Solid powder cosmetics
A solid powder cosmetic with specific iron oxide, yellow organic pigment, and optimized oil phase composition addresses the grayish appearance issue in dark foundations, ensuring effective coverage and application ease.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2025009020
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-16
- Estimated Expiration
- 2045-01-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing solid powder cosmetics, particularly dark-colored foundations, exhibit a prominent grayish color tone and dullness upon application due to high pigment content, which existing technologies fail to address effectively.
A solid powder cosmetic formulation comprising 10 to 50% iron oxide, 2 to 40% yellow organic pigment, 4 to 15% oil phase with viscosity less than 2500 mPa·s, and 0.1 to 3% pigment-grade titanium oxide, optimized to reduce the grayish appearance and maintain coverage and usability.
The formulation achieves a dark-colored cosmetic with reduced grayish appearance and minimal color difference between applied and external color, while maintaining coverage and ease of application.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic, and more particularly to a solid powder cosmetic that reduces the grayish appearance when applied to the skin of a user. [Background technology]
[0002] Solid powder cosmetics have been widely used as one of the formulations of cosmetics. A typical example of a solid powder cosmetic is a foundation. Foundations and the like generally contain titanium oxide to provide coverage, and also iron oxide pigments to match the skin color of the user.
[0003] Iron oxide pigments contained in solid powder cosmetics are known to impart a gray appearance to the skin when applied to the skin. A multi-functional powder is known that aims to prevent the cosmetic film from becoming dull, and is characterized by having at least a light-transmitting inorganic powder with a low refractive index and a coating of an inorganic material with a higher refractive index than the inorganic powder and a geometric thickness on the outside of the inorganic powder, and is configured to have high light transmittance and diffuse transmittance (see, for example, Patent Document 1). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-319540 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0005] In cosmetics containing iron oxide, particularly in dark-colored foundations and the like, since the pigment content is high, a greyish color becomes prominent when applied to the skin. The greyish color refers to the color tone during application where the chroma is lower than the external color of the cosmetic and a dullness with a grey tint is felt. Therefore, it has been difficult to develop dark-colored foundations. Patent Document 1 discloses preventing dullness with composite functional powders, but does not provide solutions to the problems of greyish color in dark-colored cosmetics.
[0006] There is a demand for a solid powder cosmetic that reduces the greyish color and the difference between the external color and the applied color even in dark colors while maintaining the functions of a foundation such as covering power, color tone, and usability on the applicator.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0007] In view of the above situation, as a result of intensive studies by the present inventors, it has been found that a solid powder cosmetic that solves the above problems can be obtained by containing iron oxide, a yellow organic pigment, an oil phase with a predetermined viscosity, and pigment-grade titanium oxide in a predetermined amount, and the present invention has been completed.
[0008] That is, according to one embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a solid powder cosmetic comprising: (A) 10 to 50% by mass of iron oxide; (B) 2 to 40% by mass of a yellow organic pigment; (C) ④ to 15% by mass of an oil phase; and (D) 0.1 to 3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium oxide, wherein the viscosity of the component (C) is less than 2500 mPa·s.
[0009] The solid powder cosmetic preferably has a color tone of 27 < L* < 60, 8 < a* < 21, and 7 < b* < 47.
[0010] In the solid powder cosmetic, it is preferable that the oil phase (C) contains one or more selected from phenyl trimethicone, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, dimethicone, squalane, octyldodecanol, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, jojoba seed oil, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and diphenyl dimethicone.
[0011] It is preferable that the solid powder cosmetic contains substantially no powder having a refractive index of 1.7 or more other than the iron oxide and pigment-grade titanium oxide.
[0012] In the solid powder cosmetic, it is preferable that the iron oxide (A) contains yellow iron oxide, and the mass ratio of the yellow iron oxide to the yellow organic pigment (B) is 1:0.2-2.5. [Effects of the Invention]
[0013] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a dark-colored solid powder cosmetic that reduces the grayish appearance and the difference between the appearance color and the applied color while maintaining the functions of a foundation, such as coverage, color tone, and ease of application to an applicator. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0014] According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic. The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment contains at least the following: (A) 10 to 50 mass% iron oxide (B) 2 to 40 mass% of a yellow organic pigment (C) 4 to 15 mass% oil phase (D) 0.1 to 3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium dioxide The viscosity of (C) is less than 2500 mPa·s.
