A cosmetic and / or skin composition comprising at least one merocyanine and at least ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising: a) a compound of formula (I): The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least one merocyanine corresponding to JPEG2024546871000038.jpg27170 and also its geometric isomeric forms, in particular its E / E or E / Z geometric isomeric forms, b) ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, comprising applying to the surface of said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined above.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or skin composition comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (I), as defined in detail below, and ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof.

[0002] These compositions are primarily intended to prevent and / or treat signs of aging in keratinous substances such as skin, in particular to increase collagen synthesis. [Background technology]

[0003] Human skin is composed of the following two tissues: the superficial tissue (epidermis) and the deep tissue (dermis).

[0004] Natural human epidermis is primarily composed of three types of cells: keratinocytes, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells, which make up the majority of the skin. Each of these cell types, through its unique function, contributes to the essential roles that skin plays in the body, particularly its "barrier function," which protects the body from external attacking factors (such as climate, ultraviolet radiation, and smoking).

[0005] The dermis acts as a solid supporting layer for the epidermis. It is also the building block that supplies nutrients. It is primarily composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix, which is largely made up of substances known as collagen, elastin, and matrix. These components are synthesized by fibroblasts. White blood cells, mast cells, and tissue macrophages are also present. Finally, blood vessels and nerve fibers pass through the dermis.

[0006] The adhesion between the epidermis and dermis is provided by the dermal-epidermal junction. This is a complex region approximately 100 nm thick, encompassing the basal poles of basal keratinocytes, the epidermal membrane, and the subbasal zone of the upper dermis (Non-Patent Literature 1). From a structural standpoint, hemidesmosomes with inserted keratin filaments (hemidesmosome-tonofilament complexes) are distributed on the plasma membrane of basal keratinocytes. Facing these hemidesmosome-tonofilament complexes are anchoring filaments that cross the epidermal basement membrane. The anchoring filaments are connected to laminin 5 on the epidermal side. Finally, the anchoring fibers constitute a subbasal network. These are curved structures that begin and end on the deep surface of the basement membrane, with collagen I, III, and V fibers engaging with them. These anchoring fibers can be fully visualized by electron microscopy and have been shown to be composed of type VII collagen (hereinafter referred to as collagen VII). Collagen VII is synthesized by keratinocytes and fibroblasts, but the majority of it is synthesized by keratinocytes (Non-Patent Document 2, Non-Patent Document 3).

[0007] Therefore, collagen is the major protein of the extracellular matrix. To date, 20 types of collagen have been identified, and types I to XX are recognized. These types include various collagen families depending on the structure they form, as follows: Fibrous collagen families (Type I, Type II, Type II, Type V / XI) that form fibers; A family of collagens that forms a network of five basement membranes, including type VI and type XVII collagens; Collagen forming a hexagonal network (types VIII and X), bead-like filaments (type VI), and FACIT (types IX, XII, XIV, XVI, XIX, and XX); Mooring fibers corresponding to Type VII; Multiplexins (type XV, type XVII), and Type XIII collagen (its exact function is currently unknown).

[0008] In the skin, the collagens that are mainly present throughout the dermis are type I and type III collagens, which form the extracellular matrix of the entire dermis (these collagens constitute 70 - 80% of the dry mass of the dermis).

[0009] Furthermore, not all collagens are synthesized by the same cell type: type I and type III collagens are basically produced by dermal fibroblasts, while type VII collagen is produced by epidermal keratinocytes. Finally, the regulation of their expression is different for each collagen: for example, collagens I and VII are not regulated in the same way by specific cytokines. Specifically, TNF alpha and leucoregulin stimulate collagen VII and negatively regulate collagen I.

[0010] Finally, all collagen molecules are variants of a common precursor, procollagen of the alpha chain.

[0011] With aging, collagen becomes thinner and wrinkles appear on the surface of the skin. Skin aging is a genetically programmed mechanism. Furthermore, certain environmental factors such as smoking, especially exposure to sunlight, accelerate it. Therefore, areas exposed to sunlight, such as the back of the hands or facial skin, look much older. Therefore, these other factors also have an adverse effect on the skin's natural collagen.

[0012] Therefore, considering the decisive role of collagen, especially type I collagen, in the adhesion between the epidermal and dermal tissues, and thus in the integrity of the skin and its resistance to mechanical external attack factors, stimulating the synthesis of these various forms of collagen seems to be an effective means of alleviating the symptoms of skin aging.

Prior Art Documents

Non-Patent Documents

[0013]

Non-Patent Document 1

[0014] The object of the present invention is, more precisely, to propose a novel cosmetic and / or dermatological composition that limits signs of aging of keratinous substances such as skin, whether chronobiological or photoinduced, particularly aging caused by a decrease in skin elasticity and / or the breakdown of collagen in the structure of skin tissue.

[0015] However, it is extremely difficult to find cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions that are particularly suitable for preventing and / or treating signs of aging of keratinous substances such as skin, in order to improve skin quality, such as its mechanical elasticity, and at the same time exhibit good cosmetic and sensory properties, particularly a fresh and smooth feeling upon application or a pleasant (especially soft) skin finish.

[0016] Based on the above, it is clear that there is still a consumer demand for cosmetic and / or skin compositions that are suitable for preventing and / or treating signs of aging of keratinous substances such as skin, and that at the same time have satisfactory cosmetic properties, particularly their sensory properties when applied, especially their tactile feel. [Means for solving the problem]

[0017] This invention aims to satisfy precisely these requirements.

[0018] The applicant has found, remarkably, that by combining merocyanine of formula (I), as defined below, with ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, it is possible to substantially enhance the effects of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives upon exposure to UV-A radiation, particularly due to the remarkable improvement in the effect of this combination on procollagen production.

[0019] The applicant has surprisingly found that cosmetic and / or skin compositions comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below and at least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives enable effective prevention and / or treatment of signs of aging of keratinous substances such as skin, particularly when exposed to UV-A radiation, while exhibiting particularly good cosmetic properties.

[0020] In particular, the applicant has found that these cosmetic and / or skin compositions according to the present invention, comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below and at least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, and a UVA screening agent in a content of less than 10% by mass, and more particularly less than 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, can effectively prevent and / or treat signs of aging of keratinous substances such as skin, while exhibiting good cosmetic properties, the latter being less oily and less sticky than comparable compositions containing higher content organic UVA screening agents.

[0021] The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up a keratinous substance, and also to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method comprising applying at least one composition according to the present invention as defined above to the surface of the keratinous substance.

[0022] The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating signs of aging of keratinous material, such as photoaging, and also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method comprising applying at least one of the previously defined compositions to the surface of keratinous material.

[0023] The present invention relates to the use of at least one merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below, in combination with ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, to reduce or treat signs of aging, particularly signs of photoaging of the skin, to improve the elasticity, firmness and uniformity, micro-irregularity and / or wrinkles and fine lines of the facial skin, and / or to reduce signs associated with elastic fibrosis of keratinous substances such as skin.

[0024] The combination according to the present invention is effective in more effectively combating signs of skin aging and / or stimulating the skin's regeneration / repair process.

[0025] Accordingly, the combination according to the present invention has particular uses in cosmetic compositions intended to prevent and / or treat skin signs, particularly topically, that relate to signs of aging skin, especially wrinkled skin, skin showing a decrease in its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties and / or changes in its surface appearance, with the aim of preventing and / or treating skin aging.

[0026] In particular, and surprisingly, it was found that the merocyanine of formula (I), as defined below, can stimulate and enhance the action of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives on the production of procollagen I by fibroblasts.

[0027] Other features, embodiments, and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows.

[0028] The compositions according to the present invention are intended for topical application and therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" as used herein means a medium compatible with keratinic substances.

[0029] In relation to the present invention, the term "keratinous material" means, in particular, keratin fibers such as skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair, and body hair, as well as mucous membranes such as nails and lips, and more particularly skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0030] According to the present invention, the terms "prevent" or "prevent" mean reducing or delaying the appearance of a given phenomenon, namely, signs of aging of keratin material according to the present invention.

[0031] By using compositions according to the present invention comprising merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below, ascorbic acid, and / or derivatives thereof, it becomes possible to more particularly maintain and / or restore the biomechanical properties of the skin and / or prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

[0032] The term "biomechanical properties of the skin" as used herein means the elasticity, tension, stiffness, flexibility, and / or resilience of the skin.

