the number of hydroxyl groups present in ring B.

[0030] The color of a molecule changes from orange to purple depending on the number of hydroxyl units present in its structure.

[0031] Glycosylation of anthocyanidins has the effect of promoting their red color, but the presence of aromatic or aliphatic acyl units has a decisive effect on their stability and solubility.

[0032] These dyes can be characterized in particular by the following CAS numbers: 134-01-1, 134-04-3, 528-53-0, 528-28-5, 643-84-5, 1429-30-7, 11029-12-2, etc., as defined in the “CTFA-International Color Handbook”, Third Edition, CTFA, pages 856-857.

[0033] These dyes can be found in many plants, such as chokeberries, blueberries, cranberries, purple or black carrots, blackcurrants, cherries, red cabbage, poppies, strawberries, geraniums, pomegranates, hibiscus, purple corn, bilberries, purple sweet potatoes, red radishes, black grapes, sorghum, and elderberries.

[0034] Preferably, the dye is selected from those derived from radish (INCI name: Raphanus sativus root extract) or purple sweet potato (INCI name: Ipomoea batatas root extract).

[0035] The dyes used in connection with the present invention may be in powder form, extract form, solution form, emulsion form, or dispersion form.

[0036] Among commercially available products suitable for carrying out the present invention, examples include CD Radish Red Powder C (Omya), Natpure Xfine Red Radish or Natpure Xfine Purple Sweet Potato (Sensient Cosmetic Technologies), Microzest 25 Carrot Pink (Lessonia), and New Red 1805 (Naturex).

[0037] The dyes described in International Publication No. 2017 / 162599 may also be suitable for use.

[0038] The content of natural dyes or naturally derived dyes, expressed as dye-active materials, is more specifically 0.5% to 20% by mass and 2% to 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0039] Solid polyester (B) As described above, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first compound (B) which is solid at 25°C and is selected from polyesters obtained from dimers of at least monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0040] More specifically, the polyester is an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid with a polyol or an ester thereof. The expression "or an ester thereof" is intended to mean one of the dimer dilinoleic acid ester derivatives of these polyols, obtained by either reacting the alcohol functional group of a polyol not used in the esterification bond with the acid functional group of dilinoleic acid with one or more carboxylic acid functional groups of an acid molecule other than dilinoleic acid, or by reacting the acid functional group of a dilinole dimer not used in the esterification bond with the alcohol functional group of a polyol with the alcohol functional group of an alcohol molecule other than a polyol.

[0041] More specifically, the polyester is selected from paste-like compounds. For the purposes of this invention, the term “paste-like compound” is understood more specifically to mean a lipophilic solid compound consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C. Thus, the paste-like compound may have an onset melting point below 25°C.

[0042] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a paste-like fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the DSC Q2000 sold by TA Instruments. The procedure is as follows:

[0043] A 5 mg sample of paste-like fatty material is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature increase in the range of -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase in the range of -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0044] The melting point of a paste-like fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve that represents the fluctuation of the difference in absorbed energy as a function of temperature.

[0045] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by mass of a paste-like fatty substance at ambient temperature corresponds to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the heat of fusion of the paste-like fatty substance.

[0046] The heat of fusion of a paste-like fatty substance is the heat consumed by the substance to transition from a solid state to a liquid state. A paste-like fatty substance is said to be in a solid state if the entire collection is in a crystalline solid state. A paste-like fatty substance is said to be in a liquid state if the entire collection is in a liquid state.

[0047] The heat of fusion of a paste-like fatty substance is the amount of energy required to change it from a solid state to a liquid state. This amount of energy is expressed in units of J / g. The heat of fusion of a paste-like fatty substance corresponds to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0048] Dimer dilinoleic acid Dimer dilinoleic acid suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained by polymerization, specifically by dimerization of linoleic acid molecules.

[0049] The oxidative stability of a compound can be improved by hydrogenating the remaining double bond after a dimerization reaction.

[0050] Dimer dilinoleic acid can also be obtained by dimerizing hydrogenated linoleic acid.

[0051] The hydrogenated form of an acid or diacid may be partial or whole, and may, for example, correspond to a saturated form that is more oxidatively stable.

[0052] As shown above, the carboxylic acid functional group of a dimer dilinoleic acid residue that is not involved in ester bonding with a polyol residue may be involved in other ester bonding with other alcohol functional groups of alcohol molecules other than polyols.

[0053] These alcohol molecules or residues may be monoalcohols or polyols.

[0054] Examples of alcohol residues suitable for use in the present invention include hydrocarbon compounds that contain a hydroxyl functional group and contain 4 to 40 carbon atoms, more specifically 6 to 36 carbon atoms, more specifically 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more specifically 16 to 28 carbon atoms, and more specifically 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0055] Examples of monoalcohols suitable for the present invention include, but not limited to, butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, cetol, behenol, and the like.

[0056] polyol The term "polyol" is intended to mean any hydrocarbon compound that contains at least two hydroxyl functional groups and contains 3 to 40 carbon atoms, more specifically 6 to 36 carbon atoms, more specifically 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more specifically 16 to 28 carbon atoms, and more specifically 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0057] The hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted as needed by the presence of at least one heteroatom, specifically an oxygen atom.

[0058] Suitable polyols or polyol esters for use in the present invention may contain, for example, 2 to 12 hydroxyl functional groups, more specifically 2 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups, and more specifically 4 to 6 hydroxyl functional groups.

[0059] If necessary, hydroxyl functional groups other than those already used in the ester bond with dimer dilinoleic acid may also be used whole or partially in other ester bonds for reactivity with acid molecules other than dimer dilinoleic acid.

[0060] Suitable polyols or esters thereof for use in the present invention can be specifically selected from linear, branched, cyclic, or polycyclic saturated or unsaturated alcohols.

[0061] Therefore, the polyol can be selected from, for example, diols, triols, tetraols, or pentaols, or their esters.

[0062] The polyol may be a diol or an ester thereof, and is more specifically selected from dimers of fatty alcohols, C2-C4 monoalkylenes or polyalkylene glycols, 1,4-butanediol, and pentaerythritol. The polyol may also be monoglycerol or polyglycerol or an ester thereof, or hydrogenated or unhydrogenated castor oil (a triglyceride of a hydroxylated acid).

[0063] Furthermore, examples of diols suitable for use in the present invention include, but not limited to, butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol, and xylene glycol, as well as their isomers.

[0064] Fatty alcohol dimers also contain unsaturated fatty acids, specifically C8-C8. 34 Specifically, C 12 ~C 22 For details, see C16 ~C 20 For more details, see C 18 The product may be the hydrogenation of a fatty acid dimer obtained by dimerization itself, for example, a catalytic hydrogenation product.

[0065] According to certain embodiments, fatty alcohol dimers can be diol dimers derived from the hydrogenation of dilinol diacitol. These are generally in a saturated form.

[0066] Preferably, the polyol is a fatty alcohol dimer, such as a dilinoleol dimer (dimer dilinoleyl alcohol: INCI name).