[0015] As used herein, a solid powder cosmetic refers to a cosmetic produced by press molding, comprising a powder as the main ingredient and an oil phase that acts as a binder or adhesive for the powder. The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment is a dry-molded solid powder cosmetic. A dry-molded solid powder cosmetic refers to a cosmetic produced by filling a bulk into a mold and compressing it using a press mold. Note that a wet-molded solid powder cosmetic differs from a dry-molded cosmetic in that it is produced by adding a solvent such as water to the bulk to form a slurry, filling the mold, and then pressing the mixture to dry and evaporate the solvent, resulting in a cosmetic produced by molding. This cosmetic is characterized by the use of a volatile solvent in the molding process. Hereinafter, in this specification, the "solid powder cosmetic" according to the present invention may be abbreviated to simply "cosmetic."
[0016] The essential components (A), (B), (C), and (D) that make up the solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment will be described below.
[0017] (A) Iron oxide Component (A) is 10 to 50 mass % of iron oxide. The iron oxide may be an iron oxide commonly used in cosmetics, including, but not limited to, one or more of red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide. The mass ratio of red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use the iron oxide in an amount of 10 to 50 mass % of iron oxide, including component (B) described later, to achieve a desired color tone (L). * a * b * ) is preferably contained in a mass ratio that satisfies the above formula (1). Details will be described later.
[0018] The shape of the iron oxide is not particularly limited and may include, but is not limited to, any shape, such as spheres, granules, polyhedral shapes such as octahedrons, scales, needles, or irregular shapes. When two or more types of iron oxides, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide, are contained, the shapes of the two or more types of iron oxides may be the same or different. Furthermore, the iron oxide of component (A) may be surface-treated. Examples of surface treatment agents that may be used include, but are not limited to, dimethicone, methicone, disodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl lysine, sodium dilauroyl glutamate lysine, sodium lauroyl aspartate, aluminum dimyristate, magnesium stearate, silica, triethoxycaprylylsilane, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and hydrogenated lecithin.
[0019] Specific product names of red iron oxide include SA-C3380010 RED BROYE (Miyoshi Eurore SAS), AM-200P (Titanium Kogyo Co., Ltd.), Shippo-in (Morishita Bengara Kogyo Co., Ltd.), and TAROX Synthetic Iron Oxide R-516P (Titanium Kogyo Co., Ltd.); specific product names of yellow iron oxide include SA-C3390010 YELLOW BROYE (Miyoshi Eurore SAS) and TAROX Synthetic Iron Oxide LL-100P (Titanium Kogyo Co., Ltd.); and specific product names of black iron oxide include SA-C3370010 BLACK BROYE (Miyoshi Eurore SAS), BM-200P (Titanium Kogyo Co., Ltd.), ABL-412HP (Titanium Kogyo Co., Ltd.), and TAROX Synthetic Iron Oxide BL-100P (Titanium Kogyo Co., Ltd.), but are not limited to these.
[0020] Component (A) is contained in an amount of 10% by mass or more and 50% by mass or less, assuming the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic to be 100%. If the content of component (A) is less than 10% by mass, the covering power and color development will be insufficient. If the content of component (A) is more than 50% by mass, the grayish appearance will be stronger when applied to the skin, resulting in a difference between the applied color and the appearance color. In addition, the feel of removal will be poor and color development will be reduced. Here, the feel of removal refers to the ease with which the cosmetic is removed from the applicator. The content of component (A) is preferably 15% by mass or more and 45% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or more and 40% by mass or less. Here, the applied color refers to the color when an appropriate amount of the solid powder cosmetic is applied to the user's skin, and the appearance color refers to the color when the solid powder cosmetic is stored in bulk in a container. If a difference occurs between the applied color and the exterior color, there may be a disadvantage that the exterior color has good color development and moderate saturation, but when applied, the color development is poor and the saturation is low, resulting in a grayish appearance.
[0021] (B) Yellow organic pigment Component (B) is a yellow organic pigment in an amount of 2 to 40% by mass. The yellow organic pigment can improve the color development of the cosmetic and thereby reduce the grayish appearance. In particular, the amount of the specified yellow iron oxide can be reduced and the yellow organic pigment can be used as a substitute for the yellow iron oxide, thereby achieving the desired color tone described in detail below and reducing the grayish appearance.