[0033] The term “signs of skin aging” means, as used herein, changes in the appearance of the skin resulting from aging, whether or not it is chronobiological and / or exogenous aging, in particular photoinduced or hormonal aging; among these signs, the following may be observed: - Wrinkled skin, particularly as evidenced by the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines; - Skin exhibiting impaired viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, or skin that has lost elasticity, and / or extensibility, and / or firmness, and / or flexibility, and / or tautness, particularly as reflected in skin that is shriveled, loose, sagging, or drooping; - Skin showing impaired tissue adhesion; - Thinned skin; and - Skin that exhibits a disorder in its surface appearance, particularly a disorder of the skin's texture, such as unevenness.

[0034] The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of one or more compounds of formula (I) according to the present invention and ascorbic acid and / or derivatives thereof as agents for preventing and / or reducing signs of skin aging.

[0035] Therefore, according to the first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or skin composition for makeup and / or care of keratin substances, - The following equation (I): [Chemical formula 1] [ka] (In the formula, - A is -O- or -NH; - R is C1~C 22 Alkyl alkyl groups, C2-C 22 Alkenyl group, C2~C 22 Alkynyl group, C3~C 22 Cycloalkyl groups or C3-C 22 (A cycloalkenyl group, which may be interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms.) at least one merocyanine and its E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer form; - At least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives This relates to cosmetic and / or skin compositions containing the following:

[0036] In another aspect thereof, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method, particularly a non-therapeutic method, for caring for keratinous substances of the body and / or face, the method comprising at least one step of applying the composition defined above to the keratinous substance.

[0037] Other features, embodiments, and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0038] The composition according to the present invention is for cosmetic and / or skin use, and is preferably for cosmetic use.

[0039] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with the skin.

[0040] This is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium having a pleasant color, smell and feel and not causing any unacceptable discomfort which might deter the user from applying the composition, i.e. a stinging, tugging or reddening sensation.

[0041] Meroscyanine As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention has the following formula (I): [Chemical formula 2]

Chem.

[0042] As mentioned above, the merocyanine compounds of the invention can be in the form of their E / E- or E / Z-geometric isomers. [Chemical formula 3]

Chem.

[0043] In the compound of formula (I), preferably, A is -O- and R is a C1-C 22 alkyl which may be interrupted by one or more O's.

[0044] Of the compounds of formula (I), at least one selected from the following compounds and their E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms is used.

[0045] [Table 1]

[0046] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, compounds (A) and / or (C) and mixtures thereof, more preferably compound (C) having an E / E and / or E / Z geometric configuration thereof, are used.

[0047] Therefore, preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohexa-2-ene-1-ylidene}ethanoate (C), also known as methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate, in its E / E and / or E / Z geometric configuration.

[0048] The E / Z configuration has the following structure: [Chemical formula 4] [ka]

[0049] The E / E configuration has the following structure: [Chemical formula 5] [ka]

[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains at least one merocyanine of formula (I) defined above in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0051] In general, merocyanine-type compounds can be prepared by known methods, as described in, for example, J.Org.Chem.USSR (English translation) 26(8), p.1562f (1990); J.Heterocycl.Chem. 33(3), pages 763-766 (1996); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 11, pages 1537-1543 (1984); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 3, pages 397-404 (1982); Chem.Heterocycl.Comp. (English translation), 24(8), 914-919 (1988) and Synthetic Communications, Vol.33, No.3, 2003, pages 367-371.

[0052] With regard to compounds of formula (I) having the distinctive feature of having a carbocyclic ring containing six carbon atoms, which are of particular consideration in the present invention, they may be prepared according to the protocols described in International Publication No. 2007 / 071582, IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D, titled “Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-1-ylidene compounds”, and U.S. Patent No. A-4,749,643, column 13, line 66 to column 14, line 57, and the references cited herein.

[0053] In particular, the compound of formula (I) in Table 1 above is described in B. Winkler et al., Tetrahedron Letters, 55 (2014) 1749-1751 (title "A cyclic merocyanine UV-A absorber: Mechanism of formation and crystal structure"), and the compound of formula (I) can be synthesized according to the synthetic scheme shown below. [Chemical formula 6] [ka]

[0054] Regarding compound (C) in Table 1, the following synthesis scheme is preferred. [Chemical formula 7] [ka]

[0055] The synthesis shown by this scheme will be described in particular detail in Example A4 below.

[0056] Ascorbic acid and / or derivatives As described above, the composition according to the present invention contains ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, and / or its derivatives.

[0057] In particular, the compositions according to the present invention contain 0.01% to 30% by mass, more particularly 2% to 20% by mass, and preferably 5% to 15% by mass, ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, also known as vitamin C, more preferably ascorbic acid, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains 2% to 20% by mass, more preferably 5% to 15% by mass, of an active substance of ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof, also known as vitamin C, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0059] More preferably, the compositions according to the present invention contain 2% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 15% by mass, of an active ascorbic acid based on the total mass of the composition.

[0060] Ascorbic acid may be in the D or L form, preferably the L form.

[0061] For example, the ascorbic acid according to the present invention is sold by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory under the trade name Ascorbic Acid EP / BP / USP / FCC / E300 (registered trademark), by CSPC Weisheng Pharmaceutical under the name Ascorbic Acid 100 MESH (registered trademark), or by DSM under the name Ascorbic Acid Ultra Fine Powder (registered trademark).

[0062] The ascorbic acid derivative according to the present invention can be selected from its salts, esters, ethers, and sugars.

[0063] Salts of ascorbic acid can be selected from, in particular, sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, their ethers, especially their acetate, propionate, or palmitate esters, or their sugars, especially glycosylated ascorbic acid.

[0064] Because ascorbic acid is highly sensitive due to its chemical structure (alpha-ketractone), it may be advantageous to use it in the form of a sugar ester of ascorbic acid or a metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

[0065] The sugar esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the present invention are, in particular, glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine and N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, more particularly ascorbyl-2-glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and methods for preparing them are described in particular in European Patent Application Publication A-487404, European Patent Application Publication A-425066 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 05-213736.

[0066] The metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbate can be selected from alkali metals of ascorbyl phosphate, alkaline earth metals and transition metals of ascorbyl phosphate, and magnesium, sodium, potassium, calcium, and zinc of ascorbyl phosphate.

[0067] According to certain embodiments, the ascorbic acid derivative is selected from ascorbyl-2-glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.

[0068] More specifically, the ascorbic acid derivative is selected from ascorbyl-2 glucoside (or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

[0069] Ascorbic acid derivatives may be 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or ethyl ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid, 3-O-ethyl ether).

[0070] For example, ascorbyl-2-glucoside (or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid) is sold by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory under the trade name L-Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside (registered trademark) (containing 100% ascorbyl-2-glucoside active substance) or by Hayashibara under the trade name L-Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside (registered trademark) (containing 100% ascorbyl-2-glucoside active substance).

[0071] For example, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or ethyl ascorbic acid) is sold by Nippon Hypox Laboratories under the trade name Vitamin C Ethyl (registered trademark) (containing 100% 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid active substance).

[0072] For example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (73% active substance in water) is sold by Showa Denko under the trade name Ascorbyl PM (registered trademark), by Jingjiang Hengtong Bio-Engineering under the trade name Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (registered trademark), or by Merck under the trade name Ronacare MAP (registered trademark).

[0073] aqueous phase The composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase and optionally an oily phase.

[0074] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent, and is preferably a single phase.

[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention has a water content of 10% to 98% by mass, preferably 25% to 90% by mass, and more preferably 35% to 85% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0076] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble organic solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and is miscible with water (miscibility with water exceeds 50% by mass at atmospheric pressure at 25°C).

[0077] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention may also be volatile. In particular, to obtain compositions having a BC3 content of >0.9%, a water-soluble co-solvent is used in addition to the hydrotrope.

[0078] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the present invention, lower monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be used in particular, and alkylene carbonates can also be used.

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention also includes at least one alcohol, particularly a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.

[0080] Preferably, in the composition according to the present invention, the alcohol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by mass, more preferably 2.0% to 25% by mass, and more preferably 3.0% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0081] According to a modified embodiment, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one C2-C 32 It may contain polyols.

[0082] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0083] Preferably, the polyol according to the present invention exists in liquid form at room temperature.

[0084] Suitable polyols for use in the present invention may be linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl compounds having at least two -OH groups, particularly at least three -OH groups, and more particularly at least four -OH groups on the alkyl chain.

[0085] In particular, polyols particularly suitable for constituting the composition according to the present invention are those containing 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0086] Polyols can be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C3 ketones and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, glycerol oligomers, and other polyglycerols such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol (DPG), caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol (PEG), and mixtures thereof.