[0067] A specific example of a diol that may be suitable for use in the present invention is diglycerol. This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two glycerol molecules, which results in the loss of a water molecule. The term “diglycerol” means any combination of isomers that may result from such condensation, such as linear isomers, branched isomers, and optionally cyclic isomers resulting from intramolecular dehydration of the diglycerol molecule. Diglycerol can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art, specifically by the method described in European Patent No. 0750848.

[0068] Examples of acid molecules that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functional groups of a polyol and are not used in esterification with dimer dilinoleic acid include, non-limitingly, molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytosteric acid, stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, or cetyl acid.

[0069] Suitable esters for use in the present invention can be obtained by reacting a polyol or its ester with dimer dilinoleic acid in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2 to 1.0.

[0070] Esters that may be suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained by reacting dimer dilinoleic acid with at least one additional monoalcohol selected, optionally, in particular from behenol, isostearol, sterol, in particular from phytosterol, stearol, cetol, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Therefore, the esters used in connection with the present invention may be used, for example, in the form of a mixture of various esters.

[0072] Suitable esters for the present invention can be obtained, for example, by reacting glycerol, isostearic acid, and dimer dilinoleic acid in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2 to 1.0:0.5 to 0.9.

[0073] Examples of esters of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof that are suitable for the present invention include the esters described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2003-226609, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2004-256515, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2005-179377, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 2011-020933.

[0074] The first solid or paste-like compound (B) is more specifically selected from compounds having the following INCI names: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, diglycerin / dilinoleic acid / hydroxystearate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate and phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate compounds are, in detail, marketed by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. under the names Plandool G, Plandool H, and Plandool S.

[0076] Hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate and diglycerin / dilinoleic acid / hydroxystearate copolymer compounds are, in detail, sold by Higher Alcohol Industries Co., Ltd. under the names Risocast DA-H or DA-L, or Risocast HSDA.

[0077] More specifically, the content of the first solid compound or paste-like compound is in the range of 10% to 35% by mass, more specifically 10% to 30% by mass, and even more specifically 15% to 30% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0078] A first oil (C) that is either volatile or non-volatile. The compositions according to the present invention also include at least one volatile or non-volatile first oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils; silicone oils; liquid polyesters obtained from dimers of monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms; ester, ether or carbonate hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned liquid polyesters and which do not contain free hydroxyl groups; vegetable oils other than castor oil; and mixtures thereof.

[0079] The term "oil" refers to oil at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 In Pa, it refers to a liquid, water-immiscible, lipophilic compound.

[0080] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is not zero, but less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa. For example, vapor pressure may be measured by static methods or by isothermal thermogravimetric effusion methods, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).

[0081] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil that has a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, specifically in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, more specifically up to 13,000 Pa, and more specifically up to 1,300 Pa.

[0082] Non-volatile oil Nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils Therefore, the first oil can be selected from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils.

[0083] Linear or branched non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils are, more specifically, compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, hydrocarbon-type non-volatile oils).

[0084] The aforementioned straight-chain or branched nonpolar oils may be of mineral, plant, or synthetic origin, for example: - Liquid paraffin, - More specifically, plant-derived squalane, - Isoeikosan, - Saturated linear hydrocarbons, more specifically C 15 ~C 28 A mixture whose INCI name is, for example: C15-C19 alkanes (INCI name), C18-C21 alkanes (INCI name), C21-C28 alkanes (INCI name), for example, Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC. - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example, products of the Indopol series sold by Ineos Oligomers. - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example, non-volatile compounds in the Parleam® series sold by NOF Corporation. - Hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polydecene, e.g., non-volatile compounds in the Puresyn® series sold by ExxonMobil. - and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Non-volatile silicone oil The first non-volatile oil may also be selected from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils.

[0086] For the purposes of this invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0087] More specifically, the silicone oil does not contain (poly)alkoxylated groups, in particular, for example, (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0088] More specifically, the phenylized or non-phenylized non-volatile silicone oils are selected from dimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0089] These phenyl silicones include, in particular, those marketed by Dow Corning under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyltrimethicone); diphenyldimethicone, for example, products marketed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A; and products marketed by Wacker Chemie as Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 (trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone) (alone or in mixtures), where the numbers in parentheses indicate viscosity at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0090] Liquid polyester As shown above, the composition may include, as the first oil (C), at least one liquid polyester obtained from a dimer of an unsaturated fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms. It should be noted that the liquid polyester is a hydrocarbon compound.

[0091] The term "liquid polyester" refers to polyester that begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at 25°C.

[0092] In relation to the present invention, the term "unsaturated fatty acid" means a carboxylic acid fatty acid containing 1 to 6 unsaturated (carbon-carbon double bonds).

[0093] Representative examples of these unsaturated fatty acids include, in particular, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassic acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Dimers of unsaturated fatty acids are obtained, more specifically, by intermolecular polymerization reactions of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, particularly dimerization reactions. These dimers are obtained, more specifically, from unsaturated fatty acids, particularly C 16 ~C 22 Fatty acids, more specifically C 18 It is derived from the dimerization of fatty acids.

[0095] Advantageously, the liquid polyester used in the present invention is obtained from a dimethyl dimer obtained by dimerizing linoleic acid and then optionally hydrogenating all or part, preferably all, of the carbon-carbon bonds.

[0096] Dimers may also be obtained from mixtures containing them. In such cases, it is preferable to use a mixture in which the content of the dimers is more than 70% by mass, more specifically more than 90% by mass, or even more preferably more than 95% by mass, the remainder of the mixture may optionally be trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0097] Furthermore, according to the first embodiment of the present invention, the liquid polyester of the composition may be obtained by reacting the above-mentioned acid dimer with at least one C3-C4 diol, preferably linear and preferably saturated.

[0098] Preferably, the diol is 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

[0099] Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the present invention has an average molecular weight of 500 to 2000 g / mol, preferably 1000 to 2000 g / mol, and preferentially 1200 to 1800 g / mol.

[0100] More specifically, polyester has a viscosity of 3,000 to 400,000 cSt at 40°C.

[0101] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol, or by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,3-propanediol.

[0102] More specifically, we can refer to the dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H, or the dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast Green 3000.

[0103] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the liquid polyester of the composition according to the present invention is an alcohol dimer, preferably saturated, wherein the alcohol is C 16 ~C 32 Preferably C 16 ~C 22 It may also be obtained by reacting it with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer) which is an alcohol.

[0104] For the purposes of this invention, the term “diol dimer” means, more specifically, a saturated diol produced by hydrogenating a corresponding dioxy acid dimer as defined herein.

[0105] It should be noted that the diol dimer may also be other components, such as triol trimers, monoalcohols, and ether-type compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the dimer acid and / or its lower alcohol ester used as the starting material. While it is possible to use products with a diol dimer content of more than 70% by mass, it is preferable to use high-purity diol dimers, such as compounds with a diol dimer content of more than 90% by mass.