[0022] The yellow organic pigment can be any yellow organic pigment used in the cosmetics field. Specific product names include UNIPURE YELLOW LC125 (manufactured by Sensient Technologies Japan Co., Ltd.). This product is labeled Yellow 4 in Japan and Yellow 5 Lake in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). Another product name is 9610 FD&C YELLOW 6 LAKE (manufactured by Sensient Colors Inc.). This product is labeled Yellow 5 in Japan and Yellow 6 Lake in the INCI. These two different yellow organic pigments may be mixed together.
[0023] Component (B) is contained in an amount of 2% by mass or more and 40% by mass or less, assuming the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic to be 100%. If the content of component (A) is less than 2% by mass, color development will be insufficient. If the content of component (A) is more than 40% by mass, the feeling of removal will be poor. The content of component (A) is preferably 3% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less, and more preferably 4% by mass or more and 20% by mass or less.
[0024] (C) Oil phase Component (C) is the oil phase. The oil phase refers to a phase consisting of an oil component, and may be a phase consisting of a single oil or a mixture of multiple oils. The oil phase may be a liquid oil, a paste-like oil, or a mixture of low-viscosity and high-viscosity oils, as long as its viscosity is less than 2500 mPa·s. Therefore, even if an oil with a viscosity of 2500 mPa·s or higher is contained alone, it is acceptable as long as the viscosity of the oil phase mixed with other oils is less than 2500 mPa·s. An oil phase with a viscosity of less than 2500 mPa·s provides excellent dispersibility for the yellow organic pigment (component (B)), allowing for a clear color to be applied to the user's skin and contributing to reducing the grayish appearance.
[0025] Here, the viscosity of the oil phase refers to the viscosity measured using a BM II type viscometer with a spindle rotor at a measurement temperature of 25°C. The measurement conditions for each viscosity range (spindle number - revolutions per minute - measurement time) are as follows: ~80mPa / s [1-60-60] 81~160mPa / s [1-30-30] 161~400mPa / s [2-60-60] 401~800mPa / s [2-30-30] 801~2000mPa / s [2-12-30] 2001~4000mPa / s[2-6-30] 4001~8000mPa / s[3-12-30] The viscosity of the oil phase may be the viscosity of the oil phase itself if it consists of a single oil. Furthermore, the viscosity of a mixed oil consisting of two or more different oil phases is the viscosity measured for the mixture. The viscosity of the oil phase is preferably less than 360 Pa·s, and more preferably less than 130 Pa·s.
[0026] The oils constituting the oil phase of component (C) may be, for example, oils having the above-mentioned viscosity, either alone or in combination, and preferably include, but are not limited to, natural fats and oils, hydrocarbon oils, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, and silicone oils. Specific examples of oils include, but are not limited to, dimethicone, squalane, octyldodecanol, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, jojoba seed oil, phenyl trimethicone, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diisostearyl malate, phytosteryl macadamiate, polyhydroxystearic acid, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, and dimethicone.
[0027] Component (C) is contained in an amount of 4% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less, assuming the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic to be 100%. If the content of component (C) is less than 4% by mass, color development will be reduced. If the content of component (C) is more than 15% by mass, the feeling of removal will be poor. The content of component (C) is preferably 5% by mass or more and 13% by mass or less, and more preferably 6% by mass or more and 11% by mass or less.
[0028] (D) Pigment-grade titanium dioxide Component (D) is 0.1 to 3 mass% of pigment-grade titanium oxide. Pigment-grade titanium oxide has a high refractive index, high hiding power, and increases whiteness when applied. The average particle size of the pigment-grade titanium oxide may be 100 nm to 1000 nm, and there are no particular limitations on the presence or absence of surface treatment and the particle shape.
[0029] Component (D) is preferably contained in an amount of 0.1% by mass or more and 3% by mass or less, assuming the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic to be 100%. If the content of component (D) is more than 3% by mass, the grayish appearance increases, and the difference between the applied color and the external color becomes greater. If the content of component (D) is less than 0.1% by mass, the covering power decreases and the product will no longer function as a foundation. The content of component (D) is more preferably 0.2% by mass or more and 2% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 1.5% by mass or less.