[0088] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one polyol, particularly a polyol selected from glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol (DPG), PEG-8, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least one polyol, particularly a polyol selected from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol (DPG), and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the composition of the present invention may contain at least dipropylene glycol (DPG) as a polyol.

[0091] If polyols are present, they may be present in a content of 0.5% to 40% by mass, more preferably 10% to 20% by mass, more preferably 5% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 7% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0092] According to another specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention is, in particular, the following formula (II): [Chemical formula 8] [ka] (In the formula, R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; m is 1, 2, or 3. It may contain at least one alkylene carbonate selected from the following.

[0093] Preferably, the group R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0094] R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0095] Preferably, m is 1.

[0096] Particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates include compounds in which the group R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), an ethyl group (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), or a hydroxymethyl group (R'=-CH2OH; corresponding to glyceryl carbonate).

[0097] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

[0098] Alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates may be present in the composition according to the present invention at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 98% by mass, particularly 0.5% to 50% by mass, preferably 1% to 20% by mass, even more particularly 1% to 10% by mass, and especially 1% to 6% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0099] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention includes nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylate, sodium pyroglutamic acid (PCA sodium), sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium benzenesulfonate, sodium p-toluenesulfonate (NaPTS), sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate (NaBMGS), HCl 4-aminobenzoate, sodium cumenesulfonate, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, and N-picolylnicotinamide. The compounds also include at least one hydrotrope selected from tinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide, procaine HCl, proline HCl, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, ibuprofen sodium, sodium xylenesulfonate (SXS), ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide, isoniazid, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope selected from nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Salicylates can be selected from sodium salicylate, lysine salicylate, arginine salicylate, magnesium salicylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the salicylate is sodium salicylate.

[0103] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least nicotinamide as a hydrotrope.

[0104] The content of the hydrotrope according to the present invention present in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1% to 20% by mass, particularly 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 10% by mass, and especially 0.5% to 3% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0105] Therefore, according to one modified embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may contain, together with at least one hydrotrope, at least one organic solvent selected particularly from alcohols, particularly polyols and alkylene carbonates.

[0106] In addition to the solvents mentioned above, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one organic solvent selected from the following: - Ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, or acetone; - Cyclic ethers such as γ-butyrolactone; - Short-chain esters such as ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, methoxypropyl acetate, or butyl lactate (containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms), - Ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether, or dichlorodiethyl ether; - Alkanes that are liquid at room temperature, such as decane, heptane, dodecane, or cyclohexane; - Alkyl sulfoxides such as dimethyl sulfoxide; - Aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; - 3-Ethoxypropionate ethyl; - Acetals such as methylal; and - These mixtures.

[0107] The aqueous phase may also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compounds that are miscible with the aqueous phase, such as stabilizers, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 1% to 100% by mass, preferably 20% to 95% by mass, and more preferably 30% to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0109] fat phase As described above, the composition according to the present invention may contain at least one fatty phase.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty phase" means a phase comprising at least one oil and any lipid-soluble and lipophilic components and fatty substances used to constitute the composition of the present invention.

[0111] In particular, the composition according to the present invention may contain a fatty phase in an amount of 5% to 95% by mass, preferably 10% to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0112] The fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention may include oils, waxes, paste-like compounds and / or silicone compounds, preferably at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil.

[0113] oil The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and is immiscible with water.

[0114] A fatty phase suitable for preparing compositions according to the present invention, particularly cosmetic compositions, may include hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0115] Oils can be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0116] These may be of animal, plant, mineral, or synthetic origin.

[0117] The fatty phase may include, in addition to the merocyanine screening agent and optionally additional lipophilic screening agents, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil, and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.

[0118] For the purposes of this invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil having mainly hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0119] The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0120] The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil that contains at least one fluorine atom.

[0121] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl groups or acidic groups.

[0122] Volatile oils For the purposes of this invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that, upon contact with skin, can evaporate in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are those having a non-zero vapor pressure, particularly 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 -3 It is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature and has a vapor pressure in the range of ~300 mmHg, particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0123] The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil.

[0124] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, for example, C8~C 16Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under trade names such as Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Examples include esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Volatile linear alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C) sold by Sasol under the reference names Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and furthermore, these mixtures, undecane-tridecane mixtures, and n-undecane (C) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis International Publication No. 2008 / 155059. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) and mixtures thereof can also be cited.

[0126] Examples of volatile silicone oils include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0127] Examples of volatile cyclic silicone oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, with cyclohexasiloxane being a particularly good example.

[0128] Volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof may also be used.

[0129] Non-volatile oil The term "non-volatile oil" means that the vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is not zero, but 10 -3 This refers to oil with a pH of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0130] Non-volatile oils can be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils, and / or silicone oils.

[0131] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be specifically mentioned include the following: - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - Mineral or synthetic linear or branched hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, etc.), and squalane, and mixtures thereof. - Preferably, a non-volatile alkane having a viscosity of less than 20 mPa·s as measured at 20°C using a Rheomat RM100® viscometer (manufactured by Lamy Rheology). The term "non-volatile alkane" means hydrocarbon cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature and have a vapor pressure of less than 0.01 kPa in particular at 20°C, according to the definition of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of March 11, 1992: "any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K". In particular, non-volatile alkanes are mixtures of alkanes containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly 15 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example, products sold by SEPPIC under the reference names Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19. - Plant-derived hydrocarbon oils, for example, glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol (fatty acids may have a variable chain length of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and these chains may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched); these oils include, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, and Soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, mallow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, and rosehip oil; or further caprylic / capric triglyceride, for example, those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, 812, and 818; - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether. - Synthetic esters, for example, oils of formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 is 10 or more), for example, parcelin oil (cetostearyl octanonate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing 12 to 15 carbon atoms, for example, products sold by Witco under the trade names Finsolv TN or Witconol TN, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegosoft TN, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, for example, X-Tend from ISP Products marketed under the name 226, isopropyl lanolinate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, products sold by Stearinerie Dubois under the name Dub Dis, octanoates, decanoates or ricinolates of alcohols or polyalcohols, e.g., propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, e.g., isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates, e.g., triethyl citrate, with the INCI name C3-C 22 Esters of tricarboxylic acids with C1-C6 alcohols, for example, the product sold by Jungbunzlauer under the name Citrofol AI Extra; tartrates, for example, linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example, the product sold by Enichem Augusta Industriale under the name Cosmacol ETI, and further linear dialkyl tartrates containing 14 or 15 carbon atoms, for example, the product sold by the same company under the name Cosmacol ETL; and acetates, - Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example, a fatty amide such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the trade name Eldew SL205. - Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example, tetrahydroxystearic acid / dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol. - C such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof. 12 ~C 22 higher fatty acids, - Dicaprylyl carbonate, for example, carbonates such as those sold by Cognis under the name Cetiol CC, - Non-phenyl silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone, and - Phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone having a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and mixtures thereof, and also A mixture of these various oils.

[0132] Other fatty substances The fatty phase according to the present invention may also include other fatty substances mixed in or dissolved in oil.

[0133] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase include, for example: - Fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and oleic acid; - Waxes other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or Fischer-Tropsch wax; - Silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl (C1-C4) alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; - Silicone elastomers such as those sold under the name KSG by ShinEtsu, Trefil or BY29 by Dow Corning, or Gransil by Grant Industries; - Rubber selected from silicone rubber (dimethiconol); - Paste-like compounds such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, glycerol oligomer esters, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives; and - These mixtures.

[0134] The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one fatty alcohol wax as a fatty substance. Such waxes may be selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] As a fatty substance, the composition according to the present invention may include at least one butter, particularly a vegetable butter.

[0136] The plant butter suitable for use in the present invention is preferably selected from the group including avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, and urukum butter, as well as mixtures thereof, and is particularly shea butter.

[0137] For example, in order to prepare a composition having desired properties in terms of viscosity or texture, those skilled in the art can select these fatty substances in various ways.

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, non-volatile alkanes, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and mixtures of various oils thereof.

[0139] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by mass, preferably 2.0% to 15.0% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises squalane, a mixture of alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric triglyceride, alkyl benzoate containing 12 to 15 carbon atoms, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, and triethyl citrate, all having the INCI names C3-C 22 It contains at least one oil selected from esters of tricarboxylic acid with C1-C6 alcohols, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2.0% by mass of silicone oil, particularly less than 1.0% by mass of silicone oil, preferably less than 0.5% by mass of silicone oil, and more preferably does not contain silicone oil.