[0106] Therefore, diol dimers may be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of dioxide dimers, and may themselves contain at least one unsaturated fatty acid, particularly C as described above. 16 ~C 32 Fatty acids, especially C 16 ~C 22 Fatty acids, more specifically C 18 It is obtained by dimerizing fatty acids.

[0107] According to certain embodiments, the diol dimer is derived by hydrogenating the acidic functional group of dilinol diacid.

[0108] More specifically, the diol dimer is obtained by dimerizing linoleic acid and subsequently hydrogenating the acidic functional group. The diol dimer may be in a saturated form, i.e., it does not contain any carbon-carbon double bonds. According to another embodiment, the possible carbon-carbon double bonds of the diol dimer are completely or partially hydrogenated after the diacid dimer is esterified with the diol dimer. The hydrogenated form, in particular the fully hydrogenated form, is preferred.

[0109] Examples of esters suitable for use in the present invention include, in particular, the following products (INCI names): dimer dilinoleate dimer dilinoleate (particularly sold by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. under the trademark names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®).

[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises, as liquid polyester (C), at least one compound (INCI name) selected from dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer and dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, either alone or in a mixture.

[0111] Ester, ether, or carbonate hydrocarbon oil The first oil may also be selected from esters, ethers, or carbonate hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from unsaturated fatty acid dimers (or liquid polyesters) as described above, which are free of free hydroxyl groups.

[0112] The terms "hydrocarbon oil" or "hydrocarbon compound" have traditionally referred to oils (or compositions) that are essentially formed from or further composed of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen atoms or nitrogen atoms, and that do not contain silicon atoms or fluorine atoms. Thus, hydrocarbon oils are distinct from silicone oils and fluoro oils. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils according to the present invention contain only carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and oxygen atoms, and optionally nitrogen atoms.

[0113] According to the first embodiment, the first oil is selected from ester oils containing 1 to 4 ester functional groups, comprising a total of 17 to 80 carbon atoms, more specifically 17 to 70 carbon atoms, and being linear or branched, and saturated, unsaturated or aromatic.

[0114] More specifically, the ester is a monoester and polyester other than the liquid polyester described above, for example: - Saturated or unsaturated monoesters of monocarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, e.g., parcelin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C benzoate 12 ~C 15 Alkyl, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, and 2-octyldodecyl myristate; - Diesters, such as diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, or diesters of glycols and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; - Triesters of tricarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; - Glycerol, diglycerol, pentaerythritol, and all esters of monocarboxylic acids, e.g., heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, capric acid triglycerides (alone or in mixtures), e.g., capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, C18-36 acid triglycerides; 2-decyl tetradecanoate triglycerides, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl isostearate / capric acid / caprylic acid / adipate pentaerythrityl (INCI name, e.g., Supermol L product from Croda); - and mixtures thereof Selected from.

[0115] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the non-volatile first oil is an ether of formula ROR', a carbonate of formula RO(CO)OR' (wherein the formula R and R' may be the same or different, and is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon group containing fewer than 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C 16 The group can be selected from the following (representing the group). For example, dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof can be listed.

[0116] vegetable oil Similarly, the first oil may be selected from vegetable oils other than castor oil and rescera oil, which preferably do not contain free hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Examples of vegetable oils that may be mentioned include jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, xymenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, dog rose oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, foxtail millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, liquid fraction of shea butter, and liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0118] Preferably, the vegetable oil is selected from sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, jojoba oil, and sesame seed oil, either individually or in mixtures.

[0119] According to a preferred modification of the present invention, the non-volatile first oil (C) is selected from non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oils, liquid polyesters, ester hydrocarbon oils other than the above-mentioned liquid polyesters, which are linear or branched and saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, do not contain free hydroxyl groups, contain a total of 17 to 70 carbon atoms, and contain 1 to 4 ester functional groups, and from vegetable oils other than castor oil and lechesterella oil; and from dicaprylyl ether and dicaprylyl carbonate, either alone or in mixtures.

[0120] Preferably, the non-volatile first oil (C) is selected individually or in mixture from squalane, more specifically plant-derived oils, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, jojoba oil, and sesame oil.

[0121] Volatile oils The composition may also include, as the first oil, at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil or silicone oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The hydrocarbon volatile oils are preferably selected from hydrocarbon-type hydrocarbon oils (and therefore non-polar hydrocarbon oils composed only of carbon and hydrogen). More specifically, these include volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, among others: - Branch C8~C 16 Alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecanes, isodecanes or isohexadecanes, and mixtures thereof, oils sold under the brand names Isopar or Permethyl, - Linear alkanes, such as C, either alone or in mixtures. 11 ~C 15 Alkanes, and - those mixtures It can be selected from the following.

[0123] The volatile silicone oil can be selected from linear, branched, or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxane containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, for example, those sold by Dow Corning under the reference names DC 200 (1.5 cSt) or DC 200 (3 cSt), or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. (as alone or in mixtures).

[0125] If the composition contains at least one volatile oil, the oil is more specifically selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils.

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, the first oil (C) comprises, in particular, at least one non-volatile oil selected from the following non-volatile oils: - Liquid paraffin, squalane, more specifically plant-derived, isoeicosane, C 15~19 Alkane, C 18~21 Alkane, C 21~28 Alkanes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polybutenes; non-polar hydrocarbon oils selected from hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof; - Phenylated non-volatile silicones selected from non-phenylated silicone oils selected from dimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, and mixtures thereof; - From dilinol dimer acid and at least one C3-C4 diol; an alcohol dimer, preferably saturated, wherein the alcohol is C 16 ~C 32 Preferably C 16 ~C 22 From alcohol dimers that are; and more specifically, at least propanediol, butanediol, C 18 ~C 30 Liquid polyester obtained from alcohol, zirinole alcohol, - Hydrocarbon ester oils other than the liquid polyesters described above, which are linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, do not contain free hydroxyl groups, contain a total of 17 to 70 carbon atoms, and contain 1 to 4 ester functional groups. - Vegetable oils other than castor oil and resquerella oil, - Dicaprylyl ether, - Dicaprylyl carbonate, - and mixtures thereof.

[0127] In a more specific embodiment, the first oil (C) comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from the following non-volatile oils: - Liquid paraffin, squalane, more specifically plant-derived, isoeicosane, C 15~19 Alkane, C 18~21 Alkane, C 21~28 Alkanes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polybutenes; non-polar hydrocarbon oils selected from hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof; - From dilinol dimer acid and at least one C3-C4 diol; an alcohol dimer, preferably saturated, wherein the alcohol is C 16 ~C 32 Preferably C 16 ~C 22 From alcohol dimers that are; and more specifically, at least propanediol, butanediol, C 18 ~C 30 Liquid polyester obtained from alcohol, zirinole alcohol, - Hydrocarbon ester oils other than the liquid polyesters described above, which are linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, do not contain free hydroxyl groups, contain a total of 17 to 70 carbon atoms, and contain 1 to 4 ester functional groups. - Vegetable oils other than castor oil and resquerella oil, - and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Preferably, the first oil (C) comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from squalane, more specifically plant-derived oils, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (INCI name), dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (INCI name), dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer (INCI name), capric acid / caprylic acid triglyceride, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] More specifically, the content of the first oil is 40-60% by mass, more specifically 45-55% by mass, relative to the mass of the composition.