[0030] (E) Other ingredients The other components may be other components commonly used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, pharmaceutical compositions, etc., other than the oil phase. Specific examples include powder components other than components (A), (B), and (D), water, dyes, water-soluble polymeric compounds, fragrances, surfactants, film-forming agents, additives, resins, antibacterial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters, moisturizers, alcohols such as polyhydric alcohols and lower alcohols, sugars, ultraviolet absorbers, whitening agents, skin activators, blood circulation promoters, antiseborrheic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, astringents, and cooling agents.
[0031] In one embodiment, the solid powder cosmetic preferably contains substantially no powders with a high refractive index other than (A) iron oxide and (D) pigment-grade titanium oxide, and preferably contains substantially no powders with a refractive index of 1.7 or higher other than iron oxide and pigment-grade titanium oxide. The phrase "substantially free of powders with a refractive index of 1.7 or higher other than iron oxide and pigment-grade titanium oxide" refers to the content of powders with a refractive index of 1.7 or higher, excluding iron oxide and pigment-grade titanium oxide, being 1% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the cosmetic. This is because powders with a high refractive index, particularly powders with a refractive index of 1.7 or higher, may impart a grayish appearance when applied to the skin. Examples of powders with a refractive index of 1.7 or higher include boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, and zinc oxide. Although (A) iron oxide and (D) pigment-grade titanium oxide have high refractive indices, by including them in amounts within the above ranges, they can exert covering power while suppressing the grayish appearance.
[0032] The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment is <L * <60, 8 * <21, 7 * It is preferable that the color tone has a range satisfying <47, and 32 <L * <60, 9 * <18, 11 * It is even more preferable that the color tone is within a range that satisfies <36. To achieve this color tone, it is preferable to blend the black iron oxide, red iron oxide, and yellow iron oxide contained in component (A) in a mass ratio of 1:1-3:0.4-15. It is also preferable to blend the yellow iron oxide contained in component (A) and the yellow organic pigment of component (B) in a mass ratio of 1:0.2-2.5.
[0033] The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment can be produced by a dry molding method. The dry molding method includes the steps of mixing components (A) to (D) and, optionally, component (E), filling the mixture into a container such as a metal dish, and pressure-molding the filled mixture. In the mixing step, the powder components including components (A), (B), and (D) are pulverized at room temperature using a conventional pulverizer or the like, and the oil phase of component (C) and optional ingredients are added, and all ingredients can be mixed using a conventional stirrer or the like. After mixing, the components may optionally be further pulverized using a pulverizer. The mixed composition can be pulverized using a pulverizer or the like. In the filling step, the bulk cosmetic obtained by mixing and pulverization is filled into a container such as a metal dish according to a typical dry molding method. In the pressure-molding step, the mixture filled into the container is molded by applying pressure using a mold or the like to obtain a solid powder cosmetic.
[0034] The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment may be any cosmetic that can be applied to the skin, and may be in the form of a makeup cosmetic, a cosmetic, or an external preparation for skin. Specific examples include, but are not limited to, powdery foundation, bronzer, and shading.
[0035] Furthermore, when the solid powder cosmetic according to the present embodiment is used as a foundation, the target user may be, for example, a user whose skin color falls within the range of 10° > ITA° > -30° brown and -30° > ITA° dark based on the Individual Typology Angle (ITA°). ITA° is the angle at which light is reflected from the skin when light is irradiated onto the skin. * a * b * The color index can be calculated by the following formula: ITA°=[Arc Tangent((L * -50) / b * ]180 / π [Example]
[0036] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.
[0037] The solid powder cosmetics according to the Examples and Comparative Examples were manufactured as follows. Of the components in Tables 1 to 5, the oil phase component (C) was added to pre-weighed powder components (A), (B), and (D), and mixed in a Henschel mixer. The resulting mixture was then pulverized in a pulverizer. The mixture was then passed through a sieve and pressed into a metal dish. The operation was generally carried out at room temperature.
[0038] In producing the solid powder cosmetics, the viscosity of the oils that make up the oil phase and the oil phase itself were measured. The viscosity of "Macadamia Nanz fatty acid phytosteryl" was measured using a Brookfield digital viscometer (manufactured by AMETEK). The viscosity of the other oils and oil phases was measured using a BM II type viscometer (manufactured by Toki Sangyo). The measurement temperature was 25°C, and measurements were taken using a spindle rotor. The conditions of rotation speed (rpm (revolutions per minute)) and rotation time (seconds) were changed depending on the oil. The viscosity measurement results for the oils are shown in Table 1.
