W / o type composition comprising two or more waxes

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, comprising: (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil, (a-2) at least two waxes, and (a-3) at least one poly glyceryl fatty acid ester; and (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising (b-1) water, wherein the amount of the (b-1) water in the composition is more than 25% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a solid and self-standing stick, while being soft and providing a sufficient deposit and a comfortable feeling such as melting feeling and soft touch.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION

[0003] W / O TYPE COMPOSITION COMPRISING TWO OR MORE WAXES TECHNICAL FIELD

[0004] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as skin and lips, comprising at least two different waxes.

[0005] BACKGROUND ART

[0006] Cosmetic products may comprise a structured, i.e., gelled and / or rigidified, fatty phase, such as that in self-standing solid compositions, for example, deodorants, lip balms, lipsticks, concealers, and eyeshadows. This structuring may be obtained with the aid of waxes in the fatty phase.

[0007] Such conventional self-standing solid compositions typically in the form of a stick include a relatively high concentration of waxes and an extremely low concentration of water, in order to keep a robust self-standing stick shape with good stability. Thus, the conventional selfstanding solid compositions tend to be hard, provide heavy texture upon application, and have difficulty in providing a sufficient deposit on a keratin material such as skin and lips.

[0008] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0009] An objective of the present invention is to provide a self-standing solid composition comprising a relatively large amount of water, which can be soft and provide a sufficient deposit and a comfortable feeling such as melting feeling during application and soft touch after application.

[0010] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, comprising:

[0011] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0012] (a- 1) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

[0013] (a-2) at least two waxes, and

[0014] (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;

[0015] and

[0016] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0017] (b-1) water,

[0018] wherein

[0019] the amount of the (b-1) water in the composition is more than 25% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The (a-1) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from alkanes, preferably linear alkanes.

[0021] The amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (a-2) at least two waxes may have a melting point of 65°C or more.

[0022] The (a-2) at least two waxes may have a different melting point.

[0023] At least one of the (a-2) at least two waxes may have a melting point of 72°C or more, and another of the (a-2) at least two waxes may have a melting point of less than 72°C.

[0024] The amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less and more preferably 6 or less.

[0025] The (a-3) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from:

[0026] (1) esters of (i) at least one poly glycerol, and of (ii) at least one non-polymeric fatty acid;

[0027] (2) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids;

[0028] (3) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (v) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid;

[0029] (4) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (vi) at least one fatty diacid dimer; and

[0030] (5) mixtures thereof.

[0031] The amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (b-2) at least one polyol.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one powder.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention may comprise no silicone or less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2%, and more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a skincare or makeup composition, and more preferably a skincare stick, a concealer stick or a lipstick.

[0036] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin and lips, comprising the step of applying, onto the keratin material, the composition according to the present invention. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a selfstanding solid composition comprising a relatively large amount of water, which can be soft and provide a sufficient deposit and a comfortable feeling such as melting feeling during application and soft touch after application.

[0037] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is a composition, comprising:

[0038] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0039] (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

[0040] (a-2) at least two waxes, and

[0041] (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;

[0042] and

[0043] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0044] (b-1) water,

[0045] wherein

[0046] the amount of the (b-1) water in the composition is more than 25% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention can be solid and self-standing. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a stick. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is suitable for, for example, cosmetics in the form of a stick, such as a skincare stick, a concealer stick and a lipstick.

[0048] The composition according to the present invention can be stable such that the composition can maintain its solid and self-standing properties, and therefore the composition according to the present invention can maintain, for example, its stick shape for a long period of time. The composition according to the present invention can be soft. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a sufficient deposit on a keratin material such as skin and lips.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention can also provide a comfortable feeling during use and / or after use. For example, it can provide a melting feeling during application and soft touch after application.

[0050] In summary, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a solid and self-standing stick, while being soft and providing a sufficient deposit and a comfortable feeling such as melting feeling and soft touch.

[0051] Without being bound by theory, a combination of the (a-2) at least two waxes is expected to form a solid wax network, which would contribute to stabilize the composition according to the present invention, before being applied, such that the composition maintains to be solid and self-standing. This combination would also contribute to softness, sufficient deposit, and comfortable feeling such as melting feeling and soft touch, provided by the composition according to the present invention.

[0052] Again, without being bound by theory, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is expected to contribute to stabilize the composition according to the present invention and enhance the processability thereof after being re-melted under heating, such that the composition is fluidic which is feasible to be moulded into various self-standing solid shapes. In addition, the combination of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil and the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is expected to enhance melting sensation, as well as fresh feeling in some cases, upon application.

[0053] Hereafter, the composition, as well as the process, according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.