[0130] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the content of the non-volatile first oil is 40 to 60% by mass, more specifically 45 to 55% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0131] Furthermore, the content of the first volatile oil is 15% by mass or less, more specifically 10% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition, if the composition contains them. Preferably, the composition does not contain any volatile oils.

[0132] Lipophilic thickener The compositions according to the present invention may also, either alone or in mixtures, comprise at least one lipophilic thickener selected from silica (which may or may not be hydrophobic) and dextrin esters.

[0133] silica The compositions according to the present invention may also include, as a lipophilic thickener, fumed silica, preferably hydrophobic fumed silica, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0134] The term "hydrophobic silica" refers to any silica whose surface has been treated with a silylation agent, such as halogenated silanes, siloxanes, particularly dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, such as trimethylsilyl groups.

[0135] a) Fumed Silica Fumed silica that has undergone hydrophobic surface treatment is particularly suitable for use in the present invention. In fact, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that causes a reduction in the silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, it is possible to replace the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups, thereby obtaining hydrophobic silica.

[0136] The hydrophobic group may be any of the following: - Trimethylsiloxyl groups obtained, in particular, by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silica treated in this manner is known as "silylated silica" according to CTFA (8th edition, 2000). These are marketed, for example, by Degussa under the reference name Aerosil R812® and by Cabot under the reference name Cab-O-Sil TS-530®. - Dimethylsilyloxyl groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane, in particular. Silica treated in this manner is known as "dimethylsilylated silica" according to CTFA (8th edition, 2000). These are sold, for example, by Degussa under the reference names Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974®, and by Cabot under the reference names Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720®.

[0137] b) Silica aerogel Silica aerogel is a porous material obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (drying it).

[0138] Silica aerogels are generally synthesized in a liquid medium by the sol-gel method and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid (most commonly supercritical CO2). This type of drying avoids pore shrinkage in the material. The sol-gel method and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0139] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are typically 500-1500 m 2 / g, preferably 600-1200m 2 / g, ideally 600-800m 2 Specific surface area per unit mass in the range of / g (S M The material has a volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 1 to 1500 μm, preferably 1 to 1000 μm, more preferably 1 to 100 μm, more specifically 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

[0140] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as a volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 1 to 30 μm, preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

[0141] The specific surface area per unit mass is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET) method, which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the specific surface area of ​​the entire particle in question.

[0142] The size of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using commercially available particle size analyzers such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory applies to isotropic particles, and for non-spherical particles, it is possible to determine the "effective" particle size. This theory is described in detail in the publication Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0143] According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention are 600-800 m2 Specific surface area per unit mass in the range of / g (S M It has a size expressed as a volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 5 to 20 μm, and more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

[0144] The aerogel is an aerogel made of hydrophobic silica, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silylated silica).

[0145] For the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, refer to U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725.

[0146] It is preferable to use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

[0147] Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the present invention include the aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: silylated silica), which has an average particle size of approximately 1000 microns and a diameter of 600-800 m 2 It has a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of / g.

[0148] Other examples include aerogels sold by Cabot under the reference names Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

[0149] The particles have an average size in the range of 5-15 μm and are 600-800 m 2 It is preferable to use an aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica) that has a specific surface area per mass unit in the range of / g.

[0150] Dextrin ester According to another embodiment, the lipophilic thickener is a dextrin ester, more specifically, C8-C 30 It is preferably selected from fatty acid esters of dextrin, which are esters.

[0151] More specifically, the fatty acid ester of dextrin is given by formula (I): [Chemical formula 2] [ka] (In the formula, - Groups R1, R2, and R3 may be the same or different, selected from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-), wherein group R is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 6 to 30, particularly 8 to 22, or even more specifically 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of groups R1, R2, or R3 is not hydrogen. - n is an integer between 3 and 150, particularly between 10 and 100, preferably between 15 and 40. It corresponds to this.

[0152] Preferably, the three groups R1, R2 and R3 are other than hydrogen, thereby forming the dextrin ester of the following formula (II): [Chemical formula 3] [ka] (In the formula, groups R'1, R'2, and R'3 may be the same or different, and represent a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 6 to 30, particularly 8 to 22, and more specifically 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and -n is an integer from 3 to 150, particularly 10 to 100, preferably 15 to 40.) You can obtain this.

[0153] In particular, the groups -OCOR'1, -OCOR'2 and / or -OCOR'3 may be selected from the groups of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristateic acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, isohexanoic acid, 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, dodecenoic acid, tetradecenoic acid, myristoleic acid, hexadecenoic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, asclepic acid, gondoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, sorbic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, punicic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid and stearolic acid, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0154] Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, in particular, from Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd. under the name Rheopearl.

[0155] If the composition contains either of the above, the content of the lipophilic thickener is more specifically 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0156] Preferably, if the composition contains silica, the silica is selected from preferably hydrophobic fumed silica or preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0157] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the compositions according to the present invention are, in particular, alkylammonium salts, for example, C 10 ~C 22 It may contain at least one lipophilic thickener selected from natural or synthetic clays that have been made lipophilic by treatment with a chloride, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0158] These can be selected from bentonite, more specifically hectorite and montmorillonite, byderite, saponite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite, and zeolite. Selection from hectorite is preferred.

[0159] More specifically, clay is lipophilic, and more specifically, C 10 ~C 22 The hectorite is selected from ammonium halides, particularly hectorite modified with chlorides, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (e.g., the product sold by Elementis under the name Bentone 38V®, or Bento Gel in isododecane sold by Elementis under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (87% isododecane / 10% disteardimonium hectorite / 3% propylene carbonate)).

[0160] If the composition according to the present invention contains such clay, the amount of clay it contains is preferably 2% by mass or less, and preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any modified viscosity or unmodified viscosity.

[0162] water The composition according to the present invention may optionally contain water.

[0163] If the composition contains any of the above, the content is 10% by mass or less, more specifically 8% by mass or less. Advantageously, if water is present, the water content is 0.05% to 8% by mass, more specifically 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0164] Hydroxylated solvent More specifically, the compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one hydroxylated solvent selected from monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] The hydroxylation solvent may also be selected from C2-C8 polyols that are liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and contain 2-4 free hydroxyl groups. Examples that may be mentioned include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] If the composition contains either of the above, the content of the hydroxylation solvent is 10% by mass or less, more specifically 8% by mass or less. Advantageously, if the composition contains either of the above, the content of the hydroxylation solvent is 0.05% to 8% by mass, more specifically 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0167] If the composition contains water, it should be noted that the amounts of water and hydroxylated solvent should be 10% by mass or less, more specifically 8% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0168] solid fat compounds The compositions according to the present invention may optionally include, more specifically, at least one solid fatty compound selected from waxes, paste-like fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof, in addition to compound (B) described above.

