Composition having chitosan and modified polysaccharides

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, and / or eyelashes and / or hair, comprising in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) natural chitosan having a molecular weight of strictly greater than 3000 daltons, in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass and strictly less than 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition; b) at least one modified polysaccharide; and c) at least one pigment coloring material in an amount of 5% to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

Claims

1. Cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, and / or eyelashes and / or hair, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) Natural chitosan having a molecular weight of strictly greater than 3000 daltons, in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass and strictly less than 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. b) at least one modified polysaccharide, and At least one pigment coloring material in an amount of 5% to 25% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. A composition containing the following:

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and preferably the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the natural chitosan has a degree of acetylation of 80% or less, preferably 70% or less, preferably 60% or less, preferably 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, and preferably 15% or less.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the natural chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from fungal origin, preferably a polysaccharide derived from the mycelium of Ascomycetes, particularly Aspergillus oryzae, and / or Basidiomycetes, particularly shiitake and / or button mushrooms, preferably the fungus being Aspergillus oryzae.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein natural chitosan is present in an amount of 0.01% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 7% by mass, preferably 0.25% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.3% to 3% by mass, or more preferably 0.5% to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

6. The modified polysaccharide is selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric polysaccharides, more preferably nonionic polysaccharides, and is optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) and / or p)(di)alkylamino as defined below, and / or optionally interposed with one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below, and contains 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic structure. Modified by the presence of aromatic or non-aromatic aliphatic hydrocarbon chains: a) halogens, e.g., chlorine or bromine; f) (thio)carboxamide, -C(O)-N(Ra)2, or -C(S)-N(Ra)2; g) cyano; h) iso(thio)cyanate; i) (hetero)aryl, e.g., phenyl or furyl; and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl, e.g., anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane; l) RX (wherein R is α)cycloalkyl, e.g., cyclohexyl; β)heterocycloalkyl, e.g., preferably monosaccharide, e.g. b) represents a group selected from glucose, γ)(hetero)aryl, e.g., phenyl, δ) a cosmetic active substance, and X represents a')O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b')S(O)r or (thio)carbonyl, or c') a combination of a') and b'), e.g., (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide; Ra represents a hydrogen atom, or (C1-C4)alkyl or aryl(C1-C4)alkyl, e.g., benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc is the same or different and represents a (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkoxy group, especially a single substituent; and / or a') a heteroatom, e.g., O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, (thio)carbonyl, or c') a combination of a') and b'), e.g., (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide, where r is 1 or 2, Ra is as previously defined, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, and Rb and Rc are as previously defined). Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from modified polysaccharides selected from gum arabic, ghati gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, agar, alginate, carrageenan and furcereran, guar gum, carob gum, fenugreek seed gum, tamarind gum, konjac gum, xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, cellulose, starch, dextrin, pullulan, inulin, and pectin, preferably from cellulose, starch, dextrin, pullulan, and inulin, more preferably from cellulose, according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the modified polysaccharide is an alkyl polysaccharide, wherein the alkyl group contains between 2 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably the modified polysaccharide is cellulose or a guar derivative; preferably the modified polysaccharide is alkylcellulose, wherein the linear or branched alkyl residues contain between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, particularly between 2 and 6, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms; preferably the modified polysaccharide is selected from ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, and ethylguar, and preferably ethylcellulose.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the modified polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharide esters.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and 8, wherein the modified polysaccharide is selected from dextrin palmitate and pullulan myristate.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the modified polysaccharide may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.05% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 12% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 10% by mass, and preferably 1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the mass ratio of the total amount of denatured polysaccharides to the total amount of chitosan is between 0.05 and 200, more preferably 0.1 to 100, more preferably 0.2 to 50, or even better 0.5 to 40, preferably 0.5 to 20, preferably 0.8 to 10, even more preferably 1 to 8, or even further 1.1 to 5.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the pigment coloring material is a mineral pigment selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, zinc or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, pearlescent agents and monochromatic pigments.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the pigment coloring material is an organic pigment selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the pigment coloring material is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, zinc or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, acid oxide, and mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the pigment coloring material is present in an amount of 6% to 20% by mass, preferably 8% to 18% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, of silicone based on the total mass of the composition.

17. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, which is substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably containing less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, and preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, preferably substantially free of silicones, and advantageously completely silicone-free.

18. A physiologically acceptable aqueous medium is at least 5% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 25% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass of water, and preferably 5% to 95% by mass, more preferably 10% to 85% by mass, even more preferably 20% to 80% by mass, even more preferably 25% to 75% by mass, and even more preferably 28% by mass or more by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, comprising 70% by mass, more preferably 30% to 65% by mass, more preferably 35% to 60% by mass of water, and optionally at least one organic solvent selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, which is miscible in water at 25°C, preferably, if present, the mass ratio of polyol to chitosan is between 0.1 and 6, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

19. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, preferably selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aloylitic acid; ribonic acid; tartonic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, having a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, preferably 6.3 or less, preferably between 3 and 6.3, and preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, further comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant, preferably in an amount between 0.01% by mass and 15% by mass, preferably between 0.05% by mass and 10% by mass, preferably between 0.1% by mass and 5% by mass, and preferably between 0.1% by mass and 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, wherein at least one non-volatile oil is preferably contained in an amount of 50% by mass or less, preferably 35% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and preferably 7% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, and / or the mass ratio of the non-volatile oil to the modified polysaccharide is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, and preferably between 0.5 and 2.

23. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, further comprising a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

24. A method for makeup and / or care of skin and / or keratinous appendages, wherein a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23 is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

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