[0054] [Composition]

[0055] The composition according to the present invention is a composition, comprising:

[0056] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0057] (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

[0058] (a-2) at least two waxes, and

[0059] (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;

[0060] and

[0061] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0062] (b-1) water,

[0063] wherein

[0064] the amount of the (b-1) water in the composition is more than 25% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] {Fatty Phase)

[0066] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of the (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in the (a) fatty phase. The (b) aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the (a) fatty phase is a continuous phase. Here, this form may be referred to as “W / O type”.

[0067] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 25% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 25% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention comprises

[0071] (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

[0072] (a-2) at least two waxes, and

[0073] (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0074] (Hydrocarbon Oil) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil. A single type of hydrocarbon oil may be used, or two or more different types of hydrocarbon oils may be used in combination.

[0075] The (a-1) hydrocarbon oil can be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0076] The term “hydrocarbon” here means organic compounds composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and devoid of heteroatoms, such as N, O, Si and P.

[0077] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa). As the oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0078] The (a-1) hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from:

[0079] linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, hemisqualane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0080] As preferable examples of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons, preferably alkanes, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0081] It is preferable that the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil be selected from alkanes, preferably linear alkanes

[0082] The amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] The amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Two Waxes)

[0085] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2) at least two waxes. In other words, the composition according to the present invention comprises two or more waxes. The (a-2) at least two waxes can be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0086] The term “wax” here means a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), except for jojoba oil, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably 40°C, and more preferably 50°C, which may be up to 100°C.

[0087] It is preferable that the (a-2) at least two waxes have a different melting point.

[0088] The melting point of wax here means a temperature at which the entire wax is melted.

[0089] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point can be measured, for example, in accordance with ASTM D127.

[0090] Each of the (a-2) at least two waxes may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 55°C, preferably greater than or equal to 60°C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 65°C.

[0091] Each of the (a-2) at least two waxes may have a melting point of up to 72°C, preferably 71 °C, and more preferably 70°C.

[0092] Each of the (a-2) at least two waxes may have a melting point of from 55°C to less than 72°C, preferably from 60°C to 71 °C, and more preferably from 65°C to 70°C.

[0093] It is preferable that the (a-2) at least two waxes have a melting point of 65°C or more.

[0094] In one embodiment, at least one of the (a-2) at least two waxes may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 72°C, preferably greater than or equal to 73°C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 74°C.

[0095] In one embodiment, at least one of the (a-2) two waxes may have a melting point of up to 110°C, preferably 105°C and more preferably 100°C.

[0096] In one embodiment, at least one of the (a-2) two waxes may have a melting point of from 72°C to 110°C, preferably from 73°C to 105°C, and more preferably from 74°C to 100°C. It is preferable that one of the (a-2) at least two waxes has a melting point of 72°C or more and another of the (a-2) at least two waxes has a melting point of less than 72°C.

[0097] Each of the (a-2) at least two waxes may have a hardness at 20°C of greater than 5 MPa, and especially ranging from 5 to 15 MPa.

[0098] The hardness of wax can be determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

[0099] The measuring protocol of the hardness is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10°C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before measuring the hardness or the tack.

[0100] The texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.1 mm / s, and then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

[0101] The hardness value is the maximum compression force measured divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

[0102] The (a-2) at least two waxes may be selected from polar waxes, non-polar waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax for which the solubility parameter δa at 25°C is anything other than 0 (J / cm³)½.

[0104] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "non-polar” wax means a wax for which the solubility parameter δa at 25°C as defined below is equal to 0 (J / cm³)½.

[0105] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: " The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0106] According to this Hansen space:

[0107] δD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

[0108] δP characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0109] δh characterizes the forces of specific interactions (such as acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonds, etc.); and

[0110] δa is determined by the equation: δa= (δP² + δh²)½.

[0111] The parameters δP, δh, δD and δa are expressed in (J / cm³)½.

[0112] Polar Wax:

[0113] The polar wax may be of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

[0114] It is preferable that the polar wax have a chemical structure formed essentially from, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0115] The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes. The term "hydrocarbon-based wax" here means a wax formed essentially from, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. The term "fluoro wax" means a wax comprising at least one fluorine atom, especially comprising at least one perfluoro groups. The term "silicone wax" means a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax.

[0117] As a polar hydrocarbon-based wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred.

[0118] The expression "ester wax" is understood according to the present invention to mean a wax comprising at least one ester functional group.

[0119] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, i.e., comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0120] The following may especially be used as ester wax:

[0121] - ester waxes such as those chosen from:

[0122] i) Waxes of the formula R1COOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and the melting point of which varies from 25°C to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as an ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® or Kester Wax K 82 H by the company Koster Keunen.

[0123] Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: Glycol Montanate) sold by the company Clariant. ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3and R5are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0124] iii) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated castor oil.