[0169] wax As previously shown, the compositions according to the present invention may comprise at least one wax.

[0170] The term "wax" specifically refers to water-insoluble solid fatty compounds having a melting point of 40–120°C, more favorably 45–100°C, and even more preferably 50–100°C.

[0171] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3;1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name DSC Q2000.

[0172] The measurement procedure is as follows:

[0173] A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible containing a "sealed aluminum capsule."

[0174] The sample is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min. During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the peak of the highest endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, which represents the variation in the difference in absorbed energy as a function of temperature.

[0175] More specifically, the wax is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, ester hydrocarbon waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e., waxes containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), examples include polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polymethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, especially polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Among ester hydrocarbon waxes, fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, glycerol, and C 16 ~C 30 esters of carboxylic acids, all of which contain no free hydroxyl groups; waxes derived from animals or plants excluding carnauba wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils excluding hydrogenated castor oil and hydrogenated lesquerella oil; and also mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0178] More specifically, waxes of fatty acid esters of the formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 and R2 are in the range of 10 to 50 carbon atoms and represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain which may contain heteroatoms, specifically oxygen) can be mentioned. Specifically, as waxes, cetyl palmitate and stearic acid C 20 ~C 40 alkyl can be used. Such waxes are sold, inter alia, by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax® K82H. C 14 ~C 18 Mixtures of esters of carboxylic acids and alcohols, for example, Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL or Crodamol MS PA from Croda, or Miraceti from Laserson can also be used.

[0179] Diesters of dicarboxylic acids of the general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5) (wherein R3 and R5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and represent a C4~C 30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4~C 30 aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations) are also suitable for use as ester waxes. Preferably, the C4~C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0180] Saturated C 16 ~C 30It is also possible to use a total ester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol, such as tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate) or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), either alone or as a mixture.

[0181] Waxes derived from animals or plants excluding carnauba wax, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, oricury wax, African palm wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax, wood wax, montan wax, orange and lemon wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or sunflower wax, specifically refined sunflower wax.

[0182] It is also possible to use at least one wax selected from those obtained by hydrogenating animal or vegetable oils, excluding optionally esterified hydrogenated castor oil and hydrogenated lesquerella oil.

[0183] More specifically, linear or branched C8 - C 32 Vegetable oils having fatty chains, such as waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil or hydrogenated jojoba oil, etc., can be mentioned.

[0184] As waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of plant - derived C6 - C22 fatty alcohols and esters obtained from vegetable oils, waxes having the following INCI names can also be mentioned: hydrogenated olive oil lauryl ester, hydrogenated olive oil myristyl ester, hydrogenated olive oil cetyl ester, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl ester. Such waxes are specifically sold under the names Phytowax® Olive 12 L44, Phytowax® Olive 14 L 48, Phytowax® Olive 16 L 55, Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57 by Sophim. Such waxes are described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2 792 190.

[0185] Preferably, if the composition contains at least one wax, the wax is preferably selected from beeswax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, fatty acid ester wax, more specifically cetyl palmitate, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] If the composition contains either of these, the wax content is 8% to 20% by mass, more specifically 10% to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0187] paste-like compound The compositions according to the present invention may also include at least one paste-like compound other than the first solid compound (B), more specifically a non-polar or polar hydrocarbon compound.

[0188] Among the paste-like compounds that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, petrolatum (INCI name: petrolatum) can be cited as a nonpolar hydrocarbon compound (in other words, a compound whose structure contains only carbon and hydrogen atoms).

[0189] Among polar paste-like hydrocarbon compounds, ester-type compounds are used more specifically.

[0190] Examples that may be mentioned include lanolin and its derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin or isopropyl lanolinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Plant-derived butters, such as shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, cupuaçu butter, murumuru butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof, are also suitable for use.

[0192] Similarly, examples include esters derived from pentaerythritol, such as products with the INCI name tetrahydroxystearic acid / tetraisostearate dipentaerythrityl; triglycerides of saturated or hydrogenated fatty acids, such as products with the INCI names caprylic acid / capric acid / myristic acid / stearic acid triglyceride, hydrogenated cocoyl glyceride, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] Fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil, and mixtures thereof, can also be used as paste compounds, with the exception of optionally esterified hydrogenated castor oil and hydrogenated rescerrella oil.

[0194] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the paste-like compound is selected from vegetable butter; fully or partially hydrogenated, preferably partially hydrogenated, vegetable oils, excluding optionally esterified hydrogenated castor oil and hydrogenated rescerrella oil; dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid triglycerides; and mixtures thereof.

[0195] If the composition contains either of the above, the content of the paste-like fatty compound other than the first solid compound is 0.5% to 15% by mass, more specifically 1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0196] additional compounds The compositions according to the present invention may optionally include oils, waxes, paste-like compounds other than the solid compound (B), a first oil (C), and at least one additional compound selected from the solid fatty compounds, waxes, or paste-like fatty compounds described in detail above.

[0197] More specifically, the additional compounds are C8-C 60Fatty alcohols; hydroxylated esters; optionally esterified castor oil, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated; hydrogenated or unhydrogenated rescerrella oil; carnauba wax; glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: trihydroxystearin); monooxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene hydrocarbons or silicone compounds with C2-C3 alkyl groups, monoglycerol or polyglycerolate hydrocarbons or silicone compounds, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, and mixtures thereof, selected from these.

[0198] Saturated or unsaturated C8~C 30 Alcohols, more specifically monoalcohols that are liquid or solid at ambient temperature, include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 1-triacontanyl alcohol, and mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols, for example, C 30 ~C 50 Alcohol, C 20 ~C 40 Examples include mixtures of alcohols, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0199] Among the hydroxylated esters, preferably hydroxylated monoesters and diesters having a total number of carbon atoms in the range of 20 to 70, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, or diisostearyl malate. Examples that may be mentioned include partial esters of glycerol or polyglycerol containing 2 to 8 glycerol units, such as glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof. Such esters may be optionally oxyethylene-modified and / or oxypropylene-modified.

[0200] Plant-derived C6-C 22 Waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from fatty alcohols and vegetable oils, for example, products with the following INCI names: in detail, hydrogenated cetyl castor esters, hydrogenated stearyl castor esters, and hydrogenated castor esters, sold by Sophim under the names Phytowax® Ricin 16 L 64, Phytowax® Ricin 18 L 69, and Phytowax® Ricin 22 L 73. Such waxes are also described in French Patent No. 2792190.

[0201] Among the paste-like compounds, one example that can be specifically mentioned is bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name), which is sold by Sasol under the trademark name Softisan 649.

[0202] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any additional compounds.