[0142] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably at least one non-volatile ester oil.

[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention also includes at least one solid fatty substance, particularly a fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably stearic acid.

[0145] Additional UV shielding agent The composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional UV shielding agent other than the merocyanine of formula (I) described above.

[0146] In particular, the compositions according to the present invention may include at least one compound other than the merocyanine of formula (I) above for shielding UVA and / or UVB.

[0147] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional UV shielding agents selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV shielding agents and / or one or more mineral pigments. It preferably consists of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV shielding agent.

[0148] The term "hydrophilic UV shielding agent" means any cosmetic or skin organic or inorganic compound that shields UV radiation and can be completely dissolved in a liquid aqueous phase in molecular form or in a colloidal form (e.g., in micelle form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0149] The term "lipophilic shielding agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for shielding UV radiation that can be completely dissolved in a liquid lipid phase in a molecular state or in a colloidal state (e.g., in a micelle state) in a liquid lipid phase.

[0150] The term "insoluble UV shielding agent" refers to any cosmetic or skin organic or inorganic compound for shielding UV radiation that has a solubility of less than 0.5% by mass in water and less than 0.5% by mass in most organic solvents, such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, such as Miglyol 812 (registered trademark) sold by Dynamit Nobel. This solubility is measured at 70°C and is defined as the amount of product dissolved after suspending an excess of solid in the solvent and returning to equilibrium at room temperature. This can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

[0151] Additional organic UV shielding agents include, in particular, cinnamon compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic acid compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, particularly those cited in U.S. Patent No. 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, e.g., those described in European Patent No. 669323 and U.S. Patent No. 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, e.g., U.S. Patent No. 5,237,071, U.S. Patent No. 5,166,355, UK Patent No. 2,303,549, German Patent No. 1,972,6184 and European Patent No. Those described in Specification No. 893119; benzoxazole compounds, for example, those described in European Patent No. 0832642, European Patent No. 1027883, European Patent No. 1300137 and German Patent No. 10162844; shielding polymers and shielding silicones, for example, those described in particular in International Publication No. 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene dimers, for example, those described in German Patent No. 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, for example, those described in European Patent No. 0967200, German Patent No. 19746654, German Patent No. 19755649, European Patent Application Publication No. A-1008586, European Patent No. 1133980 and European Patent No. 133981; and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those listed below by their INCI names: Cinnamon compounds: - In particular, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold by DSM Nutritional Products under the trade name Parsol MCX (registered trademark), - Isopropyl methoxycinnamate, - Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, sold by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 (registered trademark), - DEA methoxycinnamate, - Methyl diisopropylcinnamate, - Glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: - In particular, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold by DSM Nutritional Products under the trade name Parsol 1789 (registered trademark), - Isopropyldibenzoylmethane. para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: - PABA, - Ethyl PABA, - Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, - In particular, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, which is sold by ISP under the name Escalol 507 (registered trademark), - Glyceryl PABA, - PEG-25 PABA sold by BASF under the name Uvinul P25 (registered trademark). Salicylic acid compounds: - Homosalate sold by Rona / EM Industries under the name HMS (registered trademark), - Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan OS (registered trademark), - Dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold by Scher under the name Dipsal (registered trademark), - Salicylic acid TEA sold by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan TS (registered trademark). β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds: - In particular, octocrylene, which is sold by BASF under the brand name Uvinul N539 (registered trademark), - In particular, etocrylene, which is sold by BASF under the brand name Uvinul N35 (registered trademark). Benzophenone compounds: - Benzophenone-1, sold by BASF under the brand name Uvinul 400 (registered trademark), - Benzophenone-2, sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul D 50 (registered trademark), - Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul M 40 (registered trademark), - Benzophenone-4, sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul MS 40 (registered trademark), - Benzophenone-5, - Benzophenone-6, sold by Norquay under the brand name Helisorb 11 (registered trademark), - Benzophenone-8, sold by American Cyanamid under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 (registered trademark), - Benzophenone-9, sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul DS 49 (registered trademark), - Benzophenone-12, - 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) n-hexyl benzoate, sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus (registered trademark) or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B (registered trademark), - 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), described in International Publication No. 2007 / 071584; this compound is advantageously used in a pulverized form (average diameter 0.02-2 μm), particularly in aqueous dispersion form, which can be obtained by following the pulverization methods described, for example, in British Patent Application Publication No. A-2303549 and European Patent Application Publication No. A-893119. Benzylidene camphor compounds: - 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SD (registered trademark), - 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, sold by Merck under the name Eusolex 6300 (registered trademark), - Benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SL (registered trademark), - Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SO(registered trademark), - Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SX (registered trademark), - Polyacrylamide methyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SW (registered trademark). Phenylbenzimidazole compounds: - In particular, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, which is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex 232 (registered trademark). Bisbenzazolyl compounds: - Disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, sold by Haarmann and Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP (registered trademark). Phenylenbenzotriazole compounds: - Drometrizole trisiloxane, sold by Rhodia Chimie under the name Silatrizole (registered trademark). Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds: - In particular, in solid form (for example, a product sold by Fairmount Chemical under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100®) or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of fine particles with an average particle size of 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferably 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly 0.020 to 2 μm, C n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) xStructure of H (wherein n is an integer between 8 and 16, and x is (C6H) 10 A form comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside surfactant having an average degree of polymerization of 05 units, in the range of 1.4 to 1.6 (described in UK Patent Application Publication A-2303549, and particularly sold by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb M®) or at least one polyglyceryl mono(C8 to C) having a glycerol degree of polymerization of at least 5 20 ) in the form of an aqueous dispersion of fine particles having an average particle size of 0.02–2 μm, more preferably 0.01–1.5 μm, and especially 0.02–1 μm, in the presence of an alkyl ester, for example, in the form of an aqueous dispersion described in International Publication No. 2009 / 063392, methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol. Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine) has the INCI name phenylenebis-diphenyltriazine and the following chemical formula: [Chemical formula 9] [ka] - Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, sold by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb S (registered trademark), - In particular, ethylhexyl triazone sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul T 150 (registered trademark), - Diethylhexylbutamide triazone, sold by Sigma 3V under the brand name Uvasorb HEB (registered trademark), - 2,4,6-Tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - Symmetrical triazine shielding agents substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups, particularly 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine (see International Publication No. 06 / 035000, International Publication No. 06 / 034982, International Publication No. 06 / 034991) as described in U.S. Patent No. 6,225467, International Publication No. 2004 / 085412 (see Compounds 6 and 9) or in the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives”, IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC, West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004). These compounds are also described in International Publication No. 06 / 035007, International Publication No. 2006 / 034992 and International Publication No. 2006 / 034985, and are advantageously used in a pulverized form (average particle size 0.02-3 μm) that can be obtained, for example, by the pulverization methods described in British Patent Application Publication No. A-2303549 and European Patent Application Publication No. A-893119, and are particularly used in aqueous dispersion form. - Silicone triazines substituted with two aminobenzoate groups, particularly 2,4-bis(n-butyl4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, as described in European Patent No. 0841341. Anthranilic acid compounds: - Menthyl anthranilate, sold by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA (registered trademark). Imidazolin compounds: - Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Benzalmalonate compounds: - For example, polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15 sold by Hoffmann-LaRoche under the trade name Parsol SLX®. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: - 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene. Benzoxazole compounds: - 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazole-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, sold by Sigma 3V under the name Uvasorb K2A(registered trademark).

[0153] The preferred organic shielding agent is selected from the following: - Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, - Ethylhexyl salicylate, - Homosalate, - Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Octocrylene, - Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, - Benzophenone-3, - Benzophenone-4, - Benzophenone-5, - n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, - 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, - Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, - Phenyldibenzoimidazole tetrasulfonate disodium, - Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, - Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, - Ethylhexyltriazone, - Diethylhexylbutamide triazone, - 2,4,6-Tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine, - 2,4,6-Tris(terphenyl)triazine, - Drometrizole trisiloxane, - Polysilicone-15, - 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, - 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazole-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, and - These mixtures.

[0154] Particularly preferred organic shielding agents are selected from the following: - Ethylhexyl salicylate, - Homosalate, - Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Octocrylene, - n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, - Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, - Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, - Ethylhexyltriazone, - Diethylhexylbutamide triazone, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, - Drometrizole trisiloxane, and - These mixtures.