[0125] iv) Mention may also be made of animal waxes such as lanolin wax, lanolin derivative wax and bees wax.

[0126] v) Mention may also be made of plant waxes such as candelilla wax, Japan wax, orange wax, coconut wax, olive wax, coca butter, sunflower wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, and laurel wax. According to a preferred embodiment, one of the (a-2) at least two waxes is sunflower seed wax, for example, sold under the name E00167 Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, and ABWAX® Revowax by Roelmi HPC.

[0127] According to another preferable embodiment, one of the (a-2) at least two waxes is jojoba esters.

[0128] Jojoba esters may be represented by formula (I):

[0129] R’-COO-CH2R1(I)

[0130] wherein R¹ comprises CH₃(CH₂)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0131] The jojoba esters (wax) can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba oil of the following formula (II):

[0132] CH₃-(CH₂)₇-CH=CH-CH₂-(CH₂)x-C(=O)-O-CH₂-(CH₂)y-CH=CH-(CH₂)₇-CH₃ (II) wherein x and y are independently 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0133] Jojoba oil is composed of straight chain mono-unsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The single double bond is located in the middle (n-9 position), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of respective fatty acid or alcohol chain. Thus, from a view point of chemical structure jojoba oil is rather liquid wax, and is composed of esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids of even number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbons. The resulting esters have chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 with a small amount of esters of 36- and 4-carbon atoms being present. The typical composition of jojoba oil is set out below.

[0134] Jojoba Oil

[0135] (X, Y) Chain Length Typical % (area by GC) (6,6) 36 1 (6,8)(8,6) 38 8 (6,10)(8,8)(10,6) 40 39 (10,8)(8,10) 42 38 (10,10) 44 13

[0136]

[0137] (12,10)(10,12) 46 1 Jojoba oil can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0138] In addition, jojoba esters may be obtained by the ester exchange of jojoba oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0139] Jojoba esters are commercially available, for example, from Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc., as Jojoba Esters 70.

[0140] Hydrogenated jojoba wax is also commercially available, for example, from Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc., as Jojoba Wax Flakes.

[0141] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include, for example, the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0142] The polar wax may be a silicone wax, for instance siliconized beeswax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is devoid of any silicone wax.

[0143] As polar waxes for the (a-2) at least two waxes, mention may be made of ester waxes, preferably ester waxes derived from plants, and more preferably sunflower seed wax, jojoba esters, hydrogenated jojoba wax, and a mixture thereof.

[0144] Non-Polar Wax:

[0145] The non-polar wax may be of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

[0146] The non-polar wax may be, in particular, selected from hydrocarbon waxes composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and devoid of heteroatoms, such as N, O, Si and P.

[0147] As examples of the non-polar wax, mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance polyolefin waxes, such as polyethylene wax and polypropylene wax, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic wax with a higher melting point, and ozokerite.

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyethylene wax. Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell, and PEFORMALENE™ Polyethylenes sold by NuCera Solutions.

[0149] The polyethylene wax may be in the form of a powder. As examples of such a powdery wax, mention may be made polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.

[0150] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one microcrystalline wax having a high melting point. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn.

[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one synthetic wax. The synthetic wax may be obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process. Thus, the synthetic wax may be a Fischer-Tropsch wax. As example of synthetic wax, mention may be made of CireWax 90 by the company DKSH Japan.

[0152] As ozokerite, mention may be made of that sold under the name Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P.

[0153] As non-polar wax for the (a-2) at least two waxes, mention may be made of synthetic waxes, preferably hydrocarbon waxes, more preferably polyolefin wax, and even more preferably polyethylene wax.

[0154] The amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] The amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] The amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. If the composition according to the present invention includes (a-2) two waxes, the weight ratio of the amount of one of the (a-2) two waxes / the amount of the other of the (a-2) two waxes in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and more preferably 2 or more.

[0157] If the composition according to the present invention includes (a-2) two waxes, the weight ratio of the amount of one of the (a-2) two waxes / the amount of the other of the (a-2) two waxes in the composition according to the present invention may be 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, and more preferably 3 or less.

[0158] If the composition according to the present invention includes (a-2) two waxes, the weight ratio of the amount of one of the (a-2) two waxes / the amount of the other of the (a-2) two waxes in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4, and more preferably from 2 to 3.

[0159] (Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)

[0160] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester. A single type of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, or two or more different types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

[0161] The (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.

[0162] The (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less, and more preferably 6 or less.

[0163] The (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 3 or more.

[0164] The (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7, more preferably from 3 to 6.

[0165] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated with the formula HLB=20*(1−S / A), where S is the saponification number of the ester and A is the neutralization number of the fatty acid.