[0203] However, if the composition contains any of these, their content is preferably less than 7% by mass, more specifically less than 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. More precisely, this content is less than 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0204] Advantageously, the content of the additional compound in the liquid is less than the content of the first oil (C) described above.

[0205] Advantageously, the content of the additional solid compound is kept below the content of solid compound (B) described above (if the composition contains these two types of compounds).

[0206] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the overall content of water and / or hydroxylated solvent and / or additional compounds is 10% by mass or less, more specifically 8% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, if one or more are present.

[0207] additional dye The compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain, in addition to the natural dyes or naturally derived dyes (A) described herein, at least one additional dye, preferably a solid.

[0208] More specifically, optional dyes may be selected from pearlescent agents or pigments.

[0209] Pearlescent luster The term "pearlescent agent" should be understood to mean any form of colored particle that has an iridescent effect, whether or not it has iridescence, and is produced in the shell of certain mollusks, or synthesized by alternative means, and which exhibits a coloring effect due to optical interference.

[0210] The pearlescent agent can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. They may also be mica particles in which at least two consecutive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed on their surface.

[0211] Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned include titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or natural mica coated with bismuth oxychloride.

[0212] The pearlescent agent may, more specifically, have the colors or shades of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper.

[0213] Among the pearlescent agents available on the market, examples include Timica, Flamenco, Cloisonne, Chromalite, and Duochrome pearlescent agents (mica-based) sold by Engelhard; Timiron, Colorona, and Microna pearlescent agents sold by Merck; Prestige mica-based pearlescent agent sold by Eckart; and Sunshine synthetic mica-based pearlescent agent sold by Sun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0214] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the pearlescent agent is selected from pearlescent agents having an average particle size of at least 70 μm, preferably at least 100 μm (corresponding to D50 (average diameter measured by laser particle size analysis or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art)).

[0215] As a guideline, if a composition contains either of these, such pearlescent agents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by mass, more specifically from 0.01% to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0216] pigment The composition according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one pigment.

[0217] The term "pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous or oily media and are intended to color and / or opaque the resulting composition and / or deposits.

[0218] These pigments may be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

[0219] Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, examples include zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium oxide and zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

[0220] These pigments may also be organic pigments.

[0221] Organic pigments can be selected from, in particular, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, or quinophthalone compounds.

[0222] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference names CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference names CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference names CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference names CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, and CI Red pigments classified by the reference names 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 may be selected, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2,679,771.

[0223] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments may, in more detail, consist of particles comprising an inorganic core coated at least partially with an organic pigment, and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0224] Pigments may also be lakes. The term "lake" refers to an insoluble dye adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the resulting aggregate remaining insoluble during use.

[0225] Examples of inorganic substrates for adsorbing dyes include alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or aluminum calcium borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0226] Advantageously, the pigment may be subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0227] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected, for example, from silicones such as methicone, dimethicone and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphate, perfluoroalkylsilane, perfluoroalkylsilazane, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, polyorganosiloxane containing a perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether group, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyltriisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0228] The N-acylated amino acid may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0229] The term "alkyl" as referred to in the compounds cited so far means, inter alia, an alkyl group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0230] The hydrophobic-treated pigment is described, inter alia, in European Patent Application Publication No. A-1 086 683.

[0231] Among organic dyes, carminic acid can be mentioned.

[0232] The following products and their rakes are also known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0233] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the pigment is subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0234] As a guideline, if the composition contains any of the above, the pigment content may be in the range of 0.001% to 10% by mass, particularly 0.01% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0235] Advantageously, the content of the additional dye is such that the composition according to the present invention exhibits a color change under the extreme conditions detailed below.

[0236] procedure: Prepare the following two samples.

[0237] Sample 1 2.5g of the composition according to the present invention Octyldodecanol 0.5g 1 g of pH 10 buffer solution

[0238] The composition is ground with a spatula and mixed with the remaining ingredients described above (for example, by a speed mixer) at 3000 rpm for 1 minute.

[0239] Sample 2 2.5g of the composition according to the present invention Octyldodecanol 0.5g 1g of pH3 water + citric acid solution

[0240] The composition is ground with a spatula and mixed with the remaining ingredients described above (for example, by a speed mixer) at 3000 rpm for 1 minute.

[0241] measurement * After preparing each sample, apply an appropriate amount of the mixture to the white side of a contrast card (unvarnished Byk card, reference no. 2831) as a uniform thickness deposit using a Multiple Clearance Square Applicator 5363 (2 mil thickness, i.e., 51 μm) sold by Byk-Gardner. *The color of the deposits on one sample 1 and the other sample 2 was measured after 24 hours using a Konica Minolta CM600d colorimeter in a CIELab 76 system (light source D65, SCI, 10° observer) at three different positions away from the edges of the deposits, and the L*, a*, and b* coordinates of the color in CIELab 76 space were obtained. *Next, calculate the average of the L*, a*, and b* coordinates for each sample. *The change in color is evaluated from the average ΔE2000 value according to the ISO 11664-6:2014 standard (specification for the method of calculating color difference using formula CIEDE2000).

[0242] Therefore, the additional dye content, more specifically, under these extreme test conditions (which are not representative of the normal use of compositions for makeup on skin or lips), has an average ΔE 2000 This is the content such that the change in the absolute value exceeds 2.

[0243] filler The compositions according to the present invention may optionally contain one or more fillers conventionally used in makeup and / or care compositions. It should be noted that the fillers are neither pigments nor pearlescent agents. More specifically, the fillers cannot color the composition or the resulting deposits.

[0244] These fillers are colorless or white solid particles of any form, either insoluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0245] These fillers, whether mineral, organic, natural, or synthetic, impart flexibility to the compositions containing them, resulting in a matte and uniform makeup finish. Additionally, these fillers advantageously allow for resistance to various aggressive elements such as sebum or sweat.

[0246] Examples of these fillers include mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose, for example, Cellulobeads series products sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd., Sensocel series products sold by Rossow, specifically Sensocel 8 products, rice flour (specifically sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd.), boron nitride, polymer hollow microspheres, for example, ExpanseL® (Nobel Examples include polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile or acrylic acid copolymer polymers (such as those used in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2003128788 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 2000191789), silicone resin microbeads (e.g., Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane particles of elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powder, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, silica microspheres (e.g., those sold by AGC SI-TEC Inc. under the names Solesphere H51 or Sunsphere H51), and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Particles having a partial shape of a hollow sphere, as described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2003128788 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 2000191789, may also be used.

[0247] Specifically, when the composition contains such fillers, they may be present in a content range of 0.3% to 10% by mass, specifically 1% to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0248] Optional common additives In connection with the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one adjuvant selected from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, specifically in makeup and / or care compositions for the skin and lips.

[0249] Examples that may be mentioned include dyes soluble in the composition other than the natural dye (A) described so far, preservatives, antioxidants, surfactants, humectants, fragrances, bactericides, and the like.