[0039] [Table 1] *1 KF-96A-20cs (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) *2 Cosmol 43V (Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.) *3 Lithorex PGIS23 / MB (Kyushu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.) *4 DOWSIL SH 200 Fluid 3,000 cSt (Dow Toray Industries, Inc.)
[0040] The evaluation items and evaluation contents of the produced solid powder cosmetics were as follows. (1) Color development (application) Each solid powder cosmetic was applied to Bio Skin with a puff and the applied color was evaluated. Good color development was rated as high. (2) Grayish color of the applied color Each solid powder cosmetic was applied to Bio Skin with a puff and evaluated for a grayish appearance. A lack of a grayish appearance was rated as high. (3) Difference between exterior color and applied color The appearance color of each solid powder cosmetic was compared with the color of each solid powder cosmetic when applied to Bio Skin with a puff, and the evaluation was performed. A small difference between the appearance color and the applied color was given a high rating. (4) Moderate coverage Each solid powder cosmetic was applied to Bio Skin with a puff and the covering power was evaluated. Products with good covering power were rated as high. (5) Feeling of looseness Each solid powder cosmetic was applied to the puff 10 times in the same direction, and the degree of application to the puff was evaluated. Good application was rated as high. (6) Color tone Each solid powder cosmetic product filled in a container was measured using a spectrophotometer SE 6000 (manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.) and the color difference was <L * <60,8 * <21,7 * We evaluated whether the results fell within the range of <47.
[0041] The color tone of the Bioskin used in the evaluation was measured using a spectrophotometer: CM-2600d (Konica Minolta), and the results were as follows: L * :29.10, a * :1.36, b * The color tone was 1.35. This color tone was within the range of the expected skin color of the user, 10° > ITA° > -30° brown and -30° > ITA° dark.
[0042] The evaluation items (1) to (5) were visually evaluated by five panelists. Each panelist rated each of the evaluation items (1) to (5) on a five-point scale, with 1 point representing the worst evaluation and 5 points representing the best evaluation. The average score of the evaluation results of the five panelists was then calculated to determine a four-point scale for the cosmetic. Average score between 4.0 and 5.0: A Average score is between 3.0 and 4.0: B Average score is between 2.0 and 3.0: C Average score is between 1.0 and 2.0 :D For the evaluation item (6), if the color tone was within the above range, it was given an A, and if it was not within the range, it was given a D.
[0043] The compositions and evaluation results of the cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples are shown in Tables 2 to 9. Unless otherwise specified, the values in the tables indicate the content (mass %) of each component in the cosmetic. For all cosmetics, the remainder was methicone-treated synthetic fluorophlogopite, and the total amount was 100%. In the tables, "-" indicates that the component was not present in the cosmetic (0%). In all Examples and Comparative Examples, titanium oxide with an average particle size of 0.25 μm was used as component D titanium oxide. Furthermore, "oil phase viscosity" refers to the viscosity of the oil phase of component C after mixing all of the oils contained in the cosmetic, and the measurement conditions were the same as those for component C above. The unit is mPa / s. Tables 5 and 9 also list Example 1 for comparison. For component A red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide, unless otherwise specified in the tables, acicular red iron oxide and yellow iron oxide were used, and spherical black iron oxide was used.
[0044] [Table 2]
[0045] [Table 3]
[0046] [Table 4]
[0047] [Table 5]
[0048] [Table 6]
[0049]
Table 7
[0050]
Table 8
[0051]
Table 9
Claims
1. (A) 10 to 50 mass% of iron oxide (B) 2 to 40% by mass of a yellow organic pigment (C) 4 to 15% by mass of an oil phase (D) 0.1 to 3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium dioxide wherein the viscosity of (C) at 25°C is less than 2500 mPa·s, and the color tone is 27<L*<60, 8<a*<21, and 7<b*<47.
2. 2. The solid powder cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the oil phase of (C) comprises one or more selected from phenyl trimethicone, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, dimethicone, squalane, octyldodecanol, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, jojoba seed oil, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and diphenyl dimethicone.
3. 2. The solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1, which does not contain any powder having a refractive index of 1.7 or more other than the iron oxide (A) and the pigment-grade titanium oxide (D).
4. 2. The solid powder cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the iron oxide (A) comprises yellow iron oxide, and the mass ratio of the yellow iron oxide to the yellow organic pigment (B) is 1:0.2 to 2.5.
Citation Information
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