[0155] The inorganic UV shielding agent used in accordance with the present invention is a metal oxide pigment. More preferably, the inorganic UV shielding agent of the present invention is a metal oxide particle having an average primary particle size of 0.5 μm or less, more preferably 0.005 to 0.5 μm, even more preferably 0.01 to 0.2 μm, even better 0.01 to 0.1 μm, and most particularly 0.015 to 0.05 μm.

[0156] These can be selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.

[0157] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in European Patent Application Publication A-0518773. Commercially available pigments include those sold by Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck, and Degussa.

[0158] The metal oxide pigment may or may not be coated.

[0159] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments affecting their chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, and / or mechanical properties using compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts of fatty acids, (titanium or aluminum) metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicone, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon dioxide, metal oxides, or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0160] The coated pigment is, more specifically, titanium dioxide coated with the following: - Silica, for example, Ikeda's product Sunveil (registered trademark), - Silica and iron oxide, for example, Ikeda's product Sunveil F (registered trademark), - Silica and alumina, for example, Tayca's products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA (registered trademark) and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA (registered trademark), and Tioxide's product Tioveil. - Alumina, for example, Ishihara's products Tipaque TTO-55(B) (registered trademark) and Tipaque TTO-55(A) (registered trademark), and Sachtleben Pigments' UVT 14 / 4, - Alumina and aluminum stearate, for example, Tayca's Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T (registered trademark), MT 100 TX (registered trademark), MT 100 Z (registered trademark), and MT-01 (registered trademark), Uniqema's Solaveil CT-10 W (registered trademark) and Solaveil CT 100 (registered trademark), and Merck's Eusolex T-AVO (registered trademark), - Silica, alumina, and alginate, for example, Tayca's product MT-100 AQ (registered trademark); - Alumina and aluminum laurate, for example, Tayca's product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S (registered trademark); - Iron oxide and iron stearate, for example, Tayca's product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F (registered trademark), - Zinc oxide and zinc stearate, for example, Tayca's product BR 351 (registered trademark), - Silica and alumina (treated with silicone), for example, Tayca's products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS®, or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS®. - Silica, alumina, and aluminum stearate (treated with silicone), e.g., Titan Kogyo's product STT-30-DS®, - Silica (treated with silicone), for example, UV-Titan X 195 (registered trademark) from Sachtleben Pigments. - Alumina (treated with silicone), for example, Ishihara's Tipaque TTO-55(S) (registered trademark) or Sachtleben Pigments' UV Titan M 262 (registered trademark), - Triethanolamine, for example, Titan Kogyo's product STT-65-S, Stearic acid, for example, Ishihara's product Tipaque TTO-55(C) (registered trademark), - Sodium hexametaphosphate, for example, Tayca's product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W (registered trademark), - TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold by Degussa Silices under the trade name T 805 (registered trademark). - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, sold by Cardre under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3 (registered trademark). - Polydimethylhydrosiloxane-treated anatase / rutile TiO2, sold by Color Techniques under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic (registered trademark). - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, and alumina, sold by Croda under the brand name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD). - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina, and silicone, sold by Croda under the product name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD). - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxyde CR 50. - Sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2CR-50, C9-C 15 TiO2 coated with fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0161] Examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal, such as iron, zinc, or manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, the doped pigment is in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, such as capric / caprylic triglycerides. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also contain one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan isostearate, or fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylened glycerol, such as triPPG-3 myristyl citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles contains at least one dispersant selected from fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylened glycerol. More specifically, one can cite an oily dispersion (for example, a product sold by Croda under the trade name Optisol TD50®) obtained by dispersing manganese-doped TiO2 particles, having the INCI names titanium dioxide (and) tri-PPG-3 myristyl citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate (and) in caprylic / capric triglyceride in the presence of tri-TRI-PPG-3 myristyl citrate, polyglyceryl-3 polycinoleate, and sorbitan isostearate.

[0162] Uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are sold, for example, by Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B (registered trademark), by Degussa under the name P 25, by Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW (registered trademark), by Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR (registered trademark), by Tomen under the name ITS (registered trademark), and by Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.

[0163] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - Sold by Sunsmart under the name Z-Cote; - Products sold by Elementis under the name Nanox (registered trademark), - Sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 (registered trademark).

[0164] Examples of coated zinc oxide pigments include: - The product sold by Toshibi under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5 (registered trademark) (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); - Sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN (registered trademark) (Finsolv TN (registered trademark) (C 12 ~C 15 (As a 40% dispersion in alkylbenzoate), - Products sold by Daito Corporation under the names Daitopersion Zn-30 (registered trademark) and Daitopersion Zn-50 (registered trademark) (dispersions in oxyethylene-modified polydimethylsiloxane / silopolymethylsiloxane containing 30% or 50% zinc oxide coated with silica and polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); - Sold by Daikin under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO (registered trademark) (a cyclopentasiloxane dispersion of ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer); - Sold by Shin-Etsu under the name SPD-Z1 (registered trademark) (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane), - Sold by ISP under the name Escalol Z100 (registered trademark) (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone), - Products sold by Fuji Pigment under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 (registered trademark) (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); - Products sold by Elementis under the name Nanox Gel TN (registered trademark) (containing polycondensate hydroxystearate) 12 ~C 15 ZnO dispersed at 55% in alkylbenzoate.

[0165] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may include, for example, those sold by Rhone-Poulenc under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide®.

[0166] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002(registered trademark)(FE 45B(registered trademark)), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ(registered trademark) and Nanogard WCD 2006(registered trademark)(FE 45R(registered trademark)), or by Mitsubishi under the name TY-220(registered trademark).

[0167] Coated iron oxide pigments are sold by Arnaud, for example, under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN®), Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345®, and Nanogard FE 45 BL®, or by BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide®.

[0168] Examples include metal oxides, particularly mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, such as an equal mass mixture of silica-coated titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide sold by Ikeda under the name Sunveil A®, and mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica, and silicone, such as product M 261® sold by Sachtleben Pigments, or product M 211® sold by Sachtleben Pigments.

[0169] According to the present invention, coated or uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0170] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises one or more lipophilic UV shielding agents.

[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV shielding agents selected from lipophilic UVA shielding agents and / or lipophilic UVB shielding agents.

[0172] More preferably, the composition comprises one or more UV shielding agents selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, β,β'-diphenyl acrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives, and benzylidene camphor derivatives.

[0173] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV shielding agents selected from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] According to one embodiment, the amount of organic UV shielding agent present in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.5% to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. This is, for example, in the range of 1% to 10% by mass or 5% to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0175] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one inorganic UV shielding agent.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the amount of inorganic UV shielding agent present in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. This is in the range of 1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0177] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention also includes one or more organic UV shielding agents and one or more inorganic UV shielding agents.

[0178] According to one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention also include combinations of UV shielding agents described in French Patent No. 2977490, International Publication No. 2013 / 004777, or U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2014 / 0134120.

[0179] surfactant According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may also include at least one surfactant.

[0180] Surfactants can be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof. For definitions of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, refer to the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, and in particular, for anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants, refer to pages 347-377 of this reference.

[0181] Nonionic surfactants Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0182] Nonionic surfactants can be selected from, in particular, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylene alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylene-modified alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylene-modified alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or alkyl and polyalkyl polyglycosides, especially alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or alkyl and polyalkyl polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, glyceryl esters, optionally polyoxyethylene-modified alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylene-modified alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini-type surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0183] As glyceryl esters, in particular, glycerol C 16 ~C 22 Examples include fatty acid esters, particularly glyceryl esters of fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids containing 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0184] In particular, the C 18 Examples of fatty acid glyceryl esters include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.

[0185] Examples of fatty acid esters of glycerol include mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as mixtures of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, especially those containing a 50 / 50 mixture sold under the name Arlacel 165 (registered trademark) by Croda or products containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate sold under the name Tegin (registered trademark) by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0186] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, particularly a non-ionic surfactant, preferably a surfactant selected from glyceryl esters.

[0187] Anionic surfactant Anionic surfactants include alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, C 10 ~C 30 In particular, C 16 ~C 25 Metal salts of fatty acids, particularly metals of stearic acid and behenic acid, alkali metal salts of cetyl phosphate and mixtures thereof can be selected.

[0188] Examples of alkali metal salts of cetyl phosphate include particularly potassium cetyl phosphate. In particular, the monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name Amphisol K by DSM Nutritional Products can be used.