[0250] These adjuvants and their concentrations must not change the properties required for the composition of the present invention, specifically, they must not impair the coloring stability properties. According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the content of the optional additive is in the range of 2% to 4% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0251] Method for preparing the composition The composition according to the present invention can be produced by known methods commonly used in the art.

[0252] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be produced by the following method.

[0253] First, for example, using a three-roll mill, the pigment is pulverized in a part of the fatty compound, more generally in a part of the oil of the composition.

[0254] Furthermore, the rest of the fatty compound, such as the first solid compound (B), and the remaining oil are mixed and heated to a temperature higher than the melting temperature of the solid compound, specifically to a temperature of about 90 to 100 °C.

[0255] When the composition contains an inorganic thickener, this compound is preferably added during this step of melting the solid fatty compound.

[0256] Once the mixture is homogenized, the ground pigment mixture can be introduced while stirring, in detail with other possible additional components such as fillers.

[0257] It is preferable to add the natural dye to the mixture obtained after homogenization, while stirring it with, for example, a Rayneri-type turbine mixer.

[0258] If the composition contains pearlescent dyes, it is preferable to add them at the end of the method for preparing the composition.

[0259] Finally, the composition is poured into a mold or cup that can form it into a stick or rod shape. The composition can then be cooled or allowed to cool to ambient temperature to obtain a solid composition.

[0260] Throughout the entire specification, including the claims, the phrase "comprising a" should be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one" unless otherwise specified.

[0261] The expressions "...~..." and "...~... range" should be understood to mean that the boundary value is included unless otherwise specified.

[0262] In addition, the total amount of the components in the composition represents 100% by mass of the composition.

[0263] The present invention will be described in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0264] Unless otherwise specified, quantities are expressed as mass percentages.

[0265] The following embodiments are presented as a non-limiting description of the present invention. [Examples]

[0266] Example 1 In the table below, the amount of each compound is shown as a mass percentage of the composition / mass (percentages are expressed as the mass of the starting materials unless otherwise specified).

[0267] [Table 1]

[0268] Preparation of composition 1. On the other hand, solid pigments are ground in a portion of the formula oil within a three-roll mill. 2. On the other hand, the remaining oil, paste-like compound, wax, and surfactant are heated to a temperature of approximately 90-95°C while stirring. 3. Next, natural dyes and fillers are added, and the entire mixture is mixed using a Rayneri-type stirring turbine (deflocculator). Finally, fragrance and tocopherol are added. 4. Next, pour the composition obtained at 90-95°C into a suitable lipstick mold. 5. Once the composition has solidified, remove the rod from the mold and package it.

[0269] Evaluation of the composition The composition is dense, uniform, and adheres comfortably to the lips, making it easy to apply.

[0270] After application, the color remains stable on the lips.

[0271] Instrument screening results (measured according to the procedure in the specification): ΔE 2000(1:1:1) =1.1

[0272] Comparative Example 2 The following compositions contain hydroxylated polar oils but do not contain dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate paste-like compounds.

[0273] [Table 2]

[0274] Preparation of composition 1. Meanwhile, titanium dioxide is ground in a portion of the formula oil within a three-roll mill. 2. On the other hand, the remaining oil, paste-like compound, and wax are heated to a temperature of approximately 90-95°C while stirring. 3. Next, natural dyes and fillers are added, and the entire mixture is mixed using a Rayneri-type stirring turbine (deflocculator). 4. Next, pour the composition obtained at 90-95°C into a suitable lipstick mold. 5. Once the composition has solidified, remove the rod from the mold and package it.

[0275] Evaluation of the composition The composition is dense and uniform, and easily applied to the lips.

[0276] However, the color changes on the lips after application.

[0277] Instrument screening results (measured according to the procedure in the specification): ΔE 2000(1:1:1) =3.2

[0278] Comparative Example 3 The following compositions contain hydroxylated oils.

[0279] [Table 3]

[0280] Preparation of composition 1. On the other hand, solid pigments are ground in a portion of the formula oil within a three-roll mill. 2. On the other hand, the remaining oil, paste-like compound, wax, and surfactant are heated to a temperature of approximately 90-95°C while stirring. 3. Next, natural dyes and fillers are added, and the entire mixture is mixed using a Rayneri-type stirring turbine (deflocculator). Finally, fragrance and tocopherol are added. 4. Next, pour the composition obtained at 90-95°C into a suitable lipstick mold. 5. Once the composition has solidified, remove the rod from the mold and package it.

[0281] Evaluation of the composition The composition is dense, uniform, and adheres comfortably to the lips, making it easy to apply.

[0282] After application, the color visibly and significantly changes on the lips.

[0283] Comparative Example 4 The following compositions contain hydroxylated oils.

[0284] [Table 4]

[0285] Preparation of composition 1. On the other hand, solid pigments are ground in a portion of the formula oil within a three-roll mill. 2. On the other hand, the remaining oil, paste-like compound, wax, and surfactant are heated to a temperature of approximately 90-95°C while stirring. 3. Next, natural dyes and fillers are added, and the entire mixture is mixed using a Rayneri-type stirring turbine (deflocculator). Finally, fragrance and tocopherol are added. 4. Next, pour the composition obtained at 90-95°C into a suitable lipstick mold. 5. Once the composition has solidified, remove the rod from the mold and package it.

[0286] Evaluation of the composition The composition is dense, uniform, and adheres comfortably to the lips, making it easy to apply.

[0287] After application, the color changes significantly on the lips.

Claims

1. A solid composition for applying makeup and / or care for keratinous substances such as skin and / or lips, (A) at least one natural dye or dye derived from nature selected from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof; (B) at least one first compound that is solid at 25°C, selected from polyesters obtained from dimers of at least monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms; (C) Nonpolar hydrocarbon oils; silicone oils; liquid polyesters obtained from dimers of monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, wherein the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms; esters, ethers, or carbonate hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned liquid polyesters, which do not contain free hydroxyl groups; vegetable oils other than castor oil and resquerella oil; and mixtures thereof, comprising at least one volatile or nonvolatile first oil. A solid composition containing the following:

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the first solid or paste-like compound is selected from esters with the following INCI names: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, diglycerin / dilinoleic acid / hydroxystearate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the content of the first solid compound (B) is in the range of 10 to 35% by mass with respect to the mass of the composition, and more specifically in the range of 15 to 30% by mass with respect to the mass of the composition.