[0166] If two or more (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Polyglyceryl Non-Polymeric Fatty Acid Ester:

[0167] In one embodiment, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from (a-3-1) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii) at least one non-polymeric fatty acid.

[0168] The (i) polyglycerol may be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0169]

[0170] in which “n” denotes the degree of condensation, and may range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, the (i) polyglycerol contains 3 or 4 glycerol units.

[0171] It is preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 10 or less glycerol units, preferably 8 or less glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or less glycerol units. It is in particular preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 3 or 4 glycerol units. The (ii) non-polymeric fatty acid here means fatty acid which is not polymerized such as dimerized.

[0172] The fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may include 10 or more carbon atoms, preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 14 or more carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and may include 26 or less carbon atoms, preferably 24 or less carbon atoms, more preferably 22 or less carbon atoms, and even more preferably 20 or less carbon atoms.

[0173] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

[0174] The (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from mono, di, tri and more esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s).

[0175] The (a-3) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 4.7), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 5.5), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 oleate (HLB 6.0), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG4 distearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG 10 tristearate (HLB: 8), PG 10 triisostearate (HLB: 8) and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Polyglyceryl Polymeric Fatty Acid Ester:

[0177] In one embodiment, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from (a-3-2) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0178] The (i) polyglycerol may be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0179]

[0180] in which “n” denotes the degree of condensation, and may range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, the “n” denotes 5.

[0181] It is preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 10 or less glycerol units, preferably 8 or less glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or less glycerol units. It is in particular preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 3 to 6 glycerol units. The (iii) polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids is a polymer of the hydroxyacids.

[0182] In this embodiment, the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer may be a polycondensate of the fatty acids which can be formed by the reaction of the carboxylic group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid and the hydroxyl group and the carboxylic acid of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids. In other words, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids.

[0183] When the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polymer, the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0184] The hydroxyacid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated C10-C26, preferably C12-C24, more preferably C14-C22 and even more preferably C16-C20, fatty acids having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0185] Ricinoleic acid is an example of hydroxy acids, in particular unsaturated hydroxyacids, and has a carboxylic group and a hydroxy l group. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid may be formed by the polycondensation of ricinoleic acids, which results in polyricinoleate. Thus, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR), i.e., a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of polyricinoleate.

[0186] The (a-3) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 polyricinoleate (HLB: 4.0), PG4 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.5), PG5 polyricinoleate (HLB: 2 or less), PG6 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.3), and mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from (a-3-3) esters of:

[0187] (i) at least one polyglycerol;

[0188] and

[0189] (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids,

[0190] (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and

[0191] (v) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.

[0192] The (i) polyglycerols may be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0193]

[0194] OH OH

[0195] in which “n” denotes the degree of condensation, and may range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, the “n” denotes 3.

[0196] It is preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 10 or less glycerol units, preferably 8 or less glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or less glycerol units. It is in particular preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 3 or 4 glycerol units. The (iii) polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids is a polymer of the hydroxyacids.

[0197] In this embodiment, the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer may be a polycondensate of the fatty acids which can be formed by the reaction of the carboxylic group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid and the hydroxyl group and the carboxylic acid of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids. In other words, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids.

[0198] When the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polymer, the fatty acid moiety of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0199] The hydroxyacid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated C10-C26, preferably C12-C24, more preferably C14-C22 and even more preferably C16-C20, fatty acids having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0200] According to one embodiment, the (iii) polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids is a polymer of the hydroxyacids may be polyhydroxy stearic acid such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid). According to one embodiment, the (iv) linear or branched, aliphatic (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) monocarboxylic acid may contain from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and arachidic acid, in particular stearic acid or isostearic (C18) acid.

[0201] According to one embodiment, the (v) linear or branched, aliphatic (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) dicarboxylic acid may contain from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid and dodecanedioic acid, in particular sebacic (C10) acid.

[0202] According to one preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-3) esters may be obtained by esterification of:

[0203] (i’) polyglycerols with from 2 to 10, preferably from 3 to 8, and more preferably from 4 to 6 units of glycerol;

[0204] and

[0205] (iii’) polyhydroxystearic acids,

[0206] (iv’) linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and

[0207] (v’) linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0208] Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20 % and 40 %, preferably between 40 % and 70 %.

[0209] According to more preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-2) esters may be obtained by esterification of:

[0210] (i”) polyglycerol with 4 glycerol units;

[0211] and

[0212] (iii”) poly(12-hydroxystearic acid),

[0213] (iv”) isostearic acid, and

[0214] (v”) sebacic acid.

[0215] Such poly (12-hydroxy stearic acid) esters of poly glycerol are described in application US 2005 / 0031580.