[0189] Cationic surfactant Cationic surfactants include alkyl imidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethyl imidonium ethosulfate, (C 12~30 -alkyl) tri (C 1~4You can choose from ammonium salts such as -alkyl)ammonium halides, for example, N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosaenaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).

[0190] Amphoteric surfactants The compositions according to the present invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, such as N-acyl amino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone phosphate copolyols, such as the product sold by Phoenix Chemical under the name Pecosil PS 100 (registered trademark).

[0191] Silicone surfactants This composition may also include at least one silicone surfactant. Examples include dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate as nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 8 or higher at 25°C, used alone or in a mixture, and cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture as a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or in a mixture.

[0192] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by mass of a silicone surfactant, particularly less than 1% by mass of a silicone surfactant, and more preferably less than 0.5% by mass of a silicone surfactant, and more preferably does not contain a silicone surfactant.

[0193] In the composition according to the present invention, surfactants may be present in a ratio of 0.5% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0194] Gelling agent / thickening agent Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more thickening agents and / or gelling agents, particularly hydrophilic, i.e., water-soluble or water-dispersible, can be incorporated into the composition.

[0195] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold by Goodrich under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10~30)) crosspolymer); polyacrylamide; optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as poly(2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) (CTFA name: polyacryldimethyltaurate ammonium) sold by Hoechst under the name Hostacerin AMPS; anionic copolymers of crosslinked acrylamide and AMPS in the form of W / O emulsions, such as Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / (C13~14) isoparaffin / laureth-7) and Simulgel from SEPPIC. Products sold under the name 600 (CTFA name: (acrylamide / acryloyldimethyltaurate sodium) copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) include polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, arginate, and modified cellulose, as well as mixtures thereof. The amount of gelling agent depends on the desired purpose.

[0196] According to one embodiment, the amount of filler is in the range of, for example, 0.01% to 10% by mass, or for example, 0.05% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0197] Filler According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may be selected from one or more fillers, particularly those conventionally used in care and / or makeup compositions.

[0198] For the purposes of this invention, the term “filler” is understood to mean any form of natural or synthetic solid particles that are colorless or white inorganic or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition and dispersed therein.

[0199] Needless to say, these fillers are used in appropriate amounts and under appropriate conditions so as not to be detrimental to the properties of the composition.

[0200] These fillers enable compositions containing them to have flexibility, a matte finish, and uniformity. In addition, these fillers advantageously enable resistance to various aggressive elements such as sebum or sweat.

[0201] Examples of such fillers include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres (such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, e.g., ExpanseL® (Nobel Industrie)), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (e.g., Tospar® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane powder, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Particles in the form of hollow spherical portions, as described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2003-128788 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 2000-191789, may also be used.

[0202] dye The composition according to the present invention also preferably contains at least one particulate or nonparticulate water-soluble or water-insoluble dye in a proportion of at least 0.0001% by mass of the total mass of the composition.

[0203] For obvious reasons, this amount is prone to significant variation depending on the desired intensity of the color effect and the color intensity provided by the dye under consideration, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of those skilled in the art.

[0204] As described above, the dyes suitable for use in the present invention can be water-soluble or can also be lipid-soluble.

[0205] Water-soluble dyes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0206] Suitable water-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, inter alia, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanins, black carrot, hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.

[0207] Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one water-soluble dye.

[0209] Water-soluble dyes can be present in a proportion of from 0.0001% to 2% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition containing them.

[0210] Lipid-soluble dyes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipid-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an oily phase or a solvent miscible with fatty substances and is capable of imparting color.

[0211] Suitable lipid-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural lipid-soluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotene (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophyll (capsanthine, capsorbin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, and curcumin.

[0212] These colored particle materials may be present in a proportion of 0.0001% to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition containing them.

[0213] These may be metallic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and / or particles, in particular.

[0214] pigment The term "pigment" should be understood to mean white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and are intended to color and / or opaque compositions containing them.

[0215] The pigment may be a white or colored inorganic and / or organic substance.

[0216] Examples of inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide, or cerium dioxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] It could be a pigment with a structure such as sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such pigments are sold, for example, by Chemicals and Catalysts under the reference names Coverleaf NS or JS, and have a contrast ratio of approximately 30.

[0218] These can also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of the type of silica microsphere containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is a product sold by Miyoshi under the reference name PC Ball PC-LL-100P, which is composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0219] Advantageously, the pigment may be iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0220] According to certain embodiments, the pigment content of the composition according to the present invention is less than 1%.

[0221] mother of pearl The term "mother-of-pearl" should be understood to mean any form of colored particles, which may or may not be lustrous, produced or synthesized in particular within the exoskeletons of certain mollusks, and which exhibit color effects due to light interference.

[0222] Mother-of-pearl can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles in which at least two continuous layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed on their surface.

[0223] Further examples of mother-of-pearl include natural mica coated with titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride.

[0224] Among the mother-of-pearl available on the market, notable examples include Timica, Flamenco, and Duochrome mother-of-pearl (mica-based) sold by Engelhard, Timiron mother-of-pearl sold by Merck, Prestige mica-based mother-of-pearl sold by Eckart, and Sunshine synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearl sold by Sun Chemical.

[0225] Mother-of-pearl may have colors or hues of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper, more particularly.

[0226] Advantageously, the mother-of-pearl according to the present invention is mica coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide, and further with bismuth oxychloride.

[0227] According to certain embodiments, the amount of mother-of-pearl in the composition according to the present invention is less than 1%.

[0228] Particles with a metallic hue For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particles having a metallic hue" means any compound that reflects incident light in a manner that does not particularly give it a glossy finish, due to its properties, size, structure, and surface finish.

[0229] Exemplary particles having a metallic hue that can be used in the present invention are selected in particular from particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising a single or multiple material organic or inorganic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer having a metallic hue that includes at least one metal and / or at least one metal oxide, and mixtures of such particles.

[0230] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, and Se, as well as mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

[0231] The term "metal derivative" refers to compounds derived from metals, particularly oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.

[0232] Examples of these particles include aluminum particles, such as those sold by Siberline under the name Starbrite 1200 EAC® and by Eckart under the name Metalure®, and glass particles coated with a metal layer, particularly those described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 09-188830, Japanese Patent Publication No. 10-158450, Japanese Patent Publication No. 10-158541, Japanese Patent Publication No. 07-258460 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 05-017710.

[0233] According to certain embodiments, the amount of metallic-colored particles in the composition according to the present invention is less than 1%.

[0234] Hydrophobic treatment of dyes The powdered dyes described above may be surface-treated whole or partially with a hydrophobic agent to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the present invention, particularly to have good oil-based wetting properties. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase. Hydrophobized pigments are described in particular in European Patent Application Publication A-1086683.

[0235] Hydrophobic treatment agents may be selected from silicones, such as methicone, dimethicone, and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyltriisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] The term "alkyl" in the aforementioned compounds specifically refers to alkyl groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0237] additives The compositions according to the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic auxiliaries, particularly selected from surfactants, emollients, wetting agents, emulsions, skin softeners, silicones, defoamers, fragrances, polar additives, preservatives, especially phenoxyethanol, polymers, such as film-forming polymers, propellants, dispersants, anti-fouling agents, chelating agents, basicizing agents or acidifying agents, or any other ingredients commonly used in the fields of cosmetics and / or dermatology.

[0238] Examples of acidifying agents include inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acid.

[0239] Examples of basicizing agents include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide.

[0240] Preferably, the cosmetic composition contains one or more basicizing agents selected from alkanolamines, particularly triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.

[0241] In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition according to the present invention is generally about 3 to 12, preferably about 5 to 11, and more particularly 5.5 to 8.

[0242] Examples of active ingredients for caring for keratinous substances such as skin, lips, scalp, hair, eyelashes, or nails include: vitamins and their derivatives or precursors (alone or in mixtures); antioxidants; free radical scavengers; anti-fouling agents; self-tanning agents; anti-glycation agents; sedatives, deodorants; essential oils; NO synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis of macromolecules in the dermis or epidermis and / or preventing their breakdown; agents for stimulating fibroblast proliferation; agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation; muscle relaxants; cooling agents; tensioning agents; matting agents; bleaching agents; keratolytic agents; desquamating agents; moisturizers; anti-inflammatory agents; antimicrobial agents, weight-reducing agents; agents acting on cellular energy metabolism; insecticides; substance P antagonists or CRGP antagonists; hair loss inhibitors; anti-wrinkle agents; and anti-aging agents.

[0243] A person skilled in the art would select the activator as desired for use on skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and nails.