4. The first oil (C) described above is, in detail, the following non-volatile oil: - Liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, C １５～１９ Alkane, C １８～２１ Alkane, C ２１～２８ Alkanes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polybutenes; non-polar hydrocarbon oils selected from hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof; - Phenylated non-volatile silicones selected from non-phenylated silicone oils selected from dimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, and mixtures thereof; - from dilinoleic dimer acid and from at least one C ３ - C ４ - diol; an alcohol dimer, preferably saturated, wherein said alcohol is C １６ - C ３２ , preferably C １６ - C ２２ ; and more particularly from at least propanediol, butanediol, C １８ - C ３０ - alcohol, dilinoleyl alcohol, a liquid polyester obtained therefrom, - A hydrocarbon ester oil other than the liquid polyester described above, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, does not contain free hydroxyl groups, contains a total of 17 to 80 carbon atoms, and contains 1 to 4 ester functional groups. - Vegetable oils other than castor oil and resquerella oil, - Dicaprylyl ether, - Dicaprylyl carbonate, - and mixtures thereof Selected from, Preferably, - Liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, C １５～１９ Alkane, C １８～２１ Alkane, C ２１～２８ Alkanes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polybutenes; non-polar hydrocarbon oils selected from hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof; - From dilinol dimer acid, and at least one C ３ ~C ４ From a diol; an alcohol dimer, preferably saturated, wherein the alcohol is C １６ ~C ３２ Preferably C １６ ~C ２２ From alcohol dimers that are; and more specifically, at least propanediol, butanediol, C １８ ~C ３０ Liquid polyester obtained from alcohol, zirinole alcohol, - A hydrocarbon ester oil other than the liquid polyester described above, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, does not contain free hydroxyl groups, contains a total of 17 to 70 carbon atoms, and contains 1 to 4 ester functional groups. - Vegetable oils other than castor oil and resquerella oil, - and mixtures thereof The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by comprising at least one non-volatile oil selected from the following.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the first oil (C) comprises squalane and at least one non-volatile oil selected from the following INCI names: dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, capric acid / caprylic acid triglyceride, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the first oil (C) is more specifically selected from nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils such as linear or branched alkanes; preferably linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms; and also from mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the content of the first oil (C) is 40% to 60% by mass, more specifically 45% to 55% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the content of the volatile first oil is 15% by mass or less, more specifically 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by optionally comprising, alone or in a mixture, at least one lipophilic thickener selected from silica, preferably hydrophobic silica; and dextrin esters.

10. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the content of the lipophilic thickener is 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

11. More specifically, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it may optionally contain at least one lipophilic thickener selected from natural or synthetic clays, which has been given lipophilicity by treatment with an alkylammonium salt, in an amount of 2% by mass or less, preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it optionally contains water in an amount of 10% by mass or less, more specifically 8% by mass or less, and preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

13. A monoalcohol containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and contains 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups. ２ ~C ８ The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that at least one hydroxylation solvent selected from polyols is optionally included in an amount of 10% by mass or less, more specifically 8% by mass or less, preferably 0.05% to 8% by mass, and more specifically 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and if the composition includes any of the above, the amounts of water and the hydroxylation solvent are 10% by mass or less based on the total mass of the composition.

14. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, - Non-polar hydrocarbon waxes derived from hydrocarbon ester waxes, specifically fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, glycerol and C １６ ~C ３０ These waxes are total esters of carboxylic acids and do not contain free hydroxyl groups; waxes of animal or plant origin other than carnauba wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils other than hydrogenated castor oil, which are optionally esterified; hydrogenated rescera oil, and mixtures thereof, selected in more detail; waxes in an amount of 8% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition; - Selected from petrolatum; lanolin and derivatives; plant-derived butter; tetrahydroxystearic acid / dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; saturated or hydrogenated fatty acid triglycerides; preferably partially hydrogenated, fully hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, excluding hydrogenated castor oil; or mixtures thereof; more specifically, paste-like compounds other than the first solid compound (B) in an amount of 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably 1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. A composition characterized by optionally comprising at least one solid fatty compound (D) selected from the following.

15. The composition optionally comprises the first solid compound (B) and the first oil (C), and at least one additional liquid or solid compound selected from oils, waxes, and paste-like compounds other than the solid fatty compounds described in claim 14; more specifically, C ８ ~C ６０ Fatty alcohols; hydroxylated esters; optionally esterified hydrogenated or unhydrogenated castor oil; hydrogenated or unhydrogenated rescerrella oil; glyceryl trihydroxystearate; carnauba wax; monooxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene hydrocarbons or silicone compounds, wherein the alkyl group is C ２ ~C ３ A compound selected from: a compound; a monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon or silicone compound; bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; and mixtures thereof; more specifically, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, in an amount of less than 7% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, and advantageously less than 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

16. The composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the content of the additional liquid compound is less than the content of the first oil (C).

17. The composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the content of the additional solid compound is maintained at a level less than the content of the solid compound (B) (when the composition contains these two types of compounds).

18. The composition according to any one of claims 12, 13, and 15-17, characterized in that the overall content of water and / or a hydroxylated solvent and / or additional compounds and / or glyceryl trihydroxystearate is 10% by mass or less, more specifically 8% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, if one or more are present.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the natural dye or naturally derived dye (A) is derived from plants such as chokeberry, blueberry, cranberry, purple or black carrot, blackcurrant, cherry, red cabbage, poppy, strawberry, geranium, pomegranate, hibiscus, purple corn, bilberry, purple sweet potato, red radish, black grape, sorghum, and elderberry, preferably from radish (INCI name: Raphanus sativus root extract) or purple sweet potato (INCI name: Ipomoea batatas root extract).

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the content of the natural dye or naturally derived dye (A), which is represented as a dye-activating material, is 0.5% to 20% by mass, or 2% to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein it optionally contains at least one additional dye other than the natural dye (A); the amount of the additional dye is such that the composition exhibits a change in color under the extreme conditions detailed below: procedure: Prepare the following two samples: Sample 1 2.5 g of the composition according to the present invention Octyldodecanol 0.5g 1 g of buffer solution with pH 10 Grind the composition with a spatula and mix it with the remaining ingredients (for example, by speed mixer) at 3000 rpm for 1 minute. Sample 2 2.5 g of the composition according to the present invention Octyldodecanol 0.5g 1g of citric acid solution in water with a pH of 3 Grind the composition with a spatula and mix it with the remaining ingredients (for example, by speed mixer) at 3000 rpm for 1 minute. measurement * After preparing each sample, one hour later, apply an appropriate amount of the mixture to the white side of a contrast card (unvarnished Byk card, reference no. 2831) as a uniform thickness deposit using a Multiple Clearance Square Applicator 5363 (2 mil thickness, i.e., 51 μm) sold by Byk-Gardner; * The color of the deposits on one sample 1 and the other sample 2 was measured after 24 hours using a Konica Minolta CM600d colorimeter in a CIELab 76 system (light source D65, SCI, 10° observer) at three different positions away from the edges of the deposits, and the L*, a*, and b* coordinates of the color in CIELab 76 space were obtained; * Next, calculate the average of the L*, a*, and b* coordinates for each sample; * The change in color, evaluated from the calculated average ΔE2000 according to the ISO 11664-6:2014 standard (specification for the method of calculating color difference using formula CIEDE2000), exceeds 2 in absolute value.

22. A method for applying makeup and / or care for keratinous substances such as skin and / or lips, comprising applying the composition described in any one of claims 1 to 21.

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