[0216] According to even more preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-3) ester may be a compound represented by the following chemical formula:

[0217]

[0218] wherein

[0219] PHS denotes a polyhydroxystearic acid residue, and

[0220] IS denotes an isostearic acid residue.

[0221] The above compound may be named as polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate. Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate is sold, for example, under the name Isolan GPS® by the company Evonik.

[0222] In another embodiment, the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from (a-3-4) esters of:

[0223] (i) at least one polyglycerol;

[0224] and

[0225] (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and

[0226] (vi) at least one fatty diacid dimer.

[0227] The term "polyglycerols" is intended to mean compounds of formula:

[0228]

[0229] in which “n” denotes the degree of condensation, and ranges from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 2 to 5. Even more preferably, the (i) poly glycerol contains 3 or 4 glycerol units.

[0230] It is preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 10 or less glycerol units, preferably 8 or less glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or less glycerol units. It is in particular preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 3 or 4 glycerol units. According to one embodiment, the (iv) linear or branched, aliphatic (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) monocarboxylic acid may contain from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and arachidic acid, in particular stearic acid or isostearic (C18) acid.

[0231] The (vi) fatty diacid dimers, or diacid dimers, may be conventionally obtained by polymerization reaction, for example by intermolecular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated fatty acid. The (vi) fatty diacid dimers may be derived for example from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, for example of C8to C34, or for example of C12to C22, in particular of C16to C20, and for example of C18.

[0232] According to one embodiment, the (vi) fatty diacid dimer has two carboxylic acid moieties. As examples of these unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made for example of monounsaturated fatty acids such as undecenoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid or brassidic acid, and nervonic acid; di-unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, and docosadienoic acid; tri-unsaturated fatty acids such as linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead acid, eicosatrienoic acid; tetra-unsaturated fatty acids such as stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, and adrenic acid; penta-unsaturated fatty acids such as bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid; hexa-unsaturated fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0233] According to one embodiment, the diacid dimer may be derived from the dimerization of mono-unsaturated fatty acid such as oleic acid and / or di-saturated fatty acid such as linoleic acid. According to a preferred embodiment, the diacid dimer may be derived from the dimerization of linoleic acids.

[0234] The diacid dimer may be hydrogenated if the diacid dimer includes at least one unsaturation. In other words, the diacid dimer may be in the hydrogenated form thereof. The diacid dimer may be partially or totally hydrogenated, and may correspond, for example, to the totally hydrogenated or saturated form, which is more stable towards oxidation.

[0235] According to one embodiment, the diacid dimer may be a commercial product consisting of a dicarboxylic acid containing about 36 carbon atoms. This product may also contain a trimeric acid and a monomeric acid, in proportions that depend on the degree of purity of the product. Products whose diacid dimer content may be greater than 70% and others whose diacid dimer content has been adjusted to 90% or more are conventionally found commercially.

[0236] Diacid dimers, and for example dilinoleic diacids whose stability towards oxidation has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction, may also be found commercially.

[0237] In the present invention, any diacid dimer that is currently commercially available may be used.

[0238] According to one preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-4) esters may be obtained by esterification of:

[0239] (i’) polyglycerols with from 2 to 10, preferably from 3 to 8, and more preferably from 3 to 6 units of glycerol;

[0240] and

[0241] (iv’) linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and

[0242] (vi’) fatty diacid dimers of mono-unsaturated fatty acid and / or di-saturated fatty acid. Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20 % and 40 %, preferably between 40 % and 70 %.

[0243] According to more preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-3) esters may be obtained by esterification of:

[0244] (i”) polyglycerol with from 3 glycerol units;

[0245] and

[0246] (iv”) isostearic acid, and

[0247] (vi”) fatty diacid dimer of linoleic acids.

[0248] The above compound may be named as diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate. Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate is sold, for example, under the name Isolan PDI® by the company Evonik.

[0249] It is preferable that the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from

[0250] (1) esters of (i) at least one poly glycerol, and of (ii) at least one non-polymeric fatty acid;

[0251] (2) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids;

[0252] (3) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (v) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid;

[0253] (4) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (vi) at least one fatty diacid dimer; and

[0254] (5) mixtures thereof.

[0255] As examples of the mixture of (5), mention may be made of Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (and) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, which is marketed under the name of Isolan® 17MB by Evonik.

[0256] The amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] The amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] The amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0259] {Aqueous Phase}

[0260] The aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention comprises, at least, (b-1) water. The amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the composition may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] The amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the composition may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] The amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the composition may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] (Water)

[0264] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-1) water.