[0244] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care in selecting these or any optional additional compounds and / or their amounts such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the present invention are not adversely affected or substantially affected by the assumed additions.

[0245] composition The composition according to the present invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.

[0246] If the composition is aqueous, it contains at least one aqueous phase.

[0247] Next, they may be in a purely aqueous form. That is, the amount of the fatty layer they contain is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, and more preferably less than 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. Advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention are basically aqueous; that is, they do not contain a fatty phase.

[0248] The compositions according to the present invention may be in the form of single-phase or complex emulsions (O / W type, W / O type, O / W / O type, or W / O / W type), such as creams, lotions, or gel creams.

[0249] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion; a gel, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion gel; an aqueous composition; or a gel / gel type composition.

[0250] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is an emulsion.

[0251] According to one modified embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a single-phase emulsion.

[0252] According to one modified embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a multiphase emulsion. It may be a three-phase emulsion.

[0253] According to one modified embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a direct single-phase emulsion. Therefore, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0254] According to one modified embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is an inverse single-phase emulsion. Therefore, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0255] According to one modified form, the composition according to the present invention is an aqueous gel or aqueous solution type aqueous formulation.

[0256] Preferably, the composition is an emulsion, particularly a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.

[0257] For compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, possible emulsification methods include those of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator, and HPH types.

[0258] To obtain a stable emulsion with a low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio > 25), a dispersion can be prepared in the concentrated phase, and then the dispersion can be diluted with the remaining aqueous phase.

[0259] By using high heat per meter (HPH) (50-800 bar), it is possible to obtain a stable dispersion with a droplet size of approximately 100 nm.

[0260] The compositions according to the present invention may be liquid to varying degrees and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, emulsion, lotion, serum, paste, or foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. They may also be in solid form, for example, in the form of a stick.

[0261] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or makeup on keratinous substances, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or makeup on keratinous substances of the body or face, preferably on the face.

[0262] The compositions according to the present invention are applicable to a number of treatments, particularly cosmetic treatments, for the skin, lips and hair (including the scalp), especially for protecting and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for making up the skin and / or lips.

[0263] Another subject of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the present invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular care products, sunscreen products and makeup products.

[0264] The compositions according to the present invention may be in the form of products for caring for skin or semi-mucous membranes, for example, protective or cosmetic care compositions for the face, lips, hands, feet, anatomical folds, or body (e.g., day creams, night creams, day serums, night serums, makeup remover creams, makeup bases, sunscreen compositions, protective or care body milks, after-sun milks, skincare or scalp care lotions, gels or foams, serums, masks, or aftershave compositions).

[0265] The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention can be used, for example, as facial and / or body care products and / or sunscreen products having a liquid to semi-liquid viscosity, such as lotions, various rich creams, gels, and cream-gels. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and may be in mousse or spray form.

[0266] The compositions of the present invention, in the form of an evaporable fluid lotion, are applied to the skin or hair in the form of fine particles by a pressurizing device. Devices of the present invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers," aerosol containers containing a propellant, and aerosol pumps that utilize compressed air as a propellant. These devices are described in U.S. Patent No. 4,077,441 and U.S. Patent No. 4,850,517.

[0267] The compositions packaged in aerosol form according to the present invention generally contain conventional propellants, such as hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, or trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in an amount ranging from 15% to 50% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0268] This composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0269] In another embodiment, the present invention is i) A container defining one or more compartments, which is closed with a closing member and can be optionally opened; ii) A makeup and / or care composition according to the present invention placed inside the compartment This also relates to cosmetic assemblies, including those containing cosmetic components.

[0270] The container may be in the form of a jar or a box, for example.

[0271] The closing member may be in the form of a lid, including a cap that is mounted to be movable by parallel movement or by pivoting relative to the container containing the makeup and / or care composition.

[0272] Such compositions are prepared in accordance with the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0273] Such compositions described above can be used, in particular, for cosmetic purposes according to the present invention.

[0274] Therefore, the present invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the present invention for caring for and / or makeup of keratin substances, preferably keratin substances, in particular for caring for the skin of the body and / or face.

[0275] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for applying makeup and / or care to a keratinous substance, particularly the skin, and further to a method comprising at least one step of applying the previously defined composition to the keratinous substance.

[0276] Preferably, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratinous substances of the body and / or face, the method comprising at least one step of applying the composition defined above to the keratinous substance.

[0277] Keratinic substances, especially cosmetic methods used to apply makeup and / or care for the skin, are non-therapeutic.

[0278] In particular, the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the above composition for protecting keratinous substances, especially the skin and / or lips and / or hair, from sunlight.

[0279] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the compositions defined above, particularly for keratinic substances, to address or prevent signs of photo-induced premature aging of the skin, and / or lips, and / or hair.

[0280] Furthermore, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the compositions defined above, particularly for preventing signs of chemical ray-derived skin aging, such as premature aging of keratinic substances in the skin, especially the skin of the face, neck, arms, hands and / or shoulders, particularly photoaging.

[0281] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the compositions defined above for preventing loss of skin firmness, and / or elasticity, and / or suppleness, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, dull complexion, and / or a withered appearance of the skin.

[0282] The present invention also relates in particular to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for protecting keratinous material of skin and / or lips and / or hair from solar radiation, the non-therapeutic cosmetic method comprising applying at least one composition according to the present invention to the surface of keratinous material.

[0283] The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating signs of aging of keratinous material, such as photoaging, and also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method comprising applying at least one composition according to the present invention to the surface of a keratinous material.

[0284] For the purposes of this invention, the term "prevent" means at least partially reducing the risk of a given phenomenon becoming apparent.

[0285] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "includes" should be understood to be synonymous with "includes at least one" unless otherwise specified.

[0286] Unless otherwise specified, the expressions "...~...", "...~...", "...~...", and "...~..." should be understood to include the boundary value.

[0287] In the descriptions and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are mass percentages. Therefore, percentages are expressed as mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Temperatures are expressed in Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and pressures are atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

[0288] The present invention will be described in more detail by the following non-limiting embodiments. [Examples]

[0289] Example A: Preparation of merocyanine according to the present invention Example A1: Preparation of compound (A) [Chemical formula 10] [ka] 122.23 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one was alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate and treated with approximately equimolar 75.45 grams of ethyl cyanoethyl in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0290] The following base / solvent combinations were used.

[0291] [Table 2]

[0292] The completion of the alkylation reaction could be monitored by methods such as TLC, GC, or HPLC. 162.30 g of compound (14) was obtained in the form of a brown oily substance. After crystallization, the product was obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 92.7°C.

[0293] Example A2: Preparation of compound (B) [Chemical formula 11] [ka] 101.00 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one was alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate and treated with approximately equimolar 86.00 g of 2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)acetamide in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0294] The following base / solvent combinations were used.

[0295] [Table 3]

[0296] Crude product (B) was obtained in the form of a dark brown oily substance. After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: 99 / 1 toluene / methanol), 81.8 grams of the product were obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 84.7~85.3°C.

[0297] Example A3: Preparation of compound (D) [Chemical formula 12] [ka] 13.09 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one was alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate and treated with 10.12 g of isobutyl cyanoacetate in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0298] The following base / solvent combinations were used.

[0299] [Table 4]

[0300] 15.97 grams of crude product (27) was obtained in the form of a dark brown oily substance. After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: toluene / acetone), 13.46 g of the product was obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 96.3℃.

[0301] Example A4: Preparation of compound (C) [Chemical formula 13] [ka] 148.4 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate and treated with 130.00 g of 2-ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and a solvent.

[0302] The following base / solvent combinations were used.

[0303] [Table 5]

[0304] Example: Composition 1 according to the present invention: Anhydrous Ceram The following compositions were prepared according to the following method: 1) Mix and heat the glycol-based phase A to 85-90°C while magnetically stirring. 2) Add B (vitamin C) while magnetically stirring and dissolve completely. 3) Stop heating, and while magnetically stirring, add C (methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate shielding agent according to Example A) and dissolve completely.

[0305] The numerical value is expressed as a mass percentage of the total mass of the composition.

[0306] [Table 6]

[0307] Example: Composition 2 according to the present invention: Aqueous serum The following compositions were prepared according to the following method: Preparation of Phase A: 1) Mix the components of A1 while magnetically stirring (slowly add sodium hydroxide). 2) Add PQ-67(A2) using a deflocculator to obtain a transparent viscous gel.