[0265] The (b-1) water can be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0266] The amount of the (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention is more than 25% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0267] The amount of the (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 45% by weight, and more preferably less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] The amount of the (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 25% and less than 50% by weight, preferably more than 30% and less than 45% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% and less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0269] (Polyol)

[0270] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b-2) at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

[0271] The (b-2) polyol can be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0272] The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group. The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at ambient temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa).

[0273] The polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0274] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0275] The polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, C6-C24 polyethyleneglycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5 -pentanediol, and a mixture thereof.

[0276] It is preferable that the (b-2) polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and a mixture thereof.

[0277] It is more preferable that the (b-2) polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butyleneglycol, and a mixture thereof.

[0278] The amount of the (b-2) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably from 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0279] The amount of the (b-3) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% by weight or less, preferably from 25% by weight or less, and more preferably from 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0280] The amount of the (b-3) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] (Powder)

[0282] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one powder. A single type of powder may be used, or two or more different types of powders may be used in combination.

[0283] The (d) powder may be present in the (a) fatty phase or the (b) aqueous phase, depending on the nature of the (d) powder.

[0284] According to the present invention, the (d) powder is insoluble in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium.

[0285] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "insoluble" powder means a powder with a solubility in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder, and most preferably with no solubility. The (d) powder is in the form of a particle or particles.

[0286] The diameter of the (d) powder is not limited. The average particle size of the (d) powder is preferably 10 nm or more, more preferably 50 nm or more, and even more preferably 100 nm or more, and is preferably 1000 μm or less, more preferably 500 μm or less, and even more preferably 300 μm or less. Thus, the (d) powder may have an average particle size of from 10 nm to 1000 μm, preferably from 50 nm to 500 μm, and more preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm. The average particle size may be number-average particle size which can be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.

[0287] The (d) powder is preferably in the form of a solid.

[0288] The (d) powder may be selected from pigments, fillers, UV filters, and mixtures thereof. The amount of the (d) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0289] The amount of the (d) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0290] The amount of the (d) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0291] (Additional Optional Ingredients)

[0292] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, oils (preferably polar oils, and more preferably ester oils) other than the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil, fillers, cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants other than the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, UV filters, chelating agents, preservatives, or the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0293] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise a limited amount of silicone such as less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be more preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise no silicone.

[0295] (Embodiments)

[0296] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0297] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0298] (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

[0299] (a-2) at least two waxes, and

[0300] (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;

[0301] and

[0302] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0303] (b-1) water,

[0304] wherein

[0305] the amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition is from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0306] the amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition is from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0307] the amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0308] the amount of (b-1) water in the composition is more than 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0309] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0310] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0311] (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil selected from alkanes,

[0312] (a-2) at least two waxes having a melting point of 65°C or more, and

[0313] (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester selected from

[0314] (1) esters of (i) at least one poly glycerol, and of (ii) at least one non-polymeric fatty acid;

[0315] (2) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one poly condensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids;

[0316] (3) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (v) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid;

[0317] (4) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (vi) at least one fatty diacid dimer; and

[0318] (5) mixtures thereof;

[0319] and

[0320] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0321] (b-1) water,

[0322] wherein

[0323] the amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition is from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0324] the amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition is from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0325] the amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0326] the amount of the (b-1) water in the composition is more than 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0328] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0329] (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil selected from linear alkanes such as C15-C19 alkane,

[0330] (a-2) at least two waxes having a different melting point of 65°C or more, and (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester selected from

[0331] polyglyceryl-3 oleate,

[0332] polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate,

[0333] polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, and

[0334] a mixture thereof;

[0335] and

[0336] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0337] (b-1) water,

[0338] wherein

[0339] the amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition is from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0340] the amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition is from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0341] the amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0342] the amount of (b-1) water in the composition is more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0343] (Preparation)

[0344] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the abovedescribed essential and optional ingredients in a conventional manner.

[0345] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0346] (Form)

[0347] The composition according to the present invention is of the W / O type.

[0348] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of the (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in the (a) fatty phase. The (b) aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the (a) fatty phase is a continuous phase.

[0349] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W / O emulsion, in particular if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one emulsifier such as a surfactant.

[0350] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of a water-in-wax / oil type composition, more preferably a water-in-wax / oil type emulsion.

[0351] It is preferable for the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a solid. The term “solid” here means a state which is not flowable under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa) and at room temperature (25°C). A solid composition has high consistency and can maintain its form during storage. Contrary to a “fluid” composition, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight. For example, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight at room temperature under atmospheric pressure after 1 hour.

[0352] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a hardness of less than 10 g / mm, preferably less than 9 g / mm, and more preferably less than 8 g / mm.