[0308] Preparation of phase B: 1) Mix all the components of B1 at a high temperature (50-60°C) while magnetically stirring. 2) Add niacinamide (B2) while magnetically stirring and dissolve completely. 3) Add caffeine (B3) while magnetically stirring and dissolve completely. Adjust the water content (QS).

[0309] Preparation of Phase C: A mixture of methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate shielding agent and dipropylene glycol is prepared while magnetically stirring, and heated to accelerate the dissolution of the methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate shielding agent (60-70°C).

[0310] The mixture is allowed to return to room temperature, then phase B is added to phase A using a deflocculator that adds alcohol (D), and finally phase C is added to the final gel.

[0311] The numerical value is expressed as a mass percentage of the total mass of the composition.

[0312] [Table 7]

[0313] Example: Composition 3 according to the present invention: Emulsion The following compositions were prepared according to the following method: Phase A: Mix the components in a beaker at 40°C while magnetically stirring. Phase B: Mix the components in a beaker at 55°C while magnetically stirring.

[0314] Add B to A using a rotor-stator emulsifier (3000 rpm) + scraper blade (90 rpm) (10 minutes).

[0315] Add C to A+B using a rotor-stator emulsifier (3000 rpm) + scraper blade (90 rpm) (10 minutes, room temperature).

[0316] Next, rapidly add D, then add E: emulsifier (1500 rpm) + scraper blade (50 rpm) (10 minutes, room temperature).

[0317] Finally, add F: emulsifier (1500 rpm) + scraper blade (50 rpm) (10 minutes, room temperature).

[0318] The numerical value is expressed as a mass percentage of the total mass of the composition.

[0319] [Table 8]

[0320] [Table 9]

[0321] Example: Evaluation of procollagen I production The effectiveness of the combinations according to the present invention, as well as the effectiveness of combinations outside the scope of the present invention, is tested by analyzing procollagen 1 in the culture medium of normal human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA.

[0322] Other materials and protocols used are listed below.

[0323] Experimental protocol cell culture - Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) obtained from mammography. - Culture: 37℃, 5% CO2. - Culture medium and test medium: MEM (Gibco 21090-022) containing 10% fetal bovine serum (FCS) (Gibco 10270-098), 2 mM L-glutamine (Gibco 25030-024), 1 mM sodium pyruvate (Gibco 11360-039), 1X non-essential amino acids (Gibco 11140-035), 250 ng / ml amphotericin B (Gibco 15290-018), and penicillin / streptomycin 20U / 20 μg / ml.

[0324] Normal human dermal fibroblasts were seeded in complete MEM medium and incubated at 37°C and 5% CO2 for 72 hours.

[0325] Prescription commenting The following prescription (1.3 mg / cm³) 2 The compound was spread uniformly on a PMMA plate: Various similar formulations were prepared, the difference being whether or not the test compound was included, in particular by incorporating the control or methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate according to the present invention (as in Example A) at 1% by mass, 2% by mass, or 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0326] Such a formulation containing 2% by mass of methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate (as in Example A) is described below.

[0327] Compositions containing UV shielding agents outside the scope of the present invention will also be prepared and tested.

[0328] A formulation containing 2% by mass of methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate. How to prepare the following prescription 1. Heat phases A and B to 70-80°C while magnetically stirring. 2. Use the rotor-stator (1500 rpm) to introduce B to A for 10-15 minutes. 3. Introduce phase C using the rotor-stator (1500 rpm). 4. Cool the emulsion to approximately 35-40°C (ice bath). 5. Next, phase D is introduced using the deflocculator paddle. 6. Add phases E and F using the deflocculator paddle.

[0329] The numerical value is expressed as a mass percentage of the total mass of the composition.

[0330] [Table 10]

[0331] [Table 11]

[0332] [Table 12]

[0333] A formulation comprising a UV shielding agent system outside the scope of the present invention, particularly in an amount of 11.8% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Preparation method Phase A: Using a very tall beaker, introduce aqueous phase A1 (boiling water). Add sunspheres (A2) using a rotor-stator at 3000 rpm for 20 minutes. Adjust the water qs and maintain the temperature at 70°C. Phase B: Mix the components of Phase B while magnetically stirring and heating (70-80°C). Use a rotor-stator (1500 rpm) to introduce B to A for 10-15 minutes. Cooling is performed by introducing phase D (chilled water) using a rotor-stator. Phase C (gelling agent) is added using a deflocculator paddle. Phases E to H are continuously added using a deflocculator paddle at a temperature below 30°C.

[0334] The numerical value is expressed as a mass percentage of the total mass of the composition.

[0335] [Table 13]

[0336] [Table 14]

[0337] [Table 15]

[0338] Continued experimental protocol Next, the cells were subjected to a 25 J / cm² test using an Oriel solar simulator equipped with a WG335 filter. 2 The cells are exposed to a total UVA dose for three consecutive days. Depending on the conditions, a PMMA plate containing a shielding agent according to the present invention or a shielding agent outside the scope of the present invention, or a placebo formulation, is placed above the cells during exposure. After each exposure, the cells in the culture medium are treated with or left untreated diluted ascorbic acid (10 μM). The cells are then incubated at 37°C in 5% CO2. Forty-eight hours after the last exposure, a cell viability test (XTT Roche catalog 11465015001) is performed, and the number of cells in each well is evaluated using a Cyquant assay (Molecular Probes C7026). The culture medium is collected, and a procollagen I assay is performed by ELISA (Abcam ab210966).

[0339] Each experimental condition will be carried out in pairs or in groups of three, and at least three independent experiments will be conducted.

[0340] The results are shown in the table below.

[0341] [Table 16]

[0342] [Table 17]

[0343] [Table 18]

[0344] Under these experimental conditions, the amount of procollagen 1 synthesized and secreted by fibroblasts 48 hours after the last exposure can be accurately detected.

[0345] Ascorbic acid, tested at a concentration of 10 μM, significantly increased the secretion of procollagen 1 by fibroblasts.

[0346] UVA significantly reduced the ability of ascorbic acid to induce procollagen 1 secretion.

[0347] Surprisingly, the combination according to the present invention of ascorbic acid and a methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate shielding agent, particularly a shielding agent with a content of 2% or 3% by mass, increased the secretion of procollagen 1 in the same manner as combinations outside the scope of the present invention, which contain ascorbic acid and a UV shielding agent system in a total content of 11.8% by mass, but without requiring the presence of a high content of UV shielding agent.

Claims

1. A cosmetic and / or skin composition, - The following equation (I): 【Chemistry 1】 (In the formula, - A is -O- or -NH; - R is C １ ~ C ２２ alkyl group, C ２ ~ C ２２ alkenyl group, C ２ ~ C ２２ alkynyl group, C ３ ~ C ２２ cycloalkyl group or C ３ ~ C ２２ cycloalkenyl group, and the group is optionally interrupted by one or more O) at least one merocyanine and its E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer form; - At least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives A cosmetic and / or skin composition comprising, wherein the derivative is selected from salts, esters, ethers, and sugars.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one compound selected from the following compounds and their E / E- or E / Z- geometric isomer forms, as a merocyanine of formula (I). Table 1 Table 2

3. The merocyanine of formula (I) is compound 2-ethoxyethyl(2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohexa-2-ene-1-ylidene}ethanoate(C), which has the following structure: 【Chemistry 2】 Its E / Z geometric arrangement, and / or the following structure: 【Transformation 3】 The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound is 2-ethoxyethyl(2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohexa-2-ene-1-ylidene}ethanoate(C) in its E / E geometric configuration having the above.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of merocyanine of formula (I) is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ascorbic acid and / or derivative thereof is selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbyl-2 glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 1, comprising ascorbic acid.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives is in the range of 0.01% to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one hydrotrope selected from nicotinamide, caffeine, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 8, comprising nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylate, sodium pyroglutamic acid (PCA sodium), sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium benzenesulfonate, sodium p-toluenesulfonate (NaPTS), sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate (NaBMGS), HCl 4-aminobenzoate, sodium cumenesulfonate, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide, procaine HCl, proline HCl, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate (SXS), ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide, isoniazid, and at least one hydrotrope selected from mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one hydrotrope selected from nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylates, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the hydrotrope content is in the range of 0.1% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one alcohol.

13. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one alkylene carbonate.

14. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one polyol.

15. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one fatty phase.

16. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additional UV shielding agent different from the merocyanine of formula (I).

17. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin substances.

18. A cosmetic method for caring for a keratin substance, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 to the keratin substance.

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