[0353] The hardness of a composition can be assessed using the "cheese wire" method. This method involves cutting the composition in the form of an 8 mm diameter stick with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16-0.19 cm / s at 20°C and measuring its hardness, using a force measurement machine such as Chatillon™ from Ametek. The hardness from this method can be expressed in grams per mm as the maximum shear force required to cut the stick under the above conditions.

[0354] [Cosmetic Use and Process]

[0355] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a skincare or makeup composition, and more preferably a skincare stick, a concealer stick or a lipstick.

[0356] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments, preferably care or makeup, of a keratin material such as the skin and the surface of a mucous membrane, e.g., the lips.

[0357] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin and lips, comprising: applying onto the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.

[0358] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for caring or making up a keratin material such as the skin and the surface of a mucous membrane (e.g., on the lips), comprising the step of applying, onto the keratin material, the composition according to the present invention.

[0359] The composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects such as coloring (e.g., making up) and / or caring (e.g., lightening, antiaging, and hydrating) a keratin material such as skin and lips.

[0360] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a-2) at least two waxes in a composition, comprising:

[0361] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0362] (a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil, and

[0363] (a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;

[0364] and

[0365] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0366] (b-1) water,

[0367] wherein

[0368] the amount of the (b-1) water in the composition is more than 25% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0369] in order to make the composition in the form of a solid stick, while making the composition soft and provide a sufficient deposit and a comfortable feeling such as melting feeling during application and soft touch after application.

[0370] The above explanations regarding the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil, the (a-2) at least two waxes, and the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, as well as the (b-1) water, for the composition according to the present invention can also apply to those in the above use.

[0371] EXAMPLES

[0372] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.

[0373] Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-7

[0374] [Preparations]

[0375] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-7 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1-2.

[0376] Specifically, the ingredients of the phase A in Tables 1-2 were heated to 85-90°C to ensure complete melting, mixed and cooled to 80°C. The ingredients of the phase B in Tables 1-2 were heated to 75-80°C and mixed to ensure complete dissolution. The mixture of the ingredients of the phase B was added to the mixture of the ingredients of the phase A slowly, and homogenized at 7,000 rpm for 5 minutes at 75-80°C to yield the compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-7 in the form of a W / O emulsion.

[0377] The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Tables 1-2 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials. Table I

[0378] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex 5 Cl 5-19 Alkane 16.5 16.5 16.5 15.5 25.5 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 10 10 10 10 Jojoba Esters (1) 7 7 - Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (2) - - 7 7.7 7.7 A Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (3) 3 3.3 3.3 Polyethylene Wax (4) 3 - 3 - - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (5) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

[0379] 3 3 3 3 3 (and) Polyglyceryl -3 Oleate (and) Di isostearoyl PolyglyceryI-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (6)

[0380] Water 43.6 43.6 43.6 43.6 43.6 Glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 Butylene Glycol 5 5 5 5 5 B Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Sodium Chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Formation of Self-Standing Stick Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Hardness (g / mm) 4.6 4.8 5.7 7.1 7.0

[0381] Very' Very Very Very Very Soft Touch

[0382] good good good good good Very VenrVery Very Very Melting Feeling

[0383] good good good good good Very Very' Very' Appropriate Deposit Good Good

[0384]

[0385] good good good Table 2

[0386] Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp, Comp. Comp. Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex.4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Cl 5-19 Alkane 15.5 15.5 15.5 15.5 15.5 25 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 10 10 10 10 25.5 10 15 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (2) - 11 - - 7.7 7.7 10 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (3) - 11 - 3.3 3.3 5 Polyethylene Wax (4) - « 11 - - A Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (5) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate

[0387] (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyglyceryl-3

[0388] 3 3 3 3 3 * Oleate (and) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 3 (6)

[0389] PEG-10 Dimethicone - - 3.5 - Water 54.6 43.6 43.6 43.6 43.6 43.6 25.1 Glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Butylene Glycol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 B Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Sodium Chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Formation of Self-Standing Stick No No Yes Yes No NA Yes Hardness (g / mm) NA NA 10.8 11.9 NA NA 10.1 Soft Touch NA NA Poor Poor NA NA Poor Melting Feeling NA NA Poor Poor NA NA Poor

[0390]

[0391] Appropriate Deposit NA NA Poor Poor NA NA Poor (1) JOJOBA ESTERS-70 sold by Vantage Specialty Chemicals

[0392] (2) JOJOBA WAX FLAKES sold by Vantage Specialty Chemicals

[0393] (3) E00167 Sunflower Wax sold by Koster Keunen

[0394] (4) PEFORMALENE™ Polyethylenes sold by NuCera Solutions

[0395] (5) SY GLYSTER CRS-75 sold by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo

[0396] (6) ISOLAN 17 MB sold by Evonik NA: Not Available

[0397] [Evaluations]

[0398] The compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-4, 6 and 7 were evaluated as follows.

[0399] The composition according to Comparative Example 5 caused phase separation after the preparation thereof, and therefore, the composition according to Comparative Example 5 could not be evaluated.

[0400] (Formation of Self-Standing Stick)

[0401] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 -5 and Comparative Examples 1 -4, 6 and 7 was heated to 75°C. Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-4 and 7 was poured into the cavity of a cylinder mold for a stick which has been heated to 45°C, and cooled to -15 to -20°C for 20 minutes. The composition according to Comparative Example 6 could not be poured into the cavity of a mold for a stick due to a very high viscosity of the composition.

[0402] Then, the mold was heated to a room temperature (25°C), and each of the compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-4 and 7 was demolded or discharged from the cavity of the mold. Then, the formation of a self-standing stick form was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

[0403] Yes: A self-standing stick was formed.

[0404] No: A self-standing stick was not formed.

[0405] The results are shown in the “Formation of Self-Standing Stick” row in Tables 1-2.

[0406] (Hardness)

[0407] The hardness of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 -5 and Comparative Examples 3, 4 and 7 was measured at 20°C using a tester (Chatillon™ DFGHS2 by Ametek) wherein the composition was in the form of a cylinder with a diameter of 8 mm which was maintained at 20°C for more than 1 day before being cut. The hardness was determined as the maximum shear force (g) per mm when vertically cutting the composition at 1 cm from the edge of the cylinder with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16-0.19 cm / s at 20°C.

[0408] The results are shown in the “Hardness” row in Tables 1-2.

[0409] (Soft Touch / Melting Feeling / Deposit) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 3, 4 and 7 was applied onto the skin of 4 sensory panelists. The degrees of soft touch after application, melting feeling during application, and appropriate amount of deposit after application were evaluated by scoring with 1 to 5. The score was averaged and categorized in accordance with the following criteria:

[0410] Very Good: from 4 to 5

[0411] Good: from 3 to less than 4

[0412] Poor: from 2 to less than 3

[0413] Very Poor: from 1 to less than 2

[0414] The results are shown in the “Soft Touch”, “Melting Feeling” and “Appropriate Deposit” rows in Tables 1-2.

[0415] (Summary)

[0416] The compositions according to Examples 1-5, which correspond to the present invention, were able to form a self-standing solid stick, and were soft to provide a sufficient deposit and comfortable feeling such as melting feeling and soft touch.

[0417] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which included no wax, was in the form of a liquid (at 25°C), and therefore, it was not in the form of a self-standing solid stick. The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which included only one wax, was in the form of a cream (at 25°C), and therefore, it was not in the form of a self-standing solid stick.

[0418] The composition according to Comparative Example 5, which included no hydrocarbon oil, was in the form of a solid with a phase separation, and therefore, it was not a stable composition for stick preparation.

[0419] The composition according to Comparative Example 6, which included no polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, could not be poured into the cavity of a mold for a stick due to a very high viscosity of the composition.

[0420] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1, 2, 5 and 6 could not form a selfstanding solid stick.

[0421] The compositions according to Comparative Example 3 (including only one wax), Comparative Example 4 (including only one wax) and Comparative Example 7 (including insufficient amount of water) were able to form a self-sanding solid stick. However, they were not able to provide an appropriate sensorial texture with sufficient deposit and comfortable feeling such as melting feeling and soft touch.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A solid composition, comprising:(a) a continuous fatty phase comprising(a-1) at least one hydrocarbon oil,(a-2) at least two waxes, and(a-3) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;and(b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising(b-1) water,whereinthe amount of the (b-1) water in the composition is more than 25% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and more preferably more than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil is selected from alkanes, preferably linear alkanes.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a-1) hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition is from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a-2) at least two waxes have a melting point of 65°C or more.

5. The composition according to Claim 4, wherein the (a-2) at least two waxes have a different melting point.

6. The composition according to Claim 5, wherein at least one of the (a-2) at least two waxes has a melting point of 72°C or more, and another of the (a-2) at least two waxes has a melting point of less than 72°C.

7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (a-2) at least two waxes in the composition is from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has an HLB value of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less and more preferably 6 or less.

9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from:(1) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii) at least one non-polymeric fatty acid;(2) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids;(3) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iii) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iv) at least one linear orbranched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (v) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid;(4) esters of (i) at least one polyglycerol, and of (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (vi) at least one fatty diacid dimer; and(5) mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (a-3) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises (b-2) at least one polyol.

12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one powder.

13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition comprises no silicone or less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2%, and more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a skincare or makeup composition, and more preferably a skincare stick, a concealer stick or a lipstick.

15. A cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of:applying, onto the keratin material, the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.

Images